Crafted Workshop...... Now IF ONLY I wasnt so damn old and recently had a stroke this would be exactly what I would do! What a cool ass idea and hey...can I hire you to do this for me? LOL Always thought such wasted space up there, but never found a good and safe design to hang and to trust it stayed there 😳. Need a place to store all my muscle car parts been collecting forever. 😁. Thank you so much for posting this! Y’all did SUCH an awesome job! 👍🏻❤️🤘🏻
If those storage bins are from Home Depot (it looks like it), here is a possible solution for the tight vertical clearance: Lowes has almost identical bins except the dimensions are slightly different. Their 27 gallon bin is 14" high instead of the HD 15" height. The Lowes bins are a little wider but it looks like you have plenty of side room. You can replace some of the lower bins and gain an inch which might be enough. The upper ones that you have will fit on top with no problem. Another bonus is now you have a bunch of extra bins (or return them to HD).
My ceiling joists run parallel to the wall with one being 16.5" away and other about 40.5". If I put ceiling 2x2 at 30.25" there's nothing to grab onto, just drywall. What do you suggest? 40.5" seems to stick out from wall very far.
The most amazing thing in this whole video is that you apparently have a stud finder that actually finds studs. I've tried multiple brands and never found one yet that worked at all.
Using his wood material list it’s about $288 before tax going off of Lowes prices. Not that bad imo but $160 sounds much better. I hope everything eventually goes back to normal.
@@to3634 "gets back to normal" ...best chances are to vote RED --but even then, going to be hard to beat the Non-citizen-, Low informed-, Repeat-, Dead-, Voter ..or the Computer-Hack..
Great vid. But those ceiling joists aren't designed to take a heavy loads if you intend to use them for storage. Keep that in mind when you have trusses above and you're screwing into the bottom chords.
I am a retired long haul driver. building things is something I enjoy. I have a file called DIY in my subscription list. The more I watch, the more I learn. My wife wants to store a years worth of home canned and commercial canned foods, as well as dry goods. I did a quick figuring on it, we are looking at between 1000.00 and 1200.00, if the price of plywood and dimensional lumber stays consistent. I think it will be very much worth it.
When laying out measurements for specific items you plan to store, ALWAYS give yourself extra inches. 2 to 6 inches. You never know when you're going to need that extra space and it can really come in handy. For example, camping supplies in the 2 stacked bins with a nice 5" space above for tucking in and storing a few tarps. Never go for "tight" when laying out measurements for storage shelf or unit. What if bin sizes change? What if what you need to store needs to change? That extra space gives you flexibility and more options. : )
And before the sawdust settles my wife is off to Target because now there’s storage for seasonal throw pillows, cases of pumpkin spice candles, motivational quote decor.
I'm going to do a similar project, but will use 2x4 on the ceiling instead of 2x2. The vertical hanging load on a 2x2 may not be sufficient for that application. There's just not enough surface area, in my opinion. I will also use a large washer on the screws securing the ceiling 2x4 so the load is spread over a wider area, not just the screw head. Other than that, I like the idea.
Vertical pieces of plywood perpendicular to the shelf running from the shelf to the ceiling (and attached to the wall) will strengthen the shelves tremendously. It will also transfer more of the load to the walls, off of the joists/trusses.
I did something very similar but I used 2x3s for the lag into the wall support because it is next to impossible to find 2x2 straight at Lowes or Home Depot. Also used L shaped steel 3x3 hinges to support the brackets
Thank you so much!! I almost bought my husband shelves from amazon and right before I finalized the order I said, let me check youtube first and BAM!!! You're amazing.
OMG so easy! I'm installing these for someone this week. You just saved him and me time of labor to design this. Thanks for the free download! MADE MY DAY!
I greatly appreciate you sharing this information and I will generally mimic what you've done! However, I will with great respect, critique a few things that I believe could be altered to improve the design. The 2x2s mounted to the ceiling seem a bit sub-par, given that the attachments to the vertical 2x4s could be pulling in a way that would separate the grain. I would replace the 2x2s with 2x4s, long side plumb if possible, but even short side plumb would be an improvement, especially when attaching the vert 2x4s with longer screws. This would help resist grain boundry separation of the ceiling mounted lumber. The vertical 2x4s are being used in tension (pulling), which is only an issue because they are fastened so close to the end of the board. However, you seem to have enough of them to hold some load. The addition of some steel mending plates would allow for additional screws further away from the end of the vertical 2x4s. I don't see much wrong with the horizontal wall mounted 2x2s, as they are in compression. However, I would still opt for 2x4s if it doesn't interfere with your plans for below. If you intend to sell the home with the shelves intact, mark them with a ridiculous low rating to cover yourself. I did this before and engraved 1.0 Lb/sq-ft capacity. I imagine that your design will work for you well, but perhaps my advice will help lead future builders towards an overkill mentality. Always a good idea for overhead loads!
@@killerxKING16 I'm saying: if he sells the home and includes the homemade shelves, he opens himself up to legal liability. But, if he marks the shelves with a very low rating, any issue the future homeowner may have, will surely include exceeding his low rating. Once you show a house for sale, you are not allowed to remove anything that is mechanically attached to the home. So, if he were to sell the house and he doesn't want to include the shelves, he would have to remove them before the house is shown. Or he could include some mention that the shelves are not included, in the listing of the house.
It's a nice design. I am going to borrow a bit from this. The only recommendation I have is either to use 3-1/2" screws or make sure you sink your screws into the wall/ceiling mounted 2x2's. When you consider 1-1/2" of 2x2 + 1/2" of drywall, a 3" screw only has max 1" of hold. Especially if this is going to be weight-bearing, 1-1/2" is significantly better. Of course, pre-drilling is very important, too.
I have done the same thing, works great! Only thing I did differently was use 2x3's instead of 2x2's. I drilled a countersink into the 2x3's that were screwed into the ceiling (as not to need extremely long screws).
My husband and I just spent today building this. It was pretty easy EXCEPT... out ceiling joists run the opposite way so we couldnt use studs. It was a CHORE to figure out how to support the beam. Plus... my ceiling is 12 feet high and my husband while being the taller of us is only 5'7. Sooo... Putting up the ceiling beams was really tough. Took several hours and a LOT of cussing. In the end we are thrilled with the results. If anyone is wondering if the plans adjust for the goof in measuring and allows for the bins with the top beam... they DO. We bought the exact same bins and it couldnt be more perfect. I wish I could include a picture. I plan to post a video on my page this week showing us do this build. Thanks for the plans and the video!
Just wanted to say thanks for providing me the motivation to do this in my garage! I have a sloped ceiling at one end of my garage and I built the shelves there. Was difficult as a one-man job but doable by using some clamps to keep things in place. As some others stated, I used lag screws (GRK) and some L brackets to help with some extra sturdiness. Plywood is quite pricey so my project came in around $200 or a little more with the non-wood supplies. Thanks again for clearing up my floor!
I like that this video/ project use tools most diy hobbyist have. A video series of projects with tools that are more accessible for diy would be interesting to watch. Just a suggestion as someone with limited tools to use for projects, love the videos and inspiration to start my own projects.
just used this design for the back wall of my garage. adding some gorilla glue on all the joints makes it really solid. also primed and painted everything after cutting and prior to install, leaving the joint locations bare for better glue adhesion. excellent design. thanks!
Well done. I was able to DIY this without a helper after watching this video. I added 100sf of hanging storage space in my garage. Build took one very long 12 hour workday, but I got it done! So happy with the results.
Looks great I did a similar project however most new construction gargages use very flimsy roof trusses, they are designed to support the roof not hanging objects from them, I fastenened mine into the walls not using the ceiling. but I have a significant amount of weight on mine. Just a word of caution to be aware of. Cheers
I just found this today and actually did something similar over 4 years ago with four foot by four foot by four foot bays allowing me to store 3 stacked bins as well as corner storage for Christmas lights, trees ornaments and decorations above vehicles. Major storage as I was moving from a 5600 sq ft home into a 3000 sq ft home. Lots of labelled and stored containers in the bins above the parking area of the garage. 12 foot ceilings reduced to approx 8 foot below the storage area as well as along both sides of the walls for 18 inch shelving. When completed I used about twice the wood supplies as you did and ended up with twice the storage. Every section reinforced and attached directly to support beams in the walls and ceiling of the garage. If there is ever an earthquake I want to be in the garage below the shelving. It will be the safest location in the whole house and nowhere near any windows or glass.
This project is dangerous because when completed, you realize how much space you just made and you go out and buy a bunch more stuff to fill it back in.
No, it's dangerous because you don't drill holes through walls in your garage without sealing them properly. His entire family will be breathing in carbon monoxide (poison)
I just purchase a new home with a garage 20'x20'x10' and this design is going to work perfectly. Correct me if I'm wrong, I am going to use 2x4's in stead of 2x2's. So I would need to add 2" to each of the 8 2x4 uprights, correct? Even buying 3 2"x4"x10' there will be enough left over to add this extra space.
The shelving units on your back wall have 2x4s going across the plywood, but I don't see you mentioning it in your video. I was wondering why you added that. Was the shelving unit sagging or did you just do that to use up off cuts of lumber?
Screws have really poor shear strength (i.e. if you turn them horizontal and then apply vertical weight to them they will want to snap) so it's great that you added glue later or I would really fear for the contents of the shelf. Great use of space! I really love high up shelves that use otherwise-wasted space like this
Thanks for the idea. I didn't download the plans but I watched the video and went from there. It turned out pretty decent considering the limited area I had to work with.
*Brilliant idea! 🙌 Finally tackling that wasted space above the garage door like a pro. Weekend project, here I come! And you're so right, who knows if that Cybertruck is ever rolling in? 🤷♂ Time to prioritize the garage gains instead! 🛠🚗💨*
The weak point in this design is the top two by two that is bounded to the ceiling. I recommend using large Fender washers on the screws that's drive into the joists in the ceiling
inb4dalock - 👍 yes!! That’s a good fix for what he’s done here. I would have used slotted angle steel (like what holds up garage door tracks, available at any big box store) with bolts instead of a 2x nailer into the joists, since that’s the weakest point. The rest of the construction is fine and spreads the load to the studs. I really like the minimalist design here...I’m Captain Overkill with full 2x4s, 11/16 ply, and GRK fasteners...a tornado might rip our house apart but my damn shelves will still be intact! 🤣 Best plan? Don’t overload...who wants to mess with super-heavy tubs up high anyway?
4 года назад
The screws that hold the 2x2s to the ceiling are supporting almost all of the weight you put on these shelves. Isn’t this too weak?
@ That would be my concern as well, particularly if one doesn't use lag screws or structural screws like GRK RSS fasteners. Heck, I would also use the GRK's to secure any horizontal fixation (like the 2x2's to the wall studs) as the weakness of regular screws is their shear strength. I'm less concerned about the vertical fixation of the 2x2's as a screw's forte in its pullout strength.
Thanks for sharing this, Ive watched it about 20 times and used this method to build my own overhead shelving in my garage. The hardest thing was finding the ceiling joists as my home has a joist and a metal framing grid for the drywall, which made finding wood to drill into a real pain. All in all took about a weekend and Im stoked to have my garage floor back, Cheers !
Great idea for using normally unused space in a garage. However something you may want to consider, you could use wire cable in lieu of 2x4s. All the work done to attach the 2x2 to the ceiling would be eliminated. Using eyebolts would allow attachment to wire cable with turnbuckles to suspend shelving.
Seems like a great idea but could you provide a little more detail for us newbies? For instance, how would you attach the wire cable to the ceiling? Is that the eyebolts? Would they be able to support as much weight as the way it was done in the video? Anyways, thanks so much for the idea!
@@wushufanatic I think eye bolts secured into the ceiling joist would be able to support a substantial load. Stranded cable is rated for a specified load; for safety in overhead uses, you would divide the specified load by 3 or 5 for safety. To assemble the components “U” bolts could be used or cable assembly “crimp-on” components could be used. These parts are also rated for a set load. You gotta calculate exactly what the load capacity of the complete assembly including the parts used to make the shelving.
Thx for sharing. Ive been thinking about doing this but given the price of materials its hard to justify the project without taking a look at what i can buy pre fabed first
Did you factor in as to whether or not the existing framing was substantial enough for the extra weight you were going to be carrying? I had a house and wanted to use the open area above to store "STUFF" was told that was not possible as the roof trusses weren't engineered for significant extra weight. They were fine for "FINISHING" drywall. Or light stuff .... But if I wanted to use it as a storage area I'd need to have the trusses reengineered for greater carrying capacity.
@@johnjacobjinglehimerschmid3555 don't think it's a matter of mass produced houses. The whole point of engineering is to not waste money and effort over building. Having said that, the roof truss is already designed to take significantly more load than you'll ever experience because human safety is involved. To put it another way, the roof is over built but it's unwise to unnecessarily load it with storage.
@@Jaze2022 Glad to see that I'm not the only one up at all hours of the night. IDK ... House I was in ... 2x4 trusses with only those spiky plates at the joints. Specifically, asked the builder if I could enclose it and put a floor down the middle and store stuff to each side ... He was not very enthusiastic about it. So I stored bits of lumber, pipe, and empty boxes ... Put some shelves up along one 1.5 walls and a bench ... ended up being enough.
8:15 , now is 2022 march, so, here in canada, if I getting them from homedepot, cost is 18x$5.68 + 8x$15.58 + 4x$68.98=$502.8 . Just for you guys if you are interested for current price. Still a great deal IMO, gonna try this. I would put some paint to it, just to hide the cheap wood feeling. another $200 maybe, still a good deal Great job!
Love the video, I really appreciate the way you describe the project while showing it in the video, without being superfluous, exact details, nice job.
Dude. Way simple design and it looks like it would hold a crap-ton of weight. You made it look easy and gave me some good insights to how I should do it. Also I never even thought to put shelves above my garage door. Wow. Headed to Home Depot!
Still kicking myself for that mistake! I've gotten some smaller storage bins for the second layer, as these larger tubs can be way too heavy depending on what you're putting in them.
I did a similar project. I used 2x4 for everything. I also put a 2x4 along the wall/ceiling. instead of glue, I used metal joint brackets all over the place. The house will fall before this thing moves - haha.
Fantastic video! We built our at home garage shelf this weekend using your guidance and we're so pleased with the result. Cheap, easy, sturdy, and it looks nice too!
Thank you @crafted workshop and @Jay Bates for your videos. You both have made it simpler than getting something from Ikea and assembling. I have ended up creating 2 of these in my garage and plan to create 1 more very soon!
I have a garage with double layer of drywall in the ceiling and possibly, in the walls too. Will this work for me too? I would figure I will need lag bolts to account for the distance between the stud and the shelve lumber... correct?
@@paperstreetsoapmilieubluez6102 a garage door spring broke in new home where I grew up after 10 yrs, which my dad replaced. then, he helped me replace one in a 20 yr old home where I live now. so, it seems random, but when it happens, you need a few feet of clearance to safely wind the new spring.
Nice! Glad to see I'm not the only one who wishes he had checked the spacing before building everything! LOL Serious question, why did you use 2x2 instead of 2x4 for horizontal pieces? Thanks
This probably isn't why the OP chose it, but I'm thinking of using 2x3 or 2x2s because I'm going to be building multiple shelves on top of each other, and a 2x2 makes the opening between shelves bigger (instead of having an extra 2" of wasted "lip" that blocks me from putting my bins in. I'm trying to think through whether a 2x2 is strong enough though, or if I should be using 2x3 or 2x4 for added strength to carry the weight. (I'm guessing not, since the weight is supported by the 2x4 vertical pieces attached to the ceiling and not as much by the horizontal 2x2s, which really just serve as a lip to hold the plywood... right? Am I thinking about that right?
Thanks for the build plans. I was curious if there was needed cross support to the bottom of the shelves needed? Wouldn't the plywood sag over time? I was thinking of possibly hanging for bikes from the bottom of the shelves and was thinking a 2x4 cross member would help? Thanks again for the awesome video..
In the first 2x2 that you mounted to the ceiling, which ran parallel to the joist, did you design your shelf depth to be exactly that depth so that your first joist was away from the wall? For example, my joist is 24 inches from the wall, so it looks like I'd need a 24 inch deep shelf. Unless I'm thinking of this incorrectly.
Just wanted to thank you for sharing the plans I installed them in my garage today and they worked great. Going to put some reinforcements on the underside but other than that they worked really well and saved me a lot of money!
the hanging supports: did you think about the option of assembling that frame on the garage floor and then mounting it on the ceiling? if so, where there some reasons why not to do it that way?
I know you said this was modeled after Jay’s video. Do you see any issues with building triangle supports out of 2x4’s for under the shelf instead of attaching to the ceiling? Will the triangle supports hold as much weight vs they way you built the shelves in the video?
I downloaded the plans. Is the height listed in the plans adjusted for the extra few inches you needed to slide the bins out 2 at a time (34 1/4"), or is that the original height and I need to add a few inches?
Really like the low profile of the supports. But how much weight can this hold? Can four men have chin up competitions on a six foot long shelf without it feeling like it'll break? Or is this for storing stuffed animals?
Was wondering the same. Great if you're storing winter coats and such but I would be concerned about heavier items such as boxed faux x-mas tree or old photo albums etc. I suppose the wood attached to the wall could support a ton of weight. Hard to say! You could always swap out some of the items for metal but it'll likely double your cost. Still not overly costly, though, when compared to other pre-fab shelves.
Awesome! Was planning on doing this soon! I was thinking about running a second, parallel set of overhead storage further in over the garage door. Thinking having the storage entirely joist-supported should be fine for another couple hundred pounds. They are holding up a roof and a second story after all.
@@beaminup Hard to say without seeing it in person, but perhaps you know someone with an engineering background? When in doubt error on the side of caution, especially if little ones are around.
Used your template for a garage hanging shelves build. Guys at home improvement store said you can’t do it without floor support. I appreciate your help so much! Wish I could post a few pics for you!
I really liked this video but from a carpentry standpoint, I don't like the screws holding 100% of the structure top and bottom. When I did mine many years ago, I hung them from 1/2" threaded rod hung from the joists in the attic and "bolted" to the 2x4 supports along the bottom. Overkill? Maybe, LOL, but I'm a little OCD.
Great project but I’m interested in what miter saw stand you are using. What is it? How do you like it? I have a small shop and think this type of stand would work for me.
Any suggestions on how to put up an inexpensive door over the front of these? My stuff is in mis-matched totes, loose items too large for totes, etc. Won't look as neat as yours.
Hope y'all enjoyed this one! Download the free plans here : craftedworkshop.com/store/diy-garage-storage-shelves-plans
Crafted Workshop......
Now IF ONLY I wasnt so damn old and recently had a stroke this would be exactly what I would do! What a cool ass idea and hey...can I hire you to do this for me? LOL Always thought such wasted space up there, but never found a good and safe design to hang and to trust it stayed there 😳.
Need a place to store all my muscle car parts been collecting forever. 😁.
Thank you so much for posting this! Y’all did SUCH an awesome job! 👍🏻❤️🤘🏻
If those storage bins are from Home Depot (it looks like it), here is a possible solution for the tight vertical clearance: Lowes has almost identical bins except the dimensions are slightly different. Their 27 gallon bin is 14" high instead of the HD 15" height. The Lowes bins are a little wider but it looks like you have plenty of side room. You can replace some of the lower bins and gain an inch which might be enough. The upper ones that you have will fit on top with no problem. Another bonus is now you have a bunch of extra bins (or return them to HD).
Rick J SO thank you very much for the info! Would of not even thought of that 🤦♀️
where is the link to Jay Bates video?
My ceiling joists run parallel to the wall with one being 16.5" away and other about 40.5". If I put ceiling 2x2 at 30.25" there's nothing to grab onto, just drywall. What do you suggest? 40.5" seems to stick out from wall very far.
Great video. Sweet to the point and no rediculous intro. No 5 minute story about your grandma's visit. No asking for like and subscribe. Thank you.
The most amazing thing in this whole video is that you apparently have a stud finder that actually finds studs. I've tried multiple brands and never found one yet that worked at all.
$160 in lumber. Ah the good old days.
😂 right? Probably closer to $500 these days
Yeh I know bloody expensive now
Using his wood material list it’s about $288 before tax going off of Lowes prices. Not that bad imo but $160 sounds much better. I hope everything eventually goes back to normal.
@@to3634 "gets back to normal" ...best chances are to vote RED --but even then, going to be hard to beat the Non-citizen-, Low informed-, Repeat-, Dead-, Voter ..or the Computer-Hack..
Lol right, I just spent $280 for the same
Great vid. But those ceiling joists aren't designed to take a heavy loads if you intend to use them for storage. Keep that in mind when you have trusses above and you're screwing into the bottom chords.
Physics and load strengths are for nerds.....🤣
I am a retired long haul driver. building things is something I enjoy. I have a file called DIY in my subscription list. The more I watch, the more I learn. My wife wants to store a years worth of home canned and commercial canned foods, as well as dry goods. I did a quick figuring on it, we are looking at between 1000.00 and 1200.00, if the price of plywood and dimensional lumber stays consistent. I think it will be very much worth it.
When laying out measurements for specific items you plan to store, ALWAYS give yourself extra inches. 2 to 6 inches. You never know when you're going to need that extra space and it can really come in handy. For example, camping supplies in the 2 stacked bins with a nice 5" space above for tucking in and storing a few tarps. Never go for "tight" when laying out measurements for storage shelf or unit. What if bin sizes change? What if what you need to store needs to change? That extra space gives you flexibility and more options.
: )
And before the sawdust settles my wife is off to Target because now there’s storage for seasonal throw pillows, cases of pumpkin spice candles, motivational quote decor.
I'm going to do a similar project, but will use 2x4 on the ceiling instead of 2x2. The vertical hanging load on a 2x2 may not be sufficient for that application. There's just not enough surface area, in my opinion. I will also use a large washer on the screws securing the ceiling 2x4 so the load is spread over a wider area, not just the screw head. Other than that, I like the idea.
Vertical pieces of plywood perpendicular to the shelf running from the shelf to the ceiling (and attached to the wall) will strengthen the shelves tremendously. It will also transfer more of the load to the walls, off of the joists/trusses.
do you mean, like on the sides, or the back? or like at each vertical support?
@@jeremyspecce On the sides at a minimum. At every other stud for heavier stuff.
I did something very similar but I used 2x3s for the lag into the wall support because it is next to impossible to find 2x2 straight at Lowes or Home Depot. Also used L shaped steel 3x3 hinges to support the brackets
Whenever I need 2x2, I just by 2x4, 2x6, or 2x8 and rip them down on the table saw. Not only straighter, but cheaper overall.
Thanks, Johnny this is the first how-to video easy for a noob to visualize & build.
Thank you so much!! I almost bought my husband shelves from amazon and right before I finalized the order I said, let me check youtube first and BAM!!! You're amazing.
Just did this this weekend! Looks and works great! Had the kids help and they loved it! Easy, simple, effective! Thanks for the idea and tips!
That's great, glad to hear it worked well for you!
@ do you have any ideas for the wasted space above the garage doors or 3rd stall garage?
OMG so easy! I'm installing these for someone this week. You just saved him and me time of labor to design this. Thanks for the free download! MADE MY DAY!
Glad I could help!
I greatly appreciate you sharing this information and I will generally mimic what you've done! However, I will with great respect, critique a few things that I believe could be altered to improve the design.
The 2x2s mounted to the ceiling seem a bit sub-par, given that the attachments to the vertical 2x4s could be pulling in a way that would separate the grain. I would replace the 2x2s with 2x4s, long side plumb if possible, but even short side plumb would be an improvement, especially when attaching the vert 2x4s with longer screws. This would help resist grain boundry separation of the ceiling mounted lumber.
The vertical 2x4s are being used in tension (pulling), which is only an issue because they are fastened so close to the end of the board. However, you seem to have enough of them to hold some load. The addition of some steel mending plates would allow for additional screws further away from the end of the vertical 2x4s.
I don't see much wrong with the horizontal wall mounted 2x2s, as they are in compression. However, I would still opt for 2x4s if it doesn't interfere with your plans for below.
If you intend to sell the home with the shelves intact, mark them with a ridiculous low rating to cover yourself. I did this before and engraved 1.0 Lb/sq-ft capacity.
I imagine that your design will work for you well, but perhaps my advice will help lead future builders towards an overkill mentality. Always a good idea for overhead loads!
Hello! What do you mean exactly by marking them for a low rating when selling home with the shelves intact?
@@killerxKING16
I'm saying: if he sells the home and includes the homemade shelves, he opens himself up to legal liability. But, if he marks the shelves with a very low rating, any issue the future homeowner may have, will surely include exceeding his low rating.
Once you show a house for sale, you are not allowed to remove anything that is mechanically attached to the home. So, if he were to sell the house and he doesn't want to include the shelves, he would have to remove them before the house is shown. Or he could include some mention that the shelves are not included, in the listing of the house.
It's a nice design. I am going to borrow a bit from this. The only recommendation I have is either to use 3-1/2" screws or make sure you sink your screws into the wall/ceiling mounted 2x2's. When you consider 1-1/2" of 2x2 + 1/2" of drywall, a 3" screw only has max 1" of hold. Especially if this is going to be weight-bearing, 1-1/2" is significantly better. Of course, pre-drilling is very important, too.
I have done the same thing, works great! Only thing I did differently was use 2x3's instead of 2x2's. I drilled a countersink into the 2x3's that were screwed into the ceiling (as not to need extremely long screws).
My husband and I just spent today building this. It was pretty easy EXCEPT... out ceiling joists run the opposite way so we couldnt use studs. It was a CHORE to figure out how to support the beam. Plus... my ceiling is 12 feet high and my husband while being the taller of us is only 5'7. Sooo... Putting up the ceiling beams was really tough. Took several hours and a LOT of cussing. In the end we are thrilled with the results. If anyone is wondering if the plans adjust for the goof in measuring and allows for the bins with the top beam... they DO. We bought the exact same bins and it couldnt be more perfect. I wish I could include a picture. I plan to post a video on my page this week showing us do this build. Thanks for the plans and the video!
Hi Deb - I've got an 11' ceiling and considering this same plan. How high off the ground is your shelf? (or how low from the ceiling?)
Just wanted to say thanks for providing me the motivation to do this in my garage! I have a sloped ceiling at one end of my garage and I built the shelves there. Was difficult as a one-man job but doable by using some clamps to keep things in place. As some others stated, I used lag screws (GRK) and some L brackets to help with some extra sturdiness. Plywood is quite pricey so my project came in around $200 or a little more with the non-wood supplies. Thanks again for clearing up my floor!
Overall like the design but question the 2 X 2's for the bottom frame rails. What made you choose those over running 2 X 4's?
I like that this video/ project use tools most diy hobbyist have. A video series of projects with tools that are more accessible for diy would be interesting to watch. Just a suggestion as someone with limited tools to use for projects, love the videos and inspiration to start my own projects.
Thanks, definitely something I’ve been considering!
Sweet, now put doors on each opening and paint it all to match the garage! Sick project, looks like I have a project ahead of me.
I did the same thing in my 3-car garage 17 years ago. I added doors on the front, swinging up, to keep items inside clean and invisible!
just used this design for the back wall of my garage. adding some gorilla glue on all the joints makes it really solid. also primed and painted everything after cutting and prior to install, leaving the joint locations bare for better glue adhesion. excellent design. thanks!
Well done. I was able to DIY this without a helper after watching this video. I added 100sf of hanging storage space in my garage. Build took one very long 12 hour workday, but I got it done! So happy with the results.
Nice work!
Looks great I did a similar project however most new construction gargages use very flimsy roof trusses, they are designed to support the roof not hanging objects from them, I fastenened mine into the walls not using the ceiling. but I have a significant amount of weight on mine. Just a word of caution to be aware of. Cheers
Hi Mark, I think thats exactly what happened to me. The ceiling screws came off while screwing in the plywood. Any suggestions?
I just found this today and actually did something similar over 4 years ago with four foot by four foot by four foot bays allowing me to store 3 stacked bins as well as corner storage for Christmas lights, trees ornaments and decorations above vehicles. Major storage as I was moving from a 5600 sq ft home into a 3000 sq ft home. Lots of labelled and stored containers in the bins above the parking area of the garage. 12 foot ceilings reduced to approx 8 foot below the storage area as well as along both sides of the walls for 18 inch shelving. When completed I used about twice the wood supplies as you did and ended up with twice the storage. Every section reinforced and attached directly to support beams in the walls and ceiling of the garage. If there is ever an earthquake I want to be in the garage below the shelving. It will be the safest location in the whole house and nowhere near any windows or glass.
The explanation and sharing of the plans is simply awesome. Thank you so much for sharing your work
This project is dangerous because when completed, you realize how much space you just made and you go out and buy a bunch more stuff to fill it back in.
Hah, we just took all the stuff that was filling out garage and got it out of the way!
NO SHIT! Have empty tubs jussssstttt waiting. 🤣
Hahaha too funny 😂😂
Ha Ha
No, it's dangerous because you don't drill holes through walls in your garage without sealing them properly. His entire family will be breathing in carbon monoxide (poison)
Question: Base upon your design, the shelf is attached to the ceiling wall. How much weight should you worry about?
I just purchase a new home with a garage 20'x20'x10' and this design is going to work perfectly. Correct me if I'm wrong, I am going to use 2x4's in stead of 2x2's. So I would need to add 2" to each of the 8 2x4 uprights, correct? Even buying 3 2"x4"x10' there will be enough left over to add this extra space.
No 2x4's aren't actually 2 inch by 4 inch they are 1.5 by 3.5
The shelving units on your back wall have 2x4s going across the plywood, but I don't see you mentioning it in your video. I was wondering why you added that. Was the shelving unit sagging or did you just do that to use up off cuts of lumber?
I used your idea to build shelving for my daughter. I'll be building some shelving for my shop soon. Thanks!
Renovation our home, might actually do this with our garage, might take me longer since I dont have any of the power tools, hand saw everything
Screws have really poor shear strength (i.e. if you turn them horizontal and then apply vertical weight to them they will want to snap) so it's great that you added glue later or I would really fear for the contents of the shelf.
Great use of space! I really love high up shelves that use otherwise-wasted space like this
I built that same storage system in my garage a few years ago. It is a great way to free up floor space. Great video! Thanks for shaing.
Thanks for watching!
The timing of this video is perfect
Glad to hear it!
This is a Great video, I Love how you can see your mistake and let us all learn !! Just what I was looking for ! Thanks !!
Will be doing this soon with a little more brackets for extra support. Cheers mate.
Love the idea but how do you know if your roof trusses can hold the weight you are adding?
Thanks for the idea. I didn't download the plans but I watched the video and went from there. It turned out pretty decent considering the limited area I had to work with.
*Brilliant idea! 🙌 Finally tackling that wasted space above the garage door like a pro. Weekend project, here I come! And you're so right, who knows if that Cybertruck is ever rolling in? 🤷♂ Time to prioritize the garage gains instead! 🛠🚗💨*
Any idea of what the weight limit would be on these shelves? I know these totes can become pretty heavy when fully loaded
The weak point in this design is the top two by two that is bounded to the ceiling. I recommend using large Fender washers on the screws that's drive into the joists in the ceiling
inb4dalock - 👍 yes!! That’s a good fix for what he’s done here. I would have used slotted angle steel (like what holds up garage door tracks, available at any big box store) with bolts instead of a 2x nailer into the joists, since that’s the weakest point. The rest of the construction is fine and spreads the load to the studs. I really like the minimalist design here...I’m Captain Overkill with full 2x4s, 11/16 ply, and GRK fasteners...a tornado might rip our house apart but my damn shelves will still be intact! 🤣
Best plan? Don’t overload...who wants to mess with super-heavy tubs up high anyway?
The screws that hold the 2x2s to the ceiling are supporting almost all of the weight you put on these shelves. Isn’t this too weak?
@ That would be my concern as well, particularly if one doesn't use lag screws or structural screws like GRK RSS fasteners. Heck, I would also use the GRK's to secure any horizontal fixation (like the 2x2's to the wall studs) as the weakness of regular screws is their shear strength. I'm less concerned about the vertical fixation of the 2x2's as a screw's forte in its pullout strength.
Did you consider using chains to hang from ceiling in the front, just to minimize the footprint, aesthetics, etc...?
Thanks for sharing this, Ive watched it about 20 times and used this method to build my own overhead shelving in my garage. The hardest thing was finding the ceiling joists as my home has a joist and a metal framing grid for the drywall, which made finding wood to drill into a real pain. All in all took about a weekend and Im stoked to have my garage floor back, Cheers !
Glad it helped! My shelving is still holding up great and is so useful!
Great idea for using normally unused space in a garage. However something you may want to consider, you could use wire cable in lieu of 2x4s. All the work done to attach the 2x2 to the ceiling would be eliminated. Using eyebolts would allow attachment to wire cable with turnbuckles to suspend shelving.
Seems like a great idea but could you provide a little more detail for us newbies? For instance, how would you attach the wire cable to the ceiling? Is that the eyebolts? Would they be able to support as much weight as the way it was done in the video? Anyways, thanks so much for the idea!
@@wushufanatic I think eye bolts secured into the ceiling joist would be able to support a substantial load. Stranded cable is rated for a specified load; for safety in overhead uses, you would divide the specified load by 3 or 5 for safety. To assemble the components “U” bolts could be used or cable assembly “crimp-on” components could be used. These parts are also rated for a set load. You gotta calculate exactly what the load capacity of the complete assembly including the parts used to make the shelving.
Thx for sharing. Ive been thinking about doing this but given the price of materials its hard to justify the project without taking a look at what i can buy pre fabed first
Did you factor in as to whether or not the existing framing was substantial enough for the extra weight you were going to be carrying?
I had a house and wanted to use the open area above to store "STUFF" was told that was not possible as the roof trusses weren't engineered for significant extra weight. They were fine for "FINISHING" drywall. Or light stuff .... But if I wanted to use it as a storage area I'd need to have the trusses reengineered for greater carrying capacity.
Oh dang man that sucks!
@@dpscloud3324 Gotta love mass produced houses.
@@johnjacobjinglehimerschmid3555 don't think it's a matter of mass produced houses. The whole point of engineering is to not waste money and effort over building. Having said that, the roof truss is already designed to take significantly more load than you'll ever experience because human safety is involved. To put it another way, the roof is over built but it's unwise to unnecessarily load it with storage.
@@Jaze2022 Glad to see that I'm not the only one up at all hours of the night.
IDK ... House I was in ... 2x4 trusses with only those spiky plates at the joints.
Specifically, asked the builder if I could enclose it and put a floor down the middle and store stuff to each side ... He was not very enthusiastic about it.
So I stored bits of lumber, pipe, and empty boxes ... Put some shelves up along one 1.5 walls and a bench ... ended up being enough.
Do the plans show a slightly taller design to utilize the 2 stacked boxes or are they the exact size you used in this project. Thanks!
8:15 , now is 2022 march, so, here in canada, if I getting them from homedepot, cost is 18x$5.68 + 8x$15.58 + 4x$68.98=$502.8 .
Just for you guys if you are interested for current price.
Still a great deal IMO, gonna try this. I would put some paint to it, just to hide the cheap wood feeling. another $200 maybe, still a good deal
Great job!
You are the master👍 Thank you so much for this video. God bless you
Love the video, I really appreciate the way you describe the project while showing it in the video, without being superfluous, exact details, nice job.
Just found this video, and I was wondering how the shelves are working out. Thanks.
Gonna rewatch this many times as I build my own shelves.
Thanks for the plans...used them for the basis for my build. I did mine for about $175. Wish I could upload a finish photo to the comments section 😎
Awesome thats exactly wanted to use my garage storage and under it I will have my Home Office
A great way to add storage to any garage or other storage shed! They would be great to store Christmas Decorations! Yep, it's that time of year...lol.
Yup, about to pull down our Christmas decorations from these shelves!
Dude. Way simple design and it looks like it would hold a crap-ton of weight. You made it look easy and gave me some good insights to how I should do it. Also I never even thought to put shelves above my garage door. Wow. Headed to Home Depot!
Its An Amazing Way of doing the shelves / storage space
Terrific! I knew the clearance was going to be the problem before I got to it in the video. Great looking storage my man!
Still kicking myself for that mistake! I've gotten some smaller storage bins for the second layer, as these larger tubs can be way too heavy depending on what you're putting in them.
I did a similar project. I used 2x4 for everything. I also put a 2x4 along the wall/ceiling. instead of glue, I used metal joint brackets all over the place. The house will fall before this thing moves - haha.
Question: what kind of the screw did you use?
Fantastic video! We built our at home garage shelf this weekend using your guidance and we're so pleased with the result. Cheap, easy, sturdy, and it looks nice too!
Thank you @crafted workshop and @Jay Bates for your videos. You both have made it simpler than getting something from Ikea and assembling. I have ended up creating 2 of these in my garage and plan to create 1 more very soon!
This seems pretty good. Do you think it will withstand the winter tires with allow wheels x 4?
I have a garage with double layer of drywall in the ceiling and possibly, in the walls too. Will this work for me too? I would figure I will need lag bolts to account for the distance between the stud and the shelve lumber... correct?
I'm curious of the shear strength of the screws? Wouldn't nails be better?
What program are you using for the 3d mock-ups?
Are these new plans with the modified height to be able to slide the bins in & out easily?
Yup!
On the shelves above the garage door do you feel there is enough clearance to allow for a spring replacement on the garage door?
So I thought of that while starting to plan my build. How often does a garage door get changed?
@@paperstreetsoapmilieubluez6102 a garage door spring broke in new home where I grew up after 10 yrs, which my dad replaced. then, he helped me replace one in a 20 yr old home where I live now. so, it seems random, but when it happens, you need a few feet of clearance to safely wind the new spring.
That shelving above the garage door is SWEET! Thanks for the vid!
Nice video. Thank you. Just wondering how much weight it will hold.
What kind of system is your extra lumber on the left side ( metal and orange brackets) called and where to purchase and how much did it cost?
Nice! Glad to see I'm not the only one who wishes he had checked the spacing before building everything! LOL Serious question, why did you use 2x2 instead of 2x4 for horizontal pieces? Thanks
This probably isn't why the OP chose it, but I'm thinking of using 2x3 or 2x2s because I'm going to be building multiple shelves on top of each other, and a 2x2 makes the opening between shelves bigger (instead of having an extra 2" of wasted "lip" that blocks me from putting my bins in. I'm trying to think through whether a 2x2 is strong enough though, or if I should be using 2x3 or 2x4 for added strength to carry the weight. (I'm guessing not, since the weight is supported by the 2x4 vertical pieces attached to the ceiling and not as much by the horizontal 2x2s, which really just serve as a lip to hold the plywood... right? Am I thinking about that right?
Thanks for the build plans. I was curious if there was needed cross support to the bottom of the shelves needed? Wouldn't the plywood sag over time? I was thinking of possibly hanging for bikes from the bottom of the shelves and was thinking a 2x4 cross member would help? Thanks again for the awesome video..
In the first 2x2 that you mounted to the ceiling, which ran parallel to the joist, did you design your shelf depth to be exactly that depth so that your first joist was away from the wall? For example, my joist is 24 inches from the wall, so it looks like I'd need a 24 inch deep shelf. Unless I'm thinking of this incorrectly.
Just wanted to thank you for sharing the plans I installed them in my garage today and they worked great. Going to put some reinforcements on the underside but other than that they worked really well and saved me a lot of money!
Nice work!
Great video, I’m planning to do this myself.
Approximately how much weight do you think the shelves could hold??
the hanging supports: did you think about the option of assembling that frame on the garage floor and then mounting it on the ceiling? if so, where there some reasons why not to do it that way?
I know you said this was modeled after Jay’s video.
Do you see any issues with building triangle supports out of 2x4’s for under the shelf instead of attaching to the ceiling? Will the triangle supports hold as much weight vs they way you built the shelves in the video?
@Crafted Workshop
WOW ...U MADE DIS SO EASY FOR ME...THANX BRO U DONE GUD JOB...U DESERVE MORE LIKES.👍
Did the plans update for the lower shelves so you can put both bins on and more easily?
Yup, I adjusted them to be the correct sizes!
I'll be building this in my garage. I've got these insanely high ceilings in my garage that I can take advantage.
Yup, that's how ours was. 10 foot ceilings made this the perfect project.
I downloaded the plans. Is the height listed in the plans adjusted for the extra few inches you needed to slide the bins out 2 at a time (34 1/4"), or is that the original height and I need to add a few inches?
Will 2x4 hold up better against the wall and ceiling that that 2x2?
Really like the low profile of the supports. But how much weight can this hold? Can four men have chin up competitions on a six foot long shelf without it feeling like it'll break? Or is this for storing stuffed animals?
Was wondering the same. Great if you're storing winter coats and such but I would be concerned about heavier items such as boxed faux x-mas tree or old photo albums etc. I suppose the wood attached to the wall could support a ton of weight. Hard to say!
You could always swap out some of the items for metal but it'll likely double your cost. Still not overly costly, though, when compared to other pre-fab shelves.
Thanks, I followed your video and built similar shelves for my garage.
Awesome! Was planning on doing this soon!
I was thinking about running a second, parallel set of overhead storage further in over the garage door. Thinking having the storage entirely joist-supported should be fine for another couple hundred pounds. They are holding up a roof and a second story after all.
where did find the fire explosion lay over? I find many but none of them are that good Nice wood working also
Sick storage space. Guess I need to break out the stud finder and tape measure.
It would be fun for whoever to replace the garage door springs in the future.
Where are these springs ? I'm about to do this project, are springs something common to replace?
Well done, but just to add that the ceiling framing was designed for a particular load so don't store items that weigh too much.
@@beaminup Hard to say without seeing it in person, but perhaps you know someone with an engineering background? When in doubt error on the side of caution, especially if little ones are around.
Really helpful video!! Love that you showed why u should have made the uprights longer
Glad it was helpful!
I need this. Gonna start getting the tools needed for this project.
Used your template for a garage hanging shelves build. Guys at home improvement store said you can’t do it without floor support. I appreciate your help so much! Wish I could post a few pics for you!
What template did you use? I can’t find it anymore. Thanks Roland.
I really liked this video but from a carpentry standpoint, I don't like the screws holding 100% of the structure top and bottom. When I did mine many years ago, I hung them from 1/2" threaded rod hung from the joists in the attic and "bolted" to the 2x4 supports along the bottom. Overkill? Maybe, LOL, but I'm a little OCD.
How do you calculate fastener strength into this since these are screwed into beams in the ceiling?
Great project but I’m interested in what miter saw stand you are using. What is it? How do you like it? I have a small shop and think this type of stand would work for me.
Any suggestions on how to put up an inexpensive door over the front of these? My stuff is in mis-matched totes, loose items too large for totes, etc. Won't look as neat as yours.
Any potential issues having that storage over the garage door? I feel like changing out the garage door or any other fixes could be a problem.