Hey Leona ^^, just wanted to give a big shoutout for your incredible content and super helpful tutorials! Your unique blend of character and humor adds so much fun to your videos, making them an absolute joy to watch. It's clear that you put a ton of effort into creating engaging and informative content that resonates with your audience. Keep up the fantastic work! Looking forward to more of your awesome videos. 🎉🥰
hearing you say that your usual videos are only surface level instruction is insane. I've been watching your videos for a long time. I'm not a garage kit artist. I'm a painter. the garage kit community is very lucky to have you.
Honestly, I'm always happy to see a notification that our Resin Queen has posted a new video! I'm going to admit, pinning still seems really intimidating, but somehow the way you explained it and also showed what you were explaining really did set a lot of those 'catastrophe-level' thoughts at ease! Definitely looking forward to everything you'll be doing next!
I like the idea. This works well for wings and capes. Pinning hollow 1:6 scale and bigger models is a little more tricky. Cause you know, they're hollow.
Let me just say I absolutely love your content your humor and your telented as hell. keep up the good work. I'm 40 year old woman, I look forward to each and every one of your videos.
You got this one out super fast, and pinning does seem so scary at first but is so worth it in the long run. Especially when packing figures if you ever move, moving is such a pain!
How do metal pins fare with multiple reassemblies? I don't think I've seen anything like this on mass produced PVC figurines, so I wonder what advantages and disadvantages these pins have. They don't look too appealing on the surface, that's for sure.
As an on-again-off-again 3d modeler who makes their own 3d-print GKs, I have a tip for 3d modelers who intend to sell their models as printable kits: 99 times out of a 100, you and your customers will print your models hollowed out if they're printing in resin. Take that into account when splitting up your models into parts. Make either a spherical, or better yet cylindrical, subtraction from both sides of corresponding parts--depending on the size of the part. These perfectly aligned dimples make drilling holes for pinning super easy. And cylindrical guides are even better because even if the kit is hollowed out, the wall thickness will still provide some body inside the hollowed out part for the pin to grab onto, so long as you/your customer don't use too thin a wall thickness, and use too big of a drill/pin.
This is the worst advice for when adding connections to parts. Your worst enemy in assembling and putting your parts together is that they correctly align and stay in place, if you put a cylindrical key on an arm, a leg or head, the parts will swivel out of place and you don't want that. Very few kits I've worked with had cylindrical keys and I've had to cut them to give them an edge so that it will stay in the correct position. Unless the parts have a section to stop the part from swiveling, this is not the way to do it.
@@leonasworkshop It's not a key, it's a void, on both sides of the parts. Meant specifically for pins to go directly into. Either with a little bit of putty filler if the void is too large because someone went and upscaled the 1/12 scaled model 200% into a 1/6 scale. Or to use a drill to widen the pre-made holes to fit their pin gauge exactly. Sorry what I tried to explain wasn't clear enough. I was trying to describe a method of adding pin guides in addition to keys.
Super hype for those next two videos! If you haven't looked into Tenacious resin by Siryatech look into it! It might help with you issues you have with 3D prints being too brittle and not having that "soft" feel.
This is super helpful! The putty idea is a great idea for awkward pieces. Magnets have the uses if you have face plates to switch but I prefer wire for anything else. So much cheaper to use wire. Also love the shirt! Super excited for the next video you have planned. Love the way you build your kits.
Really enjoy the more technical vids you put out, especially this one. I appreciate you taking the time to break it down. Sometimes the WHY is more important than the HOW for me, found this fascinating. ❤
Thanks for your video Resin Queen. I got a few kits from my brother, and after watching your first video (and this video) i feel A LOT more confident attempting my first pinning. ❤❤❤
Thank you for doing another pinning video. I always love your content and authenticity! Now to work up the courage to pin and repair the limbs on some model horses that “jumped” off their shelf.
Thank you so much for an updated overview of all these videos showing these processes. I know you have some in the past, but I've always been hesitant to get into the hobby, but now I feel much more confident to give it a try!
Speaking of broken pegs. I fixed some broken pegs on my plastic models large and small doing this. They were even for moving parts and they are just fine now!
I have some of my first kits on their way to me and I’m so excited to work on them!! You’ve been a huge inspiration and an incredible resource, thank you SO so much for everything 💜 I also love that Yoko was used as an example in this video, ttgl is a very special series to me
9:53 "Paint would strip away". Glue on paint, I will admit it, I do that sometimes, didn't think of everything when I paint before putting all together. For me, when I put glue on paint, around the glue there can be a whitening effect on the paint, not stripped away. I wonder why the glue does this on paint?
Gracias por todo! Love your videos, and thank you for going into detail. Some things are difficult to figure out such as primer, or mixing different paint
Hello and good morning/day/night. I was wondering if you have any tips for making bases to replace any broken ones or dramatically oversized ones? I understand your kit/figs are custom, but I've had ideas of possibly replacing bases on figures/statue figs. Like would it be as simple as simply creating a resin replacement and then drilling holes for pegs. Or are there more factors I need to know. Because in some cases the bases are so thin and cheap I figured weight wouldn't really be too much of a problem.
Thank you for making this video. I know how important pins are. I made my own anime figurine and I forgot to put a pin in when I was 3D. Modelling one piece and oh my God I was frustrating dealing with it afterwards and I didn’t wanna reprint the whole figure.
Hi Leona, I love your work and got into printing off my own figures and painting them because of your videos. You've been such a helpful resource and I'm very thankful for the in depth information. It always looks easy in videos made by someone with so much experience, but much harder to do in reality hahaha I do have a question that is probably a no brainer for you but... the thing i've found stupid hard is going back to sand a piece that primer showed where I missed spots. Removing the primer has been so time consuming and frustrating, I just wanted to know if there was a tried and true method you use. I don't watch a lot of stuff on youtube but you're one of like two people that I watch every video for after a friend shared your work with me. Recently another friend decided to get into GKs and asked me for tips and tools, and I was only able to help because of you. I know you got into the hobby/artform at a much less accessible time, so it is especially meaningful to be able to benefit from all the hard work you've put in learning this craft when there WEREN'T easy answers and the scene was so gatekeepy. Thank you for sharing what you know, and I'm excited to see those deep dives. It's also so cool to see a creator and artist from my generation of anime fans still dedicated to the oldies. I was so pleasantly surprised to see the Ayashi no Ceres framed animation cel. That's one of my favorite manga and no one really talks much about it these days. It's awesome to see an old school shoujo lover out there. Anyway, thank you for the wonderful videos and keep up the good work!!
As someone with a Warlord Titan (that I had to weigh down further to stabilize the balance) and lives in San Diego at the moment ....."falling to pieces without pinning" is quite an understatement.
Hi there! I love how helpful and accessible your videos are. It’s definitely helped me figure out what I need to start tackling the kits I’ve bought. Recently however I bought a kit that has a number of clear parts for the base! How would I go about pinning something like that?? I’m going to tackle some of my easier kits first because I’m so worried about screwing it up lol. Any advice would be so appreciated. I want to find a way to pin her and figure out some way to give her a diamond’s holographic kind of shine.
Thank you so much Leona for your content and very helpful videos. I am new to the world of 3d shapes and really want to learn everything you show in your videos. Thank you very much for your hard work and great content.
Hey paisana 😊 queria agradecerte por esto del pining...justo estos dias andaba viendo tus videos y de otros buscando el como....y justo hoy subiste el video 😅
Spooky. Recently a picture frame dropped onto my garage kits. That Kotobukiya Yoko mostly wasn't pinned and she lost quite a few parts. But next to that Yoko, an Amie-Grand Triela, which is my most recent kit, stayed undamaged. She was built with a mix of pinning and magnets. I've lost too many unpinned kits to gravity in the past, I now always try to pin.
Thank you so much for this video and explaining magnets vs not. I can totally see using those for swap parts stuff or if you have a kit that you are shipping out that needs reassembly (maybe?) The tutorial was really helpful! Is there still a shortage issue on the mustard putty? I didn't think about using epoxy putty, but that might work too. Just heavier? Love all that you do and having other super in depth tutorial videos is always awesome!!❤
Your previous video on pinning is what I used as a reference! However, watching this one helped me understand a bit more also :) (I'm really dumb so lots of visuals help like this did!) Thank you for all the information!! Also -- I wouldn't mind seeing more of the painting! But, would it be only airbrush painting?? I don't want to invest in an airbrush right now since I don't really have an area for one and currently have army painter type acrylic paints (they're for minis), so most of my questions are like for hand-painting. Example: Is there a certain type of paint that I should try? What do you recommend for hiding or minimising brush strokes? (If at all possible LOL)
First time seeing the videos-instant subscribe, love the video. But! I gotta question...when I print out the figures, I usually hollow the figure and have drain holes. It looks like the figures you were instructing with were solid, so how does one pin a hollowed 3d printed resin figure?
I'm having trouble figuring out which size wire to use that will perfectly match a drill bit. I've tried using 24 and 20 gauge wire, but none of the bits I have match it well. The wire is always loose. What thickness wire and bits do you use for smaller pieces?
What I am curious is... is this common practice to pin the pieces and also glue.. considering that after you glue - you can't take it back - so might regret doing that (like if I change house packaging etc etc) so how do you decide to glue pieces which also has pin. Thank you as always
The rotary tool she's using is a discontinued model, the "DREMEL® Micro (8050-35)." I’ve tested several alternatives, including the Proxxon MicroMot 60/EF and the Dremel Lite 7760, but ultimately settled on the: WORX 8V WX106 with a drill chuck. By the way, the new Dremel version is significantly worse than both of these in every category, from handling to power.
For 3D printed kits I found info that you could drill resin (not hollow) before post curing and it would be softer. I haven't tried it yet, don't know if you want to try it or even came across this info.
Is that a cardboard cat scratching board to the right under the fluorescent light? If so, what are you using it for? (I'll assume it is not for the cat if it is on the desk)
Is there a rotary tool other than Dremel of Kapoo that I can use as an alternative? Or can you tell me what I should I seek for a suitable rotary tool?
The rotary tool she's using is a discontinued model, the "DREMEL® Micro (8050-35)." I’ve tested several alternatives, including the Proxxon MicroMot 60/EF and the Dremel Lite 7760, but ultimately settled on the: WORX 8V WX106 with a drill chuck. By the way, the new Dremel version is significantly worse than both of these in every category, from handling to power.
It would be interesting if she does a "horror" video of building a resin kit thw wrong way like those old retro horror movie trailers like "The Blob" or "The Thing"
Hey Leona! I had a question about the magnets - either i'm gaslighting myself or you mentioned in a previous video you bought your magnets from a specific place, and I was unable to hunt down which video that was. Where do you get your magnets? is it just off of amazon?
Thank you so much for the quick reply! I'll get to nosing around since these look so much nicer than what I was finding on amazon lol. @@leonasworkshop
if it's already painted, leave it be. Magnets are used on prepainted resin statues to prevent any breakage in transit and easy assembly. This is only for when you're the one painting the kit.
Would you ever just pin a figure and not glue it? Just curious. I have never pinned any figure as over 50% of my builds are printed I join them just using the printer resin they were built with. Also I have access to industrial adhesives and never felt the need to pin cast resin figures.
depends, if it has parts that could break when I move, then I just leave the pins in without gluing for easy transportation, if not and it's a pretty standard pose then I'll glue everything with the pins.
Hey Leona, question unrelated to the video- do you have any videos/tutorials or know of any that go over painting dark skin tones? For some reason while it's easy enough to find completed projects of darker skinned characters I can't seem to actually find any videos or tutorials on people doing up their garage kits or models with dark skin. I've wasted a loooooooot of paint and test spoons with no satisfactory results, so I really need to see where I'm going wrong.
You know I don't know who's genius idea was to do feet in inches cups and teaspoons for America. But since I like to do more than just American stuff, I really wish it was all just the metric system lol it would be so much simpler. I mean whose idea was it really?
The British. But it is even worse in the UK. We use litres and pints, litres for fuel, but still talk in miles per gallon, pints of beer. Cold temperatures in Centigrade, hot in Fahrenheit, amongst others. Truly a mixed up nation.
@@jonkelly7908 We also have miles per gallon, 2 cups in a pint, 2 pints for a quart, I think it's four quarts to a gallon And they sell 2 Litres of soda at the supermarket lol However, I don't think we use centigrade for anything I can think of
@@jonkelly7908 I didn't realize that though. I thought everyone but the US, was using the metric system for pretty much everything Nice to know we not the only ones struggling With backwards systems
Hey Leona ^^, just wanted to give a big shoutout for your incredible content and super helpful tutorials! Your unique blend of character and humor adds so much fun to your videos, making them an absolute joy to watch. It's clear that you put a ton of effort into creating engaging and informative content that resonates with your audience. Keep up the fantastic work! Looking forward to more of your awesome videos. 🎉🥰
hearing you say that your usual videos are only surface level instruction is insane. I've been watching your videos for a long time. I'm not a garage kit artist. I'm a painter. the garage kit community is very lucky to have you.
Honestly, I'm always happy to see a notification that our Resin Queen has posted a new video!
I'm going to admit, pinning still seems really intimidating, but somehow the way you explained it and also showed what you were explaining really did set a lot of those 'catastrophe-level' thoughts at ease!
Definitely looking forward to everything you'll be doing next!
Hey, Leona! I went to my game store today and guess what? They had the Forbidden Yellow Mustard!😃
Stock up!!!!!!!
I just want to say that I love that you own a cel of Aya Mikage from Ayashi no Ceres. I'm a huge fan of that series!
I like the idea. This works well for wings and capes. Pinning hollow 1:6 scale and bigger models is a little more tricky. Cause you know, they're hollow.
That's why I fill my prints to make them solid 😉
Let me just say I absolutely love your content your humor and your telented as hell. keep up the good work. I'm 40 year old woman, I look forward to each and every one of your videos.
You got this one out super fast, and pinning does seem so scary at first but is so worth it in the long run. Especially when packing figures if you ever move, moving is such a pain!
How do metal pins fare with multiple reassemblies? I don't think I've seen anything like this on mass produced PVC figurines, so I wonder what advantages and disadvantages these pins have. They don't look too appealing on the surface, that's for sure.
As an on-again-off-again 3d modeler who makes their own 3d-print GKs, I have a tip for 3d modelers who intend to sell their models as printable kits:
99 times out of a 100, you and your customers will print your models hollowed out if they're printing in resin. Take that into account when splitting up your models into parts. Make either a spherical, or better yet cylindrical, subtraction from both sides of corresponding parts--depending on the size of the part. These perfectly aligned dimples make drilling holes for pinning super easy. And cylindrical guides are even better because even if the kit is hollowed out, the wall thickness will still provide some body inside the hollowed out part for the pin to grab onto, so long as you/your customer don't use too thin a wall thickness, and use too big of a drill/pin.
This is the worst advice for when adding connections to parts. Your worst enemy in assembling and putting your parts together is that they correctly align and stay in place, if you put a cylindrical key on an arm, a leg or head, the parts will swivel out of place and you don't want that.
Very few kits I've worked with had cylindrical keys and I've had to cut them to give them an edge so that it will stay in the correct position. Unless the parts have a section to stop the part from swiveling, this is not the way to do it.
@@leonasworkshop It's not a key, it's a void, on both sides of the parts. Meant specifically for pins to go directly into. Either with a little bit of putty filler if the void is too large because someone went and upscaled the 1/12 scaled model 200% into a 1/6 scale. Or to use a drill to widen the pre-made holes to fit their pin gauge exactly.
Sorry what I tried to explain wasn't clear enough. I was trying to describe a method of adding pin guides in addition to keys.
Ahhhh gotcha! It makes sense that way! I thought you were referring to the actual connection keys 😅
@@leonasworkshop No worries! It was probably the 3d modeling jargon that muddied the waters.
Super hype for those next two videos! If you haven't looked into Tenacious resin by Siryatech look into it! It might help with you issues you have with 3D prints being too brittle and not having that "soft" feel.
This is super helpful! The putty idea is a great idea for awkward pieces. Magnets have the uses if you have face plates to switch but I prefer wire for anything else. So much cheaper to use wire.
Also love the shirt!
Super excited for the next video you have planned. Love the way you build your kits.
Really enjoy the more technical vids you put out, especially this one. I appreciate you taking the time to break it down. Sometimes the WHY is more important than the HOW for me, found this fascinating. ❤
Thanks for your video Resin Queen.
I got a few kits from my brother, and after watching your first video (and this video) i feel A LOT more confident attempting my first pinning. ❤❤❤
This came at the right time. I’m needing to pin a few of my prints
Thank you for doing another pinning video. I always love your content and authenticity!
Now to work up the courage to pin and repair the limbs on some model horses that “jumped” off their shelf.
wonderful video
Thank you so much for an updated overview of all these videos showing these processes. I know you have some in the past, but I've always been hesitant to get into the hobby, but now I feel much more confident to give it a try!
Speaking of broken pegs. I fixed some broken pegs on my plastic models large and small doing this. They were even for moving parts and they are just fine now!
Thank you for creating these very informative videos, oh Resin Queen!!!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻❤️❤️❤️
I have some of my first kits on their way to me and I’m so excited to work on them!! You’ve been a huge inspiration and an incredible resource, thank you SO so much for everything 💜 I also love that Yoko was used as an example in this video, ttgl is a very special series to me
Always enjoy your videos as they're very informative and a great aid for me.
A great remaster of the older pinning video.
Whatever you post is helpful and fun. Thanks resin queen! 🫶
Always waiting for more content from you and I'm always happy to see notifs when you post a new video💕💕💕💕 love you lots resin queen💖
Always good to revisit.
9:53 "Paint would strip away". Glue on paint, I will admit it, I do that sometimes, didn't think of everything when I paint before putting all together. For me, when I put glue on paint, around the glue there can be a whitening effect on the paint, not stripped away. I wonder why the glue does this on paint?
Gracias por todo! Love your videos, and thank you for going into detail. Some things are difficult to figure out such as primer, or mixing different paint
Omg I just got your shirt Boo Bies :3
great video to wake up to hahaha
that intro
Hello and good morning/day/night. I was wondering if you have any tips for making bases to replace any broken ones or dramatically oversized ones? I understand your kit/figs are custom, but I've had ideas of possibly replacing bases on figures/statue figs. Like would it be as simple as simply creating a resin replacement and then drilling holes for pegs. Or are there more factors I need to know. Because in some cases the bases are so thin and cheap I figured weight wouldn't really be too much of a problem.
Thank you for making this video. I know how important pins are. I made my own anime figurine and I forgot to put a pin in when I was 3D. Modelling one piece and oh my God I was frustrating dealing with it afterwards and I didn’t wanna reprint the whole figure.
Hi Leona, I love your work and got into printing off my own figures and painting them because of your videos. You've been such a helpful resource and I'm very thankful for the in depth information. It always looks easy in videos made by someone with so much experience, but much harder to do in reality hahaha I do have a question that is probably a no brainer for you but... the thing i've found stupid hard is going back to sand a piece that primer showed where I missed spots. Removing the primer has been so time consuming and frustrating, I just wanted to know if there was a tried and true method you use.
I don't watch a lot of stuff on youtube but you're one of like two people that I watch every video for after a friend shared your work with me. Recently another friend decided to get into GKs and asked me for tips and tools, and I was only able to help because of you. I know you got into the hobby/artform at a much less accessible time, so it is especially meaningful to be able to benefit from all the hard work you've put in learning this craft when there WEREN'T easy answers and the scene was so gatekeepy. Thank you for sharing what you know, and I'm excited to see those deep dives. It's also so cool to see a creator and artist from my generation of anime fans still dedicated to the oldies. I was so pleasantly surprised to see the Ayashi no Ceres framed animation cel. That's one of my favorite manga and no one really talks much about it these days. It's awesome to see an old school shoujo lover out there.
Anyway, thank you for the wonderful videos and keep up the good work!!
I just sand the primer off although you don't really need to do that, just sand the imperfections and then reprime :)
that ghost shirt is so cute!
I love this tutorial but also your "BOO"bs shirt is fantastic.
Super useful video leona! Thanks!
As someone with a Warlord Titan (that I had to weigh down further to stabilize the balance) and lives in San Diego at the moment ....."falling to pieces without pinning" is quite an understatement.
let's us feel it together 😂🔫💀
Hi there! I love how helpful and accessible your videos are. It’s definitely helped me figure out what I need to start tackling the kits I’ve bought. Recently however I bought a kit that has a number of clear parts for the base! How would I go about pinning something like that?? I’m going to tackle some of my easier kits first because I’m so worried about screwing it up lol. Any advice would be so appreciated. I want to find a way to pin her and figure out some way to give her a diamond’s holographic kind of shine.
😁 Forbidden Mustard!!
Gracias Leona! Thank you!
Thank you so much Leona for your content and very helpful videos. I am new to the world of 3d shapes and really want to learn everything you show in your videos. Thank you very much for your hard work and great content.
Hey paisana 😊 queria agradecerte por esto del pining...justo estos dias andaba viendo tus videos y de otros buscando el como....y justo hoy subiste el video 😅
I never thought anybody would use magnets for anything except parts that are supposed to be interchangeable after the painting is done.
Spooky. Recently a picture frame dropped onto my garage kits. That Kotobukiya Yoko mostly wasn't pinned and she lost quite a few parts. But next to that Yoko, an Amie-Grand Triela, which is my most recent kit, stayed undamaged. She was built with a mix of pinning and magnets. I've lost too many unpinned kits to gravity in the past, I now always try to pin.
Thank you so much for this video and explaining magnets vs not. I can totally see using those for swap parts stuff or if you have a kit that you are shipping out that needs reassembly (maybe?)
The tutorial was really helpful! Is there still a shortage issue on the mustard putty? I didn't think about using epoxy putty, but that might work too. Just heavier?
Love all that you do and having other super in depth tutorial videos is always awesome!!❤
Your previous video on pinning is what I used as a reference! However, watching this one helped me understand a bit more also :) (I'm really dumb so lots of visuals help like this did!) Thank you for all the information!!
Also -- I wouldn't mind seeing more of the painting! But, would it be only airbrush painting?? I don't want to invest in an airbrush right now since I don't really have an area for one and currently have army painter type acrylic paints (they're for minis), so most of my questions are like for hand-painting. Example: Is there a certain type of paint that I should try? What do you recommend for hiding or minimising brush strokes? (If at all possible LOL)
I love your tutorials, kisses and hugs for you from a fan from Brasil!!!!
Necesitamos la guía donde expliques como pintar ojos con pintura en esmalte, buen vídeo.
First time seeing the videos-instant subscribe, love the video. But! I gotta question...when I print out the figures, I usually hollow the figure and have drain holes. It looks like the figures you were instructing with were solid, so how does one pin a hollowed 3d printed resin figure?
Stick around for my next video, I show you how to do it with 3d prints.
Awesome tips! One question, is there a way to pin hollow resin prints without having to fill them in like you did in Jinx's video? Thanks in advance
Unfortunately no. I'm releasing a video on how I work with 3D prints in the next couple of weeks and I'll explain why there.
I'm having trouble figuring out which size wire to use that will perfectly match a drill bit. I've tried using 24 and 20 gauge wire, but none of the bits I have match it well. The wire is always loose. What thickness wire and bits do you use for smaller pieces?
Bonus video with bonus mustard!
What I am curious is... is this common practice to pin the pieces and also glue.. considering that after you glue - you can't take it back - so might regret doing that (like if I change house packaging etc etc) so how do you decide to glue pieces which also has pin.
Thank you as always
The rotary tool she's using is a discontinued model, the "DREMEL® Micro (8050-35)." I’ve tested several alternatives, including the Proxxon MicroMot 60/EF and the Dremel Lite 7760, but ultimately settled on the:
WORX 8V WX106 with a drill chuck.
By the way, the new Dremel version is significantly worse than both of these in every category, from handling to power.
For 3D printed kits I found info that you could drill resin (not hollow) before post curing and it would be softer. I haven't tried it yet, don't know if you want to try it or even came across this info.
Is that a cardboard cat scratching board to the right under the fluorescent light? If so, what are you using it for? (I'll assume it is not for the cat if it is on the desk)
Yeah lol it is. I sure it to place my alligator clips that hold the parts I'm painting
Trying to pin my kit right now and getting quite frustrated, I can never seem to drill straight enough! any advice?
Is there a rotary tool other than Dremel of Kapoo that I can use as an alternative? Or can you tell me what I should I seek for a suitable rotary tool?
The rotary tool she's using is a discontinued model, the "DREMEL® Micro (8050-35)." I’ve tested several alternatives, including the Proxxon MicroMot 60/EF and the Dremel Lite 7760, but ultimately settled on the:
WORX 8V WX106 with a drill chuck.
By the way, the new Dremel version is significantly worse than both of these in every category, from handling to power.
thanks for the video now if those little bastards from sw game workshops can be pinned without so much trouble
It would be interesting if she does a "horror" video of building a resin kit thw wrong way like those old retro horror movie trailers like "The Blob" or "The Thing"
what is that pointy tool called?
Hey Leona! I had a question about the magnets - either i'm gaslighting myself or you mentioned in a previous video you bought your magnets from a specific place, and I was unable to hunt down which video that was. Where do you get your magnets? is it just off of amazon?
I get them at k and j magnetics 😊
Thank you so much for the quick reply! I'll get to nosing around since these look so much nicer than what I was finding on amazon lol. @@leonasworkshop
2:40
So I got a kit that was pre painted and it came with magnets should I go back and pin them instead?
if it's already painted, leave it be. Magnets are used on prepainted resin statues to prevent any breakage in transit and easy assembly. This is only for when you're the one painting the kit.
Would you ever just pin a figure and not glue it? Just curious.
I have never pinned any figure as over 50% of my builds are printed I join them just using the printer resin they were built with. Also I have access to industrial adhesives and never felt the need to pin cast resin figures.
depends, if it has parts that could break when I move, then I just leave the pins in without gluing for easy transportation, if not and it's a pretty standard pose then I'll glue everything with the pins.
Hey Leona, question unrelated to the video- do you have any videos/tutorials or know of any that go over painting dark skin tones? For some reason while it's easy enough to find completed projects of darker skinned characters I can't seem to actually find any videos or tutorials on people doing up their garage kits or models with dark skin. I've wasted a loooooooot of paint and test spoons with no satisfactory results, so I really need to see where I'm going wrong.
You know I don't know who's genius idea was to do feet in inches cups and teaspoons for America.
But since I like to do more than just American stuff, I really wish it was all just the metric system lol it would be so much simpler. I mean whose idea was it really?
The British.
But it is even worse in the UK. We use litres and pints, litres for fuel, but still talk in miles per gallon, pints of beer. Cold temperatures in Centigrade, hot in Fahrenheit, amongst others. Truly a mixed up nation.
@@jonkelly7908 We also have miles per gallon, 2 cups in a pint, 2 pints for a quart, I think it's four quarts to a gallon
And they sell 2 Litres of soda at the supermarket lol
However, I don't think we use centigrade for anything I can think of
@@jonkelly7908 I didn't realize that though. I thought everyone but the US, was using the metric system for pretty much everything
Nice to know we not the only ones struggling
With backwards systems