Your repairs on the speaker are very much in keeping with the spirit of early amateur radio hobbyists. You worked with what you had and didn't discard anything. The internet and the ubiquitous brown delivery truck have spoiled us in the twenty-first century. Can't wait to see you tackle the transmitter - FB on the receiver! 73 -
Dang if your editing after two videos is this good I can only wonder as to what superhuman level of editing you’ll ascend to by your next video. Was nice to see the CRB in some shots.
This was fun. This kind of tech was practically art ( e.g. 12:09 ) and it's gratifying to see there is enough appreciation out there leveraging modern tech to bring it back to life. Great example of why maker culture is so cool, and Wartie ;) did a fantastic job here.
I really appreciate you taking the time to make the battery and make it look like the real one! You did an amazing job and would love to see more things like that.
Thanks for the support everyone! Since there are so many more experienced people out there who are willing to take the time to teach others, I expect to have corrections to add to most of my videos. I will place these in the description under the "corrections" heading. Please take note of the items listed, especially if you are trying to use my videos for reference in your own build/restoration. When an issue impacts the safety or longevity of the piece, I'll try to include the fix in a future video.
Excellent work and VG video. I have a 654 as well and am about to attack its restoration. Mine works but those Micamolds are are a bear. Luckily, the 654 doesn't have alot. Try a BC-342. They have about 30. I have an alternative to restuffing them. I buy caps from Justradios.com and cast them in hobby resin. JR's are quality and small. Colored black, they come out looking like the real thing. You then just paint in the code dots. Micamolds were also coated in wax about half the time, so you can hide imperfections with wax. I can post some pics on G503. I am Greywulf there. I love your battery. I have been planning on building my own, but you beat me to the punch. I have collected several batteries as examples and most of my military ones have the ink on carboard and then waxed (BA-48, BA-53, BA-2, BA-28, etc). From the bat packs you built, you could easily do a BA-48 for the BC-1306. Again, excellent work.
I just found your channel when looking up information on the GN-58 B that I have inherited. I love the way you present your information :-) Subscribed to your channel!
I also approve of the speaker repair! Very Ham Radio approved. The battery box I would have built would have used 18650 lipo batteries and parallel sized D cells, and I would have built a more permanent AC supply for stationary use. This is just my take on making the radio “user friendly“, not what you should have done (your take was fine!). Lucky to have found a matching speaker, too. I have a BC-348 Q in my shack, un modded with the dynamo, and it may be a bit noisy, but it does fine on the 24volt battery I got used from the local airfield. So it doesn't receive the high HF frequencies, but it works with my 40 and 80 meters QRP CW transmitters. Lots of fun! Good Luck and 73 de W4FJF.
I am impressed by your attention to detail and dedication to historical accuracy. The most telling statement is your goal of giving the operator the feel of working on this equipment in its original form. Looking forward to the next video. Charlie KM4ZZ
For the battery and different voltages I probably would have gone with few 18650 cells and then used boost converters for the different voltages required by the radio.
The printing on the battery is on the cardboard, which is waxed over. I re-created a Ray-O-Vac BC-611 battery using the closest color thick cardboard, printed it with a laser printer before cutting. I spent as much time creating the Ray-O-Vac logo as you did. I have an original battery to copy and was able to come up with a very close font. I am very impressed with your attention to detail, especially repacking the Micamolds. I look forward to more videos.
Great to know there are others who care about this stuff, and thank you for your feedback! I debated whether it was under the wax or over; I had it in my head the white spot in the reference at 4:30 was a globule of wax. Based on your response I imagine this must be adhesive or leakage, and not a clump of wax. I'll certainly be accounting for that in rev 2.
This is a very underrated video. amazing job. I have been thinking for a while if we can recreative the same ww2 radio with modern technology and observe the size and quality difference. Could you work on something like this?
Battery Case - Connector End. All dry battery connectors are sealed against moisture at manufacture with a sealing strip before the whole thing is wax coated. The missing markings are from when the battery is put in service. To do this the tape has to be torn off the battery end to free the connector in order to connect it. Great work and excellent video many thanks. Greetings from Vienna in Austria. Chris H.
Nicely done! I like your work re-stuffing the Micamold paper caps. I would recommend re-stuffing the electrolytic capacitors since they are probably out-of-tolerance as well. One could go a step further and test all of the resistors, but a set of this vintage will work fine with component values that have drifted. Also, it seems that there is a terminal board missing from the back of the speaker. Some solder terminals mounted to one of the magnet screws would work well to provide a more secure place to connect the wires going out of the case. Thanks for the video, and for preserving this great old set!
This is a super cool (and way over my head) video. I have two WWII BC-1000/SCR-300 backpack radios and two BC-659 jeep mounted radios (two WWII jeeps as well). I haven't had much time to dig into them, however, one of the BC-1000s powers up. This is inspiring. Great job!...and the battery reproduction is awesome.
Makes me even more hopeful for restoring a practically dead PRC-77. But mine needs a new Frequency dial Window which I may need to custom make. Other than that she’s almost done, after months of work, she just needs the wires permanently soldered and spliced back together after a little more shortening of a few wires, and two wires needing replacing she should just need to be plugged in and pray the Modules don’t need replacing.
12:59 that is indeed true...thats the way capacitance meters work and i am tired of hearing in other videos people saying that the capacitor is fine it just went up in value...capacitors dont go up in value, they develop leakage and the meter thinks it is seeing a larger capacitor bevause it takes longer to charge...capacitor time constant is also used in advantage of the engineers to design oscillator circuits in radios, tvs and old equipment in general were the frequency is determined by the rate of charge of a capacitor, sometimes a capacitor and inductor etc
You do nice work. I will have to pull my box of mica caps out, always wondered about the ones with high capacity being mica. I know I seen the brand Micamold on some, will have to check them for leakage. They probably all came from military equipment.
Thank you sir! Micamold-branded stuff is definitely present in civilian radios too. Evidently they did make true mica caps in the smaller sizes that one might expect. However a lot of restoration people are just gonna replace almost anything that says Micamold on it; they are known to be pretty bad.
@@WartimeWorkshop Micamold made a lot of true mica capacitors in that format. I recently bought a couple hundred NOS "postage stamp" (some call them "domino") caps & verified all were mica construction in values up to about 0.02 uF. And all passed leakage & value tests with flying colors.
When you get to the point of working on the vibrator supply, use a set of dummy load resistors to adjust the circuit instead of risking the tubes in the set. Proper current values can be figured out using tube specs and/or measurements taken from the battery pack while the receiver is operating. No need to stress your nerves or the set :-) Nice profile in QST! 73 de K4TO, Dave
I had one of these beat me. I got the Rx and TX to work separately powered with my hombrew power supply. But together - Boom. Smoked PSU. I passed the unit on.
I am really enjoying the series. You got another sub here! Also, fun to see the EEVBlog BM235 multimeter! I wonder if David has seen your website yet? Also, if there is another fellow Aussie restoring vintage radios that may be of interest to some, David Tipton. At this point you may think all Aussies' are called Dave, but we have a few Steve's, Dazza's and Bruce's. ;)
What a labor of love. Fascinated with your font reproduction work! Are these available public domain (as .ttf files)? I have a number of "boat anchors" that I will never be able to restore and must part with. CV-920A (x2), an AM-2477B/URR, a R390A, and numerous mil-surplus RF test gear. Perhaps you or someone out there may have an interest?
Awesome ,, I just subscribed. I love old radios of any kind . Especially old and modern military radios . I’m about to take my general class soon as I can get an exam site figured out . 73’s to you , I’ll be checking out your channel
Great Video, I could not spend the time though putting old casing back on caps, maybe an can cap that was showing on top, Can't hide new resistors, or new wire. On the lighter side I've seen on old 20's radios JFET'S put under tubes and yellow led's to simulate filaments. After that I took an old SW took the tubes out and put JFET's used the Filament supply to make a regulated supply, used a amp board for audio. Worked like before but cooler running, and could run off 12 volts then to.
I loved watching you create the battery box! I probably would have done things a bit differently, but that is part of the nature of mankind, we are all different in some way or another. I would like to build a battery source for my Garod V Neutrodyne TRF receiver. It is a 1927 or so era radio and I hope to have a working one when I can get all the needed parts and bits. You can see what it looks like here: radioatticarchives.com/radio.htm?radio=5765 I have no problem with throwing batteries into a box somewhat like the one you made, where my difficulty is, is in the charging circuit. I need something that I could leave the batteries connected and they would fully charge, then switch to trickle charge when needed. The voltages that I think I need are 4.5 volts, 6 volts, 22.5 to 45 Volts, and 90 Volts. I have never seen one of those "Mica-Mold" capacitors split in half like that. Thanks for sharing it with us. The interesting thing is that you could place any type of capacitor inside, even an actual Mica if it would fit, and use it. You gave me a lot of ideas with this video...again, thanks! There are a couple of videos that I think you would enjoy watching. Let me know what you think. They are: ruclips.net/video/BnR_DLd1PDI/видео.html ruclips.net/video/67M7fsbLUIU/видео.html You can see a listing of all the videos made by Paul at this URL: ruclips.net/user/MrCarlsonsLabvideos I hope to see more videos on here from you. You make excellent videos! I love the quality of them especially. Everything is top-notch...audio, video, concept, format, procedure, etc. 73, WB4RHA
I was thinking about making a version with a whole BMS but for now I’m just unhooking them when not in use. Will definitely need to add some protections in if I have to run it all day for an event or something.
I have not tried that; I was thinking about using encaustic paint, which would be similar. However it seems that I was wrong about the ink being on top; the "blob" in the image is something underneath both the wax and the printed label. I'll be correcting this on the next one I make.
I would absolutely love to, if I could track one down. There is a single Iconoscope tube for sale on ebay right now, but I would want to start from something a bit more complete.
Thanks for sharing this. In 1968 I found the manual of this radio in the store of a radio shop. These units were not available in my country at all. Therefore I am still wondering how this secured document could be available. At that time I built tube radios and repaired all kinds of radios and tv's. Henrik OH2BLO
I recently bought at a flea market a WWII G-3 hand crank generator that went with the TRC-7 radio. Working on restoring it. The generator works just great. It just needed a little TLC - bending back into shape the brace which attached the seat to the tripod and some touch up paint. It was also missing one of the handles, so I'm making new handles. Also had no cable, so I have to create a 3 prong DIN like connector and cable. If anyone has such parts (handle and/or cable) I would be interested.
I'm not going to lie... but you are up there with the best in RUclips land! Nice narration, pleasant voice, good quality footage, unbelievable wireless! It is a pity your channel has dried up, for you are able to create huge interesting content! Anyways, subscribed, liked the bell... the whole shebang!
Absolutely incredible video and your workmanship is beyond compare. Loved this video. I think you could surpass or complement many museum curators in recreating the artifact in the present day. Thank you.
Both videos are amazing in the attention to detail as well as the quality of the video itself. I can't wait for the third installment. Since it's been six months, I am hoping that all is well with you and yours and that you will be posting again soon.
I'm trying to send a reply from the link you provided with no luck. I could make the wooden and cardboard boxes but the batteries and soldiering to the correct pins I'd probably end up blowing myself up. Thank you for your reply, Dave.
Very impressive BA-43 reproduction! Top notch work! One thing, though...that grey glue you used to restuff the Micamolds wasn't JB Weld, was it? Unless I'm mistaken, that stuff is conductive.
I’m not aware of any other paper caps in the receiver, but there are a large number of them in the transmitter that will be replaced. I am going to check the electrolytics in the tx as well, and if they are really bad I might double back and do some more replacements in the receiver. As for the LS-7... wow, good catch and thank you! I’ll definitely be correcting that before I run it again.
@@WartimeWorkshop Enjoyed the vid and nice battery btw.I have an arr-7 that has high value caps that are surprisingly mica caps. I dont remember the brand off hand. I could have been looking at an electrolytic in your radio. Those old bathtub caps love to go bad too. Amazing how these old radios fire right up even with leaky caps.
@Cheif Santana Thanks! Yeah, the longevity of this equipment is pretty amazing. I have been avoiding the electrolytics intentionally, to see what I can get away with while remaining "minimally invasive" but I strongly suspect there is room for improvement there. Keep an eye out for a video on correcting the LS-7... I think I may have found the proper driver for it.
@@WartimeWorkshop Yeah came to the comments to mention the other caps too. You definitely want to replace all the caps, unfortunately. If they're not bad, they're probably not going to last long. And a bad cap in certain places can actually ruin some of your tubes, and even a transformer in the worst case. New caps are cheap enough that it's not worth the risk. With all that said, I subscribed to your channel. Looking forward to more videos!
I just mentioned this in another comment, but I'll include it here too! It's worth noting that most of the higher voltage caps in this set are mica and ceramic, which is probably one reason it has held up so well. As I've investigated the transmitter section schematic, I've learned that none of the caps in there are electrolytics; they are in fact oil-filled paper. So the only electrolytics are the four in the receiver (2-C-42 through 2-C-45). My working plan is to go back in and replace those four as an insurance policy, in addition to the planned work in the transmitter.
Thank you, that is a huge compliment! I have only recently discovered MCL and he is fantastic. I may be using some of his techniques in my next video, when I investigate the higher voltage electrolytics in the transmitter section.
Minor correction: I just reviewed the schematic again and the caps I was looking at aren't actually electrolytic, they are oil-filled paper. So we might get to explore an even more esoteric sort of capacitor next time!
@@WartimeWorkshop Nice! I know that they are commonly found in old military equipment and should be reliable but they can leak oil that contains PCB's which aren't good for you. I would check them for visible oil leakage and then with a leakage tester or an LCR meter. If its good, it should read 20+megohms or infinity on your LCR meter. Good luck on the transmitter!
This deserves way more views!
Your repairs on the speaker are very much in keeping with the spirit of early amateur radio hobbyists. You worked with what you had and didn't discard anything. The internet and the ubiquitous brown delivery truck have spoiled us in the twenty-first century. Can't wait to see you tackle the transmitter - FB on the receiver! 73 -
Wow! what a high quality restoration and the receiver worked beautifully.
Dang if your editing after two videos is this good I can only wonder as to what superhuman level of editing you’ll ascend to by your next video. Was nice to see the CRB in some shots.
This was fun. This kind of tech was practically art ( e.g. 12:09 ) and it's gratifying to see there is enough appreciation out there leveraging modern tech to bring it back to life. Great example of why maker culture is so cool, and Wartie ;) did a fantastic job here.
Glad you enjoyed it! I agree this is stuff is art and deserves to be appreciated.
Impressive level of detail!!! So cool!
I really appreciate you taking the time to make the battery and make it look like the real one! You did an amazing job and would love to see more things like that.
Glad you liked it! There should be some similar stuff in the next episode.
Thanks for the support everyone! Since there are so many more experienced people out there who are willing to take the time to teach others, I expect to have corrections to add to most of my videos. I will place these in the description under the "corrections" heading. Please take note of the items listed, especially if you are trying to use my videos for reference in your own build/restoration. When an issue impacts the safety or longevity of the piece, I'll try to include the fix in a future video.
Excellent work and VG video. I have a 654 as well and am about to attack its restoration. Mine works but those Micamolds are are a bear. Luckily, the 654 doesn't have alot. Try a BC-342. They have about 30. I have an alternative to restuffing them. I buy caps from Justradios.com and cast them in hobby resin. JR's are quality and small. Colored black, they come out looking like the real thing. You then just paint in the code dots. Micamolds were also coated in wax about half the time, so you can hide imperfections with wax. I can post some pics on G503. I am Greywulf there. I love your battery. I have been planning on building my own, but you beat me to the punch. I have collected several batteries as examples and most of my military ones have the ink on carboard and then waxed (BA-48, BA-53, BA-2, BA-28, etc). From the bat packs you built, you could easily do a BA-48 for the BC-1306. Again, excellent work.
I found this video very interested, but I wonder why you did not continue making videos, you definitely had a good way with handling and teaching
I just found your channel when looking up information on the GN-58 B that I have inherited. I love the way you present your information :-) Subscribed to your channel!
Wow you really went above and beyond with this one. Excellent work.
The battery pack work was superb :) New subscriber.
Amazing work. I hope your channel takes off. I have a bc348, among others, that I'm not sure what to do with. Maybe someday I'll get it working.
Found your work when looking at field radios on eBay. I think I'm in a new rabbit hole. Nice work on both the restoration and your video. Keep it up!
Well done on making your battery pack.
I also approve of the speaker repair! Very Ham Radio approved. The battery box I would have built would have used 18650 lipo batteries and parallel sized D cells, and I would have built a more permanent AC supply for stationary use. This is just my take on making the radio “user friendly“, not what you should have done (your take was fine!). Lucky to have found a matching speaker, too. I have a BC-348 Q in my shack, un modded with the dynamo, and it may be a bit noisy, but it does fine on the 24volt battery I got used from the local airfield. So it doesn't receive the high HF frequencies, but it works with my 40 and 80 meters QRP CW transmitters. Lots of fun! Good Luck and 73 de W4FJF.
great my frien, greetings from Callao Peru
I am impressed by your attention to detail and dedication to historical accuracy. The most telling statement is your goal of giving the operator the feel of working on this equipment in its original form. Looking forward to the next video. Charlie KM4ZZ
Truly beautiful work on a fantastic specimen 😊 My dad operated one of these in the war.
Incredible work! And a well done video! Subscribed
Congratulations, that was amazing!
Very nice rig. 👍
For the battery and different voltages I probably would have gone with few 18650 cells and then used boost converters for the different voltages required by the radio.
The printing on the battery is on the cardboard, which is waxed over. I re-created a Ray-O-Vac BC-611 battery using the closest color thick cardboard, printed it with a laser printer before cutting. I spent as much time creating the Ray-O-Vac logo as you did. I have an original battery to copy and was able to come up with a very close font. I am very impressed with your attention to detail, especially repacking the Micamolds. I look forward to more videos.
Great to know there are others who care about this stuff, and thank you for your feedback! I debated whether it was under the wax or over; I had it in my head the white spot in the reference at 4:30 was a globule of wax. Based on your response I imagine this must be adhesive or leakage, and not a clump of wax. I'll certainly be accounting for that in rev 2.
Great repairment, learnt a lot! Thank you
Awesome work.
Amazing attention to detail, I love it!
Thank you so much, Carl. Couldn't have done it without your amazing site!
AMAZING JOB, on this restoration!! Earned yourself a new sub!!
Very very well done! On behalf of the West Coast Military Radio Collectors Group...thumbs up :)
If you keep making this quality of content you're gonna blow up. Great videos.
I certainly hope you’re right! Thanks for watching!
un eccellente lavoro complimenti
Wow, I am impressed by your attention to detail! I'm glad to have found your vids through the QST column. W1JCJ
Definitely an artist. I use to rebuild old equipment, but never took the extremes like you have shown here. You should be very proud.
This is a very underrated video. amazing job.
I have been thinking for a while if we can recreative the same ww2 radio with modern technology and observe the size and quality difference. Could you work on something like this?
Battery Case - Connector End. All dry battery connectors are sealed against moisture at manufacture with a sealing strip before the whole thing is wax coated. The missing markings are from when the battery is put in service. To do this the tape has to be torn off the battery end to free the connector in order to connect it. Great work and excellent video many thanks. Greetings from Vienna in Austria. Chris H.
With brittle spkr cones.... maybe try painting the whole of the cone... lightly ... with rubber cement... GREAT job on your battery .... WB0ZLX
Nicely done! I like your work re-stuffing the Micamold paper caps. I would recommend re-stuffing the electrolytic capacitors since they are probably out-of-tolerance as well. One could go a step further and test all of the resistors, but a set of this vintage will work fine with component values that have drifted. Also, it seems that there is a terminal board missing from the back of the speaker. Some solder terminals mounted to one of the magnet screws would work well to provide a more secure place to connect the wires going out of the case. Thanks for the video, and for preserving this great old set!
This is a super cool (and way over my head) video. I have two WWII BC-1000/SCR-300 backpack radios and two BC-659 jeep mounted radios (two WWII jeeps as well). I haven't had much time to dig into them, however, one of the BC-1000s powers up. This is inspiring. Great job!...and the battery reproduction is awesome.
Makes me even more hopeful for restoring a practically dead PRC-77. But mine needs a new Frequency dial Window which I may need to custom make. Other than that she’s almost done, after months of work, she just needs the wires permanently soldered and spliced back together after a little more shortening of a few wires, and two wires needing replacing she should just need to be plugged in and pray the Modules don’t need replacing.
12:59 that is indeed true...thats the way capacitance meters work and i am tired of hearing in other videos people saying that the capacitor is fine it just went up in value...capacitors dont go up in value, they develop leakage and the meter thinks it is seeing a larger capacitor bevause it takes longer to charge...capacitor time constant is also used in advantage of the engineers to design oscillator circuits in radios, tvs and old equipment in general were the frequency is determined by the rate of charge of a capacitor, sometimes a capacitor and inductor etc
You do nice work. I will have to pull my box of mica caps out, always wondered about the ones with high capacity being mica. I know I seen the brand Micamold on some, will have to check them for leakage. They probably all came from military equipment.
Thank you sir! Micamold-branded stuff is definitely present in civilian radios too. Evidently they did make true mica caps in the smaller sizes that one might expect. However a lot of restoration people are just gonna replace almost anything that says Micamold on it; they are known to be pretty bad.
@@WartimeWorkshop Micamold made a lot of true mica capacitors in that format. I recently bought a couple hundred NOS "postage stamp" (some call them "domino") caps & verified all were mica construction in values up to about 0.02 uF. And all passed leakage & value tests with flying colors.
Nicely done. Much appreciate your production values and restoration skills. Would have enjoyed seeing more of the operation of the unit.
QST sent me (!).
First thing I notice is magnificent audio. Planning and attention to detail is also obvious. 73 de k2xt
Outstanding video of an outstanding restoration. Norm KC9RGG
When you get to the point of working on the vibrator supply, use a set of dummy load resistors to adjust the circuit instead of risking the tubes in the set. Proper current values can be figured out using tube specs and/or measurements taken from the battery pack while the receiver is operating. No need to stress your nerves or the set :-) Nice profile in QST! 73 de K4TO, Dave
ps -- I will be 79 in a couple of months. If you think the set's components suffer from old age, you should feel how some of my parts feel! ;-)
I had one of these beat me. I got the Rx and TX to work separately powered with my hombrew power supply. But together - Boom. Smoked PSU. I passed the unit on.
This is amazing!
Very cool project and well made video. Looking forward to more like this!
I am really enjoying the series. You got another sub here! Also, fun to see the EEVBlog BM235 multimeter! I wonder if David has seen your website yet? Also, if there is another fellow Aussie restoring vintage radios that may be of interest to some, David Tipton. At this point you may think all Aussies' are called Dave, but we have a few Steve's, Dazza's and Bruce's. ;)
Thank you! Yes, I am a fan of this meter. I really want to try the 121GW at some point.
What a labor of love.
Fascinated with your font reproduction work! Are these available public domain (as .ttf files)?
I have a number of "boat anchors" that I will never be able to restore and must part with. CV-920A (x2), an AM-2477B/URR, a R390A, and numerous mil-surplus RF test gear.
Perhaps you or someone out there may have an interest?
2 amazing videos, I really enjoyed them ! Are you gonna make more videos ?
👏👏👏👏👏+ 👍 Super ! Best 73 & Gl !
Awesome ,, I just subscribed. I love old radios of any kind . Especially old and modern military radios . I’m about to take my general class soon as I can get an exam site figured out .
73’s to you , I’ll be checking out your channel
Great Video, I could not spend the time though putting old casing back on caps, maybe an can cap that was showing on top, Can't hide new resistors, or new wire. On the lighter side I've seen on old 20's radios JFET'S put under tubes and yellow led's to simulate filaments. After that I took an old SW took the tubes out and put JFET's used the Filament supply to make a regulated supply, used a amp board for audio. Worked like before but cooler running, and could run off 12 volts then to.
I loved watching you create the battery box! I probably would have done things a bit differently, but that is part of the nature of mankind, we are all different in some way or another. I would like to build a battery source for my Garod V Neutrodyne TRF receiver. It is a 1927 or so era radio and I hope to have a working one when I can get all the needed parts and bits. You can see what it looks like here:
radioatticarchives.com/radio.htm?radio=5765
I have no problem with throwing batteries into a box somewhat like the one you made, where my difficulty is, is in the charging circuit. I need something that I could leave the batteries connected and they would fully charge, then switch to trickle charge when needed. The voltages that I think I need are 4.5 volts, 6 volts, 22.5 to 45 Volts, and 90 Volts.
I have never seen one of those "Mica-Mold" capacitors split in half like that. Thanks for sharing it with us. The interesting thing is that you could place any type of capacitor inside, even an actual Mica if it would fit, and use it. You gave me a lot of ideas with this video...again, thanks!
There are a couple of videos that I think you would enjoy watching. Let me know what you think. They are:
ruclips.net/video/BnR_DLd1PDI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/67M7fsbLUIU/видео.html
You can see a listing of all the videos made by Paul at this URL: ruclips.net/user/MrCarlsonsLabvideos
I hope to see more videos on here from you. You make excellent videos! I love the quality of them especially. Everything is top-notch...audio, video, concept, format, procedure, etc.
73,
WB4RHA
great restoration job !! 73 ka2kug
It might have been a mistake not to have included thermal sensors on the batteries.
I was thinking about making a version with a whole BMS but for now I’m just unhooking them when not in use. Will definitely need to add some protections in if I have to run it all day for an event or something.
Have you tried using laser printer toner mixed with wax as screen printing ink\paint?
I have not tried that; I was thinking about using encaustic paint, which would be similar. However it seems that I was wrong about the ink being on top; the "blob" in the image is something underneath both the wax and the printed label. I'll be correcting this on the next one I make.
Great production quality, great project. You have an instant subscribe from me!
Thank for your job and this good vidéo. I love this, you are exemplary. Francis from France 😍👍
Can you restore the WWII Iconoscope Camera from RCA?
I would absolutely love to, if I could track one down. There is a single Iconoscope tube for sale on ebay right now, but I would want to start from something a bit more complete.
Wonderful job.
As for the battery, I would prefer to use 10-11 size 6LR61 (9v) batteries to get a high voltage supply for the vacuum tubes.
Thanks for sharing this. In 1968 I found the manual of this radio in the store of a radio shop. These units were not available in my country at all. Therefore I am still wondering how this secured document could be available. At that time I built tube radios and repaired all kinds of radios and tv's.
Henrik OH2BLO
I recently bought at a flea market a WWII G-3 hand crank generator that went with the TRC-7 radio. Working on restoring it. The generator works just great. It just needed a little TLC - bending back into shape the brace which attached the seat to the tripod and some touch up paint. It was also missing one of the handles, so I'm making new handles. Also had no cable, so I have to create a 3 prong DIN like connector and cable. If anyone has such parts (handle and/or cable) I would be interested.
I'm not going to lie... but you are up there with the best in RUclips land! Nice narration, pleasant voice, good quality footage, unbelievable wireless!
It is a pity your channel has dried up, for you are able to create huge interesting content!
Anyways, subscribed, liked the bell... the whole shebang!
Thanks, fantastic work.👍🇬🇧
Beautiful work, and great production value! Thanks so much!
Brilliant work !
Amazing work, thanks for sharing with us.
That is so cool!
Thank you for this video! I really enjoyed watching it. 73!
This is awesome and I'm sharing with friends
Thank you!
Fantastic vid......more...
This is awesome
Sounded great! Just like a ww2 era film! Brilliant work!
don't stop making the vidios---I always lean new Things TNX Wb9jia
Excellent video, your attention to detail and accuracy is a credit to you 👍
Absolutely incredible video and your workmanship is beyond compare. Loved this video. I think you could surpass or complement many museum curators in recreating the artifact in the present day. Thank you.
With your care at authenticity, you could have a career in an aviation, auto, military or technology museum.
Wow.
Great presentation, awesome video thanks for sharing.
sencillamente exelente,amigo,soy amante de los trastos de guerra...algo tenemos en el shack...cx3et...
Recap all of them!!!
Both videos are amazing in the attention to detail as well as the quality of the video itself. I can't wait for the third installment. Since it's been six months, I am hoping that all is well with you and yours and that you will be posting again soon.
Everything is fine! Just been extremely busy with work and pandemic life. Working hard to get a new video out as soon as possible!
Very excited to see your next installment!
Hello, I have this radio but no means to make your battery power supply. Do you make these for customers? Thank you.
I might be able to help you out depending on your needs. Send me a business inquiry from ruclips.net/user/WartimeWorkshopabout
I'm trying to send a reply from the link you provided with no luck. I could make the wooden and cardboard boxes but the batteries and soldiering to the correct pins I'd probably end up blowing myself up. Thank you for your reply, Dave.
Hi Dave, sorry for the delayed response. Unfortunately I can’t sell the handmade packs. I could only help you with the reproduction components.
Amazing attention to detail there sir!
Very nice reproduction battery. Very nice art work.
Very impressive BA-43 reproduction! Top notch work! One thing, though...that grey glue you used to restuff the Micamolds wasn't JB Weld, was it? Unless I'm mistaken, that stuff is conductive.
i really enjoy this saga, love it !
Very nice videos! Suscribed!!
the wiring is called point to point
Great video, very nice job.
You should tackle a BC-348
Hey man, I was wondering if you can listen to FM radio stations with the restored BC-654
No, it is exclusively AM voice and CW.
I'm now desperate for Part 3!
It is still happening, just severely delayed! And more projects to come. Targeting end of June for episode 3 release.
@@WartimeWorkshop Just checked back in to see if there was anything new, wonderful to see you're still working on content. I'm looking forward to PT3!
I am PROUD to be your 800th sub
Incredible! Great job!!
Man, such awesome work!
Did you test all the other paper caps? The ls-7 has a transformer built in and the driver is not correct. Looks like a 50s or 60s zenith.
I’m not aware of any other paper caps in the receiver, but there are a large number of them in the transmitter that will be replaced. I am going to check the electrolytics in the tx as well, and if they are really bad I might double back and do some more replacements in the receiver. As for the LS-7... wow, good catch and thank you! I’ll definitely be correcting that before I run it again.
@@WartimeWorkshop Enjoyed the vid and nice battery btw.I have an arr-7 that has high value caps that are surprisingly mica caps. I dont remember the brand off hand. I could have been looking at an electrolytic in your radio. Those old bathtub caps love to go bad too. Amazing how these old radios fire right up even with leaky caps.
@Cheif Santana Thanks! Yeah, the longevity of this equipment is pretty amazing. I have been avoiding the electrolytics intentionally, to see what I can get away with while remaining "minimally invasive" but I strongly suspect there is room for improvement there. Keep an eye out for a video on correcting the LS-7... I think I may have found the proper driver for it.
@@WartimeWorkshop Yeah came to the comments to mention the other caps too. You definitely want to replace all the caps, unfortunately. If they're not bad, they're probably not going to last long. And a bad cap in certain places can actually ruin some of your tubes, and even a transformer in the worst case. New caps are cheap enough that it's not worth the risk. With all that said, I subscribed to your channel. Looking forward to more videos!
I just mentioned this in another comment, but I'll include it here too! It's worth noting that most of the higher voltage caps in this set are mica and ceramic, which is probably one reason it has held up so well. As I've investigated the transmitter section schematic, I've learned that none of the caps in there are electrolytics; they are in fact oil-filled paper. So the only electrolytics are the four in the receiver (2-C-42 through 2-C-45). My working plan is to go back in and replace those four as an insurance policy, in addition to the planned work in the transmitter.
Just subbed. You are going be be competing with Mr. Carlsons Lab very soon with the high quality videos you are putting out:)
Thank you, that is a huge compliment! I have only recently discovered MCL and he is fantastic. I may be using some of his techniques in my next video, when I investigate the higher voltage electrolytics in the transmitter section.
@@WartimeWorkshop Awesome! Cant wait to see it!
Minor correction: I just reviewed the schematic again and the caps I was looking at aren't actually electrolytic, they are oil-filled paper. So we might get to explore an even more esoteric sort of capacitor next time!
@@WartimeWorkshop Nice! I know that they are commonly found in old military equipment and should be reliable but they can leak oil that contains PCB's which aren't good for you. I would check them for visible oil leakage and then with a leakage tester or an LCR meter. If its good, it should read 20+megohms or infinity on your LCR meter. Good luck on the transmitter!