An index for this video: 0:00 - 0:58 Unboxing the clock. 0:58 - 2:10 Checking the case for damage and missing parts. 2:10 - 4:24 Removing the hands and chains. 4:24 - 5:05 Examining the markings on the back door. 5:05 - 6:31 Finding one bellow (whistle) is missing; finding a replacement; reading the movement identification. 6:31 - 8:03 Removing the remaining bellow. 8:03 - 9:05 Unhooking the bird; examining the screws that fasten the movement to the case. 9:05 - 10:34 Removing the movement; checking the case for insects. 10:34 - 12:20 Examining the condition of the movement; finding tarnish and lint inside. 12:20 - 17:25 Removing the exterior parts. 17:25 - 21:45 Checking for worn pivot holes; removing fuzz with tweezers. 21:45 - 24:27 Checking the Locked position of the strike wheels; Separating the plates. 24:27 - 27:17 Showing the working of the time and strike trains. 27:17 - 29:09 Showing how the minute post cams line up with the minute hand. 29:09 - 30:31 Preparing to remove the gathering pallet. 30:31 - 31:41 The weather report - arctic! 31:41 - 32:30 Removing the gathering pallet. 32:30 - 37:13 A special visitor. 37:13 - 41:48 The ultrasonic cleaner; rinsing with hot water; wiping the parts dry. 41:48 - 45:52 Polishing the pivots and arbors on the lathe. 45:52 - 51:17 Removing tarnish from the brass parts; cleaning the pinions. 51:17 - 52:18 Checking the time train for worn pivot holes. 52:18 - 54:17 Broaching the new bushings. 54:17 - 55:02 Testing the new anchor bushings. 55:02 - 57:38 Bushing the 2nd wheel: Filing the worn holes to even the wear; what file is used. 57:38 - 59:13 Reaming the hole for the new bushing; chamfering the hole. 59:13 - 1:00:21 Hammering the new bushing in. 1:00:21 - 1:04:03 Broaching (expanding) the hole to fit the pivot. 1:04:03 - 1:05:49 Smoothing the hole, using a smoothing broach and oil. 1:05:49 - 1:07:10 Checking the new bushings. 1:07:10 - 1:07:56 How to test whether a pivot hole needs a new bushing. 1:07:56 - 1:09:54 More bushing: Reaming, chamfering, hammering. 1:09:54 - 1:10:44 The repaired time train running on a test stand. 1:10:44 - 1:16:41 Bushing the strike side main wheel: Reaming, chamfering, hammering, broaching, testing. 1:16:41 - 1:21:44 More bushing, in brief. 1:21:44 - 1:23:21 Testing the new bushings on the first two wheels of the strike train. 1:23:21 - 1:28:39 Cleaning the plastic clock face and numerals. 1:28:39 - 1:32:32 Brushing out the inside of the case, then brushing it with diluted boiled linseed oil. 1:32:32 - 1:33:23 Removing latex wall paint from the back of the case. 1:33:23 - 1:36:29 Brushing the rest of the case with diluted boiled linseed oil. 1:36:29 - 1:39:26 Wiping off the excess linseed oil; setting the case aside to dry. 1:39:26 - 1:40:17 Pegging (cleaning) the movement's pivot holes. 1:40:17 - 1:44:15 Assembling: placing all the parts that go between the plates. 1:44:15 - 1:48:04 Closing the plates: sliding all the pivots into their holes. 1:48:04 - 1:50:27 Attaching the gathering pallet in the correct position. 1:50:27 - 1:54:32 Oiling the pivots, anchor pallets, escape wheel teeth, and minute post. 1:54:32 - 2:07:18 Attaching the parts that go outside the plates. 2:07:18 - 2:10:31 Re-bending the rack and drop lever; testing the rack and snail function. 2:10:31 - 2:12:43 Testing the corrected rack and levers. 2:12:43 - 2:15:36 Attaching the bellows levers and the hammer. 2:15:36 - 2:17:45 Attaching the bird and chains; 2:17:45 - 2:22:28 Putting the movement into the case. 2:22:28 - 2:23:07 Testing the new bellows. 2:23:07 - 2:23:38 The clock cuckoo'ing on a test stand. 2:23:38 - 2:23:50 The finished clock running on the wall.
Enjoyed the video. Looks like my clock. I am 61 and bought my cuckoo when I was around 12 or so. It's in need of some fixing but still runs. We too had the cold weather last week. -35 here in MN.
Great videos Don I've been following you for the last 2 years I am learning myself how to repair clocks you make it look easy to follow you so that I can learn how to do it and I appreciate that
Glad to help. Also, if you want to learn more, consider joining the NAWCC, (National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors) and use their forum for valuable information. nawcc.org/
Thank much for your videos Hoss. Someone gave me an older cuckoo clock on most like you are working on and was going to throw it away I'm in the process of watching your videos and thank with much luck I can fix it so thank you because before this I knew nothing about cuckoo clocks LOL.
Yes, I think so. She's also learning about clock movements and actually helped me oil one. She is also the designated cuckoo clock winder for the cuckoo clock upstairs.
Great video as always. I like the way you explain things. I have a question though. How similar/ different is Hubert Herr movement to Regula 25 in terms of strike side assembly. On a Regula 25 one has to pay attention to the gathering pallet position in relations to the black S shaped plastic tab on the same wheel and also the tab that keeps the bird perch closed. The the star wheel can easily be adjusted later since it is outside. How does the strike side work on a hubert herr? Thanks .
I'm a new subscriber and just wanted to say Hi! I started watching and now two days have passed! I admire how you work and with what you work with... There doesn't appear to be any $2,500 bushing or other terribly expensive machines to be seen... That's encouraging for someone who might want to start tinkering with an old clock or two.
I've been repairing clocks for more than 50 years and have worked with minimal tooling for most of those years. I finally bought a spring winder. I'm just too old to work with the springs the old-fashioned way. I encourage you to stick with your interest in clocks and to check out the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC). They have a nice website and a message board where you can learn a lot. Also, some nice RUclips videos for the beginner. mb.nawcc.org/ ruclips.net/video/lDZHlcjQnOo/видео.html
@@dperry428 I will do that, thank you! I'm a retired computer programmer by trade, but love technology of all types. We have three windup clocks here in our apartment. A grandfather, an Atmos, and a recent small 400 Day Cock that I bought just to watch it work... All of them work well. However, I just sent the bellow off to be recharged for the Atmos. This effort kind of piqued my interest in clocks again. A look at eBay is kind of sad... In that, there are so many old mechanical clocks out there that need some love. I ordered three older used books from eBay on the clock repair subject and have 67 years of tools but none specifically for clock repair. Watching you gives me an idea of what might be the minimum required... Ironically, I just watch the first video where your new Main Spring tool showed up... It's a beauty! Again Thank you!
It's not been a lot of fun. Last week, we had freezing rain, followed by significant snow. My driveway slopes dramatically and, as I went up the slope with the snowblower, I uncovered the ice and both my feet went out from under me. My son had to help me get up. Bruised my hand pretty badly. The weather has been absolute proof that my concrete formulas will stand up to nearly anything. It's been the extreme in freeze/thaw cycles. I'm trying to stay in the workshop as much as possible while praying for an early spring.
@dperry428 Hello Sir! i stumbled across your video last night and was amazed at how you took that down to nothing and got it back together again, cut no corners thats for sure its nice to see someone that takes pride in their work. My favorite part though is when your magic came in and stole the show she is a gem,bless her heart. i wanted to ask a couple questions 1. do you repair clocks for anyone needing your expertise? 2. my mom gave me one that she said she got from a yard sale back when she was around 9, she is in her 70s now. This clock has a very similar if not exact same bones as the one in this video but has a bunch of other pieces attached to the outside a rabbit and a pheasant are on left and right sides and appear to be hanging like they were strung up. top center is a large Buck, bottom center is a satchel and a rifle strung across it with a leather strap.and tree leafs around the perimeter all appear hand carved pieces. on the inside on the back of the movenment---is that right? gear box looks like its brass and has made in germany stamped on it. just below that and centered is a pyramid with a circle {maybe the earth} inside the triangle and across the bottom are ???MIUS and thats all i see for a maker. im not certain about the U and there are other letters before the M aprox 2-3. would you happen to know who makes this? i searched the web for german coukoo clock makers and tried to match the letters i have with a name but had no luck, could not even see anything with the triangle. anyway thanks for the video and let me know if you will about the two questions.
I repair clocks as a winter hobby. I have to get to know something about a person online before I accept a clock for repair. Too many trolls, scam artists and generally dishonest cretins crawling around the internet. You can post an email in a comment as I hold comments for approval. I can then contact you via email and delete the comment before it even gets posted. The clock you describe is a typical hunter style cuckoo clock. They're a nice style and have been around for a very long time. Your descriptions of the markings on the back do not raise any ideas from my limited knowledge. Keep in mind that there were limited numbers of manufacturers who made the movements and then sold them to the clockmakers, who were furniture makers and wood carvers, so many of these movements were made by a company that stamped the clockmakers name onto the plate. I've repaired two very old cuckoo clocks that were stamped, "Sears, Roebuck and Co". Sears had the clocks made in Germany and imported them with their name on them from about 1890 to the early 1900's. If we communicate via email, you can send pictures and that would make identification much easier than a description.
This is what I use: timesavers.com/i-22336012-zenith-watch-clock-cleaning-concentrate-251na.html You can make your own using Dawn dishwashing soap, Murphy's Oil Soap and a bit of household ammonia if you want to remove tarnish from the brass.
I love these videos. Do you take in clocks from anywhere? I have several which need fixing and would love to not only get them up and running again, but to see it on this channel ☺️
Sometimes I do, but I have enough to do when I'm again able to. I pretty much only do clock work during winter when I can't be outside. I have a few to catch up on and can't even do those until my new hip heals. I also have a few of my own in my collection that need work and I need to get them done to give away to my children and grandchildren. I don't have a business, just a part-time hobby. If Providence gives me more time, keep watch and perhaps there will come a time when I can accommodate you. In the meantime, why not try the repairs yourself?
@@dperry428 That's totally understandable, was just curious since I recently stumbled across this channel and have been wanting to bring back those clocks. I'm actually blind, which is why I'd never even think about trying to work with these. Would probably ruin the parts before they were even out of the case😂.
I’m just starting out on repairing cuckoo clocks. One problem that I keep finding is clocks that keep cuckooing until the weight runs down. Typically on 1 day clocks by Hubert Herr or Harzer Uhrenfabrik. They seem to have almost the same movement.
I don't know. I get them from timesavers.com and that color is their finest grit. It finishes to a mirror finish. It's listed as 6/0 grit and is the finest grit they offer.
Coincidently I just wrote an Instructable on how to make your own sanding sticks for polishing pivots. I use 1500 grit followed by 2500 grit, as described in a clock maker's paper that compared sanding to filing pivots. The Instructable is at www.instructables.com/id/Sanding-Sticks-for-Polishing-Clock-Pivots/. The paper that describes the sanding technique and grit numbers is at www.abouttime-clockmaking.com/downloads/Whiteman%20Pivot%20Analysis%202.pdf dperry428, keep up these instructive videos! I learn so much with each one!
I’m watching this video on the bushings etc. Got a number 36 broach that says largest it will cut is 2.70mm. Are these broaches tapered? Have not received it from timesavers yet due to lockdown but studying your videos in meantime. Thanks and stay safe
There is, indeed, a taper to both cutting broaches and smoothing broaches. That's why there is a range of sizes each will cut. It is also why you broach from both sides of the plate, You start broaching on the insides until the pivot just starts to go in. That is the point at which the hole is big enough on the inside but is still too small on the outside. If you continue to broach until the pivot goes all the way in, the hole will be the right size on the outside of the plate, but too big on the inside. You now have a hole that has little bearing surface and will wear out quickly because half the hole is too big. If you stop broaching from the inside until the pivot starts to go in and then switch to broaching from the outside, the hole will be just right all the way through.
dperry428 bushings I bought are number 9 outside diameter 2.5mm. Was going to use 2.7 for that. I was taking your previous advice and adding tools slowly as needed. Now I see I need the smaller broach for inside diameter. I’ll practice on old plate anyway. Thanks
I'm waiting for the sting of buying the wrong pliers to pass :-( I bought some McMaster-Carr ring pliers that looked like the right thing, but turned out to be way too weak (pressed metal handles rather than cast handles). My plan is - once I feel rich enough - to buy "Knipex 46 21 A01 SB Circlip Pliers for external circlips 3-10mm 90° angled" from Amazon, based on a thread at the NAWCC site: mb.nawcc.org/threads/e-clip-or-locking-clip-removal-on-back-plate-regula-movements.155880/ I'm hoping those are the right pliers to painlessly install and remove those nasty Regula e-clips.
@@BradfordNeedham The worst parts for me are my increasingly poor vision and the slight magnetism of the pliers. Get those tiny 1/16th inch e-clips in place, bring the pliers close and watch the clips get pulled right out of place. Really not a big deal, but just slight aggravation. I like the small needle-nose plier. I think I'll grind the tips and silver solder brass in place of the steel.
One of the things I do now is I unscrew the bird from the perch, instead of bending the wire off the door. It’s less chance to snap an old wire and all you need to do is slide the bird off after you loosen the screw.
I've done it both ways, as well as both. Many times, especially on older clocks, the wooden bird needs repainted or, on any clock the door wire needs replaced anyway because of rust.
Is it advisable to oil the clock every 3yrs? Or NOT to oil at all? Some say it doesn't matter if you oil or not ....the movement will last 30-35yrs whether you oil it or not is this true?thanks and great video :)
It depends on a number of variables. As a general rule, it is advisable to oil the clock every 3 to 5 years. However, to properly oil a clock, removing it from the case to get to the pivot holes in the front plate is necessary. If you can do it yourself then, by all means, oil it. If you cannot do it yourself, your choice, then, is to take it to a professional, an expensive proposition. Now, you have to decide whether the cost of professional maintenance is worth it to you. If the clock is a cheap, modern clock, you may find the cost of maintenance exceeds the cost of simply buying a new one. If the clock is a valuable family heirloom or an expensive modern one, you may find it a wise choice to have it professionally maintained. Also, if the clock is valuable either as an heirloom or an expensive one that you intend to pass along to your heirs, you may find it cheaper to pay a professional to maintain it rather than pay the much higher cost of replacing bushings and pivots caused by the wear of neglect. Other variables as to how often a clock should be oiled include the environment in which it is kept. If it hangs in a kitchen, for example, exposed to oil and grease of cooking and the heat from the stove and oven, the clock will not just require oiling, but cleaning more frequently. The quality of oil used in lubricating the clock is another variable. 3-in-1 oil is NOT clock oil, nor is WD40. Use those and a clock will not only need oiling more frequently, but a complete overhaul. As for the 30 to 35 year lifespan of a movement, that may be true, but it will likely not run that long without maintenance of some sort and also may lose it functionality, such as chimes that don't work or a clock that doesn't keep accurate time. A clock is a machine, a mechanical device. it requires maintenance to continue to function as designed, much as your car. When you buy a car, do you choose not to change the oil and just drive it until it fails, then buy a new one? I've known people who do exactly that.
It appears you installed the washer on the intermediate wheel upside down. Does it make a difference if the concave side is up? Love your videos I learn a lot from them. Also I started to watch one of your current videos where you had an extremely dirty old movement. Somehow I did not see the finished video. Can you direct me to that video? Thanks Bob
Good observation. You caught my "cheat". By putting it on with the concave side up, the hour pipe can be pulled forward enough to allow the gear at its base to slip off the top edge of the pinion on the intermediate wheel and be rotated a tooth or two to adjust the positioning of the rack tail on the snail if there is a problem. After all the final adjustments are made and everything is working perfectly, the washer can be reversed with the concavity downward. With it in that position, the hour pipe gear cannot be moved past the end of the intermediate wheel pinion. Once the hands are attached to the movement, the hour tube cannot be moved forward and it's not a problem, even if I should, in my old age, forget to flip that washer over.
If you mean the video about the "real challenge" movement, the video is not yet available as I'm just now working on the movement. It's going to take a lot of time. It needs 16 bushings, 19 trundle wires replaced, at least 2 arbor pivots replaced. both chain wheels rebuilt, a brass lever rebuilt and, most critically, the pallets on the anchor ground, polished and refitted or a new strip pallet constructed.
Great video. I have recently received a Herr 1 day clock but cannot figure out how to engage the night shut- off. It's got three side door. Can you help?
My 1940's Herr does not have one... Mine has 3 chains and just removing the weights that do not run the clock will turn mine off. Possibly the cuckoo can be shut off with the door hook.
Honestly, I don't see any real differences, at least as far as functionality. Regula may be just a bit easier to work on. Opinions are all over the place, however. It's kind of like asking, "Which is better -- Ford or Chevy?" There are a lot more Regula movements around as they make movements for everybody and his brother. When it comes to either one, though, the older ones are better than the newer ones. I think they look to making things cheaper to manufacture and, thus, make working on them tougher. For example, on older Regulas, the star wheel on the outside back was put on with a set screw; newer ones are a press fit. They save on drilling and tapping a hole, plus the cost of a screw. Two operations less and one screw less. The press fit ones of today, however, give repairers nightmares trying to get them off.
dperry428 good morning. Hope your doing well. I’ve decided to buy some broaches and reaming bits. I’ll be attempting the movements in your videos and buying from timesavers. Could you recommend a few essential tools to start me of. If I can just buy reaming bits and use drill I will. And most common diameter bits you use if that’s possible to answer. Appreciate all the advice. Morgan
If you mean for bushing worn holes, buy what you need to bush the holes you'll be working with and add to your collection of tools as time goes by. Buy what you can afford. Reamers are not cheap. To bush a hole, you need to measure the pivot that goes in that hole. You'll need a bushing with an internal hole (bore) of that size or smaller. That bushing will have an outside diameter. You'll need a reamer to cut the hole for that outside diameter. They are about 3/100th of a millimeter smaller than the outside diameter of the bushing so the bushing fits really tight. Then, you'll need a cutting broach to enlarge the bore to fit the pivot. Broaches are tapered. You'll need a size that fits into the bore of the bushing and tapers enough to cut to the size of the pivot. For most clocks, it is the second wheel that will be most in need of bushing. As you need more sizes, add to your collection
dperry428 thank you. The videos are really helpful I’ve got a decent bit of information on the bushing side. I’ll buy slowly and see how I get on. Thanks
Your videos are fantastic! with your education I successfully replaced the time ratchet wheel on a Regula 25. I have an Antique PHS kukuk with movement in cast brass that needs bushings & cleaning. Can you PM me?
Google did away with private messages in RUclips. You can give me your email address in a comment here. I hold all comments for review, so I can copy the email and then delete the comment without posting it.
I have the same Hubert herr, how hard should it be to turn the square shaft like your doing at 2:11:40 I see your doing it with your fingers on my I need to use pliers. Is this a problem if so how would I fix it? Thanks.
Without the final nut on the innermost threaded rod, it should be very easy to turn. Many people do not understand how the motion works on the Hubert Herr is meant to function and end up modifying something to make it work the way they THINK it should work. In all clocks there is a need to have a clutch mechanism to allow for the manual movement of the hands to set the time when needed while, at the same time, providing enough friction to allow the hands to be moved by the mechanism to actually keep time. The real clutch is on the center shaft between the plates and the motion works that moves the hour and minute hands is disconnected from the that clutch mechanism when the end nut is not screwed on and tightened against the minute hand tube (the one with the square, threaded end). In my video, the end nut is not on, so I'm only moving the motion works and not the clutch mechanism on the threaded rod. So, when I turn the square end, which would hold the minute hand, I'm only turning that tube,which also has the cams that activate the strike, the intermediate wheel, and the round tube that would hold the hour hand. Without the end nut, the motion works is disconnected from the rest of the mechanism and without it, the movement would run, but the hands would not move. When the end nut is put on the threaded rod (center shaft) it is tightened until it jams against the square tube. That tight nut is what connects the power from the movement to the motion works. When someone doesn't understand how that works, they may think that the minute tube itself should have a friction fit against the threaded center shaft and squeeze the tube against the center shaft. That would make the square difficult to turn. It is likely that is the problem. The remedy would be to restore the round tube or replace it with one from a "parts only" movement.
Since Hubert Herr is no longer in business, I know of nowhere you can buy parts. The only options would be to make one yourself or get a "parts only" movement from somewhere like eBay. Making one wouldn't be too difficult if you have a small lathe.
Very interesting clock repair. Are you formally trained, or are you self taught? I just bought a couple of old cuckoo clocks off of ebay, and this is just the type of content I need to get started.
No formal training; it's just a hobby I've been doing since 1968. Nice to see another one getting started with clock repair. You might be interested in the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) nawcc.org/ Also, if you haven't seen my other videos, here's a playlist ruclips.net/p/PLzgOxsVcbO_CyAebJDGYfO0Oe_cBTl6ak
I buy commercial bushing from Butterworth Clocks and Timesavers for most work except the bigger or specialty ones, which I make on my lathe. I don't keep a lot in stock, so many times I also make them for clocks with thicker plates.
dperry428 ok last question for a while, 😂 Do you use a bushing jig or drill freehand and tap bushing in? I’m really into these clocks now, I’m a cabinet maker so I’m carving the face frames to complete the cases, the metal work is defo not my specialty!!
I use everything but a bushing machine. I've demonstrated using a drill press, a hand-held drill and completely by hand in my videos. I just tap them in with a small hammer, sometimes with a flat-end punch. I just make sure they're flush with the inside of the plate.
Thank you! Iam having a clock can you tell me which weight( in grams)will be suitable? Can you send ur mail id or whatsapp no. So that I'll share the pic of it.
Both weights are 320 grams. I don't publish my email and I don't know what "whatsapp" is. You can try leaving your email in a comment, though you have to try stating "at" and "dot" in words or RUclips will censor it and delete the comment as spam.
The only time gloves are needed is for carriage clocks, 400-day clocks or other movements that are exposed for view. Your assertion that "rust will appear" is nonsense. The most that will happen is fingerprints will be become visible on the brass as it tarnishes slightly. I've been repairing clocks for 52 years. Handling movements without gloves has never created a problem.
@@dperry428 I have been repairing clocks for decades also and have never had one single issue not wearing gloves. Rust certainly does not come from fingerprints.
I want to do that, I actually don’t need to buy a new chain. It was just that one of the links broke, but I can’t figure out how to thread that chain back in, do I have to take apart the entire thing?
Wrap a piece of wire around the chain that is still in so that it doesn't fall off the chain wheel. Remove the hook and circle from the ends of the chain you want to install. With the back off, reach under the chain wheel and see which way it winds. Turn the clock upside down, thread the chain through the hole in the bottom and onto the side of the chain wheel. Using your finger or a screw driver, rotate the chain wheel to load the chain. As it feeds onto the wheel cogs, rotate the clock so the chain stays on the cogs while you keep rotating the chain wheel cogs. Keep rotating wheel and whole clock until the chain is drawn to the exit hole in the case. Pull the chain through the hole and put the hook and loop on the ends.
@@dperry428thank you! The chain however has already completely fallen out so I can’t do that with threading a wire, etc. do I have to remove the clockworks?
You don't thread a wire. Just turn the clock upside down, thread the chain into the hole that leads to the side of the chain wheel that will rotate the chain over the wheel as if it is being wound. Then, using a finger or screwdriver, rotate the cogs to carry the chain over the top of the wheel while also rotating the whole clock so the chain doesn't either fall off or get carried into the movement. Keep rotating the cogs until the chain is over the wheel, the clock is upright and the chain moves down to the exit hole. Then, grasp the chain and pull it out the bottom.
Don really enjoy your videos.Have a question about a 1 day Anton Schneider cuckoo clock.Periodically the cuckoos cuckoo doesn't match the time.It' doesn't do it every hour.I've tried moving the minute hand rapidly past 12 and really messing it up.Then I reset the time to match the cuckoo but it doesn't last.Don.t understand why it doesn't do it every hour.Thanks.
You need to understand how the number of cuckoos is controlled. If it is very old, it might contain a count wheel on the back. If it is not old, it will have a rack and snail control on the front of the movement. That is most likely the case. Irregular counts of the hour can be caused by a number of factors, but check to see if the rack, the arched, toothed lever, moves freely and drops properly at the hour. The tail of the rack should fall onto the center of a step on the snail. That is what controls the number of teeth on the rack that need be lifted before shutting off the cuckoo. Also, check to make sure the pin on the gathering pallet is not catching periodically on one of the teeth of the rack. Watch this for an explanation of how the rack and snail works and what to look for.ruclips.net/video/v4yreDqcf3E/видео.html
@@dperry428 Thank you for the help.I want to take the movement out of the clock.I'm having trouble removing the hour hand.It's so tight on the shaft it won't budge.Any ideas.I don't want to break it,thanks.
The hour hand is a simple friction fit. First, check carefully that some fool didn't glue it on. You'd be amazed at what some people do. If they did, try to determine type of glue and try to loosen it with the appropriate solvent. Otherwise, try a bit of penetrating oil (just a dab), let it set a few minutes, grasp the base of the hand and try to turn it. Otherwise, brute force with the risk of breaking it. Then, if it breaks, order a new set. frankenmuthclock.com/collections/parts-cuckoo-clock-quartz-cuckoo-miniature/hands-cuckoo
@@dperry428 Well Don I got the hour hand off with penetrating oil.Took pictures and made a drawing showing the bellow attachment to control arms and rabbit and deere.Lucked out and bellows weren't glued.No brad either(not good).Movement nexed.Keep fingers crossed.
@@dperry428 Good news is I got the movement out.Bad news is that while I was checking out the movement a tension washer fell out.I'm trying to find it on another Regula 25 that I have to find where it goes .Next step is to check out your viideo because I remember seeing it mentioned.Maybe that's my problem but I didn't lose the washer,thanks Don.
would you be interested in repairing a 1970 Regula 25 E. Shmeckenbecher small cuckoo clock? I will be glad to give you a donation for your time. You can let me know. (This one is a bit beyond my expertise)
It will likely have to wait until late next fall, if I'm still here. I have a couple to finish up and then It's time to go back to the yard projects. If you haven't found someone to do it, give a shout in October.
If you will leave an email address, I'll contact you and delete the comment with your email address. I don't publish my email address. There are too many jerks out there that would be sending me all kinds of trash.
Хобби
An index for this video:
0:00 - 0:58 Unboxing the clock.
0:58 - 2:10 Checking the case for damage and missing parts.
2:10 - 4:24 Removing the hands and chains.
4:24 - 5:05 Examining the markings on the back door.
5:05 - 6:31 Finding one bellow (whistle) is missing; finding a replacement; reading the movement identification.
6:31 - 8:03 Removing the remaining bellow.
8:03 - 9:05 Unhooking the bird; examining the screws that fasten the movement to the case.
9:05 - 10:34 Removing the movement; checking the case for insects.
10:34 - 12:20 Examining the condition of the movement; finding tarnish and lint inside.
12:20 - 17:25 Removing the exterior parts.
17:25 - 21:45 Checking for worn pivot holes; removing fuzz with tweezers.
21:45 - 24:27 Checking the Locked position of the strike wheels; Separating the plates.
24:27 - 27:17 Showing the working of the time and strike trains.
27:17 - 29:09 Showing how the minute post cams line up with the minute hand.
29:09 - 30:31 Preparing to remove the gathering pallet.
30:31 - 31:41 The weather report - arctic!
31:41 - 32:30 Removing the gathering pallet.
32:30 - 37:13 A special visitor.
37:13 - 41:48 The ultrasonic cleaner; rinsing with hot water; wiping the parts dry.
41:48 - 45:52 Polishing the pivots and arbors on the lathe.
45:52 - 51:17 Removing tarnish from the brass parts; cleaning the pinions.
51:17 - 52:18 Checking the time train for worn pivot holes.
52:18 - 54:17 Broaching the new bushings.
54:17 - 55:02 Testing the new anchor bushings.
55:02 - 57:38 Bushing the 2nd wheel: Filing the worn holes to even the wear; what file is used.
57:38 - 59:13 Reaming the hole for the new bushing; chamfering the hole.
59:13 - 1:00:21 Hammering the new bushing in.
1:00:21 - 1:04:03 Broaching (expanding) the hole to fit the pivot.
1:04:03 - 1:05:49 Smoothing the hole, using a smoothing broach and oil.
1:05:49 - 1:07:10 Checking the new bushings.
1:07:10 - 1:07:56 How to test whether a pivot hole needs a new bushing.
1:07:56 - 1:09:54 More bushing: Reaming, chamfering, hammering.
1:09:54 - 1:10:44 The repaired time train running on a test stand.
1:10:44 - 1:16:41 Bushing the strike side main wheel: Reaming, chamfering, hammering, broaching, testing.
1:16:41 - 1:21:44 More bushing, in brief.
1:21:44 - 1:23:21 Testing the new bushings on the first two wheels of the strike train.
1:23:21 - 1:28:39 Cleaning the plastic clock face and numerals.
1:28:39 - 1:32:32 Brushing out the inside of the case, then brushing it with diluted boiled linseed oil.
1:32:32 - 1:33:23 Removing latex wall paint from the back of the case.
1:33:23 - 1:36:29 Brushing the rest of the case with diluted boiled linseed oil.
1:36:29 - 1:39:26 Wiping off the excess linseed oil; setting the case aside to dry.
1:39:26 - 1:40:17 Pegging (cleaning) the movement's pivot holes.
1:40:17 - 1:44:15 Assembling: placing all the parts that go between the plates.
1:44:15 - 1:48:04 Closing the plates: sliding all the pivots into their holes.
1:48:04 - 1:50:27 Attaching the gathering pallet in the correct position.
1:50:27 - 1:54:32 Oiling the pivots, anchor pallets, escape wheel teeth, and minute post.
1:54:32 - 2:07:18 Attaching the parts that go outside the plates.
2:07:18 - 2:10:31 Re-bending the rack and drop lever; testing the rack and snail function.
2:10:31 - 2:12:43 Testing the corrected rack and levers.
2:12:43 - 2:15:36 Attaching the bellows levers and the hammer.
2:15:36 - 2:17:45 Attaching the bird and chains;
2:17:45 - 2:22:28 Putting the movement into the case.
2:22:28 - 2:23:07 Testing the new bellows.
2:23:07 - 2:23:38 The clock cuckoo'ing on a test stand.
2:23:38 - 2:23:50 The finished clock running on the wall.
I love videos like this one, where you take the time to show and explain your entire process. Great video!
What a love bug. Thank you for sharing your granddaughter. Very touching.
Enjoyed the video. Looks like my clock. I am 61 and bought my cuckoo when I was around 12 or so. It's in need of some fixing but still runs. We too had the cold weather last week. -35 here in MN.
I love these marathon sessions. I learn a lot.
James Bicknell I think Mr. Perry has the best encyclopedia of videos for cuckoo repair! Very helpful guy.
Great videos Don I've been following you for the last 2 years I am learning myself how to repair clocks you make it look easy to follow you so that I can learn how to do it and I appreciate that
Glad to help. Also, if you want to learn more, consider joining the NAWCC, (National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors) and use their forum for valuable information. nawcc.org/
Thank much for your videos Hoss. Someone gave me an older cuckoo clock on most like you are working on and was going to throw it away I'm in the process of watching your videos and thank with much luck I can fix it so thank you because before this I knew nothing about cuckoo clocks LOL.
Lily, your pumpkin, is adorable!
Yes, I think so. She's also learning about clock movements and actually helped me oil one. She is also the designated cuckoo clock winder for the cuckoo clock upstairs.
Thanks for sharing you give good information thank 👍
Great video as always. I like the way you explain things. I have a question though. How similar/ different is Hubert Herr movement to Regula 25 in terms of strike side assembly. On a Regula 25 one has to pay attention to the gathering pallet position in relations to the black S shaped plastic tab on the same wheel and also the tab that keeps the bird perch closed. The the star wheel can easily be adjusted later since it is outside. How does the strike side work on a hubert herr? Thanks .
I'm a new subscriber and just wanted to say Hi! I started watching and now two days have passed! I admire how you work and with what you work with... There doesn't appear to be any $2,500 bushing or other terribly expensive machines to be seen... That's encouraging for someone who might want to start tinkering with an old clock or two.
I've been repairing clocks for more than 50 years and have worked with minimal tooling for most of those years. I finally bought a spring winder. I'm just too old to work with the springs the old-fashioned way. I encourage you to stick with your interest in clocks and to check out the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC). They have a nice website and a message board where you can learn a lot. Also, some nice RUclips videos for the beginner. mb.nawcc.org/
ruclips.net/video/lDZHlcjQnOo/видео.html
@@dperry428 I will do that, thank you! I'm a retired computer programmer by trade, but love technology of all types. We have three windup clocks here in our apartment. A grandfather, an Atmos, and a recent small 400 Day Cock that I bought just to watch it work... All of them work well. However, I just sent the bellow off to be recharged for the Atmos. This effort kind of piqued my interest in clocks again. A look at eBay is kind of sad... In that, there are so many old mechanical clocks out there that need some love. I ordered three older used books from eBay on the clock repair subject and have 67 years of tools but none specifically for clock repair. Watching you gives me an idea of what might be the minimum required... Ironically, I just watch the first video where your new Main Spring tool showed up... It's a beauty! Again Thank you!
Wow. You all are getting some cold weather! Glad to see you have some good help!
It's not been a lot of fun. Last week, we had freezing rain, followed by significant snow. My driveway slopes dramatically and, as I went up the slope with the snowblower, I uncovered the ice and both my feet went out from under me. My son had to help me get up. Bruised my hand pretty badly. The weather has been absolute proof that my concrete formulas will stand up to nearly anything. It's been the extreme in freeze/thaw cycles. I'm trying to stay in the workshop as much as possible while praying for an early spring.
Sorry to hear you hurt yourself, glad you're ok!
@dperry428 Hello Sir! i stumbled across your video last night and was amazed at how you took that down to nothing and got it back together again, cut no corners thats for sure its nice to see someone that takes pride in their work. My favorite part though is when your magic came in and stole the show she is a gem,bless her heart. i wanted to ask a couple questions 1. do you repair clocks for anyone needing your expertise? 2. my mom gave me one that she said she got from a yard sale back when she was around 9, she is in her 70s now. This clock has a very similar if not exact same bones as the one in this video but has a bunch of other pieces attached to the outside a rabbit and a pheasant are on left and right sides and appear to be hanging like they were strung up. top center is a large Buck, bottom center is a satchel and a rifle strung across it with a leather strap.and tree leafs around the perimeter all appear hand carved pieces. on the inside on the back of the movenment---is that right? gear box looks like its brass and has made in germany stamped on it. just below that and centered is a pyramid with a circle {maybe the earth} inside the triangle and across the bottom are ???MIUS and thats all i see for a maker. im not certain about the U and there are other letters before the M aprox 2-3. would you happen to know who makes this? i searched the web for german coukoo clock makers and tried to match the letters i have with a name but had no luck, could not even see anything with the triangle. anyway thanks for the video and let me know if you will about the two questions.
I repair clocks as a winter hobby. I have to get to know something about a person online before I accept a clock for repair. Too many trolls, scam artists and generally dishonest cretins crawling around the internet. You can post an email in a comment as I hold comments for approval. I can then contact you via email and delete the comment before it even gets posted. The clock you describe is a typical hunter style cuckoo clock. They're a nice style and have been around for a very long time. Your descriptions of the markings on the back do not raise any ideas from my limited knowledge. Keep in mind that there were limited numbers of manufacturers who made the movements and then sold them to the clockmakers, who were furniture makers and wood carvers, so many of these movements were made by a company that stamped the clockmakers name onto the plate. I've repaired two very old cuckoo clocks that were stamped, "Sears, Roebuck and Co". Sears had the clocks made in Germany and imported them with their name on them from about 1890 to the early 1900's. If we communicate via email, you can send pictures and that would make identification much easier than a description.
Excellent video. Working on my grandfather's cuckoo clock that is the same model. What cleaning solution do you use?
This is what I use: timesavers.com/i-22336012-zenith-watch-clock-cleaning-concentrate-251na.html You can make your own using Dawn dishwashing soap, Murphy's Oil Soap and a bit of household ammonia if you want to remove tarnish from the brass.
I love these videos. Do you take in clocks from anywhere? I have several which need fixing and would love to not only get them up and running again, but to see it on this channel ☺️
Sometimes I do, but I have enough to do when I'm again able to. I pretty much only do clock work during winter when I can't be outside. I have a few to catch up on and can't even do those until my new hip heals. I also have a few of my own in my collection that need work and I need to get them done to give away to my children and grandchildren. I don't have a business, just a part-time hobby. If Providence gives me more time, keep watch and perhaps there will come a time when I can accommodate you. In the meantime, why not try the repairs yourself?
@@dperry428 That's totally understandable, was just curious since I recently stumbled across this channel and have been wanting to bring back those clocks. I'm actually blind, which is why I'd never even think about trying to work with these. Would probably ruin the parts before they were even out of the case😂.
Amazing talent and patience and talent you have! I have a gooked up broken cuckoo clock that I wish I could get to you. My fault..I did it!
Comment with an email address and I'll get back to you. No one will see the email address as I hold comments for approval.
@@dperry428 Very informative videos. I have a regula 25 movement that is needing some work. I would like to see if your interested in looking at it?
Post an email in a comment and I'll get back to you. Be advised, it will be several weeks before I can accept another clock to fix. i work slowly.
I’m just starting out on repairing cuckoo clocks. One problem that I keep finding is clocks that keep cuckooing until the weight runs down. Typically on 1 day clocks by Hubert Herr or Harzer Uhrenfabrik. They seem to have almost the same movement.
Bent or missing warning pin or bent lever in the strike mechanism. ruclips.net/video/b_RxfNN6vX4/видео.html
Great video Don! What's the grit of the teal color sand paper you use to polish the pivots? Thanks
I don't know. I get them from timesavers.com and that color is their finest grit. It finishes to a mirror finish. It's listed as 6/0 grit and is the finest grit they offer.
Coincidently I just wrote an Instructable on how to make your own sanding sticks for polishing pivots. I use 1500 grit followed by 2500 grit, as described in a clock maker's paper that compared sanding to filing pivots. The Instructable is at www.instructables.com/id/Sanding-Sticks-for-Polishing-Clock-Pivots/. The paper that describes the sanding technique and grit numbers is at www.abouttime-clockmaking.com/downloads/Whiteman%20Pivot%20Analysis%202.pdf
dperry428, keep up these instructive videos! I learn so much with each one!
I’m watching this video on the bushings etc.
Got a number 36 broach that says largest it will cut is 2.70mm. Are these broaches tapered?
Have not received it from timesavers yet due to lockdown but studying your videos in meantime. Thanks and stay safe
There is, indeed, a taper to both cutting broaches and smoothing broaches. That's why there is a range of sizes each will cut. It is also why you broach from both sides of the plate, You start broaching on the insides until the pivot just starts to go in. That is the point at which the hole is big enough on the inside but is still too small on the outside. If you continue to broach until the pivot goes all the way in, the hole will be the right size on the outside of the plate, but too big on the inside. You now have a hole that has little bearing surface and will wear out quickly because half the hole is too big. If you stop broaching from the inside until the pivot starts to go in and then switch to broaching from the outside, the hole will be just right all the way through.
BTW, you're going to need more than one broach. 2.7 mm is pretty big. Most of the bushings on cuckoo clocks are in the 1mm to 1.5 mm.
dperry428 bushings I bought are number 9 outside diameter 2.5mm. Was going to use 2.7 for that. I was taking your previous advice and adding tools slowly as needed.
Now I see I need the smaller broach for inside diameter. I’ll practice on old plate anyway.
Thanks
Can you please share a link or supplier for your pin vise, cutting broaches, and smoothing broaches? Truly enjoy your videos!
timesavers.com/
blackforestimports.com/
Those little E-clips, when located between the plates are a real pain to install! Makes me wonder how these get installed in the factory.
I should just break down and buy the tool to install them.
I'm waiting for the sting of buying the wrong pliers to pass :-( I bought some McMaster-Carr ring pliers that looked like the right thing, but turned out to be way too weak (pressed metal handles rather than cast handles).
My plan is - once I feel rich enough - to buy "Knipex 46 21 A01 SB Circlip Pliers for external circlips 3-10mm 90° angled" from Amazon, based on a thread at the NAWCC site: mb.nawcc.org/threads/e-clip-or-locking-clip-removal-on-back-plate-regula-movements.155880/ I'm hoping those are the right pliers to painlessly install and remove those nasty Regula e-clips.
@@BradfordNeedham The worst parts for me are my increasingly poor vision and the slight magnetism of the pliers. Get those tiny 1/16th inch e-clips in place, bring the pliers close and watch the clips get pulled right out of place. Really not a big deal, but just slight aggravation. I like the small needle-nose plier. I think I'll grind the tips and silver solder brass in place of the steel.
Is hubert herr still in business in 2021? seems to be pretty hard to find their clocks new
Don't know the current status. Last I heard (2020), they were not in production and looking for a buyer.
جميلة فن وابداع وعراقة المانية اصيلة 😙👍
شكرا جزيلا
One of the things I do now is I unscrew the bird from the perch, instead of bending the wire off the door. It’s less chance to snap an old wire and all you need to do is slide the bird off after you loosen the screw.
I've done it both ways, as well as both. Many times, especially on older clocks, the wooden bird needs repainted or, on any clock the door wire needs replaced anyway because of rust.
Is it advisable to oil the clock every 3yrs? Or NOT to oil at all? Some say it doesn't matter if you oil or not ....the movement will last 30-35yrs whether you oil it or not is this true?thanks and great video :)
It depends on a number of variables. As a general rule, it is advisable to oil the clock every 3 to 5 years. However, to properly oil a clock, removing it from the case to get to the pivot holes in the front plate is necessary. If you can do it yourself then, by all means, oil it. If you cannot do it yourself, your choice, then, is to take it to a professional, an expensive proposition. Now, you have to decide whether the cost of professional maintenance is worth it to you. If the clock is a cheap, modern clock, you may find the cost of maintenance exceeds the cost of simply buying a new one. If the clock is a valuable family heirloom or an expensive modern one, you may find it a wise choice to have it professionally maintained. Also, if the clock is valuable either as an heirloom or an expensive one that you intend to pass along to your heirs, you may find it cheaper to pay a professional to maintain it rather than pay the much higher cost of replacing bushings and pivots caused by the wear of neglect. Other variables as to how often a clock should be oiled include the environment in which it is kept. If it hangs in a kitchen, for example, exposed to oil and grease of cooking and the heat from the stove and oven, the clock will not just require oiling, but cleaning more frequently. The quality of oil used in lubricating the clock is another variable. 3-in-1 oil is NOT clock oil, nor is WD40. Use those and a clock will not only need oiling more frequently, but a complete overhaul. As for the 30 to 35 year lifespan of a movement, that may be true, but it will likely not run that long without maintenance of some sort and also may lose it functionality, such as chimes that don't work or a clock that doesn't keep accurate time. A clock is a machine, a mechanical device. it requires maintenance to continue to function as designed, much as your car. When you buy a car, do you choose not to change the oil and just drive it until it fails, then buy a new one? I've known people who do exactly that.
@@dperry428 thanks a lot,I highly appreciate your straightforward answer :) thanks again and have a great day.
Can a nobish nil training repair coco clock?where can i repair?
It appears you installed the washer on the intermediate wheel upside down. Does it make a difference if the concave side is up? Love your videos I learn a lot from them. Also I started to watch one of your current videos where you had an extremely dirty old movement. Somehow I did not see the finished video. Can you direct me to that video?
Thanks Bob
Good observation. You caught my "cheat". By putting it on with the concave side up, the hour pipe can be pulled forward enough to allow the gear at its base to slip off the top edge of the pinion on the intermediate wheel and be rotated a tooth or two to adjust the positioning of the rack tail on the snail if there is a problem. After all the final adjustments are made and everything is working perfectly, the washer can be reversed with the concavity downward. With it in that position, the hour pipe gear cannot be moved past the end of the intermediate wheel pinion. Once the hands are attached to the movement, the hour tube cannot be moved forward and it's not a problem, even if I should, in my old age, forget to flip that washer over.
Thanks for your reply. How about the dirty movement video I mentioned?
If you mean the video about the "real challenge" movement, the video is not yet available as I'm just now working on the movement. It's going to take a lot of time. It needs 16 bushings, 19 trundle wires replaced, at least 2 arbor pivots replaced. both chain wheels rebuilt, a brass lever rebuilt and, most critically, the pallets on the anchor ground, polished and refitted or a new strip pallet constructed.
Thanks, can't wait to see it
What kind of cleaning solution are you using? L & R?
timesavers.com/i-22336012-zenith-watch-clock-cleaning-concentrate-251na.html
Where can i order one this Pendulum ? Please and thank you
frankenmuthclock.com/collections/parts-cuckoo-clock-quartz-cuckoo-miniature/pendulums-hardware
Great video. I have recently received a Herr 1 day clock but cannot figure out how to engage the night shut- off. It's got three side door. Can you help?
Not familiar with the night shut-off on that clock.
@@dperry428 Thank you. I really like the clock just don't want to hear it at night.
My 1940's Herr does not have one... Mine has 3 chains and just removing the weights that do not run the clock will turn mine off. Possibly the cuckoo can be shut off with the door hook.
How do you rate Hubert herr movements in comparison to Regula ?
Honestly, I don't see any real differences, at least as far as functionality. Regula may be just a bit easier to work on. Opinions are all over the place, however. It's kind of like asking, "Which is better -- Ford or Chevy?" There are a lot more Regula movements around as they make movements for everybody and his brother. When it comes to either one, though, the older ones are better than the newer ones. I think they look to making things cheaper to manufacture and, thus, make working on them tougher. For example, on older Regulas, the star wheel on the outside back was put on with a set screw; newer ones are a press fit. They save on drilling and tapping a hole, plus the cost of a screw. Two operations less and one screw less. The press fit ones of today, however, give repairers nightmares trying to get them off.
dperry428 Thanks for the in depth answer. Seems like quality suffers in all aspects of manufacturing these days, tools etc.
dperry428 good morning. Hope your doing well.
I’ve decided to buy some broaches and reaming bits. I’ll be attempting the movements in your videos and buying from timesavers. Could you recommend a few essential tools to start me of. If I can just buy reaming bits and use drill I will. And most common diameter bits you use if that’s possible to answer.
Appreciate all the advice.
Morgan
If you mean for bushing worn holes, buy what you need to bush the holes you'll be working with and add to your collection of tools as time goes by. Buy what you can afford. Reamers are not cheap. To bush a hole, you need to measure the pivot that goes in that hole. You'll need a bushing with an internal hole (bore) of that size or smaller. That bushing will have an outside diameter. You'll need a reamer to cut the hole for that outside diameter. They are about 3/100th of a millimeter smaller than the outside diameter of the bushing so the bushing fits really tight. Then, you'll need a cutting broach to enlarge the bore to fit the pivot. Broaches are tapered. You'll need a size that fits into the bore of the bushing and tapers enough to cut to the size of the pivot. For most clocks, it is the second wheel that will be most in need of bushing. As you need more sizes, add to your collection
dperry428 thank you. The videos are really helpful I’ve got a decent bit of information on the bushing side.
I’ll buy slowly and see how I get on.
Thanks
Your videos are fantastic! with your education I successfully replaced the time ratchet wheel on a Regula 25. I have an Antique PHS kukuk with movement in cast brass that needs bushings & cleaning. Can you PM me?
Google did away with private messages in RUclips. You can give me your email address in a comment here. I hold all comments for review, so I can copy the email and then delete the comment without posting it.
I have the same Hubert herr, how hard should it be to turn the square shaft like your doing at 2:11:40 I see your doing it with your fingers on my I need to use pliers. Is this a problem if so how would I fix it? Thanks.
And where would I buy the short bellow lifter 2:13:03
Without the final nut on the innermost threaded rod, it should be very easy to turn. Many people do not understand how the motion works on the Hubert Herr is meant to function and end up modifying something to make it work the way they THINK it should work. In all clocks there is a need to have a clutch mechanism to allow for the manual movement of the hands to set the time when needed while, at the same time, providing enough friction to allow the hands to be moved by the mechanism to actually keep time. The real clutch is on the center shaft between the plates and the motion works that moves the hour and minute hands is disconnected from the that clutch mechanism when the end nut is not screwed on and tightened against the minute hand tube (the one with the square, threaded end). In my video, the end nut is not on, so I'm only moving the motion works and not the clutch mechanism on the threaded rod. So, when I turn the square end, which would hold the minute hand, I'm only turning that tube,which also has the cams that activate the strike, the intermediate wheel, and the round tube that would hold the hour hand. Without the end nut, the motion works is disconnected from the rest of the mechanism and without it, the movement would run, but the hands would not move. When the end nut is put on the threaded rod (center shaft) it is tightened until it jams against the square tube. That tight nut is what connects the power from the movement to the motion works. When someone doesn't understand how that works, they may think that the minute tube itself should have a friction fit against the threaded center shaft and squeeze the tube against the center shaft. That would make the square difficult to turn. It is likely that is the problem. The remedy would be to restore the round tube or replace it with one from a "parts only" movement.
Since Hubert Herr is no longer in business, I know of nowhere you can buy parts. The only options would be to make one yourself or get a "parts only" movement from somewhere like eBay. Making one wouldn't be too difficult if you have a small lathe.
Thank you very much. Video was very helpful other than this small issue I’m having.
@@dperry428 so the central shaft without the jam nut on it should turn easy without pliers? The minute hand tube turns easy by just fingers.
Very interesting clock repair. Are you formally trained, or are you self taught? I just bought a couple of old cuckoo clocks off of ebay, and this is just the type of content I need to get started.
No formal training; it's just a hobby I've been doing since 1968. Nice to see another one getting started with clock repair. You might be interested in the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) nawcc.org/ Also, if you haven't seen my other videos, here's a playlist ruclips.net/p/PLzgOxsVcbO_CyAebJDGYfO0Oe_cBTl6ak
WOW
Hello. Do you buy the bushings for the repairs?
Or custom make them there.
Thanks
I buy commercial bushing from Butterworth Clocks and Timesavers for most work except the bigger or specialty ones, which I make on my lathe. I don't keep a lot in stock, so many times I also make them for clocks with thicker plates.
dperry428 ok last question for a while, 😂
Do you use a bushing jig or drill freehand and tap bushing in?
I’m really into these clocks now, I’m a cabinet maker so I’m carving the face frames to complete the cases, the metal work is defo not my specialty!!
I use everything but a bushing machine. I've demonstrated using a drill press, a hand-held drill and completely by hand in my videos. I just tap them in with a small hammer, sometimes with a flat-end punch. I just make sure they're flush with the inside of the plate.
Each weight of this clock weighs how much gram?
320 grams
Thank you!
Iam having a clock can you tell me which weight( in grams)will be suitable? Can you send ur mail id or whatsapp no. So that I'll share the pic of it.
Both weights are 320 grams. I don't publish my email and I don't know what "whatsapp" is. You can try leaving your email in a comment, though you have to try stating "at" and "dot" in words or RUclips will censor it and delete the comment as spam.
Use gloves when you assemble it, because hands are leave salts and rust will appear.
The only time gloves are needed is for carriage clocks, 400-day clocks or other movements that are exposed for view. Your assertion that "rust will appear" is nonsense. The most that will happen is fingerprints will be become visible on the brass as it tarnishes slightly. I've been repairing clocks for 52 years. Handling movements without gloves has never created a problem.
@@dperry428 I have been repairing clocks for decades also and have never had one single issue not wearing gloves. Rust certainly does not come from fingerprints.
@@userprofilename371 thank you.
I’m in Ct. can I send you a very similar clock to repair? It just needs a chain replacement
Why not just buy a new chain and put it in yourself? Sending a clock to me with return postage would be very expensive way to replace a chain.
I want to do that, I actually don’t need to buy a new chain. It was just that one of the links broke, but I can’t figure out how to thread that chain back in, do I have to take apart the entire thing?
Wrap a piece of wire around the chain that is still in so that it doesn't fall off the chain wheel. Remove the hook and circle from the ends of the chain you want to install. With the back off, reach under the chain wheel and see which way it winds. Turn the clock upside down, thread the chain through the hole in the bottom and onto the side of the chain wheel. Using your finger or a screw driver, rotate the chain wheel to load the chain. As it feeds onto the wheel cogs, rotate the clock so the chain stays on the cogs while you keep rotating the chain wheel cogs. Keep rotating wheel and whole clock until the chain is drawn to the exit hole in the case. Pull the chain through the hole and put the hook and loop on the ends.
@@dperry428thank you! The chain however has already completely fallen out so I can’t do that with threading a wire, etc. do I have to remove the clockworks?
You don't thread a wire. Just turn the clock upside down, thread the chain into the hole that leads to the side of the chain wheel that will rotate the chain over the wheel as if it is being wound. Then, using a finger or screwdriver, rotate the cogs to carry the chain over the top of the wheel while also rotating the whole clock so the chain doesn't either fall off or get carried into the movement. Keep rotating the cogs until the chain is over the wheel, the clock is upright and the chain moves down to the exit hole. Then, grasp the chain and pull it out the bottom.
Don really enjoy your videos.Have a question about a 1 day Anton Schneider cuckoo clock.Periodically the cuckoos cuckoo doesn't match the time.It' doesn't do it every hour.I've tried moving the minute hand rapidly past 12 and really messing it up.Then I reset the time to match the cuckoo but it doesn't last.Don.t understand why it doesn't do it every hour.Thanks.
You need to understand how the number of cuckoos is controlled. If it is very old, it might contain a count wheel on the back. If it is not old, it will have a rack and snail control on the front of the movement. That is most likely the case. Irregular counts of the hour can be caused by a number of factors, but check to see if the rack, the arched, toothed lever, moves freely and drops properly at the hour. The tail of the rack should fall onto the center of a step on the snail. That is what controls the number of teeth on the rack that need be lifted before shutting off the cuckoo. Also, check to make sure the pin on the gathering pallet is not catching periodically on one of the teeth of the rack. Watch this for an explanation of how the rack and snail works and what to look for.ruclips.net/video/v4yreDqcf3E/видео.html
@@dperry428 Thank you for the help.I want to take the movement out of the clock.I'm having trouble removing the hour hand.It's so tight on the shaft it won't budge.Any ideas.I don't want to break it,thanks.
The hour hand is a simple friction fit. First, check carefully that some fool didn't glue it on. You'd be amazed at what some people do. If they did, try to determine type of glue and try to loosen it with the appropriate solvent. Otherwise, try a bit of penetrating oil (just a dab), let it set a few minutes, grasp the base of the hand and try to turn it. Otherwise, brute force with the risk of breaking it. Then, if it breaks, order a new set. frankenmuthclock.com/collections/parts-cuckoo-clock-quartz-cuckoo-miniature/hands-cuckoo
@@dperry428 Well Don I got the hour hand off with penetrating oil.Took pictures and made a drawing showing the bellow attachment to control arms and rabbit and deere.Lucked out and bellows weren't glued.No brad either(not good).Movement nexed.Keep fingers crossed.
@@dperry428 Good news is I got the movement out.Bad news is that while I was checking out the movement a tension washer fell out.I'm trying to find it on another Regula 25 that I have to find where it goes .Next step is to check out your viideo because I remember seeing it mentioned.Maybe that's my problem but I didn't lose the washer,thanks Don.
would you be interested in repairing a 1970 Regula 25 E. Shmeckenbecher small cuckoo clock? I will be glad to give you a donation for your time. You can let me know. (This one is a bit beyond my expertise)
It will likely have to wait until late next fall, if I'm still here. I have a couple to finish up and then It's time to go back to the yard projects. If you haven't found someone to do it, give a shout in October.
Alrighty! Thanks for letting me know ;)@@dperry428
Great job great dedication and passion. I liked each video I saw. Can you give us an e-mail address?
If you will leave an email address, I'll contact you and delete the comment with your email address. I don't publish my email address. There are too many jerks out there that would be sending me all kinds of trash.
Regula's are so much better!