I installed herringbone in my house on my own and you need patience and there is no room for error period. Nicky Lauda a famous Formula 1 driver said ' there is no perfection BUT just a patch to it" well Nicky I got news for you " you have not seen installation of herringbone floor" as it requires perfection 100% /Lots of detailed work but when people come over my house they just drule. Mockeys can install straight planks of woof but herringbone is master.
lol. True. But this one is also an installer error. You'll notice that at each end of that dark board is a particularly light board. That highlights and exaggerates the darkness of the dark board. I was once told by a woman "Don't use THAT board! I don't like it!" So... I put it right in the middle of her floor, and carefully selected colours around it that would blend it in. It got so well camouflaged, that even *I* couldn't find it after, and I knew it was there!
Alexander Fagard I think it has to be chiseled out or so, making sure not to scratch the boards beside it. Cut the tongue off the replacement board and glue it in. Fill any cracks with saw dust and wood glue. Then sand and varnish it. But you heed to be a real wizard to make it look like nothing was ever done to that spot.
Easy ... right ? Lol , I say this all the time to my costumers . For example my latest costumer owns a massive Victorian stile home . It has 4 floors because the attic was completely finished . I’m guessing the house is 3500 + sq feet . So over the years the house has become somewhat dilapidated by precious homeowners not maintaining it . So just one of the many projects I’ll be doing to the place is refinishing their old door and fitting it with an antique mortise lock . So when talking to her she is like so it should only be a day or two of work right ? Umm wrong I am using a method called Dutchman to fill the numerous other holes in the door from where previous Owners just slapped these cheep deadbolts into it , one was from a modern kiwik lock and the other is what I call an “ apartment lock “ I have looked. Up what it is called and can only find “ jimmy proof lock “ , basically a rim lock . And to add to that the fir door has started to spread apart from age , where the styles meet the rails . And the last two complications are that I’m installing an antique mortise lock where there was already one installed , which you know if you have had any experience that there are specific hole locations for each mortise lock and being that her original lock is larger than the one I am installing . The second problem is the door jam is all sorts of messed up where the striker plate is from years of homeowners just running screw after screw into it to keep it from wobbling , so in turn about 3 feet of the jam is cracked and rotted , so I have to fix that as well . Now I am not one of those people who , after a job is complete walks away until the job is done absolutely correct .i don’t cut corners or say “ good enough “ . So three days into the project and the homeowner is like wow , I feel so bad for this I didn’t know it was going to take this long or that there were so many problems with the door . We agreed on 400 dollars for the job , I wasn’t anticipating the door to be rotten where the mortise is and a few other factors I didn’t take into consideration , but I say that to say this , I am technically losing money on this job , however I am gaining knowledge . I don’t mess with mortised locks on a daily basis , and add the factor I am removing an old antique lock and replacing it with an antique lock I am taking my time , when drilling or carving out for the proper lock placement you get one chance , berry unforgiving . But like I said I am gaining knowledge so the “ losing money part doesn’t mean anything to me . I have allot of other work to do for her and her swing how good it is coming out makes her more conf dent . Another reason I say all of this ( thanks for reading if you made it this far ) is doing Herron bone is extremely difficult the first few times you do them but if you take your time and think things through your bound to learn allot and feel proud when you are finished . Anyway off to work for me
The length DOES NOT need to be an exact multiple of the width. I just installed hardwood in a herringbone pattern manufactured in Sweden, and it is not a multiple of the width. The installation went just fine. The only time you may want the length to be an exact multiple of the width is if you are running one side parallel to a wall. If you do install it this way, you will end up having to rip pieces to width as you move along the length of the wall if the length is not an exact multiple of the width.
Nice tutorial... However , they make it seem too complex and I wouldn’t recommend to do it as a protect over the weekend ., Not really a Dyi project. But if you do .. make sure you’re square in the first row , and by all means STAY ON THE FIRST LINES
I have Installed many Herringbone wood floors and I always use adhesive (Bostiks Best). A rule of thumb is to always trowel glue and nail a Herringbone floor, if it is over a wood sub-floor , there are to many short pieces.
Great video. I've watched this many times in anticipation of a customer asking for this. Had a play the other day with tile (I'm a tile contractor in London) but the working lines didn't work out either side of the centre line as per the vid because of the 2mm joint in the tile. Should I have just moved one of the working lines over by 2mm? Thanks👍
Random question here but do you do work in the Clapham area? I've got a flooring guy in and I have a feeling he has no idea about Herrington floors. Only 3.5sq meters. Its a minefield trying to find the right person. Thanks.
@@isanna6075 self levelling sub floor, insulating boards, underlay, electric heating mat, engineered oak is the plan. I'm.based off Northcote Road if you want to take a look?
He says the short side of the triangle should be the same as the length of the slat, but that is wrong. The layout shown has the short side of the triangle at the slat's length minus its width. It is also shown to be so at 3:30. 1:15 - "With herringbone, the slats need to be a length that's an exact multiple of their width." I don't think so. I've laid out herringbone patterns without this restriction and it's been perfectly fine. The exact multiple rule causes individual slats to form a "broken board" across the floor, where if you sight along the slats they all line up. But, if you don't care about that, the multiple rule doesn't matter.
Yes. What you're saying makes sense, The herringbone pattern should work out perfectly no matter *what* length you cut them at. As long as they're all identical.
it won't work with varying lengths... just like says in the video.... Waste factor is typically around 15%, but can depend on board size, boarders, obstacles, etc.
yay! I was wondering if prefinished flooring could be used! I'd like to know interlocking laminate slats can be used to make a herringbone floor in my kitchen.
this is old school workmanship at its best however way to complex and time consuming in todays market. you can buy left and right slatts perfectly milled ready to be installed. much quicker and easier but still requires skill and expertise for successful installation.
here's some examples: www.homedepot.com/b/Flooring-Wood-Flooring-Solid-Hardwood/N-5yc1vZbejw but you can find flooring strips at most flooring or home centers
Thankyou for your reply. On your link I can find flooring examples but no accent strips. Are they just normal planks that are ripped down to the width you desire? Regards, Mike
Yes very nice but a lot if tricks are not explained especially if the design needs to be done in an uneven and not square hallway or room and also if the needs to be done when the space already has other floors installed dictating the space and the space is uneven and not leveled. Also if your planks have any variation in the milling the pattern will strat the get deformed and your 45 angle will shift causing your lines to missmatch and you will get stuck. I've been professionally installing hardwood flooring for 18 years now and that video is only the tip of the iceberg with a fine polish lol. These kinds of videos make people think they can learn a skill that takes years to perfect (and even then not everyone can master it)in a few minutes of watching a video lol. Leave this kind of work for the professionals because I guarantee that if you try to do what this video shows by yourself to save some money, you will end up getting really frustrated and hiring a professional to fix and finish the job and pay extra for the wasted material and the work to rip out and fix all of your work. Hope this helps all the Duy guys reading this 😊
Is it me or do some of these directions not make sense? Why is it necessary that your board width be a multiple of a board length? And the initial instructions on making a trammel and intersecting trammel points to make a perpendicular line. What is that all about? The rooms won't be square to begin width, so why not give instructions based on that?
He said to make an arc on either side of the line then proceeded to make one on both sides. Come on, if you start off wrong then the whole project is messed up.
Awesome video. You have inspired me to do a similar project. Why did you recommend cuttings the herringbone bone boards on the tongue side? Is that so you don't have to worry about making two types of cuts, one for each side? Wouldn't you want to cut on the groove side so the tongue can interlock with the board above it? Any light you could skied on this woods be greatly appreciated.
![How To Install Herringbone Flooring [Best Video On Youtube]](/img/1.gif)
A truly Master Carpenter: FESTOOL miter saw + Rolex GMT Master. Dude knows quality when he sees it, and also puts out quality work.
I didn't even have the patience to finish this video let alone try to finish this project
Spend a day dry fitting or you're going to be very upset. I'm amazed at the directions on this one. They were very good.
ماشاءالله
This shit looks hard as hell!!!
I can imagine the result I would get, mountainous ravines and peaks!
Happy New Year... here, have your brain explode by listening to these directions!
That would be for expert level. It's beautiful and thank you for sharing
The Cliffs notes version of this project is 143 pages long. Some projects can’t be explained in 5 minutes. This is one of those projects.
I installed herringbone in my house on my own and you need patience and there is no room for error period. Nicky Lauda a famous Formula 1 driver said ' there is no perfection BUT just a patch to it" well Nicky I got news for you " you have not seen installation of herringbone floor" as it requires perfection 100% /Lots of detailed work but when people come over my house they just drule. Mockeys can install straight planks of woof but herringbone is master.
and it’s classic look won’t get old. love it
Love your Niki Lauda reference. I'm terrified to do this with tile
Do your best fill the rest!
Beautiful flooring but quite challenging to install.
At 4:22 the customer would have told me to replace that dark board. Pisses me off every time
lol. True. But this one is also an installer error. You'll notice that at each end of that dark board is a particularly light board. That highlights and exaggerates the darkness of the dark board. I was once told by a woman "Don't use THAT board! I don't like it!" So... I put it right in the middle of her floor, and carefully selected colours around it that would blend it in. It got so well camouflaged, that even *I* couldn't find it after, and I knew it was there!
on a scale of 1 to 10 how hard would it be to replace that? like a 25?
Alexander Fagard I think it has to be chiseled out or so, making sure not to scratch the boards beside it. Cut the tongue off the replacement board and glue it in. Fill any cracks with saw dust and wood glue. Then sand and varnish it. But you heed to be a real wizard to make it look like nothing was ever done to that spot.
Easy ... right ? Lol , I say this all the time to my costumers . For example my latest costumer owns a massive Victorian stile home . It has 4 floors because the attic was completely finished . I’m guessing the house is 3500 + sq feet . So over the years the house has become somewhat dilapidated by precious homeowners not maintaining it . So just one of the many projects I’ll be doing to the place is refinishing their old door and fitting it with an antique mortise lock . So when talking to her she is like so it should only be a day or two of work right ? Umm wrong I am using a method called Dutchman to fill the numerous other holes in the door from where previous Owners just slapped these cheep deadbolts into it , one was from a modern kiwik lock and the other is what I call an “ apartment lock “ I have looked. Up what it is called and can only find “ jimmy proof lock “ , basically a rim lock . And to add to that the fir door has started to spread apart from age , where the styles meet the rails . And the last two complications are that I’m installing an antique mortise lock where there was already one installed , which you know if you have had any experience that there are specific hole locations for each mortise lock and being that her original lock is larger than the one I am installing . The second problem is the door jam is all sorts of messed up where the striker plate is from years of homeowners just running screw after screw into it to keep it from wobbling , so in turn about 3 feet of the jam is cracked and rotted , so I have to fix that as well . Now I am not one of those people who , after a job is complete walks away until the job is done absolutely correct .i don’t cut corners or say “ good enough “ . So three days into the project and the homeowner is like wow , I feel so bad for this I didn’t know it was going to take this long or that there were so many problems with the door . We agreed on 400 dollars for the job , I wasn’t anticipating the door to be rotten where the mortise is and a few other factors I didn’t take into consideration , but I say that to say this , I am technically losing money on this job , however I am gaining knowledge . I don’t mess with mortised locks on a daily basis , and add the factor I am removing an old antique lock and replacing it with an antique lock I am taking my time , when drilling or carving out for the proper lock placement you get one chance , berry unforgiving . But like I said I am gaining knowledge so the “ losing money part doesn’t mean anything to me . I have allot of other work to do for her and her swing how good it is coming out makes her more conf dent .
Another reason I say all of this ( thanks for reading if you made it this far ) is doing Herron bone is extremely difficult the first few times you do them but if you take your time and think things through your bound to learn allot and feel proud when you are finished . Anyway off to work for me
So on a complexity scale of 1 to 10...this would be....maybe a 57?!
haha,, thought the same!
😂😂
Funny!!!
Precisely
@@nasirkaysen3576 nope nobody cares
i need to do a year in uni just to do my hall way ..
This is really my favourite Channel!
Thanks for your nice Videos,
it is very enlightening,
Waiting for your latest update.
Drumsnab Parkette
The length DOES NOT need to be an exact multiple of the width. I just installed hardwood in a herringbone pattern manufactured in Sweden, and it is not a multiple of the width. The installation went just fine. The only time you may want the length to be an exact multiple of the width is if you are running one side parallel to a wall. If you do install it this way, you will end up having to rip pieces to width as you move along the length of the wall if the length is not an exact multiple of the width.
They meant if your board is 5 inches wide, you'd want the length to be a multiple of the 5 inches. It's asthetically correct.
At 2:50, I’m calling a contractor
With patience . Yes . Thanks
Nice tutorial...
However , they make it seem too complex and I wouldn’t recommend to do it as a protect over the weekend .,
Not really a Dyi project.
But if you do .. make sure you’re square in the first row , and by all means STAY ON THE FIRST LINES
I have Installed many Herringbone wood floors and I always use adhesive (Bostiks Best). A rule of thumb is to always trowel glue and nail a Herringbone floor, if it is over a wood sub-floor , there are to many short pieces.
this video is a cure for insomnia
Ok we.mark the center of the room and then.what?
Great video. I've watched this many times in anticipation of a customer asking for this. Had a play the other day with tile (I'm a tile contractor in London) but the working lines didn't work out either side of the centre line as per the vid because of the 2mm joint in the tile. Should I have just moved one of the working lines over by 2mm? Thanks👍
Random question here but do you do work in the Clapham area? I've got a flooring guy in and I have a feeling he has no idea about Herrington floors. Only 3.5sq meters. Its a minefield trying to find the right person. Thanks.
@@mallinsonhermon1646 I'm based in Wandsworth actually so not a million miles away from you. What type of flooring are you putting down?
@@isanna6075 self levelling sub floor, insulating boards, underlay, electric heating mat, engineered oak is the plan. I'm.based off Northcote Road if you want to take a look?
He says the short side of the triangle should be the same as the length of the slat, but that is wrong. The layout shown has the short side of the triangle at the slat's length minus its width. It is also shown to be so at 3:30. 1:15 - "With herringbone, the slats need to be a length that's an exact multiple of their width." I don't think so. I've laid out herringbone patterns without this restriction and it's been perfectly fine. The exact multiple rule causes individual slats to form a "broken board" across the floor, where if you sight along the slats they all line up. But, if you don't care about that, the multiple rule doesn't matter.
Yes. What you're saying makes sense, The herringbone pattern should work out perfectly no matter *what* length you cut them at. As long as they're all identical.
I agree.
Pretty straight forward. Thanks guys! #justhadapanicattack
Well done super video..!!
A lot of work, but worth it.
How does this work when the wood is of varying lengths? What would the waste factor be on a style like this?
it won't work with varying lengths... just like says in the video.... Waste factor is typically around 15%, but can depend on board size, boarders, obstacles, etc.
good
yay! I was wondering if prefinished flooring could be used! I'd like to know interlocking laminate slats can be used to make a herringbone floor in my kitchen.
super video
What !!
I won't be able to do it correctlu in millions of years.
super video !
this is old school workmanship at its best however way to complex and time consuming in todays market. you can buy left and right slatts perfectly milled ready to be installed. much quicker and easier but still requires skill and expertise for successful installation.
Neat, but where do you get the "prefinished decorative strips " from please?
here's some examples: www.homedepot.com/b/Flooring-Wood-Flooring-Solid-Hardwood/N-5yc1vZbejw
but you can find flooring strips at most flooring or home centers
Thankyou for your reply. On your link I can find flooring examples but no accent strips. Are they just normal planks that are ripped down to the width you desire? Regards, Mike
Good lord, this would give you the shits.
I'll leave this to the pros who do hardwood flooring every day... I could really mess this up...
Porsche924Tim I’ve seen plenty of so-called “Pros” mess things up and then just leave. I’ll learn to do it myself, thanks anyway.
ah yeah..that looks easyi...lol
Ok
Yes very nice but a lot if tricks are not explained especially if the design needs to be done in an uneven and not square hallway or room and also if the needs to be done when the space already has other floors installed dictating the space and the space is uneven and not leveled. Also if your planks have any variation in the milling the pattern will strat the get deformed and your 45 angle will shift causing your lines to missmatch and you will get stuck. I've been professionally installing hardwood flooring for 18 years now and that video is only the tip of the iceberg with a fine polish lol. These kinds of videos make people think they can learn a skill that takes years to perfect (and even then not everyone can master it)in a few minutes of watching a video lol. Leave this kind of work for the professionals because I guarantee that if you try to do what this video shows by yourself to save some money, you will end up getting really frustrated and hiring a professional to fix and finish the job and pay extra for the wasted material and the work to rip out and fix all of your work. Hope this helps all the Duy guys reading this 😊
Is it me or do some of these directions not make sense? Why is it necessary that your board width be a multiple of a board length? And the initial instructions on making a trammel and intersecting trammel points to make a perpendicular line. What is that all about? The rooms won't be square to begin width, so why not give instructions based on that?
Yeah i'll get started on this right away TOH...not.
Not as hard at it looks just take your time to get it right or I’ll be throwing stuff ha ha
This will void any warranty for the flooring. Very important to know
круто
I did something like this a month ago with plans from Woodglut.
Waaaay to complicated.
He said to make an arc on either side of the line then proceeded to make one on both sides. Come on, if you start off wrong then the whole project is messed up.
I don't think I want to do this. gesh
He is making it very difficult to watch his way looks like a no no to me
After watching this video, I won't be doing herringbone.
He should not use this old house, he has no right to the name,
good
Not a chance I would even attempt this.
Awesome video. You have inspired me to do a similar project. Why did you recommend cuttings the herringbone bone boards on the tongue side? Is that so you don't have to worry about making two types of cuts, one for each side? Wouldn't you want to cut on the groove side so the tongue can interlock with the board above it? Any light you could skied on this woods be greatly appreciated.
F that!!! You got to be Leonardo da Vinci to pull this off
I would stand back and marvel if mine looked ANYTHING like that... haven't got the patience
Damn!!!
Gonna try this soon!!