Looks like you used Yamalube between the carb gaskets and the manifold plate and also between the plate and the motor. Please confirm. Thanks! Great video!
Have a 99 XL1200. Put a new throttle cable in as the throttle was not working. Now, upon further investigation, the cable pulley for the throttle/oil injection pump is sticking. Pull the throttle, it doesn't return. Is there a replacement or just take it off and clean up and lube good?
I would definitely check to make sure there is free play in the throttle cable, it should have about 5mm of free play when you apply throttle, before it opens the throttle valve. Also double check that routing is proper and the cable isn't bound or twisted. You can definitely lube them up! Hopefully that's all it is, I have seen that before, some WD40 or silicone spray would be good and just work the throttle. Make sure the cable mounts and pulleys aren't bent too.
Wicked Repairs absolutely! Would love to see you bud! I’ve got a 07 sportsman 500 that is driving me crazy!!! Wish you were closer, we could do a video diagnosing this turd!
@@maineboatguy probably needs a wire harness lol. Done many on those machines. The motors are typically OK on them but the electrical system is not so good.
Wicked Repairs 😂 I didn’t even tell you what it’s doing and you just figured it out!! I think I’ll be ordering a harness!!!! I’ve tried key switch, handlebar switch, removed fusible link from harness, sent pdm to “module masters” for testing but it supposedly is ok! Basically acts like someone is turning key on and off randomly! I really don’t want to replace the harness but this things useless otherwise 😞
@@maineboatguy lol it is a crappy job but is somewhat common from swamping these things. Funny how I've never had to replace a harness on a yamaha but have on many Polaris units! If the ecu is OK and its not loss of spark that causing, and everything else like ignition tests out ok, I'd def say harness.
Just got done finishing an xl800, second time pulling everything a part due to a ruptured fuel line that was barely rubbing on the head. Make sure you route everything back like factory. Also, make sure to get the right kits, for I series carbs. The regular 44 SBN carbs are smaller diaphragms and body. Mine rubbed through while cruising about 45 mph. Was able to limp home at 3 mph, but was across a huge lake. Lesson learned the hard way. Fixed it and also put more hose protector around fuel line for added protection.
I know it’s an old video but it’s by far the best one I’ve found. I’m redoing the fuel system on a 99 Yamaha 1200 xl and I’m having a hard time finding what psi the pop off should be and my low and high adjustment screws are covered by brass caps should I drill them out to get the screws?
The pop off pressure is 75psi for all 3 carbs. You can very slowly and carefully drill the plugs out, don't go fast or hold much pressure so the drill bit doesn't hit the screw heads. The front carb low speed screw should be at 1 1/2 turns out, the middle at 1 3/8 turns out and rear at 1 1/2 turns out. The high speed screws should be at 1 3/8 turns out for all 3.
@@wickedrepairs8527 I drilled out the caps and the low end screws were bottomed out all the way. I’m also having a very hard time finding a replacement check valve for the accelerator pump. Any idea where I can find one or even a part number
@@davidrusso3273 that's crazy that they are bottomed out, strange. I'd have to try to find a yamaha part number for you if they are available. You can go through SBT, they are out of Florida and have kits that should have them in there.
Sorry I didn't respond faster, for some reason i didn't get a notification of a comment. Typically on waverunner carbs there is no plug, depends on models, if you need to remove one, carefully drill out and be sure to do it slowly so the drill bit does not hit the screw heads. I like to drill a smaller size hole in the center then install a screw into the hole as a puller, and then pull on the screw head with pliers to remove the plug.
Hey do you have a spec sheet or official info on how much to turn out the high and low speed valves? I always sleep better at night knowing Yamaha said it
Yes I do! I have a complete factory yamaha book with specs for all 2 stoke models and some 4 stroke. At about the 2.5 minute mark the book is open in the bottom left of the screen
Looks like there are a couple of yamabond numbers (e.g.-4, 5, 6), which one to look for? Dumb question, but do you coat the threads of the entire grip? Is there a local source you can recommend like Permatex or similar if yamabond isn't specifically available? I will have to pull the carbs back apart to clean and adjust the hi/low needles. I'm surprised the rebuild kit didn't come with replacement seals
Definitely yamabond 4. I use a regular grip glue but have used other generic adhesives and even used black spray paint in a pinch, woks surprisingly well. What seals? The gaskets? They are separate. I get rebuild kits through SBT on line.
They are all different. I believe I did say them in the video but I just looked them up again in my book. The front carburetor is 7/8 turns out on the Low and 1 1/4 turns out on the high The center carburetor is 7/8 turns out on the Low and 1 1/8 turns out on the high. The rear carburetor (with the accelerator pump) is 1 1/8 turn out on Low and 1 3/8 turns out in the high speed jet.
The synchronization process is done with setting the needle valve pop off pressure. They should all open at the same time and same amount of pressure. I think these are about 15psi but I would have to check the specs
Great video. I wish to see this video before I spent so much unnecessary time. I guessing same carburetor on gp1200r? Is it same spec for carb regulations? Do you have a video how to bleed oil system? Thanks for video it helps a lot
Yes the carburetors are the same for GP. Love those machines, GP has one of the best hull designs if you ask me! The pop off pressure is the same at 75 psi. The low speed screws are 1 1/2 turns out on front carb, 1 3/8 out center and 1 1/2 out for the rear. All high speed are 1 3/8 turns out. To bleed the oil is simple, just loosen the screw in front of the idle knob until there is no air and only oil coming out then tighten it back down. Thanks for watching and I'm happy to help!
Late comment, but hopefully you still check these. I just rebuilt my 2000 1200xl carbs and it has a runaway idle now. Bought the waverunner used not running. The grey hose with the red line on the hose, what is it for? Because on mine the front carb has an exposed nipple that the grey hose is bypassing, and where the grey hose would have connected to it someone added a connector to the hose to skip the first carb. The grey hose is connected to the last carb though
It may possibly be a vacuum hose. I wouldn't bypass any of the hoses and they shouldn't be really. You have vacuum, fuel and return lines. That should be it and they should all be utilized properly. The only other lines would be to the Reed valves for oil injection.
Hey man! Sorry it took me a bit, but I have your info! Just been super busy! Pop off pressure is 75 psi. Low speed screw settings should be 1 5/8 turns out for the front carb and 1 3/4 for the rear. High speed screws should be 1/2 turn out
Hi, I thought your video was great. I have a question. I have a 2002 Yamaha xlt1200 and I did rebuild the carbs. I ran on land and got a good idle. I had to wait 2 days before I could bay test and I removed the seats and the bilge was filled with gas… a couple of gallons. It was pouring out of the carbs. What would cause that ? Have you ever seen that ? Thanks
Thank you, I appreciate that! Simple things first, make sure all the fuel lines are on and are secured properly. If they are all good, I would run it on the hose, make sure the seat is off for venting and get all the leaked fuel out of the hull before starting it for safety. Use lights and mirrors if needed to inspect around the carbs and lines for any leaks under pressure. It's possible that the needle valves are stuck or getting hung up making them leak over. The fuel would most likely come out of the hole in the cover of the diaphragm.
@@wickedrepairs8527 hey thanks for getting back to me. The carbs were filled with fuel, each barrel was full and dripping into the bilge. I couldn’t see with the mirror so I quickly remove the exhaust so I can get to the carburetors and take a look and that’s what I saw after I remove the flame arrestor that each barrel of each carb was filled with fuel and dripping out. When I removed all three carburetors each three openings on the manifold were filled with fuel as well. I’m not sure how this fuel system works as far as getting fuel to the carburetors does the fuel tank get pressurized ? I’m not sure how the return fuel line works either but obviously this was dangerous and I don’t want to put the carburetors back until I understand why so much gas poured out of them and into the bilge. Let me know what you think. Thanks again !
@@darrinscali5306 wow! You're welcome, I'm happy to help out any way I can. The fuel pumps through the vacuum hoses on the fuel pump bodies of the carburetors. The return line is to simply return any fuel that isn't consumed. I would remove the fuel lines and see if they are flowing constantly or if they stop. However, the needle valve and diaphragm should stop the flow of fuel until its pressurized and the needle valve pops open.
Thank you. I can do that, I just can't guarantee that it will run properly or need some adjusting when installed. Most of the time the low speed and idle adjustment is needed.
My Pop Off Pressure is set at 55 on all 3 and it works great now i am doing a 1200r not a xl1200 and my buddy helped me do my carbs last year this time i am doing them on my own .. I am going Pre Mix I throw those oil injection pumps str8 to the trash not made for it .. I will say some of the parts dry up becuase of being on pre mix only where the carbs turn just install a spring good to go never will fry a cylinder
Thats never a bad idea! If the pump fails its inevitable there will be catastrophic failure! That's awesome. Sorry it took a while to respond! I have my business and a metal detecting RUclips channel and for some reason didn't get my notifications for my repairs channel.
@@wickedrepairs8527 it seems to bog down and I am pretty sure the springs are incorrect. What size springs should I get for the XL1200 carburetors? Also, it seems like there is no oil coming thru the line into it he first carb. I pulled the hose and blew it out but I still don’t see oil being pumped into it. I do see it in the other 2 carbs though. Any thoughts?
@@steveoneway1 I'll have to see what spring size they should have. The oil could be a clogged filter. You can remove the pump and turn it to test it and make sure it's pumping through all 3 lines. That's odd though, usually it works or doesn't. I don't typically see 1 line not pumping.
Most likely has a stuck needle valve or a bad diaphragm. PWC carbs are the type of carbs that you should replace everything with a rebuild kit. All gaskets, filters, diaphragms, needle valve, and springs. You will have an air leak if parts aren't replaced.
@@wickedrepairs8527 thank you for the reply. Upon further research I learned that the hole is called a bowl vent. Would you still recommend rebuilding the carburetor or is there an easier fix? Thanks again
Your video is very helpful, best one I’ve seen on this topic. I have a 1999 LS2000 and am looking at rebuilding all 6 carbs. What rebuild kit do you recommend?
Thank you very much, I'm happy to hear that! I get carb it's through SBT. They are out of Florida. I have dealt with them for 15+ years. I want to say the kits are SBN44 but not positive. Their website is easy to navigate.
How do I tell the difference between a 38 and 44 carb. I bought a mikuni kit and it says the gasket arrangement is different in each. 1999 Yamaha LS 2000 boat
So I have a question. I just rebuilt both my carbs from my 98 xl760. Used oem mikuni carb rebuild kits. I did everything step by step like you said and when I reinstalled them and tried to start my ski there is no fuel pumping? I am lost. I just replaced the seal on my sending unit because it was leaking and the tank wouldn't pressurize. Now that I fixed that im kinda stumped on why there is no fuel pumping?
Possibly the pick up in the fuel tank. Maybe it is not connected or rotted off. Make sure the vent line isn't kinked or clogged. I dont know how long you cranked it over for, but it can take up to 3 to 5 minutes sometimes for the fuel to pump through and fill the carbs.
@@wickedrepairs8527 ok so I've had this thing since new. 20 years ran problem free. Then it just would idle and would putter out when giving it gas. I have replaced all the fuel hoses. The one way vent valve. Just bought a sending unit off ebay that had a bad seal on top so I replaced the seal. I bout new 1.5 seat and needle with 80 gram springs. Rebuilt the carbs with a cheap rebuild kit off ebay. Thing ran perfect for 5 hours last sat. Took it out Sunday and it ran 20 mins then bogged out and wouldn't restart. Asked a forum and they said rebuilt with oem kits. Carbs crapped the bed. So i just did with oem kits and now there is no fuel pumping. I have all clear lines so I could see not a drop of fuel? Turned it over for a good 5 mins. I just pulled the carbs off again to inspect but haven't ripped them apart. And does these settings for a xl760 sound right. High setting 1 and a half turns out and low half a turn out? Thanks for any help.
High speed should be 1/2 turn out and low speed 1 3/4 turns out for that machine. Have you checked engine compression by chance? Just to be sure the top end is good. Is the accelerator pump working properly? Try to spray some carb cleaner in the intake to see if it fires up that way, may help prime the system. Possible vacuum leak?
@@wickedrepairs8527 yea im at 145 on both cylinders. It did start with starting fluid but didn't help prime at all. Wasn't a drop in the lines at all. I'm gonna have to check the pickup tube and there's good vacuum so its either the carbs or pick up
So just took the carbs back apart and on the fuel pump I didn't get the clear plastic in either kit that goes down first around the screen? So I guess thats why there not pumping?
I rebuilt my carbs recently and found that My ski does not idle. I have checked that the idle screw is properly set. It will start then immediately die. When I can get it to idle sometimes it idles very high 3000-5000 on trailer. Tends to run a little better on choke but once you push the choke all the way in it idles high. Could it be a vacuum leak? I also replaced all of my lines with see through tubing and noticed that my return line has no fuel running through it. But I can see the fuel being pumped to the carbs. Does anyone have any suggestions or resolutions?
Could be the low speed screws need to be adjusted. Could also be an air leak. If it runs a little better on choke it's possible that it needs a bit more fuel, maybe something is partially clogged/dirty still.
@@wickedrepairs8527thanks for the reply, I checked the hoses and are tight. I am going to try replacing the manifold gasket with an OEM one instead of SBTs aftermarket that i put on to see if that does the trick if not then i will have to take the carbs off again and look at them :(
@@wickedrepairs8527 so i tore the carbs apart again and saw no blockage and even cleaned them again. when i took off the carbs i noticed that i shot the bolts through the paper gasket. I put it all back together with a new OEM gasket. it will idle well at about 3/4 choke out. once i push the choke in it dies. tried adjusting the idle screw with no success. it feels like i am not getting enough fuel. What i neglected to do was clean out the low and high speed screws on top and bottom. could this be the issue? still no fuel through the return hose. also when doing my pop off pressure tesr of the the carbs was leaking air so i had to put some yamabond on it to hold pressure hope this is ok. yes i used genuine mikuni parts.
Yes, not pulling the low and high speed screws and cleaning through them can do this. The issue is more than likely that there is some debris in the low speed circuit still. The low speed screw is the same circuit for your idle/pilot circuit that runs idle to 3,000 rpm.
I thoroughly enjoyed the video. It has helped me immensely with the engine that I have. You answered several questions that I had. You did a great job.
The way you would sync the carburetors is by checking pop off pressure on the needle valve. Depending on the machine and spring color/gram. Say pop off pressure is 15 psi, as long as all 3 needle valves open at 15 psi you will be good. If 1 is 15 psi and 2 is 11 psi and 3 is 17 psi then it will not take throttle smooth. It would be like running on 1 cylinder, then 2, then 3 when all open. They should be set all the same. That is your synch. Then if needed, you can fine tune the low and high speed screws while running the machine.
Idk, the only thing that's touchy about that is not having the machine myself to install and test, see if adjustments need to be made, that type of stuff. If I ever do that, I can't guarantee anything. Although I'm sure they will be ok with possibly needing idle and/or slight low speed or high speed screw adjustments.
@@wickedrepairs8527 I'll like to see what the cost for a rebuild and what state your in. I'm in the Jacksonville FL area. Anthony.camacho1980@outlook.com
@@anthonycamacho6475 I'm from Massachusetts. Most dealers are 100 to 125 an hr. On the machine typically runs $500 to $900 depending on model and # of cylinders/carbs including parts. Off the machine I'd say roughly $350- $550 for 2 or 3 cylinder with parts.
Looks like you used Yamalube between the carb gaskets and the manifold plate and also between the plate and the motor. Please confirm. Thanks! Great video!
Yes is did, yamabond. I either put that or spray Hi tack gasket sealer on the gaskets to make sure there's no air leaks!
Have a 99 XL1200. Put a new throttle cable in as the throttle was not working. Now, upon further investigation, the cable pulley for the throttle/oil injection pump is sticking. Pull the throttle, it doesn't return. Is there a replacement or just take it off and clean up and lube good?
I would definitely check to make sure there is free play in the throttle cable, it should have about 5mm of free play when you apply throttle, before it opens the throttle valve. Also double check that routing is proper and the cable isn't bound or twisted. You can definitely lube them up! Hopefully that's all it is, I have seen that before, some WD40 or silicone spray would be good and just work the throttle. Make sure the cable mounts and pulleys aren't bent too.
Great video Chris!!! I’ve done a ton of those carbs but I learned something new today 😂 keep them videos coming!!
Thank you! I appreciate it very much! Maybe one of these days I'll be able to get up there and visit you.
Wicked Repairs absolutely! Would love to see you bud! I’ve got a 07 sportsman 500 that is driving me crazy!!! Wish you were closer, we could do a video diagnosing this turd!
@@maineboatguy probably needs a wire harness lol. Done many on those machines. The motors are typically OK on them but the electrical system is not so good.
Wicked Repairs 😂 I didn’t even tell you what it’s doing and you just figured it out!! I think I’ll be ordering a harness!!!! I’ve tried key switch, handlebar switch, removed fusible link from harness, sent pdm to “module masters” for testing but it supposedly is ok! Basically acts like someone is turning key on and off randomly! I really don’t want to replace the harness but this things useless otherwise 😞
@@maineboatguy lol it is a crappy job but is somewhat common from swamping these things. Funny how I've never had to replace a harness on a yamaha but have on many Polaris units! If the ecu is OK and its not loss of spark that causing, and everything else like ignition tests out ok, I'd def say harness.
Just got done finishing an xl800, second time pulling everything a part due to a ruptured fuel line that was barely rubbing on the head. Make sure you route everything back like factory.
Also, make sure to get the right kits, for I series carbs. The regular 44 SBN carbs are smaller diaphragms and body.
Mine rubbed through while cruising about 45 mph. Was able to limp home at 3 mph, but was across a huge lake. Lesson learned the hard way. Fixed it and also put more hose protector around fuel line for added protection.
Hi when you did your rebuild what specs did you use I have a hard time finding 800 specs for pop off and hi and low settings.
@@seandaly9361 I'll see if I can find it in the service manual and post it here.
@@user-ym9wb2mk5e thank you
@@seandaly9361 I can get you the whole manual, shoot me your email addy.
I know it’s an old video but it’s by far the best one I’ve found. I’m redoing the fuel system on a 99 Yamaha 1200 xl and I’m having a hard time finding what psi the pop off should be and my low and high adjustment screws are covered by brass caps should I drill them out to get the screws?
The pop off pressure is 75psi for all 3 carbs. You can very slowly and carefully drill the plugs out, don't go fast or hold much pressure so the drill bit doesn't hit the screw heads. The front carb low speed screw should be at 1 1/2 turns out, the middle at 1 3/8 turns out and rear at 1 1/2 turns out. The high speed screws should be at 1 3/8 turns out for all 3.
@@wickedrepairs8527 thank you soo much!!
@@wickedrepairs8527 I drilled out the caps and the low end screws were bottomed out all the way. I’m also having a very hard time finding a replacement check valve for the accelerator pump. Any idea where I can find one or even a part number
@@davidrusso3273 that's crazy that they are bottomed out, strange. I'd have to try to find a yamaha part number for you if they are available. You can go through SBT, they are out of Florida and have kits that should have them in there.
@@wickedrepairs8527 it’s a power valve motor not sure if that changes things.
I’ve called Yamaha mikuni and sbt and no one can find a part number
Does the flaps of the choke need to be open when choke is or out?
When you pull on the choke cable the flap should be closed.
What’s the best way to remove the welsh plug to access the high and low speed adjustment screws?
Sorry I didn't respond faster, for some reason i didn't get a notification of a comment. Typically on waverunner carbs there is no plug, depends on models, if you need to remove one, carefully drill out and be sure to do it slowly so the drill bit does not hit the screw heads. I like to drill a smaller size hole in the center then install a screw into the hole as a puller, and then pull on the screw head with pliers to remove the plug.
Hey do you have a spec sheet or official info on how much to turn out the high and low speed valves? I always sleep better at night knowing Yamaha said it
Yes I do! I have a complete factory yamaha book with specs for all 2 stoke models and some 4 stroke. At about the 2.5 minute mark the book is open in the bottom left of the screen
Looks like there are a couple of yamabond numbers (e.g.-4, 5, 6), which one to look for? Dumb question, but do you coat the threads of the entire grip? Is there a local source you can recommend like Permatex or similar if yamabond isn't specifically available?
I will have to pull the carbs back apart to clean and adjust the hi/low needles. I'm surprised the rebuild kit didn't come with replacement seals
Definitely yamabond 4. I use a regular grip glue but have used other generic adhesives and even used black spray paint in a pinch, woks surprisingly well.
What seals? The gaskets? They are separate. I get rebuild kits through SBT on line.
Hi, I’m rebuilding my 1999 Yamaha XL1200 limited carbs and I was wondering what the adjustment specs are for my high and low screws?
They are all different. I believe I did say them in the video but I just looked them up again in my book.
The front carburetor is 7/8 turns out on the Low and 1 1/4 turns out on the high
The center carburetor is 7/8 turns out on the Low and 1 1/8 turns out on the high.
The rear carburetor (with the accelerator pump) is 1 1/8 turn out on Low and 1 3/8 turns out in the high speed jet.
Do these carbs on the 1200 have to be synched like a motorcycle? Or do you simply adjust the screws to specs on each carb and that's it?
The synchronization process is done with setting the needle valve pop off pressure. They should all open at the same time and same amount of pressure. I think these are about 15psi but I would have to check the specs
@@wickedrepairs8527 thanks for the reply. I'm about to start on the exact same model and year you were working on.
@@dukelps9132 you're welcome! Good luck!
Hello, what does it mean when the low speed screw will not turn? Thanks
It most likely seized up from corrosion. I would soak it in penetrating lubricant and try to work it out slowly.
Where did you find the low and hight speed screw settings???
I have books that come from Yamaha that are dealer only books. I got them when a dealership I worked for closed the doors due to the owner retiring.
Would you advise putting the carb body in parts dip once it's disassembled to get it really clean?
You absolutely can, just may take off the paint on the outside of the body. If so, just be sure it's all cleared of any paint flakes if that happens.
Great video. I wish to see this video before I spent so much unnecessary time. I guessing same carburetor on gp1200r? Is it same spec for carb regulations? Do you have a video how to bleed oil system? Thanks for video it helps a lot
Yes the carburetors are the same for GP. Love those machines, GP has one of the best hull designs if you ask me! The pop off pressure is the same at 75 psi. The low speed screws are 1 1/2 turns out on front carb, 1 3/8 out center and 1 1/2 out for the rear. All high speed are 1 3/8 turns out. To bleed the oil is simple, just loosen the screw in front of the idle knob until there is no air and only oil coming out then tighten it back down. Thanks for watching and I'm happy to help!
@@wickedrepairs8527 witch one of these is the front to the rear is the front the one with the carb wheel ?
Late comment, but hopefully you still check these. I just rebuilt my 2000 1200xl carbs and it has a runaway idle now. Bought the waverunner used not running. The grey hose with the red line on the hose, what is it for? Because on mine the front carb has an exposed nipple that the grey hose is bypassing, and where the grey hose would have connected to it someone added a connector to the hose to skip the first carb. The grey hose is connected to the last carb though
It may possibly be a vacuum hose. I wouldn't bypass any of the hoses and they shouldn't be really. You have vacuum, fuel and return lines. That should be it and they should all be utilized properly. The only other lines would be to the Reed valves for oil injection.
Hi if you ever see this can you tell me from the manual the 2001 gp800r carb hi and low setup and pop off pressure thank you if you can!
I should be able to get that info to you later on this afternoon!
@@wickedrepairs8527 thank you any help is greatly appreciated!
Hi I’m sure you are busy just seeing if you have any of that info
@@seandaly9361 yes, I apologize, I have a big event I've been getting ready for this weekend. I'm at work now but will get that for you asap!
Hey man! Sorry it took me a bit, but I have your info! Just been super busy! Pop off pressure is 75 psi. Low speed screw settings should be 1 5/8 turns out for the front carb and 1 3/4 for the rear. High speed screws should be 1/2 turn out
Hi, I thought your video was great. I have a question. I have a 2002 Yamaha xlt1200 and I did rebuild the carbs. I ran on land and got a good idle. I had to wait 2 days before I could bay test and I removed the seats and the bilge was filled with gas… a couple of gallons. It was pouring out of the carbs. What would cause that ? Have you ever seen that ?
Thanks
Thank you, I appreciate that!
Simple things first, make sure all the fuel lines are on and are secured properly. If they are all good,
I would run it on the hose, make sure the seat is off for venting and get all the leaked fuel out of the hull before starting it for safety.
Use lights and mirrors if needed to inspect around the carbs and lines for any leaks under pressure.
It's possible that the needle valves are stuck or getting hung up making them leak over. The fuel would most likely come out of the hole in the cover of the diaphragm.
@@wickedrepairs8527 hey thanks for getting back to me.
The carbs were filled with fuel, each barrel was full and dripping into the bilge. I couldn’t see with the mirror so I quickly remove the exhaust so I can get to the carburetors and take a look and that’s what I saw after I remove the flame arrestor that each barrel of each carb was filled with fuel and dripping out. When I removed all three carburetors each three openings on the manifold were filled with fuel as well. I’m not sure how this fuel system works as far as getting fuel to the carburetors does the fuel tank get pressurized ? I’m not sure how the return fuel line works either but obviously this was dangerous and I don’t want to put the carburetors back until I understand why so much gas poured out of them and into the bilge.
Let me know what you think. Thanks again !
@@darrinscali5306 wow! You're welcome, I'm happy to help out any way I can. The fuel pumps through the vacuum hoses on the fuel pump bodies of the carburetors. The return line is to simply return any fuel that isn't consumed. I would remove the fuel lines and see if they are flowing constantly or if they stop. However, the needle valve and diaphragm should stop the flow of fuel until its pressurized and the needle valve pops open.
That pin on the accelerator pump doesn't spring back out fast, is that normal or should it be springing right back out rapidly?
It comes back out slow, it definitely lags behind the throttle when the pump lever compresses it.
Great video I have these same carbs, would you be able to rebuild mines if I mailed them to you
Thank you. I can do that, I just can't guarantee that it will run properly or need some adjusting when installed. Most of the time the low speed and idle adjustment is needed.
My Pop Off Pressure is set at 55 on all 3 and it works great now i am doing a 1200r not a xl1200 and my buddy helped me do my carbs last year this time i am doing them on my own .. I am going Pre Mix I throw those oil injection pumps str8 to the trash not made for it .. I will say some of the parts dry up becuase of being on pre mix only where the carbs turn just install a spring good to go never will fry a cylinder
Thats never a bad idea! If the pump fails its inevitable there will be catastrophic failure! That's awesome. Sorry it took a while to respond! I have my business and a metal detecting RUclips channel and for some reason didn't get my notifications for my repairs channel.
I have a 98 xl1200. Could you tell me the low and high speed settings?
Sorry it took me a bit to get back to you! LS screw is 1 turn out and HS screw is 3/4 turns out. The pop off pressure is 64 psi, just incase.
@@wickedrepairs8527 it seems to bog down and I am pretty sure the springs are incorrect. What size springs should I get for the XL1200 carburetors?
Also, it seems like there is no oil coming thru the line into it he first carb. I pulled the hose and blew it out but I still don’t see oil being pumped into it. I do see it in the other 2 carbs though. Any thoughts?
@@steveoneway1 I'll have to see what spring size they should have. The oil could be a clogged filter. You can remove the pump and turn it to test it and make sure it's pumping through all 3 lines. That's odd though, usually it works or doesn't. I don't typically see 1 line not pumping.
I have a fuel leak coming out of a hole in front if a middle carburetor. What needs to be done to fix this? Thanks
Most likely has a stuck needle valve or a bad diaphragm. PWC carbs are the type of carbs that you should replace everything with a rebuild kit. All gaskets, filters, diaphragms, needle valve, and springs. You will have an air leak if parts aren't replaced.
@@wickedrepairs8527 thank you for the reply. Upon further research I learned that the hole is called a bowl vent. Would you still recommend rebuilding the carburetor or is there an easier fix? Thanks again
Youre welcome, if it's coming out of there, there must be something in the needle valve hanging it up or the diaphragm stuck keeping the needle open.
@@wickedrepairs8527 thanks again for the reply. Would you suggest the only way to fix runs leak is to rebuild the carburetor?
@@17Danielgonzalez yes, I'd say definitely rebuild.
Do you have a video on how to remove them from the engine
I dont but will have one soon for sea doo. Yamaha is a little more involved as you have to remove the exhaust pipe above the carburetors
Your video is very helpful, best one I’ve seen on this topic.
I have a 1999 LS2000 and am looking at rebuilding all 6 carbs. What rebuild kit do you recommend?
Thank you very much, I'm happy to hear that! I get carb it's through SBT. They are out of Florida. I have dealt with them for 15+ years. I want to say the kits are SBN44 but not positive. Their website is easy to navigate.
Are these carbs 38s or 44s? I understand there is a difference in the gasket arrangement in each
@@robertsepulveda2229 they are SBN 44 carbs
How do I tell the difference between a 38 and 44 carb. I bought a mikuni kit and it says the gasket arrangement is different in each. 1999 Yamaha LS 2000 boat
@@robertsepulveda2229 you have to look at the carb numbers to identify. Ls2000 is sbn44.
So I have a question. I just rebuilt both my carbs from my 98 xl760. Used oem mikuni carb rebuild kits. I did everything step by step like you said and when I reinstalled them and tried to start my ski there is no fuel pumping? I am lost. I just replaced the seal on my sending unit because it was leaking and the tank wouldn't pressurize. Now that I fixed that im kinda stumped on why there is no fuel pumping?
Possibly the pick up in the fuel tank. Maybe it is not connected or rotted off. Make sure the vent line isn't kinked or clogged. I dont know how long you cranked it over for, but it can take up to 3 to 5 minutes sometimes for the fuel to pump through and fill the carbs.
@@wickedrepairs8527 ok so I've had this thing since new. 20 years ran problem free. Then it just would idle and would putter out when giving it gas. I have replaced all the fuel hoses. The one way vent valve. Just bought a sending unit off ebay that had a bad seal on top so I replaced the seal. I bout new 1.5 seat and needle with 80 gram springs. Rebuilt the carbs with a cheap rebuild kit off ebay. Thing ran perfect for 5 hours last sat. Took it out Sunday and it ran 20 mins then bogged out and wouldn't restart. Asked a forum and they said rebuilt with oem kits. Carbs crapped the bed. So i just did with oem kits and now there is no fuel pumping. I have all clear lines so I could see not a drop of fuel? Turned it over for a good 5 mins. I just pulled the carbs off again to inspect but haven't ripped them apart. And does these settings for a xl760 sound right. High setting 1 and a half turns out and low half a turn out? Thanks for any help.
High speed should be 1/2 turn out and low speed 1 3/4 turns out for that machine. Have you checked engine compression by chance? Just to be sure the top end is good. Is the accelerator pump working properly? Try to spray some carb cleaner in the intake to see if it fires up that way, may help prime the system. Possible vacuum leak?
@@wickedrepairs8527 yea im at 145 on both cylinders. It did start with starting fluid but didn't help prime at all. Wasn't a drop in the lines at all. I'm gonna have to check the pickup tube and there's good vacuum so its either the carbs or pick up
So just took the carbs back apart and on the fuel pump I didn't get the clear plastic in either kit that goes down first around the screen? So I guess thats why there not pumping?
How Carburetors Are Adjusted PLS ?
As far as low and high speed screw settings?
I rebuilt my carbs recently and found that My ski does not idle. I have checked that the idle screw is properly set. It will start then immediately die. When I can get it to idle sometimes it idles very high 3000-5000 on trailer. Tends to run a little better on choke but once you push the choke all the way in it idles high. Could it be a vacuum leak? I also replaced all of my lines with see through tubing and noticed that my return line has no fuel running through it. But I can see the fuel being pumped to the carbs. Does anyone have any suggestions or resolutions?
Could be the low speed screws need to be adjusted. Could also be an air leak. If it runs a little better on choke it's possible that it needs a bit more fuel, maybe something is partially clogged/dirty still.
@@wickedrepairs8527thanks for the reply, I checked the hoses and are tight. I am going to try replacing the manifold gasket with an OEM one instead of SBTs aftermarket that i put on to see if that does the trick if not then i will have to take the carbs off again and look at them :(
@@amatt2009 absolutely, give it a shot and let me know the outcome
@@wickedrepairs8527 so i tore the carbs apart again and saw no blockage and even cleaned them again. when i took off the carbs i noticed that i shot the bolts through the paper gasket. I put it all back together with a new OEM gasket. it will idle well at about 3/4 choke out. once i push the choke in it dies. tried adjusting the idle screw with no success. it feels like i am not getting enough fuel. What i neglected to do was clean out the low and high speed screws on top and bottom. could this be the issue? still no fuel through the return hose. also when doing my pop off pressure tesr of the the carbs was leaking air so i had to put some yamabond on it to hold pressure hope this is ok. yes i used genuine mikuni parts.
Yes, not pulling the low and high speed screws and cleaning through them can do this. The issue is more than likely that there is some debris in the low speed circuit still. The low speed screw is the same circuit for your idle/pilot circuit that runs idle to 3,000 rpm.
What’s the big gasket called I’m trying to order that part for my Jetske
Not sure what big gasket you are referring to. The diaphragm maybe? I get kits through SBT, complete rebuild kits for about $50 ea.
I thoroughly enjoyed the video. It has helped me immensely with the engine that I have. You answered several questions that I had. You did a great job.
Thank you very much! I'm happy to be helpful to you! I appreciate you watching and leaving a comment also!
Do you have to sync the carbs?
The way you would sync the carburetors is by checking pop off pressure on the needle valve. Depending on the machine and spring color/gram. Say pop off pressure is 15 psi, as long as all 3 needle valves open at 15 psi you will be good. If 1 is 15 psi and 2 is 11 psi and 3 is 17 psi then it will not take throttle smooth. It would be like running on 1 cylinder, then 2, then 3 when all open. They should be set all the same. That is your synch. Then if needed, you can fine tune the low and high speed screws while running the machine.
Do you rebuild them if I send them to you? If so how 2004 xlt1200
Idk, the only thing that's touchy about that is not having the machine myself to install and test, see if adjustments need to be made, that type of stuff. If I ever do that, I can't guarantee anything. Although I'm sure they will be ok with possibly needing idle and/or slight low speed or high speed screw adjustments.
@@wickedrepairs8527 I'll like to see what the cost for a rebuild and what state your in. I'm in the Jacksonville FL area. Anthony.camacho1980@outlook.com
@@anthonycamacho6475 I'm from Massachusetts. Most dealers are 100 to 125 an hr. On the machine typically runs $500 to $900 depending on model and # of cylinders/carbs including parts. Off the machine I'd say roughly $350- $550 for 2 or 3 cylinder with parts.
I know all about Massachusetts Marine labor rates. Never had to pay up any. But I do frequent Marine dealers in Massachusetts
Nice performance
Thanks!
I need mine done too lol