Josh, talk as you are doing the adjustment or put in text to explain what you are doing as you are doing it. But, yours is the best explanation so far.
Sorry to disappoint. I don't have a mic that will pick up me talking over the engine so explaining exactly what I'm doing while doing it is difficult. I tried my best to describe it in the description section of the video. I also found this video to be a good explanation of what is being adjusted and how it changes the operation of the engine. ruclips.net/video/7pQ6Vir1uxc/видео.html
Thank you! At first I followed the Mantis instructions for the low and high speed screw initial adjustments...they were not helpful at all. Then on my own I experimented and found ideal settings. And after all that...I found your video!
I put a Chinese carb on mine it ran great then next season same shit it starting bogging down not starting constantly tuning evertime I wanted to use it, they are a pain in the arse I don't have any issues with any of my other 2 stroke tools they are good when they're running when they run
I have to tune up my mantis today and this gave me some inspiration. Hope it doesnt need a new carb but it doesnt sound that costly considering you get a new spark plug and filter. Thanks for making this vid!
I would strongly suggest people remove the tines when working on a mantis tiller for safety when you are working on adjustments . just pull the pin on each side and slide them off..
My new carb on my Mantis started in one pull and it still starts in one pull. I did some very minor tuning but it was pretty good right out of the box.
I replaced the carburetor, spark plug, and fuel lines. Ran well then couldn' t get it to start. Replaced the wire from the starter as I noted the insulation had worn through . It is still hard to start and when it does it stalls out after running briefly. Any suggestions?
My squeezy bulb won't fill. its clear so I can see the gas coming in but it drains right back into the tank. I installed a new carb kit yesterday. Any help?
There are little rubber check valves that open to let gas in from the tank but prevent it from running back out. The valve(s) are just inside the bulb so if you take the four corner screws out the bulb and metal retainer will come off. Then look in the tiny hole where the fuel comes in to look for debris or a stiff component. Might just find a rubber or plastic "gasket" similar to the one under the bottom cover plate. If so, you can put a little pre-bend on the flap so it seats a little tighter. You'll figure it out when you get the bulb off.
@@muckleyj Thank you, just replaced the carb with new and all new fuel lines. Did not know the bulb took 100 pumps to fill. Adjusted the high needle so it starts and runs now now but the bulb empties and the engine dies. flap valve problem I hope not.
sounds like a flap valve problem to me. not terrible to fix. just pull the four screws and add a little pre-bend curl to the flaps valves. make sure to bend them towards their seat (the little hole they cover).
Try 1 turn out. Specifically the low screw. Should be close. You need the engine to start and sorta run on its own before you can play with it. Get low fuel and idle throttle position adjusted close then work on hi. Any adjustment you make to low will effect idle and hi so it might take a few tries.
Hé guys stop to show this video !!First you play with the lo speed adjuatement screw and yo8u run the engine full trottle LOL...Yet another one who knows nothing about it and shows videos!!Sorry but you are completely wrong like HPI and tyant others with the adjustment of these carburettors FOR GASOLINE. HPI, like all other manufacturers of vehicles and engines that run on nitro, say exactly the same way to adjust the carburetion of a gasoline engine as one on nitro, which is TOTALLY FALSE. This type of carburettor, whether branded, Zama, Walbro, tillotson, etc., if they have a throttle valve, all fit exactly like a chainsaw. The low speed screw Lo=low speed. the hi=high speed screw. These are 2 circuits that supply the motor but be aware that from the quarter throttle open to wide open the 2 circuits add up. I explain to you as a master mechanic with more than 45 years of experience in the field. I am certified, Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha Bombardier, Johnsered Stihl etc. I explain how to adjust your carburetor to perfection!!! start your engine and let it warm up to normal operating temperature for about 3-4 minutes. Let your engine idle because it is absolutely necessary to start by adjusting the LO screw in this way. What is needed is to find the rev peak by turning the lo screw very very slowly (to allow time for the motor to react) either clockwise or counter clockwise. clockwise and the regime will change. By turning the screw in one direction or the other find the point where the rpm will be the highest (always turn the screw lo and if the rpm is too high for idle, lower it to normal rpm with the throttle screw) and once the speed peak has been found, enrich (anti-clockwise) a quarter turn. For high revs do the same but be careful play quickly with the top screw because at high revs the engine reacts very quickly and leaving it too lean at high revs could damage it. Once you find the maximum RPM, add a quarter turn as you did for the low screw. If you listen to my advice, no one on this planet can do better than you. Ask any good chainsaw mechanic and they'll tell you I'm 200% right. I repeat the reason for starting with the lo speed screw is that at full speed the 2 circuits provide the total mixture then once the hi speed has been set if the person subsequently readjusts the lo speed by getting poorer (clock wise ) the total mixture WILL BE DECREASED. After a tank check the color of your spark plug spark plug best color is medium brown. The spark plug talk by by its color
Some manufacturers are being forced to eliminate the screws so as to meet emissions regulations. It is ironic because a poorly adjusted carb is bad for emissions and a very poorly adjusted carb will simply result in trashing the unit which is significantly worse for the environment. There are different designs of carb so you may not be completely out of luck...
Yeah, chain saws, grass trimmer, outboards. All types of small 2 stroke engines. Having to mess with the screws too often might be a leading indicator that things like the rubber gasket/check valves are starting to fail. I have a chainsaw that acts like it simply needs a new carb.
@@phygital1, glad to hear that it helps. I'm not a professional videographer and it is all completely unscripted so sometimes I regret not providing higher quality content. But if it works and gets the message across then great!
Josh of All Trades It’s your skill set that is relevant. The fact that you take the time to share your knowledge and record at all surpasses any shortcomings. Perhaps videography is a new skill set for you. I personally don’t have a problem. I did chuckle when the old carb worked fine. Kinda like bringing your car to the dealer, describing the problem, only for the car to work fine there 😅.
@@phygital1 yeah that old carb did piss me off cause just a few days before it would start but just wouldn't keep going! Haha. Like I said, unscripted! As for video quality it comes down to cost/reward. I know how to do better.. I choose not to. I'm trying to convey a message, not win Oscars. And I intentionally don't monetize my videos so the time spent is only rewarded with good feels from the community.
are you just trolling or is there an important distinction? i understand that the bulb primes the engine with fuel...thus the priming bulb name. does it add confusion by calling it a sweezie bulb?
Josh, talk as you are doing the adjustment or put in text to explain what you are doing as you are doing it. But, yours is the best explanation so far.
Sorry to disappoint. I don't have a mic that will pick up me talking over the engine so explaining exactly what I'm doing while doing it is difficult. I tried my best to describe it in the description section of the video. I also found this video to be a good explanation of what is being adjusted and how it changes the operation of the engine.
ruclips.net/video/7pQ6Vir1uxc/видео.html
Thank you! At first I followed the Mantis instructions for the low and high speed screw initial adjustments...they were not helpful at all. Then on my own I experimented and found ideal settings. And after all that...I found your video!
Glad it was helpful! I kinda figured it all out from RUclips vids myself.
I put a Chinese carb on mine it ran great then next season same shit it starting bogging down not starting constantly tuning evertime I wanted to use it, they are a pain in the arse I don't have any issues with any of my other 2 stroke tools they are good when they're running when they run
I have to tune up my mantis today and this gave me some inspiration. Hope it doesnt need a new carb but it doesnt sound that costly considering you get a new spark plug and filter. Thanks for making this vid!
Carb kits with fuel tubes filter and spark plug are only about $16 on amazon
I would strongly suggest people remove the tines when working on a mantis tiller for safety when you are working on adjustments . just pull the pin on each side and slide them off..
Probably not a bad idea.
If only it was that easy. Spent a whole day trying to get one off. The other one was somewhat easy to get off
Great job!
My new carb on my Mantis started in one pull and it still starts in one pull. I did some very minor tuning but it was pretty good right out of the box.
I replaced the carburetor, spark plug, and fuel lines. Ran well then couldn' t get it to start. Replaced the wire from the starter as I noted the insulation had worn through . It is still hard to start and when it does it stalls out after running briefly. Any suggestions?
Sounds like you may might still need to tune the carb. Specifically the low fuel valve and the idle.
Can you please advise a link to the kit and carburetor you purchased?
www.amazon.com/dp/B01F5CYGMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_WHW8HP3X68Q77PEBJBDR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My squeezy bulb won't fill. its clear so I can see the gas coming in but it drains right back into the tank. I installed a new carb kit yesterday. Any help?
There are little rubber check valves that open to let gas in from the tank but prevent it from running back out. The valve(s) are just inside the bulb so if you take the four corner screws out the bulb and metal retainer will come off. Then look in the tiny hole where the fuel comes in to look for debris or a stiff component. Might just find a rubber or plastic "gasket" similar to the one under the bottom cover plate. If so, you can put a little pre-bend on the flap so it seats a little tighter. You'll figure it out when you get the bulb off.
@@muckleyj Thank you, just replaced the carb with new and all new fuel lines. Did not know the bulb took 100 pumps to fill. Adjusted the high needle so it starts and runs now now but the bulb empties and the engine dies. flap valve problem I hope not.
sounds like a flap valve problem to me. not terrible to fix. just pull the four screws and add a little pre-bend curl to the flaps valves. make sure to bend them towards their seat (the little hole they cover).
your going to replace the lines anyway why take ines off carb.
What positions on the hi and low should I start at? Turns out?
Got it I asked too soon. So where did you end up? Less than 1 turn out on both. Thanks for the vid. Years later and still helping out!
Try 1 turn out. Specifically the low screw. Should be close. You need the engine to start and sorta run on its own before you can play with it. Get low fuel and idle throttle position adjusted close then work on hi. Any adjustment you make to low will effect idle and hi so it might take a few tries.
Can you provide a link to the carburetor kit you ordered?
www.amazon.com/dp/B01F5CYGMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_WHW8HP3X68Q77PEBJBDR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@muckleyj Why does the kit they show not have the yellow colored fuel line?
Hé guys stop to show this video !!First you play with the lo speed adjuatement screw and yo8u run the engine full trottle LOL...Yet another one who knows nothing about it and shows videos!!Sorry but you are completely wrong like HPI and tyant others with the adjustment of these carburettors FOR GASOLINE. HPI, like all other manufacturers of vehicles and engines that run on nitro, say exactly the same way to adjust the carburetion of a gasoline engine as one on nitro, which is TOTALLY FALSE. This type of carburettor, whether branded, Zama, Walbro, tillotson, etc., if they have a throttle valve, all fit exactly like a chainsaw. The low speed screw Lo=low speed. the hi=high speed screw. These are 2 circuits that supply the motor but be aware that from the quarter throttle open to wide open the 2 circuits add up. I explain to you as a master mechanic with more than 45 years of experience in the field. I am certified, Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha Bombardier, Johnsered Stihl etc. I explain how to adjust your carburetor to perfection!!! start your engine and let it warm up to normal operating temperature for about 3-4 minutes. Let your engine idle because it is absolutely necessary to start by adjusting the LO screw in this way. What is needed is to find the rev peak by turning the lo screw very very slowly (to allow time for the motor to react) either clockwise or counter clockwise. clockwise and the regime will change. By turning the screw in one direction or the other find the point where the rpm will be the highest (always turn the screw lo and if the rpm is too high for idle, lower it to normal rpm with the throttle screw) and once the speed peak has been found, enrich (anti-clockwise) a quarter turn. For high revs do the same but be careful play quickly with the top screw because at high revs the engine reacts very quickly and leaving it too lean at high revs could damage it. Once you find the maximum RPM, add a quarter turn as you did for the low screw. If you listen to my advice, no one on this planet can do better than you. Ask any good chainsaw mechanic and they'll tell you I'm 200% right. I repeat the reason for starting with the lo speed screw is that at full speed the 2 circuits provide the total mixture then once the hi speed has been set if the person subsequently readjusts the lo speed by getting poorer (clock wise ) the total mixture WILL BE DECREASED. After a tank check the color of your spark plug spark plug best color is medium brown. The spark plug talk by by its color
you just go around watching youtube to tell people they are wrong? go make a video yourself and be helpful to someone.
my carb does not have any adjustment screws
Some manufacturers are being forced to eliminate the screws so as to meet emissions regulations. It is ironic because a poorly adjusted carb is bad for emissions and a very poorly adjusted carb will simply result in trashing the unit which is significantly worse for the environment.
There are different designs of carb so you may not be completely out of luck...
Very helpful. Didn’t know about the low and high throttle screw adjustments, and the idle adjust screw.
Going to look at my grass trimmer now.
Yeah, chain saws, grass trimmer, outboards. All types of small 2 stroke engines. Having to mess with the screws too often might be a leading indicator that things like the rubber gasket/check valves are starting to fail. I have a chainsaw that acts like it simply needs a new carb.
Josh of All Trades I really do appreciate your laymen explanations that connect mental dots for others that may not understand how all the pieces fit.
@@phygital1, glad to hear that it helps. I'm not a professional videographer and it is all completely unscripted so sometimes I regret not providing higher quality content. But if it works and gets the message across then great!
Josh of All Trades It’s your skill set that is relevant. The fact that you take the time to share your knowledge and record at all surpasses any shortcomings. Perhaps videography is a new skill set for you. I personally don’t have a problem. I did chuckle when the old carb worked fine. Kinda like bringing your car to the dealer, describing the problem, only for the car to work fine there 😅.
@@phygital1 yeah that old carb did piss me off cause just a few days before it would start but just wouldn't keep going! Haha. Like I said, unscripted!
As for video quality it comes down to cost/reward. I know how to do better.. I choose not to. I'm trying to convey a message, not win Oscars. And I intentionally don't monetize my videos so the time spent is only rewarded with good feels from the community.
It's a primer bulb, not a squeezie bulb.
are you just trolling or is there an important distinction? i understand that the bulb primes the engine with fuel...thus the priming bulb name. does it add confusion by calling it a sweezie bulb?
@@muckleyj No, but it makes you sound like a moron. 😉
Actually, the official term is squeezey balb. I looked it up.😅😂