Looking for faults on the Commodore PC 10 board with FNIRSI DPOX180H
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 5 апр 2024
- FNIRSI DPOX180H here: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oFK...
-
Support me on patreon.com/Epictronics
Join me on Twitter: / epictronics1
-
Tools I regularly use
DeoxIT D5 Contact Cleaner
Hanstar 861DW Rework Station
Pro'sKit SS-331 Desoldering Station
UNI-T UT61E Auto Ranging Multimeter
UNI-T UT890D Manual Ranging Multimeter
MESR-100 mk2 ESR meeter
PINECIL Soldering Iron
PinePowerPSU
TS-100 Soldering Iron
AMTECH NC-559-ASM Flux
Kester 951 Flux pen
MaAnt Grinding Pen
Multicore 60/40. 0.38mm and 0.5mm solder
TL866 II Plus Programmer
RIGOL DHO800 70MHz four-channel digital scope
Tektronix 2246A 100 MHz four-channel analog scope
InfiRay P2 Pro Thermal Camera
PCBs from PCBWay.com :)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
patreon.com/Epictronics
Join me on Twitter: / epictronics1
Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio 
Наука
![Sean Rii, Karyon, Sharzkii - Taungule [My Love] (Official Music Video)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eJoMuypbSzQ/mqdefault.jpg)
That motherboard is truly a challenge. Most people would have it replaced. But i like to see you try to fix it by any means necessary.
It may take a few more attempts, but I think we can do it :)
NICE scope indeed. Those small ones can be bad but that looks very nice. As you say, nice to have something portable like that. Amazing you've got something out of that board!
Thanks Tony. Yeah, seeing something on the screen sure put a smile on my face :)
At least the new oscilloscope works & finally some graphics!
Yes, I was actually pretty pleased with the progress :)
yeah I'm right. That's only 1 hi->low beep. If you look at the chart 1 hi->low matches your on screen errors perfectly. The 2 hi->low doesn't.
Now, the beep codes make sense!
I heard the same thing!!! I came down here and found that at least one of us did so far! Good ears, hopefully he can get past this, this board is a nightmare but so much fun at the same time!
Just found your comment, after posting mid-video.
Yeah, this is a memory thing.
Probably some other commentors said it already, but I think the HI/LO count means how many times you have a Hi/Lo combo.
Meaning, with the V20 it would be in the "1 and 8" row, with "16k critical memory region" error and "1 and 4", "Timer 1".
Edit... after continuing to watch, I see it pretty much matches what the display showed.
You are right :) The beep codes make perfect sense now :)
Yeah! Congratulations on getting the PC10 doing stuff!!!!
Thanks! That felt pretty good :)
Nice to see progress on the PC 10 III!
Looks like you're getting really close, hope it's not the Faraday chip and some easier fix instead.
yeah, I think we're almost there now :)
You have a lot of determination my friend. I've picked out some other tips from you. I also have been having a problem with my desoldering gun. I put it into the "I don't have time for this" pile and used my solder pump instead. Thank you!
Glad if I can help :)
Great job you did. We like that osciloscope. Greetings from Steven from the Netherlands
Thanks!
rooting for you to fix this board. its a great feeling when you see that first sign of life.
It sure was :) Thanks
I had the same problem with nozzles on my desoldering station wearing out. The reason they wear out is because they're crap. They're made of crap metal that's not plated, they're also super thin. The heat makes them warp and flake apart.
I did some research on the nozzles because I was tired of burning through packs of them, and I found that Aven made a desoldering station that was similar enough to the generic ones on the usual markets. Except for the one major difference, they made their own nozzles. Aven nozzles were made out of Nickel I believe, and they had a thick metal ring around the tip that stands up to the heat and abrasion of rubbing on circuit boards.
I bought a pile of their nozzles of different sizes and not a single one has worn out with years of use. The generic crap nozzles would fail after just a couple of months of use. Unfortunately, Aven discontinued the nozzles and they're no longer available. I bought the last few on Mouser when I saw the EOL notice on my project page for soldering equipment.
Thank you. Thank really helps me. I have the same problem as both of you. I'll look for any remaining Aven stock.
Too bad they are EOL :/ Thanks for sharing
@@josephphillips9243 The exact part number is Aven 17401-N5-1. There's also a -2 and a -3, which are different nozzle sizes, I think they go from 0.6mm to 1.0mm
I've started doing research on nozzles again to see if there's any substitute. It looks like some types of Hakko nozzle may work, but they're crazy expensive at $20+ a piece.
@@GGigabiteM Thank you again. This will no doubt help others too... whilst stocks last for the Aven ones 😀
@@GGigabiteM: Honestly, if it's just as simple as "make the nozzle from nickel", then it's worth looking to see if a local machine shop will make them cheap enough, and if they won't then you should experiment with ad-libbing it your self:
Get some rod stock of a large-enough size, get it chucked into a hand drill, strap the drill down, set that drill going, and then take a dremel to the rod stock with it's own support. A slow process, and it may take some planning and experimenting to get the rod stock properly mounted (because you're liable to have a chuck too small to do it directly), but very doable.
When you removed the socket, theres a sketchy trace at the top you missed... Failing that, the main chip itself is probably bad. I have seen this a few times with bombed out boards especially if they were ever attempted power up when bombed. (Only halfway through the video, though)
I'll check, thanks!
Looks like a great little scope, I'm tempted but I think I'll hold off, as I really haven't used my scope that much lately.
One thing you might try is removing the faraday chip and bending the pins out slightly.
yeah, that might work. I thought I'd try to check with the scope on the actual chip pins next
Since timer channel 1 was only used for DRAM refresh many chipsets (which use their own refresh mechanism) don't bother implementing it. You can probably ignore that error. I now see the datasheet says "3 timer channels" so I don't know what to think now, maybe it's implemented slightly differently. The 16k critical RAM error seems like it might be the ultimate problem, hopefully it's an easy fix.
yeah, I think we're getting close to a working board now :)
I only hear 1 high beep.
I think you're right. I totally misunderstood that as being two beeps. Now, the beep codes make sense!
@26:08 "Gonna go see the spirit in the sky!"
Norman Greenbaum! Love that song, I even have the 7" vinyl :)
Very cool! Thanks for sharing!
I should have another go at my PC 20 III I can't even get the PSU running on that 😊
I think they share motherboard? How's the battery damage on your board?
Bad, the crusty bits are less than yours but there are tiny black dots pretty much all over. The PSU looks fine but I only get as far as DC mains.
The only difference between the PC 10/20 III is the added XT-ATA harddisk. :)
Commodore 1901 monitor. Nice. I have one too. I hope you have removed the RIFA cap in there.....
I sure have. It looks perfect on top of the PC 10 :)
I’m having flashbacks! I saw the BIOS on retro web as a this week I downloaded a bios and flashed my retro pc and completely messed it up, would no longer see the hard drives and locked up. Luckily I managed to find another compatible bios and reflashed it from a boot floppy! 😂
On a Commodore PC 10?
I do over 100 repairs a year.... why can't they send me a free scope? LOL!
did you try cleaning the old nozzle with a metal rod? you just shove a metal rod up the tip(yeah i know) while it's hot to clear some blockage that may have collected in there. i bet your desoldering station came with one just for this purpose.
yeah, I regularly clean the nozzle with that tool. However, the tip on two of the nozzles is all messed up. I think air is leaking in from all sides of the nozzles
@@Epictronics1 : Maybe for the future, you might want to clean the nozzles after using them on nasty / corroded solder... not just cleaning them out with a rod, but also use something to remove any corrosion residue, that might eat on it.
@@bikkiikun Yeah, I frequently use my tips on corroded boards. Maybe, that's why my nozzles are so messed up
its as bad as Shaun's cursed mac (Action retro) it took ages aswell to fix up
The amtech flux you are using is that the UV one?
I use NC-559-ASM
"Today we have a new toy to test"... That's what she said...