I have a 2005 H2. I replaced the drivers side sensor a few years ago now the passengers side just failed. It looks like the corrosion caused the failure as you pointed out. It looks like the sensors are now discontinued. Even the Dorman sensors are hard to find. I’m going to fill the cavity with silicon sealant on mine to see if that will prevent future failures.
Thanks for the deep analysis of why those sensors fail. We bought our 2005 H2 last summer with 95,000 miles and the airbag light was on. Knowing the roof marker lights leak and there was water under the carpet after they detailed the exterior, the car dealerahip fixed the leaking roof lights but the airbag light is still on. There is no corrosion of the sensor under the carpet/driver seat, I am thinking it was once of the front sensors. Is there a good Tech ll imitator or know off you would recommend?
Try emailing Elyza at "sales@obd2shop.uk" she has alway been good to her word, in fact I even bought a spare unit (which I've never opened) Also I recommend getting the carry case with it, I didn't and very much regret it. If you're in the UK then please order 2 cases and I'll buy one from you. BTW their website is often blocked, I think beacuse they are chinese (I assume) . If you email hummerfixes@protonmail.com, I will send you the ordering information so you can at least get started.......
Thank you for your comment. The aluminum mounting-tube corrodes causes the plastic to swell, crack and leak water into the electronics. If the corrosion was removed, the internal electronics dried-out by some method and the unit re-sealed it might be resurrected. I tried doing the same thing, but had no video to guide me, perhaps the information here may put the odds in your favor, you have nothing to loose by trying I guess 🤞
Are these supposed to jiggle or have some up and down play in them? I took mine off and put them back on and noticed the screw never tightened fully on either side and there is a little up and down play on them.
Thank you for your question. The sensor's mounting hole is only partially-threaded hole and also has a chassis locating peg. The sensor's special screw has an unthreaded portion which can pass through the sensor's threaded section. The sensor's locating peg pushes into the framework leaving it's threaded section outermost. The special screw winds through the sensor hole and into the chassis, it's unthreaded section means the sensor is fully clamped against the chassis. Perhaps the screw has been replaced with a standard screw, or the sensor has been mounted upside down? If don't have the original screw you could modify a standard screw by removing enough thread for it to almost pass through the sensor. Hope this description helps 👍
Found the draw was rear dvd causing drain. At .030 ma now. Had to check fuses by hand 3 times.Was not showing up first few times. Think modules had to stop after a few hours.
Nice to hear from you😀 Parastic Drain (PD) is often talked about online yet nevery quoted like its a closely guarded secret. Still, acccording GM Bulletin #02-06-03-010A, the recommended maximum for a Hummer is 30mA. I'm not sure about if your value is 160mA or 0.16mA, the former is too high, the latter negligible I'd say, hard to measure even. My 2005 runs at 38mA but it has a 3rd party GPS tracker adding another 50mA (85mA) which pushes that battery but worth living with for security.
Thank you for your comment. As I recall I cleared the code, also the GM Service Info for this code states "The DTC will clear when the condition responsible for setting the DTC no longer exists and the scan tool Clear DTCs function is used." Actually there is a confict of owner opinions on this matter, however the GM Info is usually very accurate. Hope this helps.
.056 is not bad, mine is worse (due to a GPS tracker) and 11mA without the radio is brilliant. Aftermarket electronics, such as radios, alarms, remote starts etc, are known for causing unexpected draw problems, so these are always the 1st things to check. Also Its brilliant you can measure the draw, not everyone understands how it is done ✔👍
Thank you for you comment. The H2 in this video is 2005, 2003 to 2007 models use the same sensor (OEM 10370148) and 2008/9 models use a different sensor (OEM 10366053)
@@hummerfixes thanks so muchfor the reply, i would like to get an advise from you my friend. About a small part from my h2 2006 transfer case I'm rebuilding. I'm gonna send you the pictures. Thanks
Nice job… thank you
Thank you very much for commenting👍
I have a 2005 H2. I replaced the drivers side sensor a few years ago now the passengers side just failed. It looks like the corrosion caused the failure as you pointed out. It looks like the sensors are now discontinued. Even the Dorman sensors are hard to find. I’m going to fill the cavity with silicon sealant on mine to see if that will prevent future failures.
Thanks for the deep analysis of why those sensors fail. We bought our 2005 H2 last summer with 95,000 miles and the airbag light was on. Knowing the roof marker lights leak and there was water under the carpet after they detailed the exterior, the car dealerahip fixed the leaking roof lights but the airbag light is still on. There is no corrosion of the sensor under the carpet/driver seat, I am thinking it was once of the front sensors.
Is there a good Tech ll imitator or know off you would recommend?
Try emailing Elyza at "sales@obd2shop.uk" she has alway been good to her word, in fact I even bought a spare unit (which I've never opened) Also I recommend getting the carry case with it, I didn't and very much regret it. If you're in the UK then please order 2 cases and I'll buy one from you.
BTW their website is often blocked, I think beacuse they are chinese (I assume) .
If you email hummerfixes@protonmail.com, I will send you the ordering information so you can at least get started.......
Looking around I see there is a lot " out-of-stock" again email and I'll send you a link.
Is there any way to fix an old sensor? I think that it will work again if I remove all this corrosion. Correct me if I am wrong.
Thank you for your comment.
The aluminum mounting-tube corrodes causes the plastic to swell, crack and leak water into the electronics. If the corrosion was removed, the internal electronics dried-out by some method and the unit re-sealed it might be resurrected. I tried doing the same thing, but had no video to guide me, perhaps the information here may put the odds in your favor, you have nothing to loose by trying I guess 🤞
Are these supposed to jiggle or have some up and down play in them? I took mine off and put them back on and noticed the screw never tightened fully on either side and there is a little up and down play on them.
Thank you for your question. The sensor's mounting hole is only partially-threaded hole and also has a chassis locating peg. The sensor's special screw has an unthreaded portion which can pass through the sensor's threaded section.
The sensor's locating peg pushes into the framework leaving it's threaded section outermost. The special screw winds through the sensor hole and into the chassis, it's unthreaded section means the sensor is fully clamped against the chassis.
Perhaps the screw has been replaced with a standard screw, or the sensor has been mounted upside down? If don't have the original screw you could modify a standard screw by removing enough thread for it to almost pass through the sensor.
Hope this description helps 👍
Actually to answer your question, the sensors should be fixed with no play, if you can please keep us posted on anything you find🤞🏼
Found the draw was rear dvd causing drain. At .030 ma now. Had to check fuses by hand 3 times.Was not showing up first few times. Think modules had to stop after a few hours.
Looks like you've resolved your draw problem, that's good news👍
@@hummerfixes Thx man, its comi g along
Hey my man i have a parasitic draw on my H2, Do you think it could be this airbag sensor? Its .160 milli amps. Thx bro
Nice to hear from you😀 Parastic Drain (PD) is often talked about online yet nevery quoted like its a closely guarded secret. Still, acccording GM Bulletin #02-06-03-010A, the recommended maximum for a Hummer is 30mA. I'm not sure about if your value is 160mA or 0.16mA, the former is too high, the latter negligible I'd say, hard to measure even.
My 2005 runs at 38mA but it has a 3rd party GPS tracker adding another 50mA (85mA) which pushes that battery but worth living with for security.
Did the light go away when you installed the new sensor or did you have to clear it yourself?
Thank you for your comment. As I recall I cleared the code, also the GM Service Info for this code states "The DTC will clear when the condition responsible for setting the DTC no longer exists and the scan tool Clear DTCs function is used." Actually there is a confict of owner opinions on this matter, however the GM Info is usually very accurate. Hope this helps.
Update. The fuse is radio which is causing a .045 draw. Had to plug it back in. Total is .056 draw. Is that bad?
.056 is not bad, mine is worse (due to a GPS tracker) and 11mA without the radio is brilliant. Aftermarket electronics, such as radios, alarms, remote starts etc, are known for causing unexpected draw problems, so these are always the 1st things to check. Also Its brilliant you can measure the draw, not everyone understands how it is done ✔👍
@@hummerfixes thx mate. I think there is a cord for dvd that has come unplugged somewhere. Ill find it and draw will likely drop ill keep you posted
What year is your hummer?
Thank you for you comment. The H2 in this video is 2005, 2003 to 2007 models use the same sensor (OEM 10370148) and 2008/9 models use a different sensor (OEM 10366053)
Nice video brother. Keep bringing them. Do you have an email if someone wants to contact you directly or whtsping you, thanks.
Thank you so much for your comment 👍 Indeed the email is hummerfixes@protonmail.com
@@hummerfixes thanks so muchfor the reply, i would like to get an advise from you my friend. About a small part from my h2 2006 transfer case I'm rebuilding. I'm gonna send you the pictures. Thanks