I agree that it is great that you share your knowledge and as someone who loves to build and invent, Patreon is a great way supplement cost of supplies to help others understand the process and technical side of anything we use to improve our knowledge. Thank you for your sharing!!!
Thanks, I just started my channel more for being able to look back at my beekeeping and not kill the storage in my phone. But I'm gonna check out tube buddy and help a brother out . Lol
Thanks it wasn't bad, i drive truck and made it out of the Chicago area back home in the northern part of the mitten in time to check on some splits i made the other day with some emergency cells. Looking in it looked like one hatched. Probably should wait a while to get in and check them out though. Curiously kills me though. Lol hope you had a good one !
You could use a switch on the band heater wire instead of the connectors which would allow you to create an open circuit for testing without messing with the wires and you could have the box closed as well.
Great job Jason. Looks like a pretty cool unit you have now. I can honestly say that my Provap 110 was the best thing I have ever done for my bees. I hope this helps folks get theirs too.
You have done a great job ,beacuse of you I managed to make a same devise . I need your help as for the pid ,I cant achieve the exact temparature range . Please tell me the prices in the commants you use and what they mean .My basic problem is that I easily loose the proper temparature
Nice! I just built one last fall 😊 Made a fiberglass insulator washer for under the pot. I did buy ProVap's bowl and caps and probably end up with just over $200 in it 😊
Thanks! So did you get to try your out doing fall treatments? I am anxious to try mine out. I like the idea of fiberglass washers. I will have to keep that in mind if the rubber washers fail.
@@JCsBees yes, the copper tube plugged up, blew the cap off, scared the crap out of me. I couldn't get away fast enough 😂 bought some pipe cleaners this winter to keep the tube cleaned out 😊 and got some header wrap to wrap the heater band and bowl.
I've been treating and had blowouts because I was trying to go too fast. Let the device fully reheat between hives and the plugging up goes away. A piece of bailing wire is what I use as a poker and haven't needed to use it at all once I slowed down.
Great job, it seems like you made the cook pot out of aluminum, why did you chose to make it out of aluminum and not copper? Also why did you chose to make the cook pot a 2 piece setup instead of one solid piece?
Put the pid in thru the hole then put the support bracket of the pid onto the pid halfway before you wire the pid because you can't put it on over the pid with the wire terminals in the way
@David Collins Yeah, I am aware of link issue. The guy who was gonna produce them stopped making them. At this point I am suggesting to everyone that they buy the cook pot from Pro-Vap. Sorry I can't be of more help. May also check ebay.
Thanks for sharing Jason - I built one as well but I am having a problem with my solder melting :( - I'll have to braze the 1/4" tube unless someone else has a solution.
I have built one of these and I used aluminum and copper for the pot which looks like that one so when you added the acid and did you notice that the copper was stripped a little bit inside does this affect the bees does this introduce copper or aluminum into the hive copper and some acids do not mix well
At 110v how are you planning to power the Pro-Vap? Generator? long extension Cord? I always thought the 12v battery systems were more easy to work with in remote apiaries. Love your vids and info thanks!
Hi Jason, it's funny you posted this. I'm working on building some diy vaporizers myself.I'm going to build the diesel injector type and heat gun type. I am going to try and make them with temperature control and maybe 12v & 110v version to see which I like better.Funny thing is I still don't have my 2 nucs yet but I'm trying to have everything ready to go for when I have my nucs. I am also going to redesign my fat bee man top hive feeders do I can use them to dry feed as well.
It's always a great idea to be prepared and it sounds like that just what you are doing. Good job! I have one of the diesel injector vaporizers and it does a great job just a little slow if you have very many hives. As far as the fat bee man feeder, I am not sure what they look like to be honest so I can't say rather I would use them for dry sugar. I will say a simple feeding rim is usually perfect for adding dry sugar. Best of luck!
I can't wait to see how you make the caps. I have ordered what I can. As soon as all the pieces come in I have to figure out the cheapest way to make a cookpot. Thanks Jason. Oh by the way I 3D printed some queencages. I think they came out nice, I'll have to show someone locally and see if it close to the normal cage.
That's awesome! Keep in mind I will be adding a link where you can purchase the cookpot. That may be your best bet if you don't know a machinist. That's awesome about the queen cages. Your more than welcome to come over to my Reddit community and share the printed queen cages www.reddit.com/r/JCs_Bee_Talk/. I'd love to see them!
Fan I bet you worked hard on that thing, did a really good job you just need to do one more thing.... Come to Missouri in a month and we'll get it dialed in over at my place , I have a homemade 12 volt oa immersion heater and it is so slow, so I have been fogging instead but you know how that is .. better than nothing, not better than a Pro Vap.
It was a fun project for sure and like I said in the video, I could not have done it without the help of my followers. I'd love to come to Missouri but I just don't have the time to get away, my cows would starve. lol Sounds like you need to start collecting parts to build you a provap? Best of luck!
I do if you have a strong battery and a good invertor. I am just going to buy a small generator from Habor Freight, looks like a person can pickup one for around $80.
So Jason, will the beard be going or have you figured out a safe way to use the vap, it's always recommended to use a respirator while sublimating oxalis acid
The full beard will be leaving once spring weather gets here but I will still have some facial hair. I've never had too much trouble getting my respiratory to seal though.
Just to let you all know that the heat sink is not necessary for the relay, it is recommended for heaters that will pull 10 amps or more through the relay and the 380 watt heater band is only pulling 3 to 4 amps at the most. ( Watts devided by volts = amount of Amp draw) on your heater bands, so if you have limited space I promise the heat sink is not necessary
Great video and thank you for sharing your effort!!! I have a question for you, at what temperature does the heating element to the bowl come on and at what temperature does it turn off? Thank you!!
To be honest, I am not 100% sure of that just yet. I need some better weather so I can go outside and experiment with it. I do know that the ideal temperature is 230°C or 446°F. Once spring gets here I will share another video fine tuning the setting.
The thermocouple comes with the Inkbird PID kit listed in the videos description. It did not come with the pot. The aluminium bottom of pot was made by a machinist.
Yeah, I am sorry to say but the guy I had selling them backed out and I don't know anyone else making them. May check into buying the cook pot from ProVap. Thanks for being a long time fan!
The pid that is listed on your parts list isn’t the one shown in the video i clicked on the link and ordered it and got something that looks completely different . It sent me the inkbird ipb 16 s
Jason, The Inkbird link comes up with an IPB-16 S on Amazon and looks nothing like the pid temperature controller in your video. Can you please give us the correct link? Thanks!
How about a rubber bicylce handle grip instead of that foam? I use PID's all the time building custom BBQ pits as well as other things. A PID would also be the perfect start to building a nice Queen incubator.
A bicycle hand grip would be a great option. Heck, I may even have to swap mine out now. 😂 Thanks for sharing that idea! It being the first time using a PID I was a little overwhelmed with the instructions but I think I can wire it in my sleep now, at least for a provap. I know a couple of people that have used them for incubators with great success.
@@JCsBees No problem, Most handle bars are 7/8"...... so long as the conduit is a tad larger it should work out. Use an air hose/blower and handle grips go on or come off with ease. In case you didn't know, it's wise to calibrate your thermocouple (TC) in boiling water for your elevation before putting it into service. I've had PID's be dead on with a TC and I've had them be off 30 degrees too It often happens when you use a TC that was not purchased with the PID because the resistance factors between different brands varies.
To be honest, I am not sure what size the handle is but I will be finding out. Never heard of the air hose trick before but it makes since. No, I wasn't aware that TC's should be checked to verify they are working correctly but it does make since. I wonder how a person would go about getting the same TC that came with the Inkbird kit if it was bad, any idea? I broke the bolt on my TC when I tried to tighten it but from what I can tell it's still screwed in far enough to work correctly but I guess I should double check to make sure it's accurate.
@@JCsBees It's probably a standard ( K) Type TC and ebay will be riddled with them. When you turn on the PID as it loads, it should show you the TC type in the lower SV values for one second then go into service. I use MY PIN PID's but I'm sure they're all generally the same? If you hold down the set button for 5 seconds it will go into the settings for the alarms, press the set button again and it will scroll through the choices. The setting( PUF) is how you adjust your TC reading. If the temp of your heat coil is not where it should be the OA may not vaporize correctly, was just a thought?
Yep, I am thinking it says I have a "Y" type tc. I will have to go to ebay and order a new one just incase. I appreciate all the input, it sounds like you know your way around PID's pretty well. I'm thinking about building an incubator now. 😀
What are the dimensions of the cook pot, the part you have to fabricate? The copper looks like standard copper pipe. Could you provide a couples photos of the cook pot?
The copper piece is a 1 1/2" coupler. I believe that parts was purchased at Menard's. The total height of the cook pot with the copper coupling installed is 2.57". There is more detailed information on my Patreon page, including pictures with measurements.
Excellent Jason. This hard work and video is greatly appreciate. Can I ask as I might have missed it. which solid state module did you choose in the kit, the 25 or 40 amp? Thanks, Phillip Hall
Yes, I do rotate but I only treat once a year and that's in the fall. This is because make splits all spring and summer which breaks the brood production, no brood, no mites. In the past my go to treatment was MAQs and Hopguard II. Now I will resort to my oxalic acid treatments (both the dribble method and vaporizing) and just making splits. MAQS is a great product but very costly if you have many hives. OA is pennies per treatment. I tried ApiVar 1 time and will never use it again. It takes like 8 weeks for 1 treatment, that's crazy if you ask me. lol
@@JCsBees Thanks for the info. Last year was my first season keeping bees. We have two hives and I followed the schedule (reluctantly) of the previous beekeeper of treating three times a year (without even testing for mites), Spring, Summer and Early Autumn. Each time we used a different product. MAQS, APIvar and some one strip.. I guess if we are not making splits then we generally would have to treat more often, but this year I will ensure we do thorough testing before and after treatments to see how they actually work. I was thinking to try a standard Oxalic Acid vaporizer and see how it works. Thanks for all the info and the amazing videos. I'm a big fan. Anthony (Princeton, NJ).
Yes, mites washes will teach you a lot. I'd make notes on the mite counts for each colony. You may find some colonies are able to manage the mites on their own. If it were me, those would be the colonies I would want to graft from. Glad you enjoy my videos and I am glad they help.
Excellent video sir. What is the estimated cost of the unit if you assemble it this way? I understand it has to be estimated because of what parts and labor vary from person to person. Thank you again
Thanks! I mentioned the price in the video, now I know you skipped though the video. lol The price if you have to buy all the parts can be as high as $165 and that is without buying cook pot.
Jason Chrisman this is much cheaper than provap thank you. I'm sorry I must have missed it. Thank you very much I have already shared the video to folks. This is a very good video if you someone who willing and able to do some work and save some money.
Jason my hats off to you!!!! great job on this! can you tell me how big the cook put is an how tall it is an hows its connected to the thermocouple? please an if you don't get this till latter on then I wish you an your family a very merry Christmas an a happy new Year!!!!!
@Jason Storm Glad you enjoyed the video, it took a lot of work to put it all together. As far as the other information your looking for it's listed on my Patreon page which is listed in the videos description. Thanks for the holiday wishes, the same back to you!
@Josh Hulsey Glad to hear your building one. The price of them is crazy. I wise I could help you on the canister but I am not sure. Sorry! I am fine tuning mine now and hope to use it soon. Planning to share a video.
I don't because I had them but you could use these amzn.to/2tRiyYt. These ones may do better with the heat than the ones I used. I will add them to my links in the video description. Another option may be water hose gaskets. You know the flat o-rings that keep a water hose from leaking. Then again they may be a little big.
@CNC Scottie Sorry but the guy backed out on me that was gonna make them and IO don't know anyone else. Maybe see if you can buy the cook pot from provap oxavap.com/accessories/
Jason Chrisman thanks for the reply my friend I appreciate your time what is it’s specific name on there or do you have to email them for it ? Is it called OA bowl?
Do you have any connections to anyone who can make the solid metallic bottom part of the bowl? Maybe I could contact them and they could make one for me? Thanks
I will not be selling them but I know someone who will be and I will be adding the link to the video description once it's provided to me. So keep checking back!
Cookpot is no longer for sale and not listed on their website as part. I would like to make my own also because we have a 230v current here instead of 110v. Plus the price, I can treat for 4 years with MAQS strips and still be off cheaper...
I actually have a person lined up but his machinist is running a little behind on this work order. Once I have the link I will ad it to the video description and I will also leave a comment on the video so everyone that is waiting for the link should be notified. Sorry it's taken longer than I though!
@ Northern Michigan Bee_Man The canister (cookpot) is now listed but now he's not wanting to sell the full version of the provap only off Facebook. Sorry, I will try to find another person making them and get a link.
@ Northern Michigan Bee_Man The canister (cookpot) is now listed but now he's not wanting to sell the full version of the provap only off Facebook. Sorry, I will try to find another person making them and get a link.
@ Northern Michigan Bee_Man The canister (cookpot) is now listed but now he's not wanting to sell the full version of the provap only off Facebook. Sorry, I will try to find another person making them and get a link.
This is what beekeeping is about. Sharing the knowledge and helping each other with the ultimate goal of saving bees. Thanks for the hard work.
I agree that it is great that you share your knowledge and as someone who loves to build and invent, Patreon is a great way supplement cost of supplies to help others understand the process and technical side of anything we use to improve our knowledge. Thank you for your sharing!!!
I just ordered one from Johno . This is just what beekeepers need
I thought Johno retired from building them? I just upgraded to the InstaVap and love it!!
Thank you
Thank you for the update on the lemonade machine
Not sure how I ended watching this when I was going to attempt spray paint a box to see if it cures in the sun
Thanks man , I'm a low dollar diy guy and new to beekeeping . I think this will be a winter project.
I'm with ya, if I can save money building something myself, I will. Have fun with the build!
Thanks, I just started my channel more for being able to look back at my beekeeping and not kill the storage in my phone. But I'm gonna check out tube buddy and help a brother out . Lol
That's basically why I started my channel and now look, people seems to dig it. Appreciate you checking into TubeBuddy too! Have a great day!
Thanks it wasn't bad, i drive truck and made it out of the Chicago area back home in the northern part of the mitten in time to check on some splits i made the other day with some emergency cells. Looking in it looked like one hatched. Probably should wait a while to get in and check them out though. Curiously kills me though. Lol hope you had a good one !
You could use a switch on the band heater wire instead of the connectors which would allow you to create an open circuit for testing without messing with the wires and you could have the box closed as well.
I was just thinking that the other night when I was editing this video and it wouldn't be that hard to add it either. Great minds think alike. 😀
Great job Jason. Looks like a pretty cool unit you have now. I can honestly say that my Provap 110 was the best thing I have ever done for my bees. I hope this helps folks get theirs too.
Thanks Doug! I'm excited for the weather to break so I can test out my provap. I need to do some fine tuning with it yet.
You have done a great job ,beacuse of you I managed to make a same devise . I need your help as for the pid ,I cant achieve the exact temparature range . Please tell me the prices in the commants you use and what they mean .My basic problem is that I easily loose the proper temparature
Nice! I just built one last fall 😊
Made a fiberglass insulator washer for under the pot. I did buy ProVap's bowl and caps and probably end up with just over $200 in it 😊
Thanks! So did you get to try your out doing fall treatments? I am anxious to try mine out. I like the idea of fiberglass washers. I will have to keep that in mind if the rubber washers fail.
@@JCsBees yes, the copper tube plugged up, blew the cap off, scared the crap out of me. I couldn't get away fast enough 😂 bought some pipe cleaners this winter to keep the tube cleaned out 😊 and got some header wrap to wrap the heater band and bowl.
Holy crap! I never gave that much thought but I will surely be cleaning my pipe too after knowing this. Thanks for the heads up.
I've been treating and had blowouts because I was trying to go too fast. Let the device fully reheat between hives and the plugging up goes away. A piece of bailing wire is what I use as a poker and haven't needed to use it at all once I slowed down.
Great job, it seems like you made the cook pot out of aluminum, why did you chose to make it out of aluminum and not copper? Also why did you chose to make the cook pot a 2 piece setup instead of one solid piece?
Put the pid in thru the hole then put the support bracket of the pid onto the pid halfway before you wire the pid because you can't put it on over the pid with the wire terminals in the way
Hi Jason...the link for the Vaporizer canister (cookpot) is broken. Could you give an updated cookpot source? Thanks!
@David Collins Yeah, I am aware of link issue. The guy who was gonna produce them stopped making them. At this point I am suggesting to everyone that they buy the cook pot from Pro-Vap. Sorry I can't be of more help. May also check ebay.
Thanks for sharing Jason - I built one as well but I am having a problem with my solder melting :( - I'll have to braze the 1/4" tube unless someone else has a solution.
I used this solder and so far it's holding up just fine www.amazon.com/Oatey-29024-Safe-0-117-Inch-Silver/dp/B000GASQ82
Looks like 9 people from provap saw this too :) Great job.
I have built one of these and I used aluminum and copper for the pot which looks like that one so when you added the acid and did you notice that the copper was stripped a little bit inside does this affect the bees does this introduce copper or aluminum into the hive copper and some acids do not mix well
At 110v how are you planning to power the Pro-Vap? Generator? long extension Cord? I always thought the 12v battery systems were more easy to work with in remote apiaries. Love your vids and info thanks!
Harbor Freight sells a generator that will power it for around $80 and that's my plan. I can throw it in my atv wagon and go treat.
Hi Jason, it's funny you posted this. I'm working on building some diy vaporizers myself.I'm going to build the diesel injector type and heat gun type. I am going to try and make them with temperature control and maybe 12v & 110v version to see which I like better.Funny thing is I still don't have my 2 nucs yet but I'm trying to have everything ready to go for when I have my nucs. I am also going to redesign my fat bee man top hive feeders do I can use them to dry feed as well.
It's always a great idea to be prepared and it sounds like that just what you are doing. Good job! I have one of the diesel injector vaporizers and it does a great job just a little slow if you have very many hives. As far as the fat bee man feeder, I am not sure what they look like to be honest so I can't say rather I would use them for dry sugar. I will say a simple feeding rim is usually perfect for adding dry sugar. Best of luck!
I can't wait to see how you make the caps. I have ordered what I can. As soon as all the pieces come in I have to figure out the cheapest way to make a cookpot. Thanks Jason. Oh by the way I 3D printed some queencages. I think they came out nice, I'll have to show someone locally and see if it close to the normal cage.
That's awesome! Keep in mind I will be adding a link where you can purchase the cookpot. That may be your best bet if you don't know a machinist.
That's awesome about the queen cages. Your more than welcome to come over to my Reddit community and share the printed queen cages www.reddit.com/r/JCs_Bee_Talk/. I'd love to see them!
hi .can i use band heater 30*30mm ?
best regards
Fan I bet you worked hard on that thing, did a really good job you just need to do one more thing.... Come to Missouri in a month and we'll get it dialed in over at my place , I have a homemade 12 volt oa immersion heater and it is so slow, so I have been fogging instead but you know how that is .. better than nothing, not better than a Pro Vap.
It was a fun project for sure and like I said in the video, I could not have done it without the help of my followers. I'd love to come to Missouri but I just don't have the time to get away, my cows would starve. lol
Sounds like you need to start collecting parts to build you a provap? Best of luck!
Do you think this will work with a 12v battery and an inverter? Thank you for making this. I've been waiting for it.
I do if you have a strong battery and a good invertor. I am just going to buy a small generator from Habor Freight, looks like a person can pickup one for around $80.
So Jason, will the beard be going or have you figured out a safe way to use the vap, it's always recommended to use a respirator while sublimating oxalis acid
The full beard will be leaving once spring weather gets here but I will still have some facial hair. I've never had too much trouble getting my respiratory to seal though.
Thanks
Good Job Man. Thanks for showing us how. Really appreciate it. Keep up the good videos.
Awesome. Thanks Jason and team.
Just to let you all know that the heat sink is not necessary for the relay, it is recommended for heaters that will pull 10 amps or more through the relay and the 380 watt heater band is only pulling 3 to 4 amps at the most. ( Watts devided by volts = amount of Amp draw) on your heater bands, so if you have limited space I promise the heat sink is not necessary
Thanks for the information. That means I could use a small abs box to contain everything. Interesting!
Great video and thank you for sharing your effort!!! I have a question for you, at what temperature does the heating element to the bowl come on and at what temperature does it turn off?
Thank you!!
To be honest, I am not 100% sure of that just yet. I need some better weather so I can go outside and experiment with it. I do know that the ideal temperature is 230°C or 446°F. Once spring gets here I will share another video fine tuning the setting.
Great video showing how to make a copy of the biggest ripoff in beekeeping tools. I'm just waiting for parts to arrive. thanks for shareing.
@ Derek Greenhalgh
How do this work out for you?
Jason, does the pot come with thermocouple and metal base on bottom of copper tubing assembly or is it a separate part
The thermocouple comes with the Inkbird PID kit listed in the videos description. It did not come with the pot. The aluminium bottom of pot was made by a machinist.
@@JCsBees So where do we get aluminum piece for the bottom of the pot? Can’t really build this if there are no alternative sources for these pieces.
Heck of a build! Nice job!
How did you keep the solder on the tube when it heats up? Mine just melted away. Also I had big fluctuation in temperature.
I used a high heat solder but it's recommended it be brazed.
@@JCsBees What size copper tube did you use?
What size copper tubing did you use and how did you bend it
Hi Jason ,long time subscriber,couldn't find the "cook pot" on the web site you gave.Zero it in for me plz,thanks.
Yeah, I am sorry to say but the guy I had selling them backed out and I don't know anyone else making them. May check into buying the cook pot from ProVap. Thanks for being a long time fan!
@@JCsBees tyvm 8)
Other than the list you have of parts to order on your website what else do I order and where .. I think I need the cook pot
If I remember correctly the cook pot is all you will need and I would check ebay.
@@JCsBees thank you sir .
The pid that is listed on your parts list isn’t the one shown in the video i clicked on the link and ordered it and got something that looks completely different . It sent me the inkbird ipb 16 s
Jason, The Inkbird link comes up with an IPB-16 S on Amazon and looks nothing like the pid temperature controller in your video. Can you please give us the correct link? Thanks!
What size is the copper output line and where did you source your caps?
The copper tubing is 1/4" and I am releasing the video on the cap tomorrow morning, watch for it.
ruclips.net/video/2Pwhr39-mcU/видео.html
What kind of material is used for the bottom of the cook pot
How about a rubber bicylce handle grip instead of that foam? I use PID's all the time building custom BBQ pits as well as other things. A PID would also be the perfect start to building a nice Queen incubator.
A bicycle hand grip would be a great option. Heck, I may even have to swap mine out now. 😂 Thanks for sharing that idea!
It being the first time using a PID I was a little overwhelmed with the instructions but I think I can wire it in my sleep now, at least for a provap. I know a couple of people that have used them for incubators with great success.
@@JCsBees No problem, Most handle bars are 7/8"...... so long as the conduit is a tad larger it should work out. Use an air hose/blower and handle grips go on or come off with ease. In case you didn't know, it's wise to calibrate your thermocouple (TC) in boiling water for your elevation before putting it into service. I've had PID's be dead on with a TC and I've had them be off 30 degrees too It often happens when you use a TC that was not purchased with the PID because the resistance factors between different brands varies.
To be honest, I am not sure what size the handle is but I will be finding out. Never heard of the air hose trick before but it makes since.
No, I wasn't aware that TC's should be checked to verify they are working correctly but it does make since. I wonder how a person would go about getting the same TC that came with the Inkbird kit if it was bad, any idea? I broke the bolt on my TC when I tried to tighten it but from what I can tell it's still screwed in far enough to work correctly but I guess I should double check to make sure it's accurate.
@@JCsBees It's probably a standard
( K) Type TC and ebay will be riddled with them. When you turn on the PID as it loads, it should show you the TC type in the lower SV values for one second then go into service. I use MY PIN PID's but I'm sure they're all generally the same? If you hold down the set button for 5 seconds it will go into the settings for the alarms, press the set button again and it will scroll through the choices. The setting( PUF) is how you adjust your TC reading. If the temp of your heat coil is not where it should be the OA may not vaporize correctly, was just a thought?
Yep, I am thinking it says I have a "Y" type tc. I will have to go to ebay and order a new one just incase. I appreciate all the input, it sounds like you know your way around PID's pretty well.
I'm thinking about building an incubator now. 😀
What are the dimensions of the cook pot, the part you have to fabricate? The copper looks like standard copper pipe. Could you provide a couples photos of the cook pot?
The copper piece is a 1 1/2" coupler. I believe that parts was purchased at Menard's. The total height of the cook pot with the copper coupling installed is 2.57". There is more detailed information on my Patreon page, including pictures with measurements.
Excellent Jason. This hard work and video is greatly appreciate. Can I ask as I might have missed it. which solid state module did you choose in the kit, the 25 or 40 amp? Thanks, Phillip Hall
was the copper a pipe fitting or machine from solid copper bar
Copper is a 1.5" coupling.
Hey Jason, do you rotate your treatment methods throughout the year? And if so, what other treatment types do you use (Apivar, MAQS, etc)?
Yes, I do rotate but I only treat once a year and that's in the fall. This is because make splits all spring and summer which breaks the brood production, no brood, no mites. In the past my go to treatment was MAQs and Hopguard II. Now I will resort to my oxalic acid treatments (both the dribble method and vaporizing) and just making splits. MAQS is a great product but very costly if you have many hives. OA is pennies per treatment.
I tried ApiVar 1 time and will never use it again. It takes like 8 weeks for 1 treatment, that's crazy if you ask me. lol
@@JCsBees Thanks for the info. Last year was my first season keeping bees. We have two hives and I followed the schedule (reluctantly) of the previous beekeeper of treating three times a year (without even testing for mites), Spring, Summer and Early Autumn. Each time we used a different product. MAQS, APIvar and some one strip.. I guess if we are not making splits then we generally would have to treat more often, but this year I will ensure we do thorough testing before and after treatments to see how they actually work. I was thinking to try a standard Oxalic Acid vaporizer and see how it works. Thanks for all the info and the amazing videos. I'm a big fan. Anthony (Princeton, NJ).
Yes, mites washes will teach you a lot. I'd make notes on the mite counts for each colony. You may find some colonies are able to manage the mites on their own. If it were me, those would be the colonies I would want to graft from.
Glad you enjoy my videos and I am glad they help.
Excellent video sir. What is the estimated cost of the unit if you assemble it this way? I understand it has to be estimated because of what parts and labor vary from person to person. Thank you again
Thanks! I mentioned the price in the video, now I know you skipped though the video. lol The price if you have to buy all the parts can be as high as $165 and that is without buying cook pot.
Jason Chrisman this is much cheaper than provap thank you. I'm sorry I must have missed it. Thank you very much I have already shared the video to folks. This is a very good video if you someone who willing and able to do some work and save some money.
Lee, No worries I was just teasing you about missing the price in the video. lol I appreciate you sharing the videos. Thanks!
What size copper pipe is the burn pot?
Seems to me it was 1.5"
Jason my hats off to you!!!! great job on this! can you tell me how big the cook put is an how tall it is an hows its connected to the thermocouple? please an if you don't get this till latter on then I wish you an your family a very merry Christmas an a happy new Year!!!!!
@Jason Storm Glad you enjoyed the video, it took a lot of work to put it all together. As far as the other information your looking for it's listed on my Patreon page which is listed in the videos description.
Thanks for the holiday wishes, the same back to you!
Jason, ya done good.
what kind of material is you vaporizer cook pot make out off
The bottom is aluminum and the sides are copper.
Jason, do u have a newer link to the cookpot? The eBay link is dead. Thanks!
@Cameron Benedict Sorry I do not, that guy backed out on me and no one is stepping up with and offer to make them.
@@JCsBees bummer!
I am in the process of building one now. Only problem is the canister. Do you happen to know if the provap is 35mm or something else?
@Josh Hulsey Glad to hear your building one. The price of them is crazy. I wise I could help you on the canister but I am not sure. Sorry!
I am fine tuning mine now and hope to use it soon. Planning to share a video.
I did just find this but it doesn't say a size oxavap.com/accessories/
What size is the aluminum plug for the cook pot
man is absolutely gorgeous! great job!
The support bracket: did you have that made?
@Jim Cooley Nope, I made it.
Do you have a link for the rubber washers?
I don't because I had them but you could use these amzn.to/2tRiyYt. These ones may do better with the heat than the ones I used. I will add them to my links in the video description. Another option may be water hose gaskets. You know the flat o-rings that keep a water hose from leaking. Then again they may be a little big.
Should have used an aluminum washer or plate under the heat pot, better heat dissipation.
Very good point! I may have to switch them out now. Thanks for the suggestion.
YW...
@@JCsBees
and here I thought Ohio had the same winters as we did......no snow there and 3' on the ground and 10 below right now here...guess not!!! lol
Where are you located? We've had way more rain this winter than snow but they are calling for snow this afternoon.
@@JCsBees Central Wisconsin....there is so much snow I literally can't find places to put it..lol
Hey, Jason, your link to the cookpot isn't working. Is there a new link?
Sorry, The guy who was gonna make them backed out. Maybe try buying your cook pot from Pro Vap?
@@JCsBees Thanks, I'll just make my own, but I thought it may save me a step. Appreciate it.
Is the cook pot made out of aluminum?
Yes the bottom is and then it has a 1.5" copper coupling pressed on to it.
The link to the Vaporizer Canister (Cookpot) is not available on Ebay anymore. Do you know any other place to get one?
Sorry I do not. The guy that was gonna make them bailed on me.
Does anyone know where to get the aluminum bottom thats shown @18:20?
What does the relay do ?
solid state module and heat sink is not in the materials list?
Actually it's included in the Inkbird PID kit.
Can you update link for cook pot thanks
@CNC Scottie Sorry but the guy backed out on me that was gonna make them and IO don't know anyone else. Maybe see if you can buy the cook pot from provap oxavap.com/accessories/
Jason Chrisman thanks for the reply my friend I appreciate your time what is it’s specific name on there or do you have to email them for it ? Is it called OA bowl?
Do you have any connections to anyone who can make the solid metallic bottom part of the bowl? Maybe I could contact them and they could make one for me? Thanks
Sorry I do not know of anyone.
What are the dimensions of the cook pot?
The cookpot dimensions are listed on my Patreon page. The is pictures show the dimensions.
@@JCsBees so I need to pay to see dimensions?
Do we have to pay to see the dimensions?????
where can I find the cookpot?
@Paul Stupin Not sure! The guy that was gonna make them bailed on me.
Any particular reason the tube needs to be bent?
Great question but I am not really sure. Sorry!
the cook pot link does not work.
How much would you charge to build one for me?
I will not be selling them but I know someone who will be and I will be adding the link to the video description once it's provided to me. So keep checking back!
What about a 12v version
I would imagine it would be about the same but with a 12v PID.
Hope more people strat making them so the price comes down.
Here's the video on the caps I made ruclips.net/video/2Pwhr39-mcU/видео.html
good job, this is a very smart way to copy that rip off product .
Cookpot is no longer for sale and not listed on their website as part. I would like to make my own also because we have a 230v current here instead of 110v. Plus the price, I can treat for 4 years with MAQS strips and still be off cheaper...
Any update on who is going to sell this?
I actually have a person lined up but his machinist is running a little behind on this work order. Once I have the link I will ad it to the video description and I will also leave a comment on the video so everyone that is waiting for the link should be notified. Sorry it's taken longer than I though!
@ Northern Michigan Bee_Man The canister (cookpot) is now listed but now he's not wanting to sell the full version of the provap only off Facebook. Sorry, I will try to find another person making them and get a link.
@ Northern Michigan Bee_Man The canister (cookpot) is now listed but now he's not wanting to sell the full version of the provap only off Facebook. Sorry, I will try to find another person making them and get a link.
@ Northern Michigan Bee_Man The canister (cookpot) is now listed but now he's not wanting to sell the full version of the provap only off Facebook. Sorry, I will try to find another person making them and get a link.
first
lol...
Thanks