I used the same kit for my Craftsman DLT 3000 a year or two ago. It worked well enough, although I put the original wheels back on the tops of the new spindles. It seemed like the new wheels for the spindle tops that were included in the kit caused the blade belt to fit too tight and dragged on the motor hub a bit, even when the blade was turned off, which caused me to burn up my starter before I had realized the problem. So watch out for that if you're using one of these kits!
I rebuilt my deck five years ago. Nice. But I noticed large cracking and rust holes throughout the deck. They sell no more decks, so soon I will be buying another lawn tractor. Got my moneys worth.
These things are a PIA. Some tips for loose cable: Check to make sure the cable is clamped everywhere it is supposed to be. Like a bike brake cable, it's not just the end-points that matter. For the springs, they have an orientation, so make sure you are using the right holes for the springs everywhere, and the right orientation. The way they make these decks, they put in extra holes all over the place so that different models can use the same deck. For people just getting started on this job, use a paint-pen and mark up the springs with a paint mark and where it attaches so you get it right. Taking a picture with your phone works too, but with all the shadows it's not always easy to make out what's what. The springs can easily be put in the wrong orientation and the wrong holes in the deck. Just because you can get everything attached doesn't mean it's right. Like I said earlier, there are extra holes for different models, so not only can you put a spring in the wrong way, you can attach it to the wrong hole. This goes for the pullies too, like seen in the video. This guy that made the video nicely showed the troubles you can have so you don't have to experience them yourself. I recommend doing ONE part at a time whenever possible. These things are like a puzzle that lets you do things the wrong way. Even using a paint-pen when you first get it and marking the belt routing can be a time-saver down the road. Some of the problems aren't even easily fixed, but will make you a lot of headaches, like elongated holes from excessive wear, putting things so you can't adjust the tension easily. If you can, do what I do when changing the blades. Don't even take off the deck and stand it up. Be sure the gas tank is empty first. They make the clip that mounts the cable out of cheap plastic and if you take it on and off too many times it gets torn up and doesn't stay put. Good luck, get a paint-pen and take close up pictures of every step. A few seconds of pictures and paint will save you lots of time and money.
Thanks for such a great video! It's going to be a big help to me as I rebuild my own 42" deck. A few weeks ago, I bought a Craftsman LT2000 for $20 at my local small engine repair shop. The owner of the shop told me a lady brought it in, but decided to junk it after he told her it would cost over $1000 to do all the repairs. I asked him if he thought the 17.5 hp motor was still good and he said yes, but that it wasn't worth it to him to spend all the time and cost (in parts) that would be needed to fix it. I said, that's okay, I have the time. So, he sold it to me. I took it home and have been working on it every day for several weeks. It needed just about everything: 4-tires, solenoid, a key, ignition switch, drive belt, deck belt, a new seat, spindles (mandrels), a deck engagement cable, a knob for its handle, battery, carburetor, valve adjustment, an oil change, a good blade sharpening and a heavy-duty cleaning. Luckily, I had all the parts but one because my old LT1000's engine had seized and I was able to scavenge everything I needed from it. After adjusting the valves, doing an oil change, swapping out the carburetor, and cleaning the engine, I decided to try starting it. It took a couple of tries but it started and runs really well. I'm now in the midst of rebuilding the deck. And when I'm finished, I will have spent less than $40 and have a mower that's worth, at a minimum, $800.
I would say "THE BEST" video on this deck! You cleaned the deck, and positioned the camera in such-a-way that didn't 'Block' the people's view from watching. "👍" I bought a "Basket Case' deck that had all the replacement parts in a box, No schematic included. Thanks a Bunch!!!
Thanks Dee, great video, tons of help on my old LT1000 deck rebuild. You're a total fricken HOOT, by the way. You make it all fun and easy at the same time. Keep it up!
Just finished the deck rebuild on my mower so I knew how everything was supposed to be mounted. I was screaming to you when you were putting that pulley towards the front of the deck. I’m glad you got it all completed. It is a process for sure.
I wish I knew if you lived nearby so I could by you a beer, Dee. With a little blood (literally), sweat and cursing (no tears) I got this done yesterday. Muchapreesh!!!
Appreciate your video. I had taken my belt off and ordered a new one, but wasn't sure about how to route it when the belt came in 2 weeks later. With your video for reference, and I had it done in 5 minutes. Thanks!
thank you ! i am really good at taking things apart ... not so good on remembering where springs and things go when it's time to put it all back together. thank you !!!
Mines a 1996 , bought it brand new, still original motor, a Kohler Command, but deck has been replaced with a newer one , just had brackets that where welded on come off and replacing everything like you did. I'm using Oregon spindles, which are probably the best, and a Kevlar reinforced belt .
A trick on removing bolts, especially when re-using them, is to lightly tighten them before attempting to impact remove them. Also when in aluminum a lot of care must be taken, tighten then loosen multiple times to remove. Using a fixed high torque impact with no low setting is asking for broken bolts. Now as he said if your not re-using then blaze away!
You have to remove the guard from one of the pulleys, which is a pain in the butt. I recommend you leave it off when rebuilding the deck. They allow a lot of debris to gather around that spindle. With the guard off, it is much easier to keep deck clean.
The deck on my 2004 DLT3000 became rusted out, so I bought a new deck, new spindles and a spring. Moved everything rise over and it cuts like new! $500 for parts plus my time is a lot cheaper than a new riding mower!
LIKED YOUR VIDEO , but when you put the cotter pin in the mower engage cable you you put it in upside down , it goes through the hole and the rest goes over the the keeper, not a biggy but not right, good video though...!!
Same thing I’m gonna do , but I’ve already cleaned and painted both top and bottom of the deck. Here in Michigan it’s a little more important because of moisture and it will rust out a deck in about 5 years if you don’t maintain it.
Just did a complete rebuild on my neighbors deck. Easy peasy!! My only issue is the belt. The original one they call for is way too tight. I took a suggestion from another video to use a thinner/longer belt. though it does work, I feel the belt is 1-2 inches too long. It slips occasionally.
Make sure you didn’t over tighten the tensioner arm. it my get hung up….before hooking up the spring make sure the arm can make full travel and if you replaced the spring my be to much tension I put a new spring and the cable engagement seem to be stretching harder to engage and lose belt ….I also pinned a comment about the after market spindle pulleys read it
What is the name of the thin piece of metal bolted across the front right side under the front of the deck. I need that piece and cannot find it in any diagram.
Also after a thorough cleaning of the deck after washing to let dry then paint the crap out of it with rustoleum after changing the spindles or she will get holes in her.
I have recently acquired a 917.271060 with the 42" 3-way deck...can anyone tell me the difference that and the 917.270940 in this video? (...I am inclined to think that the 'higher' suffic in the model number indicates a newer addition to the 917 series; although, many manufacturers utilize a different rubric for Model numbers...) The manual appears to have an (edit, approval, or print) date of 11.19.99...
Great video brother.. You actually could have done several videos for views.. You could've done a video to restore the deck and painting it with Rust-Oleum paint can and another video leveling the deck. Regardless, thank you my brother your time was appreciated
better late than never-another reason your blades will not engauge is the Spring at the front gets hung up(Engauge/disengauge. I put a small PVC tube over it.
did you happen to check if the new belt was the same length as the old? I watched another vid where the guy was saying the belt wasn't long enough in the kit he ordered. I have a LT 1000 but missing the belt so I have no idea which is the correct one. nice vid, great info. thumbs up
@@TheAlex445 They made the lt1000 for many years but changed the style. I did find out under the hood it has all the belt info on a sticker, also I looked up owners manual online to be sure.
Rebuilt my deck and replaced the clutch engagement cable but it's difficult to move it up in order to engage the blades and mower is not cutting. Anybody got any ideas?
Before I replace the parts the blades engaged...now after replacement they dont...I clearly did something wrong...the pulley moves no problem but nothing engages...help
You probably routed the belt wrong. I had the same issue with mine a while back. I found a chart online that showed how the belt was supposed to be. When I rerouted the belt it worked perfectly. Good luck.
The bolts that hold the aluminum mandrel onto deck are self tapping on original equipment to prevent backing out due to vibration and the mandrels will NOT be tapped. Tapped mandrels tell me this is a rebuilt or Chinese reproduction of this part. If they are pretapped, you need to put a flat washer and a lock washer on the deck before inserting bolt. Wouldn't hurt to apply Locite Blue to bolt before assembly. You can do it the way this guy did and I did the 1st time, but don't be surprised if the mandrel falls out when you are mowing your grass.
Good job! However, you’re gonna need a new deck soon especially since you didn’t clean, sanded to metal, primed and repainted. Would recommend to anyone doing all this work of taking apart to go the extra length of refinishing so that the deck will last much longer.
I don't think they sell a complete lawn mower deck rebuild. it's missing the brake had arms- the springs-as well as the deck brake linkage bar. for life of me I cannot find any videos on how to set up the deck brakes the actual linkage arm that goes across if you're supposed to tighten it all the way down if you're supposed to tighten it halfway and then leave room for adjustment there's no videos no instructions nowhere on the internet. lol the part number is that Sears list for the linkage arm doesn't match anything on Amazon . I didn't try eBay. I'll go through them damn brake pads and arm in the trash. LOL thanks for your video and time. the deck brakes on your mower we're not the same as the craziness I'm dealing with. sorry for the ramble
To be honest ,those three leg spindles are junk . All the bolts freeze in the holes , almost impossible to get the broken pieces out . Very poor design right from the factory , I highly recommend that you spend the extra dollars and buy the heavy duty spindles , they have meat so the legs shouldn't break off so easily.
I used the same kit for my Craftsman DLT 3000 a year or two ago. It worked well enough, although I put the original wheels back on the tops of the new spindles. It seemed like the new wheels for the spindle tops that were included in the kit caused the blade belt to fit too tight and dragged on the motor hub a bit, even when the blade was turned off, which caused me to burn up my starter before I had realized the problem. So watch out for that if you're using one of these kits!
I rebuilt my deck five years ago. Nice. But I noticed large cracking and rust holes throughout the deck. They sell no more decks, so soon I will be buying another lawn tractor. Got my moneys worth.
These things are a PIA. Some tips for loose cable: Check to make sure the cable is clamped everywhere it is supposed to be. Like a bike brake cable, it's not just the end-points that matter. For the springs, they have an orientation, so make sure you are using the right holes for the springs everywhere, and the right orientation. The way they make these decks, they put in extra holes all over the place so that different models can use the same deck. For people just getting started on this job, use a paint-pen and mark up the springs with a paint mark and where it attaches so you get it right. Taking a picture with your phone works too, but with all the shadows it's not always easy to make out what's what. The springs can easily be put in the wrong orientation and the wrong holes in the deck. Just because you can get everything attached doesn't mean it's right. Like I said earlier, there are extra holes for different models, so not only can you put a spring in the wrong way, you can attach it to the wrong hole. This goes for the pullies too, like seen in the video. This guy that made the video nicely showed the troubles you can have so you don't have to experience them yourself. I recommend doing ONE part at a time whenever possible. These things are like a puzzle that lets you do things the wrong way. Even using a paint-pen when you first get it and marking the belt routing can be a time-saver down the road. Some of the problems aren't even easily fixed, but will make you a lot of headaches, like elongated holes from excessive wear, putting things so you can't adjust the tension easily. If you can, do what I do when changing the blades. Don't even take off the deck and stand it up. Be sure the gas tank is empty first. They make the clip that mounts the cable out of cheap plastic and if you take it on and off too many times it gets torn up and doesn't stay put. Good luck, get a paint-pen and take close up pictures of every step. A few seconds of pictures and paint will save you lots of time and money.
Thanks for such a great video! It's going to be a big help to me as I rebuild my own 42" deck.
A few weeks ago, I bought a Craftsman LT2000 for $20 at my local small engine repair shop. The owner of the shop told me a lady brought it in, but decided to junk it after he told her it would cost over $1000 to do all the repairs. I asked him if he thought the 17.5 hp motor was still good and he said yes, but that it wasn't worth it to him to spend all the time and cost (in parts) that would be needed to fix it. I said, that's okay, I have the time. So, he sold it to me.
I took it home and have been working on it every day for several weeks. It needed just about everything: 4-tires, solenoid, a key, ignition switch, drive belt, deck belt, a new seat, spindles (mandrels), a deck engagement cable, a knob for its handle, battery, carburetor, valve adjustment, an oil change, a good blade sharpening and a heavy-duty cleaning. Luckily, I had all the parts but one because my old LT1000's engine had seized and I was able to scavenge everything I needed from it.
After adjusting the valves, doing an oil change, swapping out the carburetor, and cleaning the engine, I decided to try starting it. It took a couple of tries but it started and runs really well. I'm now in the midst of rebuilding the deck. And when I'm finished, I will have spent less than $40 and have a mower that's worth, at a minimum, $800.
I would say "THE BEST" video on this deck! You cleaned the deck, and positioned the camera in such-a-way that didn't 'Block' the people's view from watching. "👍" I bought a "Basket Case' deck that had all the replacement parts in a box, No schematic included. Thanks a Bunch!!!
Thanks Dee, great video, tons of help on my old LT1000 deck rebuild. You're a total fricken HOOT, by the way. You make it all fun and easy at the same time. Keep it up!
my family thanks you for helping so many with your video. great video.
Just finished the deck rebuild on my mower so I knew how everything was supposed to be mounted. I was screaming to you when you were putting that pulley towards the front of the deck. I’m glad you got it all completed. It is a process for sure.
I wish I knew if you lived nearby so I could by you a beer, Dee. With a little blood (literally), sweat and cursing (no tears) I got this done yesterday. Muchapreesh!!!
Appreciate your video. I had taken my belt off and ordered a new one, but wasn't sure about how to route it when the belt came in 2 weeks later. With your video for reference, and I had it done in 5 minutes. Thanks!
3 minutes into your video you answered many question and saved hours of time. Thanks
Your video is a life saver, thank you. Rebuilding one for my neighbor and it was all apart when I got it. Again, thank you for taking the time.
thank you ! i am really good at taking things apart ... not so good on remembering where springs and things go when it's time to put it all back together. thank you !!!
We enjoy your videos so much!! Very informative and hysterical at the same time. Well done Sir!
Mines a 1996 , bought it brand new, still original motor, a Kohler Command, but deck has been replaced with a newer one , just had brackets that where welded on come off and replacing everything like you did. I'm using Oregon spindles, which are probably the best, and a Kevlar reinforced belt .
Where do you get Oregon spindles from?
A trick on removing bolts, especially when re-using them, is to lightly tighten them before attempting to impact remove them. Also when in aluminum a lot of care must be taken, tighten then loosen multiple times to remove. Using a fixed high torque impact with no low setting is asking for broken bolts. Now as he said if your not re-using then blaze away!
I will be doing all the same work soon when the parts get here.. thanks for making this video, it will help a lot in a few days..
if you got the same ebay kit the blades were to thin and keep getting loose i use my other blades a good thick set from tractor supply fyi
Great video, this will help me on Saturday when I have to do this exact job on my LT1000 mower. Thank you!
Just picked one up used, lookin around for info; thanks for posting brother!
You have to remove the guard from one of the pulleys, which is a pain in the butt. I recommend you leave it off when rebuilding the deck. They allow a lot of debris to gather around that spindle. With the guard off, it is much easier to keep deck clean.
My LT 1000 is rattling bad!!! Can't wait to do this.
Very informative how to. INCLUDING mistakes like
WE ALL MAKE RICH SCHIFERL!
THANKS!!!!!!!
Just got one of these for free, same year too. Had to buy a carburetor and clean gas tank. Deck needs some TLC but thanks for video. Helped a lot.
Awesome video! I forgot to TAKE the friggin photos, lol. Thanks for sharing!!!
Excellent video. Covers all details
Big thanks from queens NY
The deck on my 2004 DLT3000 became rusted out, so I bought a new deck, new spindles and a spring. Moved everything rise over and it cuts like new! $500 for parts plus my time is a lot cheaper than a new riding mower!
Lock washers are pointless on a flange head bolt but I can understand the desire to keep them in place. Loctite would probably be best.
LIKED YOUR VIDEO , but when you put the cotter pin in the mower engage cable you you put it in upside down , it goes through the hole and the rest goes over the the keeper, not a biggy but not right, good video though...!!
Gracias por la información
Same thing I’m gonna do , but I’ve already cleaned and painted both top and bottom of the deck. Here in Michigan it’s a little more important because of moisture and it will rust out a deck in about 5 years if you don’t maintain it.
Same here thanks for sharing ✌💙
Hey guy thanks the video very informative and easy to understand! 100 thumbs up!
Thanx Dee the vid was superb. Im grateful bro. Thank you,,
Thank you just got mine going again learnings still 😮
Great video man..thanks.
Just did a complete rebuild on my neighbors deck. Easy peasy!! My only issue is the belt. The original one they call for is way too tight. I took a suggestion from another video to use a thinner/longer belt. though it does work, I feel the belt is 1-2 inches too long. It slips occasionally.
Make sure you didn’t over tighten the tensioner arm. it my get hung up….before hooking up the spring make sure the arm can make full travel and if you replaced the spring my be to much tension I put a new spring and the cable engagement seem to be stretching harder to engage and lose belt ….I also pinned a comment about the after market spindle pulleys read it
@@DeeStruggles Yeah I made sure the tensioner is loose and travels fully.
What is the name of the thin piece of metal bolted across the front right side under the front of the deck. I need that piece and cannot find it in any diagram.
Great vid. No high end tools or glitz, just wrenching to get it fixed. Great vid.
Also after a thorough cleaning of the deck after washing to let dry then paint the crap out of it with rustoleum after changing the spindles or she will get holes in her.
Great how to video.
Good job. Thanks man
Get her done ! Love watching the channel especially when working on my 3.8 firebird. ;)
Good video. Thanks.
great video, thanks . ....and I have duct tape on the same spot as your seat
When installing use a copper anti seize on ALL bolts and any nuts then there are not future removal issues!
Looks to me like the tensioning spring for the deck needs thrown into a pan for the motor oil drain and let soak for an hour.
What a great video!
Use anti seize when you mount the aluminum housing to the deck come off great next time.
Amen 🙏
I have recently acquired a 917.271060 with the 42" 3-way deck...can anyone tell me the difference that and the 917.270940 in this video?
(...I am inclined to think that the 'higher' suffic in the model number indicates a newer addition to the 917 series; although, many manufacturers utilize a different rubric for Model numbers...)
The manual appears to have an (edit, approval, or print) date of 11.19.99...
That was awesome
Gracias amigo
Keep old spindles and replace brging also use antiz on every thing
Merry Christmas
Just grind it flat and get the nut out
Will work fine or replace it and new spring
One thing he didn’t show was you have to clamp the shaft somehow cuz the shaft just spins when loosening the large nuts on spindle shafts
Dee it's hanging up because there's divots and notches it won't release grind those notches out and it will engage and disengage like it's supposed to
I think they are called carter pins.
Cotter pins
Great video brother.. You actually could have done several videos for views.. You could've done a video to restore the deck and painting it with Rust-Oleum paint can and another video leveling the deck. Regardless, thank you my brother your time was appreciated
better late than never-another reason your blades will not engauge is the Spring at the front gets hung up(Engauge/disengauge. I put a small PVC tube over it.
The top bolt on the assembly, (7/8) , I can’t get off.. the whole bottom (where the blade sits) is turning with it … what to do..?
I did this to my rider but now my blades seem to be to low. I haven’t taken back apart yet.
I rebuilt my deck on 2013 Troy Bilt pony now the two idler pullys are touching when blades are engaged
did you happen to check if the new belt was the same length as the old? I watched another vid where the guy was saying the belt wasn't long enough in the kit he ordered. I have a LT 1000 but missing the belt so I have no idea which is the correct one. nice vid, great info. thumbs up
I just got a kit off of amazon for my lt1000 and I got the correct belt. It was the same size as my old one
@@TheAlex445 They made the lt1000 for many years but changed the style. I did find out under the hood it has all the belt info on a sticker, also I looked up owners manual online to be sure.
@@BigAlWillis that’s good to know. I’m gonna go look for that sticker now lol
Your factory belt should be a 144200 v-belt... That's what mine is.
@@TheAlex445 I just cut my belt in half and measured side by side with a tape measure.
Rebuilt my deck and replaced the clutch engagement cable but it's difficult to move it up in order to engage the blades and mower is not cutting. Anybody got any ideas?
enteresting rebuild, but I didnt see the first dab of grease on anything,other than that not a bad video for a shade tree mechanic.
Before I replace the parts the blades engaged...now after replacement they dont...I clearly did something wrong...the pulley moves no problem but nothing engages...help
You probably routed the belt wrong. I had the same issue with mine a while back. I found a chart online that showed how the belt was supposed to be. When I rerouted the belt it worked perfectly. Good luck.
@@hyrumnl u were correct. Took the deck off looked again. I definitely had the belt wrong. Put it the correct way. Blades engage no problem
The bolts that hold the aluminum mandrel onto deck are self tapping on original equipment to prevent backing out due to vibration and the mandrels will NOT be tapped. Tapped mandrels tell me this is a rebuilt or Chinese reproduction of this part. If they are pretapped, you need to put a flat washer and a lock washer on the deck before inserting bolt. Wouldn't hurt to apply Locite Blue to bolt before assembly. You can do it the way this guy did and I did the 1st time, but don't be surprised if the mandrel falls out when you are mowing your grass.
Good job! However, you’re gonna need a new deck soon especially since you didn’t clean, sanded to metal, primed and repainted. Would recommend to anyone doing all this work of taking apart to go the extra length of refinishing so that the deck will last much longer.
Did he receive spindles with kit?
I don't think they sell a complete lawn mower deck rebuild. it's missing the brake had arms- the springs-as well as the deck brake linkage bar. for life of me I cannot find any videos on how to set up the deck brakes the actual linkage arm that goes across if you're supposed to tighten it all the way down if you're supposed to tighten it halfway and then leave room for adjustment there's no videos no instructions nowhere on the internet. lol the part number is that Sears list for the linkage arm doesn't match anything on Amazon . I didn't try eBay. I'll go through them damn brake pads and arm in the trash. LOL thanks for your video and time. the deck brakes on your mower we're not the same as the craziness I'm dealing with. sorry for the ramble
What about grease
I need all 3 springs... I take it the so called rebuild kit doesn't come with those. 2 of one & than the Ctr one also.
Where did you get the deck wheels from?
Too bad tje greese doesnt makenot to the berings im the spindle.
To be honest ,those three leg spindles are junk . All the bolts freeze in the holes , almost impossible to get the broken pieces out . Very poor design right from the factory , I highly recommend that you spend the extra dollars and buy the heavy duty spindles , they have meat so the legs shouldn't break off so easily.
I don’t unbolt them and just replace brging
Easy and very cheap
Just break the bolts off with a 1/2" impact and throw $2 worth of new bolts and save 2 hrs of cussing
What it is
Two belt