@@dictum if the wood piece was held vertical I expect the cut would have little to no tearout. That would be awkward so probably better cut on a typical router table with a vertical spindle. Scoring with a knife would also help if one has no other options. It is a nice design.
@@EdwardKowalski With this specific cut a router coming from underneath would have been the right choice. If you want to do it as seen here at least put some tape on the cut, which helps quite a lot. To make it perfect you need a sacrificial piece of wood under the actual piece or be brave enough to reverse the direction of cut and feed the board from the right (caution, this is not recommended). The least hassle is using a different table. But there is an additional problem with tearout at the end of the board or the cut. I would use at least some tape there or another sacrificial piece. As always making it perfect need some more time/effort/tools, but if you just leave it like this probably nobody is going to know ;-)
Die beiden Triton-Fräsen werden nicht passen. Beim Makita-Trimmer könnte der Pantorouter mit einer Aufnahme für 88,7 mm vielleicht (mit Anpassungen) funktionieren. Da wir die Maschine nicht hier haben, ist das aber nur eine Vermutung!
Durch das Verkeilen werden die Fugen schön dicht und das Holz kann ungehindert arbeiten. Da hier Längsholz an Längshölz stößt, können Sie aber auch problemlos Leimen.
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At 3:23 the milling is a mess, I guess just because you can do something doesn't mean you should. :)
Do you have any suggestion to improve the result? I think, it is the usual tearout when using a router table.
@@dictum if the wood piece was held vertical I expect the cut would have little to no tearout. That would be awkward so probably better cut on a typical router table with a vertical spindle. Scoring with a knife would also help if one has no other options.
It is a nice design.
@@EdwardKowalski With this specific cut a router coming from underneath would have been the right choice. If you want to do it as seen here at least put some tape on the cut, which helps quite a lot. To make it perfect you need a sacrificial piece of wood under the actual piece or be brave enough to reverse the direction of cut and feed the board from the right (caution, this is not recommended). The least hassle is using a different table. But there is an additional problem with tearout at the end of the board or the cut. I would use at least some tape there or another sacrificial piece. As always making it perfect need some more time/effort/tools, but if you just leave it like this probably nobody is going to know ;-)
Kann man den Pantorouter auch mit dem Makita-Trimmer RT0700C oder dem Triton-Router JOF001 oder der Triton OF_TRA001_2400 ????
Die beiden Triton-Fräsen werden nicht passen. Beim Makita-Trimmer könnte der Pantorouter mit einer Aufnahme für 88,7 mm vielleicht (mit Anpassungen) funktionieren. Da wir die Maschine nicht hier haben, ist das aber nur eine Vermutung!
Hat das Verkeilen der Querstrebe einen technischen Hintergrund oder kann ich die auch einleimen?
Durch das Verkeilen werden die Fugen schön dicht und das Holz kann ungehindert arbeiten. Da hier Längsholz an Längshölz stößt, können Sie aber auch problemlos Leimen.
@@dictum Danke für die schnelle Antwort :)