I've never had a greenhouse and many people in bonsai don't. My view for those that winter bonsai outside is If you can work on your trees in winter then you don't live where it's cold. I've been involved with bonsai for over 50+ years and live in Minnesota, U.S.A. We have an additional problem Neil never mentioned, critter like mice, voles, rabbits and deer. I often post this for new to bonsai with what I have found works for me. Wintering Bonsai for Newbies First and foremost you should learn and know the climate zone where you live and the climate tolerance of your bonsai (that information is available online). Everything I've posted doesn't apply to everyone but are things to be considered on where one lives. It is important for you to understand that junipers store much of their energy in their foliage and should be left outside for the winter so removing too much foliage all at once is ill advised. Whatever container your tree is in it would be best that the rim of the container be buried in the ground until spring since being in the ground eliminated the worry of adequate soil moisture in the container. Some bonsai pots are suitable for cold weather and some are not, and having the pot in the ground equalizes the expansion of frozen soil both inside and outside the pot and helps reduce the chance of having a broken pot. It is also important to know that every time a plant experiences a freeze/thaw cycle some of the fine hair roots that feed the plant are broken and if a plant experiences too many freeze/thaw cycles your tree will become stressed and could become so stressed it could possibly go into shock and die. So once the soil freezes it is best the soil remain frozen until spring. Of course this depends on where you live as to how severe winter in your area is. Some people here in Minnesota have heated winter storage facilities where the temp is kept just above freezing all winter long. I have preferred to bag my trees in landscape fabric (the spun polypropylene type) (the new grow bags also work well) to protect them from the wind and critters such as mice, voles, and rabbits and bury them outside in the ground to the top of their pots(or a little deeper) and mulch with cedar bark mulch (does not promote fungal growth that leaves could) (pine straw and baled straw also works well) and put up an additional barrier(fence) of landscape fabric for added protection from wind and critters (spun poly landscape fabric will let some light and water thru but dampens the effects of strong winds and it discourages critters from attempting to chew thru it). This method has served me well for hardy bonsai for decades. I live in the most extreme area of our country in SE Minnesota (zone 4b) because typically we get sub zero temps most often with only an inch or so of snow as an insulating layer. Our adequate snow cover comes after our extreme temps have passed.
Wow, what a discussion. I live in South Africa and we don’t have any freezing issues at all. But your whole lecture was so interesting as a whole that I watched the whole thing. Knowledge is power. Thanks for posting.
Thank you so much for this session. I am living in Toronto, Canada, where almost two months we are more or less-25°C. Last year l lost few trees inside my greenhouse. If I were watching this program before, I could save some of them! This year I have built one large table with two shelves. Top one field with dry leaves, wood pellets and peat moss. After that I placed my plants. I am watering every 3 days and as of November 06, not cold weave started. I have a plan to cover the upper part with a white winter clothes. Would appreciate if I get your feedback.
Thank you for sharing these classes! They are very informative, eye opening, a greaat blessing especially for someone like me who is at the beginning of the road in the craft of the art of Bonsai. Thank you, health and strength to all!
nice video, I learn a lot when you use the heater mat on winter, should we feed the roots, or use vitamin like B1 or superthrive? or just water as need it thanks
Great info as always very interested in your talk on complete dark in dormancy I live in Canada zone 4 my only success in winter care involves delay the moving trees to inside a un heated building in the dark for the extreme cold January February below -15 c to -30 c the dry wind in the extreme cold kills any other attempt can you comment please on the need for sun at these extreme temp I mainly have native trees from this area No greenhouse yet so difficult situation. Any part above the snow level suffers badly outside
To answer Ryan’s question at 6 minutes in. The branch you want to take off depends on which way you are planning on bending the branch. You of course want to leave one. However the one you keep is the one that will be on the outside of the bend to create more depth and a better foliage pad once you bring the smaller branches that are secondary branches in towards the tree more. It all depends on how that branch is going to be bent.
well I have the issue too that I live un south of France where temperatures are at -5° min at winter, how do you put these trees to dorm? We do have wind, the mistral, each year it reaches 100km/h for a couple or days, do I expose the tree on purpose to achieve "dorming conditions"? else I would never have significant negative temperatures in winter....
What happens when it hits -40 like we get up in northern bc. Should I bring them in? I have dwarf Japanese junipers and I don't want to lose them. I live in an apartment and dont have access to a greenhouse. I can put them on the deck and cover them with plastic but I worry about deeply freezing the root ball and the foliage.
Hola, me encanta sus enseñanzas soy de chile, y agradezco por la información. Quería saber si ustedes podrían ponerle sub titulo en español? Ya que somos muchos los que los seguimos en RUclips pero no sabemos ingles. Por favor
I have to ask, it's always bei g said when learning bonsai to not water a frozen tree. Why are you saying g to water a frozen tree? Also I have never had a deciduous tree bleed when it's dormant from bringing it indoors to work on them. People bring dormant trees I doors all the time to work on them and to display them for a couple days. But then you say it's ok to bring a frozen tree in to where it's just warm enough to thaw to water it?
I don't know what you mean by 'zone', I live in Belgium. From what I've read, I learned that it can go dormant but it wasn't clear whether it needs to go dormant. I keep mine inside so obviously it's not going in to dormancy...
Hi. I'm from Austria and have a little problem with understanding the name of this robust juniper. Does anyone have the botanical name of it? Then I can search for the German name 🙂 thx
Hi, es handelt sich hierbei um Juniperus procumbens auf den deutsche namen würde ich mich nicht verlassen da es immer mehrere gibt und das sehr irreführend sein kann. Der Deutsche Name der mir am sinnvollsten erscheint wäre Krichender Walcholder. Schöne grüße aus Niederösterrreich ; )
I've never had a greenhouse and many people in bonsai don't. My view for those that winter bonsai outside is If you can work on your trees in winter then you don't live where it's cold. I've been involved with bonsai for over 50+ years and live in Minnesota, U.S.A. We have an additional problem Neil never mentioned, critter like mice, voles, rabbits and deer. I often post this for new to bonsai with what I have found works for me. Wintering Bonsai for Newbies
First and foremost you should learn and know the climate zone where you live and the climate tolerance of your bonsai (that information is available online).
Everything I've posted doesn't apply to everyone but are things to be considered on where one lives.
It is important for you to understand that junipers store much of their energy in their foliage and should be left outside for the winter so removing too much foliage all at once is ill advised. Whatever container your tree is in it would be best that the rim of the container be buried in the ground until spring since being in the ground eliminated the worry of adequate soil moisture in the container. Some bonsai pots are suitable for cold weather and some are not, and having the pot in the ground equalizes the expansion of frozen soil both inside and outside the pot and helps reduce the chance of having a broken pot. It is also important to know that every time a plant experiences a freeze/thaw cycle some of the fine hair roots that feed the plant are broken and if a plant experiences too many freeze/thaw cycles your tree will become stressed and could become so stressed it could possibly go into shock and die. So once the soil freezes it is best the soil remain frozen until spring. Of course this depends on where you live as to how severe winter in your area is. Some people here in Minnesota have heated winter storage facilities where the temp is kept just above freezing all winter long. I have preferred to bag my trees in landscape fabric (the spun polypropylene type) (the new grow bags also work well) to protect them from the wind and critters such as mice, voles, and rabbits and bury them outside in the ground to the top of their pots(or a little deeper) and mulch with cedar bark mulch (does not promote fungal growth that leaves could) (pine straw and baled straw also works well) and put up an additional barrier(fence) of landscape fabric for added protection from wind and critters (spun poly landscape fabric will let some light and water thru but dampens the effects of strong winds and it discourages critters from attempting to chew thru it). This method has served me well for hardy bonsai for decades.
I live in the most extreme area of our country in SE Minnesota (zone 4b) because typically we get sub zero temps most often with only an inch or so of snow as an insulating layer. Our adequate snow cover comes after our extreme temps have passed.
Wow, what a discussion. I live in South Africa and we don’t have any freezing issues at all. But your whole lecture was so interesting as a whole that I watched the whole thing. Knowledge is power.
Thanks for posting.
Part a sermon, part a show. Very interesting, very useful. Puts a lot of things in place. Many thanks!
Thank you so much for this session. I am living in Toronto, Canada, where almost two months we are more or less-25°C. Last year l lost few trees inside my greenhouse. If I were watching this program before, I could save some of them! This year I have built one large table with two shelves. Top one field with dry leaves, wood pellets and peat moss. After that I placed my plants. I am watering every 3 days and as of November 06, not cold weave started. I have a plan to cover the upper part with a white winter clothes. Would appreciate if I get your feedback.
Thank you for sharing these classes! They are very informative, eye opening, a greaat blessing especially for someone like me who is at the beginning of the road in the craft of the art of Bonsai. Thank you, health and strength to all!
It would be nice to hear the questions, other wise excellent series, please keep the good work up.
Thanks so much for making these videos publicly available, I’ve learned so much from them! 🙏
I love this channel ❤
Thank you very much for your excellent lectures. Really appreciate it! All the best, Helen
nice video, I learn a lot
when you use the heater mat on winter, should we feed the roots, or use vitamin like B1 or superthrive? or just water as need it
thanks
Great info as always very interested in your talk on complete dark in dormancy I live in Canada zone 4 my only success in winter care involves delay the moving trees to inside a un heated building in the dark for the extreme cold January February below -15 c to -30 c the dry wind in the extreme cold kills any other attempt can you comment please on the need for sun at these extreme temp I mainly have native trees from this area No greenhouse yet so difficult situation. Any part above the snow level suffers badly outside
Thanks for all that knowledge.
1 question
What is the "correct" name of the juniper you were working on.
C'ant find it.
thanks in advance.
It's Juniper Procumbens but i don't know what variety of Procumbens or if there are any other than "Nana", which i found in my area of Europe.
To answer Ryan’s question at 6 minutes in. The branch you want to take off depends on which way you are planning on bending the branch. You of course want to leave one. However the one you keep is the one that will be on the outside of the bend to create more depth and a better foliage pad once you bring the smaller branches that are secondary branches in towards the tree more. It all depends on how that branch is going to be bent.
Peter thank you for the wonderful video ,CAN I AIR LAYER A PECEA GLAUCA thank you in advance.
Super informative. I really appreciate this video!
well I have the issue too that I live un south of France where temperatures are at -5° min at winter, how do you put these trees to dorm?
We do have wind, the mistral, each year it reaches 100km/h for a couple or days, do I expose the tree on purpose to achieve "dorming conditions"? else I would never have significant negative temperatures in winter....
What happens when it hits -40 like we get up in northern bc. Should I bring them in? I have dwarf Japanese junipers and I don't want to lose them. I live in an apartment and dont have access to a greenhouse. I can put them on the deck and cover them with plastic but I worry about deeply freezing the root ball and the foliage.
Do you use Diatomacious Earth for pests?
Hola, me encanta sus enseñanzas soy de chile, y agradezco por la información. Quería saber si ustedes podrían ponerle sub titulo en español? Ya que somos muchos los que los seguimos en RUclips pero no sabemos ingles. Por favor
Larch winter care 16:00
Thank you for the upload!
I have to ask, it's always bei g said when learning bonsai to not water a frozen tree. Why are you saying g to water a frozen tree? Also I have never had a deciduous tree bleed when it's dormant from bringing it indoors to work on them. People bring dormant trees I doors all the time to work on them and to display them for a couple days. But then you say it's ok to bring a frozen tree in to where it's just warm enough to thaw to water it?
Hey Ryan, as always a great video.
I was wondering does a Chinese Elm need a dormancy period?
I don't know what you mean by 'zone', I live in Belgium. From what I've read, I learned that it can go dormant but it wasn't clear whether it needs to go dormant. I keep mine inside so obviously it's not going in to dormancy...
They don't need to but will if they get too cold. They are semi deciduous
Podrían ponerle sub titulo en español por favor!
Hi. I'm from Austria and have a little problem with understanding the name of this robust juniper. Does anyone have the botanical name of it? Then I can search for the German name 🙂 thx
Juniperus procumbens
Hi, es handelt sich hierbei um Juniperus procumbens auf den deutsche namen würde ich mich nicht verlassen da es immer mehrere gibt und das sehr irreführend sein kann. Der Deutsche Name der mir am sinnvollsten erscheint wäre Krichender Walcholder. Schöne grüße aus Niederösterrreich ; )
2017?
Brad Bjerga it's part of an old series from Mirai Live, they've just uploaded it for free to RUclips now.
Jasper Shepherd Smith oh I see!
Too much talk less action.