Everybody make sure you tie down your box with brackets, in an accident they can sometimes become projectiles "In the case of SUV's, Vans and Station Wagons" and could hurt you or passengers and in cases with your trunk you do not want your sub flying around in the trunk and getting damaged or damaging equipment, especially if you have to brake quickly or during take off!
Odd question, but do the wiring colors of the 9 conductor cable match with the Honda? Or did you find a wiring diagram/use the diagram from the head unit?
@@ProvoBeastAudio yeah but.... If it's a customer vehicle you would not do three self tapping screws into sheet metal. You're just lucky that things are grounded efficient enough. But if they want to add something.. You're fucked. Don't be a lazy ass. Measure where the best ground would be
RCAs carry the low level signal from the radio to the amplifier to amplify. Then the output of the amplifier (amplified signal) goes through the 9 wire out to the speakers.
just search speaker box carpet in amazon. I don't see the ones i purchased before, but there is a great choice selection online withpatterns and sizes.
if I just want to amp my speakers I would need an amp, the positive cable and negative cable plus the 9 conductor cable as well. For this do I need a regular amp or a crossover amp.
Regular amp vs. crossover amp? That doesn't make any sense. If you want to amplify your speakers, just pick up a 4 channel amplifier and amplifier wiring kit. Find an amp that can output between 40 and 60 watts rms per channel and you should be good to go. You may also need an additional set of RCA cables since most amp kits come with only a two channel RCA cable. Most amps already have a crossover functionality to filter the correct frequencies for each speaker.
Thanks so much i understand it now only thing is i have 2 seperate amps and i would like to know what guage wire to use for my sub that has 500watt rms at 4 ohms for the sub and the power to the amp
For power between the battery and your amp, i recommend 4 gauge for your bass amp. For your other amp that powers the interior speakers, 4 or 8 gauge wire is just fine. The size wire between your amp and your subwoofer, 12 to 16 gauge wire is great.
Use that speaker wire to connect your amp speaker output to the factory harness adapter. Doing it that way allows you to utilize the factory wiring without the need to run new individual wires to each speaker.
From the look of those battery terminals, a big 3/4 upgrade might be a good idea, or at least new connectors on the ends ... mine barely has enough reach as it is, and at this age, new cables are cheap enough and wouldn't hurt.
Where did you put the power cable? Like once it was hooked up to the battery how did you get it to the interior of the car? I have a 2002 Civic and i’m not sure how to punch through to the inside of the car from the engine bay
Thanks for the vid. Helped with finding the spot to get through the fire block. What did you make your rear deck out of? I need to make a new one. The stock one is kind of flimsy
If you run multiple amplifiers and have multiple runs of power wire from the battery to your amplifiers, each run between the amp and the battery will need fused.
Hey Clean installation! Well from the looks of it anyhow, given the fact that I myself, am New to the car audio world. Question, can I run a 5 channel amplifier 4 infinity speakers, and a 12" Alpine subwoofer with only 1 set of RCA preamp outputs on my Alpine head unit....? Thanks! Your answer will be very much Appreciated!
yeah u need to get a preamp eq. its an extra expense but worth it. it has left and right input, and gives you 5 outputs for 4 channels and sub. they are pretty cheap on amazon
Which cables? The cable that runs to the battery is your power cable to the positive on the amp. The black wire is your ground, this needs to be connected to the chassis free of any paint (metal to metal) and to the negative on the amp. We then used RCA cables to carry the signal from our radio RCA outputs to the RCA inputs on the amp. The blue 9 wire, or the wiire filled with lots of little wires, is our speaker cable that contains 9 wires. Since they are color coated, we connected one end to the speaker output on the amplifier and the other end connected, color by color, into the wiring harness of the civic which go to each speaker. Finally, the 9th wire connects (little blue wire) connects into the remote input on the amp and the other end connects into the radio's blue/ white wire.
Im trying to run 4 door speakers and an sub off of a 5 channel amp. Im trying to decide whether or not to swap out the stock head unit. If I don't swap it out, what would I need to make the connection to the amp?
thanks so much for the video i see you got a 1200 watt amp how would somebody know how much watts they need do they just add up all the rms watt of the speakers?
Well, its up to you. I would upgrade with the Big 3, then possibly the battery. See how your voltage does. If you are still pulling more amps, then at that time you would need a better alternator.
Just the power wire. The remote wire was included in the 9 conductor cable, so i didn't have to run that separably. However, in your install, running the power and remote on one side and the RCA and speaker wire on the other is highly recommended.
Power as in 12v or power as in sound / signal? Start removing the variables, check to make sure you have 12v constant to the amp, check your ground to ensure a clean connection, check the remote turn on wire to ensure it is turn on the amp when designated, check to ensure your RCA's are not damages, etc...
This is normal speaker wire, just all bundled together in one cable, versus 4 different speaker wires. You can use whatever speaker wire you see fit, the benefit of 9 conductor wire is that they are all bundled together and double shielded for a clean install and to promote good sound quality.
Factory is a 16-18 gauge size. Generally, Honda has used copper wire which helps in signal transfer for your speakers, and can support up to 50 or 75 watts. Anything higher would require new speakers. You can always overload wire and side effects would be a short in the speaker, problems at the amp, or even melted wire, but that requires a major overload.
I never even knew about the 9 conductor cable til I seen this video. I plan on powering all my speakers as well without running new wire and that looks like it'll save a ton of time. But man.. you make this look so easy, but I have a few questions of my own: 1. How long did/does it usually take to install? 2. What brand 9 conductor cable did you use? Or does it matter? I know I'ma need the 9 conductor cable, but if anything else I need before I make my attempt? My first time with car audio. I currently have: *Kenwood KDC-BT648U *CDT Audio CL 6EX.2 (Installed Front and Back) *Hifonics HFX12D4 (Not Installed) *Power Acoustik BAMF4500/5D (Not installed) *Belva BAK46 (Not installed) I'm thinking about purchasing some tweeters as well, since my stock ones have gone out. Btw, the car is a '94 Civic Coupe.
So I got around to installing the 9 conductor wire but I'm at a stand still. I connected it correctly, it was color coded so there was no way to messing up, but when I turn on my deck my door speakers pop for like 3-5 seconds and then my deck goes into protect mode. So I then proceeded to disconnect each one of my 4 speakers, and the problem is still there. Now I did test this out, I had the radio on and had plugged in each wire to my amp, one speaker at a time, and it seems to play fine. But.. when I turn it off and turn it back on, it goes straight to protect mode. So I don't know what I'm doing wrong?
So your amp is going into protection mode? Just realize the 9 conductor cable is just speaker wire all bundled together. Remember, when using the speaker wire, one end goes from the output of the amp and the other goes to the car radio wiring harness (you tape off your actual radio speaker wires) and use that car wiring harness as connection to all your speakers. Besides your speaker wire, check all other connections as well
First off I have a '94 Civic, I just used the same method you're using for that newer Civic. No, my amp is fine, it's my deck that goes into protect mode. I already had an aftermarket wire harness installed for my Kenwood deck, in fact it looks similar to the one used in the video, capped off and everything. Yes, I have it installed from the output of my amp to the deck, well wire harness. It's all matched up by colors as well. When I have everything hooked up (9 conductor wire from amp to deck) and turn on my deck, the deck immediately turns off and then I hear popping noise from my door speakers and then the words "Protect" pops up on my deck. I then decided to disconnect all my door speakers (front and rear), with the 9 conductor wire connected from amp to deck and it still does it. So I then decided to connect all my door speakers and disconnect the 9 conductor wiring from the amp and the problem goes away. But when I try and have the deck on and playing music and connect 1 speaker up using the 9 conductor wire from the amp, it plays fine, doesn't turn off or anything. I can tune it the speaker as well from the amp. Now when I keep that 1 speaker connected, turn off my deck, then turn it back on, it goes straight to protect mode again. That's what I'm not understanding.
Well, all that should be connected to your kenwood deck is the RCA cables which go to your amp, power (Yellow), ground (Black), Ignition (Red), Blue/White (Remote turn on wire which goes to your amp remote input). Those are the bare basics. Check those connections.
i'm new to subs, so if i have factory speakers and want to add dual 12 inch subs JUST to enhance the bass and leave my factory speakers, how do i do that? like if i add a subwoofer will it affect my oem speakers at all
If you are planning just to enhance the lower end of your sound quality, i would either install a single 10" or 12" sub @ around 300w rms. You can add to that depending if you want more power / bass. Don't do 2 channels for 2 subs like that guy said, do a single channel, regardless of having 1 or 2 subs. You will just need to wire them correctly depending on the sub you choose. Once installed, you can tune the output to a desired level to not affect the sound quality of the interior speakers.
Just like what Pravo said, your best to go with a single 10 or 12 so it won't over power the vocal sprakers. If you are wanting to go with dual subs, I would highly recommend getting a 5 channel amplifier and decent door speakers. When I installed my stereo in my Hyundai, I noticed my single JL audio basswedge was over staging my factory speakers even with the sub amp not turned up much.
From the amp speaker output, you use your speaker wire from there and run it to behind the radio. From behind the radio, you connect this speaker wire into the aftermarket harness adapter which connects to the car's factory harness which runs to each speaker. This eliminates the need to run new wiring to each new speaker individually. Since we are not using the radio's speaker outputs (white, white/black, grey, grey/black, green, green/black, and purple, purple/black), just tape those off, don't connect them to anything. from your wiring harness adapter, those same color wires is where you connect your amps output to.
i have a 5 channel amp with MAX Power 1600W • RMS Power: 50W x 4 + 300W (4Ω) 75W x 4 + 500W (2Ω) 150W x 2 (Bridged) + 300W (4Ω and 1 OZ Audio Vector Series 12", Dual 4 ohm 2" Coil 300W Subwoofer, what is the proper wiring for this? i've tried connecting the + and - wire to my sub then to the amp bridge connection but it smells kinda burnt.. i think i just fucked up my sub lol or is it normal for new subs?
Whats the 5th channel power output on the amp? You said it was a 5 channel, but you show the ratings for the 4 interior channels? Generally, if you have a dual 4 ohm, you need to wire it in parallel to have a final impedance of 2 ohms on the sub. If your amp is putting out a lot more power at 2 ohms on the sub channel, if your amp isn't tuned correctly, you will fry your sub. If you smell the coils, generally speaking you have burnt the coils. But some subs produce a smell when breaking them in, but not usually. Check the power output on the sub channel (if indeed it is a 5 channel amp) and make sure you wired your sub correctly.
Provo Beast Audio Installation so i did look more up about my amp and this is what i found.. 50 watts RMS x 4 + 300 watts x 1 at 4 ohms 75 watts RMS x 4 + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms 150 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
Provo Beast Audio Installation i did the parallel and connected the wires to the amp sub + and - terminal it worked but i only get bass from my sub i prefer the song coming the sub as well but i guess bridged mode in parallel wiring doesnt work, i tried parallel in bridged mode my amp shut down lol
You don't to hear any other frequencies from your sub but about 80hz and below.... So yes, you do only want to hear bass from your sub, not everything else.
Absolutely. The purpose of the fuse is to prevent a short circuit and essentially a fire. The closer you are to the battery, the more wire to your amp that is protected by a fuse. If you decided to install the fuse in the rear by the amp, between the fuse and the battery would be unprotected and very susceptible to a major short / fire is that wire grounded out.
Just ensure the correct RCA on the output of the radio is connected on the other end to the correct input on the amp: Sub to Sub, Front to Front, Rear to Rear. Just pay close attention to that inputs you plug your RCA's into and ensure the other end goes to the same channels. Does that make sense?
EQ / Crossovers are old school and outdated. Most aftermarket radio's today have a better built in EQ than most stand alone EQ units. IF you are looking for better sound quality, a DSP is the route you will want to take.
Depends on what type of performance your looking for everything serves a purpose....head unit crossover may not be enough if you have 4 8s- 2 10s and nightshade 15 inch... But I get your point...🤙🤙
You should always attach the ground cable before the positive on the battery. Doing this will allow all electricity to ground out right away and not hold charge. That's what causes the shock when you connect the negative after the positive. Easy was to short out your modules.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Parts used linked in the description of the video!
Thank you so much! I was trying to figure out how to connect the amp to the stereo. Finally a video that actually shows it.
Subscribe!
Provo Beast Audio Installation Just did thanks man
Actually amazing, I’m new to speakers and this is gonna save my life
Everybody make sure you tie down your box with brackets, in an accident they can sometimes become projectiles "In the case of SUV's, Vans and Station Wagons" and could hurt you or passengers and in cases with your trunk you do not want your sub flying around in the trunk and getting damaged or damaging equipment, especially if you have to brake quickly or during take off!
Good install only issue i see is the ground wire with self tapping screws
I’m sure there’s a ground kit out there that can mount to the frame
thanks for the video! had subs in my old car kept them and i decided to wire myself this time. Super helpful 3 years later
Got my audio system installed yesterday by AI TINT and I love how deep the bass sounds. 2 10’s DDAUDIO
Odd question, but do the wiring colors of the 9 conductor cable match with the Honda? Or did you find a wiring diagram/use the diagram from the head unit?
During the entire video, all I could think about was the filth in that car. 😰
Customer vehicle, it something we have to get use to...
@@ProvoBeastAudio yeah but.... If it's a customer vehicle you would not do three self tapping screws into sheet metal.
You're just lucky that things are grounded efficient enough. But if they want to add something.. You're fucked.
Don't be a lazy ass. Measure where the best ground would be
Obviously you never seen a project car or daily driver.
Is the wire harness even needed for a sub install if you don’t need to do the door speakers?
i need to intall an amplifier/subwoofer on a honda civic 06
help!!
Have you figured it out yet
I don’t understand what the rca cables are for if I’m going to use the 9 wire speaker cable. Could explain that please? Great video and thank you.
RCAs carry the low level signal from the radio to the amplifier to amplify. Then the output of the amplifier (amplified signal) goes through the 9 wire out to the speakers.
@@ProvoBeastAudio thank you. I Understand now.
Might be a good idea to run your remote wire before putting the head unit bacc in jus sayn
By far the best sub/amp install video ive seen. thank you SO much!
Your the man for that coat hanger trick 🤘
Whats the length of the power cable?
How did you construct the custom board in the trunk? Looking to do the same....
Used MDF and cut to the size desired. Our carpet was extremely thin, ordered online, and attached using glue and staples.
Provo Beast Audio Installation
Can you send me a link to find the carpet material? The job you did looks clean!
just search speaker box carpet in amazon. I don't see the ones i purchased before, but there is a great choice selection online withpatterns and sizes.
if I just want to amp my speakers I would need an amp, the positive cable and negative cable plus the 9 conductor cable as well. For this do I need a regular amp or a crossover amp.
Regular amp vs. crossover amp? That doesn't make any sense. If you want to amplify your speakers, just pick up a 4 channel amplifier and amplifier wiring kit. Find an amp that can output between 40 and 60 watts rms per channel and you should be good to go. You may also need an additional set of RCA cables since most amp kits come with only a two channel RCA cable. Most amps already have a crossover functionality to filter the correct frequencies for each speaker.
Thanks so much i understand it now only thing is i have 2 seperate amps and i would like to know what guage wire to use for my sub that has 500watt rms at 4 ohms for the sub and the power to the amp
For power between the battery and your amp, i recommend 4 gauge for your bass amp. For your other amp that powers the interior speakers, 4 or 8 gauge wire is just fine. The size wire between your amp and your subwoofer, 12 to 16 gauge wire is great.
thanks so much preciate it
This tutorial was extemely helpful thank u
Thanks man This tutorial was very helpful but I'm still confused about the speaker wire... Do you connect it to the factory one?
Use that speaker wire to connect your amp speaker output to the factory harness adapter. Doing it that way allows you to utilize the factory wiring without the need to run new individual wires to each speaker.
So yes, you connect it to the factory harness adapter.
From the look of those battery terminals, a big 3/4 upgrade might be a good idea, or at least new connectors on the ends ... mine barely has enough reach as it is, and at this age, new cables are cheap enough and wouldn't hurt.
Where did you put the power cable? Like once it was hooked up to the battery how did you get it to the interior of the car? I have a 2002 Civic and i’m not sure how to punch through to the inside of the car from the engine bay
Its in the video @0:49
Thanks for the vid. Helped with finding the spot to get through the fire block. What did you make your rear deck out of? I need to make a new one. The stock one is kind of flimsy
MDF and some "car audio" stretchy carpet.
@@ProvoBeastAudio thanks for the response!
Last question if we put the fuse do we need another one the car box and where
If you run multiple amplifiers and have multiple runs of power wire from the battery to your amplifiers, each run between the amp and the battery will need fused.
thanks
Hey Clean installation! Well from the looks of it anyhow, given the fact that I myself, am New to the car audio world. Question, can I run a 5 channel amplifier 4 infinity speakers, and a 12" Alpine subwoofer with only 1 set of RCA preamp outputs on my Alpine head unit....? Thanks! Your answer will be very much Appreciated!
yeah u need to get a preamp eq. its an extra expense but worth it. it has left and right input, and gives you 5 outputs for 4 channels and sub. they are pretty cheap on amazon
Can you be more specific about the cables? like which one is which and how can we recognize them?
Which cables? The cable that runs to the battery is your power cable to the positive on the amp. The black wire is your ground, this needs to be connected to the chassis free of any paint (metal to metal) and to the negative on the amp. We then used RCA cables to carry the signal from our radio RCA outputs to the RCA inputs on the amp. The blue 9 wire, or the wiire filled with lots of little wires, is our speaker cable that contains 9 wires. Since they are color coated, we connected one end to the speaker output on the amplifier and the other end connected, color by color, into the wiring harness of the civic which go to each speaker. Finally, the 9th wire connects (little blue wire) connects into the remote input on the amp and the other end connects into the radio's blue/ white wire.
Im trying to run 4 door speakers and an sub off of a 5 channel amp. Im trying to decide whether or not to swap out the stock head unit. If I don't swap it out, what would I need to make the connection to the amp?
Always recommended to do this. Some head units can do it stock, but most it's more of hassle not to.
How would I install a Clarion Eq with this setup?
thanks so much for the video i see you got a 1200 watt amp how would somebody know how much watts they need do they just add up all the rms watt of the speakers?
Yep, match the rms requirements of the speakers to the rms output of the amplifier per channel.
last question if i buy this same one and do all the same will i need a bigger alternator i have a 70 amp and i will also add the the big 3 upgrade?
Well, its up to you. I would upgrade with the Big 3, then possibly the battery. See how your voltage does. If you are still pulling more amps, then at that time you would need a better alternator.
What wire did you connect the sub to the amp
12 gauge speaker wire.
Jesus christ he needs an engine detail. ASAP!!!!!
Did you install power wire and remote wire on one side and rca and speaker wires on other side?
Just the power wire. The remote wire was included in the 9 conductor cable, so i didn't have to run that separably. However, in your install, running the power and remote on one side and the RCA and speaker wire on the other is highly recommended.
Didn’t made no group loop noise ?
Nope.
I have a good amp and speaker that works but I can’t get power to it what can I do to make it work
Power as in 12v or power as in sound / signal? Start removing the variables, check to make sure you have 12v constant to the amp, check your ground to ensure a clean connection, check the remote turn on wire to ensure it is turn on the amp when designated, check to ensure your RCA's are not damages, etc...
so i would have to buy this 9 conductor cable because of the 5 channel amp instead of normal speaker wires
This is normal speaker wire, just all bundled together in one cable, versus 4 different speaker wires. You can use whatever speaker wire you see fit, the benefit of 9 conductor wire is that they are all bundled together and double shielded for a clean install and to promote good sound quality.
thanks your videos are super helpful !! :)
Thanks man!
Can I use the 9 conducter wire for my 4 channel amp?
You sure can! Perfect for a 4 channel amp.
What is the gauge of the factory speaker wire? Is it possible to overload this using it with an amp installation?
Factory is a 16-18 gauge size. Generally, Honda has used copper wire which helps in signal transfer for your speakers, and can support up to 50 or 75 watts. Anything higher would require new speakers. You can always overload wire and side effects would be a short in the speaker, problems at the amp, or even melted wire, but that requires a major overload.
Provo Beast Audio Installation Thank you!
HI,thanks cool video,I have a question is a capacitor required to run this system?because of the woofer.
Well, generally i would recommend doing a "Big 3" upgrade first as most capacitors are trash. Generally, you get what you pay for with capacitors.
Trunk spotless, rest of car dirty as hell.
I have a honda civic hybrid the battery is behind the backseats how will i get it through there?
You may have to fully remove the back seat to find access.
I never even knew about the 9 conductor cable til I seen this video. I plan on powering all my speakers as well without running new wire and that looks like it'll save a ton of time. But man.. you make this look so easy, but I have a few questions of my own:
1. How long did/does it usually take to install?
2. What brand 9 conductor cable did you use? Or does it matter?
I know I'ma need the 9 conductor cable, but if anything else I need before I make my attempt? My first time with car audio.
I currently have:
*Kenwood KDC-BT648U
*CDT Audio CL 6EX.2 (Installed Front and Back)
*Hifonics HFX12D4 (Not Installed)
*Power Acoustik BAMF4500/5D (Not installed)
*Belva BAK46 (Not installed)
I'm thinking about purchasing some tweeters as well, since my stock ones have gone out.
Btw, the car is a '94 Civic Coupe.
20ft of 9-conductor is plenty. The install took about 4 hours. Just check the description for the list of parts used in this install.
So I got around to installing the 9 conductor wire but I'm at a stand still. I connected it correctly, it was color coded so there was no way to messing up, but when I turn on my deck my door speakers pop for like 3-5 seconds and then my deck goes into protect mode. So I then proceeded to disconnect each one of my 4 speakers, and the problem is still there.
Now I did test this out, I had the radio on and had plugged in each wire to my amp, one speaker at a time, and it seems to play fine. But.. when I turn it off and turn it back on, it goes straight to protect mode. So I don't know what I'm doing wrong?
So your amp is going into protection mode? Just realize the 9 conductor cable is just speaker wire all bundled together. Remember, when using the speaker wire, one end goes from the output of the amp and the other goes to the car radio wiring harness (you tape off your actual radio speaker wires) and use that car wiring harness as connection to all your speakers. Besides your speaker wire, check all other connections as well
First off I have a '94 Civic, I just used the same method you're using for that newer Civic.
No, my amp is fine, it's my deck that goes into protect mode. I already had an aftermarket wire harness installed for my Kenwood deck, in fact it looks similar to the one used in the video, capped off and everything.
Yes, I have it installed from the output of my amp to the deck, well wire harness. It's all matched up by colors as well. When I have everything hooked up (9 conductor wire from amp to deck) and turn on my deck, the deck immediately turns off and then I hear popping noise from my door speakers and then the words "Protect" pops up on my deck.
I then decided to disconnect all my door speakers (front and rear), with the 9 conductor wire connected from amp to deck and it still does it. So I then decided to connect all my door speakers and disconnect the 9 conductor wiring from the amp and the problem goes away.
But when I try and have the deck on and playing music and connect 1 speaker up using the 9 conductor wire from the amp, it plays fine, doesn't turn off or anything. I can tune it the speaker as well from the amp. Now when I keep that 1 speaker connected, turn off my deck, then turn it back on, it goes straight to protect mode again. That's what I'm not understanding.
Well, all that should be connected to your kenwood deck is the RCA cables which go to your amp, power (Yellow), ground (Black), Ignition (Red), Blue/White (Remote turn on wire which goes to your amp remote input). Those are the bare basics. Check those connections.
What can I do to improve sound quality in my system....2008 scion xd. kenwood dxx395 head unit polk db speakers. cerwin vega 10. nvx 5 channel.
Setting gains, adjusting crossovers and your EQ. But if that isn't enough, you can look into getting a DSP.
@@ProvoBeastAudio yea im just looking for more..idk if dsp will do it ive thought of changing speakers amp..etc..but idk maybe i need a dsp.
Can you show a link where you got your box?
You didn't show us however install the fuse
i like the mix up. i do a kicker sub and an alpine amp pioneer head unit. Frankenstein builds
like the entire video except the part of the ground cable.!! 😱😱
Edrick Mendez that's how it's supposed to be done. done it that exact way many times.
Not the best way to teach grounding, ugly and self tappers always get loose
That power cable ugly af
Are you guys in Utah?
Whats the cable called for the speaker hook up that hook up stirght to the stereo and amp?
9 conductor speaker wire
hey, where was that ground that you used?
have you had any problems with that amp or other Kenwood amps? What about Pioneer amps?
Generally both are great brands, between those two brands, we have enjoyed Pioneer a bit more than Kenwood, but no problems or issues
My amp shorted my battery:( why is that?
Hey i have a question does it sound loud enough for just 1 sub at 500 watts
Sure does. However, this system wasn't necessarily built for being extremely loud, its more built for sound quality.
thanks
First step should always be disconnecting the battery.. but good vid. Wiring the same car. Thanks
i'm new to subs, so if i have factory speakers and want to add dual 12 inch subs JUST to enhance the bass and leave my factory speakers, how do i do that? like if i add a subwoofer will it affect my oem speakers at all
dustin9000 what's the remote wire? and how do i connect the 4 stock speakers to sync with the sub so i don't have to take any door panels off
If you are planning just to enhance the lower end of your sound quality, i would either install a single 10" or 12" sub @ around 300w rms. You can add to that depending if you want more power / bass. Don't do 2 channels for 2 subs like that guy said, do a single channel, regardless of having 1 or 2 subs. You will just need to wire them correctly depending on the sub you choose. Once installed, you can tune the output to a desired level to not affect the sound quality of the interior speakers.
If you follow the techniques of this install, it should steer you in the right direction: ruclips.net/video/j6p0EEL_Bpo/видео.html
Just like what Pravo said, your best to go with a single 10 or 12 so it won't over power the vocal sprakers. If you are wanting to go with dual subs, I would highly recommend getting a 5 channel amplifier and decent door speakers. When I installed my stereo in my Hyundai, I noticed my single JL audio basswedge was over staging my factory speakers even with the sub amp not turned up much.
Hey could you go into further explanation on how you wired the speakers to the amp through the back of the radio
From the amp speaker output, you use your speaker wire from there and run it to behind the radio. From behind the radio, you connect this speaker wire into the aftermarket harness adapter which connects to the car's factory harness which runs to each speaker. This eliminates the need to run new wiring to each new speaker individually. Since we are not using the radio's speaker outputs (white, white/black, grey, grey/black, green, green/black, and purple, purple/black), just tape those off, don't connect them to anything. from your wiring harness adapter, those same color wires is where you connect your amps output to.
Provo Beast Audio Installation can you post a link or just a name of the wiring kit or where you got this all
Everything used in this video is listed in the description. Just search amazon.
very helpful for a n00b like me thank you
What song did u use at the end
clean install
i have a 5 channel amp with MAX Power 1600W
• RMS Power:
50W x 4 + 300W (4Ω)
75W x 4 + 500W (2Ω)
150W x 2 (Bridged) + 300W (4Ω
and 1 OZ Audio Vector Series 12", Dual 4 ohm 2" Coil 300W Subwoofer, what is the proper wiring for this? i've tried connecting the + and - wire to my sub then to the amp bridge connection but it smells kinda burnt.. i think i just fucked up my sub lol or is it normal for new subs?
Whats the 5th channel power output on the amp? You said it was a 5 channel, but you show the ratings for the 4 interior channels? Generally, if you have a dual 4 ohm, you need to wire it in parallel to have a final impedance of 2 ohms on the sub. If your amp is putting out a lot more power at 2 ohms on the sub channel, if your amp isn't tuned correctly, you will fry your sub. If you smell the coils, generally speaking you have burnt the coils. But some subs produce a smell when breaking them in, but not usually. Check the power output on the sub channel (if indeed it is a 5 channel amp) and make sure you wired your sub correctly.
Provo Beast Audio Installation so i did look more up about my amp and this is what i found..
50 watts RMS x 4 + 300 watts x 1 at 4 ohms
75 watts RMS x 4 + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
150 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
So you are putting 500w RMS @ 2 ohms to a sub that handles 300w RMS so it's best to turn your gain down. Make sure your sub in wired in parallel.
Provo Beast Audio Installation i did the parallel and connected the wires to the amp sub + and - terminal it worked but i only get bass from my sub i prefer the song coming the sub as well but i guess bridged mode in parallel wiring doesnt work, i tried parallel in bridged mode my amp shut down lol
You don't to hear any other frequencies from your sub but about 80hz and below.... So yes, you do only want to hear bass from your sub, not everything else.
Clear n instructional ty
What state do you live in and is that ting legal whered yo7 get ut
Utah
Great video thank you
yes it does. Thanks!
is the power wire fuse near the battery really necessary?
Absolutely. The purpose of the fuse is to prevent a short circuit and essentially a fire. The closer you are to the battery, the more wire to your amp that is protected by a fuse. If you decided to install the fuse in the rear by the amp, between the fuse and the battery would be unprotected and very susceptible to a major short / fire is that wire grounded out.
Thank you loads for the reply. very much appreciated
I have a question about the rca plug ins. how do you know which ones go where?
Just ensure the correct RCA on the output of the radio is connected on the other end to the correct input on the amp: Sub to Sub, Front to Front, Rear to Rear. Just pay close attention to that inputs you plug your RCA's into and ensure the other end goes to the same channels. Does that make sense?
yup best sound system install video. thanks alot.!!!!!
Putting a dual 12 in my civic
effectively!
Definitely a budget build... No EQ or Crossover... hmmmm... to each his own...its a civic after all...
EQ / Crossovers are old school and outdated. Most aftermarket radio's today have a better built in EQ than most stand alone EQ units. IF you are looking for better sound quality, a DSP is the route you will want to take.
Depends on what type of performance your looking for everything serves a purpose....head unit crossover may not be enough if you have 4 8s- 2 10s and nightshade 15 inch... But I get your point...🤙🤙
Cool i live in utah too
That power cable ugly af, would be embarrassed to pop the hood. The ground connection is just a joke. Speaker wiring solid though.
Thats confusing, i accidentally turned my speakers into a car
what was the name of that song lol
Don't know, it was the customer's music
Robert Alger its kill bill twisted nerve instrumental remix
You should always attach the ground cable before the positive on the battery. Doing this will allow all electricity to ground out right away and not hold charge. That's what causes the shock when you connect the negative after the positive. Easy was to short out your modules.
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