salve ...complimenti per il magnifico lavoro...Le chiedo dove ha acquistato le parti per il cassone in lamiera e le parti della carrozzeria della macchina?
That is just for access, so you can reach inside the inner fender wells when bolting everything together. Didn't really get the angle on video but I'm reaching through that hole to bolt them to the front bed wall and the forward half of the side walls
I moved the roof rack base forward, installed a couple more rivenuts, then cut the rails off even with the back of the cab. I used 2.5 tubes of panel bond
@@hestermannmotorwerks - do you think it is feasible to do the same thing (move front base forward) but use the back base with just a short stub of pipe in between?
@@jeffweller4578 yes for sure. That’s exactly what I did on this one. Used the existing front rivnut as the back one for the front mount and added one for the front. That moved it about 3 inches forward. Added a mount in the middle using a rivenut and a piece of pipe shaped to fit on both ends then two new rivenuts for the back mount. Was playing with spare tire on the roof so I wanted 3 mounts on each side. Turned out it looked goofy with the big wheel on the smallish cab roof so I ditched the idea
@@hestermannmotorwerks - thank you for taking the time to answer this - I was thinking of the spare up there - so you've saved me that effort - now if I can find a donor vehicle...
The kit is aluminum and the car is steel so you can't weld them together. I use 3M panel pond in most all of the joints and that is amazing stuff. It might surprise you how much modern cars are glued/epoxied together. The rivets and 8 mm bolts come with the kit. But I often add a few more or swap in some stainless steel rivets for the aluminum ones just for a little more piece of mind. Never had any issues though.
thats not a simple question really but probably 30-40 hours building it then another 40-50 hours finishing it both interior and exterior. But I added a few customizations
I just saw this truck parked in my home town today and saw the RUclips sticker on the back so I checked out the build video. Nice work🤙🏾
Awesome! and thank you!
It turned out so great! Nice work. And thanks for asking me to help with the tunes, It was a blast to make!
Thank you! Dig having some of your skills added to the video!
Oh man i love utes, I didnt know you can make them. I personally htink the utility of hat vehicle went up exponentially.
I like these videos at fast speed, very neat to watch.
Thanks Mike
@@hesty32 you’re welcome.
You're good Sir. Very good. We can tell you love what you do. What will he do next? Nice work.
Thank you sir! Next is a 2004 Audi S4!
salve ...complimenti per il magnifico lavoro...Le chiedo dove ha acquistato le parti per il cassone in lamiera e le parti della carrozzeria della macchina?
Great work! Looks amazing..
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice!
Q: what's the reason for those "speaker holes" in front of the rear wheels in the first inner panels you put into place?
Added lightness?
That is just for access, so you can reach inside the inner fender wells when bolting everything together. Didn't really get the angle on video but I'm reaching through that hole to bolt them to the front bed wall and the forward half of the side walls
Did you custom make the panels for the bed?
I slightly modified the panels that come with the kit to make the hinged floor panel
Is this a universal kit or made for that vehicle specifically?????
If you have to ask, better stick to the dealership😅
Did you just cut the roof rack off flush and cap the end? How many tubes of panel bond does it use? Thank you.
I moved the roof rack base forward, installed a couple more rivenuts, then cut the rails off even with the back of the cab. I used 2.5 tubes of panel bond
@@hestermannmotorwerks - do you think it is feasible to do the same thing (move front base forward) but use the back base with just a short stub of pipe in between?
@@jeffweller4578 yes for sure. That’s exactly what I did on this one. Used the existing front rivnut as the back one for the front mount and added one for the front. That moved it about 3 inches forward. Added a mount in the middle using a rivenut and a piece of pipe shaped to fit on both ends then two new rivenuts for the back mount. Was playing with spare tire on the roof so I wanted 3 mounts on each side. Turned out it looked goofy with the big wheel on the smallish cab roof so I ditched the idea
@@hestermannmotorwerks - thank you for taking the time to answer this - I was thinking of the spare up there - so you've saved me that effort - now if I can find a donor vehicle...
Excellent
Thanks!
@@hesty32 help me to my jeep grand Cherokee wj convert to truck
The beetle ute was better but this one's great m8 you're a legend. And a question because you don't use welding instead of rivets
The kit is aluminum and the car is steel so you can't weld them together. I use 3M panel pond in most all of the joints and that is amazing stuff. It might surprise you how much modern cars are glued/epoxied together. The rivets and 8 mm bolts come with the kit. But I often add a few more or swap in some stainless steel rivets for the aluminum ones just for a little more piece of mind. Never had any issues though.
@@hesty32 I love your ute conversions man all this super beautiful
@@hesty32 I figured it was because it's 2 different types of metal
Do they make a Kit for 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee?
Nope sorry 99-2005 only.
What's a ballpark price to get this conversion done?
Lots of variables but $6000
Is the base build price
How many hours would you estimate you had in this?
thats not a simple question really but probably 30-40 hours building it then another 40-50 hours finishing it both interior and exterior. But I added a few customizations