Lineman Tip #7 - How to remove Crimpits
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- *Edit*
I've had a few comments questioning the removal of these crimpits to begin with... I don't recommend removing them under normal circumstances. They are not designed to be removed, and are better left untouched. Should you encounter a situation in which that crimp is in the way and its removal makes sense to you ... then here's a couple ways to do it ;)
Hey everyone! I was a little bit reluctant to release this video ... I'm not big into promoting improper use of tools and equipment but after several requests for it this week alone - Here it is!
The aluminum crimps a soft enough, I don't think it will cause any actual damage to your MD6. I would absolutely not try it however with a battery operated press of any type!
Keep in mind there is no actual work method for removing crimpits! It's not something you find yourself doing very often anyhow.
Please always abide by your employers rules and regulations.
#lineman #linemantips #lineworker
Audio courtesy of:
Country Cue 1 by Audionautix
RUclips audio
A totally professional guy. Absolutely amazing videos from a guy that knows his stuff.I hope the company you work for appreciates your skills and the commitment you give to your employer. I'm sure they do. I've learnt a lot from these videos. Well done mate I'm blown away!
John Wakely. Joint curator, television dept British vintage radio and television museum. London.
I now have wandered off to the unknown corners of the internet. A disabled Marine, that seems to spend all his time watching Farming videos, and now you're videos as well. I really enjoy your videos, even if I'll never be a lineman.
Crimpits were a great step up from the old split-bolt connectors. They were a devil to install especially with rubber gloves. First, the split-bolt had to be taken apart, then penetrox had to be applied to all the parts; the wires inserted in each opening then tightened. Over-tighten and you had to start all over again. Then they had to be wrapped with a special silicone pad and taped but they were easy to remove especially if you did not want to save them. Not so with a crimpit. Most times we just left them which was a mess.
We just call them Squeeze-Ons here in South Carolina. Always have used the old press tool to take them off. Never thought about the hacksaw. Love the videos man!
Thanks Joe! I've heard that term lost from guys around here as well
Anderson here!
Pump tool and cutting head
“How to remove an H tap”. Cut the lead. Move over 2 inches and put another tap. (We all know that’s what everyone does)Lol. Just busting chops. Good stuff dude. Love the channel.
Hahah it's true tho! I would only ever remove one if I was in a bind ... And that usually happens on 4/0 triplex!
As a designer, when I call for y'all to pull one of those, I know you're not going to unless you really have to. I'm doing it so some accounting weenie doesn't come in and try to bitch you out for the labor time to remove them if you have to.
And to be honest? I wouldn't remove em either in your shoes. Even having never done it, it seems like an incredible pain in the neck.
Thank you for sharing
I work for a utility and we use ampacts but come across the odd one of these installed by a contractor from a storm or something. you will need to remove one of these if a pole breaks or is due for replacement and new pole has to to go right beside the old pole because it will tied in where the connections are. better to remove one of these than a piece of wire and 2 sleeves and putting jumper on main line neutral in my experience! great video
You’re channel is awesome man. 10/10 recommend for any apprentice lineman
Here in Iowa, "Squeeze-ons" are aluminum, and "Crimpets" are copper. Nomenclature is very regional, for sure. Whenever we wanted to clean up a setting loaded up with a number of leftover squeeze-ons, we just junked it out and replaced the conductor. The best way to find yourself eating a squeeze-on is to hand one to your foreman when he asked for a crimpet. LOL Great vids!
Thank you for this video!!! I had to remove one for my setup because it interfered with a deadend shoe. Thanks for the tips!
I haven't forgotten about checking that grip for ya! I'll try and track one down this week 👊
@@Bobsdecline Thanks! I have a few pics to send if you are interested on my setup and other random things.
I had to do the same on a A5 deadened tap on an A4 with an OCR and I did it just like you showed on your video I got mine off but my foreman didn't think I knew how to properly so he went up in the bucket on the 2nd one, and tried to do the same thing I did but I guess he started his two low on the squeeze on and it wouldn't come off luckily we were able to get just enough wire through the shoe to make it work. Thank you so much for these videos man helps young guys like me learn proper working procedures.
The outtake was my favorite!
Yea I usually just leave them and move over, so far I’ve never had to remove one because of no room etc. but if I ever do I like using the crimping tool idea.👍 Ty for the knowledge !!
My dad who died more than a decade ago was a lineman. He would have loved your channel.
I just take the nose of my cordless crimper jaws and make a couple partial crimps in the middle of the tap side - 90 degrees from normal - and the line side pops right open. Use the center of the htap as a fulcrum. Basically just smash the tap side, you're cutting it off anyway.
I never knew what the marks were for on the squeeze-on , heck never noticed the marks. We had to use the good ol pop tool , on large conductors we had a hydraulic pop tool that was so heavy it was all i could do to lift it out of the bucket. I am so short i used to have an old wooden coke crate that i stood on in the bucket . The good old days , you do the bucket work i will be the ground man
It's been a long time since I've used the hydraulic pop tool! I remember thinking how lucky been were to have it! Now we've got a lithium battery one ... Still weighs a ton! But at least don't have to fight with the hoses!
2 Alligator Wrenches. Opposing pull. Peels them right off. 30 YEAR Lineman. #1928
The H tap is on the left
asked the groundman for the MD6 tool the other day, he had no idea what I was talking about. Battery tools are awesome!
this is exactly the kind of video I was looking for something that really shows the process of how one of these installations or whatever works
There's actually an attachment you can buy now that does this as well ... I have never seen one in person tho.These two methods shown seem to work most times. I've also removed crimpits using channel locks and twisting them off or simply a screwdriver and hammer! In reality, removing crimpits isn't something you should have to do very often!
Cutting head and anvil on a pump tool. Wings on both sides use fold down shims to adjust for wire size.
Aaron...
coming up and appreciate all the time ya put into this for us...
Thanks Anthony! This was a tough one ... One of those tricks that some guys will give ya flack for trying. 😬
Ahh ya know some just like to talk lol
But i see the good in everything...
I'm glad I found your video! It's exactly what I was looking for to understand the installation process. Your detailed explanation really helps. Keep up the fantastic work!
gulf power just cuts off the line that is attached bt the crimpit.
I use a little grinder w/ cut off wheel.
Ive even used a cordless dremal in a pinch
That's what I was thinking. Why not just use a cut off wheel or dremel?
@@kalijasin I do love my Dremel tool but if you aren't using it all the time it's very easy to go a bit too far. Also some materials it's actually faster to just use the hack saw - I've found that with cutting large bolts shorter, I can hack saw thru them by hand far faster than I can grind thru them (and it trashes the cutoff discs much faster than the saw blade). It would probably do the job though.
Ha ha I should’ve read further that’s just what I said above
There's nothing wrong with using tools for what they're not meant for you know like a screw chisel pry bar play monkey wrench hammer lol
🤣🤣👊
Home owner here, had a bad storm recently, a tree fell and ripped the drop from the transformer off my house. The weatherhead was destroyed. Could not have power reconnected until the weatherhead was replaced. I used an angle grinder with a cutting disk to cut these crimps off of the broke lines going into the mast so I could fit a new weatherhead.
Why not use a dremmel tool with a small grinding wheel?
That would certainly work best! Most truck wouldn't have that tool though, Infact most trucks only started carrying battery operated tools in recent years
@@Bobsdecline mine is corded. It's cheaper than the battery. But give it a try next time you have to cut an H crimp. By the way, I have the Ilsco hand H crimper. It was around $500.00. I'm a licensed electrical contractor in Cleveland ohio by the way.
Your videos have been a huge help. I'm just getting into the field and your videos have been super helpful. I really appreciate you for taking the time to show the various videos you have. Just know people like myself are finding these videos helpful.
Really appreciate the feedback ! 👊🍻
I'm green as hell, so your explanations and details on spot on. I would love to see videos on phasing and various transformer connections.
I would probably use an oscillating multi-tool
Since you mentioned not damaging the line, given all the things that can cause damage, what are the damage limits of a conductor before it needs to be repaired or replaced?
Sometimes you will see pitting in the aluminum after a large arc, and although that will reduce the ampacity in the lines I wouldn't worry about it in most cases. If even one strand is completely broken or burned through however it should be repaired. With multiple strands burned all the way through, or if the steel core is damaged it should be spliced out
@@Bobsdecline Great. Thanks
They deploy those from time to time to cover previous fuck ups 😭
and remember always A over C
Nailed it man! Good video we have been doing that for years with the older style pop tool! Keep up it man and always be safe!
You too man ! Thanks for the positive feedback 👊 👊
here in brazil, we use connectors.never seen this option.but I found it very good congratulations
Thanks! It's interesting hearing from all over and the different types of connectors that companies use.
Very rarely would I recommend removing this type usually we just cut the tail and leave em
Nice battery powered tool. We had to use hand pump tools on all our stuff. And after about three presses your arms hurt.
Deploy Neil Armstrong 😂
@@Dragon-Slay3r yeah, Greenlee hand press sucked! Especially while on a ladder in an 8" wireway.
If run into them here in sce territory I will pass on this info. Good looking on going step by step and your camera work
Can't imagine why removal would be required vs adding one nearby...but the hacksaw+screwdriver doesn't seem like it abused anything. Hacksaws are designed to saw thru stuff including metals (with proper blade) and the screwdriver is intended to apply torque to things, like you did twisting it in the slot.
Yeah, the other way probably is a tiny bit of abuse, probably depends on how much cost an alternative method would be as to how "bad" it is. If there is some situation where the alternative is some massive expensive operation maybe risking the tool is the most reasonable choice.
Still dunno why you'd need to remove one tho.
I may or may not know that husky presses can do it with ease. Milwaukee doesn't have the same pressure that husky does though.
Lol I’ve never even used a battery press before. I wish our company would provide them.
@@atrociousrabbit I bought my own, its 100% worth it honestly!
7:37 first time I ever heard him cuss
Dude I had one go screwy on me today, I got lucky in being able to remove it semi quickly
Dremel/Grinder with metal cut off disc would work very quickly at removing it as well if you have that in your arsenal.
If the line is de energized yes
If any aircraft mechanics are watching, please be advised that once a crimp is made to an aircraft control cable or electrical cable, the crimped section of the wire/cable must be cut off and replaced if it is ever necessary to remove the splice. Also, on insulated electrical wiring that is being stripped of insulation prior to crimping, any resulting damage or scraping of any strand of the conductor is grounds for rejection. Cut off the stripped section and start over, preferably with the correct stripper blades in a two-jaw stripper, or with a thermal stripper.
I'm IT guy, low voltage stuff, but the hacksaw method took less time to remove other peoples mistakes.
I've hacksawed a 48 port switch in half and the rest of the 24 ports still works. The output FPGAs are modular and the SoC does not care. Good engineering.
@@leozendo3500 I would love to hear more about that...be very amusing to have a "half rack" of equipment which instead of half height of full gear is like full height but cut in half vertically...
Привет ,Красиво я музыка Слава России жопа, Укроине
Sooo, do you ever get crap from your boss (or his boss) about using company supplies on these videos? I mean, scraps of wire is one thing but crimps, fuses, and other one-shot consumables will add up over time. Also... read through your channel and still haven't found the story behind Bobsdecline as a name.
Thank you for the vids. How often do you have to remove these? Also, if you can just cut off the extra wire, why do you have to remove it? It seems like there is no easy way to remove it without potential damage to the wire. Is there a product that you prefer for taps?
Hey Ryan! 99% of the time you would just leave it there. On primary we mostly use removable Ampact connectors. Sometimes you may find a neural connection was crimped on to the tension side of a service loop that needs sagged up after a pole transfer or trouble call... Technically it shouldn't be there in the first place, but at that point you would likely have to splice the triplex. Quick sleeves aren't designed for triplex, so removing the crimp can sometimes be easier/faster.
Personally I've removed crimps on very few occasions
Thank you for answering my question. I have been learning about all of the different products and tools used in the industry and have recently learned more about the Ampact connectors that you mentioned. It is really cool that the tool to install Ampacts is powder actuated. I have been around a lot of different tools in my life, but there are not to many that require a shell. Are there other devices in the utility industry that require a powder actuated tool? That could make for a cool video. Maybe combine it with exothermic grounding tools? Another very unique connector / tool. Do you use those?
@@MrRyanSchneider I have thought about videos on the Ampact.. it would certainly be a great idea! I would have to check into a few things first due the product being proprietary.
We use Cadweld for all of our grounding at substations and padmounted grounding.
We also have "piercing connectors" that are good for low voltage connections... They are a great product but very very expensive compared to H taps
@@Bobsdecline I hope you have a better contact list than me, along with distributers and suppliers willing to give you products, but I do have some contacts at TE and would try to get you anything you needed for a demonstration. Maybe showing multiple ways to tap from different vendors would keep it non-proprietary? ryan@mcavoy-markham.com
@@MrRyanSchneider in underground cable jointing i use spiking gun to cut into and prove the cable is dead, it uses a blank 44 cartridge to fire a large chisel into the cable to short out the cores to ground
Squeezeons
I love him
thats because i dont have a crimping tool or crimpits
that's why they make miracle bugs. these things should be obsolete, so much time wasted putting them on and very prone to failure, especially with an aluminum to copper connection.
What’s the reason to remove the H connector?
Most times it's when someone crimped one onto the line side of a wedge clamp and it's in the way to take some slack up out of them line.
A few other examples could be; not enough space on the wire when transferring a pole or to save having to splice a piece onto a customers loop if it's getting short
@@Bobsdecline Why not use a Dremel tool?
Absolutely could! There was quite a few requests for a vid on the MD6 technique. Not long ago, many of our crews had no battery operated tools and limited access to plugs in!
(Unless ya tapped right of the lines of course)
The single wall fell down they need to build a new wall for college road so I can feel it in my body 😭
I do the second way lol. But what he didn’t do that I do is I grab the top flap and peel it back like a sardine can and it comes off in 1 maybe 2 squeezes
I could have had that off in ten seconds. Cut the conductor off a couple inches out, usue your bolt bites and roll the old conductor out. Use a burndy tool O nose and crimp in the center. Then rock the tool back and forth and remove the H
Omg soo much work for nothing. Why don't use same thing but based on screws not pressing
Isn't there a danger of the hacksaw cutting the glove
Second method much like a fishing weight I’d imagine
Could save all that time and work to just use a dremel with a circular cutting bit.
Great video.. if u cut the jumper and leave like 4 inches of tail, then use ur bolt bites and roll out the load side to have and opening on load side of h-tap.. the squeeze the open side with the crimpt tool it will come off easy.. keep up the good videos
Yes, but your double the probability numbers for arcing damage initiation sites.
What if your trying to splice 2 wires of different sizes together, are there crimps for two different size wires available?
Great question! Yes crimps are available for almost every possible wire combination... Except for extreme difference in sizes
Interesting! I am not a line man so I didn't know that these things had to be removed once in awhile. In upstate NY the wire that is on the primary looks like what you were working with, I have a question about it. What kind of wire is it? Is it galvanized steel or hard drawn aluminum with some steel messengers in it for strength?
Most of our wire now is aluminum with a steel core. We do have all aluminum wire as well in some larger sizes. Actually I just had a broken pole this week we replaced that had 1/0 copper primary... Don't see that often anymore. Some of the areas outside my district still have a lot of copper weld .... Pretty much a very small steel coated in copper
Ya' know, they sell a set of dies to to do it properly.....
Squeezon. Cutting head on a pump tool.
Shouldn’t use the damn things anyway
my company calls them squeeze's
Would you recommend going to a training school or going
Straight into a apprenticeship??
james moretti hey thanks man for the information, I’m still in highschool and I am looking to go down this road when I am out. It interest me more than any other career path and I also heard it pays well😉 I also know that it is tough work and that you will have to go out in natural disasters or blistering heat and in the super cold, it all seems like a challenge but I believe I am ready for it!!
Wouldn’t that be like super easy with a little right angle grinder and a cut off wheel you slice that mark off in no time instead of having to use a hacksaw
i have never used them but nice tips
Milwaukee grinder>Hacksaw
Cordless angle grinder with a 1/16 thick metal cutting blade would make the cutting much quicker and easier than a hand held hacksaw.
H-type cutter dies on a 12 ton press.
Just use Amps. Problem solved.
I have the same hand saw like yours but never really got around to it. How do you like it
Works great! Easy to change blades. I don't use it often ... mostly to cut old grounds rods or large cables
Killin it with the tips, much appreciated 👍
Thanks man !
What about a battery powered angle grinder with a cut off wheel instead of the hacksaw ?
Don’t get bloody, cut towards a buddy. I’ve seen several instances where wire was cut nearly clean into.
Not being a lineman, I would use my battery powered (portable) Dremel with a cutoff wheel. Cut a slot +95% through, not to touch the cable and pry it off with a wide screw driver.
Thanks for subscribe
so why would you need to remove these from a line would it be to install another one in that same spot in a crowded area say when 10 homes powered on the same pig
The only place I've ever removed em was to sag up a line a little tighter where a crimp was in the way of the dead end clamp. Easier to remove then to add a piece of wire
Give us video on how to reuse a quick sleeve (Splice) in a pinch. I know how, don't know if a lot of people do.
Would never do this on a hot phase. The risk of breaking load if the phase parts is not worth the reward of not having an old crimp on the line.
Is this connector a " frog " or is that a different tap device ?
I just use a grinder and a cutoff wheel and cut it just like you did.
A Y37 press works too.
my company just uses crimp its on house serves
i really want to be a
WHY TAKE THEM OFF ?
you definitely want to use the companies battery tool to remove these H taps! it only works if you have fixed O dies in the nose of the tool
What's the GOO coming out of there?
it's called pennitrox it helps so it gets a better connection
Ur the man !
Why do you need to remove the crimpet? Can't not cut the jumper off & leave it on the main conductor? Love your channel, I have learned a lot about what is on the other side of the meter. I have been a electrician for 20 years before retiring. Bruce
99%+ of the time line crews do just that - this is for the one time in a thousand (perhaps due to congestion near the tap) it can't be done.
What's wrong with brute force and ignorance?.... Hammer and flathead works very efficiently. Great videos man
Thanks man! And yeah it totally does! I figured it might be a bit harder to demonstrate tho ....
"You just smack it here ,. Wait hang on. ... Pry it here ... Nope . Alright give it another smack! "
Haha 👊👊
Leave it on
Great videos! Appreciate the high quality work.
You guys are removing them?
Very useful idea,,,👍👍👍👍
So glad we use mechanical one bolts for all secondary connections and hot line clamps for all primary connections m. All mechanical. When you do a pole transfer you can clean all the connections off
Definitely nice when you can easily clean things up! I've got some real nasty backlot subdivisions that have so many crimps on the tx leads that if one burns up, I've gotta replace the whole lead.
Thanks for your sharing 👍
The hacksaw it's my last option
Why not just leave the crimpet on the line?????
We call em WR's here in Kansas, nice video man!
I haven't heard that one yet ! Thanks for sharing 👊
We call em squeeze ons here in southern Illinois
Hahaha I’m from Kansas and we call them squeeze on’s here
Better off using MD6
Besides aesthetics, what is the point of removing the crimpet?
They aren't designed to be removed, even for esthetics...
A situation where it may come in handy is when rebuilding a pole during trouble (broken pole rebuild, wires down, car accident etc...).
Where thing don't quite go back together exactly as planned. The crimpets may land exactly where your preform/wedge/shoe hold the wire. Removing the crimp can be a easy fix to get things up and running if the conditions are right ✌️
@@Bobsdecline Thedr cats asking you "why remove it ? One day they'll see BAM there's thay crimp rigjt in the way of what you mentioned. Hopefully they'll say Ahhh, thats why! I see what he was saying now! Guarentee, it won't go quickly their first attempts at it. You made it look very simple!
PEACE from Philadelphia
One thing I know about line work is that everything has about 3 names. We call them squeeze ons
Or 10! Like the eyelets! Lol
H blocks in Florida
Side by sides
Parallel grooves