Ha! I found that tip from another video actually! I forgot to mention it. I wish I remembered which video it was... It was a brilliant idea and worked great.
Great job as usual! Glad you found a front subframe! I finally got around to changing my rear trailing arm bushings. Had to remove trailing arms and sent them to shop to press out bushings. I couldn’t make up my mind so I ended going half and half with OEM for insides and power flex outside haha. Strange I know but what a difference in ride quality. Then changed my rear subframe bushings and rear sway bar links and some new exhaust hangers. I ran into one big issue though, if you do any rear end work like I did make sure you are prepared to deal with the LAD suspension hydraulic lines. Mine were fairly corroded being a NFLD car and supply line to control valve and discharge line from control valve both sprung leaks. Pentosin everywhere!
Thanks! Glad you got your trailing arm bushings finally changed. Good idea to send them to a shop for pressing, they are equipped to do this stuff regularly. The LAD stuff doesn't sound fun. My lines are corroded too, I will have to replace them in the future. I read that the "beer can" subframe bushings are difficult to press in and out. Is that the case?
@@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec yes, replacing the rear subframe bushing with OEM ones was a bit difficult. Pushing them out with weight of car was not enough and needed blow torch. When installing you can get them started fairly straight by using floor jack and jacking them into place. But for final inch or so you need a either a press tool with thread rod that would fit up through or what I used a long two jaw puller to grab top of subframe and push them in. When seated properly they stick up past the top of subframe so can’t finish with jack.
Vraiment inréressant ! Je ne me suis pas encore aventuré à fabriquer mes propres lignes de freins ! Respect!! Quel est encore le kit que vous avez acheté pour ''flarer'' ? Merci!
Voici l'outil que j'ai utilisé pour "flarer", acheté sur Amazon: AB Tools Brake Pipe Flaring Tool Professional in-situ 4.75mm DIN Hand Held FL27 Il est cher, mais comparé à un kit régulier, même par Lisle Tools, cet outil fait un meilleur travail. Après 2-3 essais les flares étaient parfaits à chaque fois. La section conique était consistante et aucune fuite de liquide à frein. Je recommande! Le plus "difficile" était de former la ligne de frein pour imiter l'originale de BMW. Mais même là, avec du nicop (nickel copper), c'est un jeu d'enfant car le tuyau est très flexible et il pardonne si l'on doit rajuster après coup. Beaucoup mieux que la ligne d'acier que j'avais commandé de BMW.
Yes I agree - what a wonderfully good excited and organised project. That’s saved considerable costs. Another option would be to send off all 4 and have a calliper specialist rebuild and reseal them but that might take 3/4 weeks and it would all have to go away. Good you used the old callipers and have added the right coating to counter heat build up too. You also have a lovely rebuilt parking brake- was it just cleaned? The result will remove that sluggish brake softness. Great job. Looks like the replacement subframe is spot on and be good to put both side by side so it’s terribleness can be revealed. I do agree replacing the entire steering and alignment parts is the only way to go. You will find my e32 reviewed on the Channel furious driving and before we had fixed the stuck fan! But you can’t fix it all at once. Best wishes Lee
Thanks Lee, very encouraging :) Yes I replaced the parking brake shoes and also the hardware (clips and springs). Also greased the cable pin and applied anti-seize behind the shoes. I'll try to show both subframes to try to identify where the difference is. I agree with replacing everything, at this age it's not logical to ride on old stock parts and expect original performance. I saw your car in that review before! It's a very nice example. We never got the cloth seats in Canada (nor in USA). I think I prefer them to the leather, they require less maintenance. Keep taking care of that E32!
Hey man, I have almost the same car like you, so I was wondering if you know what are the dimensions (height especially) of original rear suspension coil springs? Need to buy new ones and ones I currently have are not original :/
Thank you so much for sharing your job and experience
Really enjoyed that video, especially where you pushed the piston back into the caliper to clean it up, smart!
Ha! I found that tip from another video actually! I forgot to mention it. I wish I remembered which video it was... It was a brilliant idea and worked great.
Great video, I’m glad you found a front subframe in good conditions. That door closing sound is really really good!
Great video! About to do mine tomorrow
Great job as usual! Glad you found a front subframe!
I finally got around to changing my rear trailing arm bushings. Had to remove trailing arms and sent them to shop to press out bushings.
I couldn’t make up my mind so I ended going half and half with OEM for insides and power flex outside haha. Strange I know but what a difference in ride quality.
Then changed my rear subframe bushings and rear sway bar links and some new exhaust hangers.
I ran into one big issue though, if you do any rear end work like I did make sure you are prepared to deal with the LAD suspension hydraulic lines. Mine were fairly corroded being a NFLD car and supply line to control valve and discharge line from control valve both sprung leaks. Pentosin everywhere!
Thanks!
Glad you got your trailing arm bushings finally changed. Good idea to send them to a shop for pressing, they are equipped to do this stuff regularly. The LAD stuff doesn't sound fun. My lines are corroded too, I will have to replace them in the future. I read that the "beer can" subframe bushings are difficult to press in and out. Is that the case?
@@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec yes, replacing the rear subframe bushing with OEM ones was a bit difficult. Pushing them out with weight of car was not enough and needed blow torch.
When installing you can get them started fairly straight by using floor jack and jacking them into place. But for final inch or so you need a either a press tool with thread rod that would fit up through or what I used a long two jaw puller to grab top of subframe and push them in. When seated properly they stick up past the top of subframe so can’t finish with jack.
Keep up the good work!!
Cheers! :)
Great video.
Keep up man ✌️
Thanks Ahmed!
Vraiment inréressant ! Je ne me suis pas encore aventuré à fabriquer mes propres lignes de freins ! Respect!! Quel est encore le kit que vous avez acheté pour ''flarer'' ? Merci!
Voici l'outil que j'ai utilisé pour "flarer", acheté sur Amazon: AB Tools Brake Pipe Flaring Tool Professional in-situ 4.75mm DIN Hand Held FL27
Il est cher, mais comparé à un kit régulier, même par Lisle Tools, cet outil fait un meilleur travail. Après 2-3 essais les flares étaient parfaits à chaque fois. La section conique était consistante et aucune fuite de liquide à frein. Je recommande!
Le plus "difficile" était de former la ligne de frein pour imiter l'originale de BMW. Mais même là, avec du nicop (nickel copper), c'est un jeu d'enfant car le tuyau est très flexible et il pardonne si l'on doit rajuster après coup. Beaucoup mieux que la ligne d'acier que j'avais commandé de BMW.
Yes I agree - what a wonderfully good excited and organised project. That’s saved considerable costs. Another option would be to send off all 4 and have a calliper specialist rebuild and reseal them but that might take 3/4 weeks and it would all have to go away. Good you used the old callipers and have added the right coating to counter heat build up too. You also have a lovely rebuilt parking brake- was it just cleaned? The result will remove that sluggish brake softness. Great job.
Looks like the replacement subframe is spot on and be good to put both side by side so it’s terribleness can be revealed. I do agree replacing the entire steering and alignment parts is the only way to go. You will find my e32 reviewed on the Channel furious driving and before we had fixed the stuck fan! But you can’t fix it all at once.
Best wishes
Lee
Thanks Lee, very encouraging :) Yes I replaced the parking brake shoes and also the hardware (clips and springs). Also greased the cable pin and applied anti-seize behind the shoes.
I'll try to show both subframes to try to identify where the difference is. I agree with replacing everything, at this age it's not logical to ride on old stock parts and expect original performance.
I saw your car in that review before! It's a very nice example. We never got the cloth seats in Canada (nor in USA). I think I prefer them to the leather, they require less maintenance. Keep taking care of that E32!
Hey man, I have almost the same car like you, so I was wondering if you know what are the dimensions (height especially) of original rear suspension coil springs? Need to buy new ones and ones I currently have are not original :/
Sorry, I don't have that information :\
Thank you anyways :)
Good executed …
Thanks for watching!