Ford Mustang (1994 - 2004) - Replace the front strut
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
- Do you need to Replace the front strut on your Ford Mustang (1994 - 2004) but don't know where to start? This video tutorial shows you step-by-step how to do it!
Our Buick LaCrosse (2005 - 2013) manual covers petrol engines, and includes videos for some of the most common jobs, which you can see here in this playlist. Get the full manual haynes.com/en-...
What's covered:
Ford Mustang Haynes Repair Manual for 1994 thru 2004 covering all models
PLEASE NOTE that this manual is intended for vehicles built to US specifications and do not cover diesel models unless specifically stated. Although it is useful when the products or systems are similar to those in other markets, there may still be significant differences, especially in areas concerned with safety and emission control.
Exclusions:
Does not include information on independent rear suspension/driveaxles in 1999 and later Cobra models or information on the 2003 and 2004 Cobra models
Thank you for the video! I'm just getting to know my mustang. With Thanks to you it is very easy. Sorry for my English))
There's no need to mark the alignment of the strut! As you can see, there's no possible adjustment to it. You've got two tight fitting bolts determining it's location. For anyone wondering about this setup, it's a MacPherson suspension that uses the inner strut rod as a bearing for pivoting of the front wheels when turning. The inner strut rod always remains stationary. Hence the rubber bushings and that is all that is required here. The bushing stack is as follows, bare strut rod, then a bushing that fits against the plastic bellow, then a metal cap with rubber on top (factory combined the rubber with the metal here) with the new part design. At this point in the stack you go ahead and install the strut, now for up top you've got a metal sleeve and one more dome shaped rubber bushing, then the huge washer and nut. There's also no need to mess with the mounting plate bolts up top.
One of the spindle holes has enough slop in it to allow for 1 degree of camber movement. Most aftermarket suspension companies recommend installing bolt bolts loose and then pushing the strut body inwards and tightening the bolts. This allows you to disassemble in the future without needing an alignment again. Since most folks don’t know this, who knows what the previous installer did (if not ford) so marking isn’t a bad idea. For folks with coil-overs, they may loosen these two bolts and pull the strut body outwards to gain clearance on the rim to the strut mounted coil spring. Usually gains you about 1/2” of clearance due to the additional positive camber at the spindle. You’d need to realign at the top caster/camber player afterward.
Does anyone have the whole front suspension torque specifications. I have an 03 mustang Gt. I have the book but I’m Not finding everything. Could really use some help doing a huge project tomorrow.
You are correct about no need to mark the bolts for alignment. They are not slotted and the camber is set at the top of the mounting plate. I own a 2000 mustang and was in the Alignment business for over 30 years.
I’m just not sure about sliding the wheel center cap on that concrete floor, face down…..
Yeah that was a no no in my book. I don't want him near my center caps.
Homie is old school, he not even using an impact.
worthless video didnt show bushings and sleeve that goes on strut first. working on another mans teardown and bushings need to go on first
What’s the labor time for this job
My mechanic charges $280 just to change those out
Wow lmao mine chargers 40 for 1
We know how to take a wheel off. Get to the sspension