This is so ironic. I can’t believe you posted this video. I was messing around with my counterbalance oil and of course I dropped the dipstick down. When I was looking and trying to trying to grab it a really small plastic piece of tubing came off of some thing I had no idea where. I know it was a drain tube of some sort. I just didn’t know where the heck it came from I’ll be looking at different areas tomorrow after watching this. I love that you work on this machine. You’ve taught me so much. I just ordered the oil to do my hub oil change on wheels. 🎉
Thanks for all these videos. I've been doing a bunch of work on the same machine. I just need to replace my water pump and my machine will be bullet proof for at least a couple years
hi. thank you very much for your help you helped me a lot. but now I have to ask you for help again. what CDI should I buy. I bought a few but they don't work
On a previous video, you had a yellow prefilter around the outside of your air filter. Where did you get that? I can't find one big enough to go around my filter.
I have a question about the air filter box i have this exact four wheeler but when i got it needs some tlc here and there and its missing parts for the air box all that was on it was the bottom part and im having trouble finding what exact parts i need to get. Ps im new to this kind of stuff its my first fourwheeler that im working on so apologies for a somewhat dumb question.
So, a good rescores for this kind of thing is online stores like Partzilla.com, Cheapcycleparts.com, Revzilla.com, and others. They have a full parts brake down with exploded view and part numbers. If they don't have it on their web site, then you can copy the part number and past is in your google search and look there. This is how I find all the parts I need. I also search eBay and ATV salvage yards. You should be able to find these air box parts online without much trouble.
Hello, excuse me I have a the same polaris and I have a question about the Oil two stroke , how many oil need This polaris ? For the correct mix with the gas. I hope that you con answer me thanks
@@omarhernandez9373 Yes but, I like to think about it as, 40 drops of gas for ever one drop of oil. Or 40 milliliters of gas to ever 1 milliliters of oil.
Hello, I am stuck as heck with my 95 sportsman! I got it with a seized engine. It seems the crank was initially assembled without the rod bearing, which left enough play for the rod to smash a hole in the crank case. That led to debris shattering the piston skirt and ultimately jamming up the engine. I replaced the crankshaft assembly, crank case, all bearings and seals. (your videos were very helpful with this thanks) When I went to start it up it initially ran. but for some reason it cut off, no alarming noises, just as if I pressed the kill switch. Now the thing wont run. Here's what I checked: The key is on and selector to run. The shifter is in neutral. The battery is charged. The carburetor is clean and all passages are clear. The carburetor is getting fuel and the bowl is full. The throttle is moving as it should. The spark plug has a strong spark. The spark plug has a small amount of oil and gas mix (barely any). There is a lot of compression (did the finger check) There are no broken wires that I can see. Disconnected the CDI black wire (it was worth a shot). I tried putting fuel directly down the yap. The oiler is connected to I've been running normal fuel. I disconnected the oiler and used properly mixed fuel. I disassembled most of the engine again and verified that the stator and crank timing marks are correct. Sometimes it has a small backfire out the exhaust, and it seems like its almost firing. but never gets more than a puff. what on earth could be going on here? Do you have any suggestions?
I would be suspect of the crank seals, a crack in the engine case that is leaking, reed valves not sealing. Cylinder base nuts loose, or a failed gasket. In other words, a vacuum leak. So, check for that. First, I would pull the crank case drain and see if it is flooded than I would disconnect the exhaust and see if it is obstructed, and I may even try to start the engine with exhaust disconnected and see if it would start. (don't let it run long with exhaust disconnected a second or two max). While you have the exhaust off look at the piston for any damage. These things are easy to do. I would definitely put a compression tester on it and try a new spark plug. You can never know what other owners have done to the machine in the past. The engine going from running to not running without any odd sounds or backfire suggest a crank seal or reed valve. Of cores Spark would be next in line but you checked that, make sure it's good spark. Spark should be able to jump 3/8 in. gap or more. So, this would be the next thing I would check. Compression would be on my mind also 120psi or more is a healthy engine. 2 strokes are simple so, think simple things. The crank case needs to be Airtight and hold pressure. (Note: the crank case can have a huge leak, and the engine will still make compression.) You can test this by covering all the ports and adding Air pressure to the engine and it should be able to hold 5 or 6 psi for several minutes. There are videos of how to do this if you're not sure. This is pretty much all I can think of that could be wrong if everything you checked is in good working order. I hope this helps and I hope you get it worked out. Go back to the basics of 2 stroke troubleshooting. Don't assume the work you did is correct, double check your work. This has got me in the past. P.S. More reasonably what had happened is the rod bearing disintegrated. The factory cast pistons are prone to braking and destroying the engine. Not saying someone went through the trouble of separating the crank and left out the rod bearing by accident, I'm sure it is possible but that happening, and someone going through the effort to true the crank and install it like this is highly unlikely.
@@MrFixit1 Okay, a bit of an update, I pulled the crank case drain and a small dribble of fuel/oil came out. When i disconnected the exhaust there was a couple ml of mostly oil. I decided not to run it after that and disassembled the engine. The seals all appear to be in good condition and i didn't see any visual signs of oil coming though to either of the outer sections. I did notice that the piston (new) has some damage to the skirt. upon further inspection i saw that the retaining pin had come out and caused some damage. When i installed them i noticed that the replacement retainers had significantly weaker spring tension when compared to the original. I ordered a new piston and ill be using the original retainers. The cylinder wall was undamaged (it seems to be pretty tough). I don't think that this explains the oil in the exhaust though. unless maybe due to me cranking the heck out of it maybe the fuel burned off in the occasional puff and the oil stayed behind. That being said I'm planning on getting a compression tester and doing a crank case PSI test. This all may be helpful to other people so ill be sure to add some updates.
@@MrFixit1 okay final update. i reassembled the engine with new gaskets and seals. i also replaced the piston. the compression test read 142, so i think its good. I put it all back together and it fired right up. I ran it until it was warm and adjusted the carb for a good idle and response. it seems to be all good now. Thanks for the push in the right direction!
@@MrFixit1 so I added coolant I even checked the radiator and put some antifreeze in there, and after about 2 miles of riding, my radiator light comes on? What next? By the way because of you, I did that counterbalance oil changed my transmission oil. Well I was in there I threw in a new gas filter.😀
@@michellealms3238 Assuming you blead the cooling system correctly. Check that the radiator fins are not full of mud and debris. Make sure the water pump is moving coolant, and make sure the engine is not running lean or starving for oil. Check that the wire going to the temperature sensor isn't shorting out or something goofy like that.
This is so ironic. I can’t believe you posted this video. I was messing around with my counterbalance oil and of course I dropped the dipstick down. When I was looking and trying to trying to grab it a really small plastic piece of tubing came off of some thing I had no idea where. I know it was a drain tube of some sort. I just didn’t know where the heck it came from I’ll be looking at different areas tomorrow after watching this. I love that you work on this machine. You’ve taught me so much. I just ordered the oil to do my hub oil change on wheels. 🎉
Channel is underappreciated.
you took the plastics off just to show hose routing, +1 like.
Thank you!
Thanks for all these videos. I've been doing a bunch of work on the same machine. I just need to replace my water pump and my machine will be bullet proof for at least a couple years
hi. thank you very much for your help you helped me a lot. but now I have to ask you for help again. what CDI should I buy. I bought a few but they don't work
On a previous video, you had a yellow prefilter around the outside of your air filter. Where did you get that? I can't find one big enough to go around my filter.
The yellow part was the filter and on the inside, there is a red prefilter and it all came together like that from UNI
I have a question about the air filter box i have this exact four wheeler but when i got it needs some tlc here and there and its missing parts for the air box all that was on it was the bottom part and im having trouble finding what exact parts i need to get. Ps im new to this kind of stuff its my first fourwheeler that im working on so apologies for a somewhat dumb question.
So, a good rescores for this kind of thing is online stores like Partzilla.com, Cheapcycleparts.com, Revzilla.com, and others. They have a full parts brake down with exploded view and part numbers. If they don't have it on their web site, then you can copy the part number and past is in your google search and look there. This is how I find all the parts I need. I also search eBay and ATV salvage yards. You should be able to find these air box parts online without much trouble.
@@MrFixit1 okay thank you I appreciate it
Hello, excuse me I have a the same polaris and I have a question about the Oil two stroke , how many oil need This polaris ? For the correct mix with the gas. I hope that you con answer me thanks
40 to 1 ratio
@@MrFixit1 40 liters of gas for 1 of oil its correct?
@@omarhernandez9373 Yes but, I like to think about it as, 40 drops of gas for ever one drop of oil. Or 40 milliliters of gas to ever 1 milliliters of oil.
Hello,
I am stuck as heck with my 95 sportsman! I got it with a seized engine. It seems the crank was initially assembled without the rod bearing, which left enough play for the rod to smash a hole in the crank case. That led to debris shattering the piston skirt and ultimately jamming up the engine. I replaced the crankshaft assembly, crank case, all bearings and seals. (your videos were very helpful with this thanks) When I went to start it up it initially ran. but for some reason it cut off, no alarming noises, just as if I pressed the kill switch. Now the thing wont run. Here's what I checked:
The key is on and selector to run.
The shifter is in neutral.
The battery is charged.
The carburetor is clean and all passages are clear.
The carburetor is getting fuel and the bowl is full.
The throttle is moving as it should.
The spark plug has a strong spark.
The spark plug has a small amount of oil and gas mix (barely any).
There is a lot of compression (did the finger check)
There are no broken wires that I can see.
Disconnected the CDI black wire (it was worth a shot).
I tried putting fuel directly down the yap.
The oiler is connected to I've been running normal fuel.
I disconnected the oiler and used properly mixed fuel.
I disassembled most of the engine again and verified that the stator and crank timing marks are correct.
Sometimes it has a small backfire out the exhaust, and it seems like its almost firing. but never gets more than a puff.
what on earth could be going on here? Do you have any suggestions?
I would be suspect of the crank seals, a crack in the engine case that is leaking, reed valves not sealing. Cylinder base nuts loose, or a failed gasket. In other words, a vacuum leak. So, check for that.
First, I would pull the crank case drain and see if it is flooded than I would disconnect the exhaust and see if it is obstructed, and I may even try to start the engine with exhaust disconnected and see if it would start. (don't let it run long with exhaust disconnected a second or two max). While you have the exhaust off look at the piston for any damage. These things are easy to do.
I would definitely put a compression tester on it and try a new spark plug.
You can never know what other owners have done to the machine in the past.
The engine going from running to not running without any odd sounds or backfire suggest a crank seal or reed valve. Of cores Spark would be next in line but you checked that, make sure it's good spark. Spark should be able to jump 3/8 in. gap or more. So, this would be the next thing I would check. Compression would be on my mind also 120psi or more is a healthy engine.
2 strokes are simple so, think simple things.
The crank case needs to be Airtight and hold pressure. (Note: the crank case can have a huge leak, and the engine will still make compression.) You can test this by covering all the ports and adding Air pressure to the engine and it should be able to hold 5 or 6 psi for several minutes. There are videos of how to do this if you're not sure.
This is pretty much all I can think of that could be wrong if everything you checked is in good working order.
I hope this helps and I hope you get it worked out. Go back to the basics of 2 stroke troubleshooting.
Don't assume the work you did is correct, double check your work. This has got me in the past.
P.S. More reasonably what had happened is the rod bearing disintegrated. The factory cast pistons are prone to braking and destroying the engine. Not saying someone went through the trouble of separating the crank and left out the rod bearing by accident, I'm sure it is possible but that happening, and someone going through the effort to true the crank and install it like this is highly unlikely.
@@MrFixit1 Thank you very much for the reply. Ill Check these things out and follow up with what i find.
@@MrFixit1 Okay, a bit of an update, I pulled the crank case drain and a small dribble of fuel/oil came out. When i disconnected the exhaust there was a couple ml of mostly oil. I decided not to run it after that and disassembled the engine. The seals all appear to be in good condition and i didn't see any visual signs of oil coming though to either of the outer sections. I did notice that the piston (new) has some damage to the skirt. upon further inspection i saw that the retaining pin had come out and caused some damage. When i installed them i noticed that the replacement retainers had significantly weaker spring tension when compared to the original. I ordered a new piston and ill be using the original retainers. The cylinder wall was undamaged (it seems to be pretty tough).
I don't think that this explains the oil in the exhaust though. unless maybe due to me cranking the heck out of it maybe the fuel burned off in the occasional puff and the oil stayed behind. That being said I'm planning on getting a compression tester and doing a crank case PSI test. This all may be helpful to other people so ill be sure to add some updates.
@@FevoIsGod Thanks for the update.
@@MrFixit1 okay final update. i reassembled the engine with new gaskets and seals. i also replaced the piston. the compression test read 142, so i think its good. I put it all back together and it fired right up. I ran it until it was warm and adjusted the carb for a good idle and response. it seems to be all good now. Thanks for the push in the right direction!
What size are the vent tubes?
1/8 or 3/16 I believe
I have a question about my radiator??
What's your question?
@@MrFixit1 so I added coolant I even checked the radiator and put some antifreeze in there, and after about 2 miles of riding, my radiator light comes on? What next? By the way because of you, I did that counterbalance oil changed my transmission oil. Well I was in there I threw in a new gas filter.😀
@@michellealms3238 Assuming you blead the cooling system correctly. Check that the radiator fins are not full of mud and debris. Make sure the water pump is moving coolant, and make sure the engine is not running lean or starving for oil. Check that the wire going to the temperature sensor isn't shorting out or something goofy like that.