My professor just gave me an LCR-740 by leader today analog LCR. What a coincidence. And you uploaded it the moment I got home. It's so hard to use and I think I can never calibrate it lol.
You are definetly a genius! Such old instruments need extra care of a clever electronic expert to get fixed - and its worth it! Always a great joy to watch your repair videos and explanations! Thanks for sharing!
It's a pleasure to watch those old device getting treated with such care, in contrast to modern stuff, those devices were art work, put together with a lot of care.
We had at school some of these lab testers but mostly were in stored a glass stand just for exposition. Sometimes, the teacher got one to test and show sometning. We, the students mostly used the new national produced lab equipament, that was solid state and, maybe, cheaper. I am from Romania and I love Tesla and Unitra products. I got a lot of old stock components made by Tesla, resistors, transistors and ICs and they were just very good quality. Go check electrotanya for old schematics, there I got some rare schematics for old test equipment made in Romania.
Nice work and result. I look forward to th e restoration of the power supply. Remember to mail the spiders to a museum. They might be of soviet origin.
For the calibration of the lowest capacitance range. I suggest running the meter without any capacitor, and measuring the capacitance to subtract from the final measurements. The same procedure would also apply for the inductance ranges too.
'Chlorinated impregnation' can also mean isomers of chloronaphtalene, not only PCB. Polish 'KP' series paper capacitors of that era used chloronaphtalenes, and these capacitors are terrible. They are commonly known as 'potato capacitors' (kartoflaki) because they rot, and sometimes are eaten by mice.
Love seeing the avomet in use - though, if I may tease you about it, maybe you should clean the front panel more better and not use it on a diagonal, unless you managed to achieve exceptionally good pointer balancing and are showing it off :)
With my old tube radios i put 110v bulb in series. it drops the voltage so its more like 220. And any shorts should make the bulb go open fast like a fuse.
Quite accurate for such an old instrument but most of the components are probably fairly stable and the working principle is based on first principles. No computer programs....
Tesla was formed in 1946 by nationalizing and merging multiple Czechoslovak companies. It was destroyed in the early 1990s by the flood of cheap Chinese clutter. That's the history in short :).
I guess the sensitivity was too low without this resistor. The resistor helps to make it more sensitive by allowing the cathode voltage to be set lower.
Na video o tomto prístroji som sa veľmi tešil a veru že sa bolo na čo tešiť, opäť super video, je to zaujímavé, s akým jednoduchým (myslené počtom súčiastok) prístrojom sa dá pekne zmerať kapacita a indukčnosť, pekne si ho dal dohromady, akurát by som sa asi nespoliehal na tie staré elektrolytické kondenzátory a vymenil by som ich za dvojicu povedzme 22uF/400V, takáto zvýšená kapacita by ešte podľa mňa nemala tej usmerňovačke robiť problém, nech sa vyjadrí niekto skúsenejší než ja, či by to bolo v pohode, ale to je na tebe, či tie konedenzátory vymeníš, ber to odo mňa len ako taký návrh. Na ďalšie videá sa budem taktiež tešiť, najmä na tie o ďalších historických elektrónkových prístrojoch, ale rád si pozriem aj video o tom spínanom zdroji, ktorý si vo videu ukázal.
First of all, it was in Chechoslovakia 😅 Second, actually all communist countries had their own "hightech" technology companies. There was RFT for East-Germany, Unitra for Poland and Orion - EMG for Hungary and I'm sure the others had their own companies, too. Amoung these, if I had to choose, who was the eastern HP, then I think Orion - EMG was the top. But I might be a little biased here 😜
Could you make a constant current supply that uses an ATtiny85 microcontroller, a MOSFET, a current shunt, a potentiometer, and lastly Arduino code? (I have made such programmer) A 0.96" OLED also would be cool but there might not be enough pins, so ATtiny84 might be better.
Interesting tube type numbers. Prefix is "american" (6 instead of E), the letters are "european" (CC for double triode, F for penthode, Z for rectifier), and number suffix I don't know. 3X would be an octal tube, miniature 7 pin types were 9X? Was this Tesla specific?
I'm not familiar with american tubes, but Tesla was using type numbers starting with 6 for 6.3V heater tubes (and ended with numbers 30-39 for 7-pin glass tubes), but at some point started using E for 6.3V, so you find both types of numbering on Tesla tubes. Very commonly Tesla tubes also started with U for radios with heaters in series running at 100mA or with P for televisions with heaters in series running at 300mA.
@@DiodeGoneWild American tube type numbers were mostly random strings, except with most (but not all) tubes, the first number or two was the heater voltage. The "european" type numbers were standardized, and told more about the tube. First letter was heater voltage or current, D=1.4V, A=4V, E=6.3V etc. The following letters told what the tube was: A=single diode, B=twin diode with common cathode, C=triode, D=tetrode, F=pentode, L=power pentode, etc. If more than one tube was in the envelope, you just combined the letters, for example PCL82 was triode+power pentode, etc. A single digit after the letters meant the old 8pin "P" socket. With two or more digits, the first one usually indicated the socket, 2=loctal, 3=octal, 5=magnoval, 8=noval, 9=miniature 7 pin, etc. For example EM80 is magic eye with 6.3V heater and noval socket.
those devices deserves a proper care and restoration, it's like taking care of elderly people.
They can get leaky too 😉
Awesome as always! Don't be afraid of bloody long videos, we bloody love them! ❤Thanks!😉
Díky moc! ;)
Half an hour? Man, what a treat! Thank you :)
Thanks for sharing your knowledge (:
Thanks for your support ;)
My professor just gave me an LCR-740 by leader today analog LCR. What a coincidence. And you uploaded it the moment I got home. It's so hard to use and I think I can never calibrate it lol.
NVM I don't understand a thing. And it's not based on vacuum tubes:(
You are definetly a genius! Such old instruments need extra care of a clever electronic expert to get fixed - and its worth it! Always a great joy to watch your repair videos and explanations! Thanks for sharing!
I very much appreciate that you restore those old devices and share to process with us. Naaaajs. 🙂
Thanks for sharing your amazing knowledge and letting us ride with you in your electronics time machine!
Thank you for your support and appreciation ;). I'm glad you like my restoration videos :). Several more tube devices are coming...
Tesla made nice test equipment and components. The quality seems pretty good.
And they make crappy cars :) Joking, I know it’s not the same company. I wonder, if CZ government holds some trade mark on the name brand?
Thank you!
Keep the tube stuff comming!
We would love to see you do more with vacuum tubes!
(pls do the high voltage supply next)
Fantastic restoration. I can't wait for the signal generator video.
I started to like the maintenance videos of these Tesla brand laboratory equipment very much. I hope they continue.
You Sir are the most intelligent man on RUclips, thank for sharing these incredible devices, and you knowledge about repairing them.
Paul, USA!!!
It's a pleasure to watch those old device getting treated with such care, in contrast to modern stuff, those devices were art work, put together with a lot of care.
I love how they marked each component for identification. Very labour intensive to build these
Under communism there was no time constraint, or cost issues... just achieve the plan! 😅
Always interested in your restorations.
I do similar with Vintage and Classic Radio Receivers. Keeping them as original as possible..
Výroba sklíčka pod žiarovku je dobrá . 👍
We had at school some of these lab testers but mostly were in stored a glass stand just for exposition. Sometimes, the teacher got one to test and show sometning. We, the students mostly used the new national produced lab equipament, that was solid state and, maybe, cheaper. I am from Romania and I love Tesla and Unitra products. I got a lot of old stock components made by Tesla, resistors, transistors and ICs and they were just very good quality.
Go check electrotanya for old schematics, there I got some rare schematics for old test equipment made in Romania.
I am always so happy to see your videos. Thank you ! Cheers from Poland. :)
Danke!
Big thanks for your support ;)
I really like those Tesla devices. I look forward to seeing the restoration of the high voltage power supply.
Very much interested in seeing your restoration videos. You are really a great genius.
Thanks
Thank you for your support! ;)
Very nice. I remember those instruments from high school days. Yugoslavia was full of it...
Nice work.
Nice work and result.
I look forward to th e restoration of the power supply. Remember to mail the spiders to a museum. They might be of soviet origin.
Another quality video I’m sure! Thanks for the video. Gonna enjoy tonight. For sure. :)
This is more fun than a fiddly Fnirsi tweezer.
theese are awesome looking equipment :) thank you for showing these. Happy restoration
Great restoration, as always! Looking forward to the next ones!
Really great repair and interesting info!!! Thank you.
You sure like your Tesla parts and gear! Great video as always! 😀
Nice DIY pilot lamp domes :)
Damn i love analog tech
Danke!
NicE ;-)
Thank you for your support ;)
Great repair. I like it. 😊
That hairdryer deserves a medal🤣
For the calibration of the lowest capacitance range. I suggest running the meter without any capacitor, and measuring the capacitance to subtract from the final measurements. The same procedure would also apply for the inductance ranges too.
'Chlorinated impregnation' can also mean isomers of chloronaphtalene, not only PCB. Polish 'KP' series paper capacitors of that era used chloronaphtalenes, and these capacitors are terrible. They are commonly known as 'potato capacitors' (kartoflaki) because they rot, and sometimes are eaten by mice.
Nice restoration :-)
Can't wait for the next restorations :)
I too have a RC oscillator by tesla, the BM 344 as well as a pair of stabilised powersupplies BM 275 good up to 400V
Sir please make the next video on the fixing of your broken capacitor meter from the previous video 😊
Love from India ❤🎉
I wish Czech stuff would be more available online. I really gotta go to a flea market or garage sale sometime. Im right over the border of czechia
Love seeing the avomet in use - though, if I may tease you about it, maybe you should clean the front panel more better and not use it on a diagonal, unless you managed to achieve exceptionally good pointer balancing and are showing it off :)
With my old tube radios i put 110v bulb in series. it drops the voltage so its more like 220. And any shorts should make the bulb go open fast like a fuse.
Nice
Awesome 👍👍
Quite accurate for such an old instrument but most of the components are probably fairly stable and the working principle is based on first principles. No computer programs....
Its crazy these once huge tools can now be put into tiny chinese component testers
6:59 You can hear Diode's gettin irritated. No wonder. Getting that off had to be a pain.
I had to unscrew the terminal while keeping the solder on it molten...
Hey can you give a bit of history about this tesla company and where is it now?
Tesla was formed in 1946 by nationalizing and merging multiple Czechoslovak companies. It was destroyed in the early 1990s by the flood of cheap Chinese clutter. That's the history in short :).
Did I miss it or did DGW not explain why R9 had an additional resistor bodged in parallel?
I guess the sensitivity was too low without this resistor. The resistor helps to make it more sensitive by allowing the cathode voltage to be set lower.
thanks Dany
Na video o tomto prístroji som sa veľmi tešil a veru že sa bolo na čo tešiť, opäť super video, je to zaujímavé, s akým jednoduchým (myslené počtom súčiastok) prístrojom sa dá pekne zmerať kapacita a indukčnosť, pekne si ho dal dohromady, akurát by som sa asi nespoliehal na tie staré elektrolytické kondenzátory a vymenil by som ich za dvojicu povedzme 22uF/400V, takáto zvýšená kapacita by ešte podľa mňa nemala tej usmerňovačke robiť problém, nech sa vyjadrí niekto skúsenejší než ja, či by to bolo v pohode, ale to je na tebe, či tie konedenzátory vymeníš, ber to odo mňa len ako taký návrh. Na ďalšie videá sa budem taktiež tešiť, najmä na tie o ďalších historických elektrónkových prístrojoch, ale rád si pozriem aj video o tom spínanom zdroji, ktorý si vo videu ukázal.
Dík :). Já radši nechávám původní součátky, pokud nedělají problémy. Preventivně měním hnědé papírové kondíky h0vňáky, ale ne elektrolyty.
Tesla was the Hewlett Packard of the Soviets?
First of all, it was in Chechoslovakia 😅 Second, actually all communist countries had their own "hightech" technology companies. There was RFT for East-Germany, Unitra for Poland and Orion - EMG for Hungary and I'm sure the others had their own companies, too. Amoung these, if I had to choose, who was the eastern HP, then I think Orion - EMG was the top. But I might be a little biased here 😜
Could you make a constant current supply that uses an ATtiny85 microcontroller, a MOSFET, a current shunt, a potentiometer, and lastly Arduino code? (I have made such programmer)
A 0.96" OLED also would be cool but there might not be enough pins, so ATtiny84 might be better.
Interesting tube type numbers. Prefix is "american" (6 instead of E), the letters are "european" (CC for double triode, F for penthode, Z for rectifier), and number suffix I don't know. 3X would be an octal tube, miniature 7 pin types were 9X?
Was this Tesla specific?
I'm not familiar with american tubes, but Tesla was using type numbers starting with 6 for 6.3V heater tubes (and ended with numbers 30-39 for 7-pin glass tubes), but at some point started using E for 6.3V, so you find both types of numbering on Tesla tubes. Very commonly Tesla tubes also started with U for radios with heaters in series running at 100mA or with P for televisions with heaters in series running at 300mA.
@@DiodeGoneWild American tube type numbers were mostly random strings, except with most (but not all) tubes, the first number or two was the heater voltage.
The "european" type numbers were standardized, and told more about the tube. First letter was heater voltage or current, D=1.4V, A=4V, E=6.3V etc. The following letters told what the tube was: A=single diode, B=twin diode with common cathode, C=triode, D=tetrode, F=pentode, L=power pentode, etc. If more than one tube was in the envelope, you just combined the letters, for example PCL82 was triode+power pentode, etc.
A single digit after the letters meant the old 8pin "P" socket. With two or more digits, the first one usually indicated the socket, 2=loctal, 3=octal, 5=magnoval, 8=noval, 9=miniature 7 pin, etc.
For example EM80 is magic eye with 6.3V heater and noval socket.
Very good Video. Where is the schematics Sir?
I've added a link to the description ;)
بسیار آموزنده 👏
Please, Mr Dany, how can I get help from you, or get some attiny24 for ring tester?
That was a lucky way to fail. If it had been internal to the transformer it wouldn't have been so easily fixable.
Super video, jen tak dále. Neplánujete udělat nějaký sraz? všiml jsem si že máte zdroje z burzy z Frenštátu pod Radhoštěm :D
Ve Frenštátu pod Radhoštěm jsem nebyl, to bych měl hodně daleko :). Ty BS275 jsou z pozůstalosti jednoho pána z Prahy.
t00b amp restore plz
no explosion😕
Danke!
Thank you for your support ;)
Danke!
Thank you for your support ;)