How to Carry A Canoe By Yourself | I Like To Make Stuff
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
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To solve this stagnant canoe issue, I ran through many possible scenarios. One was to have some wheel flip from a stowed position inside the canoe and lock outside when moving. I thought this would work well, but would take up too much room on the inside. For this first iteration, I decided to make a collapsible V-shaped bracket with two wheels that would attach to the horizontal runners, or thwarts. I also measure the height of the thwarts to the peaks of the bow and stern (front and back).
I measured the distance between the thwarts and transferred that gap to the floor of the metal shop. Using my metal-cutting bandsaw, I cut the lengths of tubing that will make up the triangular shape of the canoe carrier. The math here is pretty important. The sides had to be wide enough to span the thwarts and tall enough for the canoe to move freely on uneven terrain.
Now that the metal tubing was all cut to size, I used the MIG welder to attach them together. I also used a cool magnetic welding clamp called a MagSwitch to help align the tubing while I welded them. The two frame were welded in a way that allows the hinge points to be flat when open and extended. That means, the clamps were set to a 50 degree angle and welded together. For added lateral strength, I added some gussets to the corners of each leg frame. With these pieces done, it was time to add the hinge/axle mechanism.
The two leg panels will be connected at the bottom with a special hinge, which allows the canoe carrier to fold together. To make this, I took a length of steel pipe and cut it into three sections. Section one and three would be welded to one leg panel, while section two was welded to the other. This way, I could slide a large pin through each of them, allowing the unit to hinge. In this case, I used a length of 5/8" threaded rod as the pin which could also act as the wheel axle.
To mount the simple 13" wheels, I threaded on some nuts until they almost touched the frame. I then added the simple wheels to each side and adjusted the nuts outward until the wheel spun freely. The nuts were tack welded in place and another set were added to the front of the wheel locking them in place. At this point, the frame could hinge easily and the wheels spun freely. It was time to add the canoe connections.
To connect the canoe carrier to the thwarts, I used some scrap 90-degree steel beams welded together. This made a U-shape cup that could fit down over the thwart bars. I welded these two cup pieces to the leg frames and drilled some through holes into the side walls. The through holes are made for some captive pins. Once fitted onto the canoe, these pins will go under the thwarts and lock the canoe carrier in place. After a coat of red enamel paint for protection, the canoe carrier was ready.
I fully understand that I can buy a similar device to move the canoe. If you don't know this about me, I like to solve the problems I face with what I have on-hand. I was faced with the issue of not being able to easily move this old canoe down to the water. I looked around my shop and discovered that I had almost everything I needed to make it happen. While I do admit, that it is a little big to stow while underway, I believe this design is really solid and a second version would solve all of those issues. I'm really happy with how effortless it was to 1. actually solve this problem once I got started and 2. move this huge metal canoe by myself. I hope this project inspired you to tackle a problem you face in your life, rather than putting it off.
cool project.
the middle thwart is a carrying yoke. the typical way to carry these is just to pick it up on your shoulders. Probably weighs less than 100lbs and it should be pretty doable from car to water.
To make carrying more comfortable, portage pads for your shoulders are pretty inexpensive too. That wouldn't make for a good video though ;p
That canoe probably weighs 65-70 Lbs.
Yep, I was thinking, “You’ve got the yoke right there, dude!” I used to do long wilderness canoe trips with some long (miles...) portages. The Al canoe was a fairly easy carry. The wooden/canvas canoes we used...those would get a bit heavy after a few weeks of water time.
Yeah he was like "You need two people" and I was like "Oh, I didn't realize you were a smol. Must be tough."
Getting it up on your neck is a tough trick to master (for me anyway), but I’ve seen it done by people without a lot of upper body strength. Once it’s up, you’re set.
Another great day to watch ILTMS!
Hope you enjoyed it!
Great build. one thing to consider when moving a canoe upright is that it is a perfect medium to hold your gear (paddles, pack, etc) with this method you would then need to carry them separately. Still a supper cool build.
Ohhhh no no no. A canoe isn't designed to structurally hold the gear when it is out of the water, you're not even suppose to load it up on shore let alone load it up and lift it. When a canoe is in the water it is supported along its whole length, when it is out of the water and carried like that it is supported only where you're holding it. Instead the canoe has a yoke built in that is there to sit on your shoulders so you can carry it upside down on your head.
Neighbours: What are you doing?
Bob: Oh, just taking my canoe for a walk
I really like how you guys are showing the rough models for Fusion 360 now. I know Josh usually shows his, but it's just nice to see the concept model prior to the finished product.
Hey bob, put the nut on before you cut, then after you cut, hit it with a file, take the nut off and that should clear any burs.
Could you skip the file and just force the nut off?
Scrolled down to make this exact comment. Gave you a like instead!
@@ikkuranus That is what I was going to say. Unless you've done a really bad job at cutting, or you've done it with, I don't know, a torch or something like that, you can just use the nut, no need to file except por looks.
That's what I was going to say
Seems like a lot of us thought the same thing
I like how you show a montage of u doing stuff related to the project during the sponsor, it doesn't make it boring and it doesn't want me to skip it
I love doing that type of project. The absolute best part of having DIY skills is solving very specific problems. Being able to build custom projects for yourself, your family, and your friends is incredibly rewarding.
Aluminum canoe? That is a gem. I enjoy your brainstorming.
love your channel Bob, always great content!
As for the threads getting messed up when you cut a threaded shaft - just cut it with the nut on, then when you remove the nut it will clean up the threads.
I like it. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
I love this video bob
I was waiting for this only
Thanks 👍👍👍
Awesome work Bob.
Nice project and nice welding skills.
Great ingenuity and a cool project!
Pretty fantastic work, Bob!!! 😃
Nicely done!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Always put the nut on first then cut it that way you can back the nut off and it will rethread it
Good point.
I was just about to say the same thing
I came here to make this point, saw that you already made it, and that makes me happy. ILTMS comment sections are full of people who know stuff. :)
Nice work! Next job is a full refurbish of the canoe
Love anything and everything abt outdoor projects
Love this!!! Please make more of these
This turned-out pretty nice.
Hi Bob great video , using a triangle file is great for thread clean up and if you put on a nylon lock nut passed the nylon, it makes threads in the nylon then you can remove the lock nut turn it round and put it back on nylon first, screw it on as far as you want and it will hold saving you from tack welding and making it movable , keep up the good work ,
G
Put the nut on before making the cut if you can. After the cut, thread the nut back off and it'll straighten out the marred threads.
Great build! Those old aluminum canoes are bomb proof, but very heavy! Awesome design also! I haven't seen one like that before!
Camper van build by you is all I'm waiting for.
I’ve been looking how to build an axle like this! Thank you so much for teaching me.
I’ve been working on a plan to build an electric beach cart to help lug gear out to the beach and not have to drag a cart through the sand.
Large tires with an E-bike motor to turn them so I don’t break my back. This design will work perfectly.
My father built one for my canoe when i was younger.
It was a square or rectangular frame the width of the flat underside of the canoe @ 1/3 of its length then on 2 sides of the square frame he hinged an A-frame that could be folded down and locked when in use. At the "top" of the A-frame he put a small wheel, like from a stroller. The whole thing was attached with straps around the canoe and took about a minute to set up. It could be folded almost completely flat and fit inside of the canoe. It was perfect for walking the canoe because since the canoe was upright you could store all your gear in it, if you were careful with the balance you could carry an insane amount of gear, perfect for even week long solo trips no assistance required.
The builds are good, but the "deleted scenes" at the end is THE BEST!
11:53 you did a great paint and welding job.
I am hanging tight ! nice journey from idea to final product.
Hey Bob, If you put a nut on the thread before you cut it and then thread the nut off, it will clean up the threads super nice. No filling required.
As a person who's been building and racing canoes for 40 years I'd like to weigh in on this project. To begin with (insert insanely knit picky five minute Baby Troll Voice rant here) thank you for your time and have a nice day.
You and Jimmy need to have a canoe race.
This is awesome! I love seeing the process of designing and experimenting to see whats going to work
Much easier, well done
this is my favorite asmr channel
Nice old canoe! We solved our heavy boat problem by getting a Wenonah ultra light. 35lbs. First time I picked it up I was amazed that something so large could be so light.
wow wow crazy your great thanks for the content.
I bought an old 15' trailer and upgraded the wiring, and built fenders from scratch. Never welded a day in my life, but I learned a lot on that build.
A lot of comments saying they prefer a cart that goes under an upright canoe so they can throw gear inside, which is a valid point. What I like about your idea is you can just leave the canoe on the cart at the end of the day and it's ready to go the next time you want to paddle. No need to remove the cart and flip the canoe or move it to a rack. So it's a combination of canoe transport and storage. I live a few hundred feet from the lake and have a canoe that weighs 85lbs empty. I can carry it to the beach, but somedays I just don't feel like it. So I'll be using your idea for some inspiration to build my own cart. May add some hooks to store paddles on too. I have a duffle bag for most of my other gear, so I can just throw that over my shoulder and off I go. Thanks.
Great idea. I had to carry one of these on a recent weekend break and would have loved something like this. I’d like to see you make a clip on wheel for the back end because I can see that smashing in to the ground as you are pulling it. 👍
Very cool project keep up the great videos. Great craftsmanship and hard work my friend keep making love seeing more welding videos. Any blacksmithing videos coming any time soon?
Cool project 👌👌
For the wheel spacer nut, instead of tac welding it, you could add another hex nut. This way the threaded rod is removable if service or maintenance is needed. Just a thought. Hope that helps. Great work either way! Keep it up Bob.
I came as fast as I could to say "in before someone says just carry it on your back". Sadly I was too late. Great solution to the problem of an annoyingly heavy canoe!
The Grant Alexander you carry it on your shoulders actually, that centre beam is called a yoke and that curve in it is for your neck...just saying lmao.
How about one for a kayak? :-D great build and awesome idea!
Cool!!!!
I don’t own a canoe, not sure if I ever will.. that’s not the point. I really enjoyed the problem->design->build a solution flow. Great video as always! Thanks for the inspiration.
THIS MAN WELDS IN SHORTS
you absolute madman
As someone who does a lot of mechanical and machining work, I just treat the threaded rod the same way you treated the tube to remove the burrs. Just spin it on the belt sander and it will create a small chamfer. Nut will go on very easily, no need to file the thread. Saves a lot of time and frustration. You can use a file to create a chamfer if you don’t have a grinder.
You need something to attach it to the canoe when stowed. First tip of the canoe and the project is going to the bottom of the lake.
Damn. That boat needs some serious love. And paint.
AMAZING!!!
You can also have a nut on the threaded rod when you cut it, then after cutting thread the nut off to “fix” the thread.
Usually you can just prop the boat on your shoulder by grapping it on the middle bar (that's what it's for).
You dont even need to be very strong, just put it on the tip and put your shoulder inside the boat and then lift it up.
It looks great and probably works really really well but, you don’t usually take an empty canoe down to the lake or the river. You usually put stuff in it like fishing rods tacklebox lifejackets cooler stuff like that. So the one that goes underneath the canoe I think it was a better deal. I use the one that goes underneath the canoe and it works out quite well I’ve had no problems in the last 20 to 25 years I have been canoeing.
Great idea 👍
You are awesome
Nicely done & great project Bob! Now you can use that Canoe to go catch some fish. Got a kick out of your Kiwi segment when you said "Tiny little kids"! So, what age group would that be? 😂😂😁😁👍👍
Always lovee ur content..🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks!
It's interesting to see a metal build. I don't work with metal much, but I sure would like to.
Another tip for cutting threaded rod is to put the nut on before you cut, and then when you remove the nut it helps to clear out chips.
Sweet! You might consider using a jamb nut instead of a tack weld on one side for those inside wheel stops, so you can take it apart more easily :)
a great trick for dealing with the threads getting damaged by cutting threaded rod is to have a nut on the threads already when you cut, and after the cut is complete, take the nut off through the cut area. It will clean up the threads as it comes off, although it might also damage the threads on that nut so it pays to have some extras around. The damaged threads will make the nut harder than normal to get off, so expect things to be a bit more difficult than usual.
Bob--way better tip for cutting rod or bolt with thread. Put a nut on the rod before cutting, when you're done cutting spin the nut off and it will chase the threads on the end of the rod and remove any burr.
Great vid as usual lol! You think you have an idea of when the next update to the R2-D2 will come out?
Can you build a custom guitar? I think you would make it really easy to understand and follow (obviously with different parts!)
@6:10 ...or put the nut(s) before and (if really needed) eventually force them out to reshape the thread
To prevent the issue with cutting threads I usually insert a nut before the cut and then after the cut I fix the thread by unthreading the nut. Easy
Northern Tier portage skills intensify
My father taught me: If you are going to cut anything with threads, then (if possible) put a nut on the threads BEFORE you cut. All you have to do after cutting is to spin the nut off the threads. That cleans up the ends(s) easily.
easy way to preserve thread before cutting. put a nut on, when done cutting, remove nut to clear threading.
when drilling through a c like shape i use some wood to make sure it wont bend
That is awesome. Really great idea.
But did you ground the- ok that joke's getting old now 😁
Bob you should throw some rock sliders on your 80 series.
you could add some sort of chain or cable to tether the pins to the frame of the carrier then you wouldn't have to worry about loosing them!
Like the idea, but you have to make at least two trips - one for the canoe and at least 1-2 more for all the fishing gear. You got me thinking though... going to design something similar that will allow the canoe to be upright while in transit.
I think you should consider making something to protect front and back points, because you will rub it on ground eventually. Maybe so plastic covers as bumpers etc.
You can still put it down in the cano. Slightly put one side under, then move it so that the other end comes under. Hopes this makes sense
One question and one suggestion
What keeps the threaded rod from shifting in the hinge sleeve between the nuts you welded on, of does that not matter?
Throw some lanyards on those detent pins so they don't get dropped and lost.
I like the commercially available carts. With the canoe upright, you can put gear in it to take it to the water. It also takea us 2 people to get the boat off the car, so being able to move a canoe alone is not that big of an advantage for us. Never the less, it is still fun to watch the process from idea to thing.
Great job, something to think about is tying a cord to the pins so that they are attached to the carrier and not easily lost. Also double nutting the inside nuts on the axle instead of the tack weld would allow you to remove it if needed. BUT all that being said I like it!
If you thread the nut on the rod then cut it when you remove the nut off the cut end, it reshapes the threading so you can get the nut back on like normal.
Can i know what are gasests and why do u need to oil the metal before drilling into it
Great build. I have one suggestion that will allow you to get it under the canoe support rails. Drill holes into the threaded axles and use a pin to go through to hold the wheels on instead of nuts/washers. Then you can remove the wheels and the whole thing should fit into the canoe properly. :-)
that'snice❗️❗️❗️
Is the "Josh Scream" going to be the new Wilhelm Scream?
Whats real funny about this is. Ok i get it most of the world dose not know about portaging. But your talking about a pivot point over the centre bar that has a shoulder harness built in to carry it on you shoulders from “ your car to the lake” love the show!
You can put on a nut on a threaded piece before cutting it. When you remove the nut, it automatically cuts a nice thread again:)
Would larger wheels (bike wheels) make it easier to port to a lake or pond more than a mile away?
Larger wheels would lift it up, making it more ergonomic, plus make it better in rough terrain. Break over angle also greatly improved, so you wouldn’t ding the back as often when starting or ending and incline. Bike wheels probably too thin though.
Nice. Me and a friend made a stitch and glue canoe a few years ago and we have talked about making some sort of system so we can tow it behind a bicycle. No real reason for just thought it would be cool. Probably why we haven't actually done it.
Mechanically assisted portage.
This was a really great project idea and design process! I just use portage pads and carry the canoe on my shoulders though lol
Here's another tip for cutting threaded rod. Put the nut on before and have it on the rod so once you cut it you can use the nut as a thread chaser.
Question about Fusion360, are you still able to work under the hobbyist licence if you use it to create projects which you then financially benefit from through video views? What about selling the plans?
Hey Bob, have you been able to get your Harbor Freight band saw to track straight and square? I have the same saw and I can't seem to get it to cut square to save my life...
Does the tires float? Because if you tip over and they don't you'll need to build another one , your wheels may need a life jacket too.
hello .
can you tel me where did you get the special pins from ?
would this work for 50 foot dugout war canoes like the ones my grandfather built
Most of the time, the reason they are underneath is to assist with portaging with a full load of gear in the canoe. Just the canoe by itself shouldn't be that much weight....We have 6 and 7th graders in the troop hauling the canoes on their shoulders down to the rivers and lakes all the time. Another thing is you have to put the canoe on it's keel to put this on, well many places don't have a nice grassy surface to do this, which can cause damage to the canoe. It's a good thing for someone alone for a day trip.