Thank you Steve. Your calm approach and technique make me more confident for tackling this task on my Lunar Solo. Keep up the great videos and adventures!
I seam sealed the bathtub corners from the outside and inside. I also sealed the seam inside the tub running its entire width, inside and out. Indeed, seem sealing the tub is the first thing I did !
Ahhhhhh Yeahhhh boy... This video couldn't have come out at a better time, going out this weekend. Possible rain in the forecast. Thanks for sharing, take care
@@TubaSolotheHiker... No blame on you, I take full responsibility for not knowing my tents material. I didn't know what material my tent was when I purchased the seam sealer. REI sold me the silicone sealer after telling them which tent I own... So much for gear specialists. lol
I use the same thing but I mix enough to do the hole tent but don't wipe it off let it soak in. It makes the tent way more uv resistant and makes your tent last year's longer. Yes it adds weight but it will not leak and dry's so much faster as water can not penetrating into the fabric. PS don't try "bio mineral spirits", it doesn't work at all. Pss. You can turn a bed sheets into tarps with this method or custom ground sheets that do not slip out.
I have the same tent and had SMD seam seal it before shipment. I took it on a trip a couple of weekends ago where it rained heavily and was disappointed to find that the "butt" seam on the back half of the tent leaked considerably. It seems to me that having the tent setup is important to get those seams properly sealed. I know that SMD does their sealing on a table and lets them dry indoors. Fortunately, SMD agreed to send me some free sealer and I'll be doing what you did in the video this weekend.
Warren Davidson Hey Warren. Thank you for the kind words on the vid. As far as the dabs of silicone on the inside of the tent in the floor, I decided against it. In retrospect I probably should have done that but all the Lunar Solos I’ve had I’ve never really experienced to much sliding. Take care my friend.
Great vid. Very informative. Didn’t know that about the white gas. Did the smell from the gas subside over time? Anyways, on any tent that I know needs seam sealing, I know where to look. Mighty fine pitch you have there too!
The white gas ultimately evaporated. That's whats happening when the diluted seam sealer gets harder over time as you are working. If you needed to thin it out again just add some more white gas and you'd be good. But to directly answer your question, other than the initial smell of the gas when poured into the plastic bottle there was no remaining odor once the white gas ultimately evaporated.
Tuba Solo the Hiker thanks, Steve! Perfect! Great vid BTW. After watching your vid, I’m curious how high you set your pole? Or did you use the carbon pole? It seems set high enough to offer perfect ventilation and it triggered my curiosity.
E6000 works better than any tent seam sealer i have ever used... It needs to be thinned down with Klean Strip Xylene (Home Depot) to a maple syrup consistency. I bought one of those empty quart cans and made a half batch stays liquefied in a container. Buy a pack of those cheap thin metal handle touch up brushes and go at it. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area. The stuff will dry fast and last? Well put it this way, i have a tent that has been sealed for eight years and still looks like it did the day i applied it. I bring one of the tiny tubes in my pack in case i get a leak or i need to patch something, i bring a length of rip stop fabric for rips or holes, apply some E6000 and it holds tight.
Interesting....never heard of E6000. So once it dries, its malleable? Like if you stuff your tent into your bag instead of folding it. Residue over time? Very interesting indeed that its stays liquefied.
@@TubaSolotheHiker :::: This was an act of desperation on an old North Face VE23 tent. I can say it's malleable but will leave white marks at the folds where the old poly was still sticking to the fabric. I finished the whole tent today, sides and under the fly with the same treatment. It was going into the garbage anyway so i gave it a go.. It repels water well as the E6000 permeated into the fabric that was exposed from flaked off Polyurethane and covered over the old poly. I think if it was all fabric this would be something to try on some UN-coated rip stop material. As far as for seam sealing I've use E6000 for years on my tents. Now that i can thin it down it's the best as it soaks into the seam and seam threads as well.
Hello Renae. I don't see why that would be a problem per se but I would think that you want to paint the exterior of the seams as it will keep rain from even pooling (not in a literal sense) in the seams. Essentially the sooner you can keep the water out (i.e. on the exterior of the tent) the less chance you have in allowing water to get into the tent. Hope that makes sense.
Oh I see what you mean. Makes sense. Just ordered the new lunar solo on SMD cyber Monday sale %30 off. I’ll have to seam seal in the spring since I’m in Michigan and it’s pretty cold here but just getting a plan. Thanks for the help.
@@TubaSolotheHiker My sentiments. Seam sealer should be applied on the exterior of seams. If you want to do a really thorough job then seal the interior of those seams.
My tents instructions are to pitch the fly inside out to seam seal it. Might be that the seams are better exposed/accessible from the inside with mine? Believe it penetrates so should be treating both surfaces anyway when you apply seam sealant.
Bruce Kiefaber Hello Bruce. The only seam sealing of the floor that I did can be found at approximately 9:23. That was just in case things got a bit dicy with the water and it started to pool under me. Beyond that I did not seal the floor further. The interesting thing is that it did seam like the center of the tent has a welded or seamed center. That was not done by me. Hope that info helps.
Hey Jason, I not only have the LE version but I have the newest version currently on the SMD's website (the Silpoly version). Check the seem on the inside of the tent when it arrives. It may already be sealed from the company who produced it. The LE version from this video was the first SMD product I had to seam seal myself. All other ones I've owned over the years were seam sealed from SMD. To my surprise the floor seam was already sealed on the LE version when I got it in the mail. So you may find that the new version already has the center seam on the floor sealed. The reason I did the bottom of the corners is to minimize the possibility of pooled water getting in. While I genuinely believe I will never be in such a bad rain storm where I may have a stream of water under me start to form, I want to be ready for something like that. 99 out of a 100 you'll be just fine if you chose a good site. Hope this all makes sense. If you have any other questions or need clarification, please do not hesitate to ask.
Tuba Solo the Hiker I appreciate the tip buddy. Just transitioned back to a tent from a hammock after 6 years and this is my first tent like this. I’m hoping it’s already sealed on the floor, I’ll be sure to do the corners as well so just Incase like you said pooling water. Thanks for the info.
TheGoatMumbler Hey Brother. Good to hear from you again. I picked this guy up 3rd party. The person who sold it to me purchased it without the seam sealing option so my hand was forced in this situation to seam seal myself. But if given the choice I’d certainly purchase the seam sealing from the factory. All of my other Lunar Solos were factory seam sealed and have been great.
I just re-read your question. Maybe I misunderstood; if you are referring to using silicone diluted by white gas over using something like Silnet there really is no difference as long as you dilute the Silnet in the same fashion. The reason I purchased the the 100% silicone in lieu of Silnet is that I didn't want to drive 20 miles to the closest REI to purchase Silnet as I knew for $4 I could get a tube of the GE 100% silicone and I already had the white gas to dilute it. But yeah Silnet is great too you just have to dilute it in the same way for it to go on without a lot of fuss. Lol..sorry. Hopefully I'm answering your question.
R Reichel I don’t see why flex seal wouldn’t work. My concern however, is that flex seal would add unneeded weight. One of the purposes of thinning out the silicone is to not over do it and add too much weight to the tent. An ample bead of un-thinned seam sealer could add about an ounce to an ounce and a half of weight I would think. There’s also the social stigma of being the one person that shows up with flex seal on their tent.
Great question. Correct. The only benefit is to keep moisture out on tents that are made of materials that cannot be seam taped. Many times, most UL (NON-DCF) shelters will do just fine in light rain, but when there is a heavy downpour they can leak in the seams where the needle has punctured the material during the manufacturing process. Seam sealing will shore up those holes and prevent any water from getting in. Take care my friend.
@@TubaSolotheHiker Thanks for the info. I have never seam sealed my Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 and I have been through some big storms. I might have just got lucky!
Explore More of the Journey Yep. Copper Spur is a perfect example of a tent that comes with a fly that is seam taped. No need to seam seal for that tent. Makes life a lot easier indeed.
Thank you Steve. Your calm approach and technique make me more confident for tackling this task on my Lunar Solo. Keep up the great videos and adventures!
Rashoop thank you Rashoop!
I seam sealed the bathtub corners from the outside and inside. I also sealed the seam inside the tub running its entire width, inside and out. Indeed, seem sealing the tub is the first thing I did !
Ahhhhhh Yeahhhh boy... This video couldn't have come out at a better time, going out this weekend. Possible rain in the forecast. Thanks for sharing, take care
Always glad to help. Thanks for the view and comment my friend.
@@TubaSolotheHiker... update, my tent isn't a sil-nylon material. I need a Seam Sure Water Base Sealer. (Gear Aid)
Correct this is for seam sealing silicone impregnated and/or silicone coated materials.
@@TubaSolotheHiker... No blame on you, I take full responsibility for not knowing my tents material. I didn't know what material my tent was when I purchased the seam sealer. REI sold me the silicone sealer after telling them which tent I own... So much for gear specialists. lol
Yeah those guys are funny bunch at REI, aren't they? Lol.
I use the same thing but I mix enough to do the hole tent but don't wipe it off let it soak in. It makes the tent way more uv resistant and makes your tent last year's longer. Yes it adds weight but it will not leak and dry's so much faster as water can not penetrating into the fabric. PS don't try "bio mineral spirits", it doesn't work at all. Pss. You can turn a bed sheets into tarps with this method or custom ground sheets that do not slip out.
Greetings from Utah 🤗. You’re a really good teacher. Thanks for this! Subbed.
Thank you Greg! Glad I could help.
Great job and good timing for a video of this nature.
Thank you for the view and the kind words my friend.
PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS FOR SEAM SEALING SILICONE IMPREGNATED AND/OR SILICONE COATED FABRICS ONLY!
Thank you so much! I am a total beginner and this helped me a lot :)
Glad I could help Kidaria!
Nice technique Steve, great job.
Thank you Don!
I'm wondering if ethanol would work to dilute the sealant?
Thank you for an awesome instructional video!
Thanks for the tutorial. Do you think I could use turpentine to dilute the sealant?
Yeah, I'm not too sure with that. I know you can use paint thinner, but I'm not too sure with turpentine.
I have the same tent and had SMD seam seal it before shipment. I took it on a trip a couple of weekends ago where it rained heavily and was disappointed to find that the "butt" seam on the back half of the tent leaked considerably. It seems to me that having the tent setup is important to get those seams properly sealed. I know that SMD does their sealing on a table and lets them dry indoors. Fortunately, SMD agreed to send me some free sealer and I'll be doing what you did in the video this weekend.
Great job and excellent video! Do you know if the new ones have all those seams that need sealed too?
Yes sir they still do, but you cam pay a $30 fee to have SMD do it for you. I've done that in the past and have been very happy with the results.
@@TubaSolotheHiker Ok thanks for the quick response. I found them on Amazon with only 1 day shipping! Pretty sure I'm getting one.
Another great video. Did you place any dabs of silicon on the floor to prevent you sleep pad from moving around? Thanks
Warren Davidson Hey Warren. Thank you for the kind words on the vid. As far as the dabs of silicone on the inside of the tent in the floor, I decided against it. In retrospect I probably should have done that but all the Lunar Solos I’ve had I’ve never really experienced to much sliding. Take care my friend.
Great vid. Very informative. Didn’t know that about the white gas. Did the smell from the gas subside over time? Anyways, on any tent that I know needs seam sealing, I know where to look. Mighty fine pitch you have there too!
The white gas ultimately evaporated. That's whats happening when the diluted seam sealer gets harder over time as you are working. If you needed to thin it out again just add some more white gas and you'd be good. But to directly answer your question, other than the initial smell of the gas when poured into the plastic bottle there was no remaining odor once the white gas ultimately evaporated.
Tuba Solo the Hiker thanks, Steve! Perfect! Great vid BTW. After watching your vid, I’m curious how high you set your pole? Or did you use the carbon pole? It seems set high enough to offer perfect ventilation and it triggered my curiosity.
Thank you. Good job!
E6000 works better than any tent seam sealer i have ever used...
It needs to be thinned down with Klean Strip Xylene (Home Depot) to a maple syrup consistency.
I bought one of those empty quart cans and made a half batch stays liquefied in a container.
Buy a pack of those cheap thin metal handle touch up brushes and go at it.
Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area.
The stuff will dry fast and last?
Well put it this way, i have a tent that has been sealed for eight years and still looks like it did the day i applied it.
I bring one of the tiny tubes in my pack in case i get a leak or i need to patch something, i bring a length of rip stop fabric for rips or holes, apply some E6000 and it holds tight.
Interesting....never heard of E6000. So once it dries, its malleable? Like if you stuff your tent into your bag instead of folding it. Residue over time? Very interesting indeed that its stays liquefied.
@@TubaSolotheHiker :::: This was an act of desperation on an old North Face VE23 tent. I can say it's malleable but will leave white marks at the folds where the old poly was still sticking to the fabric.
I finished the whole tent today, sides and under the fly with the same treatment.
It was going into the garbage anyway so i gave it a go.. It repels water well as the E6000 permeated into the fabric that was exposed from flaked off Polyurethane and covered over the old poly.
I think if it was all fabric this would be something to try on some UN-coated rip stop material.
As far as for seam sealing I've use E6000 for years on my tents. Now that i can thin it down it's the best as it soaks into the seam and seam threads as well.
Thanks for this video!
Is it possible to seam seal all the seams from the inside so you can’t see the silicone painted on the exterior or does that method not seal as well?
Hello Renae. I don't see why that would be a problem per se but I would think that you want to paint the exterior of the seams as it will keep rain from even pooling (not in a literal sense) in the seams. Essentially the sooner you can keep the water out (i.e. on the exterior of the tent) the less chance you have in allowing water to get into the tent. Hope that makes sense.
Oh I see what you mean. Makes sense. Just ordered the new lunar solo on SMD cyber Monday sale %30 off. I’ll have to seam seal in the spring since I’m in Michigan and it’s pretty cold here but just getting a plan. Thanks for the help.
@@TubaSolotheHiker My sentiments. Seam sealer should be applied on the exterior of seams. If you want to do a really thorough job then seal the interior of those seams.
My tents instructions are to pitch the fly inside out to seam seal it. Might be that the seams are better exposed/accessible from the inside with mine? Believe it penetrates so should be treating both surfaces anyway when you apply seam sealant.
Do you seam seal the floor seams?
Bruce Kiefaber Hello Bruce. The only seam sealing of the floor that I did can be found at approximately 9:23. That was just in case things got a bit dicy with the water and it started to pool under me. Beyond that I did not seal the floor further. The interesting thing is that it did seam like the center of the tent has a welded or seamed center. That was not done by me. Hope that info helps.
Just purchased the lunar solo, not the le version. Did you seam seal the floor seams as well or just those corners.
Hey Jason, I not only have the LE version but I have the newest version currently on the SMD's website (the Silpoly version). Check the seem on the inside of the tent when it arrives. It may already be sealed from the company who produced it. The LE version from this video was the first SMD product I had to seam seal myself. All other ones I've owned over the years were seam sealed from SMD. To my surprise the floor seam was already sealed on the LE version when I got it in the mail. So you may find that the new version already has the center seam on the floor sealed. The reason I did the bottom of the corners is to minimize the possibility of pooled water getting in. While I genuinely believe I will never be in such a bad rain storm where I may have a stream of water under me start to form, I want to be ready for something like that. 99 out of a 100 you'll be just fine if you chose a good site. Hope this all makes sense. If you have any other questions or need clarification, please do not hesitate to ask.
Tuba Solo the Hiker I appreciate the tip buddy. Just transitioned back to a tent from a hammock after 6 years and this is my first tent like this. I’m hoping it’s already sealed on the floor, I’ll be sure to do the corners as well so just Incase like you said pooling water. Thanks for the info.
Do the off the shelf seam sealing products not work?
TheGoatMumbler Hey Brother. Good to hear from you again. I picked this guy up 3rd party. The person who sold it to me purchased it without the seam sealing option so my hand was forced in this situation to seam seal myself. But if given the choice I’d certainly purchase the seam sealing from the factory. All of my other Lunar Solos were factory seam sealed and have been great.
Caution... this for sil-nylon tents/materials.
RedWhite&Blue 78 is correct. This method is for seam sealing silicone impregnated and/or silicone coated fabrics.
I just re-read your question. Maybe I misunderstood; if you are referring to using silicone diluted by white gas over using something like Silnet there really is no difference as long as you dilute the Silnet in the same fashion. The reason I purchased the the 100% silicone in lieu of Silnet is that I didn't want to drive 20 miles to the closest REI to purchase Silnet as I knew for $4 I could get a tube of the GE 100% silicone and I already had the white gas to dilute it. But yeah Silnet is great too you just have to dilute it in the same way for it to go on without a lot of fuss. Lol..sorry. Hopefully I'm answering your question.
I want to know if flex seal will waterproof a tent seam.
R Reichel I don’t see why flex seal wouldn’t work. My concern however, is that flex seal would add unneeded weight. One of the purposes of thinning out the silicone is to not over do it and add too much weight to the tent. An ample bead of un-thinned seam sealer could add about an ounce to an ounce and a half of weight I would think.
There’s also the social stigma of being the one person that shows up with flex seal on their tent.
I have never seam sealed a tent before. Is this purely for keeping moisture out or is there another benefit?
Great question. Correct. The only benefit is to keep moisture out on tents that are made of materials that cannot be seam taped. Many times, most UL (NON-DCF) shelters will do just fine in light rain, but when there is a heavy downpour they can leak in the seams where the needle has punctured the material during the manufacturing process. Seam sealing will shore up those holes and prevent any water from getting in. Take care my friend.
@@TubaSolotheHiker Thanks for the info. I have never seam sealed my Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 and I have been through some big storms. I might have just got lucky!
Explore More of the Journey Yep. Copper Spur is a perfect example of a tent that comes with a fly that is seam taped. No need to seam seal for that tent. Makes life a lot easier indeed.
@@TubaSolotheHiker Ah! Thanks for the info!
Nice bud!
Thank you Jason!
Thanks
Glad to help Tom!
mineral spirits=clear charcoal lighter, like Kingsford or Warren
Get out, is that really true? Hmm. Seems like an easy find then. I'll certainly do some research on that. Thanks for the tip.
@@TubaSolotheHiker Just look up the MSDS. It will say "white spirits" or "mineral spirits".