Kegging In Sankeys - How to Put Home Brew Beer in a Commercial Keg
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- Опубликовано: 2 мар 2017
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Peter walks you through a short tutorial on how to keg your home brewed beer in commercial style "Sankey" kegs.
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Really appreciate the info in this video! I had to transfer from a corny to a sankey and learn about removing the check valve from the coupler was the exact thing I needed. Thank you so much!
Nice. I too look forward to your next video on cleaning kegs. This is useful for kegging homebrew for others that have classic sanke kegerator hook ups.
This is gold! Appreciate ya’ll
Freaking Genius!!
Enjoyed the video. I look forward to the sanitation and cleaning. :)
Nice video a wish you had shown removing the liquid check valve; but it is probably self explanatory... will be finding out in a few days
Me: I wonder how to fill a sanke through a D- lock ball stop.
Him: step 2 is to remove the ball stop.
Doh!
do you shorten the corny dip tube to avoid sediment? Also...say u had fittings rigged up for sankey and corny to be tapped in kegerator where both were easy to tap/ does one have an advantage over the other as far as serving from once in kegerator !? Thanks !
Thanks for the video. Do you get some sediment into the keg initially when pushing from the corny keg? I use cornies to crash beer in and I seem to always get a cup of cloudy yeasty beer when I first tap one, so I guess it would go into the keg.
A small amount - but it's a lot less sediment than it looks like. If you give it enough time in a cold space most of the sediment stays caked to the bottom of the corney (first) keg. Once it crashes down in the sankey (second) keg it is a negligible amount - which is also important because it makes cleaning manageable without removing the snap ring/spear. If you wanted to be extra safe you could always hook up a party tap to the corney and draw out the first few ounces just to be safe.
How do you reduce foaming with the connector open to atmosphere ? keep them coming :-)
If you are transferring from a pressurized vessel (brite tank or corny keg) You can leave the gas check valve in and slightly unscrew the PRV on the disconnect to transfer under pressure. You'll want to do this slowly to minimize foam and keep the beer carbonated.
Great video thanks. I have been using cornys for a while now. Can I ask you poured a beer straight after the transfer, does it not need to be carbonated for a week or so first?
In our case it was carbonated prior to the transfer - using a corney as a "brite" tank
so you cut your dip tube short? Otherwise you would pick up the trash first?
Hi, excelent video! How did you remove the Liquid Valve check from the Sankey key? Cheers
I take a really thin tube and poke through the bottom until the check ball and retainer pop out through the top :)
Thanx & Cheeers!!!
Can you reinstall the liquid check valve after removing it?
I could not make out what you called the third item.. All I heard was"1/4" mfl to 5/16" interbog" the "interbog" .. What is it really called?
Thanks for the vid. Are you not worried about aeration of the beer during transfer?
Depends on the type of beer. If it is a style that is sensitive to oxidation I will usually closed transfer under CO2
@@GenusBrewing By "closed transfer" is that what you mean in your other answer where you slightly unscrew the PRV and transfer under pressure? Thx!
Yeah that's what I thought oxidising the crap out of it
@@djdownie3 I'm real late to the party here but in case anybody comes across this and wants an answer to avoid oxidation and turbulence during transfer; u can get a sanke connector that has butterfly valves for both the liquid and gas sides. I pressurize the keg I'm transferring to slightly below the pressure of the brite, open the liquid butterfly all the way on the connector, then slightly crack the butterfly on the gas side. This will release pressure as the liquid comes in, reduce turbulence/foam, and pretty much fully avoid any oxidation. Bonus points for not having to McGyver a standard connector too.
If you're transferring from a fermenter with a higher volume of beer than the keg, how do you know when the keg is full? I'd assume you wouldn't want to fill the keg till beer is forced out, is that correct?
Nicholas Zemek best practice would be to measure the liquid drop in the fermenter, however if you're crafty you can make a keg to keg jumper so that overflow just goes into a second keg when transferring.
Video starts at 02:10
6:34 , interesting idea to use it as a "brite" tank.
Works like a charm :)
Do you have to carbonate the beer in the Ball Lock keg before doing this transfer?
Im wondering the same thing
can you just remove the valve in the sanky keg and siphon the beer in that way?
Benjamin Orkin - You can but over time you damage the snap ring and they become increasingly difficult to reassemble. It is much easier to just tranfer through a disconnect (sankey coupler).
So I assume you can clean the sanky in the same fashion?
Yes - We try to reduce the sediment we push into sankey kegs, but to clean them we do an alkaline wash and star san rinse and they are good to go - the small amount of sediment gets pushed out with the wash and our kegs are clean and ready to use.
Pulling the spear out is easy and Ive been filling my sanke kegs for several years with 0 issues with the ring. I have a video on how to remove the spear and reinstall the seal ring. This is so much extra work. Cheers!
Almost don't even notice the sniffling!
How to you clean the transfer hardware after transferring beer to the snakey??
Is there a way to transfer under pressure, to ensure maximum carbonation?
Good content....couldn’t hear you. Let’s get a quality microphone. Please. Otherwise, I appreciate you sharing.
I would blast some CO2 the tank prior to transfer. Just me though
Why didn't you show how you removed the gas check valve. Did you replace the check valves. You shouldn't skip steps in a how to video. Us dummeys need all the steps.
Removed the gas check valve at 3:03
why are you sniffing?