and i think they used real WOOD boards -i dont know why there has to be aggression towards other surfers everyone is just trying to catch that wave-leave your ego on shore and help each other get better
These guys had huge balls, healthy lungs and leg ropes weren't around. Kudos to those guys and the amazing laid-back times they savoured in and out of the water.
An old surfer in his 70's here, we were experts in retaining our boards! no leg ropes then! mostly the boards were so heavy that they didn't get carried by the wave for long, so if luck is on your side and you're a good swimmer, you had good chance of recovering your board after a serious wipeout....ah memories.
What a treat to see Dora and Noll on the same wave. I’ve always thought that it irritated Miki Dora that you can’t hot dog a North Shore wave. Cramped his style.
Pioneers making the board do what it didn't want to do, a lot harder than it looks. Board designers took decades to catch up. Amazing conditions for Sunset beach, Pipe, and Waimea. These are all famous surfers of the times. Classic.
Fantastic film, and seems so real, these men were athletes, just to paddle out would be enough, then to have the energy and skill to surf these huge waves is insane, but what a buzz it must have been, and what innovation they have brought, listen to this with headphones on and you feel you are there👌👍
My pops was a surfer back in the day, he taught me all there is to surfing, gotta go out surfing with em some day! He was real good but that was back in the gnarly 90s, my how things changed not so young anymore 😅
Wasn't sure if that was Hynson or Edwards. They both had three stringer signature models but that board looked like it had a 1" balsa stringer so before that era. No mistaking Noll and Dora.
What is sooo obvious in these surfers- Then was that these people ALL "look like" they're in great shape- No 'fatties' back then! Ohhh America How you have Fallen as you been lied to from The Top Down!!!!!!!
This totally reminds me of the day I stole the steel wheels off my sisters skates so I could make a skateboard . . . Good times (unless you hit a pebble)
Back then the sharks had plenty to eat too. So they didn't bother us as much. As Laird Hamilton said,people back then weren't as homogenised as today, so you could really be yourself and have fun, even leave your car unlocked! Notice how no-one gets to upset about people dropping in.
True pioneers. Fearless. No leashes, no jet ski to bail you out. Legends.
and i think they used real WOOD boards -i dont know why there has to be aggression towards other surfers everyone is just trying to catch that wave-leave your ego on shore and help each other get better
The aggressive behaviour come when you add money and make it a professional corporate sport
These guys had huge balls, healthy lungs and leg ropes weren't around. Kudos to those guys and the amazing laid-back times they savoured in and out of the water.
If only we could go back in time
😍🌊🏄♀️🏄🏻❤️
Great footage. Terrific surfing of Micky Dora and other great surfers of the era.
LOL fewer and fewer guys left that would recognize Mickey. I'm pretty sure one of the others is Greg Noll
It’s MIKI , not Mickey.
Short for Mikolos.
Excuse me , Miklos.
Unless you've actually ridden those old boards in surf that size, you have no idea of the tremendous skill you're looking at.
Exactly, it’s like riding/turning a tree log !
Look at 'em, just living in the moment
An old surfer in his 70's here, we were experts in retaining our boards! no leg ropes then! mostly the boards were so heavy that they didn't get carried by the wave for long, so if luck is on your side and you're a good swimmer, you had good chance of recovering your board after a serious wipeout....ah memories.
What a treat to see Dora and Noll on the same wave.
I’ve always thought that it irritated Miki Dora that you can’t hot dog a North Shore wave. Cramped his style.
Surfing 🏄♂️was way cooler back in the 60s
Absolutely!
For sure . It still has me enthralled at 66 ! My grands call me grom ...I'm still a grommet in my soul!!
Pioneers making the board do what it didn't want to do, a lot harder than it looks. Board designers took decades to catch up.
Amazing conditions for Sunset beach, Pipe, and Waimea. These are all famous surfers of the times. Classic.
A lot of Dora. He transitioned well.
Great Dora footage. Gotta love those trunks
Miki Dora was known as "The King of Malibu" and Southern California Surfing Legend.
Also known as "The Black Prince of Malibu."
Cowabunga - They we’re shooting the curl and hanging five while the Wahines watched from the shore in their Woodies.
Crazy man!
Seen a few Moondoggie movies?
CARAGUATATUBA SP 🇧🇷 ASSISTINDO. SENSACIONAL
Fantastic film, and seems so real, these men were athletes, just to paddle out would be enough, then to have the energy and skill to surf these huge waves is insane, but what a buzz it must have been, and what innovation they have brought, listen to this with headphones on and you feel you are there👌👍
Greg Noll's there too...RIP..
My pops was a surfer back in the day, he taught me all there is to surfing, gotta go out surfing with em some day! He was real good but that was back in the gnarly 90s, my how things changed not so young anymore 😅
Ah not really I'm still young lol, one day I wish to have my pops go surfing with me ❤
Please please bring me back.!!
For a guy who hated being dropped in on at knee-high Malibu, Dora sure is doing it a lot here in overhead Waimea, for example, on Greg Noll 02:03.
Remember it was ok for Mikey to drop in on anyone but a problem if it was done to DA KAT
I love good surfing, greetings from Peru. aloha!
2:02 Greg Noll and Miki Dora at Sunset? 👏👏👍👍🤙🤙😎😎🌊🌊🙌🙌
My father in law surfed in the 50’s and my brother in law has his old long board
I wonder how many of these dudes were actually goofy footed and just didn’t know
Fantastic
Miki Dora was heavily featured in this clip
I think I recognize Rick Grigg and Mike Hynson as well as Dora and Noll.
Wasn't sure if that was Hynson or Edwards. They both had three stringer signature models but that board looked like it had a 1" balsa stringer so before that era. No mistaking Noll and Dora.
What is sooo obvious in these surfers- Then was that these people ALL "look like" they're in great shape- No 'fatties' back then! Ohhh America How you have Fallen as you been lied to from The Top Down!!!!!!!
love it
taken from the movie "Ride the Wild Surf"...
Muchas gracias surfing
These guys led the way. Htrue watermen. Alot of Dora in this. He did much more than surf Malibu!
so cool!
Wrong! Surfing is still the best ! Catch a wave and your sitten on top of the world
If there were only longboards nobody would get pissed if you got dropped in on . 😅
No lease seems unimaginable
Anyone know what kind of camera this would have been filmed with?
8mm
Based on the clarity and use of zooms I'd be inclined to say a 16mm Bolex with the 3 rotating lenses.
16mm
A lot of this is from the movie Ride The Wild Surf and probably the out takes as well so my guess would be a cinema grade move camera like Panaflex.
This totally reminds me of the day I stole the steel wheels off my sisters skates so I could make a skateboard . . . Good times (unless you hit a pebble)
COWABUNGA GREMMIES😎
🤙❤️🤙
Back then the sharks had plenty to eat too. So they didn't bother us as much. As Laird Hamilton said,people back then weren't as homogenised as today, so you could really be yourself and have fun, even leave your car unlocked! Notice how no-one gets to upset about people dropping in.
When people actually kicked-out and not jump off of their boards.
The music was more better too
The grammar also.
Dora