Let’s me know what you think of my first PCB keyboard, I’m personally super happy with how it turned out! If you want to build one yourself, you can pick up the PCB and case from my website: scottokeebs.com
I'm curious, would it be possible / make sense to design a PCB like yours where the diodes are on top and the switches are soldered without hot swap sockets? The idea is to build the thinest board possible, so to eliminate anything on the underside of the PCB... Great video, by the way. Really admire your work. Been a subscriber since I started my keyboard journey.
This is probably a very stupid question but why did you need the sockets, don’t the switches have pins that can connect to a pcb anyway. The switches I own are pretty old but they have two sets of pins one for +- input and one for +- led. Is the diode just to regulate the electricity. Sorry all I know about this stuff comes from moding arcade sticks and I would really love to use something like your set up for a stick given I just need a raspberry pi instead of having to pull the board from a preexisting controller which is a bit of a mess. Thanks for your patience I look forward to your pcb series. If you already explained why you used your components please feel free to link the video in question. Thanks again
@@dorjedriftwood2731 Not for this PCB, I designed it for sockets. Reason being that Choc switches are expensive so soldering them permanently is best avoided.
@@dorjedriftwood2731 the diode is to stop ghosting. in a matrix of 4 switches (2 on one wire and two on another), if three of them are pressed, it will think a 4th one is pressed. the diodes stop that. depending on the expected use of the keyboard, you could entirely get away without diodes. also, just in general, the sockets mean you can change the switches whenever you want with little effort. or if one fails, it's gonna be more of a chore to de-solder it rather than just replace it real quick.
That PCB design series couldn't come at a better time! I've already been looking up some tutorials and having it all in one complete package will make the whole process a lot easier.
Loved your content since i first watched your Corne build! Straight to the point, clean and concise narrative with great cinematography. Keep it up man you deserve waaaaay more subs.
I have found solder paste to be much easier to use, especially for surface mount components. The best thing is, when hot air or IR heat is applied, the components align by capilar and surface tention, so placing components is reduced to sticking them to the pads covered with paste. Paste can be applied by hand with different size sticks and needles from a pool of paste.
Found out about handwired boards just this week and love the way your present your info. A couple of custom boards will be a fall project for my son and I when he is back to school and has access to all the fun toys to design, print and cut the cases.
Nice job! I recently just made my first PCB as well, the qwail56, also based on a pico. The one thing I regret is using SOD-123 single package diodes. With dual or more packages, like SOT-23, SOT-323 or even SOT-363 I would have to solder so many less diodes, would have saved me so much time
Thank you for this! I am very new to custom keyboards, more so 40% and orthogonal. But this one appeals to me, and I think will be the first I will build. However, I would like to know if there is any guide onto how to make it wireless. Or how different the config file would have to be if I decide to go with the controller and battery that you showed in the wireless Corne video. I am looking at forums/Reddit and discord, but since I know very little I don't even know what to look for. Any direction on where to search for this info would be appreciated!
Very very cool! I was looking into making my own boards and you just made this not look so difficult. I saw the board and i was like , that's it . The first itme I saw a ssf board and got excited. i can't wait. Though the qmk fm mifght be trying for me, but I hope you cover it with detail in your future videos. keep up the good work.
Not sure if you saw but I have a video now covering the PCB design process: ruclips.net/video/8WXpGTIbxlQ/видео.html I plan on having a dedicated video for the firmware side soon :)
Wow, looking at that layout my mind went straight to stenography! Although it might be slightly too condensed for that, unless you go asymmetric and just have a single column of star keys on the left hand side
I am so loving this design. After the pain of hand wiring I was thinking I might have a go but the surface mounting still scares me. Went to the github to see if i could get the pcb schematics and alter to a through hole but alas, none. I totally understand why you haven't shared the file.
Definitely don’t be afraid of the surface mounting, it’s overall easier than handwiring. If you have flux and take your time, you shouldn’t have any issues… just don’t use too high of heat or apply it too long. I don’t plan on releasing the PCB boards open sourced, that’s what my handwired boards are for. That said, the surface mount sockets the kit comes with are really easy to do. The position is held in place by the PCB so you don’t need to worry about it moving while you solder it.
Hey I have recently built a keyboard with a hotswap pcb Tofu60 v2 and the caps lock light is reversed, lit when lowercase and not lit when uppercase, do you know how I could fix this?
It is amazing, I just wish that the community focuses hard on the wireless builds for these keyboards. This will take the whole community to the next level.
@@jacquesfaba55 You will always have the option to turn it off and use the cable. But when you don't have wireless, you just don't have it's convenience forever.
There is a microcontroller called Muon Pico, that is 100% compatible with Pi Poco but it is base on an NRF BLE chip and has a battery management on it. It would be an easy upgrade to make it wireless
@@joe_scotto Adafruit nRF52840 Feather might be an even better option, but not a pi drop in... slightly cheaper though, and doesn't have an insane $50 shipping fee. Smaller size leaves space for a small battery on the pcb...
The Scotto34 (PCB Edition) for about 1.5 months now, before that it was a mix of the handwired Scotto34 and the ScottoErgo. Soon I’ll be switching again as I have a new handwired choc ergo board in development.
Awesome, thanks for answering! Do you prefer those unibody splits over split keyboards like e.g. Corne? I've been pondering on what I prefer myself because I'm constantly switching back and forth between a corne-ish zen, a sofle and a wooting 60 he (for gaming, but even type on it for work sometimes) and I'm not particularly set in stone on any of them. A unibody does seem compelling for the simplicity, and looks hot!
Not impractical at all, actually they’re more efficient. I just hold a thumb button and numbers are right on home row. I have a video that explains how it works: ruclips.net/video/EiHD9T2d6YU/видео.html
Let’s me know what you think of my first PCB keyboard, I’m personally super happy with how it turned out! If you want to build one yourself, you can pick up the PCB and case from my website: scottokeebs.com
I'm curious, would it be possible / make sense to design a PCB like yours where the diodes are on top and the switches are soldered without hot swap sockets? The idea is to build the thinest board possible, so to eliminate anything on the underside of the PCB...
Great video, by the way. Really admire your work. Been a subscriber since I started my keyboard journey.
@whereIsJerome Yeah, you could… with Choc switches you can hide the diode within the upper part of the switch.
This is probably a very stupid question but why did you need the sockets, don’t the switches have pins that can connect to a pcb anyway.
The switches I own are pretty old but they have two sets of pins one for +- input and one for +- led.
Is the diode just to regulate the electricity.
Sorry all I know about this stuff comes from moding arcade sticks and I would really love to use something like your set up for a stick given I just need a raspberry pi instead of having to pull the board from a preexisting controller which is a bit of a mess.
Thanks for your patience I look forward to your pcb series. If you already explained why you used your components please feel free to link the video in question.
Thanks again
@@dorjedriftwood2731 Not for this PCB, I designed it for sockets. Reason being that Choc switches are expensive so soldering them permanently is best avoided.
@@dorjedriftwood2731 the diode is to stop ghosting. in a matrix of 4 switches (2 on one wire and two on another), if three of them are pressed, it will think a 4th one is pressed. the diodes stop that. depending on the expected use of the keyboard, you could entirely get away without diodes.
also, just in general, the sockets mean you can change the switches whenever you want with little effort.
or if one fails, it's gonna be more of a chore to de-solder it rather than just replace it real quick.
That PCB design series couldn't come at a better time! I've already been looking up some tutorials and having it all in one complete package will make the whole process a lot easier.
Loved your content since i first watched your Corne build! Straight to the point, clean and concise narrative with great cinematography. Keep it up man you deserve waaaaay more subs.
Looks awesome! I can't wait to build it. I am looking forward to the new series.
I’m excited for you to build it too and would love to see it when done :)
I have found solder paste to be much easier to use, especially for surface mount components.
The best thing is, when hot air or IR heat is applied, the components align by capilar and surface tention, so placing components is reduced to sticking them to the pads covered with paste.
Paste can be applied by hand with different size sticks and needles from a pool of paste.
I am desperate to make a keyboard myself. I am really excited for your PCB series.
Found out about handwired boards just this week and love the way your present your info. A couple of custom boards will be a fall project for my son and I when he is back to school and has access to all the fun toys to design, print and cut the cases.
I love hearing stuff like this! You should definitely check out my Discord server for help along the way as you two build it: discord.gg/vN6X3z8eyv
Looking forward to this series.
Impressive, and you're using Colemak layout. Great!
This is a very solid diy board, I dig it. Really looking forward to the pcb design series. Cheers! 💀🖤🤖
this series really helped me get started making a specialty keyboard. Thanks.
Nice job! I recently just made my first PCB as well, the qwail56, also based on a pico. The one thing I regret is using SOD-123 single package diodes. With dual or more packages, like SOT-23, SOT-323 or even SOT-363 I would have to solder so many less diodes, would have saved me so much time
Thank you for this! I am very new to custom keyboards, more so 40% and orthogonal. But this one appeals to me, and I think will be the first I will build. However, I would like to know if there is any guide onto how to make it wireless. Or how different the config file would have to be if I decide to go with the controller and battery that you showed in the wireless Corne video.
I am looking at forums/Reddit and discord, but since I know very little I don't even know what to look for. Any direction on where to search for this info would be appreciated!
Very very cool! I was looking into making my own boards and you just made this not look so difficult. I saw the board and i was like , that's it . The first itme I saw a ssf board and got excited. i can't wait. Though the qmk fm mifght be trying for me, but I hope you cover it with detail in your future videos. keep up the good work.
Not sure if you saw but I have a video now covering the PCB design process: ruclips.net/video/8WXpGTIbxlQ/видео.html
I plan on having a dedicated video for the firmware side soon :)
Wow, looking at that layout my mind went straight to stenography! Although it might be slightly too condensed for that, unless you go asymmetric and just have a single column of star keys on the left hand side
do you need other parts (decoupling capacitors, crystal, etc.) since i've seen on other guides you needed it
I am so loving this design.
After the pain of hand wiring I was thinking I might have a go but the surface mounting still scares me. Went to the github to see if i could get the pcb schematics and alter to a through hole but alas, none.
I totally understand why you haven't shared the file.
Definitely don’t be afraid of the surface mounting, it’s overall easier than handwiring. If you have flux and take your time, you shouldn’t have any issues… just don’t use too high of heat or apply it too long.
I don’t plan on releasing the PCB boards open sourced, that’s what my handwired boards are for. That said, the surface mount sockets the kit comes with are really easy to do. The position is held in place by the PCB so you don’t need to worry about it moving while you solder it.
Is there such a way to build a 750% keyboard with a pcb and a little lcd display?
Great work. Solenoid when?
Oh it’s on the list for a build one day.
Hey I have recently built a keyboard with a hotswap pcb Tofu60 v2 and the caps lock light is reversed, lit when lowercase and not lit when uppercase, do you know how I could fix this?
Great content and designs, thanks for everything!
Spectacular job, man...
Where can I find those white keycaps?
I see you've got the 3d print files for the handwired keyboard on github, any plans to put the pcb edition case on github?
I only release my handwired files for free. I don’t have plans to release any files for my PCB boards.
@@joe_scotto awesome, thanks! I'll see if I can make adjustments to the hardwired prints to get them to fit
It is amazing, I just wish that the community focuses hard on the wireless builds for these keyboards. This will take the whole community to the next level.
Wireless has latency and can be hijacked
@@jacquesfaba55 You will always have the option to turn it off and use the cable. But when you don't have wireless, you just don't have it's convenience forever.
So clean
There is a microcontroller called Muon Pico, that is 100% compatible with Pi Poco but it is base on an NRF BLE chip and has a battery management on it. It would be an easy upgrade to make it wireless
That’s pretty neat, I’m gonna look into it.
@@joe_scotto Adafruit nRF52840 Feather might be an even better option, but not a pi drop in... slightly cheaper though, and doesn't have an insane $50 shipping fee. Smaller size leaves space for a small battery on the pcb...
great work, so clean
where does everyone get their choc switches, ali express and thats it?
I personally get mine from typeractive.xyz but the price is pretty consistent on most shops.
I just realized you are left handed as well? I assume, since space is on the left side.
Great stuff 👍 Subbed!
Wonder what you've been rocking as a daily driver
The Scotto34 (PCB Edition) for about 1.5 months now, before that it was a mix of the handwired Scotto34 and the ScottoErgo. Soon I’ll be switching again as I have a new handwired choc ergo board in development.
Awesome, thanks for answering! Do you prefer those unibody splits over split keyboards like e.g. Corne? I've been pondering on what I prefer myself because I'm constantly switching back and forth between a corne-ish zen, a sofle and a wooting 60 he (for gaming, but even type on it for work sometimes) and I'm not particularly set in stone on any of them. A unibody does seem compelling for the simplicity, and looks hot!
I like unibodies more because it’s just one thing to deal with. I still enjoy splits but it’s nice being able to only have one item to move around.
Those joints tho. 😄
Very clean but impractical keyboards, god forbid you have to type a number!
Not impractical at all, actually they’re more efficient. I just hold a thumb button and numbers are right on home row.
I have a video that explains how it works:
ruclips.net/video/EiHD9T2d6YU/видео.html
nice