I love the way you film just how it is. A lot of videos cut a lot out to make sure it looks perfectly perfect. Mopar Joe this world ain't perfect in real time. Thanks for filming life how it is. Awesome 👍
Hearing any BB Mopar come to life is always music to my ears. I have had both a 400 charger and a 440 Dodge Magnum. The only thing better is a Hemi or a stroked SB.
I hope you can hear the old green swinger we have run someday. It’s a .060 440 that’s 12/1 with a huge solid flat tappet cam. Then through fenderwell headers and extensions.
@@JustMoparJoe Man, that has to be wicked loud and proud! The 440 is a very respected engine and having a 12 to 1 comp ratio and a solid lifter cam should make for a 9 second 1/4 mile.
I would to thank Joe and his teammate for every vid. You project is sooo inspirable. Want to buy old Mopar and do the same. But wait, I have no vehicle to install it, haha.
Looks n sounds good Joe!!! Sure makes me wish I was doing another B/RB!!! With so many other irons in the fire, dont think Ill get to til end of the year, maybe(??) But the 'ol 400 ive got laying around IS going to find its way into the 99 Ram Sport after it gets paint work!!!
Hey Joe I got 3 of those 413 truck engines was wondering which pistons did you use all I can find is the cast low compression ones unless you pay for a custom made high dollar pistons thanks
@@JustMoparJoe sure would . stay tuned I'll be tearing into the top of the 440 on the better looking general to find out if it has a bad head gasket leaking or a cracked head. hope it's just a gasket
Man, where are you located! My 65' New Yorker 413 needs the touch of your fingers, lol. I can seem to get my timing and carb set correctly! Central Florida
Thanks for asking! I had my Racecar distributor dropped in this engine and the mechanical advance was locked out. When I initially timed it, it had it set to 10 degrees before tdc. I was counting on the mechanical advance weights to add 15-20 degrees of timing once it started up. The mixture was literally burning outside of the exhaust port. I bunped up timing to 32 degrees and all was right with the world.
Hell Yeah 413 will Run! :) ---- QUESTION for you Joe! Why drop the distributor in at 10 BTDC and not on the Zero Mark? and wont that make ponting the dizzy at the #1 plug off a bit? or does having the dizzy advanced pre-curved a bit 10-12 make up for that? Sorry i beez learning man and I have never seen this before looks pro and im vary curious as timing is everything and super interesting especially if you aint got money for real parts! :) Fake it till you make it baby!
Thank brother. I should have shown it. When I dropped distributor in, I lined the magnetic pickup up with whatever tooth of the wheel was closest. Then looked at my cap to find the wire on the cap it was pointing at. They say when breaking in a cam, you want the motor to fire right off. This seems to work for me. I’d it had a mechanical advance, the pipes wouldn’t have glowed like that. That was My bad for not considering that.
Absolutely. I’ve done it in many applications without issue. The impact doesn’t start until the pump gets primed. By that point, the oil inside it would take the majority of any impact that you hear. Very nice question.
It was a fun experience. I had used the mad distributor from my old racecar and wire set. I set it around 10 degrees initial and forget it was locked out. So at 10 degrees initial on the break in around 2,500 rpm, the burn was going out the exhaust.
Great video Joe, I’m always learning a lot from your videos. I’m dropping my distributor in and I’m seeing a few videos a crossed RUclips that say the back of rotor ( mushroom head?) is supposed to face number one. But the mushroom head on mine is facing number 3, Is this a big deal? I’ve never done this before looking for a video that shows how to drop a distributor in correctly, with proper orientation. Any help would be appreciated as usual thank you Joe
It really doesn’t matter how you drop it in, as long as the vacuum advance canister has room to rotate either direction. I usually do the finger trick, spin it over, hear the poot. Look down at balancer and move the timing mark and balancer about an inch to the left of the 0 on the pointer. Whichever lug on your cap that the metal tip of distributor is pointing at, make that your number 1. Then wire it up in order. Car should fire up. Get your timing light ready.
@@JustMoparJoe thanks Joe, I’m out here tinkering with it tonight and was wondering if you mean that I would be at 10° on my balancer. ( my balancer has numbers on it with only an aftermarket aluminum indicator) sorry I just got confused when you said an inch to the left of the zero. Meaning that the zero would be now below ( to the left) of the timing mark if I’m facing the motor. Sorry this is hard to explain lol.
@@maximuswedgie5149 that sounds good. The 0 of the balancer is to the left side of the 0 on the pointer. I may have a better video showing it. I’ll look
The pistons are factory from the 1970 motor home. They have a dish to them. The edges of the piston are probably.020 in the hole. The centers are much deeper. The engine has 452’s that have been cut pretty good, and ported. It is a low compression engine, but runs and revs strong. I will get some video of it running in the truck soon.
@@JustMoparJoe Great job. My 440 with 452 heads came out of motor home & i milled those heads .50" and some mild porting. Now it screams in my '65 Coronet.
Mine is locked out too, and I'm trying to get it to idle. I just switched from fitech to edelbrock. And it's running on the metering rods, fowling the plugs out instantly. I'm going to get them fancy 6AL 2 digital to map the advance.
@@sjaywjayw70 sounds like carb issues. If it’s loading up and burning your eyes, the I’d say carb. Unless the mechanical advance in the distributor is so slow that it’s keeping the timing down at low Rpms. Do you have an fbo plate and spring kit?
@@sjaywjayw70 Edelbrocks are easy. At idle, the metering rods should be down and not bumping up and down. If so, you need lighter springs under them. Usually with an automatic car, you can have a buddy drop it in gear, while idling and watch the rods. If they are jumping, you need lighter springs. There are good videos on RUclips of tuning an edelbrock carb, better than I can explain it.
Haha! Yea I never saw it until he hollered at me. Literally took 45 seconds to glow. I got the timing up to 30 degrees and it was smooth sailing the rest of the day.
The camera doesn’t like loud noises for some reason. I varied it from 2,500-2,700. I like that light from summit that had the tach built in and adjustable degrees.
I love the way you film just how it is. A lot of videos cut a lot out to make sure it looks perfectly perfect. Mopar Joe this world ain't perfect in real time. Thanks for filming life how it is. Awesome 👍
I appreciate that. I’m certainly not perfect, and I hope others can learn from my mistakes. In 20-30 years, I might know a few things!
I agree... Keeping it real!
They should know it’s not always easy! I appreciate y’all’s support
Nice engine build Joe.
413 is over looked, great potential.
Thank you, Ed!
Soon as it got the timing it wanted Sweet Mopar Music! Nice work Joe.
Thanks brother! It was crazy how quickly they started to glow. I was hoping the microphone would do it justice!
Hearing any BB Mopar come to life is always music to my ears. I have had both a 400 charger and a 440 Dodge Magnum. The only thing better is a Hemi or a stroked SB.
I hope you can hear the old green swinger we have run someday. It’s a .060 440 that’s 12/1 with a huge solid flat tappet cam. Then through fenderwell headers and extensions.
@@JustMoparJoe Man, that has to be wicked loud and proud! The 440 is a very respected engine and having a 12 to 1 comp ratio and a solid lifter cam should make for a 9 second 1/4 mile.
Good stuff. Teaching kids how to survive old school. 👍
Thank you sir! I’m always still learning, myself. Recently got a box full of old Mopar magazines. Hope I can test some old articles out someday.
One quick turning big block. No slouch at all. Nice work.
Thanks brother! I know it’ll rev fast on the stand like that. I didn’t go over 4,000. Old timers say”you’ll spin the bearings out of it!”
They rev like 383's and torque like a 440.
Nice that's one good running water you get it set up right it's got a lot of torque good luck with it Mopar Joe
Thanks brother. 400 build continues now that the NNN is done.
Thanks for your videos, getting ready to build a 318 in a few months. Appreciate all the knowledge you're sharing and will be put to good use!
Thanks brother! Good luck with your build!
I’ve built a couple motors but it’s still fun watching other people do it.
Thanks brother! Everyone had their own style. That’s what’s great about it.
That is a sweet Motor Joe.
Thanks brother! It’s I the 74 d100 video, leaving a mile long black mark 😂
That 413 sounds great!! Fired right off! Great job Joe!
Thanks Duddie! Stronger than two slants tied together 😂
@@JustMoparJoe HAHAHAHAHAHA
Great vid Joe....another step closer to road miles!!!
Thanks brother! I’ll get some video soon of it in the truck!
I would to thank Joe and his teammate for every vid. You project is sooo inspirable. Want to buy old Mopar and do the same. But wait, I have no vehicle to install it, haha.
Thanks brother! They’re still out there! Find one and make it your own!
Really dig your videos I'm gonna build me a run stand soon so I aint gotta pull my engine in and out👍
Thanks Travis! Good luck!
Sounds solid great job thanks for sharing my Mopar Buddy!!
Thanks for the support, Bill! I’ll get some good footage of it in the truck soon, and some highway footage to follow.
@@JustMoparJoe Looking forward to it!
Nice job on the start up. Where it shows how well your engine building skills are
Thanks for the support! This one did log by right off. Had to stop it from glowing like a old oil stove 😅, but it came on around with some timing.
👍sounds GREAT Joe
Thanks brother
Great job Joe.
Thank you!
yeeehaa brother,sounds crisp and sharp.Id say you have now officially been bitten by the big block bug.Well done my friend awesome job
I love the big blocks! Hard to beat
Very cool! Super helpful to see the whole process and issues. Sounds awesome 😎.
Thanks brother!
Excellent work! Great job on your build!!
Thanks Terry! Big blocks are awesome! Even this red headed step child 413
Sounds awesome! Its Gonna be a great engine for the truck its going in
Thanks Ross! I’ll get some video of it in and running soon.
Good job.
Thanks brother
Sounds pretty cool wish it was mine
Thanks Brother! The camera can’t do it justice.
Excellent work
Thanks brother! Will follow up soon.
Looks n sounds good Joe!!! Sure makes me wish I was doing another B/RB!!! With so many other irons in the fire, dont think Ill get to til end of the year, maybe(??) But the 'ol 400 ive got laying around IS going to find its way into the 99 Ram Sport after it gets paint work!!!
Thanks brother! It’s all been building up to this moment. Ready to see it pulling the truck down the road.
Sounds awesome , even on my phone ! 😊 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Mike. Sometimes the camera doesn’t like loud engines
Sonds great! nice job!
Thanks brother!
sound real solid
Thanks brother!
Good job brother! It sounds awesome..
Thanks brother! I was trying to get you to convert to the Mopar way!
@@JustMoparJoe Andy's a closet Mopar guy anyway and I'm going to make it even harder for him to deny that.
Well done- loved the video, thank you
Yes sir! Thanks for watching
IT LIVES !!!! 👍
As smooth as new!
Great job 👍!!
Thanks brother! This one idled smooth as silk, and revved strong. 👍🏼
To me the 413 is close to the perfect street motor.
I might have to agree! I may try a 383 in my dart sport. Will keep you posted 👍🏼
Congrats! :-)
Thanks brother! It was a blast to hear it fire off.
O yeah.
Nothing like a big block in the afternoon!
Glowing headers just help you see in the dark is all lol
Haha! I fixed it. Turbo cars do that don’t they?
@@JustMoparJoe if they ain’t glowing you ain’t got enough timing lol
Hey Joe I got 3 of those 413 truck engines was wondering which pistons did you use all I can find is the cast low compression ones unless you pay for a custom made high dollar pistons thanks
As always😎👍🏁
Thanks brother! It’d look good in the general!
@@JustMoparJoe sure would . stay tuned I'll be tearing into the top of the 440 on the better looking general to find out if it has a bad head gasket leaking or a cracked head. hope it's just a gasket
Will do! I’ve got 906’s if you need some.
@@JustMoparJoe ok I'll let Nathan know if the head or heads are bad 😎👍🏁
Man let’s hear it open headers
Should have, but it was almost pleasant with those turbos on for the 20 minutes. I can still hear so far!
Bad ass
Thanks brother!
Man, where are you located! My 65' New Yorker 413 needs the touch of your fingers, lol. I can seem to get my timing and carb set correctly! Central Florida
Haha! I’m in central and Eastern Arkansas
Looks like you need to richen it up.
We figured it out! Only had 12 degrees of timing with locked out distributor!
Is that a Mercedes CL Fan & Shroud? If it is what are your thoughts? Thinking about using one on the Battle Wagon! Another great series!
I’ve heard of that swap, but this is just a 4 core for a 77 ramcharger with a/c. Bought it 10 years ago from 1800radiators 😂
Why was #6 glowing ( Hotter )?…. I’m soon to break in my 383 in just curious cuz this will be my first beak in / start up EVER
Thanks for asking! I had my Racecar distributor dropped in this engine and the mechanical advance was locked out. When I initially timed it, it had it set to 10 degrees before tdc. I was counting on the mechanical advance weights to add 15-20 degrees of timing once it started up. The mixture was literally burning outside of the exhaust port. I bunped up timing to 32 degrees and all was right with the world.
Hell Yeah 413 will Run! :) ---- QUESTION for you Joe! Why drop the distributor in at 10 BTDC and not on the Zero Mark? and wont that make ponting the dizzy at the #1 plug off a bit? or does having the dizzy advanced pre-curved a bit 10-12 make up for that? Sorry i beez learning man and I have never seen this before looks pro and im vary curious as timing is everything and super interesting especially if you aint got money for real parts! :) Fake it till you make it baby!
Thank brother. I should have shown it. When I dropped distributor in, I lined the magnetic pickup up with whatever tooth of the wheel was closest. Then looked at my cap to find the wire on the cap it was pointing at. They say when breaking in a cam, you want the motor to fire right off. This seems to work for me. I’d it had a mechanical advance, the pipes wouldn’t have glowed like that. That was My bad for not considering that.
The mixture is burning in the header..lol.
Sounds really strong Joe!! *thumbs up*
Thanks brother! Yea I figured that out quickly. Got that timing up to 30 and it was smooth as silk.
Should you be using an impact gun to prime the oil pump 🤐🙏🏻😳?
Absolutely. I’ve done it in many applications without issue. The impact doesn’t start until the pump gets primed. By that point, the oil inside it would take the majority of any impact that you hear. Very nice question.
@@JustMoparJoe jus checkin..
Boy that is a smoooothhh runner Joe!! What cam did you install?
This was a Lunati voodoo. I believe .494/.513 lift. It’s in the video where we degrees the cam in, for the 413 build series.
Nice. I put a 256 voodoo in my 383. Awesome cam in a 4200 pound sport fury
Why were your header pipes glowing red hot? Too much ignition timing? Not enough? Too lean? What did you do to correct it?
It was a fun experience. I had used the mad distributor from my old racecar and wire set. I set it around 10 degrees initial and forget it was locked out. So at 10 degrees initial on the break in around 2,500 rpm, the burn was going out the exhaust.
Great video Joe, I’m always learning a lot from your videos. I’m dropping my distributor in and I’m seeing a few videos a crossed RUclips that say the back of rotor ( mushroom head?) is supposed to face number one. But the mushroom head on mine is facing number 3, Is this a big deal? I’ve never done this before looking for a video that shows how to drop a distributor in correctly, with proper orientation. Any help would be appreciated as usual thank you Joe
It really doesn’t matter how you drop it in, as long as the vacuum advance canister has room to rotate either direction. I usually do the finger trick, spin it over, hear the poot. Look down at balancer and move the timing mark and balancer about an inch to the left of the 0 on the pointer. Whichever lug on your cap that the metal tip of distributor is pointing at, make that your number 1. Then wire it up in order. Car should fire up. Get your timing light ready.
@@JustMoparJoe thanks Joe, I really appreciate the help
@@JustMoparJoe thanks Joe, I’m out here tinkering with it tonight and was wondering if you mean that I would be at 10° on my balancer. ( my balancer has numbers on it with only an aftermarket aluminum indicator) sorry I just got confused when you said an inch to the left of the zero. Meaning that the zero would be now below ( to the left) of the timing mark if I’m facing the motor. Sorry this is hard to explain lol.
@@maximuswedgie5149 that sounds good. The 0 of the balancer is to the left side of the 0 on the pointer. I may have a better video showing it. I’ll look
I must have missed one of the videos. What pistons did you end up using and how far down in the hole are they?
The pistons are factory from the 1970 motor home. They have a dish to them. The edges of the piston are probably.020 in the hole. The centers are much deeper. The engine has 452’s that have been cut pretty good, and ported. It is a low compression engine, but runs and revs strong. I will get some video of it running in the truck soon.
@@JustMoparJoe Great job. My 440 with 452 heads came out of motor home & i milled those heads .50" and some mild porting. Now it screams in my '65 Coronet.
What did you set the spark plug gap?
Spark plug gap at .035. The headers glowed when the distributor was locked out at 12 degrees. Definitely needed more than that.
Mine is locked out too, and I'm trying to get it to idle. I just switched from fitech to edelbrock. And it's running on the metering rods, fowling the plugs out instantly. I'm going to get them fancy 6AL 2 digital to map the advance.
My 383 only likes around 32° btdc. It really didn't like anything else. I just left it there. Still is running rich, and has trouble idling.
@@sjaywjayw70 sounds like carb issues. If it’s loading up and burning your eyes, the I’d say carb. Unless the mechanical advance in the distributor is so slow that it’s keeping the timing down at low Rpms. Do you have an fbo plate and spring kit?
@@sjaywjayw70 Edelbrocks are easy. At idle, the metering rods should be down and not bumping up and down. If so, you need lighter springs under them. Usually with an automatic car, you can have a buddy drop it in gear, while idling and watch the rods. If they are jumping, you need lighter springs. There are good videos on RUclips of tuning an edelbrock carb, better than I can explain it.
why does it sound like all the valves are clacking?
Chinese go pro distorts pretty badly. I’ve upgraded since then.
That's what you call a mud motor
Runs right along
@@JustMoparJoe LOL I'M PLAYING
I'm hollering at my phone shut er down they are red hot
Haha! Yea I never saw it until he hollered at me. Literally took 45 seconds to glow. I got the timing up to 30 degrees and it was smooth sailing the rest of the day.
Mopar or no car 👍👍👍👍👍
Yes sir!
Sounded like a lot higher than 2500 ............
The camera doesn’t like loud noises for some reason. I varied it from 2,500-2,700. I like that light from summit that had the tach built in and adjustable degrees.
Shit I did something similar to a sbc in 1980 so I can't say much. 😆
All good. Should have my 400 build up on the run stand in the next month or so
Hey buddy you're headers are about to be a puddle on the floor. Really 10-12 degrees! Wtf
Yea I forgot the distributor was locked out! I was expecting that advance to add 15-20 degrees 😂