Krylon Premium fixative overall seems to actually work, with least alteration of hue or textures, but wafting seems nearly ineffective, negating the entire purpose.
That's the problem with dry mediums like charcoal and pastels - fixing them simply doesn't make them smudge-proof. It only makes a protection against bangs and knocks dislodging too much material.
Is there any way to make them smudge proof? I appreciate your efforts for this video and explanation but how to use the fixative is still unanswered. Just right isn't right at all. Also,i understand this struggle as charcoal is my primary medium. I simply don't want to change my medium just because we haven't figured a way to actually fix it.
Tom, I have a question for you. I just finished a graphite/charcoal drawing, in which I made a tiny blunder with the white charcoal pencil. I essentially, by blending it wrong, turned some white spots blue, I've been doing all I can to rework those areas.... to the point that the paper is probably getting a little worn down. Would it help to spray the fixative spray in those spots, and work on top of that? In other words, will the fixative spray help maintain the integrity of the paper? Or do you have any other tips on how to go over the blue and make it white? Erasing is not much of an option at this point, as those spots on the paper have taken quite the beating.
If there's a danger of damaging the paper, (& so the artwork too), I certainly wouldn't try to draw any more. If you think you can risk one last effort to correct it, try erasing the areas with an eraser pencil (Tombow Mono eraser - these are thin and ideal for fine detailed erasing and mark-making). Then, reapply the white, either with a soft white pastel (least damaging but less control) or a white pastel pencil (more control but harder on the paper). Using fixative to remedy the blue areas might work, but there's also the risk of leaving spray marks around the fixed area. Best of luck. If you do end up making a hole in the paper or thinning it too much, you can always glue a patch behind to strengthen it again.
@@tommullinerart Thanks for the tips! Would you be opposed to the idea of lightly hitting the blue areas with a white, extra fine, Posca Acrylic Paint Marker? Or some white gouache paint? I think both of those go on matte, and can be drawn/shaded over. Thoughts?
I'm curious if you tried it. I definitely would spray, patching the back first with the same paper I'm using. That is the best thing about workable fixatif, and it definitely has kept me from scrapping a few things. Several things. I've only used the Krylon brand, so I have zero input on any other as of yet. Magic stuff, though. I say you could absolutely be rid of the blue, and have no sign that it was ever there, just slow and steady. I've been able to go over some pretty harsh mistakes, and then fixed them quite well. Valuable stuff. lol
It just so happens that is exactly what I'm working on at the moment! A drawing course for beginners and for those that haven't done any art for a while as well as a painting course. Stay tuned 😉
Krylon Premium fixative overall seems to actually work, with least alteration of hue or textures, but wafting seems nearly ineffective, negating the entire purpose.
I always use to give my artworks random splotches of fixative 🥺 this was super helpful
You're so welcome!
Excellent video with some very great points. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I just just right isn't just right if it doesn't fix it.
Thanks
Welcome
Just Right = waste 99% of the can and it still smudges
Yup this happened to me yesterday that’s why I’m here to watch this video
That's the problem with dry mediums like charcoal and pastels - fixing them simply doesn't make them smudge-proof. It only makes a protection against bangs and knocks dislodging too much material.
Is there any way to make them smudge proof? I appreciate your efforts for this video and explanation but how to use the fixative is still unanswered. Just right isn't right at all. Also,i understand this struggle as charcoal is my primary medium. I simply don't want to change my medium just because we haven't figured a way to actually fix it.
Hi tom please how can I use your technique for a work of 6ft?
Tom, I have a question for you. I just finished a graphite/charcoal drawing, in which I made a tiny blunder with the white charcoal pencil. I essentially, by blending it wrong, turned some white spots blue, I've been doing all I can to rework those areas.... to the point that the paper is probably getting a little worn down. Would it help to spray the fixative spray in those spots, and work on top of that? In other words, will the fixative spray help maintain the integrity of the paper? Or do you have any other tips on how to go over the blue and make it white? Erasing is not much of an option at this point, as those spots on the paper have taken quite the beating.
If there's a danger of damaging the paper, (& so the artwork too), I certainly wouldn't try to draw any more. If you think you can risk one last effort to correct it, try erasing the areas with an eraser pencil (Tombow Mono eraser - these are thin and ideal for fine detailed erasing and mark-making). Then, reapply the white, either with a soft white pastel (least damaging but less control) or a white pastel pencil (more control but harder on the paper). Using fixative to remedy the blue areas might work, but there's also the risk of leaving spray marks around the fixed area. Best of luck. If you do end up making a hole in the paper or thinning it too much, you can always glue a patch behind to strengthen it again.
@@tommullinerart Thanks for the tips! Would you be opposed to the idea of lightly hitting the blue areas with a white, extra fine, Posca Acrylic Paint Marker? Or some white gouache paint? I think both of those go on matte, and can be drawn/shaded over. Thoughts?
But I'm not sure how fixative spray interacts with those.
try gluing another piece of paper behind the hole to give it structural support before you attempt to add more fixative
I'm curious if you tried it. I definitely would spray, patching the back first with the same paper I'm using. That is the best thing about workable fixatif, and it definitely has kept me from scrapping a few things. Several things. I've only used the Krylon brand, so I have zero input on any other as of yet. Magic stuff, though. I say you could absolutely be rid of the blue, and have no sign that it was ever there, just slow and steady. I've been able to go over some pretty harsh mistakes, and then fixed them quite well. Valuable stuff. lol
Thank you for Practical & pro Documentation Describe! 📝📷📊👏
Please don't u have a course on how to draw
I really would like to learn how to draw and paint, thanks
It just so happens that is exactly what I'm working on at the moment! A drawing course for beginners and for those that haven't done any art for a while as well as a painting course. Stay tuned 😉
who else here to find how it's supposed to be done after partially ruining a work w/ 40+ hours put into it?
I hope you managed to save your work in the end. You can always fix your work - rework over the top and fix lightly again.
I screamed when it come to the too much 😂
Haha me too 🤣
@@tommullinerart Glad I am not only the one 😆