This is a great video, I just got one of these chucks, its touch and go if it works or not, now after seeing your vid, I dont feel scared taking it to bits and cleaning, thanks again Stan!
4:30 The rubber trick really saves the day! Just opened up an Albrecht Chuck with the rubber insert, no marring the knurling at all. Seriously that internal lube must be a wax based, the same kind from old bicycle hubs.
Thanks! Mine was impossible to tighten or loosen, I followed your instructions and it works perfect now. Mine was in storage for 20yrs and had gummed up grease in it as well.
Nice video… I use copper strips to protect the body parts when unscrewing them….they can be extremely tight, especially if they’ve not been done since original assembly. The bearings should be that if they are all touching, another one would not fit in the remaining gap. They are all the same size, not as mentioned by someone earlier. The only lubrication required is on the bearings…I use a light waterproof grease. No other parts need lubricating, as it-will just act as a magnet to dust and chips, it will also prevent proper operation of the chuck… With frequent use, coolant can obviously enter into the internal parts of the chuck, this is why they should be disassembled and cleaned at regular intervals..
No missing bearing ball, that's the way they are... Had to "Unglue" mine from dried flood coolant, nothing would do it except a propane torch to soften the dried cake inside the slipping parts of the chuck. Works like a new one until next maintenance is required... Great chucks in deed.. ;)
The 'Missing' ball allows the bearings to turn without grinding against each other. I guarantee if you look closely in all bearing cups there is a space that is 1 to 1/2 the diameter of the bearing.
Nicely done Stan! Those chucks are available with wrench flats and a wrench for tightening the chucks more firmly and they make disassembly much easier since you can just grab the back half with the wrench. ATB, Robin
Yes but he did it wrong, look at my link to how to do it : www.albrecht-germany.com/instruction/ pdf name : Reparaturanleitung_SBF_-_Stand_06.07.2016.pdf
Sorry to point out that it is not the right way to do it, This is the way to do it right www.albrecht-germany.com/instruction/, look for Reparaturanleitungen SBF, pdf name : Reparaturanleitung_SBF_-_Stand_06.07.2016.pdf
IF NOTHING ELSE STAn--you should feel great the amazing robrenz watches your videos----noone even close to him cept for this old tony--but for sure to different talents both incredible at what they do in thier own ways---- i think the most amazing thing would be if this old tony and robrenz colaberated ---tony has almost 500,00 subs and if rob got the shine--hias subs would go thru the roof---everyone should shout out rob to push his subs caUSE HE DONT DO ENOUGH VIDS!!!!!!!!!!!!! ENJOY ALL!!
Thanks for making the video. I have an Albrecht chuck with an integral R8 shank that I managed to use to chuck and drill with a large Silver & Demming drill. Drill got caught in the work, chuck cranked down on the drill shank and got so tight I had to resort to Channelock pliers to get the chuck loose. Now the chuck has about .020” runout in it. So I still have the chuck but it’s in the junk pile. Your video should help me take it apart to figure out what is screwed up about it and maybe repair or at least keep it for spare parts. Needless to say, I don’t use my new Albrecht chuck with my large S&D twist drills any more.
The last video I watched before I left for holidays was this one and I totally forgot about it. On holidays I went to a flea market and bought a Röhm and an Albrech chuck. I came back to this browser window still open. Now I'm watching it again :D
I used to service the various chucks at a part time job I had... The balls may have two different sizes, typically only (0.0010") difference is size... every other ball is the larger diameter from the in between the smaller diameter balls... The larger diameter balls balls are the load bearing balls, and the smaller diameter balls are merely just to space the larger balls from touching one another and spalling from the counter rotation of two load bearing balls contact points... I do not know of your chuck, but worth checking the next time, you have it open... sometimes, the balls are color coded, shinny hard chrome look to a darker, but still very shinny chromed look, to allow a visual indicator of the stagger of load bearing balls to spacers balls..
@6818015 Ah, I see... Glad to know that... for that brand of chuck. I had a couple chances to buy one for myself, but, quite costly. sure is nice stuff though..
@6818015 If I come across one of that brand, for a fair price, absolutely, I will grab it. Adding to the collection of chucks, I already have, (not of this brand) but do want to play with one in time.
Glad to see all is well. Just for reference, when I take one of these apart, I hold the smooth part of the chuck in my 3 jaw chuck on the lathe and use a strap wrench on the knurled part. It comes apart very easy that way. Just make sure the 3 jaw chuck jaws are grabbing the smooth part of the chuck and not the split collar. Good video.
Stan I see you still have a rare steel garbage can. I have one and even have the lid. When I was younger I guess I did not realize how heavy an empty one is. Mine is pretty heavy even empty. Maybe I should will it to the Smithsonian . LOL Thanks for the video great presentation.
Great instructional video. My 0-1/2 Rohm appears to work the same as the Albrecht but much less expensive. It has spanner wrench holes in the body for extra tightening when used in reverse, such as backing out taps in the lathe chuck.
Thanks so much, I have a chuck that wont hold either. I really appreciate you spelling it out. I don't want to go at it with a bear pair of channel lock's but I'd rather not make a custom tool to disassemble either. Being a hobbyist, I don't have the luxury of apprenticeship, and all of the little details that matter. Like how to rough up the backs of the jaws - but not too much.
No lube on the threads , only on the balls and a slight bit on the inside of the hood. If the threads on the body and spindle are really worn or trashed the parts should be replaced. If they are shiny but not worn they should be lapped with medium valve grind paste in both push and pull directions, all paste fully removed, and the parts assembled and run dry. There should be no grease on the spindle or back surface of the jaw guide. Lube on there will give the jaws a spongy feel.
I dont know. I got my info from Ed Schmidt at Albrecht Inc in New York in the early 1990's, via Guy Lataurd. The lapping is supposed to be part of the deluxe refurbish service. I have done it to several with good results. They might be able to give info on the effect of water based coolants on their chucks.
Nice repair! I've watched Tom's disassembly vid some time back, but this was a great refresher. My Albrecht style seems to slip (on a tap) while attempting to tap with the mill; is this common or does it need the disassembly/cleaning tune-up?
Nice video, had to do my chuck a couple weeks ago. If you get a chance measure the run out on the BP. Would like to know what you see compared to my BP with an Albrecht. Craig
Stan did a video some years ago, in which he re-ground the spindle in his mill using a rather simple technique. The run-out was much better after that if i remember. I would like to see what the chuck tir is too.
Look for [ bead tweezers ]; they have a little pocket in the tips to keep the balls from squeezing out. Excellent for manipulating small balls (or beads). Sometimes called pearl tweezers.
Tom Lipton has a video on Albrecht tear down. His chuck had about 1/3 to 1/2 a ball spacing in the race. Yours looks like over 1 ball spacing. You may be missing a ball or this varies by chuck size.
Hi STAN, the same thing is happening to my new Albrecht chuck. After a week working on it I found using a pair of sticky rubber glove to close the chuck does the business. Interested to hear your thoughts? Kindest regards. Joe.
This set of Albrecht repair instructions is even better than those by Albrecht: www.machinistblog.com/rebuilding-an-albrecht-drill-chuck/ Yes, one ball is missing. Too much oil in there. The bearings, yes, grease. The coarse square threaded spindle and the nut it screws into should be dead dry. The hood can have a couple drops of oil spread over the entire surface. A drop or two of oil on the hood threads. That's it, to do it correctly. Stan, yours will likely work fine. If not, redo the lube.
Yes but he did wrong, no oil on screw, look at this link www.albrecht-germany.com/instruction/ pdf name : Reparaturanleitung_SBF_-_Stand_06.07.2016.pdf
No, Oxtools did it wrong, This is the way to do it right www.albrecht-germany.com/instruction/, look for Reparaturanleitungen SBF, pdf name : Reparaturanleitung_SBF_-_Stand_06.07.2016.pdf
Good save. Here's a test: clamp a smooth HSS tool shank in the vise, then tighten the Albrecht down onto it with both hands. Then, see if you can spin the chuck on the shank with the same hands. If you can, jaws are worn; should be rebuilt.
This is a great video, I just got one of these chucks, its touch and go if it works or not, now after seeing your vid, I dont feel scared taking it to bits and cleaning, thanks again Stan!
Albrecht = High quality German engineering and machining. A top shelf chuck. Really good video Stan. Simple to the point.
Great maintenance video. Almost all types of grease will gum over time. Especially with a lot of heating cooling cycles. Great Edutainment!!
Thanks for giving us the "inside scoop" on the Albrecht, I have one and love it, best thing I ever did for my 40+ year old 6+6 Rockwell Drill Press
4:30 The rubber trick really saves the day!
Just opened up an Albrecht Chuck with the rubber insert, no marring the knurling at all.
Seriously that internal lube must be a wax based, the same kind from old bicycle hubs.
Very fussy doing it the first time, but once you get it apart it all makes sense. Totally agree on the fit and finish- such beautiful parts.
Stan, Very enjoyable video, thanks for sharing.!.!.!
Thanks! Mine was impossible to tighten or loosen, I followed your instructions and it works perfect now. Mine was in storage for 20yrs and had gummed up grease in it as well.
Nice video…
I use copper strips to protect the body parts when unscrewing them….they can be extremely tight, especially if they’ve not been done since original assembly.
The bearings should be that if they are all touching, another one would not fit in the remaining gap.
They are all the same size, not as mentioned by someone earlier.
The only lubrication required is on the bearings…I use a light waterproof grease. No other parts need lubricating, as it-will just act as a magnet to dust and chips, it will also prevent proper operation of the chuck…
With frequent use, coolant can obviously enter into the internal parts of the chuck, this is why they should be disassembled and cleaned at regular intervals..
No missing bearing ball, that's the way they are... Had to "Unglue" mine from dried flood coolant, nothing would do it except a propane torch to soften the dried cake inside the slipping parts of the chuck. Works like a new one until next maintenance is required... Great chucks in deed.. ;)
Thank you for the chuck maintenance vid.
Jacobs chucks need similar maintenance too.
Thanks for the vids
The 'Missing' ball allows the bearings to turn without grinding against each other.
I guarantee if you look closely in all bearing cups there is a space that is 1 to 1/2 the diameter of the bearing.
Excellent tutorial, thank you for taking the time to make it.
Great Video Stan! Nice tip on setting those ball bearings in there with that piece inserted in the middle. Makes it a lot easier 💪✨👏👌🏻
Thanks Stan, I need to do this for one of my import clones, so it was timely and well presented.
Hi Stan, well it's amazing what a good cleaning can accomplish & repair!! nicely done!!
Thanks for sharing, I'll have to check my Albrect to see if I have the same problem. I bought it used, and have only used it a few times.
Nicely done Stan! Those chucks are available with wrench flats and a wrench for tightening the chucks more firmly and they make disassembly much easier since you can just grab the back half with the wrench.
ATB, Robin
Yes but he did it wrong, look at my link to how to do it : www.albrecht-germany.com/instruction/ pdf name : Reparaturanleitung_SBF_-_Stand_06.07.2016.pdf
Sorry to point out that it is not the right way to do it, This is the way to do it right www.albrecht-germany.com/instruction/, look for Reparaturanleitungen SBF, pdf name : Reparaturanleitung_SBF_-_Stand_06.07.2016.pdf
IF NOTHING ELSE STAn--you should feel great the amazing robrenz watches your videos----noone even close to him cept for this old tony--but for sure to different talents both incredible at what they do in thier own ways---- i think the most amazing thing would be if this old tony and robrenz colaberated ---tony has almost 500,00 subs and if rob got the shine--hias subs would go thru the roof---everyone should shout out rob to push his subs caUSE HE DONT DO ENOUGH VIDS!!!!!!!!!!!!! ENJOY ALL!!
Excellent video, Stan. Thanks so much!!
Stan, Very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks for making the video. I have an Albrecht chuck with an integral R8 shank that I managed to use to chuck and drill with a large Silver & Demming drill. Drill got caught in the work, chuck cranked down on the drill shank and got so tight I had to resort to Channelock pliers to get the chuck loose. Now the chuck has about
.020” runout in it. So I still have the chuck but it’s in the junk pile. Your video should help me take it apart to figure out what is screwed up about it and maybe repair or at least keep it for spare parts. Needless to say, I don’t use my new Albrecht chuck with my large S&D twist drills any more.
Another lesson learned Thank you for this video.
The last video I watched before I left for holidays was this one and I totally forgot about it.
On holidays I went to a flea market and bought a Röhm and an Albrech chuck.
I came back to this browser window still open. Now I'm watching it again :D
Nice repair, thanks for the vid Stan.
I used to service the various chucks at a part time job I had... The balls may have two different sizes, typically only (0.0010") difference is size... every other ball is the larger diameter from the in between the smaller diameter balls... The larger diameter balls balls are the load bearing balls, and the smaller diameter balls are merely just to space the larger balls from touching one another and spalling from the counter rotation of two load bearing balls contact points... I do not know of your chuck, but worth checking the next time, you have it open... sometimes, the balls are color coded, shinny hard chrome look to a darker, but still very shinny chromed look, to allow a visual indicator of the stagger of load bearing balls to spacers balls..
@6818015 Ah, I see... Glad to know that... for that brand of chuck. I had a couple chances to buy one for myself, but, quite costly. sure is nice stuff though..
@6818015 If I come across one of that brand, for a fair price, absolutely, I will grab it. Adding to the collection of chucks, I already have, (not of this brand) but do want to play with one in time.
Stan, I lost your website months ago and with my chemo-brain addled memory couldn’t find you again. Great segment!
Glad to see all is well. Just for reference, when I take one of these apart, I hold the smooth part of the chuck in my 3 jaw chuck on the lathe and use a strap wrench on the knurled part. It comes apart very easy that way. Just make sure the 3 jaw chuck jaws are grabbing the smooth part of the chuck and not the split collar. Good video.
Stan I see you still have a rare steel garbage can. I have one and even have the lid. When I was younger I guess I did not realize how heavy an empty one is. Mine is pretty heavy even empty. Maybe I should will it to the Smithsonian . LOL Thanks for the video great presentation.
Good Job, awaiting the next video
Nice and informational videos !! i hope to meet you and all of the machinest at your Summer bash!! thank you
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the disassembly tips know I hope that my Rohm chuck will be as easy.
Rohms are easier. At least the Spiro is. No replacements parts available though.
Thanks I'll check it out.
Great instructional video. My 0-1/2 Rohm appears to work the same as the Albrecht but much less expensive. It has spanner wrench holes in the body for extra tightening when used in reverse, such as backing out taps in the lathe chuck.
Good job stan, I have an albrecht chuch that holds well but does not turn freely and will have to service it soon.
I needed this video. Thanks.
Thanks so much, I have a chuck that wont hold either. I really appreciate you spelling it out. I don't want to go at it with a bear pair of channel lock's but I'd rather not make a custom tool to disassemble either. Being a hobbyist, I don't have the luxury of apprenticeship, and all of the little details that matter. Like how to rough up the backs of the jaws - but not too much.
Great video! I’ve always wondered what was on the inside of one of those. Nice job.👍🏻
Wonderful
Great video, aaaand we can see what you are doing.
I think the missing ball is standard fair.
Very interesting.
Great Job Stan ,I would of lost some of the Bearings!
Great video Stan. Do one on a 14N, I think mine could use some maintenance.
Great use of tupperware.
Yeah, sure hope you rinsed it out well, so the wife doesn't bust you. That solvent after taste is hard to deny.
Nice 👍😎✊
Enjoyed the video, just one note: the cleaning process can cause the appearance of cracks ;-)
No lube on the threads , only on the balls and a slight bit on the inside of the hood. If the threads on the body and spindle are really worn or trashed the parts should be replaced. If they are shiny but not worn they should be lapped with medium valve grind paste in both push and pull directions, all paste fully removed, and the parts assembled and run dry. There should be no grease on the spindle or back surface of the jaw guide. Lube on there will give the jaws a spongy feel.
kendog4570 if there is water based coolant being used wouldn't an extremely light oil provide some protection?
I dont know. I got my info from Ed Schmidt at Albrecht Inc in New York in the early 1990's, via Guy Lataurd. The lapping is supposed to be part of the deluxe refurbish service. I have done it to several with good results. They might be able to give info on the effect of water based coolants on their chucks.
Nice repair! I've watched Tom's disassembly vid some time back, but this was a great refresher. My Albrecht style seems to slip (on a tap) while attempting to tap with the mill; is this common or does it need the disassembly/cleaning tune-up?
These really rely on the friction between the drum and jaws to create the "cam" effect, heavy lube will reduce this effect.
Nice video, had to do my chuck a couple weeks ago. If you get a chance measure the run out on the BP. Would like to know what you see compared to my BP with an Albrecht.
Craig
Stan did a video some years ago, in which he re-ground the spindle in his mill using a rather simple technique. The run-out was much better after that if i remember. I would like to see what the chuck tir is too.
Look for [ bead tweezers ]; they have a little pocket in the tips to keep the balls from squeezing out. Excellent for manipulating small balls (or beads). Sometimes called pearl tweezers.
Tom Lipton has a video on Albrecht tear down. His chuck had about 1/3 to 1/2 a ball spacing in the race. Yours looks like over 1 ball spacing. You may be missing a ball or this varies by chuck size.
Hi STAN, the same thing is happening to my new Albrecht chuck. After a week working on it I found using a pair of sticky rubber glove to close the chuck does the business. Interested to hear your thoughts? Kindest regards. Joe.
This set of Albrecht repair instructions is even better than those by Albrecht:
www.machinistblog.com/rebuilding-an-albrecht-drill-chuck/
Yes, one ball is missing. Too much oil in there. The bearings, yes, grease. The coarse square threaded spindle and the nut it screws into should be dead dry. The hood can have a couple drops of oil spread over the entire surface. A drop or two of oil on the hood threads. That's it, to do it correctly. Stan, yours will likely work fine. If not, redo the lube.
That's a great article Bob, in other news my chuck is working great and its only a matter of time till that 10W oil works its way out of there :)
mine on my walker turner gets the oil down it every day and pukes it out to keep the rest of the table rust free dry steal = rust !!!!
Nice chuck but the glorious ass crack had me distracted
He said "hold those balls"... Yes I'm a child...
What's the brand of that black oil can? Looks like a Goldenrod but I've never seen a black one.
Not sure, I get them from NAPA auto parts.
At 10:43 I like your Tshirt, is it moth attacks on your belly ... :)
Nice job. Oxtools also has an excellent video on an Albrecht chuck tune-up.
Yes but he did wrong, no oil on screw, look at this link www.albrecht-germany.com/instruction/ pdf name : Reparaturanleitung_SBF_-_Stand_06.07.2016.pdf
No, Oxtools did it wrong, This is the way to do it right www.albrecht-germany.com/instruction/, look for Reparaturanleitungen SBF, pdf name : Reparaturanleitung_SBF_-_Stand_06.07.2016.pdf
Bevor du Videos drehs kannst du die Bude aufräumen.
Good save. Here's a test: clamp a smooth HSS tool shank in the vise, then tighten the Albrecht down onto it with both hands. Then, see if you can spin the chuck on the shank with the same hands. If you can, jaws are worn; should be rebuilt.