What a great video, thanks so much for explaining all parts of the camera. I just bought one the other day in this exact model for only $5, I feel extremely lucky to found it at such a steal!
The significant difference between the FT2 and FT3 was that the FT3 used the then-newly adopted AI metering system, hardly the trivial difference suggested in the video. The FT3 can use any Nikkor lens from the first in 1959 up to the "G" lenses introduced a few years ago, one the relatively few Nikon cameras which can do that. The FT2 takes Nikkor lenses from 1959 up through about 1980, when Nikon stopped putting the noon-AI metering "ears" on its new lenses. [A bought a new FT2 in 1976 and a like-new FT3 last year. Both are terrific cameras. Simple to use; easy & cheap to service.
I was just given a pristine black F2 and black Nikkormat EL. The Nikkormat is a cool little camera with aperture priority but it is nuts where the battery is placed inside the shutter box.
Hi David, may I know which flashes I can use for this camera. Because I have this camera and a new GODOX flash. It cannot fit in the hot shoe. Is there maybe a way that I can use it?
Any standard flash should work. Since this needs a manual flash you can buy either a new and basic (cheap) flash or a used Vivtar or similar from the 70s or 80s and be just fine.
Hi,David . I have a Nikomat FT2. When I hold it from the opening side of the film door it compresses a little and has play. It becomes really annoying. Would it be because of the light seals not applied in the small hollow rails above&below the shutter. Could you suggest a solution
Hmm. That's curious. I would be surprised if the light seals are to blame. I think it's more likely that the rear door is slightly bowed inward. Does the back of the camera nest evenly when you're not holding it?
Mine has a slight dent on the door retainer side. It causes the locking lugs to bump aand stop the door from closing. I have to press the door like I'm shorting it toward the hinges, gently. Hope that helps
I have one of these, they're great. Nice job. The FT2 doesn't use LR44 alkaline batteries but rather a silver oxide S76 battery. I'm not positive but I think that the Nikkormat FTN used a mercury battery that is no longer available. Have that problem with my Nikon FTN which uses two mercury cells.
You're correct about the FTn. There's a modern battery that's the same size as the old mercury batteries. The FTn can take them, but the camera's meter won't function properly due to the voltage difference. Canon F-1 cameras and, I think, some Minolta SRT models have this issue, too. To compensate, I use the sunny 1 rule and compensate with ISO adjustment until the meter reading is correct.
You may use for your FTN currently available zinc-air cells of type PR44 or PR675. They give 1,35V which is about the same as voltage of original mercury cells.
are you sure about the FT2 not using LR44 batteries? I have 2 of them,the Nikkormat FT2 and the Nikomat FT2 (the Japanese domestic market version) and they both came with these batteries fitted. and yes..the FTN used the mercury battery.
The manual says silver oxide batteries. My understanding is that LR44 (alkaline) batteries will work, but the voltage decreases steadily over time and hence the accuracy of the meter. Silver oxide batteries maintain a very steady voltage over their life and then fail rather suddenly. The cameras made back then didn't have voltage regulators.
I have a F2a and an Ftn as backup. Having a back up comes in handy when you run out of film, need a different lens quick, or even a different ISO. Rarely, if ever, had I needed a back up for failure. I mean, they’re Nikons, right? Come on, now! (Why, yes, I did shoot my avatar.)
tonbonthemon That sounds like a mechanical failure in your camera. Either something in the camera broke, something jammed, or the lubricating oils were very thick and gummy. The mirror should have popped back down when you changed to a different shutter speed.
Compared to a spot meter, yes, that would b much more accurate. Minolta, Pentax, and other very good meters would definitely be more accurate. Compared to a standard hand-held scene meter, I would expect the camera to do better.
With stop-down metering the FE can use NAI lenses, yes. When I made this video I had not gotten my hands on an FE. My much more recent video about the FE may clarify that point.
What a great video, thanks so much for explaining all parts of the camera. I just bought one the other day in this exact model for only $5, I feel extremely lucky to found it at such a steal!
Holy cow that's a good deal. The FT2 is a fantastic camera. I wish I could find one for that price.
A steal? No jokeI
Such an in depth video, thank you for the effort!
Thank you!
The significant difference between the FT2 and FT3 was that the FT3 used the then-newly adopted AI metering system, hardly the trivial difference suggested in the video. The FT3 can use any Nikkor lens from the first in 1959 up to the "G" lenses introduced a few years ago, one the relatively few Nikon cameras which can do that. The FT2 takes Nikkor lenses from 1959 up through about 1980, when Nikon stopped putting the noon-AI metering "ears" on its new lenses. [A bought a new FT2 in 1976 and a like-new FT3 last year. Both are terrific cameras. Simple to use; easy & cheap to service.
Did I say trivial? I don't recall saying trivial. But it's been a few years since I made this.
I was just given a pristine black F2 and black Nikkormat EL. The Nikkormat is a cool little camera with aperture priority but it is nuts where the battery is placed inside the shutter box.
Nice! That's an awesome gift.
Hi David, may I know which flashes I can use for this camera. Because I have this camera and a new GODOX flash. It cannot fit in the hot shoe. Is there maybe a way that I can use it?
Any standard flash should work. Since this needs a manual flash you can buy either a new and basic (cheap) flash or a used Vivtar or similar from the 70s or 80s and be just fine.
@@DavidHancock tqsm for the help
Hi,David . I have a Nikomat FT2. When I hold it from the opening side of the film door it compresses a little and has play. It becomes really annoying. Would it be because of the light seals not applied in the small hollow rails above&below the shutter.
Could you suggest a solution
Hmm. That's curious. I would be surprised if the light seals are to blame. I think it's more likely that the rear door is slightly bowed inward. Does the back of the camera nest evenly when you're not holding it?
@@DavidHancock Yes,it does seem even on the surface when the eyepiece is not in contact with it
@@maazahmed4121 I'd try new light seals first and see if that helps. I have a video on how to do that work cotton yarn.
Mine has a slight dent on the door retainer side. It causes the locking lugs to bump aand stop the door from closing. I have to press the door like I'm shorting it toward the hinges, gently. Hope that helps
Wow thats is just Gorgeous..
What is the function of the right button nekst to the pentaprism ?
The one on top of the camera body or on the side? On top of the camera, it's the depth of field preview. On the side, it's the mirror lock up.
I have one of these, they're great. Nice job.
The FT2 doesn't use LR44 alkaline batteries but rather a silver oxide S76 battery.
I'm not positive but I think that the Nikkormat FTN used a mercury battery that is no longer available. Have that problem with my Nikon FTN which uses two mercury cells.
You're correct about the FTn. There's a modern battery that's the same size as the old mercury batteries. The FTn can take them, but the camera's meter won't function properly due to the voltage difference. Canon F-1 cameras and, I think, some Minolta SRT models have this issue, too. To compensate, I use the sunny 1 rule and compensate with ISO adjustment until the meter reading is correct.
You may use for your FTN currently available zinc-air cells of type PR44 or PR675. They give 1,35V which is about the same as voltage of original mercury cells.
are you sure about the FT2 not using LR44 batteries? I have 2 of them,the Nikkormat FT2 and the Nikomat FT2 (the Japanese domestic market version) and they both came with these batteries fitted. and yes..the FTN used the mercury battery.
The manual says silver oxide batteries. My understanding is that LR44 (alkaline) batteries will work, but the voltage decreases steadily over time and hence the accuracy of the meter. Silver oxide batteries maintain a very steady voltage over their life and then fail rather suddenly. The cameras made back then didn't have voltage regulators.
Will keep an eye on mine then and see how they go..if it does cause any issues will get the silver oxide instead.
what kind of lens can i mount on this?
+Matt Shirakawa Any Nikon Pre-AI lens will work, Nikon or third-party. The lens needs to have the metal nose-like bit on the aperture ring.
+David Hancock thanks:)
This is wonderful thanks
Thank you, too!
I have a F2a and an Ftn as backup. Having a back up comes in handy when you run out of film, need a different lens quick, or even a different ISO. Rarely, if ever, had I needed a back up for failure. I mean, they’re Nikons, right? Come on, now! (Why, yes, I did shoot my avatar.)
Thank you! And yes, both this and the F2A are very reliable cameras.
Self-timer + bulb = locked mirror forever, as far as I know. It happened with a camera of mine.
tonbonthemon That sounds like a mechanical failure in your camera. Either something in the camera broke, something jammed, or the lubricating oils were very thick and gummy. The mirror should have popped back down when you changed to a different shutter speed.
Bummer!
That the exposure should be more accurate than a handheld light meter, I do not agree. I use a handheld spot-meter that is by far more accurate.
Compared to a spot meter, yes, that would b much more accurate. Minolta, Pentax, and other very good meters would definitely be more accurate. Compared to a standard hand-held scene meter, I would expect the camera to do better.
The FE takes non ai lenses. I know, I have an Ft2 and an FE.
With stop-down metering the FE can use NAI lenses, yes. When I made this video I had not gotten my hands on an FE. My much more recent video about the FE may clarify that point.