Just wanted you to know I binged these videos after my wife bought me ow for Christmas but before classes stared, thanks for putting me on the path to think about things instead of just doing the skills
Your wife is a very smart woman to get you an OW course. Now get her diving and you will have a buddy for life who really will watch out for you. Take are Jacob.
Kevin and i though about selling his shirts but we still do it just for fun and not profit. If I'm still doing this in a few years maybe we will 'sell out' to buy new scuba toys, but not yet. Kevin's wife actually made these shirts for us to stop Kevin complaining about my shirt picks and to reduce video piracy. Thanks for watching Bill.
Hey Alec (and Kevin), I just wanted to say in the last week I've learned so very much from your channel just binge watching your videos and taking notes. I honestly feel like you offer hundreds if not thousands of dollars in knowledge to us all on the RUclips scuba community. Your youtube channel could almost qualify as a diving certification if you ask me 😎. I've been diving for over 10 years and thought I knew a lot but your great explanations and tech demos have taught me so much so quickly that applying what i've learned from you in such a short time has allowed me to utilize my equipment better and even more safely which has helped me become improve as a diver in such a short period of time. Thank you for taking the time and bringing this information to all of us.
Very much appreciated SB. It's rare I (ok Kevin too), get such positive feedback on our work. Glad you pickup up lots of new ideas and can show off at the next club meeting! It's OK not to tell your dive buddies how you got so smart. Let's keep this between us. Take care and safe diving my friend.
Brass lasts almost forever in salt water, much longer than stainless steel. Your 1st stage is primarily brass with a chrome coating for looks. Ever wonder why brass artifacts from hundred year old ships are still intact? Brass does not rust like steel or oxidize like aluminum. That's my point, i like brass because it lasts. Thanks Adam.
Really like that improvement over the old style finger real. My first finger real almost cut my finger do to the plastic that they use and the great quality control lol. I’ll have to get one of those Thanks
I love watching your videos about vintage gear. I'm a graphic artist and diver of over 35 years. I started recreating in detail some of the logos of vintage gear. Stickers that can replace worn-out ones like U.S. Diver 1970. I would love to create more with someone's help like you.
I know my vintage friends still need replacement stickers/labels for some gear. I sold off all my vintage items, took 5 years, so I have nothing you can work from. Maybe contact my buddy Rob to see if he needs more made up. He has some on his website, take a look: www.thescubamuseum.com/Online%20Store/onlinestore.htm#!/Decals/c/20208388 Thanks and good luck Thomas.
Hi Alec! Another great and fun video once again. For a next upload, would be nice to hear your thoughts on sidemount configuration. Just an idea :) Keep the great videos coming! Best,
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter That would be a good video. :) But please Alec, if you are not a SM diver right now (not saying otherwise, I don’t know, just saying if you’re not), please do some serious research first before making the video. SM is not supposed to be standardized or set in stone as in “configuration” or methodology. The reason why SM is so popular is exactly due to its seemingly endless flexibility. For technical work, it is probably the safest and most manageable setup you can use because everything is movable, interchangeable, easily reachable and workable.
I use the finger reals all the time up north in Seattle area, that would be a great addition to my tool box for search for objects that people drop in the cloudy water. Also something to follow if circling to find an object in a radious form the point of the drop zone from the surface, if possible could you send me the link to get one, thanks
Hello Alec, TYVM for all your vids and tech tips. I have watched HOURS of them! I have a question you might do a vid on please. I use a Dive rite Trans Pac BC, could you do a Tech Tip on how to PROPERLY maintain this BC and how often, including flushing it out, replacing any diaphragms etc. Because I have had a problem staying down a time or two and thought maybe it is "trapping", or "holding" air somehow. It is still in great condition, as the straps are still "stiff" THANK YOU VERY MUCH BILL HOY subscriber and regular follower.
I would like to take requests but with the pandemic, Kevin and I are releasing bi-weekly and we have 3 months ready for release. You may be an old guy like me before I could get one done properly. My friend Mark at Simply Scuba (tell him I say Hi), may do a review on this subject in a more timely manner. Submit it to his RUclips channel as they have daily videos or bring it up in their podcast. Much appreciate your support and glad you enjoy my rants.
The one disadvantage of the aluminum spools is that they are terribly negative, so if you let go it will go straight to the bottom before you can say "Oh crap." Thankfully Apeks does tie the line to the spool so you can retrieve it without having to go down to the bottom.
The Apeks spool was a nice idea for strength but, as others have said, drop it and it was gone; a delrin-bodied spool would sink more slowly and give you a chance to catch it if dropped. I've never seen a delrin spool broken by an impact. I don't discount it happening but it wouldn't eject the line as described. Normally a spool is held between thumb and forefinger when deploying a marker buoy, the dished in sides of the Apeks made that harder to do. Ironically, the bigger finger holes put the tips of your thumb and forefinger closer together bringing the rim of the spool closer to the web of your hand between thumb and forefinger, as well as closer to the sides of those digits. The dished exterior also did the same and the knurled rim tended to catch on the said web, especially when wearing bulky dry gloves. All in all the "improvements" in shape actually made the Apeks more awkward to use and more likely to snatch out of your hand or be inadvertently released. The extra weight of the metal body made them harder to deal with if you did drop them. I sold a few but, as I like to dive what I sell, I quickly realised their disadvantages outweighed any perceived advantage and I stopped stocking them.
Several comments have come up about dropping a reel which is valid but if the DSMB is deployed right, not likely. I have seen divers drop and lose forever: big/heavy dive knives, dive lights, reef sticks, cameras (big and small), snorkels (lots), weight belts (from the surface) and spear guns. It's up to the diver to keep control of their gear but even on land, I see folks drop & loose stuff all the time. It happens but for us divers, a chance to get new shiny stuff as a replacement. Thanks for the feedback and stay safe.
Not very well. The hole is a smaller diameter and if your up north (above Ohio!), it's very tight with a 7mm or dry suit glove on. Enjoy your southern diving Erikk.
Look back as I there are a few videos on dive computers, Air Integrated and wireless connected. I have a new one coming out next on $300 vs $2,000 computers.
Features, algorithms, battery life, size. Those are the most common differences. As technology progresses, electronics get smarter and more advanced. In the 1960's they needed a room to fit a computer in, now it fits in the palm of your hand, is faster, and can do a helluva lot more.
They are made for DSMB's due to the thin line. They might work on surface floats but most of these use thicker line that floats. If you know the break strength of the reel line vs plastic line, it may work for you. A
1: The finger reel is not for “minimalists”. It is for SMB’s and penetration exploration. The only people who need a winding reel (the one with the handle y were describing) are divers who need them for either occupational work, surveys, or technical penetration dives. 2: Stainless Steel bolt snaps and hardware today are just as tough and long-lasting as brass. There are several different grades of SS, just like there’s many different grades of “aircraft aluminum”. If you have a choice between SS meant for diving and Brass, choose SS. 3: The plastic reels are better because the majority of the time they are neutral in the water, meaning if you accidentally drop them, they float in place. This is exactly the very reason they are popular with technical divers, and professional/occupational divers. Metal reels, including aluminum ones, sink, and that is when you lose them. 4: That plastic reel you showed is still perfect for use with a drysuit and drysuit gloves. The hole is big enough for your finger, especially when wearing drysuit gloves as they end up lower profile than neoprene gloves do. 5: You can easily get swivels for all lines. If you buy a plastic finger reel, and the line doesn’t come with a swivel, they’re stupid cheap (a few cents). Buy one, cut a meter-long piece of line (melt the ends) tie the swivel to one end, and the other end of the line on the reel to the other end. Done. Put a swivel on your plastic reel and you’ll be set.
I concur. Don't buy metal spools. They sink like rocks when you drop them. ABS or Delrin plastic are most neutrally buoyant. If your spool does go to the bottom, here is a neat trick to recover it: ruclips.net/video/mqGrjA5DmBw/видео.html (Diving Tips & Tricks: How to recover a dropped spool) In addition, tie swivel at the 15 foot safety stop!
Hello. Watched a lot of your stuff for education purposes. Now I'm learning the proper snorkeling technique. There's a lot of contradicting ideas. I'm personally convinced that if you dive with a snorkel you should avoid sambas and blackouts by doing this: 1. Spit the snorkel out when under the water to avoid uncontrolled air leak. 2. Rise to the top vertically or slightly face upwards. 3. Exhale slowly through mouth and breathe calmly for several times. 4. Only then purge the snorkel. Please, give your opinion. It would help a lot. Thank you. Cheers form Russia.
First off #3 says breathe then #4 says purge, is this backwards? If you follow the PADI Skin Diver manual for a snorkel dive, the diver surfaces face up, hand up, looking around. Purging the snorkel is either the blast method or exhale gently. Note the snorkel is in the mouth at all times. Hope this helps you have fun and stay warm my friend.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter No, it' not backwards. That's the whole point. A lot of people are arguing about this. And it would be great to hear your opinion. Here's the argument I found and that I agree with: 1. When the snorkel is left in the mouth while under water it increases additional chances for the water to leak in. Especially in case of samba or blackout. 2. Purging the snorkel requires additional effort. So, purging it right after the ascend can lead, again, to samba or blackout. So, the basic idea is to always dive and ascend to surface freediving style. P.S. It never came to my mind that PADI has an official manual for snorkeling. I'll go check it for mistakes. Just kiddin' :D
PADI standards have been updated to reflect freediving safety standards. Skin diver is now “Advanced Snorkelling” When doing a duck dive you remove the snorkel from your mouth and then when you surface you perform “recovery breathes” Breathe in normally and then exhale making a “paaa” sound. The snorkel is removed because it fills with water. Blocker snorkels can’t be equalised without exhaling. A person that exhales when duck diving or freediving shows the same signs of a blacked out diver. So we don’t exhale underwater.
It's good for spools to get more attention. That said, it is not a good idea to actually stick your finger in the spool. Gently grip the hole with your fingertips and let it unwind - you do not want to get your finger stuck in a hole. Grasp one side of the spool firmly to rewind it. And there are other techniques that work.
I'll tell you one other thing about that reel. It's the blue one, so it's got 45 metres of line on it. That's not actually the good thing; the good thing is that you won't have to unwind and cut off a bunch of that 45 metres to make it usable. They make the reels big enough to take the length of line you're buying and leave a nice lip so you can wind it without ending up with a bird's nest. And when you're done you can still get the end through the holes to tie it off. PS, you may need to publish a caveat that although the hole is indeed big enough to get your finger through, you would never of course do that when releasing a buoy.
@@timgosling6189 Yup. You buy a 30m spool from Apeks and you have 30m of usable line. You buy a 30m spool from pretty much any other manufacturer, and you need to cut 10-15m off, leaving you with a 15 or 20m spool. And @AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter, how is it confusing to mention that they come in different lengths? For those not confused by different sizes, and who can be trusted to buy t-shirts in the right size, they come in 15m (purple), 30m (green), 45m (blue), and 60m (black). They recently also released a 30m Halo version in orange which is great for very cold water use.
Yeah, its better sure, just forgott to mention One small detail, one costs 20 euros and the Apeks One costs from 75 euros to 100s. Besides Apeks and Aqualung that are pretty much same company are extremely good at marketing, their " super " balanced regulators are the best example, if you know what i mean 😄
Hey Antonio! If you're in a pinch with the 50-60 eur difference, there are Chinese copies of the Apeks reel that work same as the Apeks one, with the price of.. you guessed it - 20 eur :) By the way, Aircraft aluminum means that it is a "Dural" Aluminum, or more technically Al Mg alloy that is made for casting, with better physical properties (not that soft as a pure Aluminum).
Hi Alex I am a dinosaur diver like you started diving from a book 1967 Commercial diver thru the 70s Boat builder from then on (built the boat that found Franklin's shipwreck in the artic another story) Any how the subject is reels Back in the 70 s when ever we got a piece of new equipments it had to be tested in the Sarina river on a trip to the monarch in 9 knots of current We could have just taken the gas boat out into lake erie and tested it out but Every trip to the monarch ended with a trip to the strip club afterwards !. (I was barely old enough to get in the door I don't drink or smoke so I would sit with the guys sip a soda tip the performers and enjoy the show ! ) I have been to the monarch over 50 times Some times the vis is good other times you can only see a foot We get to the monarch the vis is a foot The guys are heading to the monarch Been there done that today I am going to navigate across the current to the channel marker in the center of the river I take our industrial reel 1000ft 750 lb line used for measuring pipe and surveying (30 lds) take a bearing from shore clip the reel on and head out The idea is to have absolutely no drift on the bottom 200 ft out you get past the debris and into undulating sand dunes 800 ft out I come across a excavator tire buried flush with the bottom 900 ft out I figure I must be getting close when I hear WOOP WOOP WOOP WOOP Holy crap steam boat ! So I go hand over hand as fast as I can back to the excavator tire dump my air and hang on (duals clipped the reel on for an anchor All the fish in the river are right beside me The WOOP WOOP WOOP WOOP Is getting louder and louder all of sudden a suction builds the school of gobies in front of my face a are gone! I can feel myself being lifted off the bottom the I am hit by the wash and blown flat face mask flooded then every thing went back to normal I could hear the str boat blow its whisle going round the bend The it was HOLY CRAP! The water is nominal 55 ft I didn't have time to reel the line in it was going up in an arch must have slid right by the keel If the prop got it instant Darwin award! So I blew myself up 10 ft off the bottom and the current took me into the bank with the line Have a great day
Greetings Sir Can you give us a review about the Ocean Reef full face mask. My friend has it and says some crazy things like it’s Ani-Fog 😒 And the second crazy thing is that he sees in 3D 😔 ( that clear ) I want a review from a man who tried almost every technique used in diving. Waiting for your response
I'd like to but finding one in a store is the problem. FFM's don't have anti-fog but use the incoming air to sweep across the inside glass, like a car defroster, to reduce fogging. Want to see a really cool FFM? Watch my Vintage Scuba on the Scubapro Visionair, S04E02 to see how FFM's started out and the anti-fog cleaning. You will enjoy it and learn more to tell your friend.
Mr. Peirce, enjoying and benefiting from your videos very much. I would like to offer something for your consideration regarding finger spools: If you put your finger in the spool, you will run the risk of your knuckle getting caught. This is of particular concern if you are using the spool to deploy a DSMB. An alternative technique is to pinch the center of the spool between your index finder and thumb. If you lose the grip, and consequently the spook, the line will remain close enough to recover.
Having shrink tubing on the end is nice to eliminate pull knot loops on the main loop. Definitely easier to feed and unfeed. Most finger spools having 50'-75' are just intended as smb ascent spools. They aren't to compete with 200' cave wreck spools.
Maybe but in the public's mind, aircraft metal is better than scuba metal, probably because more folks fly than dive. I wondered the same thing but those smart marketing types probably have a good reason but I like your idea Kevin.
Give the finger to your old plastic finger reel and say hello to the new Apex aluminum finger reel - you can really put your finger on it! (Did I miss my calling to work in advertising!?! Guess I better not quit my daytime job 🙂) I did enjoy your video though!
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter I like to speak to my tank while it's being filled. That way when I open the valve before a dive I hear "Don't forget your buddy check!" It's a great reminder.
Aircraft Aluminum???? I always bite my tongue, but I can't do it any longer! Anytime a product claims aircraft grade anything, it's pure hogwash. Aircraft will have various grades of aluminum throughout, depending on where and it's purpose. But most/all aircraft skins are made using 2024 aluminum which has excellent fatigue resistance, but actually very low corrosion resistance so it is coated with 1100 grade (it's called 2024ALCLAD) which is basically pure aluminum to give it corrosion protection. But when you scratch through that layer..... So why the heck would anyone think that is good for scuba? In salt water? By far the best aluminum to use would be any of the 5000 series because....... (insert drum roll)... they are marine grade! and have excellent corrosion resistance! So you gotta ask yourself, do I feel luckier in a boat or a plane when I'm on the ocean? Well do ya, punk? 🙂 ps. I built an airplane.
I know it's not a 100% accurate term but it has sadly become a term the majority understand and accept (in principle, your points are valid). As a kid in the early 1960's, steel tanks were all that was used. No one heard of aluminum scuba tanks as aluminum was used in airplanes (OK DC3 maybe but thats what we were told). Scuba tanks moved to aluminum when the price matched steel, maintenance was less, and the price matched steel. We can go on but I accept your facts, but read viewer comments to see how little divers know about the workings of the gear we all use. Sometimes it's scary. Thanks for the feedback and for watching. A
Most divers call them "spools," a "reel" would be something with a crank winding mechanism like a fishing rod and reel 🎣 Never had a "plastic" delrin spool break on me but I can guarantee if you step on or drop a cylinder on an aluminum one it will deform and bend. You can buy these aluminum spools all day online from China for $10-$15...no need to pay $30-$40 for an Apeks branded one.
Divers can buy from anywhere they like but I found North American made products better overall. Anyone can buy cheaper and that is what you get, not a good idea if your life is on the line in a deep cave or wreck.
Apeks is made in the U.K. not North America. Cheaper doesn’t always mean less quality, Asian made products are equally as good as western made with some exceptions. Living in Asia we have even cheaper access to them here. They are good.
@@Obutom Plus, most "American" products are made in China, Taiwan, Thailand, Mexico, Brasil, etc. Also, there isn't much that can go wrong with a spool, even a very cheap one. Just make sure the line is tied off at the other end so that when you drop it, you can reel it back in. The Apeks Lifeline spools are a luxury product. They're durable, well thought out, beautifully machined spools with excellent features and awesome line choices. The orange, flat Edelrid line spools up very compact, leaving plenty of room to thread through the holes in the side of the spool. But none of that is absolutely necessary. A cheap overspun Delrin spool will do the same trick, you just need to remove about 40-50% of the line, and do some preparation. That said, I have two Apeks Lifeline spools (15m & 30m Halo), and considering buying a third (60m). They make your underwater life easier.
Just wanted you to know I binged these videos after my wife bought me ow for Christmas but before classes stared, thanks for putting me on the path to think about things instead of just doing the skills
Same here. I respect Alec's judgement and admire his experience. He helped me make good choices in buying my dive gear when I got back into diving.
Your wife is a very smart woman to get you an OW course. Now get her diving and you will have a buddy for life who really will watch out for you. Take are Jacob.
I see the logic. Hey, when can we fans get the official Alex Peirce polo shirts?
Kevin and i though about selling his shirts but we still do it just for fun and not profit. If I'm still doing this in a few years maybe we will 'sell out' to buy new scuba toys, but not yet. Kevin's wife actually made these shirts for us to stop Kevin complaining about my shirt picks and to reduce video piracy. Thanks for watching Bill.
Yes! Merch please 🙏
Hey Alec (and Kevin), I just wanted to say in the last week I've learned so very much from your channel just binge watching your videos and taking notes. I honestly feel like you offer hundreds if not thousands of dollars in knowledge to us all on the RUclips scuba community. Your youtube channel could almost qualify as a diving certification if you ask me 😎. I've been diving for over 10 years and thought I knew a lot but your great explanations and tech demos have taught me so much so quickly that applying what i've learned from you in such a short time has allowed me to utilize my equipment better and even more safely which has helped me become improve as a diver in such a short period of time. Thank you for taking the time and bringing this information to all of us.
Very much appreciated SB. It's rare I (ok Kevin too), get such positive feedback on our work. Glad you pickup up lots of new ideas and can show off at the next club meeting! It's OK not to tell your dive buddies how you got so smart. Let's keep this between us. Take care and safe diving my friend.
As a real newbie, these videos are a godsend! Thank you Alec!
Glad you like them!
Thanks for the review. Just curious about the brass clip that you wish it had. What makes the brass one more preferred?
Brass lasts almost forever in salt water, much longer than stainless steel. Your 1st stage is primarily brass with a chrome coating for looks. Ever wonder why brass artifacts from hundred year old ships are still intact? Brass does not rust like steel or oxidize like aluminum. That's my point, i like brass because it lasts. Thanks Adam.
Really like that improvement over the old style finger real. My first finger real almost cut my finger do to the plastic that they use and the great quality control lol. I’ll have to get one of those
Thanks
I believe you will like the grip and new features Will. Thanks for watching.
In the uk we call them finger spool, I use one. Easy to use
Thanks for the info sir. Hope you are back to diving in the UK.
Entertaining and informative as all ways. Enjoy your down to earth style. Keep up the good work. Regards from South Africa.👌
Thanks, will do!
Hey Alex, great job and awesome tips as usual!!!!!!!
Hey, thanks George.
I love watching your videos about vintage gear. I'm a graphic artist and diver of over 35 years. I started recreating in detail some of the logos of vintage gear. Stickers that can replace worn-out ones like U.S. Diver 1970. I would love to create more with someone's help like you.
I know my vintage friends still need replacement stickers/labels for some gear. I sold off all my vintage items, took 5 years, so I have nothing you can work from. Maybe contact my buddy Rob to see if he needs more made up. He has some on his website, take a look: www.thescubamuseum.com/Online%20Store/onlinestore.htm#!/Decals/c/20208388
Thanks and good luck Thomas.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter hello alec I need help with a champion canon speargun mechanism. How can I contact u directly ?
I was just looking online to buy my first reel…perfect timing !
Glad you found something to help you before buying.
Thanks fir the review
No problem 👍
Hi Alec!
Another great and fun video once again.
For a next upload, would be nice to hear your thoughts on sidemount configuration. Just an idea :)
Keep the great videos coming!
Best,
Thanks for the idea! I'll add it to my future ideas list.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter That would be a good video. :) But please Alec, if you are not a SM diver right now (not saying otherwise, I don’t know, just saying if you’re not), please do some serious research first before making the video. SM is not supposed to be standardized or set in stone as in “configuration” or methodology. The reason why SM is so popular is exactly due to its seemingly endless flexibility. For technical work, it is probably the safest and most manageable setup you can use because everything is movable, interchangeable, easily reachable and workable.
I use the finger reals all the time up north in Seattle area, that would be a great addition to my tool box for search for objects that people drop in the cloudy water. Also something to follow if circling to find an object in a radious form the point of the drop zone from the surface, if possible could you send me the link to get one, thanks
They are a good tool in search and rescue or as I like to call it, a treasure dive of lost stuff! Thanks for watching Chris.
Hello Alec, TYVM for all your vids and tech tips. I have watched HOURS of them! I have a question you might do a vid on please.
I use a Dive rite Trans Pac BC, could you do a Tech Tip on how to PROPERLY maintain this BC and how often, including flushing it out, replacing any diaphragms etc. Because I have had a problem staying down a time or two and thought maybe it is "trapping", or "holding" air somehow. It is still in great condition, as the straps are still "stiff"
THANK YOU VERY MUCH
BILL HOY subscriber and regular follower.
I would like to take requests but with the pandemic, Kevin and I are releasing bi-weekly and we have 3 months ready for release. You may be an old guy like me before I could get one done properly. My friend Mark at Simply Scuba (tell him I say Hi), may do a review on this subject in a more timely manner. Submit it to his RUclips channel as they have daily videos or bring it up in their podcast. Much appreciate your support and glad you enjoy my rants.
You lost me when you said "dry suit". Could you elaborate, please? - Joe (from Florida) 😂😂😂😉
Ha Ha, warm water divers are funny! Try Ice Diving to cool off! Thanks Joe.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter I may have to try that. Do dry suits come in shorties? 🤔
The one disadvantage of the aluminum spools is that they are terribly negative, so if you let go it will go straight to the bottom before you can say "Oh crap." Thankfully Apeks does tie the line to the spool so you can retrieve it without having to go down to the bottom.
For sure, I don't like to pay twice for the same item, so keep it secure. Thanks Peg.
The Apeks spool was a nice idea for strength but, as others have said, drop it and it was gone; a delrin-bodied spool would sink more slowly and give you a chance to catch it if dropped. I've never seen a delrin spool broken by an impact. I don't discount it happening but it wouldn't eject the line as described.
Normally a spool is held between thumb and forefinger when deploying a marker buoy, the dished in sides of the Apeks made that harder to do. Ironically, the bigger finger holes put the tips of your thumb and forefinger closer together bringing the rim of the spool closer to the web of your hand between thumb and forefinger, as well as closer to the sides of those digits. The dished exterior also did the same and the knurled rim tended to catch on the said web, especially when wearing bulky dry gloves.
All in all the "improvements" in shape actually made the Apeks more awkward to use and more likely to snatch out of your hand or be inadvertently released. The extra weight of the metal body made them harder to deal with if you did drop them.
I sold a few but, as I like to dive what I sell, I quickly realised their disadvantages outweighed any perceived advantage and I stopped stocking them.
Several comments have come up about dropping a reel which is valid but if the DSMB is deployed right, not likely. I have seen divers drop and lose forever: big/heavy dive knives, dive lights, reef sticks, cameras (big and small), snorkels (lots), weight belts (from the surface) and spear guns. It's up to the diver to keep control of their gear but even on land, I see folks drop & loose stuff all the time. It happens but for us divers, a chance to get new shiny stuff as a replacement. Thanks for the feedback and stay safe.
Being from Texas, I am not a "real diver" LOL, but the first thing I thought of was, "Do gloves work wit that?" (the black one, that is.)
Great video!
Not very well. The hole is a smaller diameter and if your up north (above Ohio!), it's very tight with a 7mm or dry suit glove on. Enjoy your southern diving Erikk.
You just clamp it from the side. It should never actually put a finger through the spool. Too many bad things can happen.
@@Teampegleg Ok, that makes sense. "Degloving" and all...the medical term that is.
Thank you
You're welcome
Love your channel and tips. But why would you want a serrated edge on a spool?
For grip. With cold hands it will slip while unwinding. The edges let you grip it to stop and keep tension on the line.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter thanks, I was thinking it was serrated like a knife.
@@AddAdventures serrated is the wrong term. It's knurled.
Great video Alec
Which is the difference between an older dive computer like a suunto solution and the newest ?
Good question, my next video is on dive computers, basic vs expensive so it should have ideas to help you decide.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter when you will make a video about computers, can you also explain about best transmitter?
Look back as I there are a few videos on dive computers, Air Integrated and wireless connected. I have a new one coming out next on $300 vs $2,000 computers.
Features, algorithms, battery life, size. Those are the most common differences.
As technology progresses, electronics get smarter and more advanced. In the 1960's they needed a room to fit a computer in, now it fits in the palm of your hand, is faster, and can do a helluva lot more.
Can these be used to attach to scuba flag floats? Are the lines too thin for that?
They are made for DSMB's due to the thin line. They might work on surface floats but most of these use thicker line that floats. If you know the break strength of the reel line vs plastic line, it may work for you.
A
1: The finger reel is not for “minimalists”. It is for SMB’s and penetration exploration. The only people who need a winding reel (the one with the handle y were describing) are divers who need them for either occupational work, surveys, or technical penetration dives. 2: Stainless Steel bolt snaps and hardware today are just as tough and long-lasting as brass. There are several different grades of SS, just like there’s many different grades of “aircraft aluminum”. If you have a choice between SS meant for diving and Brass, choose SS. 3: The plastic reels are better because the majority of the time they are neutral in the water, meaning if you accidentally drop them, they float in place. This is exactly the very reason they are popular with technical divers, and professional/occupational divers. Metal reels, including aluminum ones, sink, and that is when you lose them. 4: That plastic reel you showed is still perfect for use with a drysuit and drysuit gloves. The hole is big enough for your finger, especially when wearing drysuit gloves as they end up lower profile than neoprene gloves do. 5: You can easily get swivels for all lines. If you buy a plastic finger reel, and the line doesn’t come with a swivel, they’re stupid cheap (a few cents). Buy one, cut a meter-long piece of line (melt the ends) tie the swivel to one end, and the other end of the line on the reel to the other end. Done. Put a swivel on your plastic reel and you’ll be set.
I concur. Don't buy metal spools. They sink like rocks when you drop them. ABS or Delrin plastic are most neutrally buoyant. If your spool does go to the bottom, here is a neat trick to recover it:
ruclips.net/video/mqGrjA5DmBw/видео.html
(Diving Tips & Tricks: How to recover a dropped spool)
In addition, tie swivel at the 15 foot safety stop!
Good points PDC, thanks for sharing your experiences with others.
Awesome video. You got a like from me. Ty.
Much appreciated!
Hello. Watched a lot of your stuff for education purposes.
Now I'm learning the proper snorkeling technique.
There's a lot of contradicting ideas.
I'm personally convinced that if you dive with a snorkel you should avoid sambas and blackouts by doing this:
1. Spit the snorkel out when under the water to avoid uncontrolled air leak.
2. Rise to the top vertically or slightly face upwards.
3. Exhale slowly through mouth and breathe calmly for several times.
4. Only then purge the snorkel.
Please, give your opinion. It would help a lot.
Thank you. Cheers form Russia.
First off #3 says breathe then #4 says purge, is this backwards?
If you follow the PADI Skin Diver manual for a snorkel dive, the diver surfaces face up, hand up, looking around. Purging the snorkel is either the blast method or exhale gently. Note the snorkel is in the mouth at all times. Hope this helps you have fun and stay warm my friend.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter
No, it' not backwards. That's the whole point.
A lot of people are arguing about this. And it would be great to hear your opinion.
Here's the argument I found and that I agree with:
1. When the snorkel is left in the mouth while under water
it increases additional chances for the water to leak in.
Especially in case of samba or blackout.
2. Purging the snorkel requires additional effort.
So, purging it right after the ascend can lead, again, to samba or blackout.
So, the basic idea is to always dive and ascend to surface freediving style.
P.S.
It never came to my mind that PADI has an official manual for snorkeling.
I'll go check it for mistakes. Just kiddin'
:D
I've just found out that what I'm doing appears to be skin diving and not snorkling.
PADI standards have been updated to reflect freediving safety standards. Skin diver is now “Advanced Snorkelling”
When doing a duck dive you remove the snorkel from your mouth and then when you surface you perform “recovery breathes”
Breathe in normally and then exhale making a “paaa” sound.
The snorkel is removed because it fills with water. Blocker snorkels can’t be equalised without exhaling.
A person that exhales when duck diving or freediving shows the same signs of a blacked out diver. So we don’t exhale underwater.
@@Obutom
That was exactly my thinking!
Thanks)
It's good for spools to get more attention. That said, it is not a good idea to actually stick your finger in the spool. Gently grip the hole with your fingertips and let it unwind - you do not want to get your finger stuck in a hole.
Grasp one side of the spool firmly to rewind it.
And there are other techniques that work.
Thanks for the tip sir. Hope others will read it too.
"I'm Mary Poppins, y'all!"
I'll tell you one other thing about that reel. It's the blue one, so it's got 45 metres of line on it. That's not actually the good thing; the good thing is that you won't have to unwind and cut off a bunch of that 45 metres to make it usable. They make the reels big enough to take the length of line you're buying and leave a nice lip so you can wind it without ending up with a bird's nest. And when you're done you can still get the end through the holes to tie it off.
PS, you may need to publish a caveat that although the hole is indeed big enough to get your finger through, you would never of course do that when releasing a buoy.
They are colour coded by length but the store only had blue so lets not confuse divers with things they cannot see. Appreciate the feedback Tim.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter I have a few of these from 30 metres up. The point is none of them is over-filled and they are ready to go.
@@timgosling6189 Yup. You buy a 30m spool from Apeks and you have 30m of usable line. You buy a 30m spool from pretty much any other manufacturer, and you need to cut 10-15m off, leaving you with a 15 or 20m spool.
And @AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter, how is it confusing to mention that they come in different lengths?
For those not confused by different sizes, and who can be trusted to buy t-shirts in the right size, they come in 15m (purple), 30m (green), 45m (blue), and 60m (black). They recently also released a 30m Halo version in orange which is great for very cold water use.
Yeah, its better sure, just forgott to mention One small detail, one costs 20 euros and the Apeks One costs from 75 euros to 100s. Besides Apeks and Aqualung that are pretty much same company are extremely good at marketing, their " super " balanced regulators are the best example, if you know what i mean 😄
Thanks for sharing and I do.
A.
Hey Antonio! If you're in a pinch with the 50-60 eur difference, there are Chinese copies of the Apeks reel that work same as the Apeks one, with the price of.. you guessed it - 20 eur :)
By the way, Aircraft aluminum means that it is a "Dural" Aluminum, or more technically Al Mg alloy that is made for casting, with better physical properties (not that soft as a pure Aluminum).
Hi Alex I am a dinosaur diver like you started diving from a book 1967
Commercial diver thru the 70s
Boat builder from then on
(built the boat that found Franklin's shipwreck in the artic another story)
Any how the subject is reels
Back in the 70 s when ever we got a piece of new equipments it had to be tested in the Sarina river on a trip to the monarch in 9 knots of current
We could have just taken the gas boat out into lake erie and tested it out but
Every trip to the monarch ended with a trip to the strip club afterwards !.
(I was barely old enough to get in the door I don't drink or smoke so I would sit with the guys sip a soda tip the performers and enjoy the show ! )
I have been to the monarch over 50 times
Some times the vis is good other times you can only see a foot
We get to the monarch the vis is a foot
The guys are heading to the monarch
Been there done that today I am going to navigate across the current to the channel marker in the center of the river
I take our industrial reel 1000ft 750 lb line used for measuring pipe and surveying (30 lds) take a bearing from shore clip the reel on and head out
The idea is to have absolutely no drift on the bottom
200 ft out you get past the debris and into undulating sand dunes 800 ft out I come across a excavator tire buried flush with the bottom
900 ft out I figure I must be getting close when I hear WOOP WOOP WOOP WOOP
Holy crap steam boat !
So I go hand over hand as fast as I can back to the excavator tire dump my air and hang on (duals clipped the reel on for an anchor
All the fish in the river are right beside me
The WOOP WOOP WOOP WOOP Is getting louder and louder all of sudden a suction builds the school of gobies in front of my face a are gone!
I can feel myself being lifted off the bottom the I am hit by the wash and blown flat face mask flooded then every thing went back to normal I could hear the str boat blow its whisle going round the bend
The it was HOLY CRAP!
The water is nominal 55 ft I didn't have time to reel the line in it was going up in an arch must have slid right by the keel
If the prop got it instant Darwin award!
So I blew myself up 10 ft off the bottom and the current took me into the bank with the line
Have a great day
Wow Carl. Not only are you a certified stone age diver but LUCKY too. Great dive story and too bad about the strippers!
And this has what to do with 100 ft finger spools?
Greetings Sir
Can you give us a review about the Ocean Reef full face mask.
My friend has it and says some crazy things like it’s Ani-Fog 😒
And the second crazy thing is that he sees in 3D 😔 ( that clear )
I want a review from a man who tried almost every technique used in diving.
Waiting for your response
I'd like to but finding one in a store is the problem. FFM's don't have anti-fog but use the incoming air to sweep across the inside glass, like a car defroster, to reduce fogging. Want to see a really cool FFM? Watch my Vintage Scuba on the Scubapro Visionair, S04E02 to see how FFM's started out and the anti-fog cleaning. You will enjoy it and learn more to tell your friend.
Mr. Peirce, enjoying and benefiting from your videos very much.
I would like to offer something for your consideration regarding finger spools:
If you put your finger in the spool, you will run the risk of your knuckle getting caught. This is of particular concern if you are using the spool to deploy a DSMB.
An alternative technique is to pinch the center of the spool between your index finder and thumb. If you lose the grip, and consequently the spook, the line will remain close enough to recover.
Good tip, thanks for sharing.
A
Having shrink tubing on the end is nice to eliminate pull knot loops on the main loop. Definitely easier to feed and unfeed. Most finger spools having 50'-75' are just intended as smb ascent spools. They aren't to compete with 200' cave wreck spools.
Aircraft grade aluminum is often 6061T6, the same thing SCUBA tanks are made of, so maybe they should call it SCUBA tank grade aluminum :-)
Maybe but in the public's mind, aircraft metal is better than scuba metal, probably because more folks fly than dive. I wondered the same thing but those smart marketing types probably have a good reason but I like your idea Kevin.
Real, reel divers
Good one.
Give the finger to your old plastic finger reel and say hello to the new Apex aluminum finger reel - you can really put your finger on it! (Did I miss my calling to work in advertising!?! Guess I better not quit my daytime job 🙂) I did enjoy your video though!
You should be in advertising, that's good Scott.
When I buy a line, I'll pay for one end and I expect to get the other end for free.
I also want a free receipt with every purchase.
Ha and free air with every fill?
A.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter I like to speak to my tank while it's being filled. That way when I open the valve before a dive I hear "Don't forget your buddy check!" It's a great reminder.
Great video thx. What’s up with the hot girls video in your comments. Of course I did not click on it LOL...
Everyone is welcome to comment if they are respectful even hot girls. Did I miss a link?
Aircraft Aluminum???? I always bite my tongue, but I can't do it any longer! Anytime a product claims aircraft grade anything, it's pure hogwash. Aircraft will have various grades of aluminum throughout, depending on where and it's purpose. But most/all aircraft skins are made using 2024 aluminum which has excellent fatigue resistance, but actually very low corrosion resistance so it is coated with 1100 grade (it's called 2024ALCLAD) which is basically pure aluminum to give it corrosion protection. But when you scratch through that layer..... So why the heck would anyone think that is good for scuba? In salt water?
By far the best aluminum to use would be any of the 5000 series because....... (insert drum roll)... they are marine grade! and have excellent corrosion resistance!
So you gotta ask yourself, do I feel luckier in a boat or a plane when I'm on the ocean?
Well do ya, punk? 🙂
ps. I built an airplane.
I know it's not a 100% accurate term but it has sadly become a term the majority understand and accept (in principle, your points are valid). As a kid in the early 1960's, steel tanks were all that was used. No one heard of aluminum scuba tanks as aluminum was used in airplanes (OK DC3 maybe but thats what we were told). Scuba tanks moved to aluminum when the price matched steel, maintenance was less, and the price matched steel. We can go on but I accept your facts, but read viewer comments to see how little divers know about the workings of the gear we all use. Sometimes it's scary. Thanks for the feedback and for watching.
A
Most divers call them "spools," a "reel" would be something with a crank winding mechanism like a fishing rod and reel 🎣 Never had a "plastic" delrin spool break on me but I can guarantee if you step on or drop a cylinder on an aluminum one it will deform and bend. You can buy these aluminum spools all day online from China for $10-$15...no need to pay $30-$40 for an Apeks branded one.
Divers can buy from anywhere they like but I found North American made products better overall. Anyone can buy cheaper and that is what you get, not a good idea if your life is on the line in a deep cave or wreck.
Why buy anything from China.
Apeks is made in the U.K. not North America.
Cheaper doesn’t always mean less quality, Asian made products are equally as good as western made with some exceptions.
Living in Asia we have even cheaper access to them here. They are good.
@@Obutom Plus, most "American" products are made in China, Taiwan, Thailand, Mexico, Brasil, etc.
Also, there isn't much that can go wrong with a spool, even a very cheap one. Just make sure the line is tied off at the other end so that when you drop it, you can reel it back in.
The Apeks Lifeline spools are a luxury product. They're durable, well thought out, beautifully machined spools with excellent features and awesome line choices. The orange, flat Edelrid line spools up very compact, leaving plenty of room to thread through the holes in the side of the spool. But none of that is absolutely necessary.
A cheap overspun Delrin spool will do the same trick, you just need to remove about 40-50% of the line, and do some preparation.
That said, I have two Apeks Lifeline spools (15m & 30m Halo), and considering buying a third (60m). They make your underwater life easier.