The Ideal Edge for H2 Steel?
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
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We definitely need a fully serrated knife guy video like the tip down wet bread vid 😂😂
Was looking around for what kind of knife fully serrated knife guy would carry, and discovered Microtech made an OTF 4" dagger with full serrations on both edges. Probably breaks every Australian knife law, and would inspire some new ones. And a bit pricey for a one-off joke.
I was thinking the exact same thing.
Not to out myself but I use full Spyderedge for cardboard breakdown and it’s pretty perfect for the task. Old Endura in G2 and a Para3LW in BD1N.
Stays useful long past S30V, S35VN, and Aus10 plain edges. Cuts down and across corrugated cardboard for hours without lost performance, doesn’t get gummed up by tapes or adhesives.
After the Uncle Randy Buck 110 character, i think we need the full serrated blade guy! 🤣
As a denizen of the spyderco forums I approve this message.
Just realized how cool spyderco's look in yellow frn
Hey Pete I think from what I've read (came from Sal I think) the serrated version of H1 anyway is in the mid to high 60s in hrc at the teeth but quiet low at the spine due to the work hardening during the forming of the serrations this cannot be duplicated through hand sharpening, would not bother with H1/H2 in non serrated
Came here to say this.
h2 can handle edge angles MUCH lower than almost any other steel. it will make up for its edge retention with it’s ridiculous toughness.
Serrated EDC?
Well, every duck has a pond....
Thanks for the update, very useful. I have the Aqua Salt in H1, plain edge of course, and I am surprised how bad that steel “holds an edge”. You can sharpen it razor sharp, leave it in the holster for a couple of weeks without using it, and when you take it out again, it does not shave hairs anymore. I am amazed. Only reason I got it in the first place, was to have a useful dual use knife while kayak paddling. And I absolutely did not want to have a serrated blade. I will try to put an toothy edge on it and see if that helps. So thanks again
this steel absolutely needs course edges. it sucks with a razor or polished edge.
@@acid6urns thanks for the advice, I will definitely try that out 💪🏻
He'll rue the slander against the Breadknife Gang
The ONLY place a serrated edge is acceptable, nay, mandatory, is on a bread knife.
I think you’ve demonstrated why some people love H1/H2 (I not personally a fan) with a toothy edge it lasts a long time cutting rope and it’s really easy to touch up when it dulls. I think that property would be important when sharpening serrations because the sharp-maker is slow going.
I’ve also heard that many fans of the steel like the impact toughness, something about it not chipping when they cut dirty rope or materials with lots of rocks and or sand in it.
If you ever want to gaze into the abyss the spyderco forums have a pinned thread in the general topic forum all about Serrated edge performance, the evangelists of Serrations are as passionate as they are numerous many insisting that they carry all serrated edges all the time.
Spyderco has all the info you need about H2 on their site. Serrated is the only way to go with H2. I don’t even know why they bother making H2 plain edge anymore.
Hey Pete, you have definitely converted me to the EDC church of 17-degree-edge years ago when I started watching your videos. All my knives in my current collection are sharpened to 17-degrees per side. That said, I don’t have knifes softer than 8cr13mov and AUS8 (Honey Badger and RAT 2, respectively) but I have always given my budget steels a 600-grit finish. Toothy finish + 17-degree edge geometry has always been my formula to keeping cheaper blades almost on par with my knives in XHP, s30v, s35vn, etc., etc… performance-wise.
What about a dual grit Edge, Gabe (the home slice) says that a dual grit edge benefits a lot low alloy simple steels...
That's fake
@DinoNucci it is absolutely not fake. Check out the ScienceOfSharp article where you can see that it produces a very large and sturdy "burr" with good geometry for extended edge retention. He has some excellent photos showing how it works.
I mean, he got them scanned under a scanning electron microscope and it turns out he created a "good" burr. A longer length of thinner metal nearish the apex so that it takes longer to dull, but it's not so thin that it bends or breaks. I doubt this steel could hold it though if it can't hold 17 degrees@@DinoNucci
Guess I’ll wait for H3
Hi Pete! You sure you're treating shapton grit numbers right? I beleive they are marked in JIS scale, where 500 is roughly equal to F320 FEPA-F scale.
I have this exact knife and keep it in the kitchen for cutting sandwiches or veggies but never carry it as my everyday knife and probably never would
I hate absolutely hate serrated knives
I’m definitely not a fan of them either. I just never find myself needing serrations in my day to day.
If you ever tried a H1/2 in serrated version it would change your mind. Blows away any knife steel in a cut test.
@@miked6367 I have used many serrated knives in my life and sharpen many of them too I don't care what steel it's in I hate it I especially hate knives with normal and a serrated parts to a single blade
hows your shoulder brother? stone polishing edges isnt for the faint of heart
I don't particularly think owning 2 out of over 800 folding knives being fully serrated (Endura 4 & Matriarch 2 in VG10) makes me a wet bread enjoyer 😂... unless you also consider Sal Glesser to be an enjoyer of moistened baked goods for continuing to offer "Spyder Edge" blades on a slew of models he designed.
They're more for specific use cases rather than encompassing EDC tasks though, like cutting rope or other fibrous materials at arms length where maximum "bite" can really help (more often than not in aquatic environments... might be why old school plain-edge H1 Salts were much less common).
Or in the Matriarch/Civilian's case, ripping through cloth to access the meaty bits inside for maximum damage.
It's DEFINITELY not going to be anyone's one-and-done choice, and they SUCK to sharpen when that time comes, but they can be fun from time to time.
Serrated blades make more sense than tip down carry.
Why not a dual grit edge?
Pulled up the stumps?! HOWZAT?!
Look who's busting out cricket metaphors! :)
Update:.Knife Steel Nerds has an article about H1 and H2 steels. Expected hardness is about 58HRC and measured apex sharpness a bit lower. It's an austenitic steel and is quite interesting. Leaving original wrong comment bellow for the discussion to make sense.
H2 has only 0.1% carbon. Sounds like an excellent pot steel that cannot be hardened.
If you need top tier corrosion resistance LC200N has 0.3% carbon and certainly achieves much better hardness
H2 serrated has mid to high 60’s hrc. It’s a completely different beast over the plain edge.
@@patricksmatrick6193 60HRC with only 0.1% carbon? That is without tempering right?
@@thiago.assumpcao In plain edge, I think I've read way lower HRC for H1.
It's air tempered and hardened through use and belt sharpening.
LC200N is far better at plain edge.
This explains it better and here's the source.
"Crucible Specialty Metals tested at least two Spyderco H1 knives, one plain edged, another with SpyderEdge and even though the spines were still 58HRC, the edges measured 65HRC and 68HRC respectively. That's really high by any standard. And according to the same source, H1 doesn't become brittle at that hardness. The only thing is, it's not quite clear how to use it to induce that work hardening. Cutting abrasive materials to cause friction is supposed to do the trick, but based on the later feedback, it's not that simple. Sharpening by hand is in theory very much friction inducing work, except you're removing metal and apparently doesn't increase H1 steel edge hardness either. Belt grinders do increase H1 hardness though. Given those two statements, you can deduce yourself, how fast you'd have to cut abrasive mediums to cause hardness increase.
zknives.com/knives/steels/steelgraph.php?nm=h1
@@patricksmatrick6193 Interesting. Based on your comment I decided to do some research on H1 to try to understand what is happening. There is an article on Knife Steel Nerds about it- " H1 Steel - How it Works".
Its not a martensitic steel like most other knife steels so it doesn’t behave as you would normally expect. Being an austenitic steel it can get harder if it suffers plastic deformation with cold working. The hardness of 57 on spine from crucible was confirmed on Spyderco tests but according with Spyderco the hardness on the edge was only 55 HRC. Larin thinks that makes more sense.
@@thiago.assumpcaoh1/2 are NOT heat treated. at all. they are hardened by repeated cold rolling. this is not a steel like your 1095 that you just slap in a forge and then quench dude. h1 and h2 are austenitic stainless steels that use cold rolling and work hardening to get their hardness numbers.
Very interesting!
thanks for shwoing
Full serrations are okay. Partial serrations are not.
Wrong
Serrated egdes- edges for steels that absolutely couldn't get the job done otherwise
Another guy who never actually cuts material, just plays with his knives on the couch 😂 serrated blades have a perfect place in work roles, serrated H1 shits on any knife steel out there for actual long cutting work.
@@miked6367 Oh yeah look at all those butchers, chefs, fishmongers, carpenters, surgeons, tailors, farmers, field workers, and leather workers all out there with their serrated knives! Wait, no, thats not actually the case at all. In fact it seems like every profession that uses knives for production actually prefers plain edge knives, how interesting.
Serrated knives are better for rope, seatbelts, insulation, and bread only. In just about every other case you're better off with a normal plain edge that can be quickly and easily sharpened
@@Ajaxykins did i serrated edges are better than plain edges for everything hero? They have there place for for us who work on boats and around the ocean. And they can be sharpened in 60 seconds. I've used them for over a decade and the serrated H1 simply pisses on any straight edge supersteel out there, hate all you want. They aren't for RUclips knife bros who cut paper, cardboard and rope non stop to compare numbers. Go to the Spyderco forum and see real reviews from guys who actually use them day in and day out for specific roles. Keep flicking you flipper tab and scroll to the next video mate.
Good serrated edges need far less sharpening and are far more useful than most give it credit for. I wouldn’t even bother sharpening it. Just send it back to Spyderco for a fresh edge. Benchmade on the other hand won’t even sharpen their serrated edges on the life sharp program and is a bad look in my opinion, so I won’t even touch those because I hate trying to sharpen serrated edges.
PizzA
🤘🏻🐈⬛🤘🏻
1rd
Do the exact same test with LC200n, same edge, cut until it's not cutting rope well, etc
You do it
@@DinoNucci That would add too many additional variables. The whole point of a control is to have a baseline to evaluate if your results are significant, and Pete is the best person to replicate his own test with one element changed.
@@willydstyle no
H2 might be the worst steel spyderco has ever used haha...
BD1/BD1N isn't far behind. I wish they'd just go with 14c28n for their base model American knives.
Worst? I've used H1 for over 10 years near the coast, they last forever, zero maintenance and a serrated H2 will destroy any knife steel in cutting work. Literally lasers through material while all my other "supersteels" start crying. I bet 90% of u knife guys don't even cut things, just form opinions based on knife bro reviews on RUclips 😂
@@miked6367 Do you need reading comprehension classes? Compared to all the other steels Spyderco uses, YES H2 MIGHT be the worst....MIGHT...Hey guys, we found the one guy on the interwebs that loooooves H1/H2, can we get him a medal? or maybe a cookie?
@@paullmight42 did i hurt your feelings mate 😂 yeah give me a cookie, i can eat it while i read these amusing salty comebacks.
@@miked6367 good one...
You really should test a full SE blade because those are sharpened with a chisel grind, so you get a single 15 degree edge bevel, combined with the primary bevel of about 5 degrees they're usually around 20 degrees inclusive, which is one reason Spyderco SE blades can slice better than PE.
You should make a vid about serrated knife people kinda like you did tip down pocket clip people
This steel is great for us who actually need it, working near and in the ocean. My serrated H1/H2 knives completely destroy any of my other supersteels in cutting work, and i mean destroy. I even love using the plain edge version, 400 grit, great for cutting everything that doesn't need super abrasion resistance, if it gets dull it's razer sharp in 60 seconds on the sharpmaker or any of my bench stones. It definitely has it's place, its not for office workers who like to cut cardboard for cut tests non stop tho, its purpose built.
I truly love the new endings to your videos
Hey Pete, my all time favorite knife is the fully serrated Delica in K390. I carry one every day, in addition to a plain edge knife. I'd love to see you do a sharpening video on a fully serrated Spydie edge knife.
I believe that your best option is to send it to spyderco for resharpening.
Definitely, I did that and they did a great job on it.
Most people just use a sharpmaker with diamond or cbn rods
One of my all time favorite cardboard cutters was ZDP-189 in full SE.
Appreciate the test Pete
If you consider plain edge knives as the Vegemite of the knife world, then Serrated edges are the Marmite - looks disgusting until you try it, but once you’ve had a taste you realise it is in almost every measurable metric superior to its antipodean cousin.
Get a Jumpmaster 2 and revel in its Marmite glory!
*this is not a micro aggression, this is a joke 😉
I think the H2 would be for very specific needs (what those are I have no idea). But for "normal knife users" I don't see any reason to get the H2 now that Magnacut is also offered in the Salt series.
Ever thought about testing out a micro-bevel on this steel? Sometimes they can really transform a knifes performance
Cedric Bixler-Zavala
What kind of grit finish does everyone prefer on Seki Spyderco VG-10? I know they dont run their hardness as high as japanese gyutos in the same steel. Im running my Delica freehand around 15° per side oh Suehiro Cerax 1000 and strop. It will roll on certain cuts though, but it cuts super nicely.
The Salty bugger, reviews serrated H2, featuring snide remarks from Bricky.
I'm still just starting down the rabbit hole, but from what I've read, the Shapton Glass and Rockstar (essentially thicker SG not on a glass backing) series are more accurate in their grit rating compared to their Kuromaku line. I guess differences like this led to the creation of the Grand Logarithmic Grit Chart
Maybe a good candidate for poop knife. Won't corrode in the bathroom, maybe serrated is better for turds. More testing is needed.
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"Pete, you're a good egg." - Brad Pitt
Keep em coming!
Cool update!
Btw, I’m one of the people that often carries a fully serrated knife.
Hey Pete, for your toothy edge on this knife dit you keep the 17° angle?
yeah the same, well as same as the sharpie trick and freehand can be, but eyeballed it in pretty well
le first xddd
i find it really hard to believe that this steel couldn’t handle a 17 degree edge, when there’s tons of people who own it who run it all the way down to even things as ridiculous as 10dps.