Hi! Thanks for the review. Setting the Origin: With the Power Off, move the machine to the front left against the hard stops by hand, then Power On. The origin is now set. There is no home function because there are no homing switches. Setting the origin at power on is all you need. Thanks again!
The focus process doesn’t involve removing the plastic shroud. There’s a notch around back (on the open side of the plastic shroud) and that is where the measuring rod fits in. Pretty easy but maybe it wasn’t explained well in the manual.
Hey David,great video and content again,I love your methods on here,you'd be a great instructor. I have the Atomstack A5 Pro so I don't need a repeat of it lol,but I did order the Atomstack A5 Pro +,waiting for it to arrive,can't wait for it,seems to be a lot more user friendly than the predecessor.Looking forward to more of your laser unboxing and tests.
Summer time I am using my Longer laser outside. Doing a large print, the flame detector would go off just showing the borders. I was under a canopy, but something was setting off the detector. (Even with tape over the eye.") You should never do that I know. Before fall comes I need to make a cabinet for it with the fan and exhaust. I see another said the focusing block goes in back of the head.
Hello David I have recently gotten a Longer Ray5 5w laser. I am trying to do test runs using the Light Burn Software. In this video you mention that it was between 5 to 8 passes to cut through the wood. What speed was that at? I assume that was at 100% power also. I have realized while I can go up to 2000 speed the best engraving on plywood for me is at 100s and 100p is this about normal for the Ray5? Thanks for the great review video.
Hi, I'm entering this world for the first time, I've seen dozens of videos but I'm still not sure which machine to start with. My primary aim is to have a machine that cuts EVA FOAM for me because I want to improve the quality of my works as a cosplayer, I realize that most of the videos are aimed instead at the engraving part. Which machine, obviously NOT PROFESSIONAL, would you recommend? Thanks very much in advance for your reply
If your focus is cutting EVA foam then you have many options. If a standard work area of around 400x400 mm works for the types of pieces you need to make then any standard 10 to 30 watt machine will work. The foam doesn’t require a lot of power to cut. More power would just mean you could cut faster. In the standard sizes, xTool or Atomstack would be good. Something with air assist would also be good. If you need a cutting area larger than 400x400, like 400x800 then Neje, Atomstack and xTool can work. Look at Atomstack x7 or x20, Neje 3 max or xTool d1 pro 10 or 20watt. Atomstack and xTool offer e set soon kits, the Neje 3 max is already a larger work area machine. Hope this helps.
Hey David , I love watching your videos. I have a Cnc router that I run on Masso 40 x 28. I’m thinking of adding a laser head to it, to cut leather and plywood, is there any brand that you would recommend?
Hi John, Thanks for watching the video. I think you'd definitely want to go with a 10w laser head like one from the Atomstack X7 Pro or similar. The 10w head will give you the best functionality with the current tech. Leather should be no problem, the deepest I've been able to cut into plywood (good quality Baltic birch) has been about 9mm and that took several passes. I have been able to cut up to 12.5mm solid pine so far. An air assist might help to cut deeper but I haven't tested a 10w laser that has had air assist yet.
I know I'm late to the party and this may have already been addressed. But in reference to the annoyance of focusing the laser..... you have a laser cutting machine... why don't you measure the length from the bottom of the shield to the substrate. Use these dimensions to make jigs out of acrylic to measure from the bottom of the shield. You could make as many different measuring jigs as you need. Flat objects, curved, sloped... etc... just me thinking out loud.. err.. online..
I’m afraid you didn’t do the focusing correctly, you simply put the aluminum cylinder in the back, there is a cut out in the cover for that. Very easy. Never get the safety cover off.
I always use safety glasses when using the laser. The convenience of not having to reach behind the laser head is more important to me but either way works. Just be safe. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Please don't take my comment the wrong way. Every review I have looked at lacks the same thing, which I think is very importment to a potential purchaser. I ask these questions not just about this laser but any of them. Is there a warranty? What is and what is not covered under the warranty? Does the manufacture provide tech support? Does the manufacture provide replacement parts both in warranty and out of warranty. I have never seen this information in any review. ?????
Hi! Thanks for the review. Setting the Origin: With the Power Off, move the machine to the front left against the hard stops by hand, then Power On. The origin is now set. There is no home function because there are no homing switches. Setting the origin at power on is all you need.
Thanks again!
0:10 - Introduction, unboxing and assembly
4:28 - Key features
9:40 - Engraving and cutting examples
14:42 - Homing the machine
16:57 - Flame detector function
18:15 - WiFi
19:40 - Pros and cons
24:07 - Closing
The focus process doesn’t involve removing the plastic shroud. There’s a notch around back (on the open side of the plastic shroud) and that is where the measuring rod fits in. Pretty easy but maybe it wasn’t explained well in the manual.
I missed that part. Thanks for filling in the blanks for me!
I was going to comment that also. All the videos I saw on this machine except this video shows, how you described it.
Hey David,great video and content again,I love your methods on here,you'd be a great instructor. I have the Atomstack A5 Pro so I don't need a repeat of it lol,but I did order the Atomstack A5 Pro +,waiting for it to arrive,can't wait for it,seems to be a lot more user friendly than the predecessor.Looking forward to more of your laser unboxing and tests.
Thanks so much Jim. I've got more in process
Great Job David, very informative and very well presented.
Thank you Hamp!
Summer time I am using my Longer laser outside. Doing a large print, the flame detector would go off just showing the borders. I was under a canopy, but something was setting off the detector. (Even with tape over the eye.") You should never do that I know. Before fall comes I need to make a cabinet for it with the fan and exhaust. I see another said the focusing block goes in back of the head.
Great review. Thank you for the information.
Thanks for watching David
Hello David I have recently gotten a Longer Ray5 5w laser. I am trying to do test runs using the Light Burn Software. In this video you mention that it was between 5 to 8 passes to cut through the wood. What speed was that at? I assume that was at 100% power also.
I have realized while I can go up to 2000 speed the best engraving on plywood for me is at 100s and 100p is this about normal for the Ray5?
Thanks for the great review video.
Hi, I'm entering this world for the first time, I've seen dozens of videos but I'm still not sure which machine to start with.
My primary aim is to have a machine that cuts EVA FOAM for me because I want to improve the quality of my works as a cosplayer, I realize that most of the videos are aimed instead at the engraving part.
Which machine, obviously NOT PROFESSIONAL, would you recommend?
Thanks very much in advance for your reply
If your focus is cutting EVA foam then you have many options. If a standard work area of around 400x400 mm works for the types of pieces you need to make then any standard 10 to 30 watt machine will work. The foam doesn’t require a lot of power to cut. More power would just mean you could cut faster. In the standard sizes, xTool or Atomstack would be good. Something with air assist would also be good. If you need a cutting area larger than 400x400, like 400x800 then Neje, Atomstack and xTool can work. Look at Atomstack x7 or x20, Neje 3 max or xTool d1 pro 10 or 20watt. Atomstack and xTool offer e set soon kits, the Neje 3 max is already a larger work area machine. Hope this helps.
Hey David , I love watching your videos.
I have a Cnc router that I run on Masso 40 x 28. I’m thinking of adding a laser head to it, to cut leather and plywood, is there any brand that you would recommend?
Hi John, Thanks for watching the video. I think you'd definitely want to go with a 10w laser head like one from the Atomstack X7 Pro or similar. The 10w head will give you the best functionality with the current tech. Leather should be no problem, the deepest I've been able to cut into plywood (good quality Baltic birch) has been about 9mm and that took several passes. I have been able to cut up to 12.5mm solid pine so far. An air assist might help to cut deeper but I haven't tested a 10w laser that has had air assist yet.
I know I'm late to the party and this may have already been addressed. But in reference to the annoyance of focusing the laser..... you have a laser cutting machine... why don't you measure the length from the bottom of the shield to the substrate. Use these dimensions to make jigs out of acrylic to measure from the bottom of the shield. You could make as many different measuring jigs as you need. Flat objects, curved, sloped... etc... just me thinking out loud.. err.. online..
I’m afraid you didn’t do the focusing correctly, you simply put the aluminum cylinder in the back, there is a cut out in the cover for that. Very easy. Never get the safety cover off.
I always use safety glasses when using the laser. The convenience of not having to reach behind the laser head is more important to me but either way works. Just be safe. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Please don't take my comment the wrong way. Every review I have looked at lacks the same thing, which I think is very importment to a potential purchaser. I ask these questions not just about this laser but any of them. Is there a warranty? What is and what is not covered under the warranty? Does the manufacture provide tech support? Does the manufacture provide replacement parts both in warranty and out of warranty. I have never seen this information in any review. ?????
Hi, this is Rock Rooster Footwear. We sent you an email about cooperation inquiry. Would appreciate it if you could have a check. Thanks!