For that little spindle lock you can get "Remove Before Flight" tags that are used on airplanes. If you have an e-stop switch on the machine it's self maybe you could design a holder for the locking part that would need to be placed back into a storage position to close the e-stop circuit. If you do that, I think it would be good to make the locking piece tethered to the base so it couldn't be lost (since that would mean you couldn't use it until you bought another one or it would tempt people to bypass the e-stop). The best would probably be to have it on a swinging arm so you could swing it into position to lock the spindle, then swing it back and it would snap into the e-stop housing, closing the circuit.
I agree, either something that mechanically/electronically disables it until removed like lock-out systems in industrial machinary, or at least a tag similarly to the aeronautical industry.
RFID.... a simple RFID node could be used, when the key is in place it would make contact with the RFID reader attached to the side of the router , which would send a signal to the computer creating an e-stop function.
Thanks for the Frank and honest feedback. This gives us confidence that you'll do as you say and say as you do. I would like to know which router you suggest because Black Friday sales are coming up and it would be good to have one ready to go. The same thing goes for drill bits what do you suggest? And anything else we need to do to be prepared for the January or so delivery. Great job overall. So much. Forward to drilling soon
Depending where you are on the world the router is called dwp611 or 26200. As a starter I would suggest to also purchase a 1/8" collet and start off with this size router bit as they are much cheaper if you break them and can also do less damage. There are also collet reducers but i would not recommend those. After some experience I would go to quality mills and maintain them by cleaning off resin on a regular basis. You will need a certain bit diameter to reach the depth required, in the us this will be typically 1/4" i guess in europe I use 4 or 5mm. Before starting off I would give dust extraction some thought and software to create gcode to cut, I use Estlcam.
@fatassbattlecat (great name!) is exactly right. You want the DWP611. Make sure you get the one that has the cord coming off out the side and not the top
Thanks for the interesting and honest update! 👍 Like the way you're managing these things! Do you had time check the possibility to use the Makita router? (Because I want to order my router in time if needed...but I own the Makita already)
I have a Makita router here for testing too. I do want to support the Makita eventually, but day 1 we're just focused on the DeWalt. Just trying to keep it as simple as possible. There are already some really interesting ideas in the forums for how to make the Makita work, and there will be an official solution in the works as soon as possible.
Bar I remember 6 or 7 years ago, Maslow1 , really want one ... almost start building my DIY cnc router ,but still expensive and looks even with the help on RUclips takes long time to finish, I can wait to get the Maslow4 . when you guys going to sell it ?
Could you auto-unspool, in the same manner that you retract? Or increase the 'pull' speed? Looked a tiny bit slow (cool feature though in either case). 100% agree on the tiny button lock element - everybody is going to forget &/or loose it fast! Perhaps a much much larger piece with a handle, such that you cam it in underneath to hold the button up - but it's huge (relative to your current design) so it's easy to use, see, and not loose track of.
Just add a little eyelet onto the locking gizmo, add a red thread and print some red tag saying “REMOVE”. If it will dangle there you will see it and wont forget to remove it.
We're going to sell all the parts individually and post the .STL files for free so this will be an option. That being said the injection molded parts are probably going to be cheaper and better since we could use really high quality materials like self lubricating POM and glass fiber reinforced PC. Prusament PC-CF was the only material I found that lasted when I was prototyping.
For that little spindle lock you can get "Remove Before Flight" tags that are used on airplanes. If you have an e-stop switch on the machine it's self maybe you could design a holder for the locking part that would need to be placed back into a storage position to close the e-stop circuit. If you do that, I think it would be good to make the locking piece tethered to the base so it couldn't be lost (since that would mean you couldn't use it until you bought another one or it would tempt people to bypass the e-stop). The best would probably be to have it on a swinging arm so you could swing it into position to lock the spindle, then swing it back and it would snap into the e-stop housing, closing the circuit.
I was thinking the same thing. A big red flag will catch someone's attention
I agree, either something that mechanically/electronically disables it until removed like lock-out systems in industrial machinary, or at least a tag similarly to the aeronautical industry.
My thoughts exactly . I've seen them as a key fob.
RFID.... a simple RFID node could be used, when the key is in place it would make contact with the RFID reader attached to the side of the router , which would send a signal to the computer creating an e-stop function.
Yeah, I think that could be perfect
Awesome update! I really appreciate your transparency and candidness! ...and I cannot wait to get my hands on the Maslow4!!
We can't wait to send it to you!
Im so glad i found this channel. I was preparing to buy the m2 but now im gonna wait for your m4 to be up for sale. Such a cool creation.
Thanks! We're glad you found us too. The M2 is a copy of my old design :p
They are taking orders again on their website
Seeing the little features ist way cool und audio works this time🎉 keep going taht think will succeed
I thought of you when I fixed the audio this time :)
Thanks for the Frank and honest feedback. This gives us confidence that you'll do as you say and say as you do. I would like to know which router you suggest because Black Friday sales are coming up and it would be good to have one ready to go. The same thing goes for drill bits what do you suggest? And anything else we need to do to be prepared for the January or so delivery. Great job overall. So much. Forward to drilling soon
Depending where you are on the world the router is called dwp611 or 26200. As a starter I would suggest to also purchase a 1/8" collet and start off with this size router bit as they are much cheaper if you break them and can also do less damage. There are also collet reducers but i would not recommend those. After some experience I would go to quality mills and maintain them by cleaning off resin on a regular basis. You will need a certain bit diameter to reach the depth required, in the us this will be typically 1/4" i guess in europe I use 4 or 5mm. Before starting off I would give dust extraction some thought and software to create gcode to cut, I use Estlcam.
@fatassbattlecat (great name!) is exactly right. You want the DWP611. Make sure you get the one that has the cord coming off out the side and not the top
Thank you for the updates!
Absolutely! Thanks for being interested!
So stoked to get mine!!!! I have a first project for it, ready to go!
Don't forget to post pictures in the forums when you do! Seeing what people build is my favorite thing
@@maslowcnc absolutely! I may have to reach out for some help!
That’s really slick, Bar. Nice.
Thanks for sharing 😊
There goes my Xmas gift production. jk
The cable release and retract is slick!
Thanks for the interesting and honest update! 👍
Like the way you're managing these things!
Do you had time check the possibility to use the Makita router? (Because I want to order my router in time if needed...but I own the Makita already)
I have a Makita router here for testing too. I do want to support the Makita eventually, but day 1 we're just focused on the DeWalt. Just trying to keep it as simple as possible. There are already some really interesting ideas in the forums for how to make the Makita work, and there will be an official solution in the works as soon as possible.
Bar I remember 6 or 7 years ago, Maslow1 , really want one ... almost start building my DIY cnc router ,but still expensive and looks even with the help on RUclips takes long time to finish, I can wait to get the Maslow4 . when you guys going to sell it ?
Thanks for following along! We are currently sold out, but we are hoping to start taking orders again in the beginning of next year
With black Friday soon, I will look for some router deals.
What was the models that you currently support?
You want the DeWalt DWP611!
Hey just a thought, your spindle stop piece could be a key for the power input for your router possibly?
Could you auto-unspool, in the same manner that you retract? Or increase the 'pull' speed? Looked a tiny bit slow (cool feature though in either case). 100% agree on the tiny button lock element - everybody is going to forget &/or loose it fast! Perhaps a much much larger piece with a handle, such that you cam it in underneath to hold the button up - but it's huge (relative to your current design) so it's easy to use, see, and not loose track of.
The belts work great for pulling, but we can't really push them very well since they are so bendy. They have a tendency to end up getting tangled
Add a "Remove Before Flight" tag...
OMG. How do I get onboard? I have a maslow that’s been upgraded to a metal maslow and then to a makermade m2 and would love to get one of these!
Just add a little eyelet onto the locking gizmo, add a red thread and print some red tag saying “REMOVE”. If it will dangle there you will see it and wont forget to remove it.
Have you tried putting a big magnet on the other side of the plywood for rigidity
I haven't tried that, the idea would be to pull the sled against the plywood as it's cutting?
Is it still a ‘2.5 axis’ machine or can it carve? (Move the z while traveling in x and or y directions?)
As an Aussie I would prefer the Makita as well - DeWalt's here are outrageously expensive!
The Makita is #1 on the list to add support for as soon as we get everything else done
how about a red plastic pull ring on the lock piece?
How does one purchase Maslow 4?
You can pre-order one now from www.MaslowCNC.com
Could you make a cheaper kit for people with 3d printers, with plans to print our own?
We're going to sell all the parts individually and post the .STL files for free so this will be an option. That being said the injection molded parts are probably going to be cheaper and better since we could use really high quality materials like self lubricating POM and glass fiber reinforced PC. Prusament PC-CF was the only material I found that lasted when I was prototyping.
get a roll of survey tape, 50 feet, $2. cut a foot of the dayglo orange tape and glue it to the collet lock
"Remove before flight" flag attached to bit lock!
At 5:20 everyone is yelling - take the spindle lock out!!!
Lol...I couldn't have scripted it better. Even though I knew it was a problem I still forgot!
It looks janky - even after so many years of dev it doesn’t look like a solid product
disagree, think it looks as solid as it has to be. If the plastic parts are designed properly this should hold up just fine for the intended purpose