I also own one of these devices. One disadvantage of this monitor is the idea that voltage can be used to define when the battery has a 100% state of charge. It should use ampere hours replaced plus a user selected % inefficiency. So if you draw 100 Ahrs from the battery you need to put say, 110 Ahrs back into it to indicate a 100% SOC. The case should have a wider lip to make mounting easier. The clips are not strong enough to keep it in place on rough roads. A wider lip with four holes for bolts or screws would be an improvement. It works, and is good value for the cost.
Omg thank you so much friend. I just hooked mine up and that’s why I’m here lol. I knew something had to go from controller bc it’s not recognizing charging. Just wanted to make sure what and how everything went so I didn’t fry something.
What's the point of it resetting itself to 100% the moment it registers the high voltage ?? Which could be 2 seconds after you turn your engine on or the sun ☀️ hits your solar panels ... You then have batteries at 70% but it has reset itself to 100% just because it has registered the high voltage , which is no indication of state of charge ...
I like the bezel idea with screwless view. the black seems to give it a rather very much cleaner look. 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 I was concerned at first from what I have been learning of voltage and 50% of amperage.. the 12.06 volts is = point of battery deterioration beginnings but loads do draw down lowers slightly till load is off and comes back up to stable and that is the 12.06 volts to be concerned with / am i getting this correct ? Iam new but not to electricity with tech radio things ,,,,, rv electric iam new, been learning LiFePO4 and attempted the switch over but the new controller to cover Lithium, AGM and LA was shipped in original shelf package and had bb noises in it so it went back, put in 2 - 235amp 6v in series LA's , maybe next year -- looking forward to installing the Renogy monitor this weekend.
When you see people’s comments makes you wonder where all the nastiness comes from? All throw I don’t agree with the way was presented to you but I agree with the gauge of the wire being way to small unless you only use it for led lights
People are just nasty. I make a video to help people but some people just need serious help, lol. Yeah if I were to show you the DC load in my camper it consists of about 5 led lights, a fan for the range hood, and the fan for the furnace. If I ran all my loads together it's probably no more than 10 amps. The wire is sufficient for my use. I wasn't the one who originally wired the camper for DC, but if and when I renovate it I'll be using thicker wire. Good luck with your install.
Just a quick question: I understand how you installed it. But your solar energy goes still straight into the batterie? I mean positive and negative wire of the solar controller you attach directly to the battery? it n ot goes through the shunt?
If you have 2x 88ah you set the Cap to 176Ah if I understand correctly. What do I set the Full V, Zero V, PowerOff and Alarm to? I have 2 SRM-27 Interstate batteries. Thanks for the vid it was awesome.
I did find another youtube video that explained it.. You have to dis-connect your original neg. cable from the battery and connect it to P- side of the shunt. Then make up a new cable to run from the negative post of your battery to the B- post of the shunt. I have a system with 5 AGM batteries strung out throughout my truck camper. It isn't as straight forward as yours. 450 watts of panels, 525 aH of Agm battery, 3,000 watt inverter. Now I know I have to run a cable from the negative post of the original battery, across the back of my camper to the shunt which is on the other side of the camper. And connect the negative post of the last battery in the string of 5 to the B- post of the shunt. Does this sound right to you?
Great video! I am having similar issue mounting my Renogy battery meter and your solution looks nice and clean. Do you have a part number and/or source for your Eaton brand screwless outlet cover ? All the outlet covers I have found, even on Eaton's website, have Decora-sized cutouts, but the cutout in your cover looks much bigger.
@@OvensGarage thanks for the reply. In re-watching the video, it seems that you enlarged a decora-seized cutout on the front plate (as well as the cutout on the back plate) to make the battery monitor fit. Then the lip of the monitor hides the rough edges of the cut in the front plate
So you found the two piece snap on cover at Lowe's? Home Depot never heard of it and I can't find it on Amazon. And I have the same ugly gaps around monitor you have. You think all Renogy had to do was make the front frame a little bigger and it could have covered all the problems people are having. Not sure I think much about Renogy's design department.
Say I want to use this monitor for my home. I have 8 batteries 100ah each. I would need two monitors in order to be able to monitor all 800ah because this Renogy is only 500a right?
Ah and A are different units. You're comparing apples and pears. You need to know the max current draw of your system (Amps). I somehow doubt your AGM battery will be drawing over 500A ever. If they are you must have some monster cables from the battery.
I have one of these monitors and I watched your video specifically to find out where to connect the P- wire to in your camper. To the " DC side of the camper " doesn't tell me where you attached the wire in your electrical system. What a disappointment, will have to watch some other youtube videos I guess.
There's a positive and negative lead that feed the DC system in my camper. If you can't figure it out for your application I'm guessing your camper wasn't setup to run on battery. Your comment is disappointing to read.
@@OvensGarage The 7-pin on my truck puts power 12v DC to my trailer (lead acid). I cut the Hot lead from the truck, I added solar and LiFePO4 batteries to the trailer. To prevent the alternator from burning up trying to charge Li. Also pull the fuse in the converter, and charge the lead acid manually (brakes) "I'm guessing your camper wasn't setup to run on battery." mine was but not LiFePO4
Good luck with that cheap n nasty charge controller & wiring to & from cc doesn't look like copper (may be tinned?) & Size of wire gauge looks too small. Fire risk if over loaded!!! Insurance claim? ❌. The poor man always pays twice! Just saying...
It's actually marine grade tinned copper, and the main power wire is fused appropriately. My old camper doesn't have much that runs on 12volt DC, no major loads.
I also own one of these devices. One disadvantage of this monitor is the idea that voltage can be used to define when the battery has a 100% state of charge. It should use ampere hours replaced plus a user selected % inefficiency. So if you draw 100 Ahrs from the battery you need to put say, 110 Ahrs back into it to indicate a 100% SOC.
The case should have a wider lip to make mounting easier. The clips are not strong enough to keep it in place on rough roads. A wider lip with four holes for bolts or screws would be an improvement.
It works, and is good value for the cost.
Just installed mine today and your vid was very helpful. Thanks!
one thing you need to add that the solar charge controler needs to go to the p- side of the shunt or it will not show charge when battery is charging
Omg thank you so much friend. I just hooked mine up and that’s why I’m here lol. I knew something had to go from controller bc it’s not recognizing charging. Just wanted to make sure what and how everything went so I didn’t fry something.
I just talked to Renology tech today and they told me the same thing after I pointed out nothing was mentioned anywhere on their site
What's the point of it resetting itself to 100% the moment it registers the high voltage ?? Which could be 2 seconds after you turn your engine on or the sun ☀️ hits your solar panels ... You then have batteries at 70% but it has reset itself to 100% just because it has registered the high voltage , which is no indication of state of charge ...
Great job love your trucks wish i still had my 93 first gen extended cab blue over silver 4x4 automatic long bed👍
That's a sweet color combo!
Thank you. I had a time trying to figure out why mine was not showing the correct Amps. Thanks on the tip of the Reset button.
Thank You , Appreciate your Time
I like the bezel idea with screwless view. the black seems to give it a rather very much cleaner look. 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 I was concerned at first from what I have been learning of voltage and 50% of amperage.. the 12.06 volts is = point of battery deterioration beginnings but loads do draw down lowers slightly till load is off and comes back up to stable and that is the 12.06 volts to be concerned with / am i getting this correct ? Iam new but not to electricity with tech radio things ,,,,, rv electric iam new, been learning LiFePO4 and attempted the switch over but the new controller to cover Lithium, AGM and LA was shipped in original shelf package and had bb noises in it so it went back, put in 2 - 235amp 6v in series LA's , maybe next year -- looking forward to installing the Renogy monitor this weekend.
When you see people’s comments makes you wonder where all the nastiness comes from? All throw I don’t agree with the way was presented to you but I agree with the gauge of the wire being way to small unless you only use it for led lights
People are just nasty. I make a video to help people but some people just need serious help, lol. Yeah if I were to show you the DC load in my camper it consists of about 5 led lights, a fan for the range hood, and the fan for the furnace. If I ran all my loads together it's probably no more than 10 amps. The wire is sufficient for my use. I wasn't the one who originally wired the camper for DC, but if and when I renovate it I'll be using thicker wire. Good luck with your install.
@@OvensGarage your good than amperage wise
Thanks for the great video. It definitely helped with my install.
I'm glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
sorry that is the negitive of the solar charge controller needs to go to the p- side or it wont show when it is chargeing
Where exactly did you run your DC wire to? I’m very new to this and getting ready to install a solar system on my trailer. Thank you!!
@@BL-lj7we I already had a positive and negative wire from the camper that ran to a battery previously
Just a quick question: I understand how you installed it. But your solar energy goes still straight into the batterie? I mean positive and negative wire of the solar controller you attach directly to the battery? it n ot goes through the shunt?
At the time yeah but I've updated my setup. Check out one of my recent videos I revamped my electrical system for my camper.
Thank you for the informational Video.
If you have 2x 88ah you set the Cap to 176Ah if I understand correctly. What do I set the Full V, Zero V, PowerOff and Alarm to? I have 2 SRM-27 Interstate batteries. Thanks for the vid it was awesome.
great video , can you share where you purchased that trim piece. thks
I got it from my local lowes.
Great job 👍
Super helpful thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
thank you!
I did find another youtube video that explained it.. You have to dis-connect your original neg. cable from the battery and connect it to P- side of the shunt. Then make up a new cable to run from the negative post of your battery to the B- post of the shunt. I have a system with 5 AGM batteries strung out throughout my truck camper. It isn't as straight forward as yours. 450 watts of panels, 525 aH of Agm battery, 3,000 watt inverter. Now I know I have to run a cable from the negative post of the original battery, across the back of my camper to the shunt which is on the other side of the camper. And connect the negative post of the last battery in the string of 5 to the B- post of the shunt. Does this sound right to you?
that makes zero sense
@@mattkruger2909But it works well.
Great video! I am having similar issue mounting my Renogy battery meter and your solution looks nice and clean. Do you have a part number and/or source for your Eaton brand screwless outlet cover ? All the outlet covers I have found, even on Eaton's website, have Decora-sized cutouts, but the cutout in your cover looks much bigger.
I just found it at my local lowes sorry if I didn't include the part number in the video
@@OvensGarage thanks for the reply. In re-watching the video, it seems that you enlarged a decora-seized cutout on the front plate (as well as the cutout on the back plate) to make the battery monitor fit. Then the lip of the monitor hides the rough edges of the cut in the front plate
@@ourungus9222 yes that's exactly what I did! And it still clips to the back plate
Lutron makes screwless cover plates too. Lowe's and HD have them all day long. Amazon has them too
Excellent
Thanks
So you found the two piece snap on cover at Lowe's? Home Depot never heard of it and I can't find it on Amazon. And I have the same ugly gaps around monitor you have. You think all Renogy had to do was make the front frame a little bigger and it could have covered all the problems people are having. Not sure I think much about Renogy's design department.
Yep I got it from my local lowes they had a bunch of them. Branding was eaton if I remember correctly
Yeah I just looked it up it's called eaton screwless wall plate
Thank you but I wish you showed how to hook up the battery monitor
I did
Say I want to use this monitor for my home. I have 8 batteries 100ah each. I would need two monitors in order to be able to monitor all 800ah because this Renogy is only 500a right?
Ah and A are different units. You're comparing apples and pears. You need to know the max current draw of your system (Amps). I somehow doubt your AGM battery will be drawing over 500A ever. If they are you must have some monster cables from the battery.
@@jonnomra I have 8 lead acid batteries.
Is there a child lock on this thing? My toddler keeps resetting it 🤦♂️
Going to the DC side of camper?? WTF does that mean???
It means the 12 volt wires that run from the battery to power all your lights, etc, in the camper.
I have one of these monitors and I watched your video specifically to find out where to connect the P- wire to in your camper. To the " DC side of the camper " doesn't tell me where you attached the wire in your electrical system. What a disappointment, will have to watch some other youtube videos I guess.
There's a positive and negative lead that feed the DC system in my camper. If you can't figure it out for your application I'm guessing your camper wasn't setup to run on battery. Your comment is disappointing to read.
@@OvensGarage
The 7-pin on my truck puts power 12v DC to my trailer (lead acid).
I cut the Hot lead from the truck, I added solar and LiFePO4 batteries to the trailer.
To prevent the alternator from burning up trying to charge Li.
Also pull the fuse in the converter, and charge the lead acid manually (brakes)
"I'm guessing your camper wasn't setup to run on battery."
mine was but not LiFePO4
Mines instruction manual said go to there website...........
Haha
dude you went from not being hooked up to being hooked up.. you didnt show us anything?!
Horrible video, how do make an “install” video and not film the installation?
He did film the installation
Good luck with that cheap n nasty charge controller & wiring to & from cc doesn't look like copper (may be tinned?) & Size of wire gauge looks too small. Fire risk if over loaded!!! Insurance claim? ❌. The poor man always pays twice! Just saying...
It's actually marine grade tinned copper, and the main power wire is fused appropriately. My old camper doesn't have much that runs on 12volt DC, no major loads.