Thanks for the tutorial! I was having trouble trying to figure out how to support both sides of the servos and this video gave me the solution i needed. The tip on keeping the servo horn in place after calibration and using the holes to adjust the angles was really useful too.
i have been wanting to build my own robot spider for years now, now that i am a bit older and know a bit more, im willing to try this tutorial. very clear instructions already. ill be sure to donate something for your efforts. great stuff
Potentiometers are the weakest link in many servos. Pots wear out over time. Once the pot starts to wear out, the servo starts to jitter. This jittering makes the pot wear out even more. In order for servos to last a long time, I think encoders are the way to go. I've tried several experiments with putting encoders inside of servos but I don't have a solution I really like yet. If you're so inclined, take a look at my Halloween Hex (I think it's my channel's trailer). I made the hexapod before I had a 3D printer. In the future, I hope to come up with my own 3D printed hexapod. The very first hexapod I made was made using Popsicle sticks. It didn't work very well but it was still fun to make a robot from really cheap parts. Thanks for sharing your cool design. I look forward to watching more of your videos.
Wow your hexapod looks very nice, well done! yeah the potentiometer wearing over time is a total pain. In more expensive servos they actually use hall encoders, e.g. Dynamixel servos.
Yeah they look like a good option, thank you, I might give it a try. I was just hoping to find a standard size one to reuse as many parts as I can. But a tiny light-weight spider robot sounds tempting too...
@@MakeYourPet I will follow your work close, my friend. I have the same problem as you. I also want to find nice and cheap servos to build an Hexapod. I will share a little of my research so far with you. I hope it can help you. I suggested the MG92B servos because this hexapod (ruclips.net/video/To2Y6Mhu-CE/видео.html) uses them and the movements look ok. I am actually thinking on building this one. For sure would be nice to use the MG996R or the MG995 (as far as I know they are basically the same) because they are cheap, but the movements are not really very nice. As you can see here below: This one uses MG995: ruclips.net/video/HRC5HrN8KD0/видео.html (this one doesn't look so bad) This one uses MG996R: ruclips.net/video/Ds6gBtItyZ0/видео.html The best hexapods use the DYNAMIXEL servos, but they are really expensive. This is the best one I have found: ruclips.net/video/RluQvXL1tgQ/видео.html This is the second best: ruclips.net/video/VwTd5cWJx2M/видео.html Yours is the third best out there in my opinion: ruclips.net/video/vLr9JiVqL_Q/видео.html
Wow this is super helpful thank you. :) Yeah I agree, the one that uses the MG92B servos looks nice and has smooth movements. I should give it a try! Yes Dynamixels are the best servos that money can buy. And WOW being 3rd on the list of cool hexapods on RUclips is a big deal so thank you
Because Im using a FDM printer, flat parts that can lay on printer bed horizontally come out much stronger. But I agree that the curved one looks way cooler. Now Im thinking about trying that on the main hexapod too...
@@MakeYourPet Yeah, I completely agree about the strength trade-off. Designing around FDM is often a fun challenge. It is a really cool design though, I'd love to see how it works out.
Did you adjust the pulse frequency down to 50 Hz considering that the MG996R is an analog servo, whereas the 35 kg servos you are using appear to be digital? May be a really stupid thing of me to point out, but you didn't specifically mention it in the video :-).
Afaik the MG996R is digital (or at least they claim it is). But that is a very important point that you mentioned. Yes I run the hexapod with 50Hz even though my servos could do 300Hz
No documentation on the 3d printing process. I have released the STL files, and they are all easy to print. I used PLA on my Ender 3, but you can use any material really, based on your preference.
I just started down this path of creation and have printed many (but not all) of parts using the following settings: .2 layer height 30% infill 3 walls, 4 top and bottom I used PETG at about 60 speed. Most parts don't need supports, but you may need them for the femurs and coxas.
What layer height and infill density are you using for your parts? I'm planning on building the frame and 1 leg for testing would 0.2mm layer height and 20% infill density be ok?
Thanks for the tutorial! I was having trouble trying to figure out how to support both sides of the servos and this video gave me the solution i needed. The tip on keeping the servo horn in place after calibration and using the holes to adjust the angles was really useful too.
i have been wanting to build my own robot spider for years now, now that i am a bit older and know a bit more, im willing to try this tutorial. very clear instructions already. ill be sure to donate something for your efforts. great stuff
Love this project series man. Would be really keen to see a video on your control/animation design process.
Thank you. I was actually thinking about making something like that to show some of the complexity.
Another awesome video, thanks for trying to make it cheaper. Keep up the good work.
Potentiometers are the weakest link in many servos. Pots wear out over time. Once the pot starts to wear out, the servo starts to jitter. This jittering makes the pot wear out even more.
In order for servos to last a long time, I think encoders are the way to go. I've tried several experiments with putting encoders inside of servos but I don't have a solution I really like yet.
If you're so inclined, take a look at my Halloween Hex (I think it's my channel's trailer). I made the hexapod before I had a 3D printer. In the future, I hope to come up with my own 3D printed hexapod.
The very first hexapod I made was made using Popsicle sticks. It didn't work very well but it was still fun to make a robot from really cheap parts.
Thanks for sharing your cool design. I look forward to watching more of your videos.
Wow your hexapod looks very nice, well done! yeah the potentiometer wearing over time is a total pain. In more expensive servos they actually use hall encoders, e.g. Dynamixel servos.
hey I'm just wondering how you made one out of popsicle sticks? Sorry for this late question!
I wanna see somebody make a hexapod with synthetic muscle fibers to increase leg strength.
Very cool! You invest a Lot of time recording and editing
Hello,
Very good job. I would like to know where to buy the flexible sheath servomotor wire passage
You might want to try the MG92B servos. They might be a good choice for your project.
Yeah they look like a good option, thank you, I might give it a try. I was just hoping to find a standard size one to reuse as many parts as I can. But a tiny light-weight spider robot sounds tempting too...
@@MakeYourPet I will follow your work close, my friend. I have the same problem as you. I also want to find nice and cheap servos to build an Hexapod. I will share a little of my research so far with you. I hope it can help you.
I suggested the MG92B servos because this hexapod (ruclips.net/video/To2Y6Mhu-CE/видео.html) uses them and the movements look ok. I am actually thinking on building this one.
For sure would be nice to use the MG996R or the MG995 (as far as I know they are basically the same) because they are cheap, but the movements are not really very nice. As you can see here below:
This one uses MG995: ruclips.net/video/HRC5HrN8KD0/видео.html (this one doesn't look so bad)
This one uses MG996R: ruclips.net/video/Ds6gBtItyZ0/видео.html
The best hexapods use the DYNAMIXEL servos, but they are really expensive.
This is the best one I have found: ruclips.net/video/RluQvXL1tgQ/видео.html
This is the second best: ruclips.net/video/VwTd5cWJx2M/видео.html
Yours is the third best out there in my opinion: ruclips.net/video/vLr9JiVqL_Q/видео.html
Wow this is super helpful thank you. :) Yeah I agree, the one that uses the MG92B servos looks nice and has smooth movements. I should give it a try!
Yes Dynamixels are the best servos that money can buy. And WOW being 3rd on the list of cool hexapods on RUclips is a big deal so thank you
@@MakeYourPet I would really love it if you could make a smaller light-weight spider! thanks
Thanks for the awesome video. What is correct angle when installing?
Fantastic design so far! I really like the femur design on your cheaper test platform as well, it's a really cool look.
Because Im using a FDM printer, flat parts that can lay on printer bed horizontally come out much stronger. But I agree that the curved one looks way cooler. Now Im thinking about trying that on the main hexapod too...
@@MakeYourPet Yeah, I completely agree about the strength trade-off. Designing around FDM is often a fun challenge. It is a really cool design though, I'd love to see how it works out.
Awesome waiting for your video.. ❤
Where did I buy the touch sensor
What wires did you use to connect the touch sensors to the servo controller board?
I used these -> a.co/d/8q69ixe
VERY interesting! I joined your discord group
very beautiful work !
Regards..
Awesome video! Is there any possibility to switch out the 35kg servo motors for cheaper ones? Like 14kgs or won't this be enough?
MAKE IT DO LITTLE TRICKS!!!!
Did you adjust the pulse frequency down to 50 Hz considering that the MG996R is an analog servo, whereas the 35 kg servos you are using appear to be digital? May be a really stupid thing of me to point out, but you didn't specifically mention it in the video :-).
Afaik the MG996R is digital (or at least they claim it is). But that is a very important point that you mentioned. Yes I run the hexapod with 50Hz even though my servos could do 300Hz
is there some documentation on the 3d print process? Filament, settings, etc...
No documentation on the 3d printing process. I have released the STL files, and they are all easy to print. I used PLA on my Ender 3, but you can use any material really, based on your preference.
@@MakeYourPet perfect, that helps!
I just started down this path of creation and have printed many (but not all) of parts using the following settings:
.2 layer height
30% infill
3 walls, 4 top and bottom
I used PETG at about 60 speed.
Most parts don't need supports, but you may need them for the femurs and coxas.
I love your content keep it up bro!
I'm watching this to make the leg in babft
I would like to know how the feet switch works in the gaiting code?
The feed switch is to detect when the leg hits the ground, to handle uneven surfaces
What layer height and infill density are you using for your parts? I'm planning on building the frame and 1 leg for testing would 0.2mm layer height and 20% infill density be ok?
Yes the default print settings should be fine.
Does anyone have any tips on how to use adafruit board along with arduino instead of the pololu servo controller?
It is not that straight forward, but if you are interested, join the Discord discussions as we are doing some work to support more options there...
can i use other controller boards?
I still need to add support for other boards. So unfortunately not yet.
@@MakeYourPet thank you
@@MakeYourPet hi i would like to ask which of the Coxa to print? coxa or coxa 2? whats the difference?
@@arcline7910 print coxa 2. You should join my Discord server for more details on the build.
@@MakeYourPet yes i will join and thank you
I,m building a 9 foot robot