Just some friendly suggestions and this is totally in MY opinion... 1) To the watchers of this video: I recommend everybody sets Playback Speed to at least 1.5 2) To the creater(s) of this video: I recommend when you are using an impact tool and it's making noise, you consider maybe not speaking during all that sound since you're not as audible and the frequencies of that impact sound cuts right through your voice, thus making it hard to understand what you're saying
How is it now. One thing concerning, it's been repeated not use a magnet for cleaning solenoid screens, to dip in fresh fluid over and over to clean. If you're trans is still good, makes one wonder about that warning. How did you reattach connector to new sensor?
Hi thank you for sharing this video. I was wondering if you can tell me where the temperature sensor is located on the transmission. i got the same transmission. i got p2740 error code but no check engine light and the transmission shifts fine too but want to address it before anything catastrophic happens. Any information of the location of the sensor is greatly appreciated!
Hi friend, thank you for your video. I have a similar problem meaning after the diagnostic on the mb, I have this code 2734; The internal electrical check of component Y3/8y3(K2 clutch control solenoid valve VGS) has failed. How can you advise in this kind of situation. Best regards,
Can't advise anything but u can try to replace the sensors that worked for me. I also believe you can buy the whole conductor plate ( aftermarket) for way cheaper than years ago.
Hello, great video. I have a problem with my gearbox 724003, sometimes it throws neutral - message without changing gear while learning to shift with diagnostics, the transmission stopped shifting completely - no EEPROM backup in diag it has 0 value y3/12s6 pressure distributor position sensor - do you know where it is located in ehs? or is it necessary to replace the complete ehs? You will help me a lot, I will be very grateful for any advice 🙏
@@richardvalach3353 I don't think you need the whole valve body your problem sounds more like the conductor plate only. Those days they are cheap but you will need to code them or get it coded to the VIN as far I remember.
Sort of difficult to say this online but you are welcome to post them here and Monday I go and check and will respond maybe I can give you an idea what's going on
2725 2734 2810 2759 Vehicle Information DTC Description The Internal Electrical Check Of Component Y3/8y6(B2 Brake Control Solenoid valve(VGS)) Has Failed. The Internal Electrical Check Of Component Y3/8y3(K2 Clutch Control Solenoid valve(VGS)) Has Failed. The Internal Electrical Check Of Component Y3/8y1(Working Pressure Control Solenoid valve(VGS)) Has Failed. The Internal Electrical Check Of Component Y3/8y8(Torque Converter Lockup Clutch Control Solenoid valve(VGS)) Or Check Of Component Y3/8y9(Start-up Clutch Control Solenoid Valve) Has Failed. State Current and stored
Not that I remember the only time you need programming is when you replace the conductor plate because of immobilizer. You might like to do an adaptation but I don't think that even this is needed. Of course you need a scan tool to erase remaining codes the battery disconnect might not work.
@@G-MansWorld I am replacing the conductor plate just like in your video. So I can just replace the plate and then drive to a shop to erace the codes and i will be good?
@markjones8632 I did not replace the conductor plate I only replaced a sensor on the conductor plate that's why no programming is required if you replace the whole board than you need programming car won't start
We have Autel maxi in the shop but you don't need anything super fancy a Bluetooth dongle and some android software for MB should be ok to get codes out of the TCM or ECU good luck 🤞
This is a very informative video and provides enough visual facts for the brave DIY mechanic to do a repair. Well done. I'm going to replace sensor Y3/8n1 when the replacement one arrives in the mail. When you re-assembled the unit, what torque settings did you use to tighten: a) the 7 control unit bolts to valve body, and b) the 4 bolts securing the solenoids? It would be a great help to me if you could let me know, as I can't find that information anywhere.
I have a 2007 mercedes c230 with a 0717 code. Turbine/ input speed sensor no signal. The car is in limp mode it stays in 2nd gear and also thunks into reverse and drive. I plan on replacing the y3/8n1 and y3/8n2. Will this solve my issue?
I do not know it's also a long time ago when I did this fix. Sorry can't help you out here but range selector solenoid should be possible to fix. On the other hand those conductor plates are not that expensive anymore.
hello friend, have are you? i have a same problem on the mercedes w 211 2,8 cdi 7G tronic.on the 7G tronic (73 32 ) damage Y3/8N2 spead sensor and i nead to change.I can't find this code and if I install 72 29 the sensor will work? thenk you.
Sorry but I do not offer repair service like this and you always need to keep in mind this will most likely fix your issue but a 100% success nobody can promise you.
I have a 2007 s550 giving me codes p2767 & p0717. The car has a few bumps when shifting if i am flooring the car but not when cruising, sometimes when cruising the car will lose acceleration as if it were going limp and running at about 10% capacity and then it open back up again completely, any thoughts? My mechanic is recommending me to change out the entire valve body
Hello, I made the change of the whole module for my ML 500 W164 with its reprogramming, but now my vehicle does not exceed 4000 RPM at any time, it is like that its limit is that, and it throws an error in an N15 / 7 module which when looking for that module is not used by my Mercedes, could it be a bad programming?
Thanks for sharing! I am geeting codes 0730 /2505 / 2502 My next step is to drop the valve body and plate to look for for debris at the K1 solenoid. I have gears R - D1 - D2 and then nothing when it attempt to shift to 3rd. Per the 722.9 chat it is at this time that the K1 solenoid is to be activated so I am going to look for related issues there. Have you and is it safe to put 12V to the solenoid to confirm actuation?
@@G-MansWorld Thanks. I found this piece of information in a forum but the image of the port layout wasn't accessible. "If you have the valve body out you can air pressure test the K1 by putting air to the hole in the trans case for K1" do you know how I could complete this test or have a picture of the port layout?
I do not I did only focus on this sensor back than I did rebuild some transmissions in the past but it's not what I do for a living I would need to search for this my self sorry
Bro ive changed the sensor but my error still not going and comes back after some time when i start driving the car.Ive change the sensor twice to confirm
Did you ever fix the car? Same happened to me, just replaced the y38n2 sensor and the car drove ok for 70 miles then went back to limp mode and getting same error code.
Hey, after replacing the completw transmission on my 2008 w204 the car hesitate to shift from one gear to another and there is also a jerk if in shifting gear liver from P to D or D to R, any thoughts?
Sorry but I am in TX good luck fixing it if you consider to do this your self you do not need a lift to this jack stands will work fine and in 3 to 4 hours you back on the road. Otherwise try to ask your trusted mechanic I know they are hard to find :)
This is such a fukin horrible repair to do I did this repair on families car a couple years ago (BOTH SENSORS ONE IS EASY ONE IS HARD AS YOU SAY). Knocking out those sensors is no joke. hard to do without damaging the flexible circuit and other stuff. I ended up epoxying the long difficult to remove sensor back in there as I had damaged the plastic on the hard one closest to the computer. The other one beside it was easy to get out as you show. Next time (I hope theres not a next time) I'll have to try you're method. I used a supplied drift/cutter on the short sensor but the long one was super hard to get out. Car was working fine after the repair but I wouldnt feel comfortable charging people to do this I only do it for family.
Volume is so low I can't hear what you're saying, and your camera angle continually has your hand in the way of what you're doing. Not to mention you fail to mention where those speed sensors can be purchased.
I am flocking the dashboard of my Chevy Avalanche ....the first part of the video is done today I did record some more about dashboard removal and the result of first try to flock the front section. The dash is massively cracked and I did decide to get a molded cover to glue over to give it more strength and prevent more crack's after fixing it. After done I think it will have the parts first part is done .....now need to wait for the cover to come in.
Are you serious about this?! He's hammering it! It won't clean it of oil (that's why there isn't even how to solder the sensor back). This tickling of the solenoid with a magnet will certainly not remove the chips, certainly not with this, it is weak. And at the end does he tighten the screws by feel?? Another tinkerer.
Yes that's the only way to get them out and it works just fine as long u support the other side with a socket basic mechanic stuff. I fixed lots of transmissions and rebuild some best part is they did shift fine after installation. The solenoids have screens on them the metal dust if any collects on the screen you won't need a super strong magnet but a neodymium magnet is pretty strong and works well. There is even Mercedes service instructions out there who tell you to do just that. All that matter on the end is if it works for you final result was ok I am happy. You can buy the whole board if you not comfortable with it but imobilizer is in it if I remember right so need programming.
This brute-force approach could damage other components. I found that there are other videos that show a special punch that cuts around the sensor and pulls it out. I suggest you search for those. To the creator: Also look for those videos so that you can level-up your approach. The video is informative but I would never bang on electronics like this. No, I'm not a mechanic, just a tech-savvy bass player with only one W-211.
It's a hole punch it comes in the set and you need to punch quiet heavy no way around it and some versions have a even stronger epoxy ..... So yeah I suggest to you to try it out your self and than come back and give me your opinion on how easy or not easy it actually is to get them out. But today u actually can buy the whole conductor plate for pretty cheap like 200 ish dollars almost not worth the hassle anymore.
I completed the repair of the y38n2 sensor and the car drove ok for about 70 miles and now I am getting the same error on the scanner and the transmission is back in limp mode. I am thinking I need to replace the conductor plate at this point??? It's vgs2 so I can do just the conductor plate. On ebay I can buy one that is ready to pair to the vehicle and preprogrammed to my Vin, but what else do I have to do to make it work with my car?
MATE i TRIED, i REALLY DID (09.56) BUT YOUR CAMERA WORK IS SHIT AND YOUR AUDIO IS EVEN WORSE. SORT IT OUT PLEASE COZ I RECKON THIS COULD HAVE BEEN GOOD.
Thanks for the information I’ve bought 2 Mercedes with the same issue this will help me out big time
Just some friendly suggestions and this is totally in MY opinion...
1) To the watchers of this video: I recommend everybody sets Playback Speed to at least 1.5
2) To the creater(s) of this video: I recommend when you are using an impact tool and it's making noise, you consider maybe not speaking during all that sound since you're not as audible and the frequencies of that impact sound cuts right through your voice, thus making it hard to understand what you're saying
How is it now. One thing concerning, it's been repeated not use a magnet for cleaning solenoid screens, to dip in fresh fluid over and over to clean. If you're trans is still good, makes one wonder about that warning. How did you reattach connector to new sensor?
Hi thank you for sharing this video. I was wondering if you can tell me where the temperature sensor is located on the transmission. i got the same transmission. i got p2740 error code but no check engine light and the transmission shifts fine too but want to address it before anything catastrophic happens. Any information of the location of the sensor is greatly appreciated!
I just got the generic u0101 com failure. Limp mode active. Is it most likely the speed sensors need to be replaced?
I have the same ! We need an answer!
Hi friend, thank you for your video. I have a similar problem meaning after the diagnostic on the mb, I have this code 2734; The internal electrical check of component Y3/8y3(K2 clutch control solenoid valve VGS) has failed. How can you advise in this kind of situation.
Best regards,
Can't advise anything but u can try to replace the sensors that worked for me. I also believe you can buy the whole conductor plate ( aftermarket) for way cheaper than years ago.
@@G-MansWorld thank you
Hello, great video.
I have a problem with my gearbox 724003, sometimes it throws neutral - message without changing gear
while learning to shift with diagnostics, the transmission stopped shifting completely - no EEPROM backup
in diag it has 0 value
y3/12s6 pressure distributor position sensor -
do you know where it is located in ehs?
or is it necessary to replace the complete ehs?
You will help me a lot, I will be very grateful for any advice 🙏
@@richardvalach3353 I don't think you need the whole valve body your problem sounds more like the conductor plate only. Those days they are cheap but you will need to code them or get it coded to the VIN as far I remember.
Thank you very much, I did not expect such an early reply. There are so few smart people in the world that they show in the videos. I'm a big fan
@@richardvalach3353 good luck with your repair and thank you
Hi, thanks for this amazing DIY. Is there somewhere I could send my transmission codes to you for a repair recommendation?
Sort of difficult to say this online but you are welcome to post them here and Monday I go and check and will respond maybe I can give you an idea what's going on
2725
2734
2810
2759
Vehicle Information
DTC
Description
The Internal Electrical Check Of Component Y3/8y6(B2 Brake Control Solenoid valve(VGS)) Has Failed.
The Internal Electrical Check Of Component Y3/8y3(K2 Clutch Control Solenoid valve(VGS)) Has Failed.
The Internal Electrical Check Of Component
Y3/8y1(Working Pressure Control Solenoid valve(VGS)) Has Failed.
The Internal Electrical Check Of Component Y3/8y8(Torque Converter Lockup Clutch Control Solenoid valve(VGS)) Or Check Of Component Y3/8y9(Start-up Clutch Control Solenoid Valve) Has Failed.
State
Current and stored
@@AlRa-xt3hr send year and model please
2007 clk 550 amg cabrio
I'd like to add that after the car has warmed up for about 40 minutes it runs perfectly and no codes at all.
Where in Texas are you located?
I was told that you have to re program the transmission control module after installation of the output sensor. Is this true?
Not that I remember the only time you need programming is when you replace the conductor plate because of immobilizer. You might like to do an adaptation but I don't think that even this is needed. Of course you need a scan tool to erase remaining codes the battery disconnect might not work.
@@G-MansWorld I am replacing the conductor plate just like in your video. So I can just replace the plate and then drive to a shop to erace the codes and i will be good?
@markjones8632 I did not replace the conductor plate I only replaced a sensor on the conductor plate that's why no programming is required if you replace the whole board than you need programming car won't start
What software do you use to read your transmission codes? Would it work on a 2011 E350?
We have Autel maxi in the shop but you don't need anything super fancy a Bluetooth dongle and some android software for MB should be ok to get codes out of the TCM or ECU good luck 🤞
This is a very informative video and provides enough visual facts for the brave DIY mechanic to do a repair. Well done. I'm going to replace sensor Y3/8n1 when the replacement one arrives in the mail. When you re-assembled the unit, what torque settings did you use to tighten: a) the 7 control unit bolts to valve body, and b) the 4 bolts securing the solenoids? It would be a great help to me if you could let me know, as I can't find that information anywhere.
I am sorry but I do not remember if I did actually research those torque spec or if I just used my feel for it but almost sure I did this just by feel
@@G-MansWorld Thanks for your quick reply. I'll do the same as you and go by feel.
I have code p0748 says I need to replace gear selector sensor Y3/8s1. Does it need reprogramming after replacing?
No should not need programming if you replace only the sensor. Consider subscribing it's free and helps me to get to my first 1k subs......thanks
Thanks for the information. What is the company name of the sensors
I don't remember it's too long ago I bought them on eBay
@@G-MansWorld was that a reliable product?
@@Gejoepee probably yes it's long ago and fixed the issue back than but today the whole conductor plate is pretty cheap I believe
I have a 2007 mercedes c230 with a 0717 code. Turbine/ input speed sensor no signal. The car is in limp mode it stays in 2nd gear and also thunks into reverse and drive. I plan on replacing the y3/8n1 and y3/8n2. Will this solve my issue?
Never a guarantee but worth a try it's cheap and not that much work
Have a quite similair problem with my A45 amg. Did it work? I am considering replacing few solenoids aswell
Do you have to reset transmission after do it
Just delete the code and move on no programming or relearn needed disconnect the battery if you do not have a Scan tool
@G-MansWorld thanks you
Hello this video was helpful with me finding my problem but my y2/8n3 is covered with apoxy, how do I get it out now?
You use the special punch tool to cut it out of the epoxy but some tools are kind a soft try to buy one that is decent quality
remember to support the sensor from the bottom to avoid destroying the housing
First thank you so so much for that video and information
Second I will do it and give you update if I done it ✌️
Did you do it?
Did you ever complete this project?
What about the output sensor ??? No one has a video on that? The bigger sensor with the magnet in it
Nice bro! it felt really relaxing watching this.
Do you know if y3/8s1 is repairable? It has a p0705 code is the range selector for PRDN
I do not know it's also a long time ago when I did this fix. Sorry can't help you out here but range selector solenoid should be possible to fix. On the other hand those conductor plates are not that expensive anymore.
Thank you bro, your are the man!
Tanks for the video, Only One question. When you chance the sesors you need reprograming the TCM module to reconice it?
No you do not need to program
hello friend, have are you? i have a same problem on the mercedes w 211 2,8 cdi 7G tronic.on the 7G tronic (73 32 ) damage Y3/8N2 spead sensor and i nead to change.I can't find this code and if I install 72 29 the sensor will work? thenk you.
Maybe it will it not always solve all the problems difficult to say the sensors are cheap and it's easy to do worth a try.
Hi which tool good to program this unit
Hello, where you buy the sensors?
I bought them on eBay if I remember correctly
Where Can I buy both Solenoids?
I got them on eBay
Hey I’m wondering if you can do it for me, I have the same code but not the tools to do it
Sorry but I do not offer repair service like this and you always need to keep in mind this will most likely fix your issue but a 100% success nobody can promise you.
Where did you buy those sensors at
Eeeebay
I have a 2007 s550 giving me codes p2767 & p0717. The car has a few bumps when shifting if i am flooring the car but not when cruising, sometimes when cruising the car will lose acceleration as if it were going limp and running at about 10% capacity and then it open back up again completely, any thoughts? My mechanic is recommending me to change out the entire valve body
Sorry can't really help in this case
Where you buy the sensors ? Please and thank for this video is very informative 🛠️👍
@@betotragedias4769 long ago I bought them on ebay
Is this what can cause a delayed Upshift (thump sound) when accelerating briskly?
I do not think so
@@G-MansWorld hello thank you for the video, if I change the electronic plate it must be reprogrammed or not? thank you in advance
@@amazighe4514
I believe yes imobilizer is on the board but not 100% sure
@@G-MansWorld thank you very much is good bruises
Hello Thank you for the video I have a question serves the same for a Mercedes 320 clk 98?
I do not believe you have a 7G in a 98 benz
Ok thanks you bro
Hello, I made the change of the whole module for my ML 500 W164 with its reprogramming, but now my vehicle does not exceed 4000 RPM at any time, it is like that its limit is that, and it throws an error in an N15 / 7 module which when looking for that module is not used by my Mercedes, could it be a bad programming?
There is no need to reprogram if u do those 2 speed sensors ....and yes this sounds like bad programming to me but not a Mercedes guru 🤠
Hi from dubai. Thanks for great video. Like to know after fixing sensors. How did you reprogram it back .
relearning you can do with any advanced scan tool for example Autel and others
The Sensor replacement should not make it neccesary to Programm the TCU. Am I correct ?
That's correct
Thanks for sharing! I am geeting codes 0730 /2505 / 2502 My next step is to drop the valve body and plate to look for for debris at the K1 solenoid. I have gears R - D1 - D2 and then nothing when it attempt to shift to 3rd. Per the 722.9 chat it is at this time that the K1 solenoid is to be activated so I am going to look for related issues there. Have you and is it safe to put 12V to the solenoid to confirm actuation?
should be not a problem
@@G-MansWorld Thanks. I found this piece of information in a forum but the image of the port layout wasn't accessible. "If you have the valve body out you can air pressure test the K1 by putting air to the hole in the trans case for K1" do you know how I could complete this test or have a picture of the port layout?
I do not I did only focus on this sensor back than I did rebuild some transmissions in the past but it's not what I do for a living I would need to search for this my self sorry
@@G-MansWorld OK no problem thanks for the response. Have a good day
I thought Y3/6n2 and Y3/6n3 were those 2 sensors in the middle of the plate. 🤔
where can you buy the replacement sensor?
You can find it in epay
@@مغامراتالوادي where i can find that sensor
Would this code put you in limp mode?
Yes
This is awesome
Thank you
Thanks considering subscribing it helps a lot. Still try to get to 1000 subs
Thanks for commenting
Subscribed and shared man!!!
Just got a version of Star so I’m about to have some fun!
buenas tardes, como se hace la programación de la caja
Necesitas un Scanner avanzado que pueda hacer programacion de modulos. Autel es uno de esos Scanners.
Very good video.
Bro ive changed the sensor but my error still not going and comes back after some time when i start driving the car.Ive change the sensor twice to confirm
Did you ever fix the car? Same happened to me, just replaced the y38n2 sensor and the car drove ok for 70 miles then went back to limp mode and getting same error code.
Please give me the part number that u fix new
Did the final repair correct the problem, Did it work?
I assume yes never heard back from the person
Hey, after replacing the completw transmission on my 2008 w204 the car hesitate to shift from one gear to another and there is also a jerk if in shifting gear liver from P to D or D to R, any thoughts?
No difficult to tell but sounds like a valve body issue
Maybe try to measure line pressures in those gears and see if they in spec but I am not a expert on those tranny's by any means.
Thanks G Man 👍
There’s a company that fixes the contact plate sensors , conduinity (Circuit Board Medics)
I don't understand what you're saying you Mumble too much
Sorry but I am in TX good luck fixing it if you consider to do this your self you do not need a lift to this jack stands will work fine and in 3 to 4 hours you back on the road. Otherwise try to ask your trusted mechanic I know they are hard to find :)
This is such a fukin horrible repair to do I did this repair on families car a couple years ago (BOTH SENSORS ONE IS EASY ONE IS HARD AS YOU SAY). Knocking out those sensors is no joke. hard to do without damaging the flexible circuit and other stuff. I ended up epoxying the long difficult to remove sensor back in there as I had damaged the plastic on the hard one closest to the computer. The other one beside it was easy to get out as you show. Next time (I hope theres not a next time) I'll have to try you're method. I used a supplied drift/cutter on the short sensor but the long one was super hard to get out. Car was working fine after the repair but I wouldnt feel comfortable charging people to do this I only do it for family.
You can find them on eBay all over the place
G Man I did. Great 👍 thank you 🙏
Volume is so low I can't hear what you're saying, and your camera angle continually has your hand in the way of what you're doing. Not to mention you fail to mention where those speed sensors can be purchased.
A waste of 23 minutes!
Be nice if we could see and hear what you aeey doing
I am flocking the dashboard of my Chevy Avalanche ....the first part of the video is done today I did record some more about dashboard removal and the result of first try to flock the front section. The dash is massively cracked and I did decide to get a molded cover to glue over to give it more strength and prevent more crack's after fixing it. After done I think it will have the parts first part is done .....now need to wait for the cover to come in.
For real! 🤦🏽♀️
8.13 Nm
Rather pay my master tech $1380 to do it right then watch this video haha
Sound like a deal for 20 bux on parts 🤣🤣🤣
Cant hear what youre saying
I didn’t understand nor hear anything you said... Vid did nothing for me... 🤷🏽♀️
“Try speaking without being heard Challenge”. I cannot hear a single thing.
Are you serious about this?!
He's hammering it! It won't clean it of oil (that's why there isn't even how to solder the sensor back). This tickling of the solenoid with a magnet will certainly not remove the chips, certainly not with this, it is weak. And at the end does he tighten the screws by feel?? Another tinkerer.
Yes that's the only way to get them out and it works just fine as long u support the other side with a socket basic mechanic stuff. I fixed lots of transmissions and rebuild some best part is they did shift fine after installation. The solenoids have screens on them the metal dust if any collects on the screen you won't need a super strong magnet but a neodymium magnet is pretty strong and works well. There is even Mercedes service instructions out there who tell you to do just that. All that matter on the end is if it works for you final result was ok I am happy. You can buy the whole board if you not comfortable with it but imobilizer is in it if I remember right so need programming.
This brute-force approach could damage other components. I found that there are other videos that show a special punch that cuts around the sensor and pulls it out. I suggest you search for those. To the creator: Also look for those videos so that you can level-up your approach. The video is informative but I would never bang on electronics like this. No, I'm not a mechanic, just a tech-savvy bass player with only one W-211.
It's a hole punch it comes in the set and you need to punch quiet heavy no way around it and some versions have a even stronger epoxy ..... So yeah I suggest to you to try it out your self and than come back and give me your opinion on how easy or not easy it actually is to get them out. But today u actually can buy the whole conductor plate for pretty cheap like 200 ish dollars almost not worth the hassle anymore.
I completed the repair of the y38n2 sensor and the car drove ok for about 70 miles and now I am getting the same error on the scanner and the transmission is back in limp mode. I am thinking I need to replace the conductor plate at this point??? It's vgs2 so I can do just the conductor plate. On ebay I can buy one that is ready to pair to the vehicle and preprogrammed to my Vin, but what else do I have to do to make it work with my car?
Danke für Info ruclips.net/video/e07F4Fwya6w/видео.html 😍👌
MATE i TRIED, i REALLY DID (09.56) BUT YOUR CAMERA WORK IS SHIT AND YOUR AUDIO IS EVEN WORSE. SORT IT OUT PLEASE COZ I RECKON THIS COULD HAVE BEEN GOOD.
Where in Texas are you located?