One MUST CHANGE Camera SETTING for Perfectly SHARP Landscape PHOTOS!
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
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In this week’s episode, we discuss one must change camera setting for perfectly sharp landscape photos. One of the biggest struggles I encountered when I was first getting started with landscape photography had to do with the challenges related to successfully focusing my camera. I can't begin to tell you how many times I used to return home from a trip only to find out that some of my favorite images we're out of focus - it's a brutal feeling!
In this video, I'll share with you my current focusing technique that has been by far the most successful and consistently reliable technique that I’ve ever used. I think everyone has a slightly different approach when it comes to achieving sharp focus and I’ve change my workflow for this multiple times over the years, but my current focusing technique is hands down the best approach I’ve tried. And one of the key components or steps in my focusing workflow relies on a slight modification to your camera's focus settings which I discuss in detail in this video. It’s super simple to make this settings adjustment and I highly encourage you to at least try it out and if you don’t like it then you can always change it back.
I hope you enjoy this week’s video and are able to get some helpful information out of it that you can apply to your next trip when you’re out looking for those perfectly sharp landscape photos! If you enjoyed this video, please consider giving it a thumbs up and let me know what you think in the comments below - I guarantee I'll get back to ya. Thanks for watching everyone! -Mark D.
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Thanks so much for watching everyone!!
Thank you for putting your time into this video with all of this rich advice and content for me to watch!!
@@mdcuber484 Glad to do it and thank you for checking out the video!
@@MarkDenneyPhoto because of you I switched to back button focusing and I’m now trying it out.
Back button focus is my preferred method of focus in landscape and esp. portrait, etc.
I've really enjoyed your channel for over a year now. I've grown tired of all the photography channels with the thumping dance music and the epic, sweeping drone videos. I like your low-key style and think you have tremendously valuable content. I agree back button focus is the way to go. Thank you!
You right no more drone videos presented .
I use front button focus. I find the rear buttons awkward, so I use the front fn button, just right of the lens. I can keep my middle finger on the fn button and trigger finger on the shutter.
Back button focus was the best change I made, but the hardest to get accustomed to. Focus is focus and shutter is shutter, I’ll never go back!
Same here! Wont change now
You're like the Bob Ross of photography. "Let's just take some pics of these happy little trees." Always passing on great knowledge.
Bob Ross is awesome , who needs cameras
The fact he showed us how to pack his gear and unpack his gear is enough for me to like this video.
I was experiencing exactly what you were saying where the focus was just a little bit off when I looked at the images on my computer monitor. This video was absolutely essential for me. I never thought about taking the focus activation off the shutter button. I tried it and absolutely love it. You have opened up a brand new experience for me. Thanks Mark.
I feel another advantage of using Back Button Focusing is you can trigger the shutter release faster (no delay to focus) and time it better (e.g. more precisely when a wave to breaking on a rock).
I find I can trigger the shutter faster using the shutter as auto focus because I'm already half way down and holding it there. Just a bit more depression and the shot is taken very quickly.
Like a beginner, I used to autofocus with the shutter button. I was not really happy to start to work with back focusing. But it changed everything, and now I'm mad at myself for not having used it earlier. It is not only important in portrait photography, but also in sports photography, as you can shoot while focusing, thus losing no time and missing no action.
Recently I've been talking my photography more seriously and I've been researching a lot via RUclips. I have to state - you've been the best, by far. Outstanding content, beautifully explained. Keep up the great work - and thanks 👍👍
A technique I learned from Mads Peter Iverson on my Sony A7 Riii with back button focus set, is move the focus square to the desired item you want in focus, press the AF-L button on the back of the camera. This zooms in close to the object. I can press it a 2nd time and zoom in even closer if desired. The focus square changes to a small "+" sign and I can move it precisely on what I want specifically the auto focus system to focus on then press the back button focus button (AE-L) to focus the lens. I typically have a 5 second timer set so I press the shutter button and take the shot. This technique was a game changer for me - no more slightly soft photos. I love the focus peaking for macro/intimate shots. Thank you Mark!
It was a revelation when I was shown back button focus and cannot think of doing it any other way now. Having done many tests, the auto does a better job than my eyes 99% of the time, but I always review at 100% to be sure. Thanks for sharing Mark.
Mark: "I turn my focus ring until most of the scene is red, marking focus area"
Me:
Nikon d850 😉
If you have a Canon DSLR get magic lantern, it adds focus peaking among tons of other features
@@Kevinmadefilms I'm Nikon D700 User :)
@@Henkepenkeberg Hi. Any idea if its available in other Nikon bodies?
i wish my D7200 had it also :(
Thanks for this clear explanation Mark. As a new “manual setting” photographer you hear many others talk about being a back-button focuser...but until now I didn’t appreciate the reason why.
The cool thing with fujis is, that you don't have to remove the autofocus from the shutter button, when using back button af. Just switch to "M" Focus mode, do everything as Mark explained here, as your back button af then still works. When you want your shutter to focus again, just use "S" or "C" focus mode again.
Thanks again Mark, for giving a clear indication of the value of back button focus. If I may elaborate to a more general principle, that of moving away from relying on the camera's default auto-settings in general. I started shooting in the late '70s, my first purchase being a used Nikon Ftn Photomic. It had a rudimentary metering system coupled with auto-aperture, but that was the extent of "automatic" functions. Working with an essentially all-mechanical camera helps the photographer realize that every exposure actually comprises several variables, several choices, to create an image: shutter speed, aperture, exposure value, "film speed" - aka ISO - plus focal point, not to mention focal length and ultimately, composition. Modifying any one of these will change the character of the image. In all but the latter two options, all these variables can be given over to the camera's auto-settings, often with acceptable results, but likely not optimum. For example, understanding how different aperture settings will change range of focus, along with other subtler changes, and choosing one specifically for a desired effect will add to one's creative potential. You need not only to know the tools at your disposal, but also to take your time and have a set reliable workflow: a detailed sample technique would be... 1. scout and locate your subject; establish general standpoint, with ideas toward final composition. 2. choose desired lens, eg., 35mm f2 for moderate-wide landscape with the intention to incorporate foreground subject-matter; handhold tighter dial-in of finished composition; set up tripod to place camera to that spot. 3. choose focal-point to ensure that at least the primary subject is sharp (back-button focus for auto-lens, or manually focus, preferably live-view with focus-peaking); It's generally preferable to focus wide open, so you'll know precisely where your focal-point lands. 4. choose aperture, depending upon desired effect, in this case f16 for wide focal-range (choice of focal-point and aperture are somewhat related, which is to say, how one chooses the two is connected. If for instance, in this composition you wished to highlight a flower in the near foreground, you'd choose f2 and focus directly on the flower, letting the background go soft; but instead, we wish a broad focal range - without focus-stacking - and you might know that f16 on this particular lens is safely sharp, which will give you good focus from near to distant... if you set your focal-point at or near its hyper-focal point. If that's too much, just focus a bit past the near-object, and rely on focus-peaking if possible). 5. establish proper exposure. A good method, with proper understanding, is to spot-meter a key area of your subject. This may require moving the focal-index on your monitor in live-view, or changing where you point your camera to do so. Again, using live-view, and histogram display, you can modify exposure-time with exposure compensation. Generally, more exposure without clipping highlights is better. Use back-button AE lock before recomposing. 6. ISO 100 (this is hardly a choice, almost by default, highest sensitivity for best resolution and least noise. Higher speed to stop action or to hand-hold would be an exception. But since we're on a tripod, with a placid subject, even a several-second exposure is fine). 7. with focal-point, aperture, and exposure-time now locked in, set final composition. I prefer live-view, since in my DSLR it locks the mirror up, reducing potential vibration, plus shows a good representation of the final composition and exposure settings. Make exposure with remote release and 2-sec. delay so camera is completely still. I frequently shoot Auto-Exposure-Compensation, ±1 stop, so I'll have three frames of varying density. I can either choose the best one for editing, or, more often than not combine them for an HDR image, which gives a bit more editing depth. ... I went to all this detail just to illustrate the point that you need to put your time in, first again to learn your tool's capabilities, and then, at the time of exposure, to methodically work through all the steps, choice-by-choice, to produce the specific desired effect. And then, on to editing, which is a whole other story. Cheers!
I'm still relatively new to cameras. My wife bought me a D3500 the tail end of November 2019.
Ironically enough, the very FIRST setting I altered was switching to back button focus. It is so much better in my humblest of newbie opinions.
I appreciate another fantastic video Mark. Take care and be safe.
Super helpful video on getting sharp focus. Thanks!
Always learn something on here, Mark.
BBF , AF then manual with focus peaking . After torturing myself for ages on hyperfocal distances, third way in etc, I find manual focus and peaking works great.
It took me awhile to get used to it, but now I will never go back. I like the separation of the focus and shutter actions.
Same! Takes a bit to get used to but now I can’t imagine it any other way!
You can leave AF on the shutter button on the X-T3. If you switch the camera to MF at the front, you can still use the AF-L button to spot-AF on demand. My favorite setting for landscapes. Whenever a moving subject appears, I just flip the AF mode to AF-C and the previously set tracking AF is immediately available.
The wonderful sounds of taking photos in nature.. (tripod legs sliding out, locking the ball head, rotating the aperture ring..) /s
I love it!
I'm a music recording producer & new to video/photo & currently learning as I go along 3 things I've been taught for basics is apertures, iso, & frame focusing angles etc I've noticed between my knowledge of music & video recording is not that much difference on the concept & it helped me alot including you guys tutorial. Your channel is awesome!!!! It opened a whole different world for me thank you 🙏💯💯💯👍
Thank you that was excellent Mark!👍🏼👍🏼
GREAT video. after thinking about it the perfect solution for ME is:
1. keep the AF on with half-way shutter
2. change the AF/MF function from control HOLD to Toggle
so in this way I 1/2 way press the shutter for AF (case of child portraits you don't have time to recalibrate), then click (and not hold) the AF/MF control button to pass to MF and then adjust the micro-focus with the ring.
with this setting I think I can make 99.9% of shots.
Thanks Mark, I am really glad I saw this video.
BTW on Sony a6600 :)
I switched to BBF a few years ago and haven’t looked back since. I focus the way I want and where I want and the camera takes the image. It works great for pretty much everything since you’re in control of when the camera focuses. Mine is setup so that when I hold the focus button it’s in continuous focusing mode. Track your subject, hold the focus button and shoot away. If it stops moving, let go of the button and shoot. It makes focus and recompose a breeze. I can’t imagine shooting any other way.
Just tried this...wow it does make a big difference to the overall quality of my images.
I find BBF most useful when coupled with continuous focus for moving subjects.
Great tips..with so much detailed info..Thanks..Subscribed!
I miss the old Canon AE slr viewfinder that had a very thin split line. It never failed me in getting a focus exactly on what I wanted, and quickly. It also didn't interfere with the looking at the scene/subject, and also was easy to see in all different lighting conditions.
Im just only 1:45 seconds into your video and had to pause to make this comment .......... Your getting Dang Professional looking with your Video production! Its actually like something made for TV
Thanks a million Richard! Glad you think so👍👍
I used this technique today and it worked a treat. Thanks
Excellent tip well presented with clarity and justification.,👍
This is so helpful to know there's an option for back focusing as I've missed so many shots when my camera refocuses while using the shutter button.
With the Fujifilm cameras, if you just turn your focus switch to M (manual focus) back button focus is already enabled by default without having to change any settings in the menu at all, unless s you want to move it from the AFL to the AEL button of course, which is easy to change- just hold down your display button for 3 seconds and the menu pops up where you can allocate a function to any button you like. :)
Single point linked to BBF total game changer for me when I moved to it 3 years ago. Especially true as I shoot a lot of minimal long exposure landscape images where it is all about pin-sharp subject focus.
not using back focus button could very well be the reason I find so many soft images from my years old archive. Wish I had known this then!
Hi Mark,
I really enjoy your videos, your voice & demeanor. I have a suggestion. I’m a retired optometrist & dabble in photography.
I’ve noticed in your videos that you appear to look through your viewfinder with your left eye, as do I, & close your right eye. This adds fatigue to facial muscles. Next time you look through the viewfinder, close that left eye & you’ll see that the camera body & your shooting hand naturally blocks the right eye.
So keep that right eye open & you’ll be less fatigued.
Keep up the great videos!
I put back button focus on the Q button and moved Q to the upper right button. It makes it MUCH easier to find. Great video.
Fairly new to photography and really new to your channel. Just like this video, lots of great, straight to the point & interesting information. Thank you and I looking forward to catching up on it all!
Great video and suggestion. I converted to BBF some time ago and was the best thing I ever did. Agree it was awkward at first but the keeper rate went way up. When time allows, that little tweak made manually, is magic.
Back Button Focus is hard to get used to for about the first 10 times using it especially if you been doing the focusing the traditional way for years! But hang in there before you know it...it will be second nature. Great video Mark.
Focus peaking is so handy.
This gonna be one of the most important lesson to learn, according to me, Thanks again to make this type of wonderful videos....... Thanks Allot.........
You’re the best - thanks so much for watching each week!
@@MarkDenneyPhoto I have a hunger inside me to learn something brand new, I wanted to go to USA,North Carolina there lives my sister for her IT job,but after clearing my board exams when I applied for Visa your country didn't approve that.......but that's okay I will visit your country when the pandamic will go forever.........and if I have a chance I will like to meet with you and touch your feet because you are my one and only teacher......in India we addressed teacher as "Guru" and touching there feet we students take there blessings as well we show our respect to them......... That's it...
I don't if I could be a good photographer or not But I enjoy to click photos.....I enjoy when I edited my photos it's like a meditation to me,it helps me to refresh my mind........ that's why I love photography specially landscape photography.........🙏 Thank you......🙏
There is also the issue of shutter or camera shake, although slight, when pressing the shutter button. I use BBF, AF, maybe recompose the shot and then with either a shutter release or more often the 2 second timer, I take the shot. I am starting to use AF then manual focus to make sure like you demonstrated today. This has helped me refine that process. Thanks, Mark!
Thanks a lot for your video Mark! On Fujifilm X-T3 I'm using AF-ON back button with AF-M switch in front. So I can use AF on half shutter button in AF-S mode, and back button AF in AF-M mode.
Hey Mark, you continue to be the most helpful landscape photographer I’ve found on RUclips. Thank you so much for explaining this. I honestly thought my camera body needed an upgrade because my images were having this exact problem. Appreciate you!
Really appreciate this Sam - thanks a million man!
Great info.. Will definitely check the back button focus technique.
Back button focus AND silent shutter and lenses without moving diaphragm on my Nikon Z6 2 is quite impressive.
Like that you said, you go out to practice your techniques, nice to hear that we are always practicing and learning.
Thank you. I have played around with it I guess I need to revisit that and try this again. Thank you very much for the info
Another way to back button focus temp is turn aff switch on front of camera to M you can then use BackButton to focus and shutter release to capture image. Switchback to C or S and back to standard operations 👍
Best thing I ever did on my Olympus em1m11. Works a treat with sports and bird photography.
Great information. Thank you.
your a great help mark, cheers,
This is useful, but BBF can be a pain when you are shooting run and gun. Rather than decoupling the shutter, you can assign AF to the back button on addition to the shutter. Then when you want to use it, switch to manual, BBF for the heavy lifting and fine tune with lens ring.
Superb tip about auto focus 👍🏼👍🏼
Excellent video that helps me plus the video was sharp and Beautiful.
One of my interest as a photography is motorsports and the back button focusing is invaluable. Either prefocus on one spot and wait for subject to move through that spot or continuously hold down the button as this will enable the camera to continue to focus whilst it is taking the picture. With the focusing on the shutter button the focus locks as you press the shutter and if it's a fast moving subject it may have moved out of focus by the time the shutter has taken the image. This is vital, I should imagine, for wildlife photographers also
Assigning focus to the back button has been the best tweak I've made on my D610. I got used to it very fast and will never go back to shutter button focus. BTW, you have the best photographic how to videos I've found on RUclips. Thanks for all your help.
Great video. I use BBF for years now and never looked back, it’s great. An extra feature is that when you change your shooting mode to ‘continuous ‘ you have it all in one button. Just a short press to lock for a single shot, but if needed you can switch to continuous focusing by holding the back button, without the need to change any setting on the camera. Quite handy when an animal suddenly appears.
Holding the thing steady.
Thanks a lot! It was extremely useful.
You can also pre focus same way you do and then switch the small lever at the front to M and focus is locked the way you left it, finally Rotate ring and adjust as needed.
I like your idea of using AF to get close to proper focus, and then the manually focusing to tweak (I'll have to try that the next time I'm out). One warning I will give is some older lenses won't let you do this (mainly talking about DSLR lenses, but some people adapt those on their ML cameras). Be careful not to damage the AF motor by doing this. Some lenses if you try to grab the focus ring while in AF mode, you will actaully move the AF motor when you turn the ring, and if the camera is trying to AF, you could damage the AF motor. Most newer lenses (like the mirrorless lenses) don't "couple" the AF motor directly to the focus ring so you can do this without damaging the AF motor, but on older lenses, this is not always the case.
Good tip on focusing, letting off the shutter and then re-focusing later. If you're going to use AF (which is perfectly fine) always make sure your camera has focused and locked focus first (make sure it confirms focus). At least that way 9/10 you will at least have (in focus) whatever the focus point was on. Now whether that was what you wanted to focus on or not is a different story. But this is also one reason I'm not a big fan of BBF for things like landscape. Sometimes you forget to press the BBF button to lock focus, and then the trigger to take the the shot. At least on most cameras, in AF mode, the camera has to lock focus first before the shot can be taken (not always, but on most it is this way when using the half-press method, and frankly, most cameras are shipped this way where focusing is done either with BBF/AF-ON or the shutter button). I've gotten burned a few times forgetting to press the AF-ON button when I had it set to BBF to a point where I don't use that feature anymore for photography of still subjects. Too much room for error, and you can forget if you're working fast.
Thanks that was very helpful with definitely have a go at finding back button focus on my xt4
For sure this tip is something every landscape or outdoor photographers, not to mention astrophotographers, should get used to. I've been shifting my workflow to that method about a year ago, and it totally changed my performance. That said, shifting to that method from the "half press - all in", does take some time to get used to, as this is something new you need to put your mind-focus to. But once you get used to it - the benefits are clear and sharp. Thank you.
If you have the focus on continuous then using back button focus permits single shot focusing and by holding down the back button it will focus continuously. Another big plus.
Great video Mark. Super simplified with practical demonstration at every step. Thank you so much for posting.
How wonderful to live near such a beautiful environment.
I agree that using a secondary button to auto focus is a good idea, but It seems to me that since one is contemplating the scene to begin with and not working as a street photographer, manual focus would eliminate the problems you describe.
Alternatively switch to Manuel focus and use the AFL button to back button focus. Work's a treat and you don't have to assign any button as it works automatically.
I changed button for focus to AEL at the back a long time ago and I could nerver go back again. It is so much easier.
Thanks for this!
Using Back button focus and putting it in manual keeps the half press functionality for single. Works like a charm :)
Another great video. Have used back button focus for some years, first on Nikon and now on Fuji XT cameras. On my X-T2 and X-T3 cameras I assigned the front button (FN2) to focus. It is easy to keep my middle finger on the FN2 button and use my first finger for the shutter. I have tried the AF-E and AF-L buttons as well, but they do not work as well as the FN2 button. And now with my thumb I can dial in SS with the rear command dial. Happy with the setup.
I found out about the back button focus a couple of years ago. Seemed like a good thing to do. I'm surprised this isn't the standard setting! What a difference it makes. Never changed it back. I have 2 camera's and both have that option set. Best thing I did to personalise!
Tysm ! Great pro tip ..
At 2:37 someone is walking in the woods....right centre.
Thank you very much for your videos, keep them coming. I was advised to use back button focusing by my Dad and I have never looked back and it makes for a much better work flow. It took a few trips to get used to this mind. The only thing I don't have on my camera is focus peaking but I have been practising zooming in on live view to 100% and checking to make sure everything is in focus. Even setting one of buttons to quickly zoom in to 100% when on live view has made this is so much easier.
Glad to hear you’re enjoying the videos Andy!
I enabled back button focusing on my Nikon D-7200. Great. Then I had to go back and remove the shutter button focusing. It was a separate step that I missed at first. It is still something I'm getting used to, but I like it already... just need a bit more time with it.
Changed the manual check focus setting in my XT3. Could be a game changer. Thanks Mark!
Thanks Mark, another great tip, will try it out, hope you guys are all safe and Healthy in these odd times.
I was unaware that I could reformat button functions. This is a quality piece of info
Thanks Mark. Great video. I've been using bbf on my d500 now for about 6 weeks and will not be going back to the default. I would recommend everyone to use it. I also now recheck focus like you, by using manual focus ring even though the d500 is awesome at focusing. Look forward to your next video. Oh and I hope your getting on well with your van convertion. Steve. UK
Thanks a million Steve - really appreciate it! The van is coming along, one project at a time👍
I absolutely love the organic tones in your video. My Z6 is on the way so time to start mastering that thing when it gets here. Big upgrade from a D3500. Thanks for the help!
I have been using back button focusing for awhile now. I find it more convenient for many different types of photos as my thumb is actually engaging the focus system while my shutter finger is not engaging the the shutter button until I am ready. I will have to try using focus peaking and the focus ring to fine tune the focus.
On Sony, this is called, Direct Manual Focus, and i use it 99% of the time, and it was a game changer for me!
OM-D EM-10: Menu→Custom→A→AEL/AFL and set mode 3 on S-AF or C-AF. The AEL/AFL button becomes the AF or AF start button.
in one video regarding the Focus stacking you mentioned that you used really high aperture, around F16, for each shot. I think that most of landscape lenses have best optical performance aroud F8. Why did you decide to go with such a high aperture, if you didnt need that long depth of field, because you blended more sharper pictures into one anyway? Btw perfect photography channel, learning so much here
Completely agree. I’ve been using back button focus for a few years.
Question - when using focus peaking, do you find the red gets in the way of what you’re trying to see? Do you typically just trust that the red googly lines are sharp spots? Or use it to confirm that your eye and LCD screen are correct when manually focussing?
I mainly use it to confirm focus
Good point!
Wow .. someone else finds those manuals indescrifrable. Good to know I’m not thee only one.
Big fan of back button auto focus for wildlife. Now I see you are correct - it’s important for landscape as well.
I'd think it's even more important for landscape. For wildlife you probably want your focus on the point you've selected, because you only recompose to keep that point on the animal. For landscape you might focus on one point to get the focus distance you want, and then recompose.
Great video and as usual awesome tips Mark.
The same principle, but just a different technique - engage the autofocus, refine it and then switch focus to manual. It will effectively do the same thing without necessity to jump into camera settings. I'm not sure if all the camera manufacturers put some sort of toggle button on either lens or camera, but it is definitely the case for Canon and it simplifies the workflow just a bit.
Thanks a million man!
For anyone wondering, Canon SL3 - Live View Mode > Menu > Shooting Settings > Page 7 > MF Focus Peaking
I've been using Back-Focus-Button for years on my Sonys. I also use the DMF function extensively with the Focus Peaking to assist.
Very helpful and clear tutorial on using back button focusing.
i remember as a kid my grandad had me running through the woods with a burning news paper so he could get a smoggy woodland photo ..god youd get locked up nowa days
🤣🤣
Start a forest fire grandson, as I rarely get to shoot photos of that!
@@AllenFreemanMediaGuru haha i know . it was an old trick to get the sun bursts through the trees it worked really well . really atmospheric . the misty smoke catches the sun beaming between the tree trunks really good . try it haha ( its a bit like a lazer light in a smokey room the affects are more intense )
I'm just getting into outdoor landscape photography and your content and photographs are amazing! Also want to say your tutorials are fantastic for me as a ture noobie, great tip in this video!!!
Thanks Mark
Thanks for this video. I’m new at digital photography. This is a reoccurring prob I have had. Great channel. I too like the low key, no music. To the point instructions. Great job.