Another amazing instruction video. Im just starting out. I will watch your beginners video playlist. At the moment I have 50 bullet pixels, raspberry Pi 3 but no controller yet. Slowly build it up to have the matrix trees, candy canes, arches, and screen matrixes. Thanks again.
Thanks! Yeah, it's a nice piece of software. Be sure to check out the Wednesday night xLights call (see xlights.org) as they have weekly tutorials on all this and can even help you live if you get stuck somewhere.
I take it those are the bullet style WS2811 12v Nodes? They just push right in the board? Total newbie here, been watching your videos for a week straight now to get up to speed...I can't get enough! Wife thinks I'm crazy but she won't next year when I have a bad ass display! I'm officially hooked!
Haha. Thanks! Yeah, those are the bullet-style. Not held in super tight, but don't really need to since the coro is thick. Yes, it IS an addictive hobby! Good luck! :)
I didn't see groups of nodes (50) connected by pigtails, would you recommend cutting the pigtails off and connecting them together directly? Do you recommend a video on how you daisy chain multiple models together physically, not in xlights.thanks always love watching your videos.
Thanks! That's personal preference really. I tend to to make my props a single string just to avoid an entry point for water, but it probably doesn't matter either way. I tend to think there is loss through connectors and reducing them where possible is better, but it's more of a belief so do whatever works best for you. When daisy-chaining, keep in mind that pixel-to-pixel distance needs to be short (like a foot or so). If you need more distance, you may need to use something like an F-Amp from pixelcontroller.com to boost the signal. Test first to see if you need one, but it doesn't hurt to have a few on hand if you're planning to do something like that. I use one between my two arches because I put them about 20-feet apart and it works great.
@@CanispaterChristmas thanks for the info. My side walk isn't that long just a small curve where I put the marks so I should be fine but ya never know. Any suggestions on how to physically wire them up. Is there a good video out There that you recommend? I'm a little unclear as to how you would run the wire between them.
@@ducebigalow8834 If it has pigtails, you can use extensions or cut the ends and just add wire. Just make sure you're matching up the correct wires. There's usually a - or GND, + and DI/DO. DO will be on the end of the first string and DI will be on the beginning of the 2nd string (data-out to data-in). Or did you mean something else?
@@CanispaterChristmas oh just looking for a good video on how you go from.one prop to the other with one wire. Not exactly sure on how that will look. Or a good pic might help.
@@CanispaterChristmas i googled and read but didn~t come across anything . you saved day again. i added all the downloaded props yesterday to get a visual played music but none of the down loaded props light. thanks
@@paulingalls2133 F16 is the value proposition, but the F48 gives you more flexibility. 16 ports on the F16 are cheaper than 16 ports with an F48. If cost is not driving the decision, the F48 is the way to go. It's a personal decision, but I like the F48 if props are spread out, but the F16 is great if you have a dense prop and don't like the inject power. A lot of factors can go into the decision, but if I started with an F48, I would not have been upset. :)
In 1969 When I was 8 I started taking things apart! Moms hair drier, record player and I got away with it! But then one day I decided I was going to take Dads Ham Radio set apart! My azz still hurts! 🥺
Good video. Nice that you are covering up all the undocumented (in video) thing about using pixels and xlights.... whole hearted thanks for your effort😘
LOL! Not without asking James, but I'm guessing 3 in a row was easier than trying to fit another one in. Look on the bright side, you now have a spare pixel! 😂
Thanks for this video! I was wondering if there was a difference in the strings with different color wiring and you proved there's not and they can be interchanged.
Yeah, wire is wire. Thicker wire (18AWG) seems to work better for longer runs and has less voltage drop, but I haven't compared performance of 2 strings with different sized wire. If two strings are the same voltage pixels and the same protocol (eg: both 2811 or 2812b chips), you can connect them together without a problem. If the chips are different and require different protocols, you'll probably run into trouble getting them to light up properly.
@@CanispaterChristmas I just did my second year of pixels. Both years turned out great. Pretty steep learning curve but thanks to all the good folks here it was a success!
Robert bailey I need some help looked all over you tube for advice.i'am new to rgb;s and xlights. I bought a falcon v16f3 with a 16 channel expansion board. i'm going to have a 16 channel rgb tree along with 8 arches and 8 snowflakes from boscoyo. i'm lost on how to set it up for a show. and once its set up how to move it to my shows in lor
I don't have LOR, but from what I understand from people that do, they run the LOR side of things off the F16 via one of the DMX output ports. You can import your LOR sequences into xLights and add the pixel effects for the pixels. As for learning pixels, I have a beginner playlist: bit.ly/2NsD5Np (several videos covering the basics). I'd also encourage you to check into the forums and/or Facebook groups listed in the video description. There are people running both over there that can give advice/tips. Finally, be sure to check into the xLights zoom room (see xlights.org) on Wednesday nights.
Another question, building my first show and to ease into it budget wise I was going to cut down on the number of pixels for my canes I have 10 canes and was just going to use the middle holes as long as I change the model to reflect what I'm doing it should be OK right
Jeff, another good video, but I'm attempting a mega tree and when I look at the wiring view in xlights I can't see how the strings are tied together any help much appreciated, doing a 180 deg tree.
I made it full screen the model I chose has lines going vertical from bottom to top each string has numbers 1 thru 50 bottom to top but I don't see a yellow line connecting top or bottom. I would have thought you would go up one string and down the next but the way they are numbered everyone starts at the bottom and goes up
OK I'm confused I defined it to look how I want but not how I want to wire it. I defined it 16 string 50 nodes each 1 strand per string but I want a few controller connections as possible like 3. So How should I really define it, sorry for all the questions
Haha. Yeah, it's a little frustrating at first, but you'll get the hang of it. So you can do one, two or four, but not three connections - you want them to divide evenly into the 800 nodes you have. You will have to inject power ~ every 100 nodes for 12V pixels and 50-80 for 5V pixels. I have a video on that too if you don't know how. Also, you may benefit from the Zoom meeting (see xLights.org). It's officially Wednesday night, but people are in the almost all the time and you get to talk live to experts for free (assuming there is someone in there when you dial in).
It's there - just buried. Click on the model, look for model data on the left-hand side. Click to edit (hit the ellipses) to bring up the custom model data. Right-click on the right side where the numbers are and the flips are in that menu.
No, you can add them, but I believe you'll have to "edit display elements" to get them to show up in your sequencing window. Then just add the effects as needed.
This is what I ordered, it is adhesive lined so it should be water-resistant. Comes in all kinds of colors and sizes and the price isn't too bad. buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/dual-wall/3-1-thin-wall-adhesive-lined-7-colors/3-1-adhesive-lined-heat-shrink-tubing
Thanks for the videos. Do you happen to know where 'Flip Horz' button went when the model data dialog is open? Maybe its only on the mac build, but I dont see the same option.
Thanks! Looking at .32, the answer is "it depends." If it's a built-in model, there is a reverse checkbox in the model attributes. And on the custom models... IT' S GONE! You may want to file a bug. :)
Nice one! Thanks Jeff
Thanks! 😂
Another amazing instruction video. Im just starting out. I will watch your beginners video playlist. At the moment I have 50 bullet pixels, raspberry Pi 3 but no controller yet. Slowly build it up to have the matrix trees, candy canes, arches, and screen matrixes. Thanks again.
Thanks! That's awesome! Curious, what brought you to the channel?
Top video again. Didn’t know slights shows you hot to wore some new models up. “Total newb”
Thanks! Yeah, it's a nice piece of software. Be sure to check out the Wednesday night xLights call (see xlights.org) as they have weekly tutorials on all this and can even help you live if you get stuck somewhere.
CanispaterChristmas time difference mite be a killer for me. But I’ll defiantly check it out.
There are people in there outside the normal time of you need help.
I take it those are the bullet style WS2811 12v Nodes? They just push right in the board? Total newbie here, been watching your videos for a week straight now to get up to speed...I can't get enough! Wife thinks I'm crazy but she won't next year when I have a bad ass display! I'm officially hooked!
Haha. Thanks! Yeah, those are the bullet-style. Not held in super tight, but don't really need to since the coro is thick. Yes, it IS an addictive hobby! Good luck! :)
How's the display coming along?
I didn't see groups of nodes (50) connected by pigtails, would you recommend cutting the pigtails off and connecting them together directly? Do you recommend a video on how you daisy chain multiple models together physically, not in xlights.thanks always love watching your videos.
Thanks! That's personal preference really. I tend to to make my props a single string just to avoid an entry point for water, but it probably doesn't matter either way. I tend to think there is loss through connectors and reducing them where possible is better, but it's more of a belief so do whatever works best for you. When daisy-chaining, keep in mind that pixel-to-pixel distance needs to be short (like a foot or so). If you need more distance, you may need to use something like an F-Amp from pixelcontroller.com to boost the signal. Test first to see if you need one, but it doesn't hurt to have a few on hand if you're planning to do something like that. I use one between my two arches because I put them about 20-feet apart and it works great.
@@CanispaterChristmas thanks for the info. My side walk isn't that long just a small curve where I put the marks so I should be fine but ya never know. Any suggestions on how to physically wire them up. Is there a good video out There that you recommend? I'm a little unclear as to how you would run the wire between them.
@@ducebigalow8834 If it has pigtails, you can use extensions or cut the ends and just add wire. Just make sure you're matching up the correct wires. There's usually a - or GND, + and DI/DO. DO will be on the end of the first string and DI will be on the beginning of the 2nd string (data-out to data-in). Or did you mean something else?
@@CanispaterChristmas oh just looking for a good video on how you go from.one prop to the other with one wire. Not exactly sure on how that will look. Or a good pic might help.
Well, you need to run however many wires your pixels need (usually 3 or 4).
how do i flip my candy cane i do not have a flip tab?
Haha. Yeah, it's changed since that video. If you open the model data editor and right-click on the grid area, you'll see multiple options.
@@CanispaterChristmas i googled and read but didn~t come across anything . you saved day again. i added all the downloaded props yesterday to get a visual played music but none of the down loaded props light. thanks
@@CanispaterChristmas i missed a step. got it thanks
@@CanispaterChristmas if i need a controller for lights why wouldn`t i start with f48 and all the smart expansion cards. am i thinking right?
@@paulingalls2133 F16 is the value proposition, but the F48 gives you more flexibility. 16 ports on the F16 are cheaper than 16 ports with an F48. If cost is not driving the decision, the F48 is the way to go. It's a personal decision, but I like the F48 if props are spread out, but the F16 is great if you have a dense prop and don't like the inject power. A lot of factors can go into the decision, but if I started with an F48, I would not have been upset. :)
In 1969 When I was 8 I started taking things apart! Moms hair drier, record player and I got away with it! But then one day I decided I was going to take Dads Ham Radio set apart! My azz still hurts! 🥺
Haha. I can imagine, but did he show you how to put it back together afterwards?
@@CanispaterChristmas He got it going again but no I was not a part of that. I was still in the dog house at that point!! 🙄
Good video.
Nice that you are covering up all the undocumented (in video) thing about using pixels and xlights....
whole hearted thanks for your effort😘
👍
Anybody ever figure out why they decided to do 99 on these canes and not 100!? I’ve got 3 of these btw.
LOL! Not without asking James, but I'm guessing 3 in a row was easier than trying to fit another one in. Look on the bright side, you now have a spare pixel! 😂
Thanks for this video! I was wondering if there was a difference in the strings with different color wiring and you proved there's not and they can be interchanged.
Yeah, wire is wire. Thicker wire (18AWG) seems to work better for longer runs and has less voltage drop, but I haven't compared performance of 2 strings with different sized wire. If two strings are the same voltage pixels and the same protocol (eg: both 2811 or 2812b chips), you can connect them together without a problem. If the chips are different and require different protocols, you'll probably run into trouble getting them to light up properly.
did you wire them all up to one port on the falcon controller? or did you use 3 separate ports?
I used 3 ports for these, but they could also be tied together as one if you need the ports and keep the distance between them short enough.
@@CanispaterChristmas and no need for power injection on each prop?
@@wwaattoo89 Oh no. I only run them at 30% brightness so no problem.
You've inspired me! Pixels and a controller are on the way. Thank you for the informative videos!!
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@@CanispaterChristmas I just did my second year of pixels. Both years turned out great. Pretty steep learning curve but thanks to all the good folks here it was a success!
Robert bailey
I need some help looked all over you tube for advice.i'am new to rgb;s and xlights. I bought a falcon v16f3 with a 16 channel expansion board. i'm going to have a 16 channel rgb tree along with 8 arches and 8 snowflakes from boscoyo. i'm lost on how to set it up for a show. and once its set up how to move it to my shows in lor
I don't have LOR, but from what I understand from people that do, they run the LOR side of things off the F16 via one of the DMX output ports. You can import your LOR sequences into xLights and add the pixel effects for the pixels. As for learning pixels, I have a beginner playlist: bit.ly/2NsD5Np (several videos covering the basics). I'd also encourage you to check into the forums and/or Facebook groups listed in the video description. There are people running both over there that can give advice/tips. Finally, be sure to check into the xLights zoom room (see xlights.org) on Wednesday nights.
Do you have any videos of your house with all the lights on
Yes. I posted 2 sequences this year.
Another question, building my first show and to ease into it budget wise I was going to cut down on the number of pixels for my canes I have 10 canes and was just going to use the middle holes as long as I change the model to reflect what I'm doing it should be OK right
If you change the model to reflect reality, it should be fine.
Jeff, another good video, but I'm attempting a mega tree and when I look at the wiring view in xlights I can't see how the strings are tied together any help much appreciated, doing a 180 deg tree.
Have you tried enlarging the window enough to see the numbers better?
I made it full screen the model I chose has lines going vertical from bottom to top each string has numbers 1 thru 50 bottom to top but I don't see a yellow line connecting top or bottom. I would have thought you would go up one string and down the next but the way they are numbered everyone starts at the bottom and goes up
That will be affected by the model settings. # of strings and strands per string. # of strings is how many controller connections you want.
OK I'm confused I defined it to look how I want but not how I want to wire it. I defined it 16 string 50 nodes each 1 strand per string but I want a few controller connections as possible like 3. So How should I really define it, sorry for all the questions
Haha. Yeah, it's a little frustrating at first, but you'll get the hang of it. So you can do one, two or four, but not three connections - you want them to divide evenly into the 800 nodes you have. You will have to inject power ~ every 100 nodes for 12V pixels and 50-80 for 5V pixels. I have a video on that too if you don't know how. Also, you may benefit from the Zoom meeting (see xLights.org). It's officially Wednesday night, but people are in the almost all the time and you get to talk live to experts for free (assuming there is someone in there when you dial in).
the newest up date of xlights does not have a place where you can reverse the chroma canes
It's there - just buried. Click on the model, look for model data on the left-hand side. Click to edit (hit the ellipses) to bring up the custom model data. Right-click on the right side where the numbers are and the flips are in that menu.
Thanks a bunch. I made a sequence before I decided to add some canes. Can I add them to the sequence or do I have to start all over
No, you can add them, but I believe you'll have to "edit display elements" to get them to show up in your sequencing window. Then just add the effects as needed.
What type of heat shrink do you use? Is it water tight?
Just cheap stuff I got from Amazon. I mainly use it to keep the wires separated from each other rather than trying to achieve a water-tight seal.
This is what I ordered, it is adhesive lined so it should be water-resistant. Comes in all kinds of colors and sizes and the price isn't too bad. buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/dual-wall/3-1-thin-wall-adhesive-lined-7-colors/3-1-adhesive-lined-heat-shrink-tubing
Thanks for the videos. Do you happen to know where 'Flip Horz' button went when the model data dialog is open? Maybe its only on the mac build, but I dont see the same option.
Thanks! Looking at .32, the answer is "it depends." If it's a built-in model, there is a reverse checkbox in the model attributes. And on the custom models... IT' S GONE! You may want to file a bug. :)
Lol thanks for looking that up. Yup its a boscoyo chromacane. Do they just use github issues for their bug tracking?
Yes. That’s the best place to report bugs.
AZGlirock wrote back: "It was moved to the right-click menu." I'll have to check this out later. Just as a FYI in the future.
Hmmm. Must be later than .32 then.
That's a lot of power supplies in the background. Hmmm. Wonder what you have in store for us.
Haha. Just upgrading power supplies this year. Adding a few pixels this year as well. :)
I really wish you were A Vixen guy! LOL
Haha. Come on over! LOL!
Do you think my lights addiction is becoming a problem when I'm the first viewer and commentor on your video? :)
Problem? What problem?
You're funny... "straight wires for easy replacement" you're OCD just like the rest of us. :P
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