This is nice!!am a specialist in pop too..form Nigeria lives in Nigeria..I hope to meet people in same field who are from different places so we can share ideas and improve our craft together
Thanks! I havent special viseo with making especially this kind of template and backing support mold, but i have a similar, with same principe. Hope you enjoy and it will be helpful! It have auto subtitles, link ruclips.net/video/H4bgZEuiQTg/видео.html
Love what you do.I have been asking for months to others "what the gypsum your using? I have purchased so many bags of stuff thinking it is what all y'all are using but NO. I have mold of a wall scones I want to make but nothing I have tried gives me the results like what you produce. Thanks
Thank you! We live in Russia and mostly use this one samaragips.ru/en/catalog/gips-vysokoprochnyi/gvvs-16/ You can see specifications about grinding degree bellow on the page. If you live in Europe, you may try get high-strenght gypsum fine grinding maded in France or Turkey. Friend of my friend was work on Italy 10 years ago, did gypsum stucco like on this vedeo. And waste lot of time with waiting for a delivery of good sturdy plaster from France, it seems. You may also use any kind of gypsum for pulling moldings like this video, with add simple fluff or hydraulic lime.
Great work…. I have a an old Victorian house with which has lots of old cornice , I would like to reproduce some the style is called Victorian swan neck there seems to be many variations. Would this process be the best way to replicate it? Also what would be the best way to add support to it? Fibreglass or some sort of nylon mesh like you have??? Thanks
Fiberglass mesh and you want to take a piece of the current molding and create a profile on metal plate wedged into a wooden block on a track. I know wood trim I have no idea about plaster but the principle is similar to a “woodworking scratch block” nobody responded so I hope this helps a little.
I haave no friends on United States, so i tried to google "Plaster of Paris powder" and find this one www.dap.com/products-projects/product-categories/patch-repair/plaster-stucco/ It looks as familiar to me gypsum powder. May be another manufacturers exist on America. The USA is a very large and highly developed country. Anyway, there should be a lot of different things. You may, also, visit the ETSY.com auction and find American peoples, who uses gypsum for crafts, sculpture or casting molds. Also you may find something alike "Dental gypsum" or "Dental plaster". The dental prosthetists, or dentists, use gypsum plaster of paris with similar characteristics. I find those guys: www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/products/industrial/dental-bases/usg-dental-plaster.html You may ask them about product. Hope I was able to help somehow.
И Вам доброго! Если речь про конкретно эти детали из ролика, то здесь форма не требуется - детали окончательно изготовлены. А если вопрос в целом по формовке, то вот видео по этому процессу ruclips.net/video/bFUWAlWcdec/видео.html И еще из недавних ruclips.net/video/AtMWVC355Is/видео.html ruclips.net/video/sW6moRpoB_o/видео.html Формы из чистого гипса наверное только у скульпторов сейчас остались. Когда модель из глины - гипсовая кусковая форма - самое логичное. Капы в керамике, тоже как разновидность гипсовой кусковой формы.
If you mean mould laing on the working table - it gypsum too. Maded with matching tamplate and giving the required thickness and 90 degree angle at the back of the cornice detail for precise installation. For anti-adhesive we often use a sunflower oil - it cheap and easy to get in our area. But best known anti-adhesive - it is a kerosene-stearic emulsion prepared in a water bath. However, making such an emulsion requires much more effort and time than going to the nearest shop ))
Oh. Sorry. Now i understand your question better. Let me try one more time. As we act in most cases: For 1-st. We make two templates (or patterns) with galvanized sheet metal 0.2 -0.5 mm (it material going almost to standart metal roof). Apper template - it call "knife" and lower template for cornice back side mould. Diference of their outlines (contours) - it cornice "body". Next we make "runners" or "skid" for apper knife and fit metal template on it. Next step - we mount lower template above knife with screws. Next step - we make a gypsum mould the same way, as on video, on naked table. And NOW - we give the mould 1-2 day or more for drying alittle. And after - liquid varnish, for soak the mould, strengthen the upper crust of gypsum mould. Fast drying nitrocellulose varnish is diluted with a solvent for better soak (impregnation). And this step may be repeated for better reinforsed. And for 2nd. We apply cheap and easy-to-get vegetable oil on varnish-soaked mould for non-stick or anti-adhesiv when we make the the cornice itself. Specifically in this video, we apply vegetable oil after grilled chicken. Friends work in a cafe where they fry chickens and bring us used oil, tens of liters, appetite-inducing smell :-) And it's not a joke. In this particular case, in the video, we got the lubricant for free. But usually we just use the cheapest vegetable oil from the nearest store.
@@aroundthedecor.942 wow thank you so much for all the information! I'm looking to take plaster work up as a hobby and this was super helpful! Thank you 😊
Проще на столе гипсом за счёт того, что земное притяжение работает НА нас, а не против, как в случае ч работой по месту. Однако надо смотреть на линии потолка и стен. Под гипсовые со стола молдинги идеально - четкий горизонт, иначе проявит все неровности в местах сопряжения с основой. Если потолок кривой и ровнять его не нужно/не хочется - по месту лучше, там тогда будет естественная кривизна. Но нужно очень неплохо поупражняться с провеской направляющих реек. Если этот вариант интересен - смотрите книги А. Шепелева. У него должно быть самое полное информирование, по идее. Нового с тех пор ничего не выдумали.
@@aroundthedecor.942 Огромное спасибо за столь подробный ответ! Собственно, вопрос как раз и возник по причине абсолютной ровности стола и возможной кривизны стены. А если вдруг стена едет, молдинги просто режут и латают стыки? Идеально ровных стен без гипсокартона, наверное, добиваться долго...
Не за что. В случае кривых стен гипсовые молдинги ставят по факту ровно, а стену ровняют по ним. Ну метр или сантиметров 70 вниз от примыкания. Так и с потолком можно. Только потом надо быть осторожным с освещением - направленный свет проявит все косяки.
Ох-хоз. Это почему Вы так решили? То, что человек, который тянет, не занимается конкретно протяжкой все 25 лет своей деятельности, это факт. Или ПРАВИЛЬНО тянуть за раз без облива?)))
You’re doing it backwards 🤡, you’re not showing me you ‘run’ every section like that are you ? Run it in reverse once , make a plaster mould and cast it properly, this is ridiculous
I roughly understood what you're talking about. Are you talking about this way? ruclips.net/video/lUD9h8eXwXQ/видео.html We work in Russia, the old city of St. Petersburg. Here the customer needs a very high quality finish, very high and a lot of directional light on design details in operation. The usual reverse casting method is much lower in final quality than pulling the face piece from above. Like in this video of mine. Making by casting involves less experience and qualifications of the worker than if you pull the cornice with the front part up. Casting is a reduction in cost, but not a finishing high quality. Especially on very complex profiles and templates. Especially where there are undercuts, reverse, hidden parts, such as "J" grooves. As you can see from the link I gave, there is a very simple part profile. A complex profile or template would thus be almost impossible to manufacture. And we usually have complex details in our work. * Posted with Google translate UPD ruclips.net/video/ktftGjweo5s/видео.html Here in St. Petersburg you won't pay a dime for such quality. And in Australia, this seems to be considered normal.
The quality of finish doesn’t suffer at all with traditional casting of fibrous work , while you’re method of running each length with your horse will produced an inconsistent quality finish. For undercuts as you described you’d make a “piece” mould and for enriched detail use a hot melt or silicone rubber insert. 👍
Over here,I would form a proper mould the first time with the inverted image or shape of the preferred cornice and then cast the cornice on top of the mould..it saves more than than having to form everyone of them like your doing
![Plaster Cast Moulded Cornice by John Powson - Ryedale Plasterers Limited [UK]](/img/1.gif)
I really enjoyed this video. The tunes make the visuals pop with mystery and allure.
This is nice!!am a specialist in pop too..form Nigeria lives in Nigeria..I hope to meet people in same field who are from different places so we can share ideas and improve our craft together
Enjoyed to see. It would be interesting to know how you make the profile tool and the half tube thing that you poured the plaster in.
Thanks! I havent special viseo with making especially this kind of template and backing support mold, but i have a similar, with same principe. Hope you enjoy and it will be helpful! It have auto subtitles, link ruclips.net/video/H4bgZEuiQTg/видео.html
What craftsmanship.
Beautiful! Thank you for your knowledge. God bless!
Where do I get the fibre. you used in the POP?
If you are talking about yellow, then this is a construction mesh for plastering 5x5 millimeters, strong, not too soft
How long does it take to dry out fully? Mines still damp to the touch after a day?
Love what you do.I have been asking for months to others "what the gypsum your using? I have purchased so many bags of stuff thinking it is what all y'all are using but NO. I have mold of a wall scones I want to make but nothing I have tried gives me the results like what you produce. Thanks
Thank you! We live in Russia and mostly use this one
samaragips.ru/en/catalog/gips-vysokoprochnyi/gvvs-16/
You can see specifications about grinding degree bellow on the page.
If you live in Europe, you may try get high-strenght gypsum fine grinding maded in France or Turkey. Friend of my friend was work on Italy 10 years ago, did gypsum stucco like on this vedeo. And waste lot of time with waiting for a delivery of good sturdy plaster from France, it seems. You may also use any kind of gypsum for pulling moldings like this video, with add simple fluff or hydraulic lime.
Great work…. I have a an old Victorian house with which has lots of old cornice , I would like to reproduce some the style is called Victorian swan neck there seems to be many variations.
Would this process be the best way to replicate it? Also what would be the best way to add support to it? Fibreglass or some sort of nylon mesh like you have??? Thanks
Fiberglass mesh and you want to take a piece of the current molding and create a profile on metal plate wedged into a wooden block on a track.
I know wood trim I have no idea about plaster but the principle is similar to a “woodworking scratch block”
nobody responded so I hope this helps a little.
So what suggestion if I live in United States? Need a gypsum like yours that dries quick and hardens. Thank you so much for your reply this far.
I haave no friends on United States, so i tried to google "Plaster of Paris powder" and find this one
www.dap.com/products-projects/product-categories/patch-repair/plaster-stucco/
It looks as familiar to me gypsum powder. May be another manufacturers exist on America. The USA is a very large and highly developed country. Anyway, there should be a lot of different things.
You may, also, visit the ETSY.com auction and find American peoples, who uses gypsum for crafts, sculpture or casting molds.
Also you may find something alike "Dental gypsum" or "Dental plaster". The dental prosthetists, or dentists, use gypsum plaster of paris with similar characteristics. I find those guys:
www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/products/industrial/dental-bases/usg-dental-plaster.html
You may ask them about product.
Hope I was able to help somehow.
Спасибо вам за мастер класс
San ang area nyo pwd mag order. Magkanu Ang Isang piraso
Доброе время суток! Как создать форму для отливки? Она у вас тоже из гипса? Заранее спасибо за ответ)
И Вам доброго! Если речь про конкретно эти детали из ролика, то здесь форма не требуется - детали окончательно изготовлены. А если вопрос в целом по формовке, то вот видео по этому процессу
ruclips.net/video/bFUWAlWcdec/видео.html
И еще из недавних
ruclips.net/video/AtMWVC355Is/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/sW6moRpoB_o/видео.html
Формы из чистого гипса наверное только у скульпторов сейчас остались. Когда модель из глины - гипсовая кусковая форма - самое логичное. Капы в керамике, тоже как разновидность гипсовой кусковой формы.
Is the mould you're using wood?
What type of anti-adhesive did you apply?
If you mean mould laing on the working table - it gypsum too. Maded with matching tamplate and giving the required thickness and 90 degree angle at the back of the cornice detail for precise installation.
For anti-adhesive we often use a sunflower oil - it cheap and easy to get in our area. But best known anti-adhesive - it is a kerosene-stearic emulsion prepared in a water bath. However, making such an emulsion requires much more effort and time than going to the nearest shop ))
@@aroundthedecor.942 what did you apply to keep the cornice from sticking?
Oh. Sorry. Now i understand your question better.
Let me try one more time. As we act in most cases:
For 1-st. We make two templates (or patterns) with galvanized sheet metal 0.2 -0.5 mm (it material going almost to standart metal roof). Apper template - it call "knife" and lower template for cornice back side mould. Diference of their outlines (contours) - it cornice "body".
Next we make "runners" or "skid" for apper knife and fit metal template on it. Next step - we mount lower template above knife with screws.
Next step - we make a gypsum mould the same way, as on video, on naked table. And NOW - we give the mould 1-2 day or more for drying alittle. And after - liquid varnish, for soak the mould, strengthen the upper crust of gypsum mould. Fast drying nitrocellulose varnish is diluted with a solvent for better soak (impregnation). And this step may be repeated for better reinforsed.
And for 2nd. We apply cheap and easy-to-get vegetable oil on varnish-soaked mould for non-stick or anti-adhesiv when we make the the cornice itself.
Specifically in this video, we apply vegetable oil after grilled chicken. Friends work in a cafe where they fry chickens and bring us used oil, tens of liters, appetite-inducing smell :-)
And it's not a joke. In this particular case, in the video, we got the lubricant for free.
But usually we just use the cheapest vegetable oil from the nearest store.
@@aroundthedecor.942 wow thank you so much for all the information! I'm looking to take plaster work up as a hobby and this was super helpful! Thank you 😊
if u dont know, now u know..
А какой способ проще: протяжка на стене или изготовление готовых элементов, которые нужно крепить? Спасибо
ruclips.net/video/Kgh0Qf69joc/видео.html
Проще на столе гипсом за счёт того, что земное притяжение работает НА нас, а не против, как в случае ч работой по месту.
Однако надо смотреть на линии потолка и стен. Под гипсовые со стола молдинги идеально - четкий горизонт, иначе проявит все неровности в местах сопряжения с основой.
Если потолок кривой и ровнять его не нужно/не хочется - по месту лучше, там тогда будет естественная кривизна. Но нужно очень неплохо поупражняться с провеской направляющих реек. Если этот вариант интересен - смотрите книги А. Шепелева. У него должно быть самое полное информирование, по идее. Нового с тех пор ничего не выдумали.
@@aroundthedecor.942 Огромное спасибо за столь подробный ответ! Собственно, вопрос как раз и возник по причине абсолютной ровности стола и возможной кривизны стены. А если вдруг стена едет, молдинги просто режут и латают стыки? Идеально ровных стен без гипсокартона, наверное, добиваться долго...
Не за что. В случае кривых стен гипсовые молдинги ставят по факту ровно, а стену ровняют по ним. Ну метр или сантиметров 70 вниз от примыкания. Так и с потолком можно. Только потом надо быть осторожным с освещением - направленный свет проявит все косяки.
Видно что человек не умеет делать протяжки
Ох-хоз. Это почему Вы так решили?
То, что человек, который тянет, не занимается конкретно протяжкой все 25 лет своей деятельности, это факт. Или ПРАВИЛЬНО тянуть за раз без облива?)))
@@aroundthedecor.942 согласен с Вами.
Тянуть человек умеет, просто на потоке видимо не работал.
Шпатель в руках смотрится странно🙂
You’re doing it backwards 🤡, you’re not showing me you ‘run’ every section like that are you ? Run it in reverse once , make a plaster mould and cast it properly, this is ridiculous
I roughly understood what you're talking about. Are you talking about this way?
ruclips.net/video/lUD9h8eXwXQ/видео.html
We work in Russia, the old city of St. Petersburg. Here the customer needs a very high quality finish, very high and a lot of directional light on design details in operation. The usual reverse casting method is much lower in final quality than pulling the face piece from above. Like in this video of mine. Making by casting involves less experience and qualifications of the worker than if you pull the cornice with the front part up. Casting is a reduction in cost, but not a finishing high quality. Especially on very complex profiles and templates. Especially where there are undercuts, reverse, hidden parts, such as "J" grooves.
As you can see from the link I gave, there is a very simple part profile. A complex profile or template would thus be almost impossible to manufacture. And we usually have complex details in our work.
* Posted with Google translate
UPD ruclips.net/video/ktftGjweo5s/видео.html
Here in St. Petersburg you won't pay a dime for such quality. And in Australia, this seems to be considered normal.
The quality of finish doesn’t suffer at all with traditional casting of fibrous work , while you’re method of running each length with your horse will produced an inconsistent quality finish. For undercuts as you described you’d make a “piece” mould and for enriched detail use a hot melt or silicone rubber insert. 👍
Over here,I would form a proper mould the first time with the inverted image or shape of the preferred cornice and then cast the cornice on top of the mould..it saves more than than having to form everyone of them like your doing