After you vacuum the unit close the gauges and attach refrigerant to the yellow hose and open the refrigerant. After you open the refrigerant crack the other end of the yellow hose to let out any air in the yellow hose. Close the yellow hose after just barely letting out a little Freon. Leave system off and open the high side valve and put as much of the Freon in that will go in. The reason for this is the refrigerant is in a liquid state and you don’t want to flood the compressor from the suction side. After the system takes what Freon will go in with the system off turn off the high side”red” valve on the gauges. Turn system on and finish charging unit from the suction side”blue” valve on the gauge. This is standard procedure for any ac. I have been doing hvac for 20 years and it doesn’t seem to hurt the system the way he did it but he will have a slight amount of ambient air in the system from the yellow hose which in the long run will create problems. And starting the system with no Freon isn’t good. Just my 2 cents
@@cusber Any ambient air the gets in the system is going to be what is called a non-condensible...takes up space in the system and affects the cooling capacity, and will cause fluctuations in the pressures. also, the ambient air has a certain amount of moisture content. also a non-condensible...this moisture is water and water is also not compressible. so when a pocket of moisture gets to the compressor, it will throw things off. also when moisture and certain refrigerant oils come together, it can create acidic conditions that can eventually corrode and cause leaks or other issues. not saying any of this will happen...but the possibilities are there. and a compressor should never really be energized while in a state of vacuum. as another note for the video poster...the negative side of the low pressure gauge isn't measuring PSI. It is measuring a unit of vacuum known as inches of mercury. Ideally, without a digital micron gauge, using these analog gauges only, you should be getting that down to the -29 inches of mercury mark if you have a good sealed system. if its not getting down, you have a leak somewhere...anywhere in the system itself all the way back to your gauges and vacuum pump. OR you still have moisture in the system and you need to let the vacuum pump continue to run however long it may take to boil off remaining moisture.
Thank you for the good explanation. This should be a big help. Wish I had taken an AC course when I had the chance in Junior College. I used to only pay $13 a credit for classes!!!!
You took the words right out of my mouth. I kinda cringed seeing him turning can upside down pumping liquid into the low side. Sometimes people get lucky
Thanks for sharing your exprience with the unit. We also have this mounted, in 12V version, using it actually for a couple of months so far. We wanted to be able to live/travel along with our guinea pigs therefore AC was a must if we ever wanted to go on a hike during summer. It serves its purpose really well, we typically set the target temperature to 26-27 Celsius degrees and on fan speed level 1 and it's keeping it steadily. We have a 30A MPPT controller and ~1kW of solar panels on the roof to feed it, so during the day it's covering almost whole load of the AC. We're looking into an upgrade to 70A MPPT which should give us guarantee of covering AC needs for power during sunny days. Cheers!
I just ordered the 12vdc version, thanks for your input on what I should expect on power usage when it's installed and running. I figured I will be needing to add about 600w more of solar panels if I want to lower my dependence on my generator to charge the batteries.. My travel trailer is only 20ft, but I believe I can find a way to make 1kw of solar panels fit.
Having a 30A MPPT with 1KW solar surely is a huge bottle neck you are not utilizing maximum of your solar panels plus 30A MPPT may blow up at these loads.
Great work on the power test section at the end. You answered so many of my questions and were specific enough to keep me focused in on what you were saying but not like overkill mode like some video can be haha! Much appreciated man! Thanks for your content
Thanks for the info. You are about the only one in North America that so far has given a review on one of these specific a/c systems. I just ordered the 12v version that had the added 800w heater built into the air handler for about 50 bucks more. This will be going into my 20ft Keystone Passport ROV 173 travel trailer and will be running it on a bank of 3-240ah (720ah total) Lithium iron batteries with 400w of solar panels on the roof to start with. No doubt, I might need to add another 200w of panels. The main goal, is to at least be able to keep the travel trailer cool during quiet hours at a given campground when dry camping atnd top off the batteries with a generator during the day if the solar system isn't keeping up. I will update when I have my 12v a/c system running.
Right on! I really like the heater option I’ve never seen that before. That sounds like a great setup. Let us know how it works out. Our system has been working great.
@@outsidenomad I got the 12v version mini-split installed tonight. No manual was included in this and took me a couple hours of troubleshooting the failed vacuum test to learn that the small and large size "O" rings inside the parts bag, was needed to be placed on the refrigerant fittings on the air handler. I message the Amazon vendor to tell him that he needs to get me a manual if he wants a more positive review, which is said he will get me one in a couple days. The initial settings are showing this drawing just over 49 amps on high a/c setting and will taper off around 25-30amps when reaching the set temperature. Without a manual and the buttons being in Chinese, it was a hit and miss several times with the buttons, before I finally got the electric heater running. Initial impressions with the heater were ok, but doubt I would want to be in artic temps trying to warm up my camper with it, hopefully I get a manual and better understand how to make it work better. I can certainly see it take a chill out of the air in the camper when outside temps are around 40-50 degrees F. I'll be running the a/c overnight in my camper and check on it when I wake up in the morning. I wish I had a way to send yo some pics of how I installed it on a slide out of a 20ft travel trailer.
Great video, really helpful to gauge what these will draw! Something that I did notice was you using "amps" interchangeably with what I assume was "amp-hours". The difference is huge and would help others by discerning between the two. Amps is instantaneous current, so you would say that it's drawing 24 amps on high load. However after an hour of running on high (ignoring duty cycles) you would say it's pulled 24 amp-hours from your battery as it's a measure of draw over time. As your batteries are rated in amp-hours this is a much more meaningful number. You can also avoid the translation of 12 volt to 24v by just converting all your units to watts and thus watt-hours (which I'd highly recommend anyone doing math for electrical) So you'd say that this would be drawing 576 watts (24v x 24a) and over the course of an hour this would my 576 watt-hours, or over the course of 1/2 hour it would be 288 watt-hours
Agreed, I got a little loose with my terminology. Watts is a far better way to go when talking about all this but unfortunately the industry is so biased towards talking in amp hours.
Hey man, this is Tyrone Washington, in the hood we not got a vacuum pump. So I just push nitrogen gas ⛽️ inside the pipes. This will push the oxygen and humidity out. Then I lets the nitrogen out of the pipes, just down to one pound of pressure. Then we push in the 134 feeron. Works best for the Hood.
Thanks for your great video and contribution to us van builders! One minor but important suggestion. When you say "amps" that you've used over time you should be saying Amp-Hours and Watts used over time should be "watt-hours" Amps and Watts are both instantaneous measures. There is no such thing as "I sued 300 watts over 30 minutes (that would 150-watt-hours and there is no such thing as "watts per hour" if you use 600 Watts for 30 minutes that's "300 Watt-Hours" (Not watts "per" hour") if you use 25 amps for 30 minutes that's "12.5 Amp-Hours". Think of it like person-days - if two people work for a 2 days that's 4 person-days - not 4 persons "per" day.
Just so we on the same page, vacuum is measured in inches of mercury or Microns not PSI. There is no such thing as negative pressure minus indicates below atmospheric pressure pressure is always positive no matter how low it is.😅
Awesome review! I just watched part 1, and I'm convinced I want to get one of these for my skoolie. I've got a 28-ft bus, and it came with 2 factory units, but they function more like fans than ACs. So, I'm hoping to rip those out and install 2 of these instead. The power use would be much lower and the price is the best I've found so far for a 12v AC. Would love a 1-year review of how the unit's been holding up.
Same, I have a handicap bus that I’ve converted into a work van/bus for my profession and the bus doesn’t have rear air, so I’m wondering how this will manage. I’m assuming I’ll be able to run this but with an inverter pulling power as well, I’m not exactly sure what all he’s saying means. I’m assuming I’m gonna need a few batteries?
Don't do the mini split on a moving vehicle. They're not designed to be bumped around. I've had 2 fail ok me. Now I'm here researching 12v systems to replace my mini split lol
Thank you for making this video. FYI there's a difference between Amps (A) which is a rate, and Amp hours (Ah) which is a quantity, same thing with Watt's (W) and Watt hours (Wh) There is no such thing as Watts per hour.
Glad I found your videos. Good job documenting! Another option could be a 110v mini split with a high SEER. I see their ratings vary from 16 to 26. I know there is a 15% inverter penalty going from 110 to 12 but if the unit had only a 15% better SEER it would then be more efficient, right? I didn't see any any SEER listed for this 12/24 model, and wouldn't trust one if they did publish it.
Finally, a complete video about this type of A.C. ! I just found you and instantly subscribed just for that. I am looking forward to see a wattage consumption test at much hoter temperatures (like 40 celsius dg). I still have some weeks to decide between buying a 230V AC mini split or this 24V Dc. The all day ON inverter scares me a lot, so that means I have to switch it Off every time I leave the camper, so I can't let the A.C. low runing from solar. The heating option is a plus for the AC minisplit, but the exterior unit is not modular and eats a lot of interior space since I would want to enclose it in a slide out box ( for stealth-ish look reasons). I wish they make a 24V DC air with heating pump, too.. Safe travels!
How often do you need to recharge the same system? Wondering if it’s worth buying the pump and stuff and learning to do it to save money in the long run.
Well done on the AC and the video. That was a brilliant decision mounting the compressor and coil separately (thinking outside the box, to coin a phrase). Very concise and detailed video as well. And a cool ass camper! Thanks for taking the time to make this set of videos, most valuable $$$!
Great level of detail especially for the refrigerant section as I've never done that before. Very helpful. I'm probably going to buy a 12v version for my DIY cargo trailer/toy hauler conversion. Thanks!
great vids. i've had a 24v unit just like this sitting around for months for my sprinter van. been hesitant to tackle this install b/c of lack of documentation and instructions, especially on the freon charging aspect. think i'll tackle this soon. thanks!
@@glennr9913 beneath, between the frame rails. There is a good amount of undercarriage space. People add grey water tanks, larger fuel tanks, etc beneath the van as well.
@@outsidenomad one more question… did you need to add any oil for the compressor when initially installed? Or do these units come pre oiled/run oiless unlike belt driven compressors?
Good review on this system. However referring to amp hours as amps is driving me up a wall. Ah = stored energy capacity A = the speed at which you are currently using that capacity
I just learned about these little units. The Amazon listing is showing a 13500 BTU cooling capability but also says 2300 watts, which is only about 8000 BTU comparable. I'm really curious about the unit for similar reasons you were... The AC units are huge and I can only think of 1 spot to mount one... Long story short I don't love the location of that 1 spot as it is furthest from our bedroom and I'm not convinced a 12k BTU will easily cool a 30' school bus. One of these smaller units could be mounted much closer to the bedroom. I know it's winter, and you may not have had a great chance to really test the system, but I would love updates to know how well it's working and what kind of real cooling you think you are getting out of it.
@@outsidenomad Welll, thats why the BTU output of your unit could really make a big difference. If it is the 13.5k that they claim, then it is 1500 BTU higher than the biggest 110v residential minisplit (which is only 12k).
wow, for that being the fan on high you were easy to hear , normally recordings are much louder than reality so that's awesome! thanks for sharing this.
Thank you for the detailed description! I’ve been thinking about getting a similar unit for my sprinter and your video helped push me towards it being a good idea. It’s hard to find much info about these online!
@@ismaellopez6392 Yes, I have had one installed for a year and have been very happy with it. I have the compressor and condenser on a custom bracket underneath the van (like this video I am also not using the provided housing). The evaporator and blower are hidden under the bed and piped to 4 vents (2 at a seating area and 2 above the bed) and the intake for the blower has an air filter fitted to it. Generally, it works really well but there is definitely a temperature gradient between sitting near the vents and being further away, but this is more of a van insulation and airflow issue more than anything to do with the AC. The important part is it keeps the temperature comfortable (
Many thanks for your informative video. I have been looking at these battery driven units and wondering about their effectiveness. I think I will take the plunge now and install one in my camper truck. Rudi, South Africa.
Great! Was looking at this for my build: an HJ45 Land Cruiser pickup that will get a camper top. If it cools that behemoth, it should certainly cool my little camper along with the cab!! Subscribed!
Great video! I bought this exact unit to install on my ambulance RV. I have 400Ah of lithium batteries with both 200W solar panels and the van's alternator to charge the batteries. We only plan on using this unit overnight (~8hrs). Does 400Ah seem reasonable for overnight use? I don't have any other draws on the battery. Thanks!
Great video. Thanks for sharing it with us. We need an A/C unit for our van. I think a rooftop version would be better for us. They seem to cost a bit more but don't require charging with freon, so that saves the need for the vacuum pump & gauges and the bottles of freon.
You could always take the finished setup to an automotive shop and pay them to charge the system for you. Absolutely no different compared to charging the vehicle's own system and most of the cost will be for the refrigerant, no matter who does it.
That’s one of the first condenser coils that I’ve seen the liquid line out the top and not out the bottom. Are you sure that’s the way the manufacturer wanted it? You need to read up your units of power, energy, current, capacity, etc.
@@outsidenomad it will be as long as you don't let it freeze, I drained mine but somehow not all the water came out I think they make some kind of antifreeze you can put in them might be a good Idaya
Hey, I found your summary of the energy consumption a little confusing because it seemed when you said amps or watts you meant amp hours or watt hours? Maybe I need to listen to it again
So if something is pulling 15 amps or say 300 watts and you kept that running for one hour that would be 15 amp hours or 300 watt hours. Does that make sense?
I notice you have Installed the "radiator" 180° upside-down. You mentioned emailing the distributor about mounting it at a 90° angle from oem placement, did you ever hear back from them? How well is the unit working, installed upside-down?
I’m glad I found this channel. I had a question. How long will it roughly run on a 12v system with 4 100ah batteries connected parallel? I would appreciate the help
Thanks for checking it out. As you saw in the video it used roughly 350 watts per hour to run. This will be on the low end as it was not very hot and this was a 24v system which is more efficient. All depends on how cold you like it. At 12 volts a 100 Ah battery has 1200 watts. So 4,800 total watts you have. If it’s lithium you can use roughly 4000 of that. Divide 350 into that and you get about 11.5 hours of run time. Hope that helps.
@@outsidenomad That's nice to hear. listen bud I wanna have this thing under the camper I live in and I was thinking on putting the heat exchange coil under the camper and having the pump a few inches lower then it so oil don't get up into the coil. You think this would work. I understand most people say that it needs to be upright.
Great video, very informative. I’m planning mounting the fan unit under my 1977 Chevy G20 between a couple of cross members. Would you mind measuring the length, width and depth of yours, I’m dealing with very tight quarters but I’m not sure where else it would look right. Thanks
No need for a soft start. These are nothing like the energy hogs of traditional rv ac’s. Your system just needs to handle 30-70 amps depending on your voltage.
Hi! Thanks for your videos! I wanted to ask if you think this air conditioner has enough power to effectively cool a van's cabin during trips. Your insights would be very helpful!
There are some really good adhesives on the market, but are you sure that glueing the condenser/fan onto the house is the best way? My concern is the heat generated by the engine could compromise the glue over the long run. Why not mount four nutzerts into the house and bolt the condenser/fan into place along with the adhesive strips??
@@outsidenomad I was worried about this part too and thought maybe you would have used a full piece between the two brackets to spread the load even more. But I guess it’s probably good to go based on your experience with the adhesives so far.
Nice video. Have you ever tried running it off just your battery’s? Also and how many hours have you ran it before they go dead. I’m trying to install one on my semi but I usually sleep about 8 hours in the truck and is usually at night so the sun isn’t out and it’s not that hot. But just wanna make sure it’s not gonna make my truck go dead when parked while sleeping.
@@outsidenomad ok. Yea I wanna install on my semi truck. But before I do I wanna know how much power it would drain and if someone has had some experience with it in a semi.
@@_gmjc_ As I mentioned in the video it was using about 350 watts per hour. So you just need to figure out how big your batteries are and run some numbers to see how long it would last on your battery system. I have a lot of battery and can run the AC for over 40 hours straight on battery without solar.
Don’t know if you installed one on your semi truck yet, but I have one on my semi truck. You will need to install 4 additional batteries or have IdleSmart/Opti Idle installed. There’s no way to run this unit with just 4 batteries alone for 8 hours straight. You also should do the math using the highest rated watt’s because if you do the lowest watt power, you will find yourself underpowered in high heat area’s such as Texas/Arizona/Nevada when temperatures reach 100 degrees but feels like 110 degrees. For example, you have just 4 100ah AGM batteries. The AC unit draws 960 watts max. That’s 4,800 amp hours divided by 960 watts per hour. That would give you only less than 5 hours until your batteries are dead. With AGM/GEL/SLA batteries, you should never take them down below 50%. Now your numbers look more like 2,400 amps hours divided by 960 watts per hour. That like less than 2 and hours before you need to recharge or have IdleSmart/Opti Idle kick in to keep your batteries above 50%. What about the additional 4 batteries? Well the same principle applies because your not going to run those 4 additional batteries in parallel with your main batteries. Your going to use a DC to DC charger which keeps your main batteries charged so you can still start your truck when your 10 hour rest break ends. To get a full 10 hours without ever having to start your truck during a 10 hour rest break would require 8 batteries in addition to your main batteries. Or, you would have to have another form of power supply like shore power, a gas generator, or solar power. Our trucks don’t have enough roof space for enough solar panels to power this AC for 10 hours. Lastly, there is another option. 2 400 LIfepo4 batteries. You’ll need a DC to DC charger, perhaps some flex solar panels on roof of sleeper, and at least an 300 amp alternator upgrade to charge these 2 LIfepo4 batteries while you drive. The 400ah LIfepo4 batteries aren’t cheap nor are they small. You could build a battery bay under your bunk to house the batteries and protect them from the weather. This option would give a completely engine off, no idle, 10 hours of silent rest. But it’s also the most expensive option to build. Your talking well over $4,000 to build, not including solar panel costs. I’m happy with IdleSmart and my 12v AC using my main battery supply. My truck starts on average every 2 to 3 hours and I have it programmed to run for 1 hour each start cycle. In 100 degree Texas heat, my truck stays 75 degrees during the day and drops to 65 degrees at night. I have it paired with a smart AC remote that I have programmed to set temperatures. I never wake-up to a dead battery and I have a backup through IdleSmart that if my AC fails, IdleSmart kicks on to keep my truck 70 degrees all year long. Even when I’m away from my truck, the inside of my truck is always 70 degrees or less. IdleSmart will start and shut down the engine without the key in the ignition so you can leave your truck for weeks. You program it and it does it. This is the option I chose.
@@Btween2 well dang you definitely did your research and some testing. Thank you for the info. I have not yet got one because I’m hesitant about it. But now that you explain this definitely something to think about.
Hello! thanks for the detailed explanation? you say in the vid that the cooling air is frigid, what is the temperature of the air when set to minimum temp?
Really great Video, thanks for explaining it really well. i have just bought a very similar one but the condensing unit is a bit basic. can i ask a quick question please. You mounted the compressor on the exterior of the vehicle? so you don't need it to be water proof? if so i might do the same. i have a Sprinter i'm Converting. Thanks again!
Thanks for the detailed video. Curious after a year of it being installed, how is it functioning for you? I am in Florida during the summers, and looking for a solution for a Transit Van Build. Thank you.
The best, most helpful video I've seen on these 12v systems, Been looking at one for my diy retirement van, currently underway. One question: what did you do for condensate drain? (I'm thinking about getting catching in a 2 gallon can for extra water.)
Thank you for the informative video. I was just curious because I didn't recall if you mentioned or not the amount of compressor needed oil or if they added that from the factory?
@Outside Nomad Could you please test how many amps are drawn at startup. I was thinking of installing an "easy start switch" so a small Honda 12 gen. could be used if needed, but don't know if that is even necessary with this 12 v unit. Any thought's ? Thanks
Awesome install dude. Do you know if the condenser can be undermounted underneath a van? How do you think it would holdup to environmental conditions? rain, rock chips etc.
There is a way to mount it underneath but I would reach out to the manufacturer to get specifics. I think it would hold up fine. The only concern would be the plastic fan.
This compressor and condenser can be installed at any angle at all, including upside down under the vehicle. Just beware of mud spray etc. under there, and if installing on a roof beware that you must clean the fan and condenser often since it will be wide open vertically.
What type of glue did you use for your brackets? I intend to put the same unit on the back of my semi without removing the compressor. I thought I'd use an all purpose JB Weld and 4 self tapping screws on each side. Would you concur that is efficient?
Hello. How much oil and what kind did you add to the coolant to protect the internal mechanical parts of the compressor? Thank you for reply in advance.
Will this unit heat as well? Looking to replace the line voltage heat pump that came with my overland camper. Not sure WHAT they were thinking as the camper cam with 200w of solar - which will not run the heater/ac.
![Run Away - Tzuyu(TWICE) ツウィ 쯔위 [Music Bank] | KBS WORLD TV 240906](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KnHNNyAYiu0/mqdefault.jpg)
After you vacuum the unit close the gauges and attach refrigerant to the yellow hose and open the refrigerant. After you open the refrigerant crack the other end of the yellow hose to let out any air in the yellow hose. Close the yellow hose after just barely letting out a little Freon. Leave system off and open the high side valve and put as much of the Freon in that will go in. The reason for this is the refrigerant is in a liquid state and you don’t want to flood the compressor from the suction side. After the system takes what Freon will go in with the system off turn off the high side”red” valve on the gauges. Turn system on and finish charging unit from the suction side”blue” valve on the gauge. This is standard procedure for any ac. I have been doing hvac for 20 years and it doesn’t seem to hurt the system the way he did it but he will have a slight amount of ambient air in the system from the yellow hose which in the long run will create problems. And starting the system with no Freon isn’t good. Just my 2 cents
hello, thanks for the explanation, what kind of problems would cause to let some ambient air from the yellow hose?
@@cusber Any ambient air the gets in the system is going to be what is called a non-condensible...takes up space in the system and affects the cooling capacity, and will cause fluctuations in the pressures. also, the ambient air has a certain amount of moisture content. also a non-condensible...this moisture is water and water is also not compressible. so when a pocket of moisture gets to the compressor, it will throw things off. also when moisture and certain refrigerant oils come together, it can create acidic conditions that can eventually corrode and cause leaks or other issues. not saying any of this will happen...but the possibilities are there.
and a compressor should never really be energized while in a state of vacuum.
as another note for the video poster...the negative side of the low pressure gauge isn't measuring PSI. It is measuring a unit of vacuum known as inches of mercury. Ideally, without a digital micron gauge, using these analog gauges only, you should be getting that down to the -29 inches of mercury mark if you have a good sealed system. if its not getting down, you have a leak somewhere...anywhere in the system itself all the way back to your gauges and vacuum pump. OR you still have moisture in the system and you need to let the vacuum pump continue to run however long it may take to boil off remaining moisture.
Thank you for the good explanation. This should be a big help. Wish I had taken an AC course when I had the chance in Junior College. I used to only pay $13 a credit for classes!!!!
You took the words right out of my mouth. I kinda cringed seeing him turning can upside down pumping liquid into the low side. Sometimes people get lucky
You can charge as a liquid into the high side before starting the system without any damage.
Thanks for sharing your exprience with the unit. We also have this mounted, in 12V version, using it actually for a couple of months so far. We wanted to be able to live/travel along with our guinea pigs therefore AC was a must if we ever wanted to go on a hike during summer. It serves its purpose really well, we typically set the target temperature to 26-27 Celsius degrees and on fan speed level 1 and it's keeping it steadily. We have a 30A MPPT controller and ~1kW of solar panels on the roof to feed it, so during the day it's covering almost whole load of the AC. We're looking into an upgrade to 70A MPPT which should give us guarantee of covering AC needs for power during sunny days. Cheers!
I just ordered the 12vdc version, thanks for your input on what I should expect on power usage when it's installed and running. I figured I will be needing to add about 600w more of solar panels if I want to lower my dependence on my generator to charge the batteries.. My travel trailer is only 20ft, but I believe I can find a way to make 1kw of solar panels fit.
Having a 30A MPPT with 1KW solar surely is a huge bottle neck you are not utilizing maximum of your solar panels plus 30A MPPT may blow up at these loads.
Should purge charge line of air at gage connection prior to actually charging system. Don’t want reintroduce air after vacuuming. Great review.
That makes sense thanks for the tip.
Great work on the power test section at the end. You answered so many of my questions and were specific enough to keep me focused in on what you were saying but not like overkill mode like some video can be haha! Much appreciated man! Thanks for your content
Thanks for the info. You are about the only one in North America that so far has given a review on one of these specific a/c systems. I just ordered the 12v version that had the added 800w heater built into the air handler for about 50 bucks more. This will be going into my 20ft Keystone Passport ROV 173 travel trailer and will be running it on a bank of 3-240ah (720ah total) Lithium iron batteries with 400w of solar panels on the roof to start with. No doubt, I might need to add another 200w of panels. The main goal, is to at least be able to keep the travel trailer cool during quiet hours at a given campground when dry camping atnd top off the batteries with a generator during the day if the solar system isn't keeping up. I will update when I have my 12v a/c system running.
Right on! I really like the heater option I’ve never seen that before. That sounds like a great setup. Let us know how it works out. Our system has been working great.
@@outsidenomad I got the 12v version mini-split installed tonight. No manual was included in this and took me a couple hours of troubleshooting the failed vacuum test to learn that the small and large size "O" rings inside the parts bag, was needed to be placed on the refrigerant fittings on the air handler. I message the Amazon vendor to tell him that he needs to get me a manual if he wants a more positive review, which is said he will get me one in a couple days.
The initial settings are showing this drawing just over 49 amps on high a/c setting and will taper off around 25-30amps when reaching the set temperature. Without a manual and the buttons being in Chinese, it was a hit and miss several times with the buttons, before I finally got the electric heater running. Initial impressions with the heater were ok, but doubt I would want to be in artic temps trying to warm up my camper with it, hopefully I get a manual and better understand how to make it work better. I can certainly see it take a chill out of the air in the camper when outside temps are around 40-50 degrees F.
I'll be running the a/c overnight in my camper and check on it when I wake up in the morning. I wish I had a way to send yo some pics of how I installed it on a slide out of a 20ft travel trailer.
which one did you use that also has heat? you got a link?
@@DgGh0stKilla It's only an 800w heater, it'll take the chill out of the camper, but don't expect it to provide toasty heat in freezing temps.
Great video, really helpful to gauge what these will draw!
Something that I did notice was you using "amps" interchangeably with what I assume was "amp-hours". The difference is huge and would help others by discerning between the two.
Amps is instantaneous current, so you would say that it's drawing 24 amps on high load. However after an hour of running on high (ignoring duty cycles) you would say it's pulled 24 amp-hours from your battery as it's a measure of draw over time. As your batteries are rated in amp-hours this is a much more meaningful number.
You can also avoid the translation of 12 volt to 24v by just converting all your units to watts and thus watt-hours (which I'd highly recommend anyone doing math for electrical)
So you'd say that this would be drawing 576 watts (24v x 24a) and over the course of an hour this would my 576 watt-hours, or over the course of 1/2 hour it would be 288 watt-hours
Agreed, I got a little loose with my terminology. Watts is a far better way to go when talking about all this but unfortunately the industry is so biased towards talking in amp hours.
Hey man, this is Tyrone Washington, in the hood we not got a vacuum pump. So I just push nitrogen gas ⛽️ inside the pipes. This will push the oxygen and humidity out. Then I lets the nitrogen out of the pipes, just down to one pound of pressure. Then we push in the 134 feeron.
Works best for the Hood.
I didn’t see a dryer in that system but it will help with longevity.
Not familiar with what that is but I will look it up. Thanks
Thanks for your great video and contribution to us van builders! One minor but important suggestion. When you say "amps" that you've used over time you should be saying Amp-Hours and Watts used over time should be "watt-hours" Amps and Watts are both instantaneous measures. There is no such thing as "I sued 300 watts over 30 minutes (that would 150-watt-hours and there is no such thing as "watts per hour" if you use 600 Watts for 30 minutes that's "300 Watt-Hours" (Not watts "per" hour") if you use 25 amps for 30 minutes that's "12.5 Amp-Hours". Think of it like person-days - if two people work for a 2 days that's 4 person-days - not 4 persons "per" day.
Agreed, thanks for pointing that out
I like amps over watts personally
please post a long-term update I've been looking at this very unit. wondering how it lasts in the long run
great video
Just so we on the same page, vacuum is measured in inches of mercury or Microns not PSI. There is no such thing as negative pressure minus indicates below atmospheric pressure
pressure is always positive no matter how low it is.😅
You are Correct
Awesome review! I just watched part 1, and I'm convinced I want to get one of these for my skoolie. I've got a 28-ft bus, and it came with 2 factory units, but they function more like fans than ACs. So, I'm hoping to rip those out and install 2 of these instead. The power use would be much lower and the price is the best I've found so far for a 12v AC. Would love a 1-year review of how the unit's been holding up.
Same, I have a handicap bus that I’ve converted into a work van/bus for my profession and the bus doesn’t have rear air, so I’m wondering how this will manage. I’m assuming I’ll be able to run this but with an inverter pulling power as well, I’m not exactly sure what all he’s saying means. I’m assuming I’m gonna need a few batteries?
I'm torn between a less expensive home unit and a mini split. But this provided a ton of useful information
Happy to help and the system is still working great for us.
Don't do the mini split on a moving vehicle. They're not designed to be bumped around. I've had 2 fail ok me. Now I'm here researching 12v systems to replace my mini split lol
@@averybasch Thanks. How did you have them mounted?
The mini-splits designed for semis like this one are plenty rugged
@averybasch
Hey Brother
Can you teach me, what failed??
Thank you for making this video.
FYI there's a difference between Amps (A) which is a rate, and Amp hours (Ah) which is a quantity, same thing with Watt's (W) and Watt hours (Wh)
There is no such thing as Watts per hour.
Hey man, you are Correct
@@user-kb2bs9hy2v Thanks man.
You drilled into the frame flange? That's a bad idea. Good luck with that. 😊
I cringed when I saw that. Glad I wasn't the only one! Every truck frame rail I've come across has stickers warning not to drill the flange.
Hey man, you are Correct
wow 21C is too cold for me! i set my AC @ 25C but w/o a shirt on ^^
Glad I found your videos. Good job documenting! Another option could be a 110v mini split with a high SEER. I see their ratings vary from 16 to 26. I know there is a 15% inverter penalty going from 110 to 12 but if the unit had only a 15% better SEER it would then be more efficient, right? I didn't see any any SEER listed for this 12/24 model, and wouldn't trust one if they did publish it.
Finally, a complete video about this type of A.C. !
I just found you and instantly subscribed just for that.
I am looking forward to see a wattage consumption test at much hoter temperatures (like 40 celsius dg).
I still have some weeks to decide between buying a 230V AC mini split or this 24V Dc.
The all day ON inverter scares me a lot, so that means I have to switch it Off every time I leave the camper, so I can't let the A.C. low runing from solar.
The heating option is a plus for the AC minisplit, but the exterior unit is not modular and eats a lot of interior space since I would want to enclose it in a slide out box ( for stealth-ish look reasons).
I wish they make a 24V DC air with heating pump, too..
Safe travels!
Yup did that every time I recharged the system.
How often do you need to recharge the same system? Wondering if it’s worth buying the pump and stuff and learning to do it to save money in the long run.
Ideally you’d never have to recharge it. The only way they lose refrigerant is a leak.
Well done on the AC and the video. That was a brilliant decision mounting the compressor and coil separately (thinking outside the box, to coin a phrase). Very concise and detailed video as well. And a cool ass camper! Thanks for taking the time to make this set of videos, most valuable $$$!
Thank you!
Excellent very comprehensive work , thanks
great info bought the 12v version for my motorhome it has not a/c at all price now is 360 euro
Great idea to separate out the outdoor compressor and fan coil.
Yes, thanks
Great level of detail especially for the refrigerant section as I've never done that before. Very helpful. I'm probably going to buy a 12v version for my DIY cargo trailer/toy hauler conversion. Thanks!
Happy to help thanks
I'd like to learn more about your install. That's what I'd like to install in a future van build. Thank you for posting!!!
No problem 👍
ruclips.net/video/e6fUVhC9bJM/видео.htmlsi=cbU9gL8MQ1SaLKhW
great vids. i've had a 24v unit just like this sitting around for months for my sprinter van. been hesitant to tackle this install b/c of lack of documentation and instructions, especially on the freon charging aspect. think i'll tackle this soon. thanks!
Right on! Get that puppy installed. Everything you need to charge it can be rented.
How are you mounting this type on a van? I'd think that you need a rooftop version.
@@glennr9913 beneath, between the frame rails. There is a good amount of undercarriage space. People add grey water tanks, larger fuel tanks, etc beneath the van as well.
@@outsidenomad one more question… did you need to add any oil for the compressor when initially installed? Or do these units come pre oiled/run oiless unlike belt driven compressors?
@@gawdzilla123 Where are you planning to mount the interior unit?
You split the split....nice :)
Thanks for using watts....much easier to digest for those of us with a different voltage system.
cIm so glad that it is working so well. I noticed that as you changed the fan speed, the motor went up the chromatic scale 🤩!! REALLY cool. Ha Ha
Good review on this system. However referring to amp hours as amps is driving me up a wall.
Ah = stored energy capacity
A = the speed at which you are currently using that capacity
Excellent video!! Also you can get a free loaner for the a/c manifold gauges and vacuum pump at either autozone or O'Reilly auto part stores.
Oh perfect! Thanks for letting folks know.
Did you discuss the Oil for the system anywhere in the video? Proper oil amount is vital to the compressor
Now it would be great if it had. A heat pump! That takes care of summer and winter issue.
Agreed, I'd like to learn how to add that functionality.
I just learned about these little units. The Amazon listing is showing a 13500 BTU cooling capability but also says 2300 watts, which is only about 8000 BTU comparable. I'm really curious about the unit for similar reasons you were... The AC units are huge and I can only think of 1 spot to mount one... Long story short I don't love the location of that 1 spot as it is furthest from our bedroom and I'm not convinced a 12k BTU will easily cool a 30' school bus. One of these smaller units could be mounted much closer to the bedroom. I know it's winter, and you may not have had a great chance to really test the system, but I would love updates to know how well it's working and what kind of real cooling you think you are getting out of it.
@@outsidenomad Welll, thats why the BTU output of your unit could really make a big difference. If it is the 13.5k that they claim, then it is 1500 BTU higher than the biggest 110v residential minisplit (which is only 12k).
wow, for that being the fan on high you were easy to hear , normally recordings are much louder than reality so that's awesome!
thanks for sharing this.
Super good job, bro!
Okay... I think I'm going to try one of these out on a smaller like Astrovan that only has one rear area window to minimize heat transfer.
Thank you for the detailed description! I’ve been thinking about getting a similar unit for my sprinter and your video helped push me towards it being a good idea. It’s hard to find much info about these online!
Glad it was helpful!
Did you finally install one like this in your Sprinter? I have one without air conditioner on the cabin and I'm considering to buy one like this
@@ismaellopez6392 Yes, I have had one installed for a year and have been very happy with it. I have the compressor and condenser on a custom bracket underneath the van (like this video I am also not using the provided housing). The evaporator and blower are hidden under the bed and piped to 4 vents (2 at a seating area and 2 above the bed) and the intake for the blower has an air filter fitted to it.
Generally, it works really well but there is definitely a temperature gradient between sitting near the vents and being further away, but this is more of a van insulation and airflow issue more than anything to do with the AC. The important part is it keeps the temperature comfortable (
Not A bad draw. Thanks for the demo.
Looking at using one of these in my next build. Thanks for the detailed breakdown !
No problem 👍 glad it was helpful
Thanks so much for the very helpful info and demo.
Excellent tutorial/explanation. Thanks
My pleasure glad it was helpful.
Many thanks for your informative video. I have been looking at these battery driven units and wondering about their effectiveness. I think I will take the plunge now and install one in my camper truck. Rudi, South Africa.
Great! Was looking at this for my build: an HJ45 Land Cruiser pickup that will get a camper top. If it cools that behemoth, it should certainly cool my little camper along with the cab!!
Subscribed!
Sounds like a great build. Thanks
Great video! I bought this exact unit to install on my ambulance RV. I have 400Ah of lithium batteries with both 200W solar panels and the van's alternator to charge the batteries. We only plan on using this unit overnight (~8hrs). Does 400Ah seem reasonable for overnight use? I don't have any other draws on the battery. Thanks!
Make sure you put refrigerant oil on all your O rings so you won’t damage the O rings and may cause a leak.
That's a great point thanks!
is that what they mean in the manual. to put the oil on the rings? does this help? thx!
Great video. Thanks for sharing it with us.
We need an A/C unit for our van. I think a rooftop version would be better for us. They seem to cost a bit more but don't require charging with freon, so that saves the need for the vacuum pump & gauges and the bottles of freon.
The DC powered rooftops AC's are great and like you said make installation really easy.
Still working?
You could always take the finished setup to an automotive shop and pay them to charge the system for you. Absolutely no different compared to charging the vehicle's own system and most of the cost will be for the refrigerant, no matter who does it.
great comprehensive review. awesome
Thank you
That’s one of the first condenser coils that I’ve seen the liquid line out the top and not out the bottom. Are you sure that’s the way the manufacturer wanted it?
You need to read up your units of power, energy, current, capacity, etc.
nice looks like the way to go been looking at these for a while first revue I have seen on one
@@outsidenomad it will be as long as you don't let it freeze, I drained mine but somehow not all the water came out I think they make some kind of antifreeze you can put in them might be a good Idaya
@@outsidenomad oh sorry got this conversation Mixed up with a different one I was having about a water heater
Hey, I found your summary of the energy consumption a little confusing because it seemed when you said amps or watts you meant amp hours or watt hours? Maybe I need to listen to it again
So if something is pulling 15 amps or say 300 watts and you kept that running for one hour that would be 15 amp hours or 300 watt hours. Does that make sense?
I notice you have Installed the "radiator" 180° upside-down. You mentioned emailing the distributor about mounting it at a 90° angle from oem placement, did you ever hear back from them?
How well is the unit working, installed upside-down?
The PAG oil is miscible with the r134a refrigerant, so it makes no difference what angle the condenser is installed.
Thank you it is working perfectly...
Nice!
How big is your battery pack and how many hours you can run your ac before it's drain out
Looks like it worked great.
It does!
I’m glad I found this channel. I had a question. How long will it roughly run on a 12v system with 4 100ah batteries connected parallel? I would appreciate the help
Thanks for checking it out. As you saw in the video it used roughly 350 watts per hour to run. This will be on the low end as it was not very hot and this was a 24v system which is more efficient. All depends on how cold you like it.
At 12 volts a 100 Ah battery has 1200 watts. So 4,800 total watts you have. If it’s lithium you can use roughly 4000 of that. Divide 350 into that and you get about 11.5 hours of run time.
Hope that helps.
Good work Man! You explained it so well.
@@outsidenomad yes you could have.
Awesome demo and set up!
Thanks glad you enjoyed it. Been really happy with it so far.
So far how is that AC unit working for you guys?
It’s been great no problems whatsoever.
@@outsidenomad That's nice to hear. listen bud I wanna have this thing under the camper I live in and I was thinking on putting the heat exchange coil under the camper and having the pump a few inches lower then it so oil don't get up into the coil. You think this would work. I understand most people say that it needs to be upright.
Great video, thanks for sharing
My pleasure
You must have been a machine shop worker or an HVAC dude 😎
Not at all I’d never done anything like this before.
never drill any frame rail flanges. It dramaticly makes the frame much weaker
Great video, very informative. I’m planning mounting the fan unit under my 1977 Chevy G20 between a couple of cross members. Would you mind measuring the length, width and depth of yours, I’m dealing with very tight quarters but I’m not sure where else it would look right. Thanks
Finally about to install mine! Did you have to put a Softstart into your electrical system for this unit, or does it run fine without one?
No need for a soft start. These are nothing like the energy hogs of traditional rv ac’s. Your system just needs to handle 30-70 amps depending on your voltage.
Great, thank you so much!
Hi! Thanks for your videos! I wanted to ask if you think this air conditioner has enough power to effectively cool a van's cabin during trips. Your insights would be very helpful!
Still going strong? I'm considering, but lots of bad reviews too.
Did you add oil to the ac compressor
i have the same question. In the manual it says you have to add oil (POE68)!
There are some really good adhesives on the market, but are you sure that glueing the condenser/fan onto the house is the best way? My concern is the heat generated by the engine could compromise the glue over the long run. Why not mount four nutzerts into the house and bolt the condenser/fan into place along with the adhesive strips??
@@outsidenomad I was worried about this part too and thought maybe you would have used a full piece between the two brackets to spread the load even more. But I guess it’s probably good to go based on your experience with the adhesives so far.
Nice video. Have you ever tried running it off just your battery’s? Also and how many hours have you ran it before they go dead. I’m trying to install one on my semi but I usually sleep about 8 hours in the truck and is usually at night so the sun isn’t out and it’s not that hot. But just wanna make sure it’s not gonna make my truck go dead when parked while sleeping.
I only run it off our battery but I have A LOT of battery. You’d have to just run the numbers for your battery setup as it will vary greatly
@@outsidenomad ok. Yea I wanna install on my semi truck. But before I do I wanna know how much power it would drain and if someone has had some experience with it in a semi.
@@_gmjc_ As I mentioned in the video it was using about 350 watts per hour. So you just need to figure out how big your batteries are and run some numbers to see how long it would last on your battery system. I have a lot of battery and can run the AC for over 40 hours straight on battery without solar.
Don’t know if you installed one on your semi truck yet, but I have one on my semi truck. You will need to install 4 additional batteries or have IdleSmart/Opti Idle installed. There’s no way to run this unit with just 4 batteries alone for 8 hours straight. You also should do the math using the highest rated watt’s because if you do the lowest watt power, you will find yourself underpowered in high heat area’s such as Texas/Arizona/Nevada when temperatures reach 100 degrees but feels like 110 degrees. For example, you have just 4 100ah AGM batteries. The AC unit draws 960 watts max. That’s 4,800 amp hours divided by 960 watts per hour. That would give you only less than 5 hours until your batteries are dead. With AGM/GEL/SLA batteries, you should never take them down below 50%. Now your numbers look more like 2,400 amps hours divided by 960 watts per hour. That like less than 2 and hours before you need to recharge or have IdleSmart/Opti Idle kick in to keep your batteries above 50%.
What about the additional 4 batteries? Well the same principle applies because your not going to run those 4 additional batteries in parallel with your main batteries. Your going to use a DC to DC charger which keeps your main batteries charged so you can still start your truck when your 10 hour rest break ends.
To get a full 10 hours without ever having to start your truck during a 10 hour rest break would require 8 batteries in addition to your main batteries. Or, you would have to have another form of power supply like shore power, a gas generator, or solar power. Our trucks don’t have enough roof space for enough solar panels to power this AC for 10 hours.
Lastly, there is another option. 2 400 LIfepo4 batteries. You’ll need a DC to DC charger, perhaps some flex solar panels on roof of sleeper, and at least an 300 amp alternator upgrade to charge these 2 LIfepo4 batteries while you drive. The 400ah LIfepo4 batteries aren’t cheap nor are they small. You could build a battery bay under your bunk to house the batteries and protect them from the weather. This option would give a completely engine off, no idle, 10 hours of silent rest. But it’s also the most expensive option to build. Your talking well over $4,000 to build, not including solar panel costs.
I’m happy with IdleSmart and my 12v AC using my main battery supply. My truck starts on average every 2 to 3 hours and I have it programmed to run for 1 hour each start cycle. In 100 degree Texas heat, my truck stays 75 degrees during the day and drops to 65 degrees at night. I have it paired with a smart AC remote that I have programmed to set temperatures. I never wake-up to a dead battery and I have a backup through IdleSmart that if my AC fails, IdleSmart kicks on to keep my truck 70 degrees all year long. Even when I’m away from my truck, the inside of my truck is always 70 degrees or less. IdleSmart will start and shut down the engine without the key in the ignition so you can leave your truck for weeks. You program it and it does it. This is the option I chose.
@@Btween2 well dang you definitely did your research and some testing. Thank you for the info. I have not yet got one because I’m hesitant about it. But now that you explain this definitely something to think about.
Has yours ever thrown a over current code?? Mine is throwing that if i set the fan higher than 2
Did your unit come with an expansion valve you needed to install?
Hello! thanks for the detailed explanation? you say in the vid that the cooling air is frigid, what is the temperature of the air when set to minimum temp?
I don't know and unfortunately don't have any sort of thermometer with me. It will cool the space down to 60 degrees on a 100+ degree day.
They need a heat pump version of this.
I appreciate the detailed measurements for power draw/usage. What is the LxWxD or cubed area this A/C is cooling? Thanks!
It's basically 14'x6'x7' in a very well insulated box
Would it improve efficiency if the lines were insulated? HOw far was the run from the power source? Was it a bus terminal?
Insulating the lines is a great idea and something I plan to do. My run to power was about 14 feet.
Will this system be good for a school bus?
Really great Video, thanks for explaining it really well. i have just bought a very similar one but the condensing unit is a bit basic. can i ask a quick question please. You mounted the compressor on the exterior of the vehicle? so you don't need it to be water proof? if so i might do the same. i have a Sprinter i'm Converting. Thanks again!
All of the outside components are designed to be outside and handle weather. So yes that can all be mounted outside wherever you need.
Is this system still working ?
Has it needed any repairs ?
Hello, how has it been with the air conditioning? Is it recommended for a semi truck?
Thanks for the detailed video. Curious after a year of it being installed, how is it functioning for you? I am in Florida during the summers, and looking for a solution for a Transit Van Build. Thank you.
It's still working great. I've mostly been using here in Arizona.
how did you guys turn the voltage settings
Very good review! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
What BTU is it? What battery Bank and solar what's are needed to run in 9 hours? Did it cool the camper to 75d while 95d outside?
Yes it will cool down to 75. Not sure what the BTU are. That's a tough question on the battery and solar needs. Too many variables.
The best, most helpful video I've seen on these 12v systems, Been looking at one for my diy retirement van, currently underway. One question: what did you do for condensate drain? (I'm thinking about getting catching in a 2 gallon can for extra water.)
It actually comes with a condensation drain that I just ran outside
Thank you for the informative video. I was just curious because I didn't recall if you mentioned or not the amount of compressor needed oil or if they added that from the factory?
Ahh, I see you already answered in the previous questions that is is in fact pre charged with oil. Again, thanks for the video.
How long will it last on an 100ah battery??? And what size solar panels will run it ?????
Two to three hours depending on settings
@Outside Nomad Could you please test how many amps are drawn at startup. I was thinking of installing an "easy start switch" so a small Honda 12 gen. could be used if needed, but don't know if that is even necessary with this 12 v unit. Any thought's ? Thanks
There’s not much of a surge I get like 45 amps at 24v so maybe 90 at 12 volt
@@outsidenomad Wow, just what I was wanting to hear, the name brand easy start switches average about $230. Muchas gracias!
can these be mounted in a horizontal orientation? I would consider mounting it beneath the body on my van.
Does it not require oil in the system? I just assume it would based on my auto experience but could be different because it’s not a car
@@outsidenomad but wouldn’t the vacuum pump suck out the oil since it sucks moisture/liquid?
@@outsidenomad fair, can’t wait to see a longer term review
Awesome install dude.
Do you know if the condenser can be undermounted underneath a van? How do you think it would holdup to environmental conditions? rain, rock chips etc.
There is a way to mount it underneath but I would reach out to the manufacturer to get specifics. I think it would hold up fine. The only concern would be the plastic fan.
Thanks for sharing do you mind sharing what the name of that system is
Great install! Do you know if the condenser/rad has to be mounted vertically, or can it be horizontal ?
This compressor and condenser can be installed at any angle at all, including upside down under the vehicle. Just beware of mud spray etc. under there, and if installing on a roof beware that you must clean the fan and condenser often since it will be wide open vertically.
What is the size of your battery bank?
Question - How much 134a and how much oil for your system.
This system came pre-oiled so no oil was needed. It took two bottles of 134a.
Thanks for the video as my unit did not come with a manual. Did the compressor come with oil in it or did you add it in? Thanks again.
My unit came with oil already in the compressor.
What type of glue did you use for your brackets? I intend to put the same unit on the back of my semi without removing the compressor. I thought I'd use an all purpose JB Weld and 4 self tapping screws on each side. Would you concur that is efficient?
I used a specific glue that is designed to bond with my particular camper box. It might be worth testing different glues to see what works best.
Checking to see if you hooked this system up in your semi truck... I'm looking to do the same and have done questions... Let me know... Thanks...
Great results and thanks for the explanation. Question: Was there not some sort of oil to add to the refrigerant lines?
This particular unit was pre-oiled
Hello. How much oil and what kind did you add to the coolant to protect the internal mechanical parts of the compressor? Thank you for reply in advance.
The unit was pre-oiled per the manufacturer so they said adding oil was not necessary.
Will this unit heat as well? Looking to replace the line voltage heat pump that came with my overland camper. Not sure WHAT they were thinking as the camper cam with 200w of solar - which will not run the heater/ac.
Can you give us your opinion after having it for a year? Still meeting your expectations? Also, how long can you run it on your batteries?
The AC is still working great. i have a 15kwh battery so it would run that AC for days but the issue would be how to charge them back up.
I want this for a boat I’m restoring , it’s a small cabin. Just a couch and a bed , what’s the lowest temp it goes ?
It's not really about the set temp as the lowest temp would depend on conditions. 65 degrees hasn't been a problem for us on 100+ degree days.
@@outsidenomad gotcha thanks for the reply 65-70f would be my preferred temp for sleeping throughout the night