so i was living in oslo around the time this gym opened, and yeah, its grading system felt massively sandbagged from the get-go. i think the other gyms of the same chain used to have a softer grading system originally---at least klatreverket bryn definitely did (don't remember about torshov), but i just checked, and it looks like bryn has the same grading system as løkka now. oslo klatresenter used to grade their routes directly, without a color grading system (i heard they somewhat recently switched to a color grading system, idk what it's like), and they definitely had softer grades than løkka back then. i don't think i ever managed to do anything higher than a blue at løkka, which they map to 5/5+, but i would routinely climb 6a(+) at oslo klatresenter and an occasional 6b (i think 6b+ was my highest achievement there). maybe they went for the outdoors grading practice at løkka, idk. i still love and miss that gym, though (like all the other gyms in oslo).
Yea the gym was great and I know my home gym is on the softer side. I want to go back to Norway and try other gyms to get a better feel for the font grading system.
Whenever I venture away from SBP it is usually a pretty humbling experience. This is sometimes due to differences in setting style and sometimes it's just harder. SBP seems to favor big moves to good holds for the most part, which tends to suit my style. (SBP also seems to have more highball(ish) climbs than other places, which does not.) When logging my climbs at SBP, I pretty much always pick the lowest possible grade for a color, even if it was difficult for the set. I occasionally go to San Diego for work, and while there I get a week pass to Mesa Rim. The first day is always really brutal, but by the time I head home my max grade there is usually not too far off my max grade at SBP (Though the "easy" climbs still feel harder). If you want an ego boost, and happen to be in Oregon for some reason, The Circuit in Portland is pretty consistently easier than SBP.
v-grades indoors for commercial gyms are just not a good idea. Leaves no nuance before v1 which in turns makes all grades under v7ish skewed since commercial gyms are inclined to offer faster progression for beginners. Font-grades have better range in lower difficulties. but colors without any grade comparisons are just better since it only needs to have progression in that gym.
so i was living in oslo around the time this gym opened, and yeah, its grading system felt massively sandbagged from the get-go. i think the other gyms of the same chain used to have a softer grading system originally---at least klatreverket bryn definitely did (don't remember about torshov), but i just checked, and it looks like bryn has the same grading system as løkka now. oslo klatresenter used to grade their routes directly, without a color grading system (i heard they somewhat recently switched to a color grading system, idk what it's like), and they definitely had softer grades than løkka back then. i don't think i ever managed to do anything higher than a blue at løkka, which they map to 5/5+, but i would routinely climb 6a(+) at oslo klatresenter and an occasional 6b (i think 6b+ was my highest achievement there). maybe they went for the outdoors grading practice at løkka, idk. i still love and miss that gym, though (like all the other gyms in oslo).
Yea the gym was great and I know my home gym is on the softer side. I want to go back to Norway and try other gyms to get a better feel for the font grading system.
Ok, but why did I just see myself in the background of a random FYP pull?
RUclips knows where you live! 👀👀
You should checkout Grip Sluppen in Trondheim. Best gym in norway by a milestone. It will also humble you HEAVILY
When I eventually go back to Norway I would love to check out that gym! Thanks for the recommendation!
@@TonyClimbs If you were to come to Trondheim one day, just reply to my comment again and would love to do a sesh with you my man💪🏼
Whenever I venture away from SBP it is usually a pretty humbling experience. This is sometimes due to differences in setting style and sometimes it's just harder. SBP seems to favor big moves to good holds for the most part, which tends to suit my style. (SBP also seems to have more highball(ish) climbs than other places, which does not.) When logging my climbs at SBP, I pretty much always pick the lowest possible grade for a color, even if it was difficult for the set. I occasionally go to San Diego for work, and while there I get a week pass to Mesa Rim. The first day is always really brutal, but by the time I head home my max grade there is usually not too far off my max grade at SBP (Though the "easy" climbs still feel harder). If you want an ego boost, and happen to be in Oregon for some reason, The Circuit in Portland is pretty consistently easier than SBP.
I appreciate the insight!
Booking a flight to Portland! LOL
v-grades indoors for commercial gyms are just not a good idea. Leaves no nuance before v1 which in turns makes all grades under
v7ish skewed since commercial gyms are inclined to offer faster progression for beginners. Font-grades have better range in lower difficulties. but colors without any grade comparisons are just better since it only needs to have progression in that gym.
So the grades are lower than they shoulder be?
I dont want to say they are lower than they should be. Just they are lower than I am used to.