Mighty Max Ep. 07: How to Narrow a Ford Mustang Axle Using an External Jig. Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Mankandy builds an external jig to help narrow the V8 Ford Mustang axle for his Wife's Mighty Max.
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Why couldn't you put another horizontal brace or angled brace a little bit further down from where you cut the angle iron as to avoid hitting the pumpkin or yoke?
Angled would have been a really good idea and may have prevented the movement I experienced. I just didn't think of it. I just knew I wanted the axle to rotate unobstructed.
Garage Fab I understand it completely, I always do something and then think of how I could have made it different in the end.
As a retired mechanical engineer, with a custom truck fab as my new daily reason for life, I want to express my deepest appreciation for your work on RUclips. Your teaching technique is without equal. You are obviously a man of conscious and integrity. The production quality is amazing and a pure joy to watch! Please keep moving forward, and thank you 👍💪😎
Thank you, Rick! 🙏 I’ve got a wall of fame currently under construction for the select few comments that hit me in the feels and provide some much needed motivation to keep on going. Yours will certainly have a spot. The amount of effort RUclips has required took me by surprise, so it’s nice to hear my energy hasn’t been wasted. Thank you again.
I've found that large diameter hose clamps work really well for butt welding tubes together, using a similar setup to your angle cradle.
I think I can picture it!
Man you make it look easy. Nice work!!
We don’t even know if it works yet! 😂
It looked as if u did leave a gap between parent metal and sister metal ..pro tip I remember always make the gap at the bottom the same width as your weld wire on a mig or tig unless it's aluminum......this gives a nice deep full depth weld as u pretty much can't weld inside the pipe ...your could do this with a very light root weld also ....this fully depends on your skill level and your machine and if your fussed on leaving some external profile to counter instead
Well anything that involves skill is not in my wheel house. 😏 I did not leave any gaps, however my bevels extend the entire thickness of a material. Where the two pieces touch is only a very thin bit of material. There’s often what looks like a small weld bead on the other side.
@@GarageFab sounds like your skill has it on point if your seeing a profile inside the pipe 🤘🤘😎
Huh, huh, you said. " Valley of the Cradle" and
"penetration" ! 😂
Ew.
SMOG!! That's a word I don't hear since moving from Vegas.
Must be NICE!!! Maybe I should just register my toys at your address. 🤔
Bet its not as worse as having to deal with California smog lmao...
No doubt!! I couldn't be a car enthusiast in CA. I'd have to take up knitting. (Though I'm sure yarn is known to the state of California to cause cancer.)
@@GarageFab luckily I live in a smog one time county. Only buying or selling needs a smog..... atleast for now. Hopefully soon get outta here soon
Why the fuck aren’t you up at 1mill plus views yet. I love your videos! Your voice is easy to listen too and I actually like watching them from the beginning to end. Keep up the amazing work!
I'm trying, Charles I'm trying!!! Perhaps my videos aren't sharable enough yet. Maybe if I weld naked I'll finally get a viral video.
Thank you for the kind words, Brother!
Cool video
Thank you! 🙌
Did you just tell the guys who are cutting and re splining axles to cut off the exact amount you cut out of the housing?
Yes! That is correct.
Would I be able to use the mustang rear end as is if I don't care about big rims ?
Hey Emilio! What are you using the Mustang axle on? Regardless of wheel size, the Mustang axle is pretty wide. I’ll assume you also have a Mighty Max. If so, the factory truck axle is 55 inches wide. The Mustang axle could be anywhere from 57 to 60 inches wide depending in the year.
So unless your lifting your truck and you don’t mind the wheels sticking out a few inches on each side, you’ll probably want to shorten it a little.
Keep an eye out for 5 lug Toyota trucks 1995 or older. They have the same width (55 inch) axles as the Mighty Max. 👍
@@GarageFab I want to do a wide body I want to replicate the n74 hyundai.am I better off just using a toyta rear end ?
👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽
You been getting busy with these videos! Thank you for your time my friend! 🙏
Did you just say "Right Meow"?
😂
It's a ford 8.8
Okay, I'm still watching your videos. Although I did watch two cats playing in the snow videos but what am I doing? I have a lot of projects to do I mean I have a date to go on. Okay alright I'm a loser. Nice video!
Why did you cut the axle tubes in the center instead of cutting the tubes out if the pumpkin? Yes you have to drill out the rosette welds, but this way your inserting your tube back into the pumpkin and not relying on a butt weld in the center of tube.
I simply don’t have the machinery in my garage for that kind of work. Even assuming I could completely remove the plug welds, the tubes don’t just fall out. A heavy duty press is usually required for both removal and assembly. I don’t have a press and most of my target audience doesn’t either. Cutting the tube not only makes it possible, but gives some ability to ensure straightness without a jig. I would not trust the press fit alone to provide the accuracy the bearings require. The factory inserts the tubes into the diff with precision machinery, which again, I don’t have.
Lastly, though I’m more than satisfied with the quality of welds, this axle in particular will be trussed in the next couple of episodes to prevent axle tube bending due to the less than ideal mounting location of the load bearing link bars.
Cheers!
Great video as always you always explain everything so well and I appreciate your time 🙏
Thank you! I appreciate your attention!
Got an 87 Mighty as well. Your just the motivation I need. Let the building began again . Thank you
Yes! 🙌 Thank you Damian! I can’t wait to see what you do with it. Best of luck my friend. Cheers!
I never thought of that way to brace while you weld a cut down axle. Looks good
We’ll see. An inspection of the bearings in a few thousand miles will determine just how good it is.
yea, bout size width of a coke can.
Yes! Also ew! 😆
Very nice work, Great video, thanks for sharing
Thank you, John!
Most modders prefer petrol but one engine to consider is the 3.2 turbo diesel Hyundai engine bolts directly into a 4x4 petrol delica (L300)gearbox so no reason it won't fit your l200....the Hyundai motor was sumwhere around 2008-2009..can't remember the model..but Hyundai bought I to mitsy in 96-97
.cracked me up never heard mighty max before ..we did get a 2.6 l200 as well here in new Zealand ..and they put that same 2.6 motor in some Mazda/ford utes to here in nz
That sounds really interesting but I think I’d be scared to use a diesel engine. I know very little about them so I imagine it would be frustrating to work on. And diagnosis? Forget it.
@@GarageFab I'm of similar mindset altho I've done diesels being a mechanic it would be good if u were using a low ks unit and when it's worn out just replace it ...mate had a 1600awd delica that his dad had which blew up and his dad put the motor in ...I ended up with the gbox replacement task as it did heaps if towing and the spigot bearing wasn't pressed up against the input shaft cone peice so this creates wear on the shaft and it gets floppy then the gearbox fails .this was a COMMON mitsy issue back in the day even on rwd ..I found the answer was only install the bearing halfway in then carefully and evenly bolt the gearbox in ..this stops the input shaft issue
For a moment there it really started to sound like you were making up car parts. Muffler bearings, piston return springs, etc. 😂
Mount the dial indicator on a magnetic base, and just stick it to the jig. I have one I’ll send you if you could use it still.
Much appreciated my friend. 🙏 This axle is done and ready for install, so it wouldn’t be much use now, but it might’ve been very useful during production.
@@GarageFab shoulda called me. 🤣
I would prefer to use the ER307 or, ER70S-A1 for this situation rather than the standard ER70S6/2
Why for?
@@GarageFab Hey there from Europe! Just wanted to drop you a big hello. I'm a regular follower of your channel, and I gotta say, I'm a huge fan of your work. I don't wanna sound like a know-it-all, but I had a suggestion regarding welding those special tough materials to a specific quality. For instance, when welding those shafts or hard-facing excavation machinery as a buffer or an intermediate layer, we always go for Bohler A7 CN IG due to its technical characteristics. Of course, we do it with proper preheating of the material and controlling the welded joint's temperature not to exceed a certain limit. Most of the time, we preheat at 100 degrees Celsius, which is around 212 degrees Fahrenheit, and the welded joint shouldn't go beyond 300 degrees Celsius (572 degrees Fahrenheit). And for some standard chassis parts, we always use Bohler DMO-IG, which is a more advanced version of ER70S/6 due to its better chemical composition. To keep it short, I really don't wanna sound like a smarty-pants, just wanted to give you a suggestion. If you can get that mentioned filler material, grab a small quantity and give it a try!
I like know-it-alls when they’re able and willing to share since if their knowledge! Thank you for taking the time to write all that. I most certainly will give it a try. Thank you my friend! 🙏
Mighty Maxle. 😬
Haha! 😂
I thought of a great upgrade to your jig but I'm not sure if I'll explain it properly but I'll try. You could weld flat metal plate both sides of the jig so that then you can cut down where the welds will be, leaving another space but yet everything should stay true because the flat plates would be very very very strong of course you have to cut down low for the differential to swing. Do you know what I mean or was that a terrible explanation?
Where did the part 6 go?
I’m assuming you’re referring to the Suspension Basics series. It’s coming! Working on it now. Hopefully in the next couple weeks.
Mighty Maxle
I might have to change the name of this video. 🤔
Great video. I've been looking forward to this one since I plan to narrow a rear end for my build as well. Loving the information and entertainment you bring with these videos. Keep it up.
Nice. Which axle are you planning to shorten?
Thank you!!
A GM 10 bolt with 3.73 gear posi and discs.
From the photos I've seen it like an external jig would work just fine on that one. 👍
Cool method!
It might break! It might not! Very exciting. 😂
😎👍😎
Thank you, Jerry!
Hello. Just found your channel. Watching the episode on narrowing the axle. I’m a Pipefitter by trade so cutting pipe is part of my job. Your use if the binder to wrap around the axle tube is how we do it also. There is a tool ( kinda cheap) that is called, you guessed it, a wrap around. It’s 4” wide and come in several lengths. They can handle heat not direct flames and can be found on Amazon. Also there are several other pipefitting tools that you could possibly use like a center finder. Also on Amazon. Just thought this might help Thanks for the content I have a D21 I’m working on and am always looking for ideas
Thank you, Larry!! That’s greatly appreciated! I’m always on the lookout for cool simple tools. I will certainly check them out.
Can’t wait to see what you do with the Nissan. Definitely one of my favorite trucks. 🙌
I'm building a 88. This is cool to see these trucks coming back. Mine is ls swapped to a built 4l60e going out back to a ford 8.8 narrowed with a locker 31 splined axles. Budnik wheels with matching steering wheel Full framed with mandrel bent rails. Body dropped 3/8" from bottom of the door. Shortened wheel base to 101" . This truck is still under construction and 100% built in my garage, with the goal to be seen at Sparks in the Ozarks in October. Keep it up , this shits motivating
I wanna see!! I don’t think I’m gonna make to Sparks tho. Why the wheel base shortening? Looks? Did you shorten the bed as well? Sounds like it’s going to be a blast to drive. 👏