Thank you for such a good explanation, I have never heard of this system before. My water is not from a well, but it may be a similar situation as I live on the six and seventh floor in a block of flats, consequently my water pressure is low so I would like to install a pump and a small tank to even out the flow rate. Filling the bath upstairs takes a very long time. The system that you have explained may offer some advantages, so I will investigate it further. You are very good at drawing circles!
The Cycle Stop Valve works just as well on pumps boosting city water pressure as it does for a well pump. We do high rise buildings all the time. As long as you have enough volume of water on your floor, you can add a little jet pump like a J15S and a PK1A to boost the pressure from 10 PSI to 60 PSI constant. We could also do the entire block of flats with a larger pump and larger Cycle Stop Valve located on the lower floor. With 50-60 PSI constant you will no longer even need soap in the shower. :)
What I've understood from this video for my specific application which is a residential irrigation system is that I am much better suited for my 1/2 HP pump to use a CSV125-1 with a 4gal tank than to purchase a 26 or 32 gal tank??
Is the piston pump the one with the two wheels that is belt operated? If so, that's what I have on my submersible pump. It pulls water up into a cistern. From the cistern the jet pump pumps water out to the main line and a pressure tank- although, it has a tee before it reaches the pressure tank so I think it might be bypassing the pressure tank-- hence my crappy water pressure. LOL. I'm trying to figure out the best & easiest way to fix my setup. My pumps are in a crappy metal shed so I can't mount stuff to the walls and there isn't enough space to build something. So, if I have a tank tee, I could put this before it and just plug the various openings except the ones being used? What are the sizes of each opening? Does it matter if this is installed horizontally or vertically? Can I use PEX between the jet pump and CSV?
The CSV1A would go before that tee to the pressure tank. It would be best to replace the tank while you are at it with a PK1A kit using a 4.5 gallon size tank. That will save lots of space, work much better, and supply strong constant pressure to the house. Pex is fine, just use one size larger than you need to reduce the friction loss in the insert fittings.
The CSV will work with any size tank. You just need to set the CSV at 57 when using a 40/60 switch so it only takes a couple minutes to fill the tank after all the faucets are turned off. When the time comes that you need a new tank, a 4.5 or 10 gallon size is all you need.
What is the first component on your system? Is that a check valve? Wondering can you still install a brass check valve with this CSV to help protect the well pump from water heater thermal expansion. I heard many well pump systems already have one but with sediment they can fail and many people install a second new the indoor tank.
The little pressure tank with the Pside-Kick kits also doubles as a thermal expansion tank for the water heater. The check valve on the pump MUST function properly, or it will need to be replaced. Any other check valve in the system is just a problem waiting to happen. You cannot add another check valve above ground if the one on the pump fails, or it will cause a massive water hammer on pump start. The check on the pump will work better when it has all the pressure holding it closed, instead of only part of the pressure as happens when you have additional check valves. The same cycling on/off of the pump that usually causes check valves to fail, and is the reason most people think additional check valves are needed, will go away when you have a Cycle Stop Valve. When the cycling goes away, not only does the check valve and everything else in the system last longer, but many times the sediment also goes away, as cycling was also surging the well. But yes that is a check valve in Steve's pump system, which he will sooner or later have to remove when he starts getting water hammer. That is even a flapper type check valve instead of a spring loaded check valve, which I would not use in a pump system anywhere anyway.
May I jump In? No, do not install a second check valve anywhere. Your submersible pump already has a check valve, and that is the only one you need. I understand the Code in some areas does require a second check valve, but that is something dreamed up by Know-Nothing desk jockeys. Not necessary, and as the CSV guy says, a second valve will only cause trouble later on. If the pump's check valve ever gives you trouble it must be repaired, even if there is another in the system.
Unless your pump is WAY over-sized, NO. The back pressure from the CSV can only be as much as the pump can build. Most house pumps can only build 100 PSI or so, and if your pipe isn't rated for more than 100 PSI, the pipe is a problem and should be replaced anyway. Checking the pressure rating of the pipe, and seeing how much pressure your pump can build, which we can help you with, is the criteria for sizing a Cycle Stop Valve for your system.
I have a Grundfos JP20 2hp jet pump. I know it comes with an internal safety switch if the pump over heats. Will constant running of the pump not cause it to overheat? When I irrigate my lawn in 4 different zones it takes about an hour of irrigation. I have it set on an 80gal tank.
Pumps are made to run 24/7/365. But with a CSV the pump only runs continuously while you are using water. It does not run when the water is turned off. I know it is counter intuitive, but pumps overheat from cycling on and off too much, not from running continuously. An 80 gallon tank only holds 20 gallons of water. Your 20 GPM pump will cycle every minute or two with that big tank unless you add a CSV. And there are 1440 minutes in a day, so that is lots of cycling. I have a pump that hasn't shut off in 18 years, and it will last longer than my other pumps that cycle on and off as water is used.
100 gallon holding tank or pressure tank? Drawing water from a hundred gallon storage tank the PK1A kit with the 4.5 gallon pressure tank will work fine. With a 100 gallon pressure tank you can set the CSV to work with that tank or replace it with the PK1A kit and 4.5 gallon size tank.
The only check valve needed or wanted is the one on the submersible pump. A jet pump needs a check valve on the suction line or the discharge line prior to the CSV. One check valve is all that is needed. Any additional check valves will cause problems sooner or later.
I have a Wayne's brand 1/2 hp shallow-well jet pump with an attached pressure switch set at 30/50. Pumping water from an above ground swimming pool (used as water storage) The pressure tank is 44 gallons with a drawdown of 6.2 gallons. If I use the washing machine the pump gage drops to 30 psi (pump kick on) rather quickly but it does look like it's drawing 6 gallons. The water pressure filling the washing machine drops slightly at first. Then gradually the pressure continues to decrease filling the washing machine. Pressure at the pump now drops to 10 psi (sometimes lower) and water is barely trickling into the washing machine. I stop the washing machine from filling because I don't want the pump to be running at almost 0 psi. . No other water is being used in the home at this time. I can hear the pump start to draw more water beginning to fill the pressure tank. It would be another 30 mins. before the pressure switch reaches 50 psi to shut off the pump. That just seems too long to refill what may be only be 18-20 gallons of actually water going into the 44 gallon pressure tank. The pump and tank are 3 months old and this issue seemed to start as soon as they were installed. My previous pump system was a Craftsman shallow well pump with a built in check valve. Which lasted 15 years or more. I eventually want to pressure wash a roof which requires constant water pressure over a continuous 45 minute period. Would a CSV fix my issue?
Sounds like you are running out of water. But pumping from the above ground pool you should be able to see if you have water. A 44 gallon tank only holds about 11-12 gallons at 30/50, not 18-20, but more than 6 gallons of draw down. The CSV1A will hold 45 PSI constant to the pressure washer instead of letting the pump cycle on and off between 30 and 50. But if the pump cannot produce enough the pump will not cycle on/off as it should and the CSV won't be able to make it stay at 45. That pump should fill the 12 gallons in a 44 gallon size tank is less than 60 seconds, so something is wrong with the pump.
How much can this valve help pump life in a residential situation where you have a .5hp pump with a larger pressure tank, say 120Gallons. So, in this case, the pump should not start until a considerable amount of water is used. and when it starts it will run for sometime until all that 120 gallons is filled. Probably the advantage is maintaining the constant water pressure at the outlets. How should the valve be plumbed in such case.? Thank you
A 120 gallon pressure tank only holds 30 gallons of water. Every body thinks they have 120 gallons of water and that is not the case. It takes 75% air to push out the 30 gallons of water as needed. For in the house use only a pump will cycle less with a large tank. For outside use a pump will cycle much less with a CSV. Overall the CSV and small tank system will cycle less. And it doesn't really matter how many cycles a pump does for house use, as a house only uses maybe 300 gallons per day anyway. Using a CSV to eliminate cycling while showers and garden hoses are being used greatly reduces the number of cycles. So if it cycles every time you flush a toilet you are not hurting anything. I mean how many times a day can you flush a toilet anyway?
Unless you have diarrhea 😀 . I am just trying to understand if upgrading to csv will help more in my situation.I thought my tank could hold 100+ gallons. It's model HT-119B water worker.thank you for your reply.
LOL! Even then the pump will just stay on all day if you keep flushing the toilet every minute. The pump will not cycle as long as the toilet is flushed again within a minute or so. The only way to make the pump cycle is to wait at least two minutes between flushes. And then the pump is not cycling fast because you are waiting two minutes between cycles. Waiting only 1 minute between cycles and the pump just runs continuously until you stop flushing. Yeah everybody thinks pressure tanks hold a lot of water, but they don't. Water comes from the well and pump, not the tank. The tank is only there to slow the number of cycles, and when you have a CSV to do that for you, a large tank is not needed.
sir i am technnician of water treatment plant industrial plant but i need 15000 reverse osmosis plant how can we install it which make parts . please imform me
We work with water treatment plants all the time. But you may have to call or email as we will need more information. Thanks 806-885-4445 or info@cyclestopvalves.com
Off time should be irrelevant as the pump should stay off until you use water and never go off while you are using water. If not, you have a bad check valve or a hole in the pipe. If it is coming on before the pressure drops to 40 there maybe something wrong with the pressure switch. Having more air pressure in the tank than the start pressure for the pump will cause a water hammer and a momentary delay in water from the faucets.
A CSV is made similar to a pressure reducing valve. The CSV cannot completely close like a prv, which would deadhead and burn up the pump from zero flow. The CSV is designed to pass a specific amount of water even when in the closed position, to keep the pump cool and to slowly fill the pressure tank when no more water is being used. Who would have thought something so simple could solve so many problems?
@@cyclestopvalves8380 OK, thank you very much. I am a retired hydraulics engineer (oil hydraulics, not water) so I am interested in more specific details of this CSV operation, if you are willing to elaborate. Specifically, how do you keep the "self-flushing" seat itself from clogging in the valve closed position, like the holes in a shower head might with grit or other contamination? I am envisioning some ways this might be done, and realize this might be proprietary information, so understood if you can't go into too much detail here. And also, does the spring chamber of the valve vent to atmosphere in some way so trapped water under pressure doesn't interfere with valve pressure setting?
@@crazy1gadgets1 Yes the spring chamber vents to atmosphere. The non-clogging bypass is so simple it will make your head hurt. it is explained here. cyclestopvalves.com/pages/basic-operation-of-a-cycle-stop-valve
@@cyclestopvalves8380 Very interesting. This all makes perfect sense. Similar contamination known as silting in many oil hydraulic valves is flushed out in similar ways. A very good solution. I shall have to try it on my pump application. Thank you very much!
It use to be. But now thanks to your government, there is no such thing as brass. When they made us take all the lead out of brass it is longer any good. It turned into a Low lead alloy called Sibello, which is no where nearly as good as real brass. The low lead brass stuff now turns green like the Statue of Liberty. The green flakes off and clogs up the valve. It also has a tendency of developing pin holes in the castings. So about 50% of the ones that were cast, had to be melted down and done again, as 50% have pin holes in the casting. So we switched to Stainless Steel, which also has its problems, but nothing like the so called "low lead brass". All of this increased cost to all of use just to keep the government from having to accept blame for lead poisoning. Even solid lead pipes will not leach lead into the water as long as some government official doesn't pump acidic or caustic water down the lines like they did in Flint. The low lead laws make everything cost more and have less quality. We could all still have high quality and low cost brass components if the government would accept responsibility for their own actions, instead of trying to blame it on the pipe and fittings. Sorry for the rant. But you can thank your government for not having good quality and low cost brass available anymore.
i agree with you, the USA gov full of worthless paychecks. we the people are at fault we need involve in GOV town state fed, swindled and poisoned by all the moron politicians do.
some are, the better ones anyways, and now they are lead free brass. they are just more expensive because it is harder metal and more difficult to machine. the company I work for uses exclusively lead free brass because its just a better product than plastic or those other alloys
@@vegitoblue7908 If you do not have a pressure tank, then you do not need a pressure switch. Just turn the pump on with the breaker or use a pump start relay in an irrigation control box and do away with the pressure switch. Even without a pressure tank and pressure switch the CSV will regulate the pressure to 50 PSI even as irrigation zone sizes vary from 1 to 25 GPM.
The pump should turn on when you use water, and turn off when you stop using water. That is the job of the pressure switch, not the CSV. The pump should stay off if you are not using water, and if it doesn't you have a bad check valve, not a problem with the CSV. . But the CSV should keep the pump running continuously as long as you are using water. If the pump shuts off even once while the shower is on, even if you shower for a month, then the CSV is not working. If so, call us and we will figure out why and help you get it going. Cary
Lol! A pressure regulator would deadhead and burn up the pump in about 5 minutes. There is no "lag time" between on and off. The CSV only lets the pump shut off when you have completely stopped using any water. It does work sorta like a pressure regulator, it just makes sure there is always sufficient flow to keep the pump/motor cool. A little change to a pressure regulator makes all the difference.
Misleading. Showers are only occasional use. Washing hands and flushing toilets and getting a glass of water and rinsing a dish are more frequent uses. You usually use water about 20 times before a pressure tank cycles even once.
If any thing we said was "misleading" we wouldn't still be in business some 30+ years later. If with a big pressure tank you can use 20 things before the pump comes on, using a CSV with a small tank will save that many cycles during three showers or a sprinkler in the yard on for an hour or so. Although you can use a CSV with any size tank and have both 20 uses before the pump comes and AND no cycling for longer uses, the larger tank is still a waste of money and space.
I love the way this fellow does videos... so clear and attentive to detail.
You're a great instructor! Everything explained very well.
Glad I found this video. I am planning my system for my cabin . This will help me do it right the first time.
Excellent video, very clear and concise. Thank you very much!
What a clearly explained video!
You sir are a brilliant teacher. You have a natural gift and your knowledge is incredible. Thank you a million for sharing!
Love your teaching style
Thank you for such a good explanation, I have never heard of this system before.
My water is not from a well, but it may be a similar situation as I live on the six and seventh floor in a block of flats, consequently my water pressure is low so I would like to install a pump and a small tank to even out the flow rate. Filling the bath upstairs takes a very long time. The system that you have explained may offer some advantages, so I will investigate it further.
You are very good at drawing circles!
The Cycle Stop Valve works just as well on pumps boosting city water pressure as it does for a well pump. We do high rise buildings all the time. As long as you have enough volume of water on your floor, you can add a little jet pump like a J15S and a PK1A to boost the pressure from 10 PSI to 60 PSI constant. We could also do the entire block of flats with a larger pump and larger Cycle Stop Valve located on the lower floor. With 50-60 PSI constant you will no longer even need soap in the shower. :)
best video ever! Well explained and useful!!
pun intended Well good
Great work
that was an incredible circle @0:47
What I've understood from this video for my specific application which is a residential irrigation system is that I am much better suited for my 1/2 HP pump to use a CSV125-1 with a 4gal tank than to purchase a 26 or 32 gal tank??
0:48
Beautiful circle drawing skill!
lol
How dose back pressure keep the pump from rising in pressure?
Thanks 🙏
No one can do better than that
What's the price range on this part and installation?
Is the piston pump the one with the two wheels that is belt operated? If so, that's what I have on my submersible pump. It pulls water up into a cistern. From the cistern the jet pump pumps water out to the main line and a pressure tank- although, it has a tee before it reaches the pressure tank so I think it might be bypassing the pressure tank-- hence my crappy water pressure. LOL.
I'm trying to figure out the best & easiest way to fix my setup. My pumps are in a crappy metal shed so I can't mount stuff to the walls and there isn't enough space to build something.
So, if I have a tank tee, I could put this before it and just plug the various openings except the ones being used?
What are the sizes of each opening?
Does it matter if this is installed horizontally or vertically?
Can I use PEX between the jet pump and CSV?
The CSV1A would go before that tee to the pressure tank. It would be best to replace the tank while you are at it with a PK1A kit using a 4.5 gallon size tank. That will save lots of space, work much better, and supply strong constant pressure to the house. Pex is fine, just use one size larger than you need to reduce the friction loss in the insert fittings.
hello, my well-pump went down last month. Got 80 g tank already installed. Can I still use this Cycle Stop Valve on this big tank?
The CSV will work with any size tank. You just need to set the CSV at 57 when using a 40/60 switch so it only takes a couple minutes to fill the tank after all the faucets are turned off. When the time comes that you need a new tank, a 4.5 or 10 gallon size is all you need.
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video and I also would like to know how much money does it cost? Thanks👍🏽
Thank you. Our most popular CSV's are $89.00 and $224.00. Call us if you need some help. Cary
What is the first component on your system? Is that a check valve? Wondering can you still install a brass check valve with this CSV to help protect the well pump from water heater thermal expansion. I heard many well pump systems already have one but with sediment they can fail and many people install a second new the indoor tank.
The little pressure tank with the Pside-Kick kits also doubles as a thermal expansion tank for the water heater. The check valve on the pump MUST function properly, or it will need to be replaced. Any other check valve in the system is just a problem waiting to happen. You cannot add another check valve above ground if the one on the pump fails, or it will cause a massive water hammer on pump start. The check on the pump will work better when it has all the pressure holding it closed, instead of only part of the pressure as happens when you have additional check valves. The same cycling on/off of the pump that usually causes check valves to fail, and is the reason most people think additional check valves are needed, will go away when you have a Cycle Stop Valve. When the cycling goes away, not only does the check valve and everything else in the system last longer, but many times the sediment also goes away, as cycling was also surging the well.
But yes that is a check valve in Steve's pump system, which he will sooner or later have to remove when he starts getting water hammer. That is even a flapper type check valve instead of a spring loaded check valve, which I would not use in a pump system anywhere anyway.
May I jump In? No, do not install a second check valve anywhere. Your submersible pump already has a check valve, and that is the only one you need. I understand the Code in some areas does require a second check valve, but that is something dreamed up by Know-Nothing desk jockeys. Not necessary, and as the CSV guy says, a second valve will only cause trouble later on. If the pump's check valve ever gives you trouble it must be repaired, even if there is another in the system.
Can the back pressure from the CSV cause the pipes to burst? Our plumbing is not copper piping.
Unless your pump is WAY over-sized, NO. The back pressure from the CSV can only be as much as the pump can build. Most house pumps can only build 100 PSI or so, and if your pipe isn't rated for more than 100 PSI, the pipe is a problem and should be replaced anyway. Checking the pressure rating of the pipe, and seeing how much pressure your pump can build, which we can help you with, is the criteria for sizing a Cycle Stop Valve for your system.
I have a Grundfos JP20 2hp jet pump. I know it comes with an internal safety switch if the pump over heats. Will constant running of the pump not cause it to overheat? When I irrigate my lawn in 4 different zones it takes about an hour of irrigation. I have it set on an 80gal tank.
Pumps are made to run 24/7/365. But with a CSV the pump only runs continuously while you are using water. It does not run when the water is turned off. I know it is counter intuitive, but pumps overheat from cycling on and off too much, not from running continuously. An 80 gallon tank only holds 20 gallons of water. Your 20 GPM pump will cycle every minute or two with that big tank unless you add a CSV. And there are 1440 minutes in a day, so that is lots of cycling. I have a pump that hasn't shut off in 18 years, and it will last longer than my other pumps that cycle on and off as water is used.
@@cyclestopvalves8380 can I use it for irrigation without a pressure tank?
@@vegitoblue7908 Yes the CSV can be used with a pump start relay instead of a pressure tank.
I have a well pump and a hundred gallon holding tank will this small tank method work with my system?
100 gallon holding tank or pressure tank? Drawing water from a hundred gallon storage tank the PK1A kit with the 4.5 gallon pressure tank will work fine. With a 100 gallon pressure tank you can set the CSV to work with that tank or replace it with the PK1A kit and 4.5 gallon size tank.
Check valve before or after or where specifically?
The only check valve needed or wanted is the one on the submersible pump. A jet pump needs a check valve on the suction line or the discharge line prior to the CSV. One check valve is all that is needed. Any additional check valves will cause problems sooner or later.
I have a Wayne's brand 1/2 hp shallow-well jet pump with an attached pressure switch set at 30/50. Pumping water from an above ground swimming pool (used as water storage) The pressure tank is 44 gallons with a drawdown of 6.2 gallons. If I use the washing machine the pump gage drops to 30 psi (pump kick on) rather quickly but it does look like it's drawing 6 gallons. The water pressure filling the washing machine drops slightly at first. Then gradually the pressure continues to decrease filling the washing machine. Pressure at the pump now drops to 10 psi (sometimes lower) and water is barely trickling into the washing machine. I stop the washing machine from filling because I don't want the pump to be running at almost 0 psi. . No other water is being used in the home at this time. I can hear the pump start to draw more water beginning to fill the pressure tank. It would be another 30 mins. before the pressure switch reaches 50 psi to shut off the pump. That just seems too long to refill what may be only be 18-20 gallons of actually water going into the 44 gallon pressure tank.
The pump and tank are 3 months old and this issue seemed to start as soon as they were installed. My previous pump system was a Craftsman shallow well pump with a built in check valve. Which lasted 15 years or more.
I eventually want to pressure wash a roof which requires constant water pressure over a continuous 45 minute period. Would a CSV fix my issue?
Sounds like you are running out of water. But pumping from the above ground pool you should be able to see if you have water. A 44 gallon tank only holds about 11-12 gallons at 30/50, not 18-20, but more than 6 gallons of draw down. The CSV1A will hold 45 PSI constant to the pressure washer instead of letting the pump cycle on and off between 30 and 50. But if the pump cannot produce enough the pump will not cycle on/off as it should and the CSV won't be able to make it stay at 45. That pump should fill the 12 gallons in a 44 gallon size tank is less than 60 seconds, so something is wrong with the pump.
How much can this valve help pump life in a residential situation where you have a .5hp pump with a larger pressure tank, say 120Gallons. So, in this case, the pump should not start until a considerable amount of water is used. and when it starts it will run for sometime until all that 120 gallons is filled. Probably the advantage is maintaining the constant water pressure at the outlets. How should the valve be plumbed in such case.? Thank you
A 120 gallon pressure tank only holds 30 gallons of water. Every body thinks they have 120 gallons of water and that is not the case. It takes 75% air to push out the 30 gallons of water as needed. For in the house use only a pump will cycle less with a large tank. For outside use a pump will cycle much less with a CSV. Overall the CSV and small tank system will cycle less. And it doesn't really matter how many cycles a pump does for house use, as a house only uses maybe 300 gallons per day anyway. Using a CSV to eliminate cycling while showers and garden hoses are being used greatly reduces the number of cycles. So if it cycles every time you flush a toilet you are not hurting anything. I mean how many times a day can you flush a toilet anyway?
Unless you have diarrhea 😀 . I am just trying to understand if upgrading to csv will help more in my situation.I thought my tank could hold 100+ gallons. It's model HT-119B water worker.thank you for your reply.
LOL! Even then the pump will just stay on all day if you keep flushing the toilet every minute. The pump will not cycle as long as the toilet is flushed again within a minute or so. The only way to make the pump cycle is to wait at least two minutes between flushes. And then the pump is not cycling fast because you are waiting two minutes between cycles. Waiting only 1 minute between cycles and the pump just runs continuously until you stop flushing.
Yeah everybody thinks pressure tanks hold a lot of water, but they don't. Water comes from the well and pump, not the tank. The tank is only there to slow the number of cycles, and when you have a CSV to do that for you, a large tank is not needed.
my pressure switch is 20psi cut in 40psi cut off. should i used the CSV for 30psi?
With a small pressure tank, yes. With a large tank you would need the adjustable CSV1A so you could set it for 37-38 PSI.
Thanks.
I need use check valve the cycle valve
Where is the water heater in all of that drawing,, thank you for the explanation though
The water heater is after the CSV and pressure tank/pressure switch.
Doesn't the throttling cause a strain on the pump?
Just the opposite of what you think. Throttling a pump makes it draw lower amps, work easier, run cooler, and last longer.
What is part number and company name for your CSV? Thank you. Great video
Yu probably need the CSV1A. Bu t we have several models depending on the size of pump you have. You can call us for help at 806 885 4445. Thanks
can you install this CSV valve with the stuff you got on there now?
If you already have a good pressure tank and pressure switch, all you need is a Cycle Stop Valve.
thank you for answering me, thank!
Can you demonstrate this with 2500 gallon storage tank with booster pump before pressure tank sir plz?
The CSV principle is the same no mater if the pump gets its water from a city water line, well, lake, river, or storage tank.
sir i am technnician of water treatment plant industrial plant but i need 15000 reverse osmosis plant how can we install it which make parts . please imform me
We work with water treatment plants all the time. But you may have to call or email as we will need more information. Thanks 806-885-4445 or info@cyclestopvalves.com
I feel like I need to add more air to the bladder since my off time is less than 20 seconds. It does not wait until 40.
Off time should be irrelevant as the pump should stay off until you use water and never go off while you are using water. If not, you have a bad check valve or a hole in the pipe. If it is coming on before the pressure drops to 40 there maybe something wrong with the pressure switch. Having more air pressure in the tank than the start pressure for the pump will cause a water hammer and a momentary delay in water from the faucets.
How is this different from a standard pressure reducing valve?
A CSV is made similar to a pressure reducing valve. The CSV cannot completely close like a prv, which would deadhead and burn up the pump from zero flow. The CSV is designed to pass a specific amount of water even when in the closed position, to keep the pump cool and to slowly fill the pressure tank when no more water is being used. Who would have thought something so simple could solve so many problems?
@@cyclestopvalves8380 OK, thank you very much. I am a retired hydraulics engineer (oil hydraulics, not water) so I am interested in more specific details of this CSV operation, if you are willing to elaborate. Specifically, how do you keep the "self-flushing" seat itself from clogging in the valve closed position, like the holes in a shower head might with grit or other contamination? I am envisioning some ways this might be done, and realize this might be proprietary information, so understood if you can't go into too much detail here.
And also, does the spring chamber of the valve vent to atmosphere in some way so trapped water under pressure doesn't interfere with valve pressure setting?
@@crazy1gadgets1 Yes the spring chamber vents to atmosphere. The non-clogging bypass is so simple it will make your head hurt. it is explained here. cyclestopvalves.com/pages/basic-operation-of-a-cycle-stop-valve
@@cyclestopvalves8380 Very interesting. This all makes perfect sense. Similar contamination known as silting in many oil hydraulic valves is flushed out in similar ways. A very good solution. I shall have to try it on my pump application. Thank you very much!
why is the valve not made of brass ?
It use to be. But now thanks to your government, there is no such thing as brass. When they made us take all the lead out of brass it is longer any good. It turned into a Low lead alloy called Sibello, which is no where nearly as good as real brass. The low lead brass stuff now turns green like the Statue of Liberty. The green flakes off and clogs up the valve. It also has a tendency of developing pin holes in the castings. So about 50% of the ones that were cast, had to be melted down and done again, as 50% have pin holes in the casting. So we switched to Stainless Steel, which also has its problems, but nothing like the so called "low lead brass". All of this increased cost to all of use just to keep the government from having to accept blame for lead poisoning. Even solid lead pipes will not leach lead into the water as long as some government official doesn't pump acidic or caustic water down the lines like they did in Flint. The low lead laws make everything cost more and have less quality. We could all still have high quality and low cost brass components if the government would accept responsibility for their own actions, instead of trying to blame it on the pipe and fittings. Sorry for the rant. But you can thank your government for not having good quality and low cost brass available anymore.
i agree with you, the USA gov full of worthless paychecks. we the people are at fault we need involve in GOV town state fed, swindled and poisoned by all the moron politicians do.
some are, the better ones anyways, and now they are lead free brass. they are just more expensive because it is harder metal and more difficult to machine. the company I work for uses exclusively lead free brass because its just a better product than plastic or those other alloys
thanks. i believed ''cast, not machined?
Can it be use for irrigation?
Yes the CSV can be used with a pump start relay instead of a pressure tank and will work fine on a straight irrigation system.
@@cyclestopvalves8380 okay so cabln use without pressure tank?
I got a 40/60 pressure switch. So I need the cycle stop volve of 50 right?
@@vegitoblue7908 If you do not have a pressure tank, then you do not need a pressure switch. Just turn the pump on with the breaker or use a pump start relay in an irrigation control box and do away with the pressure switch. Even without a pressure tank and pressure switch the CSV will regulate the pressure to 50 PSI even as irrigation zone sizes vary from 1 to 25 GPM.
@@cyclestopvalves8380 thank you sir. You are very helpful
i installed this system and now it turns the pump on and off very often, this is not normal for the system.
The pump should turn on when you use water, and turn off when you stop using water. That is the job of the pressure switch, not the CSV. The pump should stay off if you are not using water, and if it doesn't you have a bad check valve, not a problem with the CSV. . But the CSV should keep the pump running continuously as long as you are using water. If the pump shuts off even once while the shower is on, even if you shower for a month, then the CSV is not working. If so, call us and we will figure out why and help you get it going. Cary
Sounds like to you just renamed a pressure regulator....so rather than turn on and off it has a few mins of lag time before it cuts pump on and off.
Lol! A pressure regulator would deadhead and burn up the pump in about 5 minutes. There is no "lag time" between on and off. The CSV only lets the pump shut off when you have completely stopped using any water. It does work sorta like a pressure regulator, it just makes sure there is always sufficient flow to keep the pump/motor cool. A little change to a pressure regulator makes all the difference.
Only 30 lbs pressure in the tank when drained and power off.
With a 40/60 switch that is about right. 35-38 would be perfect, but 30 is not worth worrying about.
Misleading. Showers are only occasional use. Washing hands and flushing toilets and getting a glass of water and rinsing a dish are more frequent uses. You usually use water about 20 times before a pressure tank cycles even once.
If any thing we said was "misleading" we wouldn't still be in business some 30+ years later. If with a big pressure tank you can use 20 things before the pump comes on, using a CSV with a small tank will save that many cycles during three showers or a sprinkler in the yard on for an hour or so. Although you can use a CSV with any size tank and have both 20 uses before the pump comes and AND no cycling for longer uses, the larger tank is still a waste of money and space.
People just do your own research on how this work