The idea is good but I noticed that the efficiency of a alternator converted to a motor is quite bad. the efficiency is like 50%-60% while a good brushless motor has an efficiency of 85% of even higher.
+Hedzer Pntang Try online, search for, or place an ad looking for old Li Ion laptop batteries. Most of the time, one cell fails and (*mostly 18650 Li ion) the rest is fine. make a few packs in parallel, and chain those up in series. RTR ebike's batteries run out after a year, you could try to find a dealer that gets repairs, most of the batteries are destroyed; which can cost a lot in disposal. Ask for a different project like a powerbank @48v for a extreme led lamp or something. Wouldn't be true, but isn't direct competition for what they sell ;) Looking forward to make something similar.. only... more like a gokart the size of a "Poekie" kids toy... legs out in front, plastic wheels with 15cm ground clearance :)
Can you show me how its built I gotta tandem I'm dieing to make it ebike an your idea is the best I've seen do you you use small batteries to start the alternator. Or do it do all the work ? Show me please summer's almost here an she wanna ride this one so please contact me with some pointers 😢
This is very cool. Why didn't you post any information on how you did it. Like battery voltage, speed controller, and what mods you did to the alternator. Please share this info It would be great for the rest of us to give it a try as well.
Hello, I used a 120Amp 12V alternator. It came from an Audi A3 TDI. The brushless controller is a HobbyWing Flyfun 100A HV. It is running on 11S Lipo cells. You need to have a separate voltage/ current controller to power the rotor of the alternator. High rotor current gives you a lot of torque but limited RPM and low rotor current gives less torque but higher RPM. It has a 3 mode rotor current selector switch for three top speeds.
Of course you have to remove the rectifier diodes from the alternator so you end up with 3 (or in my case 6) stator wires that you have to connect to the brushless controller.
It was very interesting thanks .. I had success running an alternator as a motor by connecting the stator 3 wires to esc connected to battery pack and applying voltage to the rotor carbon brushes through a brushed motor controller powered by 2 cells lipo and servo tester, just i didn't remove the regulator and apply voltage directly to the terminals on the regulator which transfers the current to the brushes, does it cause any problem? rotor takes somewhat between 0.2 and 0.6 amps and variable voltage ~1-7 volts by changing through servo tester, at the start it is necessary to have 4-6 volts to run the alternator and afterwards i reduce the voltage to 1-2 volts and alternator gets a lot happier and more rpm. Is this process normal? isn't rotor amps a bit low? maybe the reason is applying through regulator..is it necessary to remove regulator? And finally may i ask you to show me please how can i install the alternator on the tyre and make the bike run? Thanks in advance
First, you made a good plan using a brushed controller on the rotor brushes Second, its completely normal your alternator's behaviour Third, i would love to see your project
use two to power you trailer and not get stuck... what is the parts list for such a thing and what alternator did you use? Maybe you could put them on the rear wheels of a front wheel drive car. Have a little power on two rear wheels would help a lot and you could use them under normal power to charge your batteries..
Hello, I used a 12V 120Amp alternator, a hobbywing flyfun 100A HV ESC, 11 Lipo cells in series ( 2 4-cell packs in series and a 3 cell pack in series with the 2 4-cell packs) rated at 5000Mah to power the ECS, a seperate 2 cell Lipo battery for the rotor field power (these are the carbon brushes connections), a servo tester to control the speed, a receiver-BEC 5Volts power supply converter running from one of the lipo packs in order to power the servo tester and i used an old bicycle to strap it all on. VERY IMPORTANT NOTE when using a receiver BEC to power your servo tester, be absolutely sure to connect the power input of the receiver BEC only to the lipo pack that has its ground wire directly connected to the ground wire of the ESC input. Don't use any of the ''middle'' lipo packs or the lipo pack that has its + wire connected to the input of the ESC. Failing to do this will cause a short circuit running through the ground wire of the servo tester and since you are using high power Lipo packs this will be a very bad and dangerous thing to happen. Greetings
hello. I use a servo tester. that is a small box with some electronics and a potentiometer that ''simulates'' your RC command/ transmitter command. servo testers are very cheap and are readily available at most (online or physical) rc stores. you can try with a transmitter and receiver if you don't have a servo tester just to see if your conversion works. i suggest using a servo tester as soon as you know that your ''motor'' is working. Good luck ;-)
Hello. I reduced the rotor voltage to increase RPM at the cost of torque. It had plenty of torque nonetheless so reducing the rotor voltage did not cause any accellerating problems. greetings
No, it's not a alternator anymore. It's just a electric motor with this setup. I was wondering the same thing and I looked it up. I am thinking about doing a alternator on one wheel to charge a 2nd battery and the other wheel to have the electric motor. The only issue is that I would probably run out of battery before the 2nd battery is charged and I would be pedaling a heavy bike. I am researching my idea.
Hello. No i did not. I just used the original mechanic hardware of the alternator. you have to feed the carbon brushes with 5-10volts dc voltage. the nice feature of this requirement is that you can vary the torque/ rpm ratio of the alternator motor simply by varying the carbon brush voltage. Less carbon brush voltage gives you lots of rpm at the cost of torque and vice versa.
Can it work with 1.5 volt at rotor and 12 volt at stator?? Work without ESC??? Just to connect + to one wire and - to the other and the last wire not connet it will work???
First find out which sets of wires form a winding (using a multimeter) when you measure the resistance between the 6 stator wires by measuring between 2 wires each time you will notie that between 2 wires there is a resistance of 0.2 Ohms or so. There are 3 separate ''sets'' of windings of 0.2 ohms each. Now make a delta wire connection with the 3 sets of windings (just make a random delta) and hook every ''point'' of the delta up to a small esc for 12-20 volts /20-50Amps. Probably the first time you try this you will find out that te alternator will not run. this means that one of the windings is reversed. reverse a random winding and trry it again. It is a bit of trial and error but eventually you will find the right configuration. It can be time consuming tough :-)
Yes it is. It is not so much work. You need some basic tools like screwdrivers, cutting pliers, some wrenches or sockets and a soldering Iron. And of course you will need to know what you are doing. Greetings
I don't have a video related to the alternator to motor conversion ready but I''ll try to explain. It is not that difficult. just get a big 14V alternator, preferably one with a capacity of 120Amps or higher. you can even try this with a defective alternator (you can often even get them for free from car repair workshops that were going to throw a defective alternator in the recycle bin otherwise). usually on the broken alternators (that are not too old yet, like they ware taken off of a car built from 2003 and onwards) either the voltage regulator or the bridge rectifier is the part that is defective and for an alternator to motor conversion you don't need the voltage regulator and the bridge rectifier any way. get the alternator on your work bench, take the plastic back cover off and spot the 3 phase rectifier setup. cut the rectifier bridge out so that you only have the 3 or 6 thick copper strands coming out of the alternator. hopefully you have an alternator with 3 copper strands because alternators with 6 copper strands require some trial and error wiring later on. now take the voltage regulator (that is usually the part that is attached to you carbon brushes assembly off of the alternator. The ideal idea is that you are able to disconnect the voltage regulator electronics from the 2 carbon brush contacts either by cutting the voltage regulator off of the carbon brush assembly (beware that you have to be able to mount the carbon brush assembly back on the alternator afterwards) or by cutting/ scratching out the pcb tracks in the voltage regulator. using a multimeter, find out which contacts directly contact the carbon brushes. solder 2 wires on the carbon brush contacts and mount the carbon brush assembly back on the alternator. measure the resistance between the 2 carbon brush wires. the resistance should be like 2-5 ohms. now hook an rc brushless esc with bec (any brand rated for 3S-6S lipos and 20-40amps or more) up to the 3 copper strands coming out of your alternator. connect a battery pack to your ESC and also connect a dc voltage source of like 5 -10 volts to the 2 carbon brush wires. apply a throttle signal on your esc by either using a servo tester or a receiver combined with a transmitter (trying the first of these 2 mentioned methods is the most convenient but not always possible in case you dont have a servo tester yet) the alternator should run. it might have some starting issues but this is normal. Ps if you have an alternator with 6 copper strands, don't panic. just do the following: - using a multimeter find out which 3 ''pairs'' of 2 wires are connected to each other (a ''pair of wires'' has a resistance of 0.1-0.3 Ohms) - now make a delta (triangular) configuration using the 3 ''pairs'' of 2 wires. so one end of a pair connects to the beginning of another pair (there is no way to know what the beginning or end of a pair is, just connect and pray for the gods ;-) - hook each connection (there should be 3 connections now) to you brushless esc and try to run it as explained earlier. if it runs bad or doesnt run at all ''reverse'' any pair and try again. just keep reversing and trying and reversing and trying because in the end there is only one combination of connected pairs that will make your alternator run smoothly. good luck
How many volts in total are you running to drive the alternator? What wiring configuration is it delta or star? How many volts do you drive the exciter coil with? Would it be possible to use an 18v drill battery pack or pair in series and or parallel? What gauge wire did you use to run between the motor & esc? Thank you much for the info and entertainment!
Hello, the video is quite old so some things I cannot recall so well but I believe I used 6 cell lipos in series which would be some 24 or 25 Volts. The wiring was delta. The exciter was fed with 12 volts. Oh yes, 2 18volts battery packs would work in either series or parrallel. I suggest that you use a fairly big alternator. At least one rated for 120 Amps. 140 Amps or higher is even better. The biggest alternator i ever used for these kind of buikds was a 140 Amp one. Together with 12cell lipo battery I could reach 55kmh easily and with lots of accelleration. As wiring I just used some household wiring put in parralel strands. I loved the use of alternator as they can handle so much abuse and because of their weight it takes a long time to overheat which is good. The build quality and ruggedness of an alternator is unmatched too when compared to normal BLDC motors. Greetings
Hello, regarding the electronic part of the conversion, I explained this to somebody else in an earlier reply. Regarding the mechanical build-it-on-a-bike part. I welded an alternator holding frame (using some steel plates and bolts) to the bike so that the pulley of the alternator firmly rolls on the bike tire. NOTE WHEN DOING THIS!! most of the newer alternators have a free wheel pulley/ free wheel bearing/ one way clutch or whatever you want to call it so make sure that the alternator is built on the bike (alternator body on the left side of the wheel or alternator body on the right side of the wheel) in such a way that when the alternator is driven by the controller it actually drives and rotates the bike wheel and only ''free wheels'' when you are letting go of the throttle and coasting down the road.
+keza hello, 40 amps could be used but I would reccomend an esc with at least a capacity of 60Amps or more if you are going to power a vehicle. Alternators are very inefficient motors and when used as a motor, the esc can get quite warm. Bigger esc's usually handle the alternators better than smaller esc's. But if you are going to start a project you can use the 40 amps esc for the test and trial phase. I started with like 40amps esc's too just to get all the connections and basic functions checked. Greetings
this setup was actually running on 46Volts dc. You need quite some voltage to reach good top speed. You can try to get high top speed with lower battery voltage by decreasing the rotor current but you will loose the needed torque
Hedzer Pntang hey can you help me figure out how to find the three connections from the alternator to the speed controller, I have six wires coming from the alternator windings
Hello, first find out which sets of 2 wires form a winding using a multimeter. there are 3 sets of 2 wires each which will give a resistance of 0.1-0.5Ohms. just measure between any sets of 2 wires and label or mark them when you find the winding. Then make a delta connection with the 3 sets of windings and connect a small (cheap) esc to it for testing. Also connect a small dc voltage (like 5 volts) to the rotor slip ring carbon brushes. usualy you have to ''reverse'' some of the stator winding connections before you find the correct wiring that will get the alternator running. Also usually you have to give the alternator a little spin to help it going. when you have the correct winding delte connections, your alternator will run. if not, change the winding directions and try again. Good luck :-)
Hedzer Pntang thank you for replying, I will try that, thank you, another question, will my alternator run without voltage to the rotor, when I was putting my alternator back together I broke the carbon brushes, I didn't realize I could push the brushes up inside the regulator and Put a pin to hold them in place until the regulator is in place, so I need a new regulator, I found one in my town for $15, just need money ahahwz anyway for testing will my alternator run without voltage to the rotor?
Hello, you alternator will not run without a rotor voltage. you will always need it. attempting to run an alternator without rotor voltage is very bad for your esc I have learned. Because when trying this, the ESC cannot ''see'' the alternator's magnetic rotor field and therefore does not know how to power it. the ESC can get very got in a matter of seconds when trying this. cheers
LMAO! thats about 32mph and pretty darn ballsy on something that doesn't have any suspension. I like what you did but please find yourself a cheap full suspension mountain bike to transfer the goodies onto.
Hello and well don you make good job Pleace thell me its posiboll to run car althernator- sensorless motor with sensor controler .Because I want to buy a powerful controller but all are sensor, I also have a motor alternator with 36v 15amrera controller but it is weak for my bike Thank you in advance
The wind in the mic on the camera is so annoying I assumed the rest of the video would be the same? Put a piece of tape over the mic and it wont have that stupid annoying sound in your videos.
+sean barrasin hello. There are some variables like battery voltage, rotor voltage/current, used esc, original power of the alternator, possible miswiring of the stator wires and gear ratio (this last thing is only important when you are powering a vehicle) which all contribute to whether the alternator is functioning correctly as a motor. Greetings
I LOVE those unattached wires swaying freely at 0:57 off your right handlebar.... makes me want to build one...
The best alternator bike on RUclips
alternators for bikes are the next great step in humanities development ! and global power lol
The idea is good but I noticed that the efficiency of a alternator converted to a motor is quite bad. the efficiency is like 50%-60% while a good brushless motor has an efficiency of 85% of even higher.
@@hedzerpntang3107 Where have you noticed this? Give us your example...
@@hedzerpntang3107 may be the phase connection, try to wire it in a delta configuration.
Now that's a real motorized bike! the rust the loose wires the wind in your hair that's what it's all about
You should do a video on how to make that
It sounds like a tie fighter when it went by on the street.
Your insane in that rusty tin can, they feel alot faster once upon them
Great challenge without front (disc) brake hope rear brake is good :-))) great video ! 0:01 nice blue tensioner😂
This video made me so excited I had to go do a poo!! Well done!
Mee too !
Neill Wylie wtf hahaha
Commenting from toilet😂
Awesome!
Top work
You should do a step by step video on how you did it?
👏👏👏
ESC -eLectronic Speed Control, an electronic box that controls amount of electric power provided for speed.
More power more speed
Heya, would you mind explaining how this amazing feat was achieved?
bravo
more power captain!
it was fast and scary enough already. lol
How intuitive
Your idea is very good .
if you install tow 40amp battery than it will bass more KM
+zabihullah Ahmadi Thank you. Lithium batteries of over 40Volts and 40amps are quite expensive :-)
+Hedzer Pntang Try online, search for, or place an ad looking for old Li Ion laptop batteries. Most of the time, one cell fails and (*mostly 18650 Li ion) the rest is fine. make a few packs in parallel, and chain those up in series.
RTR ebike's batteries run out after a year, you could try to find a dealer that gets repairs, most of the batteries are destroyed; which can cost a lot in disposal. Ask for a different project like a powerbank @48v for a extreme led lamp or something. Wouldn't be true, but isn't direct competition for what they sell ;)
Looking forward to make something similar.. only... more like a gokart the size of a "Poekie" kids toy... legs out in front, plastic wheels with 15cm ground clearance :)
Hello,
Thanks for the suggestions/ ideas! I'm interested in your projects by the way.
Gostei do côco no guidão 😂😂😂😂😂
Can you show me how its built I gotta tandem I'm dieing to make it ebike an your idea is the best I've seen do you you use small batteries to start the alternator. Or do it do all the work ? Show me please summer's almost here an she wanna ride this one so please contact me with some pointers 😢
This is very cool. Why didn't you post any information on how you did it. Like battery voltage, speed controller, and what mods you did to the alternator. Please share this info It would be great for the rest of us to give it a try as well.
Hello, I used a 120Amp 12V alternator. It came from an Audi A3 TDI. The brushless controller is a HobbyWing Flyfun 100A HV. It is running on 11S Lipo cells. You need to have a separate voltage/ current controller to power the rotor of the alternator. High rotor current gives you a lot of torque but limited RPM and low rotor current gives less torque but higher RPM. It has a 3 mode rotor current selector switch for three top speeds.
Of course you have to remove the rectifier diodes from the alternator so you end up with 3 (or in my case 6) stator wires that you have to connect to the brushless controller.
It was very interesting thanks ..
I had success running an alternator as a motor by connecting the stator 3 wires to esc connected to battery pack and applying voltage to the rotor carbon brushes through a brushed motor controller powered by 2 cells lipo and servo tester, just i didn't remove the regulator and apply voltage directly to the terminals on the regulator which transfers the current to the brushes, does it cause any problem?
rotor takes somewhat between 0.2 and 0.6 amps and variable voltage ~1-7 volts by changing through servo tester, at the start it is necessary to have 4-6 volts to run the alternator and afterwards i reduce the voltage to 1-2 volts and alternator gets a lot happier and more rpm.
Is this process normal? isn't rotor amps a bit low? maybe the reason is applying through regulator..is it necessary to remove regulator?
And finally may i ask you to show me please how can i install the alternator on the tyre and make the bike run?
Thanks in advance
First, you made a good plan using a brushed controller on the rotor brushes
Second, its completely normal your alternator's behaviour
Third, i would love to see your project
use two to power you trailer and not get stuck... what is the parts list for such a thing and what alternator did you use?
Maybe you could put them on the rear wheels of a front wheel drive car. Have a little power on two rear wheels would help a lot and you could use them under normal power to charge your batteries..
Hello, I used a 12V 120Amp alternator, a hobbywing flyfun 100A HV ESC, 11 Lipo cells in series ( 2 4-cell packs in series and a 3 cell pack in series with the 2 4-cell packs) rated at 5000Mah to power the ECS, a seperate 2 cell Lipo battery for the rotor field power (these are the carbon brushes connections), a servo tester to control the speed, a receiver-BEC 5Volts power supply converter running from one of the lipo packs in order to power the servo tester and i used an old bicycle to strap it all on. VERY IMPORTANT NOTE when using a receiver BEC to power your servo tester, be absolutely sure to connect the power input of the receiver BEC only to the lipo pack that has its ground wire directly connected to the ground wire of the ESC input. Don't use any of the ''middle'' lipo packs or the lipo pack that has its + wire connected to the input of the ESC.
Failing to do this will cause a short circuit running through the ground wire of the servo tester and since you are using high power Lipo packs this will be a very bad and dangerous thing to happen. Greetings
do you use controller or mosfet only?
I have another idea to use the alternator.
Hi, what battery did you use for it and what ESC?
Hello, I used 11 lipo cells in series. 5AH each. The ecs is a hobbywing flyfun 100A HV, rated for 12 Lipo Cells
Awesome! So does this use no battery at all?
holy fuck, no it has to use a power source so yes it does probably a car battery they just flipped the polatiry
Yes and I think you don't use a brain at all too.
Ben James really?
How much volts you used for that ..? And about speed...it's with klm...or mile ..?.. thanks
Hi i'm trying to make the same, but i don't understand how to wire the esc in order to control it. Did u use a potentiometer or the rc command?
hello. I use a servo tester. that is a small box with some electronics and a potentiometer that ''simulates'' your RC command/ transmitter command. servo testers are very cheap and are readily available at most (online or physical) rc stores. you can try with a transmitter and receiver if you don't have a servo tester just to see if your conversion works. i suggest using a servo tester as soon as you know that your ''motor'' is working. Good luck ;-)
Sir, can you please fix that alternator on front wheel of scooter?
Thanks for this clip., What are you doing at 0.36 then increase speed?.sorry for my english.
Hello. I reduced the rotor voltage to increase RPM at the cost of torque. It had plenty of torque nonetheless so reducing the rotor voltage did not cause any accellerating problems. greetings
How many volt battery
hola amigo una pregunta alternador cual carro
If you're using an alternator to power your bike, can you charge your battery at the same time?
No, it's not a alternator anymore. It's just a electric motor with this setup. I was wondering the same thing and I looked it up. I am thinking about doing a alternator on one wheel to charge a 2nd battery and the other wheel to have the electric motor. The only issue is that I would probably run out of battery before the 2nd battery is charged and I would be pedaling a heavy bike. I am researching my idea.
@@Spanky8402 Yah. Did you like in your project?
Did you change the rotor with permanment magnet??? Sorry for my english
Hello. No i did not. I just used the original mechanic hardware of the alternator. you have to feed the carbon brushes with 5-10volts dc voltage. the nice feature of this requirement is that you can vary the torque/ rpm ratio of the alternator motor simply by varying the carbon brush voltage. Less carbon brush voltage gives you lots of rpm at the cost of torque and vice versa.
Hedzer Pntang thank you
Can this work to an old alternator 3 wires coming from stator and 2 from rotor (brush carbon)
Can it work with 1.5 volt at rotor and 12 volt at stator?? Work without ESC??? Just to connect + to one wire and - to the other and the last wire not connet it will work???
@@user-gu4mj6pk1 It will not work without an ECS
what about the acceleration? i would like to see it accelerating
Hello. It accellerates like hell. it goes from 5MPH to 25MPH in about 5-7 seconds
how do you figure out the three connections on the alternator ?
remove the rectifier bridge from the back side of the alternator. then spot the 3 copper wire strands coming out of the alternator.
I like the ultra-cheap method of powering the wheels - simply use the existing pulley on the tyre! Only problem is when it rains...
Yes the traction gets shitty on wet roads ;-) cheers
How connected case 6 stator
First find out which sets of wires form a winding (using a multimeter) when you measure the resistance between the 6 stator wires by measuring between 2 wires each time you will notie that between 2 wires there is a resistance of 0.2 Ohms or so. There are 3 separate ''sets'' of windings of 0.2 ohms each. Now make a delta wire connection with the 3 sets of windings (just make a random delta) and hook every ''point'' of the delta up to a small esc for 12-20 volts /20-50Amps. Probably the first time you try this you will find out that te alternator will not run. this means that one of the windings is reversed. reverse a random winding and trry it again. It is a bit of trial and error but eventually you will find the right configuration. It can be time consuming tough :-)
how much amps is that esc?
it is a hobbywing HV 100Amps 50Volts ESC
Dang 40 mph
Actually it was 40kmh.
c'est toujours l'alternateur 70 ampères.Quelle est la puissance de la batterie- Quelle est la distance que l'on peut faire
Is the alternator converted to a motor?
Yes it is. It is not so much work. You need some basic tools like screwdrivers, cutting pliers, some wrenches or sockets and a soldering Iron. And of course you will need to know what you are doing. Greetings
Hello, no sensor hall on motor?
Hello. it does not use hall sensors. so only from a dead stop you will have to help it a little. cheers
Which type of esc used and voltage and amp
I used an Hobbywing flyfun 100A HV esc. it runs on 12 Lipo cells and it draws about 40-60Amps on top speed.
can u show me the step by step do it
I don't have a video related to the alternator to motor conversion ready but I''ll try to explain.
It is not that difficult. just get a big 14V alternator, preferably one with a capacity of 120Amps or higher. you can even try this with a defective alternator (you can often even get them for free from car repair workshops that were going to throw a defective alternator in the recycle bin otherwise). usually on the broken alternators (that are not too old yet, like they ware taken off of a car built from 2003 and onwards) either the voltage regulator or the bridge rectifier is the part that is defective and for an alternator to motor conversion you don't need the voltage regulator and the bridge rectifier any way. get the alternator on your work bench, take the plastic back cover off and spot the 3 phase rectifier setup. cut the rectifier bridge out so that you only have the 3 or 6 thick copper strands coming out of the alternator. hopefully you have an alternator with 3 copper strands because alternators with 6 copper strands require some trial and error wiring later on. now take the voltage regulator (that is usually the part that is attached to you carbon brushes assembly off of the alternator. The ideal idea is that you are able to disconnect the voltage regulator electronics from the 2 carbon brush contacts either by cutting the voltage regulator off of the carbon brush assembly (beware that you have to be able to mount the carbon brush assembly back on the alternator afterwards) or by cutting/ scratching out the pcb tracks in the voltage regulator. using a multimeter, find out which contacts directly contact the carbon brushes. solder 2 wires on the carbon brush contacts and mount the carbon brush assembly back on the alternator. measure the resistance between the 2 carbon brush wires. the resistance should be like 2-5 ohms.
now hook an rc brushless esc with bec (any brand rated for 3S-6S lipos and 20-40amps or more) up to the 3 copper strands coming out of your alternator. connect a battery pack to your ESC and also connect a dc voltage source of like 5 -10 volts to the 2 carbon brush wires. apply a throttle signal on your esc by either using a servo tester or a receiver combined with a transmitter (trying the first of these 2 mentioned methods is the most convenient but not always possible in case you dont have a servo tester yet) the alternator should run. it might have some starting issues but this is normal.
Ps if you have an alternator with 6 copper strands, don't panic. just do the following:
- using a multimeter find out which 3 ''pairs'' of 2 wires are connected to each other (a ''pair of wires'' has a resistance of 0.1-0.3 Ohms)
- now make a delta (triangular) configuration using the 3 ''pairs'' of 2 wires. so one end of a pair connects to the beginning of another pair (there is no way to know what the beginning or end of a pair is, just connect and pray for the gods ;-)
- hook each connection (there should be 3 connections now) to you brushless esc and try to run it as explained earlier. if it runs bad or doesnt run at all ''reverse'' any pair and try again. just keep reversing and trying and reversing and trying because in the end there is only one combination of connected pairs that will make your alternator run smoothly.
good luck
Can't you just leave the rectifier/diode in place and use it as the brush holder after disconnecting the 3 wires from it?
Which type of esc is better
Usually any ESC works. But for a good top speed you will need a high voltage ESC.
What wat 25w , wat ?
How many volts in total are you running to drive the alternator? What wiring configuration is it delta or star? How many volts do you drive the exciter coil with? Would it be possible to use an 18v drill battery pack or pair in series and or parallel? What gauge wire did you use to run between the motor & esc? Thank you much for the info and entertainment!
Hello, the video is quite old so some things I cannot recall so well but I believe I used 6 cell lipos in series which would be some 24 or 25 Volts. The wiring was delta. The exciter was fed with 12 volts. Oh yes, 2 18volts battery packs would work in either series or parrallel. I suggest that you use a fairly big alternator. At least one rated for 120 Amps. 140 Amps or higher is even better. The biggest alternator i ever used for these kind of buikds was a 140 Amp one. Together with 12cell lipo battery I could reach 55kmh easily and with lots of accelleration. As wiring I just used some household wiring put in parralel strands. I loved the use of alternator as they can handle so much abuse and because of their weight it takes a long time to overheat which is good. The build quality and ruggedness of an alternator is unmatched too when compared to normal BLDC motors. Greetings
How to do video please
i have a spare car alternator here, can you teach me how to convert it in my bike? thanks
Hello, regarding the electronic part of the conversion, I explained this to somebody else in an earlier reply. Regarding the mechanical build-it-on-a-bike part. I welded an alternator holding frame (using some steel plates and bolts) to the bike so that the pulley of the alternator firmly rolls on the bike tire. NOTE WHEN DOING THIS!! most of the newer alternators have a free wheel pulley/ free wheel bearing/ one way clutch or whatever you want to call it so make sure that the alternator is built on the bike (alternator body on the left side of the wheel or alternator body on the right side of the wheel) in such a way that when the alternator is driven by the controller it actually drives and rotates the bike wheel and only ''free wheels'' when you are letting go of the throttle and coasting down the road.
can I run altenator with 40a esc
+keza hello, 40 amps could be used but I would reccomend an esc with at least a capacity of 60Amps or more if you are going to power a vehicle. Alternators are very inefficient motors and when used as a motor, the esc can get quite warm. Bigger esc's usually handle the alternators better than smaller esc's. But if you are going to start a project you can use the 40 amps esc for the test and trial phase. I started with like 40amps esc's too just to get all the connections and basic functions checked. Greetings
I made it with 40amp esc and with car battery 45Ah . friction is biggest problem but its fun.
Thx for idea.
how many volts? 12???
this setup was actually running on 46Volts dc. You need quite some voltage to reach good top speed. You can try to get high top speed with lower battery voltage by decreasing the rotor current but you will loose the needed torque
Hedzer Pntang hey can you help me figure out how to find the three connections from the alternator to the speed controller, I have six wires coming from the alternator windings
Hello, first find out which sets of 2 wires form a winding using a multimeter. there are 3 sets of 2 wires each which will give a resistance of 0.1-0.5Ohms. just measure between any sets of 2 wires and label or mark them when you find the winding. Then make a delta connection with the 3 sets of windings and connect a small (cheap) esc to it for testing. Also connect a small dc voltage (like 5 volts) to the rotor slip ring carbon brushes. usualy you have to ''reverse'' some of the stator winding connections before you find the correct wiring that will get the alternator running. Also usually you have to give the alternator a little spin to help it going. when you have the correct winding delte connections, your alternator will run. if not, change the winding directions and try again. Good luck :-)
Hedzer Pntang thank you for replying, I will try that, thank you, another question, will my alternator run without voltage to the rotor, when I was putting my alternator back together I broke the carbon brushes, I didn't realize I could push the brushes up inside the regulator and Put a pin to hold them in place until the regulator is in place, so I need a new regulator, I found one in my town for $15, just need money ahahwz anyway for testing will my alternator run without voltage to the rotor?
Hello, you alternator will not run without a rotor voltage. you will always need it. attempting to run an alternator without rotor voltage is very bad for your esc I have learned. Because when trying this, the ESC cannot ''see'' the alternator's magnetic rotor field and therefore does not know how to power it. the ESC can get very got in a matter of seconds when trying this. cheers
that speed is 40km/h or 40mph?
+ESCOBAR CRISTIAN hello. the speed is 40km/h. I have had it over 52km/h the other day
LMAO! thats about 32mph and pretty darn ballsy on something that doesn't have any suspension. I like what you did but please find yourself a cheap full suspension mountain bike to transfer the goodies onto.
I hit 40mph on mine with no suspension. Don't do that, it's dumb.
Hello and well don you make good job Pleace thell me its posiboll to run car althernator- sensorless motor with sensor controler .Because I want to buy a powerful controller but all are sensor, I also have a motor alternator with 36v 15amrera controller but it is weak for my bike Thank you in advance
Did he andwer anyone??
M Jac did he?
you made a electric Solex
yes it is rather an el-cheapo method but easy to construct. it does have traction issues on a wet road though. cheers
Y.
The wind in the mic on the camera is so annoying I assumed the rest of the video would be the same?
Put a piece of tape over the mic and it wont have that stupid annoying sound in your videos.
i have just tryed it dos not fuckin work
+sean barrasin hello. There are some variables like battery voltage, rotor voltage/current, used esc, original power of the alternator, possible miswiring of the stator wires and gear ratio (this last thing is only important when you are powering a vehicle) which all contribute to whether the alternator is functioning correctly as a motor. Greetings
Awesome!
ESC -eLectronic Speed Control, an electronic box that controls amount of electric power provided for speed.
More power more speed