Man.... I've got a 2005 Ford 500 Limited in incredible condition. Has the Duratec DOHC V-6 engine. The car is like new. Everywhere. New tires. Interior is immaculate. All the electronics work perfect. I've gotta take the upper intake off and both valve covers. Replace the gaskets. Worth the work. Just such a pain. Yeah man... that engine is toast. Glad you found another one for it.
Great video, helped me a TON! I am doing the same swap on a 2002 Escape with a 2002 Taurus engine. Had no idea about the intermediate shaft bolting to the engine, thank you!!
Listed below are the basic steps to removing an engine. Obviously each person will take their own steps in removing an engine depending on previous experience and personal judgment. Some important tips that will help for first timers are as follows. When removing the roll pin from the shift linkage it is important to use an 8mm drift or an 8mm bolt. Airhammers also work really well if airtools are available. Another difficult aspect of the swap can include breaking the axle nuts. Make sure the socket being used is an impact socket (regular sockets can be used, however don’t be surprised if one is broken) and use plenty of leverage. Obviously the car’s wheels must be on the ground with the emergency brake set so the car is stationary. Other tips will be added accordingly as I’m sure I haven’t covered everything. Good luck! Beginning the Swap: 1. Secure the hood as open as possible. 2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then positive terminal. Remove the battery. 3. Remove the strut brace. (for cars that have one) 4. Disconnect the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box and battery positive terminal. 5. Remove the battery and battery base. 6. Disconnect the connectors from the ECM/PCM. 7. Disconnect the main wire harnessconnector. 8. Remove the air intake duct and air cleaner housing. Remove the resonator and intake air duct. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector. (OBD1 motors and older will not have the IAT sensor. 9. Disconnect the engine wire harnessconnector on the left side of the engine compartment. 10. Relieve fuel pressure. 11. Remove the (EVAP) control canister hose and fuel feed hose. 12. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose, fuel return hose and vacuum hose. 13. Remove the throttle cable and loosening the locknut, then slip the cable end out of the accelerator linkage. *NOTE: Take care not to bend the cable when removing it. Always replace any kinked cable with a new one. 14. Disconnect the connectors from the PCM. 15. Remove the grommet and wireharness clamps, then pull out the ECM/PCM connectors. 16. Remove the mounting bolt and lock bolt, then remove the power steeringpump belt and pump. 17. Loosen the idler pulley center nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the airconditioning compressor belt. 18. Remove the transmission ground cable and hose clamp. 19. Remove the clutch slave cylinder and line/hose assembly (M/T). 20. Remove the shift cable (CVT). 21. Disconnect the power steeringpressure switch connector, and remove the wire harness clamp. 22. Remove the radiator cap. (If car is hot, use caution) 23. Raise the hoist to full height. 24. Remove the front tires/wheels andsplash shield. 25. Drain the engine coolant. Loosen the drain plug in the radiator. 26. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug using a new washer. 27. Drain the engine oil. Reinstall the drain bolt using a new washer. 28. Remove the shift rod and extension rod, commonly referred to as the shift linkage. 29. Remove the AC Compressor. 30. Remove the catalytic converter/exhaust pipe. 31. Remove the damper forks. 32. Disconnect the suspension lower arm ball joints. 33. Remove the driveshafts. 34. Lower the hoist. 35. Remove the upper and lowerradiator hoses and heater hoses. 36. Attach the chain hoist to the engine. 37. Remove the left and right front mount and bracket. 38. Remove the rear mount bracket. 39. Remove the upper bracket. 40. Remove the transmission mountbracket, then remove the transmission mount. 41. Check that the engine/transmission is completely free of vacuum hoses, fuel and coolant hoses and electrical wiring. 42. Slowly raise the engine approximately 150mm. Check once again that all hoses and wires are disconnected from the engine/transmission. 43. Raise the engine all the way, and remove it from the car. That should have your motor out from the bay. Again, take your time with it and make sure everything is unplugged and drained before you remove it. It will make everything cleaner and smoother. Good Luck!
BTW.... these engines have a tendency to get loose cam shaft retainers. Once they do if not noticed it'll blow that cam right off. That happens it's toast. Also, the wiring harness where it presses on the low pressure A.C line is another design flaw. Over time the vibrations can wear through the harness and wire insulation. Good idea to move it before that happens.
pfun41, I have read all of the others posts to you and it seems I must be the only one having this problem. I have a 2001 Escape V-6 automatic all wheel drive. Followed your video for removing engine part 1, and the part 2 started with the engine removed already. I removed the 6 studs on the rear exhaust and the 2 nuts holding the carrier bearing for the front axle and broke it loose from the engine. I have removed all of the torque convertor to flex plate nuts, total of 4 and all of the engine to transmission bolts and one stud. I have checked for hidden bolts that I might have missed and the motor will separate about 1/4" on the firewall side and 1/2" on the front side My problem is the motor will not separate from the transmission. It seems the motor block has a lug sticking out on the firewall side that is sitting down in a pocket between the transmission and the trans axle assembly preventing the motor from sliding forward and out of the torque convertor. I would sure appreciate some advise on how you got the block to separate to remove it. I have tried being slow and aligned the block and have shook the hell out of it and still will not move forward enough to clear the bolts on the convertor. Thank you young man, enjoyed your video's and hope to save some money on this swap when I get the motor out.
+Buff Ritchie You have a load leveler I presume? Attatch one end to the right rear of the engine, attach the other to the front left. This way you can use the load leveler to pivot the engine around the crank. Rotate it forward (towards you) and that should lift the lug out of this pocket.
awesome video. I see the torque converter in the transmission bell housing. Missing the step on separating the engine from the tranny torque converter.
Help! I Mazda Tribute 2005 release 3.0. The problem with the PCM, made in different places diagnostics can not find the problem, insert a new PCM machine factory. 2-3 working days, and again burns PCM and combustion noise issues like yours, electricians, too, can not find the cause. advise.
I drove my Taurus 3.0 DOHC overheating/dying/overheating for 15 miles just to get it home. Thought I had destroyed. The next day it started right up. I fixed the coolant leak and changed the oil. That was 20,000 miles ago.
This is why I will never own a front wheel drive car. They are such a headache and aren't worth it. I applaud all the work and energy you put into this though
I'm from the UK but I spent some time working in the US and I borrowed my friends car which was this exact model. One day while driving it started knocking just like this so I pulled over and got it towed. Next day I spoke to the mechanic and he said he started it, it knocked for a while then went away. It ran perfect for the rest of the time I had it and for about a year after that until the owner sold it.
Great video! I wanted to know how did you remove the rear manifold/cat. I have a broken stud causing an exhaust leak. I want to repair but everything i've read says to take off the head to get the stud out. Thanks, Jose
It depends how the stud is broken. If you can get two nuts threaded onto it or can weld a nut to it you may be able to remove it in place. Otherwise you'll have to drill it out which would be difficult at best in the car. To get the Rear manifold out you have to unbolt the brace for the passenger axle shaft bearing and maybe the alternator, that should gain enough clearance to get it out.
Pfun41 thanks so much for the response. I haven't tried yet because of the bitter cold and snow here in New Jersey. I will have a better idea once i have the cat out. I will update you when done. By the way what you did with that escape was great. I am a do it yourself guy with some knowledge! Thanks again for the knowledge!
Lachiepower0402 -Intake -battery and tray -radiator fans -radiator -thermostat -exhaust manifolds That's about all that has to be removed, though there's plenty of stuff that has to be unbolted.
Wow, great video and with no help either !! My motor made the same sound, pretty sure they said bearings too. Hopefully picking it up tomorrow. Bought a used motor for $800 with 78,000 miles on it !! ( my motor had 179k )
hello there I am in the middle of doing the same swap like in your video problem I have is my engine seized so chances of me getting to the torque converter is probably shot right I most likely will have to pull both motor and tranny correct and another question would be there is only the one mount on top of motor and transmission bolts and can the carrier bearing bolts that hold the motor in I am doing a 03 ford escape 3 0 and putting in a 03 duratec engine from a 03 ford taurus both v6
I’m about 9 years too late but if you were to pull the valve covers off and replace the cam caps and new bolts that’ll fix that rattle, that is unless the tappet has already been shot out. First gen 3.0l common problem hope this helps someone
That sounds backwards. Newer should be coil on plug if it has it. Most manufacturers went COP to get rid of plug wires and improve reliability and lower maintenance costs.
Im having an issue i have a 2002 ford escape 3.0 duratec engine that had the same issue but i threw a bearing rod and piston. So now my engine is seized. I bought a used Mazda AJ motor but cant get old wngine out of the escape. Seems to be stuck onto flywheel and torque converter. ANYONE IDEAS?
***** thank you sir i thought as much just wasnt sure now im ready to pull this sucker out and finish it this week by wednesday and still have some vacation left..
I have a question that I hope that you can help me with. I have a 2007 ford escape with the 2.3 engine, auto transmission and ac. The Idler pulley for the accessory belt has sheered its' bolt into its' mounting point. The bolt is broken in half, so it must be tapped out in order to replace the idler pulley. My question is this, is the idler pulley mounted into the block of this engine or is it mounted onto the timing chain cover? If it is mounted into the block, how would you go about getting to the broken bolt? Is there a way to lower the engine in order to access it or do I have to remove the engine? If it's mounted to the timing chain cover, would I be able to remove the timing chain cover while in the car? Thanks!
Dale Martin On the V6 it is mounted to the timing cover. I believe it can be removed with the engine in place but it's a PITA.The oil pan must also be removed.
Thumbs Up!!! Great video. I made the swap, got everything hooked back up, hit the starter and the starter just spun. I was hoping it was just the bendix, but when i pulled the starter the bendix was working just fine. Did some checking and realized I failed to put the correct flywheel back on. The Taurus flywheel is a smaller diameter. Is there a workaround, or am I stuck pulling the motor again? I would love to be able to mount the starter elsewhere, or change the starter gear?? Any suggestions?
I happen to have a busted 02 Mazda tribute engine, and a good 06 taurus engine. What would be the main differences when swapping them, besides the fit? I know you were saying about the water pump. Is that it? It would help a lot to know
Wondering if you are able to share the details of separating the transmission from the engine. The tight spaces seem daunting. I am working on replacing a transmission on a 2005 Mazda Tribute. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.
Once you have everything unbolted it should come apart fairly easily, just find a strong area where you can use a pry bar to start prying them apart, once the gap is big enough you can use the pry bar to finish separating them all the way around.
pfun41 I am getting ready to remove the engine from a Mazda tribute 3.0 and I would like to know if I need to completely remove the tranfercase bracket or just unbolt it from the engine block.
I have an 07 mercury mariner with a 4 cylinder. Is it possible to take out the engine from the top like you did? Because I'm having trouble separating it from the transmission enough to clear the flywheel.
Now that 2005 Escapes are becoming more plentiful, any idea on what engines will drop in as easily as the 2003 Taurus versions? Will the V6 from a 2005 Taurus drop into a 2005 Escape?
I got a 2004 Sable LS and they swap the engine out in put in a 2005 Ford Taurus couple things not put together it's there going to be a problem getting some one to put it together
Those vehicles are pretty much identical underneath the badging, and there's no difference between the years IIRC. There shouldn't be any trouble getting it back together.
pfun41I have 2004 mazda tribute 3.0, do you remember how many tanny bolts you have to remove and do you have to remove all of the motor mounts or just the one on the top left of engine? thanks
I want to see someone do either a SHO taurus swap with yamaha motor into a 1st gen escape, or a st focus hatch swap into 1st gen. Cant find anyone thats done it yet.....
colorado mile high prepper With relatively small hands, an assortment of extensions and socket adapters, and alot of sweat and pain. To get to the torque converter bolts you need to pull a small rubber dust cover off of the bottom of the transmission where it meets the engine. Behind it there is an open space that will allow access to the flexplate. You have to rotate the engine and line each torque converter bolt with the access hole to remove them one by one. The Bolts holding the flexplate to the engine can only be accessed with the engine removed.
hey quick ? i got a another engine today yeah again for ford escape 2002 hey my truck has a oil cooler where the oil filter screws on but today the engine they sent me doesnt have said cooler on the engine now where do my lines go that cant connect now
Older oil coolers just screwed on in place of an oil filter and a shorter filter screwed onto them. You can remove it with an allen key and swap it over. If its one of those bolted on castings you can swap the whole casting. Worst case scenario use a double barb to connect the two coolant lines together.
I had the same on an older Cadillac. It turned out to be a sensor. Take it to advanced Auto or any other auto parts store and borrow a scanner to see what codes have been triggered.
Hello guys I have a question for you man I need help please. Can I replaced ford escape ingine with a freestyle engine? Please let know if it's going to work..
I can't find anything on doing something similar for an 07 Escape. Trying to help out a friend, his engine is knocking, probably a spun bearing. Anyone know whether an 07 Taurus engine would work or why one might not?
Its one of those swaps only a handful of people have done so documentation is slim to none. Should be the same but The water pump drive varied alot. Later models did away with the tensioner arm and used s stretch belt. As long as the valve covers and water pump styles look the same it should fit without too much trouble.
Change out the PCV valve on these engines before 100K miles. A failed PCV valve will cause the engine to consume oil at an extreme rate.....and the fact that the oil level sensor is for sh*t in these motors, you won't know it until it's too late.
Hey everyone, I got an 04 ford escape 3.0 v6 (duratec). I've been considering replacing the stock exhaust manifold with a shorty header along with a few other things. I live in California so alot of the performance parts I've been looking at are not "street legal" here, which is a major setback for me. I heard that JBA has some headers that pass the smog laws here in California, but I'm having a hard time finding the correct one for the 3.0 duratec engine. I'm still a novice at auto mechanics and could really use some knowledge, what should I do? Thanks.
OhYoJo Your options depend on what they look for. If all they do is a sniffer in the tailpipe you can go with headers and a single cat after the Y, however you will likely fail a visual inspection. Otherwise the only option for real performance is a CARB certified header. Unless you get a header and make it look like stock manifolds or something, but that's a whole nother can of worms... And you didn't get that idea from me. If I were to do it I'd go with headers, a Flowmaster scavenger series Y and custom Y pipe with a 3 way cat after the Y. That would get you good performance and a clean tailpipe. Of course I live in a state without any emissions testing.
Its in good shape but the engine???? The engine is the live of the car buddy if the engine is shit the car is a piece of shit. I just don't understand by what you mean the car is in good shape but it don't run??
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Man.... I've got a 2005 Ford 500 Limited in incredible condition. Has the Duratec DOHC V-6 engine. The car is like new. Everywhere. New tires. Interior is immaculate. All the electronics work perfect. I've gotta take the upper intake off and both valve covers. Replace the gaskets. Worth the work. Just such a pain. Yeah man... that engine is toast. Glad you found another one for it.
You Sir, are my personal hero! Great vid and an even better job done!
Great video, helped me a TON! I am doing the same swap on a 2002 Escape with a 2002 Taurus engine. Had no idea about the intermediate shaft bolting to the engine, thank you!!
Listed below are the basic steps to removing an engine. Obviously each person will take their own steps in removing an engine depending on previous experience and personal judgment. Some important tips that will help for first timers are as follows. When removing the roll pin from the shift linkage it is important to use an 8mm drift or an 8mm bolt. Airhammers also work really well if airtools are available. Another difficult aspect of the swap can include breaking the axle nuts. Make sure the socket being used is an impact socket (regular sockets can be used, however don’t be surprised if one is broken) and use plenty of leverage. Obviously the car’s wheels must be on the ground with the emergency brake set so the car is stationary. Other tips will be added accordingly as I’m sure I haven’t covered everything. Good luck!
Beginning the Swap:
1. Secure the hood as open as possible.
2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then positive terminal. Remove the battery.
3. Remove the strut brace. (for cars that have one)
4. Disconnect the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box and battery positive terminal.
5. Remove the battery and battery base.
6. Disconnect the connectors from the ECM/PCM.
7. Disconnect the main wire harnessconnector.
8. Remove the air intake duct and air cleaner housing. Remove the resonator and intake air duct. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector. (OBD1 motors and older will not have the IAT sensor.
9. Disconnect the engine wire harnessconnector on the left side of the engine compartment.
10. Relieve fuel pressure.
11. Remove the (EVAP) control canister hose and fuel feed hose.
12. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose, fuel return hose and vacuum hose.
13. Remove the throttle cable and loosening the locknut, then slip the cable end out of the accelerator linkage.
*NOTE: Take care not to bend the cable when removing it. Always replace any kinked cable with a new one.
14. Disconnect the connectors from the PCM.
15. Remove the grommet and wireharness clamps, then pull out the ECM/PCM connectors.
16. Remove the mounting bolt and lock bolt, then remove the power steeringpump belt and pump.
17. Loosen the idler pulley center nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the airconditioning compressor belt.
18. Remove the transmission ground cable and hose clamp.
19. Remove the clutch slave cylinder and line/hose assembly (M/T).
20. Remove the shift cable (CVT).
21. Disconnect the power steeringpressure switch connector, and remove the wire harness clamp.
22. Remove the radiator cap. (If car is hot, use caution)
23. Raise the hoist to full height.
24. Remove the front tires/wheels andsplash shield.
25. Drain the engine coolant. Loosen the drain plug in the radiator.
26. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug using a new washer.
27. Drain the engine oil. Reinstall the drain bolt using a new washer.
28. Remove the shift rod and extension rod, commonly referred to as the shift linkage.
29. Remove the AC Compressor.
30. Remove the catalytic converter/exhaust pipe.
31. Remove the damper forks.
32. Disconnect the suspension lower arm ball joints.
33. Remove the driveshafts.
34. Lower the hoist.
35. Remove the upper and lowerradiator hoses and heater hoses.
36. Attach the chain hoist to the engine.
37. Remove the left and right front mount and bracket.
38. Remove the rear mount bracket.
39. Remove the upper bracket.
40. Remove the transmission mountbracket, then remove the transmission mount.
41. Check that the engine/transmission is completely free of vacuum hoses, fuel and coolant hoses and electrical wiring.
42. Slowly raise the engine approximately 150mm. Check once again that all hoses and wires are disconnected from the engine/transmission.
43. Raise the engine all the way, and remove it from the car.
That should have your motor out from the bay. Again, take your time with it and make sure everything is unplugged and drained before you remove it. It will make everything cleaner and smoother. Good Luck!
BTW.... these engines have a tendency to get loose cam shaft retainers. Once they do if not noticed it'll blow that cam right off. That happens it's toast. Also, the wiring harness where it presses on the low pressure A.C line is another design flaw. Over time the vibrations can wear through the harness and wire insulation. Good idea to move it before that happens.
pfun41, I have read all of the others posts to you and it seems I must be the only one having this problem. I have a 2001 Escape V-6 automatic all wheel drive. Followed your video for removing engine part 1, and the part 2 started with the engine removed already. I removed the 6 studs on the rear exhaust and the 2 nuts holding the carrier bearing for the front axle and broke it loose from the engine. I have removed all of the torque convertor to flex plate nuts, total of 4 and all of the engine to transmission bolts and one stud. I have checked for hidden bolts that I might have missed and the motor will separate about 1/4" on the firewall side and 1/2" on the front side My problem is the motor will not separate from the transmission. It seems the motor block has a lug sticking out on the firewall side that is sitting down in a pocket between the transmission and the trans axle assembly preventing the motor from sliding forward and out of the torque convertor. I would sure appreciate some advise on how you got the block to separate to remove it. I have tried being slow and aligned the block and have shook the hell out of it and still will not move forward enough to clear the bolts on the convertor. Thank you young man, enjoyed your video's and hope to save some money on this swap when I get the motor out.
+Buff Ritchie You have a load leveler I presume? Attatch one end to the right rear of the engine, attach the other to the front left. This way you can use the load leveler to pivot the engine around the crank. Rotate it forward (towards you) and that should lift the lug out of this pocket.
That sounds like one hell of a rod knock
awesome video. I see the torque converter in the transmission bell housing. Missing the step on separating the engine from the tranny torque converter.
That part happened in the dark.
18:30 the impact gun sounds like a blaster rifle from star wars
Lol it did !!😁😁
Spun bearing for sure. Our 2001 Taurus is a paperweight from this only 130K miles.
Help! I Mazda Tribute 2005 release 3.0. The problem with the PCM, made in different places diagnostics can not find the problem, insert a new PCM machine factory. 2-3 working days, and again burns PCM and combustion noise issues like yours, electricians, too, can not find the cause. advise.
Great video, great tutorial, great knowledge, great teaching. Thank you
ford 3.0 engines are amazing...drove my taurus without oil for a while and never had problem...
I drove my Taurus 3.0 DOHC overheating/dying/overheating for 15 miles just to get it home. Thought I had destroyed. The next day it started right up. I fixed the coolant leak and changed the oil. That was 20,000 miles ago.
Beautiful sounding Diesel motor I can’t believe you took it out
That's not diesel?
This is why I will never own a front wheel drive car. They are such a headache and aren't worth it. I applaud all the work and energy you put into this though
I want to put these engines into a rear wheel drive car, like a Mk1 Cortina or Ford Zephyr.
+Chris Henniker then do it.
Thanks this vid helped me out a lot with swap I'm doing on a 05 escape.
How did that go. Going to do a coyote swap on my 2006 Xscape
Did you check the timing chain tensioners??? Miss plus knock says timing chain tensioners there are 2
Being run out of oil + knock says everything in the engine is shot.
ruclips.net/video/0HzsMXz7OUM/видео.html
I'm from the UK but I spent some time working in the US and I borrowed my friends car which was this exact model.
One day while driving it started knocking just like this so I pulled over and got it towed. Next day I spoke to the mechanic and he said he started it, it knocked for a while then went away.
It ran perfect for the rest of the time I had it and for about a year after that until the owner sold it.
Nice video bud, a little music during the time lapse wouldn't hurt though! :P lol
That engine sounds brand new lol
I had to put a used motor in my ford escape now the speedometer isnt working and the od light is blinking what do I do
That noise is sammy davis junior running around in the engine.
That v6 sounded kind of like a small steam engine.
Great video! I wanted to know how did you remove the rear manifold/cat. I have a broken stud causing an exhaust leak. I want to repair but everything i've read says to take off the head to get the stud out.
Thanks, Jose
It depends how the stud is broken. If you can get two nuts threaded onto it or can weld a nut to it you may be able to remove it in place. Otherwise you'll have to drill it out which would be difficult at best in the car. To get the Rear manifold out you have to unbolt the brace for the passenger axle shaft bearing and maybe the alternator, that should gain enough clearance to get it out.
Pfun41 thanks so much for the response. I haven't tried yet because of the bitter cold and snow here in New Jersey. I will have a better idea once i have the cat out. I will update you when done. By the way what you did with that escape was great. I am a do it yourself guy with some knowledge! Thanks again for the knowledge!
Would you be able to provide a list of what you removed, to be able to remove the engine please, as I am considering swapping my engine. Thank you
Lachiepower0402 -Intake
-battery and tray
-radiator fans
-radiator
-thermostat
-exhaust manifolds
That's about all that has to be removed, though there's plenty of stuff that has to be unbolted.
Wow, great video and with no help either !! My motor made the same sound, pretty sure they said bearings too. Hopefully picking it up tomorrow. Bought a used motor for $800 with 78,000 miles on it !! ( my motor had 179k )
I know this is 5 years old but how did the new motor hold up?
My wifes 2008 escape 2.3 engine is dead. Is the swap any easier due to its smaller size? What other engines area good swap?
Doubt it. swapping to a different engine altogether is much more involved.
hello there I am in the middle of doing the same swap like in your video problem I have is my engine seized so chances of me getting to the torque converter is probably shot right I most likely will have to pull both motor and tranny correct and another question would be there is only the one mount on top of motor and transmission bolts and can the carrier bearing bolts that hold the motor in I am doing a 03 ford escape 3 0 and putting in a 03 duratec engine from a 03 ford taurus both v6
I’m about 9 years too late but if you were to pull the valve covers off and replace the cam caps and new bolts that’ll fix that rattle, that is unless the tappet has already been shot out. First gen 3.0l common problem hope this helps someone
ford is pulling my fusion engine on warranty to do some gaskets ,i hope they don't fuck anything up in the process.
Our 2000 Taurus has coil on plug, but our 2002 Ford Taurus has spark plug wires. When and why do you think Ford made this change?
That sounds backwards. Newer should be coil on plug if it has it. Most manufacturers went COP to get rid of plug wires and improve reliability and lower maintenance costs.
Im having an issue i have a 2002 ford escape 3.0 duratec engine that had the same issue but i threw a bearing rod and piston. So now my engine is seized. I bought a used Mazda AJ motor but cant get old wngine out of the escape. Seems to be stuck onto flywheel and torque converter. ANYONE IDEAS?
R U a pro tech? U R very good + good Vid , Great commentary. Thanks 4 super assist.
Hi, Can I swap my 2005 ford escape 2.3L for 2008 Ford Fusion 2.3L Engine?
Really like it most people do like Ls 240 but you a Taurus in an escape cool
hey pfun where is the second motor mount located i know of the one on top just dont know where the second one is
colorado mile high prepper There is only the one, the rest are on the transmission.
***** thank you sir i thought as much just wasnt sure now im ready to pull this sucker out and finish it this week by wednesday and still have some vacation left..
I have a 2006 Taurus with that issue. I need to replace it with a new one.
How did you find out that the car engine interchanged with the escape
Looked at a bunch of pictures and took a gamble.
I have a question that I hope that you can help me with. I have a 2007 ford escape with the 2.3 engine, auto transmission and ac. The Idler pulley for the accessory belt has sheered its' bolt into its' mounting point. The bolt is broken in half, so it must be tapped out in order to replace the idler pulley. My question is this, is the idler pulley mounted into the block of this engine or is it mounted onto the timing chain cover? If it is mounted into the block, how would you go about getting to the broken bolt? Is there a way to lower the engine in order to access it or do I have to remove the engine? If it's mounted to the timing chain cover, would I be able to remove the timing chain cover while in the car? Thanks!
Dale Martin On the V6 it is mounted to the timing cover. I believe it can be removed with the engine in place but it's a PITA.The oil pan must also be removed.
Can you do the same swap with a sho engine
What are the benefits for the seap
Did you support the transmission?
I got a 05 montego almost 284 000 miles on it now ...will go 300 I belive
the 0405 waterpump is the same just larger diameter hose. it will work. 06+ will not.
Thumbs Up!!! Great video. I made the swap, got everything hooked back up, hit the starter and the starter just spun. I was hoping it was just the bendix, but when i pulled the starter the bendix was working just fine. Did some checking and realized I failed to put the correct flywheel back on. The Taurus flywheel is a smaller diameter. Is there a workaround, or am I stuck pulling the motor again? I would love to be able to mount the starter elsewhere, or change the starter gear?? Any suggestions?
+Ima DumbAss I'm afraid you're stuck pulling it again. The backspacing was also different and could destroy the transmission if it starts.
Thanks for the reply. That's what I was afraid of, but luckily the flywheel was smaller and didn't engage.
Would an 01 Mercury Sable LS engine fit since its also a 3.0 v6 duratec?
yes
@@pfun41 ty
I happen to have a busted 02 Mazda tribute engine, and a good 06 taurus engine. What would be the main differences when swapping them, besides the fit? I know you were saying about the water pump. Is that it? It would help a lot to know
Just bought a 02 escape 3.0 v6 with 227,000 running like new still. Bought just to flip...
I was able to obtain a 2004 ford engine for 80k miles and it was the cost of 500$
Andy Ferriol go to Connecticut junkyard all engines are 175 and they’re good
Wondering if you are able to share the details of separating the transmission from the engine. The tight spaces seem daunting. I am working on replacing a transmission on a 2005 Mazda Tribute. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.
Once you have everything unbolted it should come apart fairly easily, just find a strong area where you can use a pry bar to start prying them apart, once the gap is big enough you can use the pry bar to finish separating them all the way around.
pfun41 I am getting ready to remove the engine from a Mazda tribute 3.0 and I would like to know if I need to completely remove the tranfercase bracket or just unbolt it from the engine block.
Awesome video! Are you able to provide the website you purchased the new engine from
+jennifer balmes I got it from Ebay and they shipped it to the closest freight depot.
I got an 03 Ford escape an the water pump is the same
I have an 07 mercury mariner with a 4 cylinder. Is it possible to take out the engine from the top like you did? Because I'm having trouble separating it from the transmission enough to clear the flywheel.
cbrftwo It should be able to come out of the top if its the earlier model. Did you get all the torque converter bolts?
If I have a 2002 tribute,my best option will be to swap it from a 2002 duratec taurus? A tribute engine not available.
+Jose Olivas 01-03 will work. The water pump and water outlet on the block changed in April 2003 I think
I'd like to see someone swap one of the new 3.5 ecoboost engines into one of these escapes
That sounds healthy
Now that 2005 Escapes are becoming more plentiful, any idea on what engines will drop in as easily as the 2003 Taurus versions? Will the V6 from a 2005 Taurus drop into a 2005 Escape?
It should. They really only changed the valve covers and I believe the timing cover and water pump.
What type of engine balance bar are you using? That thing looks a lot better than the chain-type adjustment one...
Its just a cheap screw adjustment one from harbor freight. Well worth it though.
I have one. The handle sucks, other than that great for 20-30 dollars. Gets the job done.
can i use a block from a 2009 3.0 ford escape . my block have a stripped bolt hole
In what vehicle?
I got a 2004 Sable LS and they swap the engine out in put in a 2005 Ford Taurus couple things not put together it's there going to be a problem getting some one to put it together
Those vehicles are pretty much identical underneath the badging, and there's no difference between the years IIRC. There shouldn't be any trouble getting it back together.
pfun41 thinks
pfun41 when buying parts for the motor is everything Ford Taurus
pfun41I have 2004 mazda tribute 3.0, do you remember how many tanny bolts you have to remove and do you have to remove all of the motor mounts or just the one on the top left of engine? thanks
No, and any bolted to the engine.
How do I brake the motor from transmission
Do you think the trans and drivetrain would handle a 5.3L GM V8 if I made an adapter? Thanks for the vid.
If by handle you mean explode into many pieces.
+pfun41 yeah, I was thinking the torque increase may have a negative affect.
I want to see someone do either a SHO taurus swap with yamaha motor into a 1st gen escape, or a st focus hatch swap into 1st gen.
Cant find anyone thats done it yet.....
Do the heads while it's out will Outlast the escape.
thanks kid very nice.
hey how did you get rear manifold off and how did you get the bolts for flywheel and torque converter
colorado mile high prepper With relatively small hands, an assortment of extensions and socket adapters, and alot of sweat and pain. To get to the torque converter bolts you need to pull a small rubber dust cover off of the bottom of the transmission where it meets the engine. Behind it there is an open space that will allow access to the flexplate. You have to rotate the engine and line each torque converter bolt with the access hole to remove them one by one. The Bolts holding the flexplate to the engine can only be accessed with the engine removed.
thanks alot pfun changing the engine in my escape this weekend well started it today hoping to have finished by weekend
hey quick ? i got a another engine today yeah again for ford escape 2002 hey my truck has a oil cooler where the oil filter screws on but today the engine they sent me doesnt have said cooler on the engine now where do my lines go that cant connect now
Older oil coolers just screwed on in place of an oil filter and a shorter filter screwed onto them. You can remove it with an allen key and swap it over. If its one of those bolted on castings you can swap the whole casting. Worst case scenario use a double barb to connect the two coolant lines together.
I got a 2003 Ford Escape v6 when I got it in drive at a red light and I turn the AC on it wants to die what could that be
I had the same on an older Cadillac. It turned out to be a sensor. Take it to advanced Auto or any other auto parts store and borrow a scanner to see what codes have been triggered.
That startup gave me ptsd
Just found your channel can a Taurus sho engine go into 2009 Ford Escape with I-4
with enough cutting and welding anything can go into anything.
so a 05 escape engines 3.0 dohc can come out through the top then huh? allot off people say it has to come out the bottom.
It just barely fits. And you have to take some stuff off.
A Mazda Tribute is a Ford Escape with a different looking trunk door and wheel rims.
so as long as i get an 05 Taurus 3.0 Dohc engine for my 05 escape it should work right?
Yes, your valve covers and water pump will be different from mine. They did away with the tensioner and went with a stretch belt on later models.
Hello guys I have a question for you man I need help please. Can I replaced ford escape ingine with a freestyle engine? Please let know if it's going to work..
I wouldn't attempt it. Direct drive water pump, valve covers are different to accommodate it and likely won't match up to an escape timing cover.
Does the torque converter come out too??
no
I thought the escape has a Mazda engine.
I can't find anything on doing something similar for an 07 Escape. Trying to help out a friend, his engine is knocking, probably a spun bearing. Anyone know whether an 07 Taurus engine would work or why one might not?
Its one of those swaps only a handful of people have done so documentation is slim to none. Should be the same but The water pump drive varied alot. Later models did away with the tensioner arm and used s stretch belt. As long as the valve covers and water pump styles look the same it should fit without too much trouble.
pfun41 Thank you! Really appreciate the help.
both engines out now you can se them better>> - backlit silhouette of two motors and a man.
wil a 05 escape engine fit a 03
That's the timing chain
ruclips.net/video/0HzsMXz7OUM/видео.html
O
It has a broke camshaft
talk about needing power tools!!
Do a 2002 motor fit a 2006 Ford xscape
I got a 07 Ford Taurus only 152,000 engine works great but I’m so fucking tempted to put a turbo diesel in it 😭😭
Thank you very much)
Change out the PCV valve on these engines before 100K miles. A failed PCV valve will cause the engine to consume oil at an extreme rate.....and the fact that the oil level sensor is for sh*t in these motors, you won't know it until it's too late.
+Kevin Johnson These don't have an oil level sensor, just an oil pressure sensor. It doesn't loose oil pressure until its out of oil
Sounds new
Should have got a SHO
7:12 Ford is not always kind enough. I mean, c'mon.. Why do I need to remove the exhaust just to drop the oil pan? That's stupid.
Hey everyone, I got an 04 ford escape 3.0 v6 (duratec). I've been considering replacing the stock exhaust manifold with a shorty header along with a few other things. I live in California so alot of the performance parts I've been looking at are not "street legal" here, which is a major setback for me. I heard that JBA has some headers that pass the smog laws here in California, but I'm having a hard time finding the correct one for the 3.0 duratec engine.
I'm still a novice at auto mechanics and could really use some knowledge, what should I do?
Thanks.
OhYoJo Your options depend on what they look for. If all they do is a sniffer in the tailpipe you can go with headers and a single cat after the Y, however you will likely fail a visual inspection. Otherwise the only option for real performance is a CARB certified header. Unless you get a header and make it look like stock manifolds or something, but that's a whole nother can of worms... And you didn't get that idea from me. If I were to do it I'd go with headers, a Flowmaster scavenger series Y and custom Y pipe with a 3 way cat after the Y. That would get you good performance and a clean tailpipe. Of course I live in a state without any emissions testing.
OhYoJo sell it start with anything else
sounds like lifter clatter
This rod knock more than 1cylander
ruclips.net/video/0HzsMXz7OUM/видео.html
Fix audio
Sounds like me when I was 13 and I found out what a woman looks like
It's shot
So much crap to fool with taking off on new motors...
+Jim Gillgam Ever torn down A GM atlas 4.2 I6?
Can you help me with your email address . I have a ford escape 2006 hybrid that I want to change completely from the hybrid to normal
Then sell it and buy a regular escape, what you want to do is going to be a nightmare.
Its in good shape but the engine???? The engine is the live of the car buddy if the engine is shit the car is a piece of shit. I just don't understand by what you mean the car is in good shape but it don't run??
Epic Think your an idiot. he was very clear and concise in his description
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