Good job Grant on the Prusa Podcast #56. You did a great job at providing constructive feedback on 2.6.1 and relayed very well the kudos on the new features.
Yeah Damaged plate was in my mind, uneven heat was not. I guess I dont see it as much of an issue these days as it was a while ago? Someone said dedicated space for wipe/purge, which is a good idea too.
Nesting parts has been a huge pain to do manually and to finally get it as an option is a very good reason to cover a dot release. All other slicers would be foolish to not implement it as quickly as possible, I personally think this is a bigger deal than Arachne which spread quite quickly amongst the various slicers when it came about.
Love orca slicer, the fact that it has that device tab in which I can control my voron with, all in the same app is great. I can slice, upload and print and then device tab to monitor all in one.
If you are having problems getting the printed pegs from PrusaSlicer to fit, design the connectors as "dowel" type and size to match a real world object (like pieces of wooden dowel) and just don't print the provided pegs. (Sadly cut pieces of popsicle sticks or coffee stirrers won't work as well because there is no separation in the x and y sizes for the connectors in PrusaSlicer. So, rectangular holes aren't available.)
Dang well I'm building my 2.4r2 350 sometime next week. My interest all started when you printed somethings for me for my Flipper zero and pwnagotchi a year or so ago. We met and talked for a bit and ever since I wanted to start printing as a hobby. Here we are today. I've been using Orca with pretty good success. I might dust off prusa and finally update lol.
About bowtie joint, can't you do it twice - second time on upper part but flipped? Seems like an easy workaround. Also on a rabbit as shown just flip positive/negative, so lower part has a protruding feature on the top so upper part don't need support
It would not give us the key for that alas if we did it twice, I dont think? but I MAY be following what you are saying: cut it one way, flip it and cut the other way too, boom bowtie joint?
My MK4 has a couple of parts with PETG and PLA (I didn't want to buy PETG orange for just a couple of parts lol). They didn't separate, but I didn't want them to. I was surprised how well it worked. I didn't think it would work. So if you were to do this alternating layers thing I'm pretty sure you'll never get them separated.
@@3DMusketeers In the kit printed parts the PRUSA letters are embossed inward. It's a mono print. On mine since I printed my own parts it's an MMU print. There are only 2 parts they give you that have colors and that's the LCD cover (which I'm using because mine didn't fit) and the nextruder cover. In both cases it's like some kind of silkscreening. Apparently for the upgrade kits they give you some kind of sticker you put on your printed parts.
OMG! That arrange parts is cool. One of my biggest complaints is that arrange parts includes the purge tower.......even on prints that are mono color. I have to freaking slice the damn thing so that the purge tower is zeroed out before it's like.....ohhhh yeah you don't need one. THEN auto arrange works. So I wonder if that got fixed or not.
I like the snap connectors but definitely not for objects that have to keep coming apart. It would be good to hold the part true until the glue sets though. If there is a need for it to snap connect repeatedly, "Open Lock" is kind of the standard for tabletop terrain. It looks a lot like your buddy's (Dsk001) clip. I personally do not use it, mainly because there can be issues if you print pieces on different printers and tolerances. Rarely happens though.
I most likely will not be "on time" for the wednesday videos anymore. I have meetings at 1 now. My involvement in the meeting takes about 1-2 minutes tops, but it lasts for 30 minutes. sigh........ There isn't anything in this meeting for me that couldn't be covered via email. There are only 2 or maybe 3 people that actually benefit from it. lol
Hopefully they fix a bug where the nozzle moves down to the left of the print area! (I need to know if anyone has this same problem!) So far, I only have this problem with the Prusa Mini
@@3DMusketeers After the print is done, it will go to the original parking position, then move down slowly to the left and into the print area! This could lead to damaging the print or printer!
3:30 there shouldn't be any time difference, because the traveled distance is the same. Look closer. The spacing is 1mm no matter how the part's are arranged.
I'm curious how well the arrange feature will work with model with vastly profiles over their height, for example, a model rocket tail that is connected to the plate by a small circular section, but then further up has big fins extending from it. Would PS be able to nest other models under the fins or would it only look from the top and only place models where the entire Z range is empty. Still a great feature, but it may still be a more efficient use of volume to do some layouts manually. I'm not sure if this actually made any sense or not.
Not sure I'd want to cut a piece with a plane parallel to the build plate very often, *any* connector would be weaker than just cutting it along a different direction.
I mean.. the things you're used to are based on prusaslicer so they aren't as foreign as you may think. I'm still debating on the single wall top surface if I like it or not.. pros and cons?
@@3DMusketeers Switched from SuperSlicer to Orca Slicer and I like it. OS is merging thing from both, PS however does not, like they don't want functionalities someone else made. That's my feeling about it. However PS is great for starters. Regarding the "single wall on top surfaces" objects looks much cleaner, half way to ironed surfaces, like they are properly closed. Especially with nicely tuned printer. I'm using single wall on the first layer lately as well. I do miss some options from SS, but I can live without it. Btw my plates are filled in with the same parts, Formbot kit is on the way, printing it on my Trident :) Have a nice day, building and printing :)
The absolutely have been and are, but that is what I see in the change logs. I do think Prusa has their own priorities that may not align with the power users in the industry and since they are doing all the heavy lifting I cannot complain about it. I get the feeling though, they are not pushing the same way orca is, but orca has an entire working slicer that they add onto where prusa builds that slicer. Maybe that is a perspective thing from my side, I dont know.. UGH PS needs those plate management features.. that is a huge miss for me, even brought it up on prusa live lol
I’m kinda sad SuperSlicer has been abandoned and fell behind PrusaSlicer, it was way more flexible than PS and even OrcaSlicer. OrcaSlicer lacks any support for ERCF/MMU printers which need a purge block (because Bambu printers purge into the poop bucket…) which is a dealbreaker for me
@@3DMusketeers it supports “prime” towers, unfortunately not the Prusa-style purge towers. I’ll try the newest release but the github issue hasn’t been closed nor replied to in weeks so I’m not hopeful Might be worth it to just create a bambu-style purge system for my printer
@@3DMusketeers I agree, especially since it’s less compact/dense, though it may be worth it if I want to use Orca, the bed plate organizer is just so much better there
Honestly... im not too excited about the new arrange functions. I've not had good experiences with printing multiple items on the same build plate. It just takes 1 failure to end up with a pile of museum grade spaghetti and a nozzle that looks like the next host of Venom.
@@3DMusketeersI don't think their FDM setting uses a different auto arrange than their STL setting, and that auto arrange is infamously inefficient, leaving up to 50% of your plate unused
Kind of a meh update... I don't need any of the cutters or text emboss. The sorting improvement is ok. What I'd really like is better auto supports.. the only way to get proper supports is painting them & that's tedious especially when there's a topology change... restart!
I find the painting very cathartic, but also very fast. I dont use auto much though. It is a small revision update, not a big one, so who knows, it may be in the next one. If you have tips or something like that you can submit it to github!
they must see you on prusa 2 ow this sorting is nice saw bit but not it fits like a Matroesjka some settings in these slicers maybe nice to review grant'' only if they all smah that
![Kodak Black - Sharp Vibes [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oEV0OoLJeIs/mqdefault.jpg)
Yay! Kitty cat!
:)
That interlocking tool looks like it would be great for imbedding tpu as hinges and dampers
ooooh maybe! Yeah!
Just saw you on the Prusa Video. Good stuff. Came looking for your channel and found ya. Subbed! Keep up the great work sir.
Nice! Glad you enjoyed it!
Good job Grant on the Prusa Podcast #56. You did a great job at providing constructive feedback on 2.6.1 and relayed very well the kudos on the new features.
Thanks!
the nesting part is something I've been missing since I started 3d printing, some eight years ago. This is neat :)
right?!?!
Damaged plate, uneven heating on the bed, just because ... all good reasons for arbitrary bed shapes.
Yeah Damaged plate was in my mind, uneven heat was not. I guess I dont see it as much of an issue these days as it was a while ago? Someone said dedicated space for wipe/purge, which is a good idea too.
@@3DMusketeers i can think of clearence for bed clips. Those who use glass bed usually use some kind of clips and you dont want to print there
oooh, yes!
Nesting parts has been a huge pain to do manually and to finally get it as an option is a very good reason to cover a dot release. All other slicers would be foolish to not implement it as quickly as possible, I personally think this is a bigger deal than Arachne which spread quite quickly amongst the various slicers when it came about.
ooh thats a tough one as arachne was pretty awesome!
Arrange feature was basically broken before. Seems a lot better now. 👌🏻
100%
Good update, saw you on Prusa podcast
Yeah! It was great!
Love orca slicer, the fact that it has that device tab in which I can control my voron with, all in the same app is great. I can slice, upload and print and then device tab to monitor all in one.
I did not know this, but apparently PrusaSlicer has the same thing, it just is not called device, but yes I do like that feature.
If you are having problems getting the printed pegs from PrusaSlicer to fit, design the connectors as "dowel" type and size to match a real world object (like pieces of wooden dowel) and just don't print the provided pegs. (Sadly cut pieces of popsicle sticks or coffee stirrers won't work as well because there is no separation in the x and y sizes for the connectors in PrusaSlicer. So, rectangular holes aren't available.)
oooooh good idea
Dang well I'm building my 2.4r2 350 sometime next week. My interest all started when you printed somethings for me for my Flipper zero and pwnagotchi a year or so ago. We met and talked for a bit and ever since I wanted to start printing as a hobby. Here we are today. I've been using Orca with pretty good success. I might dust off prusa and finally update lol.
nice!
finally fixed the purge tower speed goddamn
yes, great to see it!
About bowtie joint, can't you do it twice - second time on upper part but flipped? Seems like an easy workaround. Also on a rabbit as shown just flip positive/negative, so lower part has a protruding feature on the top so upper part don't need support
It would not give us the key for that alas if we did it twice, I dont think? but I MAY be following what you are saying: cut it one way, flip it and cut the other way too, boom bowtie joint?
@@3DMusketeers Yeap, that's my thought process. Seems straightforward. I need to switch from Cura to have all greatest and latest features)
hmmm I will see if that works.
Yeah thats a killer feature
right?!?!
My MK4 has a couple of parts with PETG and PLA (I didn't want to buy PETG orange for just a couple of parts lol). They didn't separate, but I didn't want them to. I was surprised how well it worked. I didn't think it would work. So if you were to do this alternating layers thing I'm pretty sure you'll never get them separated.
likely not, but its not IMPOSSIBLE for it to occur
@@3DMusketeers true. but if the orange letters in my mk4 ever fall out......I can always print again. lol
I thought those were UV printed?
@@3DMusketeers In the kit printed parts the PRUSA letters are embossed inward. It's a mono print. On mine since I printed my own parts it's an MMU print. There are only 2 parts they give you that have colors and that's the LCD cover (which I'm using because mine didn't fit) and the nextruder cover. In both cases it's like some kind of silkscreening. Apparently for the upgrade kits they give you some kind of sticker you put on your printed parts.
OH ok. I mean if they do, just glue them back in?
OMG!!! interlocking colors!!! that's bad ass! This has been bugging me for over a year. lol
I figured you would enjoy it!
1st issue mentioned - You can print parts within parts in Bambu Studio.
huh?
@@3DMusketeers You're referring to it as Nesting.
yes, and I even mentioned that Prusa got it from Bambu in the video :) Not sure if it is a direct port or they did their own though
OMG! That arrange parts is cool. One of my biggest complaints is that arrange parts includes the purge tower.......even on prints that are mono color. I have to freaking slice the damn thing so that the purge tower is zeroed out before it's like.....ohhhh yeah you don't need one. THEN auto arrange works. So I wonder if that got fixed or not.
no clue, have not tried that
@@3DMusketeers well......currently you don't have that to worry about yet. However when your XL arrives........
true..
I like the snap connectors but definitely not for objects that have to keep coming apart. It would be good to hold the part true until the glue sets though.
If there is a need for it to snap connect repeatedly, "Open Lock" is kind of the standard for tabletop terrain. It looks a lot like your buddy's (Dsk001) clip. I personally do not use it, mainly because there can be issues if you print pieces on different printers and tolerances. Rarely happens though.
very fair!
I looks like the spool clips looks a lot like " Openlock " clips ? still my K1 and K1 Make profiles
That was my thought.
similar, but not 100%
I most likely will not be "on time" for the wednesday videos anymore. I have meetings at 1 now. My involvement in the meeting takes about 1-2 minutes tops, but it lasts for 30 minutes. sigh........ There isn't anything in this meeting for me that couldn't be covered via email. There are only 2 or maybe 3 people that actually benefit from it. lol
oh no! All good, they are not going anywhere!
Hopefully they fix a bug where the nozzle moves down to the left of the print area!
(I need to know if anyone has this same problem!)
So far, I only have this problem with the Prusa Mini
I am not sure of this issue? what is going on?
@@3DMusketeers After the print is done, it will go to the original parking position, then move down slowly to the left and into the print area! This could lead to damaging the print or printer!
oh, that is fixed now, its been fixed for over a year via firmware. I had that happen once..
3:30 there shouldn't be any time difference, because the traveled distance is the same. Look closer. The spacing is 1mm no matter how the part's are arranged.
Real estate is much better doh.
I figured with the smaller real estate, but guess not lol.
Can't wait to see you build the printer
same LOL
Can you review the new Wuxn printer? Its american made and seems like an mk4.
It's American assembled, but if wuxn wants me to review it they know how to get to me ;)
I'm curious how well the arrange feature will work with model with vastly profiles over their height, for example, a model rocket tail that is connected to the plate by a small circular section, but then further up has big fins extending from it. Would PS be able to nest other models under the fins or would it only look from the top and only place models where the entire Z range is empty. Still a great feature, but it may still be a more efficient use of volume to do some layouts manually.
I'm not sure if this actually made any sense or not.
That makes sense, and I have 0 clue.. I assume it uses just build plate, but yeah I can see how this could be an issue..
Cura have that in ages I thought. Not sure if I was right or not
I dont think so?
Not sure I'd want to cut a piece with a plane parallel to the build plate very often, *any* connector would be weaker than just cutting it along a different direction.
true, I often only cut for build height issues lol
Have you tried varioshore tpu to print foam like parts?
I have not, but I have some.
you could probably cut the dovetail off in dovetail mode to get the dovetail as a separate key.
I guess that is called a Bowtie joint
@@3DMusketeers now that they heard you I wonder if it will make the final release or not.
we will see!
The mail part of the dovetail should be on the bottom piece, then you don't get the big overhang.
@@maggge89 You can probably do that now. Just rotate the cutting plane 180 degrees.
I'm used to "single wall on top surfaces", chamber temperature and so on... can't use PrusaSlicer.
I mean.. the things you're used to are based on prusaslicer so they aren't as foreign as you may think.
I'm still debating on the single wall top surface if I like it or not.. pros and cons?
@@3DMusketeers Switched from SuperSlicer to Orca Slicer and I like it. OS is merging thing from both, PS however does not, like they don't want functionalities someone else made. That's my feeling about it. However PS is great for starters.
Regarding the "single wall on top surfaces" objects looks much cleaner, half way to ironed surfaces, like they are properly closed. Especially with nicely tuned printer. I'm using single wall on the first layer lately as well.
I do miss some options from SS, but I can live without it.
Btw my plates are filled in with the same parts, Formbot kit is on the way, printing it on my Trident :)
Have a nice day, building and printing :)
The absolutely have been and are, but that is what I see in the change logs. I do think Prusa has their own priorities that may not align with the power users in the industry and since they are doing all the heavy lifting I cannot complain about it. I get the feeling though, they are not pushing the same way orca is, but orca has an entire working slicer that they add onto where prusa builds that slicer. Maybe that is a perspective thing from my side, I dont know..
UGH PS needs those plate management features.. that is a huge miss for me, even brought it up on prusa live lol
For the dovetail can't you just do 2 and flip 1?
Maybe, but not exactly the way I had envisioned..
Arbitrary bed shape for printers with build volumes that have no-go areas *cough*Bambu*cough*
for sure
what is that 3d gloop you refferanced?
a chemical welding agent. Check them out 3D Gloop!
@@3DMusketeers hehe i thoght you just used the word gloop as a placeholder
nope, its an actual product LOL
I’m kinda sad SuperSlicer has been abandoned and fell behind PrusaSlicer, it was way more flexible than PS and even OrcaSlicer. OrcaSlicer lacks any support for ERCF/MMU printers which need a purge block (because Bambu printers purge into the poop bucket…) which is a dealbreaker for me
oh it has? that is a bummer..
I thought it supports purge towers..
@@3DMusketeers it supports “prime” towers, unfortunately not the Prusa-style purge towers. I’ll try the newest release but the github issue hasn’t been closed nor replied to in weeks so I’m not hopeful
Might be worth it to just create a bambu-style purge system for my printer
the poop system kinda sucks IMO
@@3DMusketeers I agree, especially since it’s less compact/dense, though it may be worth it if I want to use Orca, the bed plate organizer is just so much better there
I have seen people use it as packing material lol
Honestly... im not too excited about the new arrange functions. I've not had good experiences with printing multiple items on the same build plate. It just takes 1 failure to end up with a pile of museum grade spaghetti and a nozzle that looks like the next host of Venom.
If you like it then you should put a brim on it ;)
Lychee has the worst auto arrange function ever. No idea why you'd compare it favorably to Prusa ever
Its one for FDM works this way, at least it does for me..
@@3DMusketeersI don't think their FDM setting uses a different auto arrange than their STL setting, and that auto arrange is infamously inefficient, leaving up to 50% of your plate unused
weird, I will have to go and see what I have different..
@@3DMusketeers I've replied with example images in imgur but I'm guessing youtube spam filter ate my message.
correct, it nukes all links. sorry!
Kind of a meh update... I don't need any of the cutters or text emboss. The sorting improvement is ok. What I'd really like is better auto supports.. the only way to get proper supports is painting them & that's tedious especially when there's a topology change... restart!
I find the painting very cathartic, but also very fast. I dont use auto much though. It is a small revision update, not a big one, so who knows, it may be in the next one. If you have tips or something like that you can submit it to github!
@@3DMusketeers Some prints I have no choice but to paint... otherwise the whole object gets needless support everywhere
the auto painting may be useful, but I do agree that the normal auto supports are kind of dumb and WAY overzealous.
they must see you on prusa 2 ow this sorting is nice saw bit but not it fits like a Matroesjka
some settings in these slicers maybe nice to review grant''
only if they all smah that
like what they all do and why?
@@3DMusketeers because i dont get it lol
and you learned me more
gotcha