Two years ago I tried an experiment with starting corn in Solo cups. Filled the cups full of starting mix, covered the surface with corn seeds, then topped with a thin layer of mix. Within a week I had lots of small corn plants with roots that extended down to the bottom of the cup. Removed them and teased them apart, and then planted in 25 gallon Smart Pots. They did wonderful. When I direct seed corn, the squirrels, birds and other varmits would dig them up or pull small sprouts out of the soil. Didn’t have those problems with transplants. As always Travis, great video!!
I like transplanting corn as well. Corn is usually ready to put in the garden 1-2 weeks from sowing in a tray, and I can get perfectly filled rows transplanting. I grow field corn in the garden, not sweet corn, though it seems unlikely it would matter. Every time I have direct seeded I have had to replant in part (to fill in significant gaps) or in full. Two things I have learned about weather over the years: If I start to spread out a tarp, the wind will pick up, and if I plant corn I'll get a week of cold rain that rots most of the seeds in the ground.
I'm in McDonough, GA zone 8A, and we are about 2 weeks behind you as the weather goes (most of the time - 8A vs 8B for you). I cleaned up and prepped my proptek flats today, made sure I had enough starting media, and will be planting my cabbage, broccoli, and lettuce for transplant tomorrow (lettuce will go in some 17 gallon wicking tubs on the deck for easy access and cut salad material, other starts will be in the raised beds eventually). I made a propagation rack out of a rolling wire shelf unit, now I need to clean off all the other stuff that migrated to the rack while in storage so I can use it with the LED daylight/grow lights and heat mats it was set up for again. The peppers will get started next week, along with tomatoes and eggplant (around Feb 15th for us). I always up-pot my peppers, tomatoes and eggplant before setting the plants out in the garden. Last of the spring stuff for us to get started inside will be a couple of summer squash and my cukes, probably first week of March. Spinach and English peas will be direct seeded probably next week. 2023 garden season is officially underway!
@@evecampbell7744 Sometimes our last frost is in March, but sometimes we get one last freeze around April 10th. If you want to be fairly certain you are good, plan on putting out your tomatoes and other tender transplants April 10-14th in our area (McDonough & Lovejoy). If you want to gamble on a few plants early, just start extra so you have replacements if the weather says "NO" that year! Also keep notes in a notebook or on the PC as to dates, varieties, etc... and how they do. Invaluable info for the future.
NE Bama suppose to get snow on Sunday! Of course I pushed the envelope and started herbs already. I prefer starting seeds then planting out so I know what I have to work with. This year had been crazy weather and I'll have a larger area to grow on, so I'm a bit lost, lol!
I’m a fan of transplanting onions, tomatoes, peppers, certain herbs and some types of flowers. Most other things I direct seed. I only do this because I have a tendency to start them too way too early or wait too long to get them transplanted, lol, so direct seeding tends to give me better results on quicker growing plants. I direct seed Sunflowers and zinnias and marigolds all over and in between everything in my garden.
My average last frost is somewhere around END of April/early May. I like the ground a little warmer, so, working backwards, I sow seeds indoors 8-12 weeks or so before. Peppers take longer to germinate, so I sow 12-14 weeks: Mid January. Tomato End of January for indeterminate, and end of Feb for determinate.Like you, I am OK with planting larger tomato plants and burying them deeper. Eggplant is usually mid March, too. Squash, Zuke, Cukes, etc, I sow Mid March, and as you mentioned, they go outside a bit earlier since they arent as fussy about cooler ground than the tomato and pepper. Carrot goes direct seed. Same with Peas. Lettuce I seed, grow, and harvest all winter indoors, and start outdoors as soon as I can work the ground. I spend about a week early May, hardening off the seedlings to outside, then, they go outside for their "forever" homes.
9A here and frost expected this weekend. Toms, peppers, egg plant, okra, pumpkins, squash going already. In ground I have peas, beans, onions, potatoes, salad leaves, radish, spinach.
Here in Michigan our average last frost date isn't until May 21 through 31. So I will not be starting my seeds until mid-april and in-ground sewing at least one to two weeks after last frost date. I am so excited for this year's growing season and hope to grow a lot of our food for my family and animals. 😊
I transplant almost everything. Carrots are the only exception. I start everything under lights indoors so some of it is just because I can't get out in the garden yet! 😅
The only time I use transplants in late Spring, Summer, and Fall plants is if I already have something in the space that the plants are intended for. That way I can start seed that needs a cooler start or it will not be long enough for a good harvest.
I've had the same experience with cucumbers. All cucurbits seem to shock really hard when transplanted. It takes a week minimum for them to move at all.
I should be about two weeks behind you, but I’m a month ahead of you on tomatoes and peppers. I have room to step up and my friends that would normally buy these plants at the store get them from me. I had great success last year so I’ve chosen to do the same this year. Last year I started throwing plants in ground early. I did lose a few, but kept throwing them out till they took and had plenty to give away. Keep the good content coming.
Hard as I try, I just can’t start mostly anything in the garden. Too many critters chomping on seedlings as soon as they pop up…and, if I’m being honest, I often don’t keep the soil moist enough to get great germination. I’ll direct seed carrots in the garden and when I transplant out my lettuce seedlings, I’ll direct seed a second wave. But that’s it. I’m so excited to have lots of green on my grow shelves now; brassicas, lettuce and lots of cool season flowers. Let the 2023 season commence! 😊
Zone 5b/6a - Our average last frost tends to be about May 20 or so, but we get a lot of late snowstorms many years, so I have to be really careful about what goes out when. Started onions and celery around New Year's, and they're doing well - in fact I've already stepped up the onions into their own little plug spots in the tray - found I need to start them that early so they have a good chance to put on vegetative growth before the daylength triggers them to start bulbing. (They can handle the snow if it comes after they're in the ground.) My husband direct-seeds his sweet corn in late May - early June, but I've been working on increasing my little seed stocks of flint and flour corn (alternating, one type each year), so I pre-germinate my corn on paper towels in April and plant the seeds in a plug tray indoors. That way they have about a month's head start over hubby's sweet corn, to prevent cross-pollination so I can save the flint or flour corn seeds. (And the bees like having the longer window in which they can collect the pollen to feed their babies - they love corn pollen.)
I am only starting onions and leeks from seed to transplant this year. I always end up with leggy tomatoes started inside so Im experimenting with dir sow my toms in early March where I want them to be grown since nature tells them when its time. I have seen my volunteers come up strong, healthy and vibrant each year so why not the new ones! Everything else is direct. I have THE worst time with any peppers so if I have the time I will TRY to start them on the heat mat with lights…… its always trial and error for me but I will NOT give up! Happy growing everyone!!!
I'll have to try starting more transplants besides my normal ones instead of playing in-ground roulette. Just wish I had a gardeners crystal ball to know what extremes will hit every year. Thanks for the tips with seedless watermelon and winter squashes.
In South central Florida, have transplanted small sweet pumpkins, small watermelons, bush green beans and bush cucumbers. All were transplanted from seed starts. Heard we are in for a hard heat summer. Also started my sunflowers. Patty pan squash is sprouted but growing slow. All these seeded to outside weather.
I'm in zone 8b Georgia and started seeds 2/3/23 for Bella Rosa, Red Snapper, Creole and Sun Gold tomatoes, Marconi and Shoshito peppers and Florida Market eggplant. I have three 4x16 feet raised beds so I'm only starting a few plants of each variety. I was thinking about starting the yellow squash, zukes and cukes second week of March but, after hearing your schedule, will start seeds the last of this month. I'm hoping to grow some "greens" this summer and have started seeds for Egyptian spinach, Ethiopian kale, Callaloo, Red Malabar spinach, Orach and Jewels of Opar. First time growing these "greens".
Started my peppers and tomatoes 2 weeks ago. This was the fastest I saw them germinate (I had tomatoes up in 3 days! All the peppers in 7!) --- but it was my first time planting primarily hybrids. They do seem to come out faster. I always start my summer squash indoors. Squash vine borer ars horrible here. Having them bigger helps with this issue.
So happy to hear again about the Rose tomato, started them (with some others) last Sunday, February 5th, covered with vermiculite (have lots of that). I'm excited! Thank you, Travis!
Man your channel is a blessing from God above! I lived in SW Florida and just moved to North Florida, almost in South GA in a similar zone as you. Quite different growing here
zone 8a, obx NC - Started all types of onion family on jan1, Cabbage last week and lettuces and spinach this week. Next week the tomatoes, marigolds and winter squashes get started and Im going to hold off until mid march to start the peppers as they grow so slowly and I have to wait for some room in my garden :D Have a great week!
Wise words from start to finish. In the past you have used plastic cling wrap to ensure consistent moisture like the Big Boys do in their sprouting cabinets. If you use Freeze-Tite brand wrap from Amazon or Walmart, you'll find that it doesn't present the same hassles as Glad or Saran. I direct seed summer squash and cucumbers as you do, but also icebox watermelon, which will grow out in a hoop house. Start 120-day leeks in March in deep cells. All else in late April for Memorial Day set out. Bootstrap Farmer carries my favorite plasticware for seed starting.
I started my hot peppers for zone 7b on the 4th of February as they take a while to germinate and they grow slower than tomatoes, so they can be ready by the 3rd week of April in Virginia.
I enjoyed that! I agree with all your reasons for direct sowing or starting indoors. Up here our season is short enough that getting a head start is even more important if we want to get a harvest of certain crops. I always direct sow my bean seeds but I push the season a bit, so I will start a flat indoors too at the same time as I sow outdoors so I can fill in any gaps with a similar sized plug to the ones outside, some years that has really saved my bacon! Klaus
Which vegetables do you transplant in your backyard garden? Let us know! SHOP LAZY DOG FARM FIG TREES: lazydogfarm.com/collections/fig-trees 0:00 Intro 0:50 Why Should You Transplant Some Veggies? 3:41 Which Vegetables Should You Transplant? 7:45 Which Vegetables Should You Direct Seed? 10:59 Planting Heirloom Tomatoes in the Greenhouse
Thank You Travis! I guess next video will talk about seed starting supplies. Especially interested in the trays and how many cells per tray, which plants need bigger cells than others etc. AND where is best place to buy seed starting trays. Thx. Chuck in Jensen Beach.
Spacing and control are the two biggest we do so much in the greenhouse. And if you don't have a greenhouse you can make some "Cold Frames" that do just as good of a job.
Nice video. And yes, I have already started tomatoes. Brocolinni, onions. Prepping potatoes and planning for staggering starting and direct seeding in my 9b Sacramento garden. Wish me luck as I finish eating my winter garden of broccoli, cauliflower, chard and snap peas.
SE North Carolina. I fall about 2-3 weeks behind you, so I always look forward to your planting videos as another guide. Megaton cabbage last week, along with some long-germination time flowers. Hot peppers next week (they always seem to take about 7-8 longer than sweet peppers), seeet peppers and tomatoes feb 22. Going to split these giant butternut squash I order from you - half transplant half direct seed. I’m interested to see if the transplants out grow the vine borers (insert your favorite curse word). Hoping the mustard cut in will help too.
My garden this year will be limited. Just what I can manage after dark. Too busy working hurricane relief. 7 days a week since October. Only stopping for the Holidays. Never see my house in the day.
Already started alot of mine. Especially peppers because they go in grow bags anyway. Usually by the time they see the sun they’re already flowering. Big slicers I’m trying indoors this year instead of fighting our insane sun and uv index the cherry tomato’s and smaller will be outside.
I start my Capsicum pubescens varieties at Thanksgiving as they are slow to germinate and need a massive headstart, as they don't really produce much in the first year. Most other peppers and tomatoes are now at least 3" tall. I may be stepping them up to larger pots soon.
I handle my seeds about like you do though I have much less space. I have had tomatoes up for a few weeks. So far I am not too impressed with them. Used seed starter mix, heat mat and grow lights. Actually my seeds I started in my aerogarden are doing better. Peppers look good.
Ill be interested to see how you like Amana. I grew them a couple years and gave up on them. Way too much disease and the flavor wasn't that great. Hopefully you have better luck.
Great info! How about what you did to overcome bermuda grass, nut sedge, and bahia grass? Good old Georgia highway department planted these noxious grasses along the highways, and now these noxious plants are overcoming anything I plant in the ground. PS, roof run off is going 10 feet away to a rain garden with edible landscaping including mayhaw trees in the garden and other plants that can take soggy soil now and then when it rains. That is on the east side of the house. The other side of the house has a ditch system directing roof water around the drip line of peach trees and along a row of raspberries that grow on top of a huglekultur mound. At both places, rain garden and ditch system, I am starting a food forest with plant guilds around the main trees. One tree I am looking to plant are pawpaw trees that will grow on the west side of the house with peach trees further out from the house, the pawpaws growing between the peaches and the house. Pawpaws are an understory tree that likes some shade until bigger trees to start, a perfect place to plant around peach trees. If you know of anyone that will sell pawpaw seeds, please return a reply to this message. Thanks, Russ, central GA
The tarp and till technique works great to remove all those. Till the area, tarp it for a few weeks, pull back the tarp and water, till again, put back the tarp, and keep repeating.
Sounds like a good way to get rid of it eventually. Wear out reserve energy in the roots, etc. until they cannot survive. No sun, no energy, they die, die die! LOL
Ok, we covered how soon you start the seeds and what you like to start in the green house, but when do you like to start feeding your seed starts? And how often do you feed them and is it 1/4 strength, 1/2 strength, or full strength?
I usually start feeding them when they have their second set of leaves. I just put a few ounces of Agrothrive in a bucket or my injector and feed them that low dosage each time I water.
I try to get the timing right to avoid transplanting. If I buy anymore end of season perennials I will definitely check to make sure it even has roots. The plant looked great until I planted it the next day-no roots😮
I started spinach, swiss chard and pak choi last week plus my onions. I might have jumped the gun a bit, we'll see. Mid April target for 6B. Also some cabbage and dinosaur kale this week although I prefer fall. It has all geminated in a 65 degree spare bedroom I've shut off and now turned into a grow room. Lights are now warming it up a bit. Anything else will be mid March to early April. Also, used perlite the first couple of years but had vermiculite part of last year and for this year. Slightly smaller and less blowy but there isn't any difference on top the starting mix except you can't buy the jumbo bag like perlite and it seems more expensive.
Provides a little extra drainage and aeration on top of the seeds. The commercial greenhouse guys around here have been doing it for years. We tried it several years ago and like it, so we kept doing it.
I'm in zone 9a and started the first round of tomatoes and peppers 2 weeks ago. Today I started flowers, okra, and watermelons. I'm still learning and still don't have my timing exactly right. These peppers and tomatoes are aggravating me. They were planted 12ish days ago and about 2/3 of the seeds have germinated. Every day a few more come up. How long do you give them to germinate before you write it off and replant?
If you just have a small space to grow and have a two seed trays can you move the trays outside when the days are sunny and move them inside at night or is it better just to leave them inside until they ready to plant or does it make a difference. Thank you have a great evening
I find soaking my okra seeds overnight will help with germination and they seem to grow quickly. I've never started my winter squash and transplanted them but I think I will this year. You have the same heat and humidity I have and my cukes almost always caves in to disease before I get many cukes, is there a more disease resistant variety I can plant? I like the pickling cukes and only one plant of slicers because I'm the only person in my house who likes them raw. I also have the same problem with watermelon, they succumb to disease before the melons get past baseball size. Any suggestions for a disease resistant good sweet watermelon?
Supremo is really disease resistant. Also the Excelsior variety we're growing this year. Not sure about the watermelon disease resistance. I usually go for looks or flavor on those.
@@LazyDogFarm didn't you buy a lb of the Baltic Rose from Wood Prairie?, Let's do an experiment, you plant on the full moon in a raised bed and I'll plant mine on a dark moon and let's see what the difference is. I'll video my harvest, you do the same and we'll compare, okay?
I've transplanted Borage from seed trays and it did well, so I would think it would be fine. Borage doesn't care for our heat down here, so I only grew it once though.
I'm curious about the "stepping up". For the plants that you "step up" I start the seeds in a clear plastic cup(same size as a red solo cup) filled about 1/3 full of soil As the plant grows I add more soil. I will usually add soil twice throughout the growing process each time adding another 1/3 to the cup. This has worked very well for me with tomatoes and peppers and I started doing it to eliminate the process of transplanting small plugs into a bigger container. So I'm wondering if there is a benefit to stepping up seedlings over what I've been doing.
The only reason we ever "step up" plants is because they are becoming root bound or root wrapped in their current cells or containers. If there's plenty of room for the roots, no need to do so.
Hey Travis I am interested in getting a fig tree. Never had one but what I have learned from watching your channel has been awesome information. If you had 1 fig tree what variety and type would it be?
I'm in zone 8b, coastal SC. I'm starting seeds today! My last is similar to yours, but I've never started winter squash or pumpkins early. I might do that this year because I had such a hard time with direct seeding those last year.
Love this channel!! Thanks Travis & wife!!
Thanks for watching!
Come on people, let’s get him to 100.000 subscribers by the end of the year ! How awesome would that be, he deserves it
Two years ago I tried an experiment with starting corn in Solo cups. Filled the cups full of starting mix, covered the surface with corn seeds, then topped with a thin layer of mix. Within a week I had lots of small corn plants with roots that extended down to the bottom of the cup. Removed them and teased them apart, and then planted in 25 gallon Smart Pots. They did wonderful. When I direct seed corn, the squirrels, birds and other varmits would dig them up or pull small sprouts out of the soil. Didn’t have those problems with transplants. As always Travis, great video!!
Same here in SE FL with the tree rats digging up free grub for themselves
I like transplanting corn as well. Corn is usually ready to put in the garden 1-2 weeks from sowing in a tray, and I can get perfectly filled rows transplanting. I grow field corn in the garden, not sweet corn, though it seems unlikely it would matter. Every time I have direct seeded I have had to replant in part (to fill in significant gaps) or in full. Two things I have learned about weather over the years: If I start to spread out a tarp, the wind will pick up, and if I plant corn I'll get a week of cold rain that rots most of the seeds in the ground.
I'm in McDonough, GA zone 8A, and we are about 2 weeks behind you as the weather goes (most of the time - 8A vs 8B for you). I cleaned up and prepped my proptek flats today, made sure I had enough starting media, and will be planting my cabbage, broccoli, and lettuce for transplant tomorrow (lettuce will go in some 17 gallon wicking tubs on the deck for easy access and cut salad material, other starts will be in the raised beds eventually). I made a propagation rack out of a rolling wire shelf unit, now I need to clean off all the other stuff that migrated to the rack while in storage so I can use it with the LED daylight/grow lights and heat mats it was set up for again. The peppers will get started next week, along with tomatoes and eggplant (around Feb 15th for us). I always up-pot my peppers, tomatoes and eggplant before setting the plants out in the garden. Last of the spring stuff for us to get started inside will be a couple of summer squash and my cukes, probably first week of March. Spinach and English peas will be direct seeded probably next week. 2023 garden season is officially underway!
I live in 8A, too, Lovejoy GA. Thank you for sharing your schedule. I’m a novice and this will help me out a lot! Appreciate the info.
@@evecampbell7744 Sometimes our last frost is in March, but sometimes we get one last freeze around April 10th. If you want to be fairly certain you are good, plan on putting out your tomatoes and other tender transplants April 10-14th in our area (McDonough & Lovejoy). If you want to gamble on a few plants early, just start extra so you have replacements if the weather says "NO" that year! Also keep notes in a notebook or on the PC as to dates, varieties, etc... and how they do. Invaluable info for the future.
NE Bama suppose to get snow on Sunday! Of course I pushed the envelope and started herbs already. I prefer starting seeds then planting out so I know what I have to work with. This year had been crazy weather and I'll have a larger area to grow on, so I'm a bit lost, lol!
I’m a fan of transplanting onions, tomatoes, peppers, certain herbs and some types of flowers. Most other things I direct seed. I only do this because I have a tendency to start them too way too early or wait too long to get them transplanted, lol, so direct seeding tends to give me better results on quicker growing plants. I direct seed Sunflowers and zinnias and marigolds all over and in between everything in my garden.
My average last frost is somewhere around END of April/early May. I like the ground a little warmer, so, working backwards, I sow seeds indoors 8-12 weeks or so before. Peppers take longer to germinate, so I sow 12-14 weeks: Mid January. Tomato End of January for indeterminate, and end of Feb for determinate.Like you, I am OK with planting larger tomato plants and burying them deeper. Eggplant is usually mid March, too. Squash, Zuke, Cukes, etc, I sow Mid March, and as you mentioned, they go outside a bit earlier since they arent as fussy about cooler ground than the tomato and pepper. Carrot goes direct seed. Same with Peas. Lettuce I seed, grow, and harvest all winter indoors, and start outdoors as soon as I can work the ground. I spend about a week early May, hardening off the seedlings to outside, then, they go outside for their "forever" homes.
We are in Pennsylvania so we do alot of transplants only thing we direct sow is beans,corn, carrots, beets, and pea's
9A here and frost expected this weekend. Toms, peppers, egg plant, okra, pumpkins, squash going already. In ground I have peas, beans, onions, potatoes, salad leaves, radish, spinach.
Glad to see you wearing the Colquitt County Ducks Unlimited hat, they have a great banquet every year
Here in Michigan our average last frost date isn't until May 21 through 31. So I will not be starting my seeds until mid-april and in-ground sewing at least one to two weeks after last frost date. I am so excited for this year's growing season and hope to grow a lot of our food for my family and animals. 😊
In 7b Tennessee, started peppers, onions,and eggplant.
Don't forget you can start tomato plants from the suckers for family and friends as well. Can't wait to get my seeds going. 😁🌱
I transplant almost everything. Carrots are the only exception. I start everything under lights indoors so some of it is just because I can't get out in the garden yet! 😅
The only time I use transplants in late Spring, Summer, and Fall plants is if I already have something in the space that the plants are intended for. That way I can start seed that needs a cooler start or it will not be long enough for a good harvest.
I've had the same experience with cucumbers. All cucurbits seem to shock really hard when transplanted. It takes a week minimum for them to move at all.
Transplanting almost everything including corn. Corn gets going early in zone 9a. Being so, I can get a harvest before it gets too hot.
it’s just now brassica season here in zone 6A/B lol. i’m using the Clyde’s Garden Planner slider for my planting times
I should be about two weeks behind you, but I’m a month ahead of you on tomatoes and peppers. I have room to step up and my friends that would normally buy these plants at the store get them from me. I had great success last year so I’ve chosen to do the same this year. Last year I started throwing plants in ground early. I did lose a few, but kept throwing them out till they took and had plenty to give away. Keep the good content coming.
WHOO-HOO!!! Paul Robeson my #1 dark shouldered slicer.❤👍🍅 I always spoil that tomatoe plant more than the others.
Hard as I try, I just can’t start mostly anything in the garden. Too many critters chomping on seedlings as soon as they pop up…and, if I’m being honest, I often don’t keep the soil moist enough to get great germination. I’ll direct seed carrots in the garden and when I transplant out my lettuce seedlings, I’ll direct seed a second wave. But that’s it. I’m so excited to have lots of green on my grow shelves now; brassicas, lettuce and lots of cool season flowers. Let the 2023 season commence! 😊
Zone 5b/6a - Our average last frost tends to be about May 20 or so, but we get a lot of late snowstorms many years, so I have to be really careful about what goes out when. Started onions and celery around New Year's, and they're doing well - in fact I've already stepped up the onions into their own little plug spots in the tray - found I need to start them that early so they have a good chance to put on vegetative growth before the daylength triggers them to start bulbing. (They can handle the snow if it comes after they're in the ground.) My husband direct-seeds his sweet corn in late May - early June, but I've been working on increasing my little seed stocks of flint and flour corn (alternating, one type each year), so I pre-germinate my corn on paper towels in April and plant the seeds in a plug tray indoors. That way they have about a month's head start over hubby's sweet corn, to prevent cross-pollination so I can save the flint or flour corn seeds. (And the bees like having the longer window in which they can collect the pollen to feed their babies - they love corn pollen.)
Great refresher Travis 😊
Thanks Travis 👍 super vid as always!! Sowing....best time!!
I am only starting onions and leeks from seed to transplant this year. I always end up with leggy tomatoes started inside so Im experimenting with dir sow my toms in early March where I want them to be grown since nature tells them when its time. I have seen my volunteers come up strong, healthy and vibrant each year so why not the new ones! Everything else is direct. I have THE worst time with any peppers so if I have the time I will TRY to start them on the heat mat with lights…… its always trial and error for me but I will NOT give up! Happy growing everyone!!!
I'll have to try starting more transplants besides my normal ones instead of playing in-ground roulette. Just wish I had a gardeners crystal ball to know what extremes will hit every year. Thanks for the tips with seedless watermelon and winter squashes.
Haha in-ground roulette… Im gonna steal that one!!
In zone 8b...sun flowers will germinate as early as mid February!!
Thanks Travis. Your videos are extremely helpful and informative. Thank you again.
Glad you like them!
In South central Florida, have transplanted small sweet pumpkins, small watermelons, bush green beans and bush cucumbers. All were transplanted from seed starts. Heard we are in for a hard heat summer. Also started my sunflowers. Patty pan squash is sprouted but growing slow. All these seeded to outside weather.
I'm in zone 8b Georgia and started seeds 2/3/23 for Bella Rosa, Red Snapper, Creole and Sun Gold tomatoes, Marconi and Shoshito peppers and Florida Market eggplant. I have three 4x16 feet raised beds so I'm only starting a few plants of each variety. I was thinking about starting the yellow squash, zukes and cukes second week of March but, after hearing your schedule, will start seeds the last of this month. I'm hoping to grow some "greens" this summer and have started seeds for Egyptian spinach, Ethiopian kale, Callaloo, Red Malabar spinach, Orach and Jewels of Opar. First time growing these "greens".
Started my peppers and tomatoes 2 weeks ago. This was the fastest I saw them germinate (I had tomatoes up in 3 days! All the peppers in 7!) --- but it was my first time planting primarily hybrids. They do seem to come out faster. I always start my summer squash indoors. Squash vine borer ars horrible here. Having them bigger helps with this issue.
So happy to hear again about the Rose tomato, started them (with some others) last Sunday, February 5th, covered with vermiculite (have lots of that). I'm excited! Thank you, Travis!
Man your channel is a blessing from God above! I lived in SW Florida and just moved to North Florida, almost in South GA in a similar zone as you. Quite different growing here
zone 8a, obx NC - Started all types of onion family on jan1, Cabbage last week and lettuces and spinach this week. Next week the tomatoes, marigolds and winter squashes get started and Im going to hold off until mid march to start the peppers as they grow so slowly and I have to wait for some room in my garden :D Have a great week!
I transplant eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, most herbs and head lettuce. I direct some everything else.
I've started my peppers & a few herbs already
Wise words from start to finish. In the past you have used plastic cling wrap to ensure consistent moisture like the Big Boys do in their sprouting cabinets. If you use Freeze-Tite brand wrap from Amazon or Walmart, you'll find that it doesn't present the same hassles as Glad or Saran. I direct seed summer squash and cucumbers as you do, but also icebox watermelon, which will grow out in a hoop house. Start 120-day leeks in March in deep cells. All else in late April for Memorial Day set out. Bootstrap Farmer carries my favorite plasticware for seed starting.
Good tip on the cling wrap. The best stuff I've found for that is the plastic wrap from ULINE that's used to wrap pallets prior to shipping.
I started my hot peppers for zone 7b on the 4th of February as they take a while to germinate and they grow slower than tomatoes, so they can be ready by the 3rd week of April in Virginia.
With the exception of carrots, beets and parsnips I work on the rule of bigger seeds get direct sown
I enjoyed that! I agree with all your reasons for direct sowing or starting indoors. Up here our season is short enough that getting a head start is even more important if we want to get a harvest of certain crops. I always direct sow my bean seeds but I push the season a bit, so I will start a flat indoors too at the same time as I sow outdoors so I can fill in any gaps with a similar sized plug to the ones outside, some years that has really saved my bacon!
Klaus
Which vegetables do you transplant in your backyard garden? Let us know!
SHOP LAZY DOG FARM FIG TREES: lazydogfarm.com/collections/fig-trees
0:00 Intro
0:50 Why Should You Transplant Some Veggies?
3:41 Which Vegetables Should You Transplant?
7:45 Which Vegetables Should You Direct Seed?
10:59 Planting Heirloom Tomatoes in the Greenhouse
This was extremely helpful... thanks!
Thank You Travis! I guess next video will talk about seed starting supplies. Especially interested in the trays and how many cells per tray, which plants need bigger cells than others etc. AND where is best place to buy seed starting trays. Thx. Chuck in Jensen Beach.
You got it!
Spacing and control are the two biggest we do so much in the greenhouse. And if you don't have a greenhouse you can make some "Cold Frames" that do just as good of a job.
Nice video. And yes, I have already started tomatoes. Brocolinni, onions. Prepping potatoes and planning for staggering starting and direct seeding in my 9b Sacramento garden. Wish me luck as I finish eating my winter garden of broccoli, cauliflower, chard and snap peas.
Hey, Travis! I pretty much do it your way - Works for me!
SE North Carolina. I fall about 2-3 weeks behind you, so I always look forward to your planting videos as another guide. Megaton cabbage last week, along with some long-germination time flowers. Hot peppers next week (they always seem to take about 7-8 longer than sweet peppers), seeet peppers and tomatoes feb 22. Going to split these giant butternut squash I order from you - half transplant half direct seed. I’m interested to see if the transplants out grow the vine borers (insert your favorite curse word). Hoping the mustard cut in will help too.
That'll be a good experiment on the giant butternuts. Hope you can grow some big ones!
My garden this year will be limited. Just what I can manage after dark. Too busy working hurricane relief. 7 days a week since October. Only stopping for the Holidays. Never see my house in the day.
Busy man!
Already started alot of mine. Especially peppers because they go in grow bags anyway. Usually by the time they see the sun they’re already flowering. Big slicers I’m trying indoors this year instead of fighting our insane sun and uv index the cherry tomato’s and smaller will be outside.
Travis will you or do you have a detail video on a single plot of multiple vegetables? What you can and cannot plant on the same row or next row?
We tend to not mix a lot of different veggies in a single plot. But with our new raised bed plot, we will do some of that now.
I start my Capsicum pubescens varieties at Thanksgiving as they are slow to germinate and need a massive headstart, as they don't really produce much in the first year. Most other peppers and tomatoes are now at least 3" tall. I may be stepping them up to larger pots soon.
I handle my seeds about like you do though I have much less space. I have had tomatoes up for a few weeks. So far I am not too impressed with them. Used seed starter mix, heat mat and grow lights. Actually my seeds I started in my aerogarden are doing better. Peppers look good.
Great video
Ill be interested to see how you like Amana. I grew them a couple years and gave up on them. Way too much disease and the flavor wasn't that great. Hopefully you have better luck.
Great info! How about what you did to overcome bermuda grass, nut sedge, and bahia grass? Good old Georgia highway department planted these noxious grasses along the highways, and now these noxious plants are overcoming anything I plant in the ground. PS, roof run off is going 10 feet away to a rain garden with edible landscaping including mayhaw trees in the garden and other plants that can take soggy soil now and then when it rains. That is on the east side of the house. The other side of the house has a ditch system directing roof water around the drip line of peach trees and along a row of raspberries that grow on top of a huglekultur mound. At both places, rain garden and ditch system, I am starting a food forest with plant guilds around the main trees. One tree I am looking to plant are pawpaw trees that will grow on the west side of the house with peach trees further out from the house, the pawpaws growing between the peaches and the house. Pawpaws are an understory tree that likes some shade until bigger trees to start, a perfect place to plant around peach trees. If you know of anyone that will sell pawpaw seeds, please return a reply to this message. Thanks, Russ, central GA
The tarp and till technique works great to remove all those. Till the area, tarp it for a few weeks, pull back the tarp and water, till again, put back the tarp, and keep repeating.
Sounds like a good way to get rid of it eventually. Wear out reserve energy in the roots, etc. until they cannot survive. No sun, no energy, they die, die die! LOL
Dolly Parton variety produces big tomatoes…..good tomato.
Travis. What about beets or rutabagas. My unground planting was sparce. At best. Indoors???
I do usually transplant rutabagas. I have done beets both ways.
@@LazyDogFarm is indoors a higher %. I planted beets twice in the fall and barely got 25 %. Ggermination
Thank you!! So appreciated.
You are so welcome!
Interesting on your take on determinate vs indeterminate tomatoes
Ok, we covered how soon you start the seeds and what you like to start in the green house, but when do you like to start feeding your seed starts? And how often do you feed them and is it 1/4 strength, 1/2 strength, or full strength?
I usually start feeding them when they have their second set of leaves. I just put a few ounces of Agrothrive in a bucket or my injector and feed them that low dosage each time I water.
I try to get the timing right to avoid transplanting.
If I buy anymore end of season perennials I will definitely check to make sure it even has roots. The plant looked great until I planted it the next day-no roots😮
I started spinach, swiss chard and pak choi last week plus my onions. I might have jumped the gun a bit, we'll see. Mid April target for 6B. Also some cabbage and dinosaur kale this week although I prefer fall. It has all geminated in a 65 degree spare bedroom I've shut off and now turned into a grow room. Lights are now warming it up a bit. Anything else will be mid March to early April. Also, used perlite the first couple of years but had vermiculite part of last year and for this year. Slightly smaller and less blowy but there isn't any difference on top the starting mix except you can't buy the jumbo bag like perlite and it seems more expensive.
When do you start the okra plants for transplant?
Usually in early March.
Have you ever planned any pencilcobb corn 🌽
Travis, why did you use perlite instead of soil to cover your newly planted seeds?
Provides a little extra drainage and aeration on top of the seeds. The commercial greenhouse guys around here have been doing it for years. We tried it several years ago and like it, so we kept doing it.
I'm in zone 9a and started the first round of tomatoes and peppers 2 weeks ago. Today I started flowers, okra, and watermelons. I'm still learning and still don't have my timing exactly right. These peppers and tomatoes are aggravating me. They were planted 12ish days ago and about 2/3 of the seeds have germinated. Every day a few more come up. How long do you give them to germinate before you write it off and replant?
Tomatoes can take 10-14 days sometimes. And some peppers can take up to 4 weeks.
If you just have a small space to grow and have a two seed trays can you move the trays outside when the days are sunny and move them inside at night or is it better just to leave them inside until they ready to plant or does it make a difference. Thank you have a great evening
I find soaking my okra seeds overnight will help with germination and they seem to grow quickly. I've never started my winter squash and transplanted them but I think I will this year.
You have the same heat and humidity I have and my cukes almost always caves in to disease before I get many cukes, is there a more disease resistant variety I can plant? I like the pickling cukes and only one plant of slicers because I'm the only person in my house who likes them raw. I also have the same problem with watermelon, they succumb to disease before the melons get past baseball size. Any suggestions for a disease resistant good sweet watermelon?
Supremo is really disease resistant. Also the Excelsior variety we're growing this year. Not sure about the watermelon disease resistance. I usually go for looks or flavor on those.
@@LazyDogFarm didn't you buy a lb of the Baltic Rose from Wood Prairie?, Let's do an experiment, you plant on the full moon in a raised bed and I'll plant mine on a dark moon and let's see what the difference is. I'll video my harvest, you do the same and we'll compare, okay?
Down here in Tallahassee, I’m about a month behind getting tomato seeds started. Should I just pass on seeding this year, and look for plants?
Depends on how many plants you'll need. Growing your own plants is more cost effective, but you'd need to get them started soon.
Travis we’re did you buy the frame for the greenhouse?
Our greenhouse came from Atlas Greenhouses.
Travis is it hard to plant Borage that you have started indoors
I've transplanted Borage from seed trays and it did well, so I would think it would be fine. Borage doesn't care for our heat down here, so I only grew it once though.
I'm curious about the "stepping up". For the plants that you "step up" I start the seeds in a clear plastic cup(same size as a red solo cup) filled about 1/3 full of soil As the plant grows I add more soil. I will usually add soil twice throughout the growing process each time adding another 1/3 to the cup. This has worked very well for me with tomatoes and peppers and I started doing it to eliminate the process of transplanting small plugs into a bigger container. So I'm wondering if there is a benefit to stepping up seedlings over what I've been doing.
The only reason we ever "step up" plants is because they are becoming root bound or root wrapped in their current cells or containers. If there's plenty of room for the roots, no need to do so.
can i trans plant my onions in pro mix or do i need something with added nutrients ?
You can start onion seeds in ProMix, but I'd transplant them into something that was more fertile.
Will you have any more Malta black fig trees this year?
We will have a few. That variety is extremely difficult to propagate.
@@LazyDogFarm thank you! I’ll keep my fingers crossed.
Hey Travis I am interested in getting a fig tree. Never had one but what I have learned from watching your channel has been awesome information. If you had 1 fig tree what variety and type would it be?
If you've never grown one, I'd highly recommend Conadria. It's an easy, fast-growing tree and the figs are delicious.
@@LazyDogFarm placed the order. Thanks for the info Travis and keep them videos coming buddy
I'm in zone 8b, coastal SC. I'm starting seeds today! My last is similar to yours, but I've never started winter squash or pumpkins early. I might do that this year because I had such a hard time with direct seeding those last year.
Seems a little late..but.heck
U know what works
Seedless watermelon seeds...gives the question of old, which came first, the chicken or the egg, a run for it's money.
I'd usually give tomatoes at least two weeks. Peppers can take up to 4 weeks sometimes. Just gotta stay patient.
💪🏽
If we don't buy expensive seed we don't fall in love with the expensive seed produce 🙊🙊🙊
True.
Are you ever on the Hoss tools row by row show anymore?
No. I haven't been over there since I resigned.
Why do you use