Nice. Got two of these, one was very hard to open. Learned from Cold Steel support that the Tri-Ad locking system might require a "break-in". Got the following advice. Tried the second one and it worked fine after a day open: "1- Open and close the knife repeatedly. You do not have to open it all the way to the locked position, just work the blade back and forth. This may take a few hundred opening actions to get the spring to relax enough to make the lock easier to operate. 2- Open the knife 1/2 way to 90 degrees. Put it down somewhere safe. Leave it alone for 3 or 4 days. This will put constant pressure against the spring and again should loosen it up to make operating the lock easier." btw they got them w/various handle colors now I notice, not just the gray.
well there are people out there that would simply match the grind angle and try to sharpen it that way and not do it properly or consistently and mess it up...anyone with experience can say something like that its like if you hopped ina race car and crashed and someone told you how can you not drive 140 around a turn? lol
haha think jeff is over thinking it or something they are by far the easiest to sharpen you would have to be a complete idiot to change the edge geometry trying to sharpen it i mean five seconds on a polishing wheel will sharpen a scandi grind
Scandi-grinds = One angle each side to keep track of. Double-bevels = Two angles each sides to keep track of. In my book that makes scandi-grinds easier to sharpen... Thumb the blade onto the stone, "clicks" into place, draw, done. No wiggling about with that secondary bevel, no hand-eye measuring, just push - draw -done.
The zoomed-in thing was the spring, it doesnt add to lateral structural load strength. The lock bar may add some rigidity, but it shouldnt be depended upon two jobs of holding the blade fixed AND providing structural integrity when the handle material would probably fail first, perhaps moreso in colder weather, disintegrating from the mechanism of locking.
I find scandi grinds extremely easy to sharpen. You have to have the right grits so you don't leave scratches. Just keep the bevel flat on the stone, and you're good. I actually find it easier, by hand, than 2 bevel geometry.
kittehdrawrs 0 degree angle means there is no angle. there is only one angle on the blade which means the 2nd angle is 0 degrees, it's not math it's a knife
>> but, but, but ... I agree "that's stupid" !! I have attempted to explain in serparate comment. Knives do not have zero-degree bevels, or zero-degree edges. Even a wood-scraper (or knife spine used for scraping) that includes no typical primary-grind actually has a ~90° bevel.
I got mine in a regular box for $35 and I love it. Performs great as long as you keep it oiled. It tends to rust on me more than my other Cold Steels in my experience. Going to carry it again tomorrow since it's not supposed to be as hot and humid in my area!! Haha
For those wondering, cold steel fixed the problem of the lock back jamming so the new knife works perfectly. Many old reviews say that this happened a lot.
My son and I both have the Finn Wolf, and switch it out with other knives in our EDCs. The thing comes razor sharp. I actually cut myself on the very first day of owning it (being stupid trying to close it by swinging the blade after engaging the lock-back). Won't do that again!
So I guess that the fact that the grind starts so far down on the blade helps with it not being easily chippable. the spyderco fixed and folding versions edges were really sharp, but even the store displays had chips in the edge. It was too thin.
I like that knife as well...but just wondering, what you think of the lesser known Cold Steel Mora?...AKA the Finn Hawk....more or less a fixed blade version of the Finn Wolf.....
the way we sharpen scandi grinds here in sweden is just draging the edge across a grinder a couple of times. thats why all the old moras have like a 5mm flat side left
I usually strop my scandi-grinds, 5 each side, "rounds" off the edge slightly, so mine would have a microscopic secondary bevel. Prevents chipping though.
Hey cutlerylover really liked the educational aspect of the video. Could you make a knife information for beginners video/video series. Include things like what the different steels are and how they rank, different locking mechanisms grinds and so on. I have a lot of friends I know would be interested in that, and I'm sure more people would enjoy getting to know that information
Hey Jeff, great video review of the Finn Wolf!! I have one question for you if you don't mind. I just got my ViperSharp sharpening system in the mail a few days ago which I bought several months ago through Vipersharps kick starter campaign. I already used it once and it's pretty awesome so far! I was wondering if you happened to get yours hands on the final production version of the ViperSharp system like I did. I'm asking because I do remember you had a while ago a video showing a review of an earlier prototype of it. If you got it, are you eventually going to do a first impression video of the ViperSharp for us? I'd like to know what you think of it!!
Cold Steel makes a great knife without an overly aggressive handle texture that instantly destroys for pants pockets, which is awesome!! But unfortunately keeps it was one of their only knives not to get the CTS XHP steel upgrade! I see the Finn Wolf as more of an EDC carry knife. I'm sure the Tri-Ad lock won't fail you if your using it in the woods, I'm more concerned about very small fine wood shavings/particles and crap getting in the pivot and Tri-Ad lock bar interface.
I had some minor chipping on mine just from light use but after I fixed it i haven't had any issues. the thumb screw sucks because you can't sharpen the whole blade without removing it
I really wish Cold Steel would have used CTS XHP which is now standard on most of their knives now, instead of using AUS 8A. Because if I'm going to use a bush craft knife while doing some serious camping in the woods I'm still going to go with a fixed blade(scandi grind) over a folder even if that folder has the Tri-Ad lock. I see the Finn Wolf as more of an EDC folder because of it 3.4oz weight! So I don't see the need to go with the softer more easier to sharpen AUS 8A. I really like this knife, but would prefer CTS XHP blade steel instead and wouldn't mind paying a little more for the steel upgrade !!
Any reason they wouldn't have this in CTS-XHP? If they end up updating it later on with CTS-XHP I'd rather wait for that version than get the AUS8 one.
I do agree with you on sharpening. but I think it depends on the system someone has. these are extremely easy to sharpen on stones or at least I think they are and as long as you are aware of that grind you'll be good to go. there is so much surface that contacts the stone it's easier to keep your angle. but yes I'm sure some people have moras all screwed up from sharpening the wrong way.
yes and one of the few knives you see the blade while clipped to your pocket...might be a good point for those who dont want to draw attention to the fact they have a knife in their pocket...
IDK, maybe it's because I am a knife guy, but a Scandi is the easiest to sharpen on a stone. Just press it down and go for it. No guess work involved at all. I wouldn't try to do it on a Lansky system though or you will end up with that secondary bevel. I use a strop like you, but when I need to I use the Spyderco Double Stuff ceramic in the field or their Whet Stone ceramic's at home!
it's easy to sharpen, just use a leather strop often and you won't need stones unless of course you damage the blade. Also the thumb stud is removable.
Scandi grinds are great. If you want a great scandi grind fixed blade check out the Helle Utvær(or Utvaer). It's a knife with the traditional finnish scandi grind, danish designer, swedish steel and Norwegian maker.
Considering buying this or a mora eldris for a small backpacking/light bushcraft blade (fell in love with scandi grinds). Considering both arnt hard use blades kinda hard to decide. Decisions.... interested in your opinion/possible other recommendations. Ps i already have a larger mora knife but looking for a smaller footprint @cutlerylover
The deal with a "Scandi grind" (That should really be a Nordic grind, since Finland is NOT Scandinavian), is that there is more material behind the edge. And they are easy to sharpen. The old red grip Mora knives with laminated blades were super easy to sharpen, since only a thin core of the edge was hard, usually very hard.
As far as Scandi style blades... I only own one, from TOPS (and its a neck knife). It's bit thinner than my other knives, but its very precise. I wouldn't mind owning one that's bit bigger than the one I have. As far as sharpening goes... I am currently running the Scandi on 30 degree (15 degree each side) on the Spyderco sharpening rod system.
I carry a scandi trekker fixed blade everyday and I have never touched it to stone. As long as you use diamond compound around the 3 micron range, you will never have to profile or sharpenyour scandi grind unless you chip it out.
Hey Jeff, love your videos. learned a lot from you.. question for you, I just purchased a strop from stropman. I'm not sure if I should use black componds on one side and white on the other or white and green? any advise would be great!!
Does anyone know what the factory shapening angle is on this knife. I cant find anything on angle. Even tried to call coldsteel and all that got me was some damm asian gal that was dumb as a nox of rocks.. she mentioned 20 degrees but that seems a bit high of an angld gor this knife.
At 8:50 the train goes off the tracks! Knife bevel angles are measured from the centerline. There is no such thing as a zero-degree grind, unless you are maybe discussing a scraper with a 90° (or maybe the spine side of the blade, but even then NO!). Your Espada cutting-edge angle (at hypothetically referenced 20-dps) is 20° off the center-line (which is parralel to face), and FinnWolf has cutting-edge angle measured from center-line (probably around 13-dps, my FinnWolf currently at ~9-dps) is certainly not a zero-degree angle or bevel. Ignorantly repeating what others say (zero-grind) is a disservice to our community. If you want to make a case that there is zero-degree difference between primary and secondary bevels (aka scandi-grind to cutting edge) , then you would first need to state that you are using the primary-grind as your baseline (something nobody does). Hopefully ..., my comments here are taken as intended, effort to correct ignorant parroting in community for bennifit of us all. Enjoyed the video up to this point.
on paper maybe...but the knife community understand and uses this terminology to explain sharpening...if a standard knife has a 40 degree inclusive edge and you take that away it becomes 0...for the people who see the entire grind as the edge and edge angle you will find yourself struggling to sharpen it that way...but by all means do as you please...
kittehdrawrs Math doesn't work that way. But this isn't math. It's just how some people describe a thing. On typical blade grinds, there's a secondary bevel whose angle is described in degrees. Everyone knows this. Anyone familiar with a Scandi grind knows there's no secondary angle, so the secondary angle is expressed as "0 degrees." But do whatever floats your boat.
typical scandi grinds are about 11 degrees for a total angle of 22 degrees. the difference is the entire grind bevel is (and terminates at) the edge. The edge has an angle if it didn't then it would not exist.
Sam Done I know it has an angle. But please note that I was talking about a secondary angle, of which a scandi grind has none. Hence 0. This whole discussion has nothing to do with math and everything to do with semantics. Call it whatever you want.
so with currency it would cost 23€.. well they have get the money back from shipping from to US to Finland, but its still kinda high price.. I've gotten scandi grind Damascus steel knife, with walnut handle and leather sheath for 25€ in finland.. And I can bet that it will perform much better than Finn Wolf
coming from Norway, I find scandi ground knives a lot easier to sharpen than your flat and hollow ground knives.. but that is probably because scandi grinds is what i've used my entire life from I was 4 or 5 years old and also sharpened them :)
I cannot speak for chineese-american tacticool junk but most other "scandi grind" knives have either a secondary micro bevel or are slightly convexed and should be sharpened as such. If you dont you will end up taking an insane amount of metal off when you have to sharpen because the entire side will have to be ground down. This is especially bad if your edge is dented. If you want a proper scandi folder that is actually made in scandinavia I would suggest swedish brand EKA or some of the many awesome finnish manufacturers like Martiini..
Sharpening a scandi edge isn't difficult, it's just more work. You gotta remove a lot of metal from the entire face of the bevel. I really dislike scandi edge knives because although they work fine with soft materials, firm materials resist cutting like uncooked potatoes, styrofoam or plastic. The broad "shoulders" of the single bevel get wedged in the material and interfere with the cut.
your looking at it like the entire grind is your cutting angle, if you see it that was then the angle changes for the thickness of the blade and your only grind becomes your edge angle but to sharpen it that precisely would be amazing I would think most if not all of the time you couldn't match that angle perfectly for sharpening and therefore would be changing it every time you sharpen your knife
I disagree I think Scandinavian grinds are easier you could feel the edge just keep it in contact with the stone versus something like my Tuff Lite I can't even see the edge or angle
Well, it's not actually 0 degrees, the angle of the edge is the same as the angle of the 1st angle as you call it. A 0 degree edge can't exist as it has no surface whatsoever, implying that there is no matter in the area described. tl;dr it's not 0 degrees, it's the same angle all the way to the edge from the "1st angle change"
the edge angle is 0 degrees on all scandi grind, if you think of the entie grind as being the "edge" then the angle would change depending on the blade thickness...
cutlerylover wouldn't the angle of the edge depend on the steepness of the grind? If you were to sharpen the knife, what angle would you sharpen it at to do it properly? Certainly not 0 degrees right? I will admit though that you know much more about knives than I do. I do know a decent amount, but the mathematical part of me feels wrong calling it a '0 degree edge'. Thanks for the reply Jeff!
ranting about crappy school policies, I was at school today a fairly productive day going to all my classes, I was fine untill my last class I didn't realize this but apparently everyone els did. and I didn't learn this untill the principal came down and pulled me out of wood shop he asked me what was in my pocket I thought he was talking about my phone nope he was talking about my zt 0456, I had no idea what was wrong with it untill a couple of seconds thinking about it and then I was like uhh oh and he told me to give it to him so I said ok, and we walked down to his office and he had a cop waiting in his office, with me being sixteen and having a weapon/tool on school grounds i was lucky enough to not get out on probation instead they took my favorite knife and suspended me for the week. you know being part of the knife community I have been collecting knives for a couple of years so I always put a knife in my right pocket and go on with my day, my point is that it's greying harder and harder to carry knives I saved up to buy my 220$ zt 0456 and to have it taken and not given back is hard for me because I spent months saving and it's all gone to waist. sorry for my horrible grammar and spelling thx for reading my rant.
Clifford Hahaj I accidentally took a knife to school on multiple occasions. my woodshop teacher pointed it out one time and I just handed it to her and she gave it back to me after school. it was a gerber F.A.S.T. it was a tanto with a black blade and black handle. looked extra scary, I called it my "nothin special" knife because it was one of the cheapest knifes I ever bought but it was by far my favorite to carry, comfortable, razor sharp, it got ran over by a car on a couple of occasions and worked great. unfortunately it got stolen out of my car one day at school. I bought 2 more cause I loved it so much
cutlerylover I'm not saying is a new design, but it has become more common in the past century or so. But for what I've seen, that isn't the most traditional of designs.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice. Got two of these, one was very hard to open. Learned from Cold Steel support that the Tri-Ad locking system might require a "break-in". Got the following advice. Tried the second one and it worked fine after a day open:
"1- Open and close the knife repeatedly. You do not have to open it all the way to the locked position, just work the blade back and forth. This may take a few hundred opening actions to get the spring to relax enough to make the lock easier to operate.
2- Open the knife 1/2 way to 90 degrees. Put it down somewhere safe. Leave it alone for 3 or 4 days. This will put constant pressure against the spring and again should loosen it up to make operating the lock easier."
btw they got them w/various handle colors now I notice, not just the gray.
How do you mess up sharpening a scandi blade?
well there are people out there that would simply match the grind angle and try to sharpen it that way and not do it properly or consistently and mess it up...anyone with experience can say something like that its like if you hopped ina race car and crashed and someone told you how can you not drive 140 around a turn? lol
haha think jeff is over thinking it or something they are by far the easiest to sharpen
you would have to be a complete idiot to change the edge geometry trying to sharpen it i mean five seconds on a polishing wheel will sharpen a scandi grind
cutlerylover it just seems so simple to me. It might be because I've gotten used to it from a young age.
Scandi-grinds = One angle each side to keep track of.
Double-bevels = Two angles each sides to keep track of.
In my book that makes scandi-grinds easier to sharpen... Thumb the blade onto the stone, "clicks" into place, draw, done. No wiggling about with that secondary bevel, no hand-eye measuring, just push - draw -done.
Niels Egense exactly
Hmm, took mine apart for cleaning. No steel liners at all. Did CS changed that?
But i'm really happy with the Finn Wolf, great woods blade!
The zoomed-in thing was the spring, it doesnt add to lateral structural load strength. The lock bar may add some rigidity, but it shouldnt be depended upon two jobs of holding the blade fixed AND providing structural integrity when the handle material would probably fail first, perhaps moreso in colder weather, disintegrating from the mechanism of locking.
I find scandi grinds extremely easy to sharpen. You have to have the right grits so you don't leave scratches. Just keep the bevel flat on the stone, and you're good. I actually find it easier, by hand, than 2 bevel geometry.
0 degree angle?, jeff that isn't how geometry works, a 0 degree angle is a ray
kittehdrawrs 0 degree angle means there is no angle. there is only one angle on the blade which means the 2nd angle is 0 degrees, it's not math it's a knife
but but but...thats stupid!
>> but, but, but ... I agree "that's stupid" !!
I have attempted to explain in serparate comment.
Knives do not have zero-degree bevels, or zero-degree edges.
Even a wood-scraper (or knife spine used for scraping) that includes no typical primary-grind actually has a ~90° bevel.
I got mine in a regular box for $35 and I love it. Performs great as long as you keep it oiled. It tends to rust on me more than my other Cold Steels in my experience. Going to carry it again tomorrow since it's not supposed to be as hot and humid in my area!! Haha
ive had a finn wolf for about a month, and i love it. only had to strop a couple times and its still razor sharp.
For those wondering, cold steel fixed the problem of the lock back jamming so the new knife works perfectly. Many old reviews say that this happened a lot.
Definitely picking one of these up. Love the videos Jeff, been waiting on this one for a while now!
My son and I both have the Finn Wolf, and switch it out with other knives in our EDCs. The thing comes razor sharp. I actually cut myself on the very first day of owning it (being stupid trying to close it by swinging the blade after engaging the lock-back). Won't do that again!
I'm a simple man really. My favorite animal is a wolf so when there are things that have wolf in its name it makes me want it.
So I guess that the fact that the grind starts so far down on the blade helps with it not being easily chippable. the spyderco fixed and folding versions edges were really sharp, but even the store displays had chips in the edge. It was too thin.
I like that knife as well...but just wondering, what you think of the lesser known Cold Steel Mora?...AKA the Finn Hawk....more or less a fixed blade version of the Finn Wolf.....
the way we sharpen scandi grinds here in sweden is just draging the edge across a grinder a couple of times. thats why all the old moras have like a 5mm flat side left
Great job on explaining the difference in grinds.
How come yours has metal liners? Every other video I've seen shows no liners, Did CS update the Finn wolf recently?
He goofed on that one
If you look at the finnwolf under magnification, it actually does have a tiny secondary microbevel at the edge. At least the one I looked at did.
I usually strop my scandi-grinds, 5 each side, "rounds" off the edge slightly, so mine would have a microscopic secondary bevel. Prevents chipping though.
Hey cutlerylover really liked the educational aspect of the video. Could you make a knife information for beginners video/video series. Include things like what the different steels are and how they rank, different locking mechanisms grinds and so on. I have a lot of friends I know would be interested in that, and I'm sure more people would enjoy getting to know that information
Excellent explanation of the different grinds thanks for the great video
Hey Jeff, great video review of the Finn Wolf!! I have one question for you if you don't mind. I just got my ViperSharp sharpening system in the mail a few days ago which I bought several months ago through Vipersharps kick starter campaign. I already used it once and it's pretty awesome so far! I was wondering if you happened to get yours hands on the final production version of the ViperSharp system like I did. I'm asking because I do remember you had a while ago a video showing a review of an earlier prototype of it. If you got it, are you eventually going to do a first impression video of the ViperSharp for us? I'd like to know what you think of it!!
Cold Steel makes a great knife without an overly aggressive handle texture that instantly destroys for pants pockets, which is awesome!! But unfortunately keeps it was one of their only knives not to get the CTS XHP steel upgrade! I see the Finn Wolf as more of an EDC carry knife. I'm sure the Tri-Ad lock won't fail you if your using it in the woods, I'm more concerned about very small fine wood shavings/particles and crap getting in the pivot and Tri-Ad lock bar interface.
I had some minor chipping on mine just from light use but after I fixed it i haven't had any issues. the thumb screw sucks because you can't sharpen the whole blade without removing it
I just ordered this knife! I hope it's as great as you said it is.
Very nice vid, both on the knife and the edges. Good demo on how the edges differ. Nice job, Thanks.
I really wish Cold Steel would have used CTS XHP which is now standard on most of their knives now, instead of using AUS 8A. Because if I'm going to use a bush craft knife while doing some serious camping in the woods I'm still going to go with a fixed blade(scandi grind) over a folder even if that folder has the Tri-Ad lock. I see the Finn Wolf as more of an EDC folder because of it 3.4oz weight! So I don't see the need to go with the softer more easier to sharpen AUS 8A. I really like this knife, but would prefer CTS XHP blade steel instead and wouldn't mind paying a little more for the steel upgrade !!
Any reason they wouldn't have this in CTS-XHP?
If they end up updating it later on with CTS-XHP I'd rather wait for that version than get the AUS8 one.
I do agree with you on sharpening. but I think it depends on the system someone has. these are extremely easy to sharpen on stones or at least I think they are and as long as you are aware of that grind you'll be good to go. there is so much surface that contacts the stone it's easier to keep your angle. but yes I'm sure some people have moras all screwed up from sharpening the wrong way.
I give you a thumbs up even before I watch your video because I really enjoy you and your channel
thanks
hey, have you ever watced jeff's 'dislike this video' video? lol
Is it me or that knife has fantastic blade to handle length ratio?
Goran Radovanović I agree
yes and one of the few knives you see the blade while clipped to your pocket...might be a good point for those who dont want to draw attention to the fact they have a knife in their pocket...
IDK, maybe it's because I am a knife guy, but a Scandi is the easiest to sharpen on a stone. Just press it down and go for it. No guess work involved at all. I wouldn't try to do it on a Lansky system though or you will end up with that secondary bevel. I use a strop like you, but when I need to I use the Spyderco Double Stuff ceramic in the field or their Whet Stone ceramic's at home!
it's easy to sharpen, just use a leather strop often and you won't need stones unless of course you damage the blade. Also the thumb stud is removable.
dont ever use that marker again...
D BT Ditto
Scandi grinds are great. If you want a great scandi grind fixed blade check out the Helle Utvær(or Utvaer).
It's a knife with the traditional finnish scandi grind, danish designer, swedish steel and Norwegian maker.
Considering buying this or a mora eldris for a small backpacking/light bushcraft blade (fell in love with scandi grinds). Considering both arnt hard use blades kinda hard to decide. Decisions.... interested in your opinion/possible other recommendations. Ps i already have a larger mora knife but looking for a smaller footprint @cutlerylover
The deal with a "Scandi grind" (That should really be a Nordic grind, since Finland is NOT Scandinavian), is that there is more material behind the edge. And they are easy to sharpen. The old red grip Mora knives with laminated blades were super easy to sharpen, since only a thin core of the edge was hard, usually very hard.
As far as Scandi style blades... I only own one, from TOPS (and its a neck knife). It's bit thinner than my other knives, but its very precise. I wouldn't mind owning one that's bit bigger than the one I have. As far as sharpening goes... I am currently running the Scandi on 30 degree (15 degree each side) on the Spyderco sharpening rod system.
So is something like a Spyderco Manix II a scandi grind because it only has 2 grinds--the bevel and the rest of the blade? It has no flat.
The side grinds actually narrow towards the edge in that circumstance. Those aren't flats, they're full flat grinds.
Essentially, flats are truly parallel - Manix II flats intersect given a longer distance.
Thanks!
What do you think of the 10 dollar kershaw hotwire from Walmart
I carry a scandi trekker fixed blade everyday and I have never touched it to stone. As long as you use diamond compound around the 3 micron range, you will never have to profile or sharpenyour scandi grind unless you chip it out.
love the video. didn't love the sound of your dry erase marker on paper.
yeah sorry didnt even notice it while making the vid
Hey Jeff, love your videos. learned a lot from you.. question for you, I just purchased a strop from stropman. I'm not sure if I should use black componds on one side and white on the other or white and green? any advise would be great!!
How does it feel to be #4 in Knife News's top 5 Knife RUclipsrs?
Michael Mist Who's #1?
Merox Nick Shabazz.
finally the Finn wolf review!!!!!!!!!
thinking about buying this knife
Does anyone know what the factory shapening angle is on this knife. I cant find anything on angle. Even tried to call coldsteel and all that got me was some damm asian gal that was dumb as a nox of rocks.. she mentioned 20 degrees but that seems a bit high of an angld gor this knife.
I'm Scandinavian and love this knife. The shape must hit on some DNA memory because I just love it. Most of my knives are Scandinavian.
love your channel. I'm waiting to buy the Atactical A1 flashlight till you do your full review. can't wait man
I also keep mine stropped. Just set it flat and angle it to the set grind you're golden.
At 8:50 the train goes off the tracks!
Knife bevel angles are measured from the centerline. There is no such thing as a zero-degree grind, unless you are maybe discussing a scraper with a 90° (or maybe the spine side of the blade, but even then NO!).
Your Espada cutting-edge angle (at hypothetically referenced
20-dps) is 20° off the center-line (which is parralel to face), and FinnWolf has cutting-edge angle measured from center-line (probably around 13-dps, my FinnWolf currently at ~9-dps) is certainly not a zero-degree angle or bevel.
Ignorantly repeating what others say (zero-grind) is a disservice to our community.
If you want to make a case that there is zero-degree difference between primary and secondary bevels (aka scandi-grind to cutting edge) , then you would first need to state that you are using the primary-grind as your baseline (something nobody does).
Hopefully ..., my comments here are taken as intended, effort to correct ignorant parroting in community for bennifit of us all.
Enjoyed the video up to this point.
hate to say it but the scandis don't have a 0 degree edge that wouldn't make any sense according to Pythagorean theorem.
on paper maybe...but the knife community understand and uses this terminology to explain sharpening...if a standard knife has a 40 degree inclusive edge and you take that away it becomes 0...for the people who see the entire grind as the edge and edge angle you will find yourself struggling to sharpen it that way...but by all means do as you please...
that isn't how math works man.
kittehdrawrs Math doesn't work that way. But this isn't math. It's just how some people describe a thing. On typical blade grinds, there's a secondary bevel whose angle is described in degrees. Everyone knows this. Anyone familiar with a Scandi grind knows there's no secondary angle, so the secondary angle is expressed as "0 degrees."
But do whatever floats your boat.
typical scandi grinds are about 11 degrees for a total angle of 22 degrees. the difference is the entire grind bevel is (and terminates at) the edge. The edge has an angle if it didn't then it would not exist.
Sam Done I know it has an angle. But please note that I was talking about a secondary angle, of which a scandi grind has none. Hence 0. This whole discussion has nothing to do with math and everything to do with semantics. Call it whatever you want.
That knife costs 65€ in Finland
60€ in Slovakia. It's ridiculous.
Martin Mladoniczky about £50 in the uk
liam mc cusker it's $25 in America.
so with currency it would cost 23€.. well they have get the money back from shipping from to US to Finland, but its still kinda high price.. I've gotten scandi grind Damascus steel knife, with walnut handle and leather sheath for 25€ in finland.. And I can bet that it will perform much better than Finn Wolf
guys,we don't even have knives in macedonia :/ i mean we have,but the better quality ones are very expensive,that's why ebay comes handy :)
Very excellent knife review,Jeff!!!!!
love your channel. I'm waiting to buy the Atactical A1 flashlight till you do your full review. can't wait
coming from Norway, I find scandi ground knives a lot easier to sharpen than your flat and hollow ground knives.. but that is probably because scandi grinds is what i've used my entire life from I was 4 or 5 years old and also sharpened them :)
and it could be the opposite for me for the very same reason :)
absolutely! :)
Does Jeff read/reply to comments?
yeah...he does
Cool
I cannot speak for chineese-american tacticool junk but most other "scandi grind" knives have either a secondary micro bevel or are slightly convexed and should be sharpened as such. If you dont you will end up taking an insane amount of metal off when you have to sharpen because the entire side will have to be ground down. This is especially bad if your edge is dented. If you want a proper scandi folder that is actually made in scandinavia I would suggest swedish brand EKA or some of the many awesome finnish manufacturers like Martiini..
Mine came in a box from midway use.
first time listener thank you enjoyed it
Hey Jeff love the bids been watching since the beginning can u do another gun collection update
as for sharping a scandi grind best I found is an Arkansas stone.
Please do the Mora Eldris neck knife!
actually I really want one, but just dont have one yet
Can't you review fjällkniven(fallkniven) A1, S1 or F1, the pro series looks awesome
Thanks for the great vid Jeff 👍🏼
Scandi grinds are why I love my moras ❤️
Do you like convex grinds?
Sharpening a scandi edge isn't difficult, it's just more work. You gotta remove a lot of metal from the entire face of the bevel.
I really dislike scandi edge knives because although they work fine with soft materials, firm materials resist cutting like uncooked potatoes, styrofoam or plastic. The broad "shoulders" of the single bevel get wedged in the material and interfere with the cut.
Who else wants to see mora make a folding design?
Nope. One of those "if it ain't broke" situations.
i sharpen all my knifes to a scandi grind anyway so i would really like to pick this knife up.
please test a "steel will" knife.
edge comparison starts at 5:42
writing on paper with dry erase markers gives me the heebie jeebies
I would think that would be the easiest grind to hand sharpen on a stone
I sharpen the wolf just fine. Just keep the grind flat & go back & forth with your finger on the grind to keep it flat.
Scandi are the easiest to sharpen, you have a large area to find the bevel
that marker sounds horrendous how can you stand it
well because Im paying attention what whats being said, lol...
I also cut my arm open at work with the end of the handle hacking at vines.
Decent blade for the price... and I like the design minus the thumb stud
0 degree edge?
if the first angle is the cutting angle doesnt that mean that's the degree ???
your looking at it like the entire grind is your cutting angle, if you see it that was then the angle changes for the thickness of the blade and your only grind becomes your edge angle but to sharpen it that precisely would be amazing I would think most if not all of the time you couldn't match that angle perfectly for sharpening and therefore would be changing it every time you sharpen your knife
I got mine in a traditional Cold Steel box
I wish it had a better steel
Scandi blades aren't 0º. That doesnt even make sense, it's literally impossible to have a 0º edged knife.
Duarte Marques 0 degree in reference to a secondary beval the blades 22 degree with no secondary beval
yep it also has a third and fourth and fifth bevel they just all happen to be zero degrees so you can't see them 🤭
AUS 8A Stainless do Suck Period....the handle ergonomics too.
Damn Jeff. You really know your onions.
I disagree I think Scandinavian grinds are easier you could feel the edge just keep it in contact with the stone versus something like my Tuff Lite I can't even see the edge or angle
Well, it's not actually 0 degrees, the angle of the edge is the same as the angle of the 1st angle as you call it. A 0 degree edge can't exist as it has no surface whatsoever, implying that there is no matter in the area described.
tl;dr it's not 0 degrees, it's the same angle all the way to the edge from the "1st angle change"
Hey Jeff! Love the review/explanation, but the scandi still has an appropriately 20 degree edge. Still an awesome job Jeff!!
the edge angle is 0 degrees on all scandi grind, if you think of the entie grind as being the "edge" then the angle would change depending on the blade thickness...
cutlerylover wouldn't the angle of the edge depend on the steepness of the grind? If you were to sharpen the knife, what angle would you sharpen it at to do it properly? Certainly not 0 degrees right? I will admit though that you know much more about knives than I do. I do know a decent amount, but the mathematical part of me feels wrong calling it a '0 degree edge'. Thanks for the reply Jeff!
reminds me a little of a folding mora
Same blade-shape and -grind, so that might be why...
Who watching this didn't already know what a scandi is?
is there such thing as a good quality, we'll made NO AUTOMATIC stilleto. and if so please point me twords it
notice me jeffy
Owen Garcia senpai
Hey Owen
cutlerylover do you think you will do more balisong videos?
Owen Garcia whoa whoa...you only asked him to *notice* you. you did not ask him to be your waifu.
Jeff, you're pretty awesome.
Interesting in that Finland is not part of Scandinavia.
I feel the need sharpen one now
ranting about crappy school policies,
I was at school today a fairly productive day going to all my classes, I was fine untill my last class I didn't realize this but apparently everyone els did. and I didn't learn this untill the principal came down and pulled me out of wood shop he asked me what was in my pocket I thought he was talking about my phone nope he was talking about my zt 0456, I had no idea what was wrong with it untill a couple of seconds thinking about it and then I was like uhh oh and he told me to give it to him so I said ok, and we walked down to his office and he had a cop waiting in his office, with me being sixteen and having a weapon/tool on school grounds i was lucky enough to not get out on probation instead they took my favorite knife and suspended me for the week. you know being part of the knife community I have been collecting knives for a couple of years so I always put a knife in my right pocket and go on with my day, my point is that it's greying harder and harder to carry knives I saved up to buy my 220$ zt 0456 and to have it taken and not given back is hard for me because I spent months saving and it's all gone to waist. sorry for my horrible grammar and spelling thx for reading my rant.
Clifford Hahaj I accidentally took a knife to school on multiple occasions. my woodshop teacher pointed it out one time and I just handed it to her and she gave it back to me after school. it was a gerber F.A.S.T. it was a tanto with a black blade and black handle. looked extra scary, I called it my "nothin special" knife because it was one of the cheapest knifes I ever bought but it was by far my favorite to carry, comfortable, razor sharp, it got ran over by a car on a couple of occasions and worked great. unfortunately it got stolen out of my car one day at school. I bought 2 more cause I loved it so much
brandon casey Well it sux that you had it stolen and unfortunately my shop teachers policies aren't as Leanyant as yours
brandon casey And I'll make sure to check out the Gerber F.A.S.T sounds like a good knife
which school is this?
Should've had your parents take it back.
$35 at Knifeworks
The knife's design isn't really all that traditional. It replicates the more modern "mass produced" puukko knives.
by modern do you mean 100 years old? www.jaegerplatoon.net/BAYONETS_AND_PUUKKO.htm
cutlerylover I'm not saying is a new design, but it has become more common in the past century or so. But for what I've seen, that isn't the most traditional of designs.
i like the second one
i thought its standard
thank you a lot!!
0 degree has maybe paper. but even there is only 1 gring it shill has about 20 degrees ... you cannot say there is 0 ....
there are no liners in the finn wolf.