You must not worry about being a bore Mike. This is the Internet, where People watch just about anything, but you repair Videos (And lovely Anecdotess) are quite intereting, and always helpful. Thank You for you excellent Content! Your advice has helped me to make my 2003 Disco 2 better! Cheers Mike, - Herr Uhren.
Hi! You are right about the wires. With the electrical system in every car you have to be careful. Terminals - couplings are always weak. They loosen on their own after a few years.
After fiddling about with my dashboard, I've had exactly this issue. Glow plugs work I can hear the Relay turn off but no warning light. I've not checked mine yet but I suspect the same/similar issue. It's good to know that there's a sensible explanation even if I do have to get in that bloody dash again. This is such an essential canon of Defender knowledge. Keep it up Mike!
many wires harnesses on newer thaN 2000 cars used/use copper mixed with cheap metall that is springy "like" steel for springs they go black fast or brake inside insulation. i have "seen" and replaced on some cars.
In defense of Land Rover, all vehicles over 30 years old will have problems with electrics. If you add in salted roads, freezing temperatures bouncing around on unmade tracks I think they do OK.
@@coyote5735 You are correct, excessive heat will cause hardening of wiring over a period of time. The cold will also harden them, only instantly. With the cold the effect is temporary where as with heat it is permanent.
The rigid or fragile old wiring problem is possibly not the preserve of Land Rovers. If I remember correctly, the IC is a quad op-amp. I started drawing a circuit diagram for one for interest sake; must get back to it. Check with your multimeter if the relay turns off when the engine is cranked. It's handy to have a DC clamp meter, so it's quick to check if the glow plugs are working. It's quick to find a faulty glow plug by elimination. Typical initial current is about 50 Amps. Have a great new year. Cheers, Ian
If you put a blow torch on copper it will eventually get a black finish, you are right it's a form of Copper oxidation(ii) but it normally occurs between 300-800 deg C. Maybe there is something in the PVC sheathing that accelerates the process, a bit like a catalyst. There again could it be the wire is pulling too much current or has done in the past due to a fault?
Hello Mike! I landed on your video because I noticed that my glow plug relay remains on after the engine has started. I can hear it clicking (switching off) 3 or 4 seconds after the engine is on. We are getting into winter so weather is getting cold (around 3 or 4 Cº). So the sequence is: 1) Power on 2) Warning light comes on 3) Start engine right after warning light goes off 4) Engine starts normally, warning lights remains off and a couple seconds later i hear the relay switching off. I heard you said it is a pre and post ignition relay but still wondering if it is normal. I never miss your videos! Cheers from Patagonia!
I wonder if seal reconditioning fluid (oil additive) would soften the wiring insulation and prevent this sort of problem and cracking. It might be possible to spray it with a small weedkiller type bottle in places where you can't get in with a soaked cloth or a brush.
Great video. I came across this as I have a problem with a Honda CRV ..I have no idea what is going on. On cold days the glow plug ready will not come on, it used to take about thirty turns of the key and it would come on . However over time it has got worse and now won't come on , early mornings. Yet later in the day when the days tempreature heats up. the light will come on and it starts straight away.!!! I don't know if this would be connected but the obd reader won't connect so I can't plug in to see if there are any codes. If you can help it would be much apreciated. It doesn't seem to be glow plug relay as it comes on and I have a spare and it made no difference. I was thinking could it be a sensor ?
Mike, old video, I know, so I hope you catch my question: does the glow plug relay only function below a certain ambient temperature? Mine worked great all (Minnesota) winter but I get no dash light now that it’s summer. Before I start taking apart the dash or pulling the relay, I’m wondering if it’s just working as it should. Thanks in advance, and for all your great videos!
You think 40 odd years off wiring try 2 year old trucks nightmare all wires are like telephone wires now they will brake in the plastic without any signs
Good question - they are pretty much the same, although getting old now- as far as I know cylinder heads are no longer available for the 200 Tdi = plenty of parts for the 300Tdi
I want to use a couple of glow plugs on an old dynostart belt start engine to help starting. would you know if I need anything more than a fuse,switch, relay and glowplugs?
@@BritannicaRestorations never used it but have been pondering this for a while! I guess damp from the air is the main problem under the dash and a dab of conductive grease should seal the surface while not hindering conductivity. I was also thinking in wet areas, like back lights etc if non conductive grease would help... must get some and try it out. Interesting what you say about black wire,always wondered what caused it - such a pig to solder for repairs
My warning light cluster is the same as your one (1995) and I've noticed, but only at night time when it's completely dark, the handbrake warning light has an ever so subtle glow, as if it were always on but is super dim. Granted the handbrake light isn't working with the brake, what would you reckon it is, bad earth??
The way your problem is not just with Land Rover as I have a 43-year-old Kawasaki where the copper is black all the way through the wiring harness just the same
sorry your wrong it's not a timer at all , the ecu sets the on off time of the glow plug not the relay , the circuit in the relay only checks impedance of the glow plugs to send fault code to the ecu when the glow plug fails.
You must not worry about being a bore Mike. This is the Internet, where People watch just about anything, but you repair Videos (And lovely Anecdotess) are quite intereting, and always helpful. Thank You for you excellent Content! Your advice has helped me to make my 2003 Disco 2 better! Cheers Mike,
- Herr Uhren.
Thank you!
I hope to have more info next year!
Mike
Hi! You are right about the wires. With the electrical system in every car you have to be careful. Terminals - couplings are always weak. They loosen on their own after a few years.
Love the high tech approach to cooling the relay :D
After fiddling about with my dashboard, I've had exactly this issue. Glow plugs work I can hear the Relay turn off but no warning light. I've not checked mine yet but I suspect the same/similar issue. It's good to know that there's a sensible explanation even if I do have to get in that bloody dash again. This is such an essential canon of Defender knowledge. Keep it up Mike!
many wires harnesses on newer thaN 2000 cars used/use copper mixed with cheap metall that is springy "like" steel for springs they go black fast or brake inside insulation. i have "seen" and replaced on some cars.
You may think you are boring but since I hit my 30s and bought a Landy this is more exciting than sex 😂
Seems that is all we have left - good thing you didn't get a Jeep!
In defense of Land Rover, all vehicles over 30 years old will have problems with electrics.
If you add in salted roads, freezing temperatures bouncing around on unmade tracks I think they do OK.
Heat accelerates hardening of wiring insulation.
@@coyote5735 You are correct, excessive heat will cause hardening of wiring over a period of time. The cold will also harden them, only instantly. With the cold the effect is temporary where as with heat it is permanent.
Landrover in there wisdom with the freelander 2 tdi if you see the glow plug warning light there's a problem , no light no problem!
First thing is to run an independent earth strap. Don't rely on chassis grounding.
The rigid or fragile old wiring problem is possibly not the preserve of Land Rovers.
If I remember correctly, the IC is a quad op-amp. I started drawing a circuit diagram for one for interest sake; must get back to it.
Check with your multimeter if the relay turns off when the engine is cranked.
It's handy to have a DC clamp meter, so it's quick to check if the glow plugs are working. It's quick to find a faulty glow plug by elimination. Typical initial current is about 50 Amps.
Have a great new year.
Cheers, Ian
Yes, voltage doesn't indicate that the glow plug is working, an amperage reading is what you need.
I know, but it shows the unit was working to trace the issue with the lamp - the warning lamp grounds through the relay
If you put a blow torch on copper it will eventually get a black finish, you are right it's a form of Copper oxidation(ii) but it normally occurs between 300-800 deg C. Maybe there is something in the PVC sheathing that accelerates the process, a bit like a catalyst. There again could it be the wire is pulling too much current or has done in the past due to a fault?
If you scan through the comment on the black wires, then I am convinced it is the old formula of PVC used back then
Hello Mike! I landed on your video because I noticed that my glow plug relay remains on after the engine has started. I can hear it clicking (switching off) 3 or 4 seconds after the engine is on. We are getting into winter so weather is getting cold (around 3 or 4 Cº).
So the sequence is:
1) Power on
2) Warning light comes on
3) Start engine right after warning light goes off
4) Engine starts normally, warning lights remains off and a couple seconds later i hear the relay switching off.
I heard you said it is a pre and post ignition relay but still wondering if it is normal.
I never miss your videos!
Cheers from Patagonia!
Normal and working fine - that is the post heater switching off to reduce emissions
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike!
I wonder if seal reconditioning fluid (oil additive) would soften the wiring insulation and prevent this sort of problem and cracking. It might be possible to spray it with a small weedkiller type bottle in places where you can't get in with a soaked cloth or a brush.
Problem is a lot of the wire is taped
Good point!
Great video. I came across this as I have a problem with a Honda CRV ..I have no idea what is going on. On cold days the glow plug ready will not come on, it used to take about thirty turns of the key and it would come on . However over time it has got worse and now won't come on , early mornings. Yet later in the day when the days tempreature heats up. the light will come on and it starts straight away.!!! I don't know if this would be connected but the obd reader won't connect so I can't plug in to see if there are any codes. If you can help it would be much apreciated. It doesn't seem to be glow plug relay as it comes on and I have a spare and it made no difference. I was thinking could it be a sensor ?
Mike, old video, I know, so I hope you catch my question: does the glow plug relay only function below a certain ambient temperature? Mine worked great all (Minnesota) winter but I get no dash light now that it’s summer. Before I start taking apart the dash or pulling the relay, I’m wondering if it’s just working as it should. Thanks in advance, and for all your great videos!
the timer adjusts for the cold I believe, but still forks for post heating once the engine is running with no light on
You think 40 odd years off wiring try 2 year old trucks nightmare all wires are like telephone wires now they will brake in the plastic without any signs
Mike, what engine is more reliable the 300tdi or the 200 tdi
Good question - they are pretty much the same, although getting old now- as far as I know cylinder heads are no longer available for the 200 Tdi = plenty of parts for the 300Tdi
I want to use a couple of glow plugs on an old dynostart belt start engine to help starting. would you know if I need anything more than a fuse,switch, relay and glowplugs?
Think you have it covered there
Got a td5 which is running but only after quick starting ...help me guys🙏🙏🙏
I wonder if electrically conductive grease would help on those connectors?
Possibly - any recommendation?
Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations never used it but have been pondering this for a while! I guess damp from the air is the main problem under the dash and a dab of conductive grease should seal the surface while not hindering conductivity. I was also thinking in wet areas, like back lights etc if non conductive grease would help... must get some and try it out. Interesting what you say about black wire,always wondered what caused it - such a pig to solder for repairs
My warning light cluster is the same as your one (1995) and I've noticed, but only at night time when it's completely dark, the handbrake warning light has an ever so subtle glow, as if it were always on but is super dim. Granted the handbrake light isn't working with the brake, what would you reckon it is, bad earth??
Sounds like it - doubt it is the switch as it is plastic -maybe the wire is rubbing on the body somewhere?
The way your problem is not just with Land Rover as I have a 43-year-old Kawasaki where the copper is black all the way through the wiring harness just the same
Brian - I am convinced it is the PVC used back then causing the problem
Yes I agree there must be some sort of chemical in PVC that reacts with the copper
sorry your wrong it's not a timer at all , the ecu sets the on off time of the glow plug not the relay , the circuit in the relay only checks impedance of the glow plugs to send fault code to the ecu when the glow plug fails.
There is no ECU on the Land Rover 200/300Tdi except the EGR on the later 300Tdi