I did it sometime back few months ago. Working on an updated video but here's the original check valve installation on the radiator for the technical bulletin from GM ruclips.net/video/oL7HGFmzNQQ/видео.html
I haven't looked at the engine yet to see if there is a bleed valve in the system anywhere? I'm an old auto mechanic/ technician who left the car dealership in 2000 & haven't done much since that time. I ruined my back. I've experienced most of these issues on other cars in the past. That's why I asked if this car had a bleeder screw (valve) or not (i hadn't looked yet.) I remember 1995 Buick Regals having problems with cooling issues especially after flushing systems, or replacing water pumps, or heater cores,etc.. I replaced the heater core in one & never got adequate heat! So I bled the system multiple times, still no heat. Finally after the customer bringing the car back for if remember correctly the 3rd time. One of the older guys at the dealership (not even a mechanic) came over & said back in the day we used to have to prime the heater core with Anti-Freeze to purge the air out or the older cars wouldn't heat properly! I was 24 at this time & this guy was 63. So I tried what he said,and it worked i had good heat. I'd never done that or heard of it before. I assumed adding anti freeze after replacing old core would purge the whole system, that jt would push any air out of the system (New core) as it was filled but that wasn't the case. I don't know if it sat higher in the car,etc,etc.. but I've made it a habit from that point forward. I wasted alot of time working on that car. So I can imagine how this car can be a headache!
Followes the video and as I went I was getting improvement (slower heat growth, and air was getting hotter) Temp still keeps crawling after 3 rounds of cycling about coolant 5 times each. Any suggestions on what I'm missing
I don't want to send you down the rabbit hole but do you have the inline purge valves installed? You can try that and that's literally the last thing you can do before I would start looking at the head gasket really. Bad head gasket can cause some weird overheating. Take a peak at the video may be worth the try as this was one of GMs fixes. ruclips.net/video/lTVl_BNFcAY/видео.html Are you loosing coolant?
@@GearHeadzGarageUSA I do not. I will look into those. It is not loosing coolant. Just finished my last session of cycling for the night. Even better heat from the car like normal. Upon driving car goes to 235 (mine keeps around 212 max while driving) once parked it's all cold air. Prior to this issue, I just got done redoing my timing, everything was put back together the proper way. Sorry to bother you with this and thank you for such a quick reply.
Happy to help! With the new information you provided seems you still have air bubbles trapped in the system. Check out that coolant line fix. Its about 20$ for the valves; if your not loosing coolant then im guessing its the air bubbles. ruclips.net/video/lTVl_BNFcAY/видео.html
@@GearHeadzGarageUSA replaced the thermostat today. Same thing way slower climb to operating temp. Did more cycles to no avail. I will try your valve installation.
Doesn't the engine have a bleeder screw,or bolt either in the thermostat housing, or near there like most cars from the early to mid 90's forward? Where you loosen the screw so as coolant is added it pushes the air out if the system. You can leave it open until after the thermostat opens to make sureall the air is out of the system.
unfortunatly it does not, parts bin car and GMs fix was to install bleeder valves inline for the coolant return. The other issue us the heater core sits above everything else, is mounted internal, and is notorious for keeping bubbles. Best way I found was install the check valves, then run compressed air through it in an attempt to purge it. Funny thing is the compressed air and the check valves was GMs idea. The never developed a fix for the LNF
Finally! The right way to purge. Thanks
You have really solved my problem
Glad it worked!
I may have missed it somehow overlooked it even more than once but exactly when did you bring up check valves and put them on?
I did it sometime back few months ago. Working on an updated video but here's the original check valve installation on the radiator for the technical bulletin from GM
ruclips.net/video/oL7HGFmzNQQ/видео.html
@@GearHeadzGarageUSA ah ok thank you!
I haven't looked at the engine yet to see if there is a bleed valve in the system anywhere? I'm an old auto mechanic/ technician who left the car dealership in 2000 & haven't done much since that time. I ruined my back. I've experienced most of these issues on other cars in the past. That's why I asked if this car had a bleeder screw (valve) or not (i hadn't looked yet.) I remember 1995 Buick Regals having problems with cooling issues especially after flushing systems, or replacing water pumps, or heater cores,etc.. I replaced the heater core in one & never got adequate heat! So I bled the system multiple times, still no heat. Finally after the customer bringing the car back for if remember correctly the 3rd time. One of the older guys at the dealership (not even a mechanic) came over & said back in the day we used to have to prime the heater core with Anti-Freeze to purge the air out or the older cars wouldn't heat properly! I was 24 at this time & this guy was 63. So I tried what he said,and it worked i had good heat. I'd never done that or heard of it before. I assumed adding anti freeze after replacing old core would purge the whole system, that jt would push any air out of the system (New core) as it was filled but that wasn't the case. I don't know if it sat higher in the car,etc,etc.. but I've made it a habit from that point forward. I wasted alot of time working on that car. So I can imagine how this car can be a headache!
Followes the video and as I went I was getting improvement (slower heat growth, and air was getting hotter)
Temp still keeps crawling after 3 rounds of cycling about coolant 5 times each. Any suggestions on what I'm missing
I don't want to send you down the rabbit hole but do you have the inline purge valves installed?
You can try that and that's literally the last thing you can do before I would start looking at the head gasket really. Bad head gasket can cause some weird overheating.
Take a peak at the video may be worth the try as this was one of GMs fixes. ruclips.net/video/lTVl_BNFcAY/видео.html
Are you loosing coolant?
@@GearHeadzGarageUSA I do not. I will look into those. It is not loosing coolant. Just finished my last session of cycling for the night. Even better heat from the car like normal. Upon driving car goes to 235 (mine keeps around 212 max while driving) once parked it's all cold air.
Prior to this issue, I just got done redoing my timing, everything was put back together the proper way.
Sorry to bother you with this and thank you for such a quick reply.
Happy to help! With the new information you provided seems you still have air bubbles trapped in the system. Check out that coolant line fix. Its about 20$ for the valves; if your not loosing coolant then im guessing its the air bubbles. ruclips.net/video/lTVl_BNFcAY/видео.html
@@GearHeadzGarageUSA replaced the thermostat today. Same thing way slower climb to operating temp. Did more cycles to no avail. I will try your valve installation.
Is the the GXP or base?
Own several
Doesn't the engine have a bleeder screw,or bolt either in the thermostat housing, or near there like most cars from the early to mid 90's forward? Where you loosen the screw so as coolant is added it pushes the air out if the system. You can leave it open until after the thermostat opens to make sureall the air is out of the system.
unfortunatly it does not, parts bin car and GMs fix was to install bleeder valves inline for the coolant return. The other issue us the heater core sits above everything else, is mounted internal, and is notorious for keeping bubbles. Best way I found was install the check valves, then run compressed air through it in an attempt to purge it. Funny thing is the compressed air and the check valves was GMs idea. The never developed a fix for the LNF